Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 1J-4 Charging System:
Diagnostic Information and Procedures
Battery InspectionS6RW0D1A04001
Common Causes of Failure
A battery is not designed to last indefinitely; however,
with proper care, it will provide many years of service. If
the battery performs satisfactorily during test buy fails to
operate properly for no apparent reason, the following
are some factors that may point to the cause of trouble:
• Accessories left on overnight or for an extended
period without the generator operating.
• Slow average driving speed for short periods.
• Electrical load exceeding generator output particularly
with addition of aftermarket equipment.
• Defects in charging system such as high resistance,
slipping drive belt, loose generator output terminal,
faulty generator or voltage regulator. Refer to
“Generator Symptom Diagnosis”.
• Battery abuse, including failure to keep battery cable
terminals clean and tight or loose battery hold down.
• Mechanical problems in electrical system such as
shorted or pinched wires.
Visual Inspection
Check for obvious damage, such as cracked or broken
case or cover, that could permit loss of electrolyte. If
obvious damage is noted, replace battery. Determine
cause of damage and correct as needed.
Generator Symptom DiagnosisS6RW0D1A04002
CAUTION!
• Do not mistake polarities of “IG” terminal
and “L” terminal.
• Do not create short circuit between “IG”
and “L” terminals. Always connect these
terminals through a lamp.
• Do not connect any load between “L” and
“E” terminals.
• When connecting charger or booster
battery to vehicle battery, refer to “Jump
Starting in Case of Emergency”.
Trouble in charging system will show up as one or more
of the following conditions:
1) Faulty indicator lamp operation.
2) An undercharged battery as evidenced by slow
cranking or indicator dark.
3) An overcharged battery as evidenced by excessive
spewing of electrolyte from vents.
Noise from generator may be caused by loose drive
pulley, loose mounting bolts, worn or dirty bearings,
defective diode, or defective stator.
B: Generator output (Battery terminal) IG: Ignition terminal
C: C terminal L: Lamp terminal
E: Ground FR: Field duty monitor
F: Field coil terminal
E FFRC
B
IG
L
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Charging Indicator Lamp Operation
Generator Test (Undercharged Battery Check)S6RW0D1A04003
This condition, as evidenced by slow cranking or low
specific gravity can be caused by one or more of the
following conditions even though indicator lamp may be
operating normal. The following procedure also applies
to cars with voltmeter and ammeter.
• Make sure that undercharged condition has not been
caused by accessories left on for extended period of
time.
• Check drive belt for proper tension.
• If battery defect is suspected, refer to “Battery
Description”.
• Inspect wiring for defects. Check all connections for
tightness and cleanliness, battery cable connections
at battery, starting motor and ignition ground cable.
No-Load Check
1) Connect voltmeter and ammeter as shown in figure.
NOTE
Use fully charged battery.
2) Run engine from idling up to 2,000 rpm with all
accessories turned off and read meters.
If voltage is higher than standard value, check
ground of brushes.
If brushes are not grounded, replace IC regulator.
If voltage is lower than standard value, proceed to
the following check.
Specification for undercharged battery (No-load
check)
Current: 10 A
Voltage: 14.2 – 14.8 V at Hi (H) (at 25 °C, 77 °F)
Voltage: 12.5 – 13.1 V at Lo (L) (at 25 °C, 77 °F)
NOTE
Consideration should be taken that voltage
will differ somewhat with regulator case
temperature as shown in figure.
Condition Possible cause Correction / Reference Item
Charge light does not
light with ignition ON and
engine offFuse blownCheck fuse.
Indicator lamp (LED) faultyCheck BCM, combination meter and/or CAN
communication line.
Wiring connection looseTighten loose connection.
IC regulator or field coil faultyCheck generator.
Poor contact between brush and slip
ringRepair or replace.
Charge light does not go
out with engine running
(battery requires frequent
recharging)Drive belt loose or wornAdjust or replace drive belt.
IC regulator or generator faultyCheck charging system.
Wiring faultyRepair wiring.
1. Generator
2. Ammeter (between generator “B” terminal and battery (+) terminal)
3. Voltmeter (between generator “B” terminal and ground)
4. Battery
5. Load
6. Switch
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[A]: Regulated voltage (V)
[B]: Heatsink temperature (°C)
16.0
12.0
14.2 15.3
14.8
14.2
13.3 14.8
15.0
11.0 14.0
13.0 [A]
12.5 13.6
13.1
12.5
11.613.1
[B] -30 0 25 135
H
L
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1) Set parking brake and place automatic transaxle in
PARK (NEUTRAL on manual transaxle). Turn off
ignition, turn off lights and all other electrical loads.
