2005 SUZUKI JIMNY Lever

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On-Vehicle Service
Accelerator cable adjustment
1) With throttle valve closed, check accelerator pedal play
which should be within following specification.
If measured value is out of specification, adjust it to specifi-
cation with cable adjusting nut (1).
Accelerator pedal play
“a” : 2 – 7 mm (0.08 – 0.27 in.)
2) With accelerator pedal depressed fully, check clearance
between throttle lever (2) and lever stopper (3) (throttle
body) which should be within following specification.
If measured value is out of specification, adjust it to specifi-
cation by changing height of pedal stopper bolt (1).
Accelerator cable adjustment clearance
(With pedal depressed fully)
“a” : 0.5 – 2.0 mm (0.02 – 0.07 in.)
Idle speed / idle air control (IAC) duty inspection
Before idle speed / IAC duty check, make sure of the following.
Lead wires and hoses of Electronic Fuel Injection and engine
emission control systems are connected securely.
Accelerator cable has some play, that is, it is not tight.
Valve lash is checked and adjusted according to mainte-
nance schedule.
Ignition timing is within specification.
All accessories (wipers, heater, lights, A/C, etc.) are out of
service.
Air cleaner has been properly installed and is in good condi-
tion.
No abnormal air inhaling from air intake system.
After above items are all confirmed, check idle speed and IAC
duty as follows.
NOTE:
Before starting engine, place transmission gear shift
lever in “Neutral” (shift selector lever to “P” range for A/T
vehicle), and set parking brake and block drive wheels.

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Air Intake System
Throttle body
ON-VEHICLE INSPECTION
Check that throttle valve lever (1) moves smoothly.
REMOVAL
1) Disconnect negative cable at battery.
2) Drain cooling system.
3) Disconnect accelerator cable (1) from throttle valve lever.
1. Throttle body 4. Gasket 7. TP sensor screws
2. Throttle body gasket 5. Idle air control valve Tightening torque
3. TP sensor 6. IAC valve screws Do not reuse

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4) Disconnect air cleaner outlet NO.2 hose (1) from throttle
body.
5) Disconnect electric connector from TP sensor (1) and IAC
valve (2).
6) Remove throttle body from intake manifold.
7) Disconnect engine coolant hoses from throttle body.
DISASSEMBLY
1) Remove TP sensor and IAC valve from throttle body.
CLEANING
Clean throttle body bore (1) and idle air passage (2) by blowing
compressed air.
REASSEMBLY
1) Install IAC valve to throttle body referring to “Idle Air Control
Valve” in this section.
2) Install TP sensor to throttle body referring to “Throttle Posi-
tion Sensor” in this section for installation.
NOTE:
While disassembling and assembling throttle body, use
special care not to deform levers on throttle valve shaft
or cause damage to any other parts.
NOTE:
TP sensor, idle air control valve or other components
containing rubber must not be placed in a solvent or
cleaner bath. A chemical reaction will cause these parts
to swell, harden or get distorted.

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Fuel cut operation
INSPECTION
1) Warm up engine to normal operating temperature.
2) While listening to sound of injector (1) by using sound scope
(2) or such, increase engine speed to higher than 3,000 r/
min.
3) Check to make sure that sound to indicate operation of injec-
tor stops when throttle valve is closed instantly and it is
heard again when engine speed is reduced to less than
about 2,000 r/min.
A/C condenser fan control system
SYSTEM INSPECTION
Check system for operation referring to “Flow Table B-7” in Sec-
tion 6.
If A/C condenser fan fails to operate properly, check relay, A/C
condenser fan and electrical circuit.
A/C condenser fan
INSPECTION
1) Check continuity between each two terminals.
If there is no continuity, replace A/C condenser fan motor. NOTE:
Before inspection, check to make sure that gear shift
lever is in neutral position (with A/T model, selector lever
in “P” range), A/C is OFF and that parking brake lever is
pulled all the way up.
WARNING:
Keep hands, tools, and clothing away from A/C con-
denser fan to help prevent personal injury. This fan is
electric and can come on whether or not the engine is
running. The fan can start automatically in response to
the ECT sensor with the ignition switch in the “ON” posi-
tion.

