2007 KIA CARNIVAL brake light

Low&Reverse brakeLRHold LR annulus gear and OD carrier
Second brake 2NDHold reverse sun gear
One way clutch OWCRestrict the rotating direction of low & reverse annulus gear
Operating elements
UD/COD/CREV/C 2ND/B LR/BOWC
P ●
R ●●
N ●
D1 ● ●○
D2 ● ●
D3 ●●
D4 ●●
1) ○ : OWC is operated when shifts from 1st gear to 2nd gear.
2) L&R brake is released in 1st gear when the vehicle speed is more than 5KPH approximately.
Torque converter and shaft
The torque converter consists of an impeller(pump), turbine and stator assembly in a single unit. The pump is
connected to the engine crankshaft and turns as the engine turns. This drawing force is transmitted to the turbine
through the oil which is recycled by the stator.
The transmission has two parallel shafts ; the input shaft and the output shaft. Both shafts are in line with the engine
crankshaft. The input shaft includes the overdrive clutch, reverse clutch, underdrive clutch, one way clutch, 2ND brake,
low&reverse brake, overdrive planetary carrier, output planetary carrier and transfer drive gear. The output shaft
includes the transfer driven gear.
CLUTCHES
The gear changing mechanism utilizes three multi- disc clutches. The retainers of these clutches are fabricated from
high- precision sheet metal for lightness and ease of production. Also, more responsive gearshifts at high engine
speeds are achieved by a pressure- balanced piston mechanism that cancels out centrifugal hydraulic pressure. This
mechanism replaces the conventional ball check valve.
UNDERDRIVE CLUTCH
The underdrive clutch operates in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears and transmits driving force from the input shaft to the
underdrive sun gear(A).
The components comprising the under clutch are as illustrated below.

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
SERVICE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
Automatic transaxle fluid
INSPECTION 1. Drive the vehicle until the fluid reaches normal operating temperature [70~80°C].
2. Place the vehicle on a level surface.
3. Move the selector lever through all gear positions. This will fill the torque converter and the hudraulic system with
fluid and move the selector lever to the "N" (Neutral) or "P"(Park) position.
4. Before removing the oil level gauge, wipe all contaminants from around the oil level gauge. Then take out the oil
level gauge and check the condition of the fluid.
If the fluid smells as if it is burning, it means that the fluid has been contaminated by fine particles from the
bushes and friction materials, a transaxle overhaul may be necessary.
5. Check that the fluid level is at the HOT mark on the oil level gauge. If the fluid level is low, add automatic transaxle
fluid until the level reaches the "HOT" mark.
Auto transaxle fluid:
DIAMOND ATF SP - III, SK ATF SP - III
Quantity : 8.5ℓ (9.0 US qt, 7.5 lmp.qt)
Low fluid level can cause a variety of a abnormal conditions because it allows the pump to take in air along
with fluid. Air trapped in the hydraulic system forms bubbles, which are compressable. Therefore, pressures
will be erratic, causing delayed shifting ,slipping clutches and brakes, etc. Improper filling can also raise fluid
level too high. When the transaxle has too much fluid, gears churn up foam and acuise the same conditions
which occur with low fluid level, resulting in accelerated deterioration of automatic transaxle fluid. In either
case, air bubbles can cause overheating, and fluid oxidation, which can interfere with normal valve, clutch, and
brake operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the transaxle vent where it may be mistaken
for a leak.
6. Insert the oil level gauge(A) securely.
When new, automatic transmission fluid should be red. The red dye is added so the assembly plant can
identify it as transmission fluid and distinguish it from engine oil or antifreeze. The red dye, which is not an
indicator of fluid quality, is not permanent. As the vehicle is driven the transmission fluid will begin to look
darker. The color may eventually appear light brown.

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
REMOVAL
1.Loosen the wheel nuts slightly.
Raise the front of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove the front wheel and tire (A) from front hub (B).
Be careful not to damage to the hub bolts (C) when removing the front wheel and tire (A).
3. Remove the brake hose bracket bolt (A, B) from the front strtu assembly.
4.Remove the speed sensor (A) and wire (B) bolts from the front knuckle.
5.Remove the front stabilizer link (A) nut (B) from the strut assembly.

