2003 DODGE RAM stop

MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
DESCRIPTION
Maintenance Schedule Information not included in
this section, is located in the appropriate Owner's
Manual.
There are two maintenance schedules that show
therequiredservice for your vehicle.
First is ScheduleªBº. It is for vehicles that are
operated under the conditions that are listed below
and at the beginning of the schedule.
²Day or night temperatures are below 0É C (32É
F).
²Stop and go driving.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²Short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles).
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
²Off-road or desert operation.
²If equipped for and operating with E-85
(ethanol) fuel.
NOTE: Most vehicles are operated under the condi-
tions listed for Schedule(B(.
Second is ScheduleªAº. It is for vehicles that are
not operated under any of the conditions listed under
Schedule9B9.
Use the schedule that best describes your driving
conditions. Where time and mileage are listed, follow
the interval that occurs first.
CAUTION: Failure to perform the required mainte-
nance items may result in damage to the vehicle.
At Each Stop for Fuel
²Check the engine oil level about 5 minutes after
a fully warmed engine is shut off. Checking the oil
level while the vehicle is on level ground will
improve the accuracy of the oil level reading. Add oil
only when the level is at or below the ADD or MIN
mark.
²Check the windshield washer solvent and add if
required.
Once a Month
²Check tire pressure and look for unusual wear
or damage.
²Inspect the battery and clean and tighten the
terminals as required.
²Check the fluid levels of coolant reservoir, brake
master cylinder, power steering and transmission
and add as needed.
²Check all lights and all other electrical items for
correct operation.
At Each Oil Change
²Change the engine oil filter.
²Inspect the exhaust system.
²Inspect the brake hoses.
²Inspect the CV joints (if equipped) and front sus-
pension components.
²Check the automatic transmission fluid level.
²Check the manual transmission fluid level.
²Check the coolant level, hoses, and clamps.
²Rotate the tires at each oil change interval
shown on Schedule ªAº 10 000 km (6,000 miles) or
every other interval shown on Schedule ªBº 10 000
km (6,000 miles).
Schedule ªBº
Follow schedule ªBº if you usually operate your
vehicle under one or more of the following conditions.
²Day or night temperatures are below 0É C (32É
F).
²Stop and go driving.
²Extensive engine idling.
²Driving in dusty conditions.
²Short trips of less than 16 km (10 miles).
²More than 50% of your driving is at sustained
high speeds during hot weather, above 32É C (90É F).
²Trailer towing.
²Taxi, police, or delivery service (commercial ser-
vice).
²Off-road or desert operation.
²If equipped for and operating with E-85
(ethanol) fuel.
0 - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEDR

JUMP STARTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - JUMP STARTING
WARNING: REVIEW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
AND WARNINGS IN THE BATTERY SYSTEM SEC-
TION OF THE SERVICE MANUAL. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/BATTERY - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE)
²DO NOT JUMP START A FROZEN BATTERY,
PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
²IF EQUIPPED, DO NOT JUMP START WHEN
MAINTENANCE FREE BATTERY INDICATOR DOT IS
YELLOW OR BRIGHT COLOR.
²DO NOT JUMP START A VEHICLE WHEN THE
BATTERY FLUID IS BELOW THE TOP OF LEAD
PLATES.
²DO NOT ALLOW JUMPER CABLE CLAMPS TO
TOUCH EACH OTHER WHEN CONNECTED TO A
BOOSTER SOURCE.
²DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME NEAR BATTERY.
²REMOVE METALLIC JEWELRY WORN ON
HANDS OR WRISTS TO AVOID INJURY BY ACCI-
DENTAL ARCING OF BATTERY CURRENT.
²WHEN USING A HIGH OUTPUT BOOSTING
DEVICE, DO NOT ALLOW BATTERY VOLTAGE TO
EXCEED 16 VOLTS. REFER TO INSTRUCTIONS
PROVIDED WITH DEVICE BEING USED.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS MAY
RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
CAUTION: When using another vehicle as a
booster, do not allow vehicles to touch. Electrical
systems can be damaged on either vehicle.
TO JUMP START A DISABLED VEHICLE:
(1) Raise hood on disabled vehicle and visually
inspect engine compartment for:
²Battery cable clamp condition, clean if necessary.
²Frozen battery.
²Yellow or bright color test indicator, if equipped.
²Low battery fluid level.
²Generator drive belt condition and tension.
²Fuel fumes or leakage, correct if necessary.CAUTION: If the cause of starting problem on dis-
abled vehicle is severe, damage to booster vehicle
charging system can result.
(2) When using another vehicle as a booster
source, park the booster vehicle within cable reach.
Turn off all accessories, set the parking brake, place
the automatic transmission in PARK or the manual
transmission in NEUTRAL and turn the ignition
OFF.
(3) On disabled vehicle, place gear selector in park
or neutral and set park brake. Turn off all accesso-
ries.
(4) Connect jumper cables to booster battery. RED
clamp to positive terminal (+). BLACK clamp to neg-
ative terminal (-). DO NOT allow clamps at opposite
end of cables to touch, electrical arc will result.
Review all warnings in this procedure.
(5) On disabled vehicle, connect RED jumper cable
clamp to positive (+) terminal. Connect BLACK
jumper cable clamp to engine ground as close to the
ground cable attaching point as possible.
(6) Start the engine in the vehicle which has the
booster battery, let the engine idle a few minutes,
then start the engine in the vehicle with the dis-
charged battery.
CAUTION: Do not crank starter motor on disabled
vehicle for more than 15 seconds, starter will over-
heat and could fail.
(7) Allow battery in disabled vehicle to charge to
at least 12.4 volts (75% charge) before attempting to
start engine. If engine does not start within 15 sec-
onds, stop cranking engine and allow starter to cool
(15 min.), before cranking again.
DISCONNECT CABLE CLAMPS AS FOLLOWS:
²Disconnect BLACK cable clamp from engine
ground on disabled vehicle.
²When using a Booster vehicle, disconnect
BLACK cable clamp from battery negative terminal.
Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery positive
terminal.
²Disconnect RED cable clamp from battery posi-
tive terminal on disabled vehicle.
DRLUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE 0 - 13

SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - 4X2
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Support the lower control arm outboard end.
(3) Remove the upper shock absorber nut, retainer
and grommet.
(4) Remove the lower nuts and remove the shock
absorber.
REMOVAL - 4X4
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Support the lower control arm outboard end.
(4) Remove the upper shock nut and with the insu-
lator and retainer (Fig. 27).
(5) Remove the lower shock bolt (Fig. 27).
(6) Remove the shock
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4X2
NOTE: Upper shock nut must be replaced or use
Mopar Lock 'N Seal or LoctiteT242 on existing nut.(1) Install the lower retainer and grommet on the
shock absorber stud. Insert the shock absorber
through the frame bracket hole.
(2) Install the lower nuts and tighten the nuts to
34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper grommet, retainer and new
nut or use Mopar Lock 'N Seal or Loctitet242 on
existing nut, on the shock absorber stud. Tighten nut
to 54 N´m (40 ft. lbs.).
(4) Remove the support from the lower control arm
outboard end.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 4X4
(1) Install the upper part of the shock into the
frame bracket with the insulators and retainers (Fig.
27).
(2) Install the nut and Tighten to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Install the lower part of the shock into the
lower control arm and Tighten the bolt to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 27).
(4) Remove the support from the lower control arm
outboard end.
(5) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(6) Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
Fig. 27 SHOCK 4X4
1 - INSULATOR & RETAINER
2 - NUT
3 - SHOCK ABSORBER
4 - BOLT
DRFRONT - INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION 2 - 23

LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Paint or scribe alignment marks on the cam
adjusters and suspension arm for installation refer-
ence (Fig. 17).
(3) Remove the lower suspension arm nut, cam
and cam bolt from the axle.
(4) Remove the nut and bolt from the frame rail
bracket and remove the lower suspension arm (Fig.
17).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower suspension arm at the axle
bracket and frame rail bracket.
(2) Install the rear bolt and finger tighten the nut.
(3) Install the cam bolt, cam and nut in the axle
and align the reference marks.
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Tighten cam nut at the axle bracket to 217
N´m (160 ft. lbs.). Tighten rear nut at the frame
bracket to 217 N´m (160 ft. lbs.).
SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut, retainer and grommet from
the upper stud in the engine compartment.
(2) Remove three nuts from the upper shock
bracket (Fig. 18).
(3) Remove the lower bolt from the axle bracket
(Fig. 19). Remove the shock absorber from engine
compartment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower retainer and grommet on the
upper stud. Insert the shock absorber through the
spring from engine compartment.
(2) Install the lower bolt and tighten to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper shock bracket and three nuts.
Tighten nuts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install upper grommet and retainer. Install
upper shock nut and tighten to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs).
Fig. 17 Adjustment Cam
1 - ADJUSTMENT CAM
2 - AXLE BRACKET
3 - BRACKET REINFORCEMENT
4 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 35

