2003 DODGE RAM oil type

LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Paint or scribe alignment marks on the cam
adjusters and suspension arm for installation refer-
ence (Fig. 17).
(3) Remove the lower suspension arm nut, cam
and cam bolt from the axle.
(4) Remove the nut and bolt from the frame rail
bracket and remove the lower suspension arm (Fig.
17).
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower suspension arm at the axle
bracket and frame rail bracket.
(2) Install the rear bolt and finger tighten the nut.
(3) Install the cam bolt, cam and nut in the axle
and align the reference marks.
(4) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
(5) Tighten cam nut at the axle bracket to 217
N´m (160 ft. lbs.). Tighten rear nut at the frame
bracket to 217 N´m (160 ft. lbs.).
SHOCK
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The shock absorber bushings do not require any
type of lubrication. Do not attempt to stop bushing
noise by lubricating them. Grease and mineral oil-
base lubricants will deteriorate the bushing.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the nut, retainer and grommet from
the upper stud in the engine compartment.
(2) Remove three nuts from the upper shock
bracket (Fig. 18).
(3) Remove the lower bolt from the axle bracket
(Fig. 19). Remove the shock absorber from engine
compartment.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the lower retainer and grommet on the
upper stud. Insert the shock absorber through the
spring from engine compartment.
(2) Install the lower bolt and tighten to 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.).
(3) Install the upper shock bracket and three nuts.
Tighten nuts to 75 N´m (55 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install upper grommet and retainer. Install
upper shock nut and tighten to 47 N´m (35 ft. lbs).
Fig. 17 Adjustment Cam
1 - ADJUSTMENT CAM
2 - AXLE BRACKET
3 - BRACKET REINFORCEMENT
4 - LOWER SUSPENSION ARM
DRFRONT - LINK/COIL 2 - 35

REAR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
REAR
DESCRIPTION.........................38
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK.............................38
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE CHART......................39
BUSHINGS
REMOVAL.............................39
INSTALLATION.........................39
JOUNCE BUMPER
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
AUXILIARY SPRING BUMPERS (3500)
REMOVAL.............................40INSTALLATION.........................40
SHOCK
REMOVAL.............................40
INSTALLATION.........................40
SPRING
DESCRIPTION.........................41
OPERATION...........................41
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................41
SPRING TIP INSERTS
REMOVAL.............................41
INSTALLATION.........................42
REAR
DESCRIPTION
The rear suspension is comprised of:
²Shock Absorbers
²Jounce Bumpers
²Stabilizer Bar (optional)
²Leaf Springs
²Auxiliary Leaf Spring (3500 series)
²Auxiliary Spring Bumpers (3500 series)
²Drive Axle
CAUTION: A vehicle should always be loaded so
the vehicle weight center-line is located immedi-
ately forward of the rear axle. Correct vehicle load-
ing provides proper front tire-to-road contact. This
results in maximum vehicle handling stability and
safety. Incorrect vehicle weight distribution can
cause excessive tire tread wear, spring fatigue or
failure, and erratic steering.
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber/ure-
thane bushings (except stabilizer bar) should be
tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is
important to have the springs supporting the weight
of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - SPRING AND
SHOCK
A knocking or rattling noise from a shock absorber
may be caused by movement between mounting
bushings and metal brackets or attaching compo-
nents. These noises can usually be stopped by tight-
ening the attaching nuts. If the noise persists,
inspect for damaged and worn bushings, and attach-
ing components. Repair as necessary if any of these
conditions exist.
A squeaking noise from the shock absorber may be
caused by the hydraulic valving and may be intermit-
tent. This condition is not repairable and the shock
absorber must be replaced.
The shock absorbers are not refillable or adjust-
able. If a malfunction occurs, the shock absorber
must be replaced. To test a shock absorber, hold it in
an upright position and force the piston in and out of
the cylinder four or five times. The action throughout
each stroke should be smooth and even.