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REMOVAL
1) Disconnect negative cable at battery.
2) Disconnect EGR valve connector.
3) Remove EGR pipe.
4) Remove EGR valve and gasket from cylinder head.
INSPECTION
1) Check resistance between following terminals of EGR valve
(1) in each pair.
If found faulty, replace EGR valve assembly.
EGR valve resistance
2) Remove carbon from EGR valve (1) gas passage.
3) Inspect valve (2), valve seat (3) and rod for fault, cracks,
bend or other damage.
If found faulty, replace EGR valve assembly.
INSTALLATION
Reverse removal procedure noting following.
Clean mating surface of valve and cylinder head.
Use new gaskets.
Evaporative emission (EVAP) control system
EVAP CANISTER PURGE INSPECTION
Terminal Standard resistance
A – B
C – B
F – E
D – E 20 – 24
Ω
ΩΩ Ω
NOTE:
Do not use any sharp-edged tool to remove carbon.
Be careful not to damage or bend EGR valve, valve seat
and rod.
NOTE:
Before inspection, check to make sure that gear shift
lever is in neutral position (with A/T model, selector lever
in “P” range) and that parking brake lever is pulled all the
way up.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 6F-8 IGNITION SYSTEM (ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM)
6) Measure resistance between terminals as follows by using
analog type ohmmeter.
If check result is not satisfactory, replace ignition coil assem-
bly.
Secondary coil resistance
“a” – “b” : 7.5 – 14 k
Ω (at 20°C, 68°F)
7) Install ignition coil assembly.
8) Tighten ignition coil bolts, and then connect ignition coil cou-
pler.
9) Install high-tension cord to ignition coil assembly while grip-
ping its cap.
10) Install cylinder head upper cover.
Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP Sensor)
Refer to “Crankshaft Position Sensor” in Section 6E for removal,
inspection and installation.
Ignition Timing
INSPECTION
1) When using SUZUKI scan tool (1), connect SUZUKI scan
tool to DLC (2) with ignition switch OFF.
Special tool
(A) : SUZUKI scan tool
2) Start engine and warm it up to normal operating tempera-
ture.
3) Make sure that all of electrical loads except ignition are
switched off.
4) Check to be sure that idle speed is within specification.
(Refer to “Idle Speed/Idle Air Control Duty Inspection” in
Section 6E.)
NOTE:
Ignition timing is not adjustable. If ignition timing is
out of specification, check system related parts.
Before starting engine, place transmission gear shift
lever in “Neutral” (shift selector lever to “P” range for
A/T model), and set parking brake.

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General Description
Cranking Circuit
Diagnosis
Diagnosis Table
Possible symptoms due to starting system trouble would be as follows:
Starting motor does not run (or runs slowly)
Starting motor runs but fails to crank engine
Abnormal noise is heard
Proper diagnosis must be made to determine exactly where the cause of each trouble lies.....in battery, wiring
harness, (including starting motor switch), starting motor or engine.
Do not remove motor just because starting motor does not run. Check following items and narrow down scope
of possible causes.
1) Condition of trouble
2) Tightness of battery terminals (including ground cable connection on engine side) and starting motor termi-
nals
3) Discharge of battery
4) Mounting of starting motor
1. Pinion drive lever 5. Plunger 9. A/T: Transmission range switch (shift lever switch)
2. Pinion & Over-running clutch 6. Magnetic switch contacts 10. Ignition & Starter switch
3. Magnetic switch 7. Pull-in coil 11. Battery
4. Hold-in coil 8. Starting motor

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Condition Possible Cause Correction
Motor not running
(No operating sound of
magnetic switch)Shift lever switch is not in P or N, or not adjusted
(A/T)Shift in P or N, or adjust switch.
Battery run down Recharge battery.
Battery voltage too low due to battery deteriora-
tionReplace battery.
Poor contact in battery terminal connection Retighten or replace.
Loose grounding cable connection Retighten.
Fuse set loose or blown off Tighten or replace.
Poor contacting action of ignition switch and mag-
netic switchReplace.
Lead wire coupler loose in place Retighten.
Open-circuit between ignition switch and magnetic
switchRepair.
Open-circuit in pull-in coil Replace magnetic switch.
Brushes are seating poorly or worn down Repair or replace.
Poor sliding of plunger and/or pinion Repair.
Motor not running
(Operating sound of
magnetic switch
heard)Battery run down Recharge battery.
Battery voltage too low due to battery deteriora-
tionReplace battery.
Loose battery cable connections Retighten.
Burnt main contact point, or poor contacting action
of magnetic switchReplace magnetic switch.
Brushes are seating poorly or worn down Repair or replace.
Weakened brush spring Replace.
Burnt commutator Replace armature.
Layer short-circuit of armature Replace.
Crankshaft rotation obstructed Repair.
Starting motor running
but too slow (small
torque) (If battery and
wiring are satisfac-
tory, inspect starting
motor)Insufficient contact of magnetic switch main con-
tactsReplace magnetic switch.
Layer short-circuit of armature Replace.
Disconnected, burnt or worn commutator Repair commutator or replace
armature.
Worn brushes Replace brush.
Weakened brush springs Replace spring.
Burnt or abnormally worn end bush Replace bush.
Starting motor run-
ning, but not cranking
engineWorn pinion tip Replace over-running clutch.
Poor sliding of over-running clutch Repair.
Over-running clutch slipping Replace over-running clutch.
Worn teeth of ring gear Replace flywheel (M/T) or drive
plate (A/T).
Noise
Abnormally worn bush Replace bush.
Worn pinion or worn teeth of ring gear Replace pinion or flywheel
(M/T) or drive plate (A/T).
Poor sliding of pinion (failure in return movement) Repair or replace.
Worn internal or planetary gear teeth Replace.
Lack of oil in each part Lubricate.