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................38
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................38
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................39
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
AUXILIARY SPRING BUMPERS (3500)
REMOVAL.............................40INSTALLATION.........................40
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
SPRING
DESCRIPTION.........................41
OPERATION...........................41
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................41
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................42
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Stabilizer Bar (optional)
²Leaf Springs
²Auxiliary Leaf Spring (3500 series)
²Auxiliary Spring Bumpers (3500 series)
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
2 - 38 REARDR

DRIVELINE VIBRATION
Drive Condition Possible Cause Correction
Propeller Shaft Noise 1) Undercoating or other foreign
material on shaft.1) Clean exterior of shaft and wash
with solvent.
2) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 2) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
3) Loose or bent U-joint yoke or
excessive runout.3) Install new yoke.
4) Incorrect driveline angularity. 4) Measure and correct driveline
angles.
5) Rear spring center bolt not in
seat.5) Loosen spring u-bolts and seat
center bolt.
6) Worn U-joint bearings. 6) Install new U-joint.
7) Propeller shaft damaged or out
of balance.7) Installl new propeller shaft.
8) Broken rear spring. 8) Install new rear spring.
9) Excessive runout or unbalanced
condition.9) Re-index propeller shaft, test,
and evaluate.
10) Excessive drive pinion gear
shaft runout.10) Re-index propeller shaft and
evaluate.
11) Excessive axle yoke deflection. 11) Inspect and replace yoke if
necessary.
12) Excessive transfer case runout. 12) Inspect and repair as necessary.
Universal Joint Noise 1) Loose U-joint clamp screws. 1) Install new clamps and screws
and tighten to proper torque.
2) Lack of lubrication. 2) Replace as U-joints as
necessary.
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCE
NOTE: Removing and re-indexing the propeller
shaft 180É relative to the yoke may eliminate some
vibrations.
If propeller shaft is suspected of being unbalanced,
it can be verified with the following procedure:
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Clean all the foreign material from the propel-
ler shaft and the universal joints.
(3) Inspect the propeller shaft for missing balance
weights, broken welds, and bent areas.If the pro-
peller shaft is bent, it must be replaced.
(4) Inspect the universal joints to ensure that they
are not worn, are properly installed, and are cor-
rectly aligned with the shaft.
(5) Check the universal joint clamp screws torque.
(6) Remove the wheels and tires. Install the wheel
lug nuts to retain the brake drums or rotors.
(7) Mark and number the shaft six inches from the
yoke end at four positions 90É apart.(8) Run and accelerate the vehicle until vibration
occurs. Note the intensity and speed the vibration
occurred. Stop the engine.
(9) Install a screw clamp at position 1 (Fig. 1).
(10) Start the engine and re-check for vibration. If
there is little or no change in vibration, move the
clamp to one of the other three positions. Repeat the
vibration test.
(11) If there is no difference in vibration at the
other positions, the source of the vibration may not
be propeller shaft.
(12) If the vibration decreased, install a second
clamp (Fig. 2) and repeat the test.
(13) If the additional clamp causes an additional
vibration, separate the clamps (1/2 inch above and
below the mark). Repeat the vibration test (Fig. 3).
(14) Increase distance between the clamp screws
and repeat the test until the amount of vibration is
at the lowest level. Bend the slack end of the clamps
so the screws will not loosen.
3 - 2 PROPELLER SHAFTDR
PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Slide the slip yoke onto the transmission/trans-
fer case output shaft.
(2) Align and install center bearing on crossmem-
ber, if necessary and tighten nutts to 54 N´m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(3) Align reference marks on the propeller shaft
yoke and pinion companion flange (Fig. 13).
(4) Tighten pinion companion flange bolts to 115
N´m (85 ft. lbs.).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
CENTER BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove rear propeller shaft.
(2) Mark the two shafts (Fig. 14) for installation
reference.
(3) Remove slip joint boot clamp and separate the
two shafts.
(4) Use hammer and punch to tap slinger away
from shaft to provide room for bearing splitter.
(5) Position Bearing Splitter Tool 1130 between
slinger and shaft.
CAUTION: Do not damage shaft spline during
removal of center bearing.
(6) Set shaft in press and press bearing off the
shaft.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Two types of center bearings are used and
are not interchangeable. Install the same type as
the vehicle was built with.
(1) Install new slinger on shaft and drive into posi-
tion with appropriate installer tool.
(2) Install new center bearing on shaft with Bear-
ing Installer Tool 6052. Drive on shaft with hammer
until bearing is seated.
(3) Clean shaft splines and apply a coat of multi-
purpose grease.
(4) Align master splines and slide front and rear
half-shafts together. Reposition slip yoke boot and
install new clamp.
(5) Install propeller shaft in vehicle.
ADJUSTMENTS
CENTER BEARING
Launch shudder is a vibration that occurs at first
acceleration from a stop. Shudder vibration usually
peaks at the engines highest torque output. Shudder
is a symptom associated with vehicles using a two-
piece propeller shaft. To decrease shudder, lower the
center bearing in 1/8 inch increments. Use shim
stock or fabricated plates. Plate stock must be used
to maintain compression of the rubber insulator
around the bearing. Do not use washers. Replace the
original bolts with the appropriate increased length
bolts.
Fig. 13 REAR PROPELLER SHAFT
1 - COMPANION FLANGE
2 - PROPELLER SHAFT
Fig. 14 REFERENCE MARKS
1 - REFERENCE MARK
2 - CENTER BEARING
3 - BOOT CLAMP
4 - DUST BOOT
3 - 8 PROPELLER SHAFTDR
REAR PROPELLER SHAFT (Continued)