2) Check electrolyte level. If it is below low level line,
add distilled water.
3) Attach end of one jumper cable to positive terminal
of booster battery and the other end of the same
cable to positive terminal of discharged battery. (Use
12-volt battery only to jump start engine).
4) Attach one end of the remaining negative cable to
negative terminal of booster battery, and the other
end to a solid engine ground (such as exhaust
manifold) at least 45 cm (18 in.) away from battery of
vehicle being started.
5) Start engine of vehicle with booster battery and turn
off electrical accessories. Then start engine of the
vehicle with discharged battery.
6) Disconnect jumper cables in the exact reverse order.
With Charging Equipment
CAUTION!
When jump starting engine with charging
equipment, be sure equipment used is 12-
volt and negative ground. Do not use 24-volt
charging equipment. Using such equipment
can cause serious damage to electrical
system or electronic parts.
Battery Dismounting and RemountingS6RW0D1A06002
Dismounting
1) Disconnect negative cable (3).
2) Disconnect positive cable (2).
3) Remove retainer (4).
4) Remove battery (1).
Handling
When handling battery, the following safety precautions
should be followed:
• Hydrogen gas is produced by battery. A flame or
spark near battery may cause the gas to ignite.
• Battery fluid is highly acidic. Avoid spilling on clothing
or other fabric. Any spilled electrolyte should be
flushed with large quantity of water and cleaned
immediately.Remounting
1) Reverse removal procedure.
2) Tighten battery cables securely.
NOTE
Check to be sure that ground cable has
enough clearance to hood panel by terminal.
Water Pump / Generator Drive Belt Tension
Inspection and Adjustment
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WARNING!
• Disconnect negative cable at battery
before checking and adjusting belt
tension.
• To help avoid danger of being burned, do
not remove radiator cap while engine and
radiator are still hot. Scalding fluid and
steam can be blown out under pressure if
cap is taken off too soon.
1) Inspect belt for cracks, cuts, deformation, wear and
cleanliness. If it is necessary to replace belt, refer to
“Water Pump / Generator Drive Belt Removal and
Installation”.
2) Check belt for tension. Belt is in proper tension when
it deflects the following specification under thumb
pressure (about 10kg or 22 lb.).
If belt tension is out of specification, go to next steps.
Water pump / generator drive belt tension
“a”
Existing belt: 4.5 – 5.5 mm (0.18 – 0.22 in.) as
deflection / 10 kg (22 lbs)
New belt: 4.0 – 4.5mm (0.16 – 0.18 in.) as
deflection / 10 kg (22 lbs)
1. Battery 4. Retainer
2. Positive cable 5. Nut
3. Negative cable
21
4
3
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3) After loosening generator bracket bolts (2) and pivot
bolt (3), adjust belt tension to specification described
at step 2) by loosening / tightening generator adjust
bolt (1).
4) Tighten generator bracket bolts and pivot bolt as
specified torque.
Tightening torque
Generator bracket bolt (a): 25 N·m (2.5 kgf-m,
18.0 lb-ft)
Generator pivot bolt (b): 50 N·m (5.0 kgf-m, 36.0
lb-ft)
5) Check belt tension for specification after turning
crankshaft two rotations clockwise.
6) Tighten generator adjusting bolt (1) as specified
torque.
Tightening torque
Generator adjusting bolt (c): Tighten 7.0 N·m (
0.7 kgf-m, 5.0 lb-ft) by the specified procedure.
7) Connect negative cable at battery.
Water Pump / Generator Drive Belt Removal and
Installation
S6RW0D1A06007
Removal
1) Disconnect negative cable at battery.
2) If vehicle equipped with A/C, remove compressor
drive belt before removing water pump belt (1).
Refer to “Compressor Drive Belt Removal and
Installation in Section 7B” or “Compressor Drive Belt
Removal and Installation in Section 7B”.
3) Loosen generator bracket bolts (2) and generator
pivot bolt (3).
4) Loosen generator adjusting bolt (4), and then
remove water pump belt.
installation
1) Install belt (1) to water pump pulley (2), crankshaft
pulley (3) and generator pulley (4).
2) Adjust belt tension referring to “Water Pump /
Generator Drive Belt Tension Inspection and
Adjustment”.
3) If vehicle equipped with A/C, install compressor drive
belt referring to “Compressor Drive Belt Removal
and Installation in Section 7B” or “Compressor Drive
Belt Removal and Installation in Section 7B”.
