2003 DODGE RAM oil pan

INTERNATIONAL VEHICLE
CONTROL & DISPLAY
SYMBOLS
DESCRIPTION - INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
The graphic symbols illustrated in the following
International Control and Display Symbols Chart are
used to identify various instrument controls. The
symbols correspond to the controls and displays that
are located on the instrument panel.
FASTENER IDENTIFICATION
DESCRIPTION
The SAE bolt strength grades range from grade 2
to grade 8. The higher the grade number, the greater
the bolt strength. Identification is determined by the
line marks on the top of each bolt head. The actual
bolt strength grade corresponds to the number of line
marks plus 2. The most commonly used metric bolt
strength classes are 9.8 and 10.9. The metric
strength class identification number is imprinted on
the head of the bolt. The higher the class number,
the greater the bolt strength. Some metric nuts are
imprinted with a single-digit strength class on the
nut face. Refer to the Fastener Identification and
Fastener Strength Charts (Fig. 6) and (Fig. 7).
INTERNATIONAL SYMBOLS
1 High Beam 13 Rear Window Washer
2 Fog Lamps 14 Fuel
3 Headlamp, Parking Lamps, Panel Lamps 15 Engine Coolant Temperature
4 Turn Warning 16 Battery Charging Condition
5 Hazard Warning 17 Engine Oil
6 Windshield Washer 18 Seat Belt
7 Windshield Wiper 19 Brake Failure
8 Windshield Wiper and Washer 20 Parking Brake
9 Windscreen Demisting and Defrosting 21 Front Hood
10 Ventilating Fan 22 Rear hood (Decklid)
11 Rear Window Defogger 23 Horn
12 Rear Window Wiper 24 Lighter
6 INTRODUCTIONDR

HOISTING
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HOISTING
Refer to the Owner's Manual for emergency vehicle
lifting procedures.
WARNING: THE HOISTING AND JACK LIFTING
POINTS PROVIDED ARE FOR A COMPLETE VEHI-
CLE. WHEN A CHASSIS OR DRIVETRAIN COMPO-
NENT IS REMOVED FROM A VEHICLE, THE
CENTER OF GRAVITY IS ALTERED MAKING SOME
HOISTING CONDITIONS UNSTABLE. PROPERLY
SUPPORT (Fig. 5) OR SECURE VEHICLE TO HOIST-
ING DEVICE WHEN THESE CONDITIONS EXIST.
FLOOR JACK
When properly positioned, a floor jack can be used
to lift a vehicle (Fig. 6). Support the vehicle in the
raised position with jack stands at the front and rear
ends of the frame rails (Fig. 5).
CAUTION: Do not lift vehicle with a floor jack posi-
tioned under:
²An axle tube.
²A body side sill.
²A steering linkage component.²A drive shaft.
²The engine or transmission oil pan.
²The fuel tank.
²A front suspension arm.
NOTE: Use the correct frame rail lifting locations
only (Fig. 7) and (Fig. 8).
HOIST
A vehicle can be lifted with:
²A single-post, frame-contact hoist.
²A twin-post, chassis hoist.
²A ramp-type, drive-on hoist.
NOTE: When a frame-contact type hoist is used,
verify that the lifting pads are positioned properly
(Fig. 6). The forward lifting pads should be posi-
tioned against the forward flange of the transmis-
sion crossmember brackets at the bottom of the
frame rail (Fig. 7). The real lifting pads should be
wedged between the forward flange of the leaf
spring bracket and the frame rail (Fig. 8). Safety
stands should be placed under the frame rails at
the front and rear ends (Fig. 5).
Fig. 5 Safety Stands
1 - SAFETY STANDS
Fig. 6 Vehicle Lifting Locations
0 - 14 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEDR