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
REMOVAL
1.Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove the rear wheel and tire (A) from rear hub (B).
Be careful not to damage the hub bolts (C) when removing the rear wheel and tire (A).
3. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (A), and then place the brake caliper assembly (B) with wire as shown in
the illustration.
4.Remove the rear upper arm ball joint self - locking nut (A) and the cotter pin.

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
REMOVAL
1.Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove the rear wheel and tire (A) from rear hub (B).
Be careful not to damage the hub bolts (C) when removing the rear wheel and tire (A).
3. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts (A), and then place the brake caliper assembly (B) with wire as shown in
the illustration.
4.Remove the rear assist arm (A) ball joint self - locking nut (B) and the cotter pin.

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
REMOVAL
1.Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and make sure it is securely supported.
2. Remove the rear wheel and tire (A) from rear hub (B).
Be careful not to damage the hub bolts (C) when removing the rear wheel and tire (A).
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor wire's bracket bolt (A) from the body and the connector.
4.Remove the wheel speed sensor wire's bracket bolt (A) and the parking brake wire's bracket bolt (B).
5.Remove the trailing arm (A) mounting nuts (B) from the knuckle.

2007 > 2.7L V6 GASOLINE >
TROUBLESHOOTING
Symptom Probable cause Remedy
Excessive play in
steering Loose yoke plug
Retighten
Loose steering gear mounting bolts Retighten
Loose or worn tie rod end Retighten or replace as necessary
Steering wheel
operation is not
smooth (Insufficient
power assist) V- belt slippage
Readjust
Damaged V- belt Replace
Low fluid level Replenish
Air in the fluid Bleed air
Twisted or damaged hoses Correct the routing or replace
Insufficient oil pump pressure Repair or replace the oil pump
Sticky flow control valve Replace
Excessive internal oil pump leakage Replace the damaged parts
Excessive oil leaks from rack and pinion in
gear box Replace the damaged parts
Distorted or damaged gear box or valve body
seals Replace
Steering wheel does
not return properly Excessive turning resistance of tierod end
Replace
Yoke plug excessively tight Adjust
Tie rod and/or ball joint cannot turn smoothly Replace
Loose mounting of gear box mounting bracket
Worn steering shaft joint and/or Retighten
Worn steering shaft joint and/or body
grommet Correct or replace
Distorted rack Replace
Damaged pinion bearing Replace
Twisted or damaged hoses Reposition or replace
Damaged oil pressure control valve Replace
Damaged oil pump input shaft bearing Replace
Noise Hissing Noise in Steering Gear
There is some noise with all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing
sound when the steering wheel is turned and the car is not moving. This noise will be most
evident when turning the wheel while the brakes are being applied. There is no relationship
between this noise and steering performance. Do not replace the valve unless the "hissing"
noise becomes extreme. A replaced valve will also make a slight noise, and is not always a
solution for the condition.
Rattling or chucking
noise in the rack and
pinion Interference with hoses from vehicle body
Reposition
Loose gear box bracket Retighten
Loose tie rod end and/or ball joint Retighten
Worn tie rod and/or ball joint Replace
Noise in the oil pump Low fluid level Replenish
Air in the fluid Bleed air
Loose pump mounting bolts Retighten

2.With the engine stopped, step on the brake pedal several times.
Then step on the brake pedal and start the engine. If the pedal moves downward slightly, the booster is in good
condition. If there is no change, the booster is inoperative.
3.With the engine running, step on the brake pedal and then stop the engine.
Hold the pedal depressed for 30 seconds. If the pedal height does not change, the booster is in good condition, if
the pedal rises, the booster is inoperative.
If the above three tests are okay, the booster performance can be determined as good.
Even if one of the above three tests is not okay, check the check valve, vacuum hose and booster for malfunction.
VACUUM HOSE (CHECK VALVE)
INSPECTION
1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose (check valve built in) (A) at the booster (B).
2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the check valve is not
working properly. Replace the back booster vacuum hose and check valve and retest.
[LHD]