2005 MERCEDES-BENZ SPRINTER brake rotor

HUB / BEARING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING -
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the grease cap.
(3) Position a dial indicator against the face of the
wheel hub (Fig. 3).
(4) Tighten the locking screw on the clamping nut
(Fig. 3).
(5) Pull the wheel hub firmly back and forth and
read off the wheel bearing play on the dial gauge.
(Wheel bearing play should be 0.02 - 0.04 mm
(0.000787 - 0.00158 in.).
(6) If necessary, loosen the locking screw and
adjust the wheel bearing play by loosing or tighten-
ing the clamping nut.
(7) Retighten the locking screw and recheck the
wheel bearing play.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the wheel flange ring (if equipped with
dual rear wheels) (Fig. 5).
(5) Remove the disc brake rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the grease cap (Fig. 4).(7) Loosen the bolt on the clamping nut and
remove the clamping nut (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the thrust washer (Fig. 4).
(9) Remove the wheel hub and tapered roller bear-
ing from the stub axle assembly (Fig. 4).
Fig. 2 LCA BUSHING INSTALL
1 - SPECIAL TOOL C-4212F (PRESS)
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 9302-1 (DRIVER)
3 - BUSHING
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 9302-2 (SIZER CUP)
5 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
6 - SPECIAL TOOL 9302-4 (RECEIVER CUP)
Fig. 3 MEASURING & ADJUSTING WHEEL BEARING
1 - WHEEL HUB
2 - LOCKING SCREW
3 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 4 FRONT WHEEL HUB WITH SINGLE REAR
WHEELS (SRW)
1 - CALIPER ADAPTER BOLT
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - INNER BEARING
4 - WHEEL HUB
5 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
6 - OUTER BEARING
7 - THRUST WASHER
8 - CLAMPING NUT
9 - GREASE CAP
10 - LOCKING BOLT
11 - GREASE SEAL
12 - STEERING KNUCKLE
2 - 4 FRONTVA
BUSHINGS (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wheel hub with the tapered roller
bearing on the stub axle (Fig. 4).
(2) Grease the outer tapered roller bearing thor-
oughly and push onto the steering knuckle (Fig. 4).
NOTE: The smooth side of the thrust washer must
point toward the wheel bearing.
(3) Install the thrust washer (Fig. 4).
(4) Install the clamping nut (Fig. 4). Tighten to 12
N´m (9 ft. lbs.) and then loosen a half of a turn.
(5) Check for wheel bearing end play. End play
should be 0.02- 0.04 mm (0.000787 - 0.00158 in.)
(Fig. 3) (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/HUB /
BEARING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
(6) Pack the grease cap half with grease and coat
at the edge with sealant and install the cap (Fig. 4).
(7) Install the disc brake rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the wheel flange ring (if equipped with
dual rear wheels) (Fig. 5).(10) Install the front tire & wheels assembly
(Refer to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTAL-
LATION).
(11) Lower the vehicle.
KNUCKLE
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the front wheels (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS/WHEELS - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the hub/bearing (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/HUB / BEARING - REMOVAL).
(5) Separate the outer tie rod from the steering
knuckle (Fig. 6) using special tool C-3894±A.
(6) Raise the lower control arm approximately 10
mm using a jack.In order to eliminate tensile
force in the damper strut.
(7) Remove the ABS sensor from the knuckle by
pulling straight out.
(8) Remove the strut at the knuckle (Fig. 6).
(9) Separate the lower ball joint from the steering
knuckle using special tool 9282 (Fig. 6).
(10) Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle
(Fig. 6).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the steering knuckle on the lower ball
joint stud (Fig. 6).
Fig. 5 FRONT WHEEL HUB WITH DUAL REAR
WHEELS (DRW)
1 - ADAPTER BOLT
2 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
3 - INNER BEARING RACE
4 - WHEEL HUB
5 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
6 - LOCKING BOLT
7 - WHEEL FLANGE RING
8 - OUTER BEARING
9 - THRUST WASHER
10 - CLAMPING NUT
11 - GREASE CAP
12 - WHEEL FLANGE RING MOUNTING BOLT
13 - GREASE SEAL
14 - STEERING KNUCKLE
Fig. 6 STEERING KNUCKLE
1 - STRUT
2 - STRUT BOLT
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - LOWER BALL JOINT NUT
5 - OUTER TIE ROD END RETAINING NUT
6 - INNER TIE ROD END
7 - LOWER CONTROL ARM
VAFRONT 2 - 5
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