The spring eye and shock absorber bushings do not
require any type of lubrication. Do not attempt to
stop spring bushing noise by lubricating them.
Grease and mineral oil-base lubricants will deterio-
rate the bushing rubber.
If the vehicle is used for severe, off-road operation,
the springs should be examined periodically. Check
for broken and shifted leafs, loose and missing clips,
and broken center bolts. Refer to Spring and Shock
Absorber Diagnosis chart for additional information.
2 - 38 REARDR

Condition Possible Causes Correction
Gear Teeth Broke 1. Overloading. 1. Replace gears. Examine other
gears and bearings for possible
damage.
2. Erratic clutch operation. 2. Replace gears and examine the
remaining parts for damage. Avoid
erratic clutch operation.
3. Ice-spotted pavement. 3. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage.
4. Improper adjustments. 4. Replace gears and examine
remaining parts for damage. Ensure
ring gear backlash is correct.
Axle Noise 1. Insufficient lubricant. 1. Fill differential with the correct
fluid type and quantity.
2. Improper ring gear and pinion
adjustment.2. Check ring gear and pinion
contact pattern.
3. Unmatched ring gear and pinion. 3. Replace gears with a matched
ring gear and pinion.
4. Worn teeth on ring gear and/or
pinion.4. Replace ring gear and pinion.
5. Loose pinion bearings. 5. Adjust pinion bearing pre-load.
6. Loose differential bearings. 6. Adjust differential bearing
pre-load.
7. Mis-aligned or sprung ring gear. 7. Measure ring gear run-out.
Replace components as necessary.
8. Loose differential bearing cap
bolts.8. Inspect differential components
and replace as necessary. Ensure
that the bearing caps are torqued
tot he proper specification.
9. Housing not machined properly. 9. Replace housing.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheels and tires.
(2) Remove brake calipers and rotors.
(3) Disconnect ABS wheel speed sensors.
(4) Disconnect axle vent hose.
(5) Remove front propeller shaft.
(6) Disconnect stabilizer bar links at the axle
brackets.
(7) Disconnect shock absorbers from axle brackets.
(8) Disconnect track bar from the axle bracket.
(9) Disconnect tie rod and drag link from the steer-
ing knuckles.
(10) Position suitable lifting device under the axle
assembly.
(11) Secure axle to lifting device.
(12) Mark suspension alignment cams for installa-
tion reference.
(13) Disconnect upper and lower suspension arms
from the axle bracket.(14) Lower the axle. The coil springs will drop
with the axle.
(15) Remove the coil springs from the axle bracket.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Suspension components with rubber
bushings should be tightened with the weight of the
vehicle on the suspension, at normal height. If
springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle
ride comfort could be affected and premature bush-
ing wear may occur. Rubber bushings must never
be lubricated.
(1) Support the axle on a suitable lifting device.
(2) Secure axle to lifting device.
(3) Position the axle under the vehicle.
(4) Install springs, retainer clip and bolts.
(5) Raise axle and align it with the spring pads.
3 - 48 FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AADR
FRONT AXLE - 9 1/4 AA (Continued)

(6) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge
(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/PARKING BRAKE/SHOES -
ADJUSTMENTS).
(7) Install the rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - INSTALLA-
TION).
(8) Install the caliper adapter (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the caliper (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HY-
DRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
- INSTALLATION).
(10) Install wheel and tire assembly.
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brakes hydraulic unit and all hydraulic
fluid hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
Always clean the master cylinder reservoir and
caps before checking fluid level. If not cleaned, dirt
could enter the fluid.
The fluid fill level is indicated on the side of the
master cylinder reservoir (Fig. 33).
The correct fluid level is to the MAX indicator on
the side of the reservoir. If necessary, add fluid to the
proper level.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications and SAE J1703 standards.
No other type of brake fluid is recommended or
approved for usage in the vehicle brake system. Use
only Mopar brake fluid or an equivalent from a
tightly sealed container.
CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
Fig. 32 CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT - REAR
1 - CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT
2 - AXLE TUBE
3 - MOUNTING STUDS
Fig. 33 FLUID LEVEL
1 - FLUID RESERVOIR
2 - MAX LEVEL MARK
5 - 18 BRAKES - BASEDR
DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER MOUNT (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE
READS HIGH OR THE
COOLANT WARNING LAMP
ILLUMINATES. COOLANT MAY
OR MAY NOT BE LOST OR
LEAKING FROM THE COOLING
SYSTEM1. Trailer is being towed, a steep
hill is being climbed, vehicle is
operated in slow moving traffic,
or engine is being idled with
very high ambient (outside)
temperatures and the air
conditioning is on. Higher
altitudes could aggravate these
conditions.1. This may be a temporary condition and
repair is not necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and attempt to drive the
vehicle without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge. The gauge should return to the
normal range. If the gauge does not return
to the normal range, determine the cause
for overheating and repair. Refer to
Possible Causes (2-18).
2. Is the temperature gauge
reading correctly?2. Check gauge. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT CLUSTER -
SCHEMATIC - ELECTRICAL). Repair as
necessary.
3. Is the temperature warning
illuminating unnecessarily?3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - SCHEMATIC -
ELECTRICAL).
4. Coolant low in coolant
reserve/overflow tank and
radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as
necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
5. Pressure cap not installed
tightly. If cap is loose, boiling
point of coolant will be lowered.
Also refer to the following Step
6.5. Tighten cap
6. Poor seals at the radiator
cap.6. (a) Check condition of cap and cap
seals. Refer to Radiator Cap. Replace cap
if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace
radiator (5.9L) or degas bottle (3.7L, 4.7L).
7. Coolant level low in radiator
but not in coolant reserve/
overflow tank. This means the
radiator is not drawing coolant
from the coolant reserve/
overflow tank as the engine
cools (5.9L).7. (a) Check condition of radiator cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator Cap in this
Group. Replace cap if necessary.
(b) Check condition of radiator filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace
radiator.
(c) Check condition of the hose from the
radiator to the coolant tank. It should fit
tight at both ends without any kinks or
tears. Replace hose if necessary.
(d) Check coolant reserve/overflow tank
and tanks hoses for blockage. Repair as
necessary.
8. Incorrect coolant
concentration8. Check coolant. (Refer to LUBRICATION
& MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
DESCRIPTION).
9. Coolant not flowing through
system9. Check for coolant flow at radiator filler
neck with some coolant removed, engine
warm and thermostat open. Coolant
should be observed flowing through
radiator. If flow is not observed, determine
area of obstruction and repair as
necessary.
7 - 12 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM THE COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter and the correct
width.
(3) Remove the hose clamps and hoses from radia-
tor.
(4) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank hose
from the radiator filler neck.
(5) Remove the coolant reserve/overflow tank
(5.9L) or the coolant degas container(3.7L/4.7L) from
the fan shroud (pull straight up). The tank slips into
slots on the fan shroud.
(6) Unclip the power steering hoses from the fan
shroud.
(7) Disconnect the electrical connectors at the
windshield washer reservoir tank and remove the
tank.
(8) Remove the fan shroud mounting bolts and pull
up and out of the radiator tank clips (Fig. 33). Posi-
tion shroud rearward over the fan blades towards
engine.
(9) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from
the transmission cooler, then plug the transmission
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
(10) Disconnect the power steering lines from the
power steering cooler, then plug the power steering
lines and cooler to prevent leakage.
(11) Remove the two radiator upper mounting
bolts (Fig. 34).
(12) Lift the radiator straight up and out of the
engine compartment. Take care not to damage cool-
ing fins or tubes on the radiator and oil coolers when
removing.