4) Connect negative cable at battery.
a
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1, (c)
2, (a)
3, (b)
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23
1
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2
1
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Generator Dismounting and RemountingS6RW0D1A06003
1) Disconnect negative cable at battery.
2) Remove right side drive shaft referring to “Front Drive Shaft Assembly Removal and Installation in Section 3A”
3) Dismount in numerical order as shown in figure.
4) Reverse dismounting procedure for remounting.
I6RW0D1A0004-01
1. “B” terminal nut 5. Generator pivot bolt : 25 N⋅m (2.5 kgf-m, 18.0 lb-ft)
2. “B” terminal wire 6. Generator drive belt : 50 N⋅m (5.0 kgf-m, 36.0 lb-ft)
3. Connector 7. Generator
4. Generator bracket bolt : 5.0 N⋅m (0.5 kg⋅m, 4.0 lb-ft)
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Wheels and Tires: 2D-2
Replacement Tires
When replacement is necessary, the original equipment
type tire should be used. Refer to the Tire Placard.
Replacement tires should be of the same size, load
range and construction as those originally on the vehicle.
Use of any other size or type tire may affect ride,
handling, speedometer / odometer calibration, vehicle
ground clearance and tire or snow chain clearance to the
body and chassis.
It is recommended that new tires be installed in pairs on
the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it
should be paired with the tire having the most tread, to
equalize braking traction.
WARNING!
Do not mix different types of tires on the
same vehicle such as radial, bias and bias-
belted tires except in emergencies, because
handling may be seriously affected and may
result in loss of control.
The metric term for tire inflation pressure is the kilo
pascal (kPa). Tire pressures is usually printed in both
kPa and kgf/cm
2 on the “Tire Placard”.
Metric tire gauges are available from tool suppliers.
The chart, shown in the table, converts commonly used
inflation pressures from kPa to kgf/cm
2 and psi.
Wheels DescriptionS6RW0D2401002
Wheel Maintenance
Wheel repairs that use welding, heating, or peening are
not approved. All damaged wheels should be replaced.
Replacement Wheels
Wheels must be replaced if they are bent, dented, have
excessive lateral or radial runout, air leak through welds,
have elongated bolt holes, if lug wheel bolts won’t stay
tight, or if they are heavily rusted. Wheels with greater
runout than shown in the following may cause
objectional vibrations.
Replacement wheels must be equivalent to the original
equipment wheels in load capacity, diameter, rim with
offset and mounting configuration. A wheel of improper
size or type may affect wheel and bearing life, brake
cooling, speedometer / odometer calibration, vehicle
ground clearance and tire clearance to body and
chassis.How to Measure Wheel Runout
To measure the wheel runout, it is necessary to use an
accurate dial indicator. The tire may be on or off the
wheel. The wheel should be installed to the wheel
balancer of the like for proper measurement.
Take measurements of both lateral runout “a” and radial
runout “b” at both inside and outside of the rim flange.
With the dial indicator set in place securely, turn the
wheel one full revolution slowly and record every reading
of the indicator.
When the measured runout exceeds the specification
and correction by the balancer adjustment is impossible,
replace the wheel. If the reading is affected by welding,
paint or scratch, it should be ignored.
Lateral runout limit “a”
Aluminum wheel: 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Steel wheel: 0.9 mm (0.035 in.)
Radial runout limit “b”
Aluminum wheel: 0.3 mm (0.012 in.)
Steel wheel: 0.7 mm (0.028 in.)
Metric Lug Nuts and Wheel Studs
All models use metric lug nuts and wheel studs.
Metric lug nuts and wheel studs size
M12 x 1.25
If a broken stud is found, see “Front Wheel Hub, Disc,
Bolt and Bearing Check in Section 2B”, “Front Wheel
Hub, Steering Knuckle and Wheel Bearing Removal and
Installation in Section 2B”, “Rear Wheel Hub Assembly
Removal and Installation in Section 2C”. kPa kgf/cm
2psi
Conversion: 1 psi =
6.895 kPa 1 kgf/cm
2 =
98.066 kPa160 1.6 23
180 1.8 26
200 2.0 29
220 2.2 32
240 2.4 35
260 2.6 38
280 2.8 41
300 3.0 44
320 3.2 47
340 3.4 50I4RS0A240001-01
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Irregular and/or Premature Wear DescriptionS6RW0D2401003
Irregular and premature wear has many causes. Some
of them are as follows: incorrect inflation pressures, lack
of tire rotation, driving habits, improper alignment.