NOTE: In order to remove tension from the strut,
Raise the lower control arm approximately 10 mm
with a jack.
(2) Install the lower ball joint into the steering
knuckle. Tighten to 280 N´m (206 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the strut bolts to the steering knuckle
(Fig. 8). Tighten to 185 N´m (136 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install the stop plate (Refer to 2 - SUSPEN-
SION/FRONT/SPRING STOP PLATES - INSTALLA-
TION).
(5) Lower the lower control arm.
(6) Attach the tie rod to the steering knuckle (Fig.
8). Tighten the nut to 130 N´m (96 ft. lbs.)
(7) Install the disc brake caliper adapter (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION)
(Fig. 8).
(8) Install the front tire & wheel assembly (Refer
to 22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(9) Lower the vehicle.
(10) Remove the spring blocks between the spring
and the spring clamp plates, While the vehicles
wheels are on the ground.
(11) Roll the vehicle approximately 1 mm forwards
and the backwards, and rock firmly.(12) Tighten the lower control arm nuts and bolts
to the frame to 150 N´m (110 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 8).
(13) Apply brake to actuate brake pressure.
SPRING
REMOVAL
(1)To do this next step the vehicle must be
on the ground.Remove the front and rear bolts on
the left and right spring clamp plates (Fig. 9).
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the front wheels.
(4) Remove the brake caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).Do not
allow the caliper to hang by the hose, support
the caliper accordingly.
(5) Remove the ABS sensor from the mounting
bore in the steering knuckle (Fig. 9).
(6) Remove the outer tie rod retaining nut and
separate the tie rod from the knuckle (Fig. 9) using
special tool C-3894±A.
NOTE: In order to remove tension from the strut,
Raise the lower control arm approximately 10 mm
with a jack.
(7) Remove the strut bolts from the steering
knuckle.
(8) Remove both stop plate bolts and rotate the
plates upwards with the stabilizer link attached.
(9) Lower the lower control arm.
(10) Remove the lower ball joint nut from the
steering knuckle.
(11) Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle
using special tool 9282.
(12) Remove the lower control arm nuts and bolts
from the frame.
(13) Remove the lower control arm from the frame
(Fig. 9).
NOTE: To avoid damaging the transverse leaf
spring, cushion the pad on the jack accordingly.
(14) Support the transverse leaf spring in the cen-
ter with a jack.
(15) Remove the left and right spring clamp plates
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/SPRING CLAMP
PLATES - REMOVAL) (Fig. 9).
NOTE: The upper spring blocks between the engine
cradle and the spring are color coded, Make sure
not to mix the blocks per sides. The blocks are dif-
ferent in sizes to accommodate the weight of the
vehicle and driver in order for the vehicle to sit
level.
Fig. 8 LOWER CONTROL ARM
1 - STRUT
2 - LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLT
3 - STOP PLATE BOLT
4 - STOP PLATE
5 - CALIPER ADPTER BOLT
6 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
7 - LOCKING BOLT
8 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
9 - OUTER TIE ROD END RETAINING NUT
10 - OUTER TIE ROD END
11 - LOWER BALL JOINT NUT
12 - LOWER BALL JOINT
13 - LOWER CONTROL ARM NUTS
14 - STRUT BOLT
VAFRONT 2 - 7
LOWER CONTROL ARM (Continued)

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
3) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.3) Install new yoke.
4) Incorrect driveline angularity. 4) Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5) Rear spring center bolt not in
seat.5) Loosen spring u-bolts and seat
center bolt.
6) Worn U-joint bearings. 6) Install new U-joint.
7) Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.7) Installl new propeller shaft.
8) Broken rear spring. 8) Install new rear spring.
9) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.9) Re-index propeller shaft, test,
and evaluate.
10) Excessive drive pinion gear
shaft runout.10) Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
11) Excessive axle yoke deflection. 11) Inspect and replace yoke if
necessary.
12) Excessive transfer case runout. 12) Inspect and repair as necessary.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Replace as U-joints as
necessary.
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCE
NOTE: Removing and indexing the propeller shaft
180É relative to the yoke may eliminate some vibra-
tions.
If propeller shaft is suspected of being out of bal-
ance, verify with the following procedure:
(1) Place vehicle in netrual.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle by the axles as
level as possible.
(3) Clean all foreign material from propeller shaft
and universal joints.
(4) Inspect propeller shaft for missing balance
weights, broken welds, and bent areas.
NOTE: If propeller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
(5) Inspect universal joints for wear, properly
installed and correct alignment with the shaft.
(6) Check universal joint clamp screws torque.
(7) Remove wheels and tires. Install wheel lug
nuts to retain the brake drums/rotors.(8) Mark and number propeller shaft six inches
from the pinion yoke end at four positions 90É apart.
(9) Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration
occurs. Note intensity and speed the vibration
occurred. Stop the engine.
(10) Install a screw clamp at position 1 (Fig. 1).
(11) Start engine and re-check for vibration. If lit-
tle or no change in vibration is evident, move clamp
to the next positions and repeat vibration test.
NOTE: If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the vibration may not be propeller
shaft.
(12) If vibration decreased, install a second clamp
(Fig. 2) and repeat vibration test.
(13) If additional clamp causes additional vibra-
tion, separate clamps 1/2 inch above and below the
mark. Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between clamps and repeat
test until vibration is at the lowest level. Bend the
slack end of the clamps so the screws will not loosen.
3 - 2 PROPELLER SHAFTVA
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