A towed vehicle should be raised until lifted wheels
are a minimum 100 mm (4 in) from the ground. Be
sure there is adequate ground clearance at the oppo-
site end of the vehicle, especially when towing over
rough terrain or steep rises in the road. If necessary,
remove the wheels from the lifted end of the vehicle
and lower the vehicle closer to the ground, to
increase the ground clearance at the opposite end of
the vehicle. Install lug nuts on wheel attaching studs
to retain brake drums or rotors.
RAMP ANGLE
If a vehicle with flat-bed towing equipment is used,
the approach ramp angle should not exceed 15
degrees.
TOWING WHEN KEYS ARE NOT AVAILABLE
When the vehicle is locked and keys are not avail-
able, use a flat bed hauler. A Wheel-lift or Sling-type
device can be used on 4WD vehicles providedall the
wheels are lifted off the ground using tow dol-
lies.
FOUR-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLE TOWING
Chrysler Corporation recommends that a vehicle be
transported on a flat-bed device. A Wheel-lift or
Sling-type device can be used providedall the
wheels are lifted off the ground using tow dol-
lies.
WARNING: WHEN TOWING A DISABLED VEHICLE
AND THE DRIVE WHEELS ARE SECURED IN A
WHEEL LIFT OR TOW DOLLIES, ENSURE THE
TRANSMISSION IS IN THE PARK POSITION (AUTO-
MATIC TRANSMISSION) OR A FORWARD DRIVE
GEAR (MANUAL TRANSMISSION).
CAUTION: Many vehicles are equipped with air
dams, spoilers, and/or ground effect panels. To
avoid component damage, a wheel-lift towing vehi-
cle or a flat-bed hauling vehicle is recommended.
0 - 16 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCEDR
TOWING (Continued)

PINION GEAR/RING GEAR
REMOVAL
NOTE: The ring gear and pinion are serviced in a
matched set. Never replace one without replacing
the other.
(1) Remove differential from housing.
(2) Place differential case in a vise with soft jaw
(Fig. 46).
(3) Remove bolts holding ring gear to differential
case.
(4) Drive ring gear from differential case with a
soft hammer (Fig. 46).
(5) Mark the companion yoke and companion
flange for installation reference.
(6) Remove companion flange bolts and tie the pro-
peller shaft to the vehicle underbody.
(7) Rotate companion flange three or four times
and verify flange rotates smoothly.
(8) Record pinion rotating torque an inch pound
torque wrench for installation reference (Fig. 47).
(9) Install bolts into two of the threaded holes in
the companion flange 180É apart.
(10) Position Holder 6719 against the companion
flange and install a bolt and washer into one of the
remaining threaded holes. Tighten the bolts so that
the Holder 6719 is held to the flange.
(11) Remove the pinion nut.
(12) Remove the companion flange with Remover
C-452 (Fig. 48).
(13) Remove pinion from differential housing.
(14) Remove pinion seal with a pry tool or a slide
hammer mounted screw.(15) Remove oil slinger, if equipped and front pin-
ion bearing.
(16) Remove front pinion bearing cup with
Remover 8831 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 49).
(17) Remove rear pinion bearing cup from housing
(Fig. 50) with Remover 8401 and Handle C-4171.
Fig. 46 RING GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - RING GEAR
3 - RAWHIDE HAMMER
Fig. 47 PINION ROTATING TORQUE
1 - PINION COMPANION FLANGE
2 - TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 48 COMPANION FLANGE REMOVER
1 - COMPANION FLANGE
2 - PULLER TOOL
3 - 40 FRONT AXLE - C205FDR

ASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the same gears and thrust washers are
being used, install them into their orignial locations.
(1) Lubricate all differential components with axle
lubricant.
(2) Install differential side gears and thrust wash-
ers (Fig. 36).
(3) Rotate the one pinion gear with thrust washer
into the differential case (Fig. 37). Then rotate the
other pinion gear with thrust washer into the differ-
ential case.(4) Align hole in the pinion gears with hole in the
differential case.
(5) Install pinion shaft.
(6) Installnewpinion shaft lock bolt and tighten
to 52 N´m (38 ft. lbs.).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.
CAUTION: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or
gasoline for cleaning.
(2) Lubricate differential case bearing.
(3) Install differential case with bearings cups into
the housing.
(4) Install bearing caps and bolts (Fig. 38). Tighten
the bearing cap bolts finger-tight.
NOTE: Do not torque bearing cap and bolts at this
time.
(5) Slide differential case toward the pinion gear
until the gears make contact/zero backlash. If zero
backlash cannot be obtained, turn the pinion side
adjuster until zero backlash is obtained.
(6) Holding the differential case toward the pinion
gear, turn bearing adjusters with Spanner Wrench
8883 until they make contact with the differential
bearings/cups.
Fig. 36 SIDE GEARS
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEAR
Fig. 37 PINION GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEARS
3 - PINION GEAR
Fig. 38 CASE BEARING CAP
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - ADJUSTER
DRFRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA 3 - 63
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(4) Install the other pinion gear and thrust
washer. Rotate the gears to align hole in the pinion
gears with hole in the differential case.
(5) Slide pinion shaft into the case and through
the pinion gears. Tap the shaft to seat the pinion
shaft snap-ring into the case (Fig. 35).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.
CAUTION: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or
gasoline for cleaning.
(2) Lubricate differential case bearing.
(3) Install differential case with bearings cups into
the housing.
NOTE: A light coat of grease on the cups will hold
them in place during installation.
(4) Install bearing caps and bolts (Fig. 36). Tighten
the bearing cap bolts finger-tight.
NOTE: Do not torque bearing cap and bolts at this
time.
(5) Slide differential case toward the pinion gear
until the gears make contact/zero backlash. If zero
backlash cannot be obtained, turn the pinion side
adjuster until zero backlash is obtained.
(6) Holding the differential case toward the pinion
gear, turn bearing adjusters with Spanner Wrench
8883 until they make contact with the differential
bearings/cups.
(7) Back off the ring gear side adjuster 4 holes, to
obtain initial ring gear backlash.
Fig. 34 PINION GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEARS
3 - PINION GEAR
Fig. 35 PINION SHAFT INSTALLATION
1 - PINION SHAFT SNAP-RING
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 36 CASE BEARING CAP
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - ADJUSTER
DRREAR AXLE - 10 1/2 AA 3 - 117
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(3) Install first pinion gear into the differential
window and side gears. Rotate the pinion gear to the
back of the case (Fig. 34).
(4) Install the other pinion gear and thrust
washer. Rotate the gears to align hole in the pinion
gears with hole in the differential case.
(5) Slide pinion shaft into the case and through
the pinion gears. Tap the shaft to seat the pinion
shaft snap-ring into the case (Fig. 35).
(6) Install ring gear.INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.
CAUTION: Do not use water, steam, kerosene or
gasoline for cleaning.
(2) Lubricate differential case bearing.
(3) Install differential case with bearings cups into
the housing.
NOTE: A light coat of grease on the cups will hold
them in place during installation.
(4) Install bearing caps and bolts (Fig. 36). Tighten
the bearing cap bolts finger-tight.
NOTE: Do not torque bearing cap and bolts at this
time.
(5) Slide differential case toward the pinion gear
until the gears make contact/zero backlash. If zero
backlash cannot be obtained, turn the pinion side
adjuster until zero backlash is obtained.
(6) Holding the differential case toward the pinion
gear, turn bearing adjusters with Spanner Wrench
8883 until they make contact with the differential
bearings/cups.
(7) Back off the ring gear side adjuster 4 holes, to
obtain initial ring gear backlash.
Fig. 34 PINION GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL WINDOW
2 - SIDE GEARS
3 - PINION GEAR
Fig. 35 PINION SHAFT INSTALLATION
1 - SNAP RING
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - PINION GEAR
4 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 36 CASE BEARING CAP
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - BEARING CAP
3 - ADJUSTER
3 - 144 REAR AXLE - 11 1/2 AADR
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that hasbecome covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEDR
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)