2007 GMC SAVANA Owner's Manual

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important
weight to measure because it affects the total
or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle
Weight (GVW) includes the curb weight of the
vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and
the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you
have a lot of options, equipment, passengers
or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue
weight your vehicle can carry, which will also
reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And
if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue
load to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. SeeLoading Your
Vehicle on page 259about your vehicle’s
maximum load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B),
up to a maximum of 400 lbs (181 kg) with a weight
carrying hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should
be 10 percent to 15 percent of the total loaded
trailer weight (B), up to a maximum of 1,000 lbs
(454 kg) with a weight distributing hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue
weight for your vehicle. Choose the shortest hitch
extension that will position the hitch ball closest
to the vehicle. This will help reduce the effect
of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle.
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After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer
and then the tongue, separately, to see if the
weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able
to get them right simply by moving some items
around in the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to
carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot
cause the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear
Gross Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional
weight may reduce your trailering capacity more
than the total of the additional weight.
Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs
(2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the front
axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear axle.It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg), a RGAWR
of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a GCWR (Gross
Combination Weight Rating) of 14,000 lbs
(6 350 kg). The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least
10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and
because the weight is applied well behind the
rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater
than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times
as much. The weight at the rear axle could be
850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg).
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Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the
total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to,
but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The
vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
But let’s say your specific vehicle is equipped
with some of the latest options and you have a
front seat passenger and two rear seat passengers
with some luggage and gear in the vehicle as
well. You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the
front axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear
axle weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you
may think that you should subtract 700 additional
pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity to
stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailerwould only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go
further and think you must limit tongue weight to
less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid exceeding
GVWR. But, you must still consider the effect on the
rear axle. Because your rear axle now weighs
3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs
(408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding
RGAWR. The effect of tongue weight is about
1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing the 900 lbs
(408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you with being able to
handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue weight.
Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent of
total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle
does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR,
GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating
or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you
are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh
your vehicle and trailer.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers
on the Certification label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 259. Then be sure you don’t go over
the GVW limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR,
including the weight of the trailer tongue. If you use
a weight distributing hitch, make sure you don’t
go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why you’ll need
the right hitch.
The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or
other bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
Weight-Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch
must be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains
the same both before and after coupling the
trailer to the tow vehicle.
If you use a step-bumper hitch, your bumper could
be damaged in sharp turns. Make sure you
have ample room when turning to avoid contact
between the trailer and the bumper.
(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle
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If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than 5,000 lbs (2 270 kg), be sure to
use a properly mounted weight-distributing hitch
and sway control of the proper size. This equipment
is very important for proper vehicle loading and
good handling when you’re driving. You should
always use a sway control if your trailer will weigh
more than these limits. You can ask a hitch dealer
about sway controls.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you’re using the wiring provided with the
factory-installed trailering package, you should not
need to make any holes in the body of your vehicle.
However, if you have an aftermarket hitch installed,
you may need to make holes in the body.
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later
when you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle as well as dirt and water.
See “Carbon Monoxide” underEngine Exhaust
on page 132.Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains
under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the
tongue from contacting the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety
chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the
manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the
bumper. Always leave just enough slack so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag
on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they
must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Since your vehicle is equipped with StabiliTrak
®,
your trailer brake system cannot tap into the
vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You can not see or smell CO. It can
cause unconsciousness or death. See
Engine Exhaust on page 132. To maximize
your safety when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with
the fan on any speed. This will bring
fresh, outside air into your vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
Do not use the climate control setting for
maximum air because it only recirculates
the air inside your vehicle. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself
with the feel of handling and braking with the added
weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that
the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal
longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle
is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand
to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you
check your electrical connection at the same time.
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During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have
extra wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal
flasher (included in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash
whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash,
telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change
lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs
on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think
drivers behind you are seeing your signal when
they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to
be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a
lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you
turn your engine off immediately after towing at high
altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may
show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid
this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on
level ground) with the automatic transmission in
PARK (P) for a few minutes before turning the
engine off. If you do get the overheat warning, see
Engine Overheating on page 309.
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