FRONT AXLE - C205F
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
FRONT AXLE - C205F
DESCRIPTION.........................18
OPERATION...........................18
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING................18
REMOVAL.............................21
INSTALLATION.........................21
ADJUSTMENTS........................21
SPECIFICATIONS.......................29
SPECIAL TOOLS.......................30
AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL.............................33
INSTALLATION.........................33
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL.............................33
INSTALLATION.........................33
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL.............................33INSTALLATION.........................34
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL.............................34
INSTALLATION.........................35
DIFFERENTIAL
DESCRIPTION.........................36
OPERATION...........................36
REMOVAL.............................36
DISASSEMBLY.........................37
ASSEMBLY............................38
INSTALLATION.........................38
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................42
FRONT AXLE - C205F
DESCRIPTION
The axle consists of an alumunum center section
with an axle tube extending from one side. The tube
is pressed into the differential housing. The power is
transferred from the axle through two constant veloc-
ity (C/V) drive shafts to the wheel hubs. The drive
shafts are identical and interchangeable.
OPERATION
The axle receives power from the propeller shaft.
The propeller shaft is connected to the pinion gear
which rotates the differential through the gear mesh
with the ring gear bolted to the differential case. The
engine power is transmitted to the axle shafts
through the pinion mate and side gears. The side
gears are splined to the axle shafts.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
GEAR NOISE
Axle gear noise can be caused by insufficient lubri-
cant, incorrect backlash, tooth contact, worn/damaged
gears or the carrier housing not having the proper
offset and squareness.
Gear noise usually happens at a specific speed
range. The noise can also occur during a specific type
of driving condition. These conditions are accelera-
tion, deceleration, coast, or constant load.When road testing, first warm-up the axle fluid by
driving the vehicle at least 5 miles and then acceler-
ate the vehicle to the speed range where the noise is
the greatest. Shift out-of-gear and coast through the
peak-noise range. If the noise stops or changes
greatly:
²Check for insufficient lubricant.
²Incorrect ring gear backlash.
²Gear damage.
Differential side gears and pinions can be checked
by turning the vehicle. They usually do not cause
noise during straight-ahead driving when the gears
are unloaded. The side gears are loaded during vehi-
cle turns. A worn pinion mate shaft can also cause a
snapping or a knocking noise.
BEARING NOISE
The axle shaft, differential and pinion bearings can
all produce noise when worn or damaged. Bearing
noise can be either a whining, or a growling sound.
Pinion bearings have a constant-pitch noise. This
noise changes only with vehicle speed. Pinion bearing
noise will be higher pitched because it rotates at a
faster rate. Drive the vehicle and load the differen-
tial. If bearing noise occurs, the rear pinion bearing
is the source of the noise. If the bearing noise is
heard during a coast, the front pinion bearing is the
source.
Worn or damaged differential bearings usually pro-
duce a low pitch noise. Differential bearing noise is
similar to pinion bearing noise. The pitch of differen-
3 - 18 FRONT AXLE - C205FDR