(2) Slide axle shaft into axle tube.
(3) Install axle shaft hub nuts and tighten to N´m
65 (48 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install wheels.
AXLE HUB BEARINGS/SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove brake caliper with support.
(2) Remove axle shaft.
(3) Back-off parking brakes.
(4) Remove outer hub nut with Wrench 9290 (Fig.
19).
(5) Remove locking plate, inner hub nut and thrust
washer (Fig. 19).
(6) Pull hub off axle tube.
(7) Pry out ABS sensor and remove seal from hub
(Fig. 20).
(8) Remove hub bearings from hub (Fig. 21).
(9) Remove inner and outer bearing cups from hub
with a hammer and drift.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install hub bearing cups with Installer 9291
and a hammer.
(2) Clean and thoroughly grease bearings with
Multi-purpose grease.
(3) Install inner wheel bearing.
(4) Coat outer circumference ofnewseal with
Hylomar SQ 32 M sealant.CAUTION: Do not coat seals rubberized sealing sur-
faces with sealant.
(5) Install seal into hub with an appropriate
installer.
NOTE: Sealing ring should be flush with wheel hub
or max. 3mm (0.12 in.) deep.
(6) Coat contact surface of ABS sensor ring with
Hylomar SQ 32 M sealant.
Fig. 19 HUB NUTS
1 - NUTS
2 - LOCKING PLATE
3 - THRUST WASHER
Fig. 20 SENSOR RING & OIL SEAL
1 - ABS SENSOR RING
2 - SEAL
Fig. 21 AXLE HUB BEARINGS
1 - REAR BEARING
2 - HUB
3 - FRONT BEARING
4 - ROTOR
3 - 20 REAR AXLEVA
AXLE SHAFTS - DUAL REAR WHEELS (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER
CYLINDER BLEEDING..................17
REMOVAL.............................17
INSTALLATION.........................18
PEDAL
REMOVAL.............................18
INSTALLATION.........................19
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION.........................19
OPERATION...........................19
REMOVAL.............................19
INSTALLATION.........................19
ROTORS
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT (SRW)..............19
REMOVAL - REAR (SRW)...............20
REMOVAL - FRONT (DRW)..............20
REMOVAL - REAR (DRW)...............20
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT (SRW)..........21
INSTALLATION - REAR (SRW)...........21
INSTALLATION - FRONT (DRW)..........21
INSTALLATION - REAR (DRW)...........21
SUPPORT PLATE
REMOVAL - REAR......................22
INSTALLATION - REAR...................22
PARKING BRAKE
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................22SPECIAL TOOLS
PARK BRAKE........................23
CABLE TENSIONER
REMOVAL.............................23
INSTALLATION.........................23
CABLES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT....................24
REMOVAL - REAR.....................24
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - FRONT................24
INSTALLATION - REAR.................25
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT - PARKING BRAKE CABLES . 25
LEVER
REMOVAL.............................26
INSTALLATION.........................26
SHOES
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - (SRW)....................26
REMOVAL - (DRW)....................26
CLEANING - REAR DRUM IN HAT BRAKE....27
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - (SRW).................27
INSTALLATION - (DRW).................27
ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUSTMENT........................27
BRAKES - BASE
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake pads,
calipers, brake drum in hat rotor in the rear, rotors,
brake lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking
brake components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.
(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
5 - 2 BRAKES - BASEVA

ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.
²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake pads
²Damaged rotor
VABRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or worn seals, driving through deep
water puddles, or lining that has become covered
with grease and grit during repair. Contaminated lin-
ing should be replaced to avoid further brake prob-
lems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake pads in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE and DOT 4 standards only. Use
fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
filled with brake fluid (Fig. 1). Be sure end of bleed
hose is immersed in fluid.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEVA
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)