If the following conditions are noted, tire rotation is
necessary:
• Front tire wear is different from rear’s.
• Uneven wear exists across tread of any tires.
• Both sides of front tire wears are not even.
• Both sides of rear tire wears are not even.
• There is cupping, flat spotting, etc.
A wheel alignment check is necessary if following
conditions are noted:
• Both sides of front tire wears are not even.
• Wear is uneven across the tread of any front tire.
• Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with
“feather” edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
Wear Indicators DescriptionS6RW0D2401004
Original equipment tires have built-in tread wear
indicators (1) to show when they need replacement.
These indicators (1) will appear as 12 mm (0.47 in.) wide
bands when the tire tread depth becomes 1.6 mm (0.063
in.).
When the indicators (1) appear in 3 or more grooves at 6
locations, tire replacement is recommended.
Radial Tire Waddle DescriptionS6RW0D2401005
Waddle is side to side movement at the front and/or rear
of the vehicle. It is caused by the steel belt not being
straight within the tire. It is most noticeable at a low
speed, 8 to 48 kph (5 to 30 mph).
It is possible to locate the faulty tire by road testing the
vehicle. If it is on the rear, the rear end of the vehicle
shakes from side to side or “waddles”. To the driver in
the seat, it feels as though someone is pushing on the
side of vehicle.
If the faulty tire is on the front, waddling is more visual.
The front sheet metal appears to be moving back and
forth and the driver feels as though he is at the pivot
point in vehicle.
Waddle can be quickly diagnosed by using Tire Problem
Detector (TPD) and following the equipment
manufacture’s recommendations.
If TPD is not available, an alternative method of
substituting known-good tire / wheel assemblies can be
used as follows, although it takes a longer time.
1) Ride vehicle to determine whether the front or rear
waddles.
2) Install tires and wheels that are known to be good
(on similar vehicle) in place of those on waddling end
of vehicle. If waddling end cannot be identified,
substitute rear ones.
3) Road test again. If improvement is noted, reinstall
originals one at a time till waddle causal tire is found.
If no improvement is noted, install known-good tires
in place of all four. Then reinstall originals in the
same manner.
[A]: Hard Cornering, under inflation or lack of tire rotation
[B]: Incorrect wheel alignment, tire construction not uniform or wheel
heavy acceleration
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Equipment manufacture’s recommendations
Radial Tire Lead / Pull DescriptionS6RW0D2401006
“Lead / Pull” is the deviation of the vehicle from a straight
path on a level road even with no pressure on the
steering wheel.
Lead is usually caused by the following conditions.
• Improper tire and wheel alignment.
• Uneven brake assemblies.
• Tire construction.
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a
vehicle. An example of this is placement of the belt. Off
center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop
a side force while rolling straight down the road. If one
side of the tire has a little larger diameter than the other,
the tire will tend to roll to one side. This will develop a
side force which can produce vehicle lead.
The procedure in the figure (Lead Diagnosis) should be
used to make sure that wheel alignment is not mistaken
for tire lead.
• Part of the lead diagnosis procedure is different from
the proper tire rotation pattern currently in the owner
and service manuals. If a medium to high mileage tire
is moved to the other side of the vehicle, be sure to
check that ride roughness has not developed
• Rear tires will not cause lead.
Balancing Wheels DescriptionS6RW0D2401007
There are two types of wheel and tire balance: static and
dynamic. Static balance, as shown in figure, is the equal
distribution of weight around the wheel. Wheels that are
statically unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
tramp. This condition will eventually cause uneven tire
wear.Dynamic balance, as shown in figure, is the equal
distribution of weight on each side of the wheel
centerline so that when the tire spins there is no
tendency for the assembly to move from side to side.
Wheels that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
Inflate tires to recommended pressure
Road test vehicle on level unrouned road in both directions
Switch front tires side to side and road test again
Lead corrected,
if roughness results, replace tiresLeads in same directionLeads reverses direction
Put tires back in original position
and check alignmentInstall a known-good tire on one front side
Lead remains install a known-good
tire in place of other front tire
Lead remains known-good tires are not goodLead corrected replace tire
Lead corrected replace tire
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1. Heavy spot wheel tramp [A]: Before correction
2. Balance weights addition point [B]: Corrective weights
3. C/L of spindle
1. Heavy spot wheel shimmy [C]: Before correction
2. Balance weights addition point [D]: Corrective weights
3. C/L of spindle
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