Fig. 32 Radiator Ð Typical
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
DRENGINE 7 - 57
RADIATOR (Continued)

(12) Install coolant reserve/overflow container or
degas container to fan shroud and tighten the bolts
to 8.5 N´m (75 in. lbs.).
(13) Connect upper radiator hose and install
clamp.
(14) Install battery negative cable.
(15) Fill cooling system with coolant (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Operate the engine until it reaches normal
operating temperature. Check cooling system fluid
levels.
RADIATOR - 5.9L DIESEL
DESCRIPTION
The radiator is a aluminum cross-flow design with
horizontal tubes through the radiator core and verti-
cal plastic side tanks (Fig. 35).
This radiator does not contain an internal trans-
mission oil cooler
OPERATION
The radiator supplies sufficient heat transfer using
the cooling fins interlaced between the horizontal
tubes in the radiator core to cool the engine.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐRADIATOR
COOLANT FLOW
Use the following procedure to determine if coolant
is flowing through the cooling system.
(1) Idle engine until operating temperature is
reached. If the upper radiator hose is warm to the
touch, the thermostat is opening and coolant is flow-
ing to the radiator.
WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING. USING A RAG TO
COVER THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP, OPEN
RADIATOR CAP SLOWLY TO THE FIRST STOP. THIS
WILL ALLOW ANY BUILT-UP PRESSURE TO VENT
TO THE RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. AFTER PRES-
SURE BUILD-UP HAS BEEN RELEASED, REMOVE
CAP FROM FILLER NECK.
(2) Drain a small amount of coolant from the radi-
ator until the ends of the radiator tubes are visible
through the filler neck. Idle the engine at normal
operating temperature. If coolant is flowing past the
exposed tubes, the coolant is circulating.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect both battery negative cables.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAINCOCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER
PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT
CAN OCCUR.
(2) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER
6094). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20)
MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS
WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CON-
STANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp
with a matching number or letter.
(3) Remove air box and turbocharger inlet tube.
(4) Remove coolant tank hose, washer bottle hose
and the positive battery cable from the fastening
clips located on top of the radiator.
(5) Remove hose clamps and hoses from radiator.
Fig. 35 Radiator Ð Typical
1 - SCREW
2 - SCREW
3 - LOWER MOUNT
4 - RADIATOR
5 - DRAINCOCK
6 -LOWER MOUNT
DRENGINE 7 - 59
RADIATOR (Continued)

GENERATOR
DESCRIPTION
The generator is belt-driven by the engine using a
serpentine type drive belt. It is serviced only as a
complete assembly. If the generator fails for any rea-
son, the entire assembly must be replaced.
OPERATION
As the energized rotor begins to rotate within the
generator, the spinning magnetic field induces a cur-
rent into the windings of the stator coil. Once the
generator begins producing sufficient current, it also
provides the current needed to energize the rotor.
The stator winding connections deliver the induced
alternating current to 3 positive and 3 negative
diodes for rectification. From the diodes, rectified
direct current is delivered to the vehicle electrical
system through the generator battery terminal.
Although the generators appear the same exter-
nally, different generators with different output rat-
ings are used on this vehicle. Be certain that the
replacement generator has the same output rating
and part number as the original unit. Refer to Gen-
erator Ratings in the Specifications section at the
back of this group for amperage ratings and part
numbers.
Noise emitting from the generator may be caused
by: worn, loose or defective bearings; a loose or defec-
tive drive pulley; incorrect, worn, damaged or misad-
justed fan drive belt; loose mounting bolts; a
misaligned drive pulley or a defective stator or diode.
REMOVAL
3.7L / 4.7L
WARNING: DISCONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE FROM
BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING BATTERY OUTPUT
WIRE (B+ WIRE) FROM GENERATOR. FAILURE TO
DO SO CAN RESULT IN INJURY OR DAMAGE TO
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
(2) Remove generator drive belt. Refer to 7, Cool-
ing System for procedure.
(3) Unsnap plastic insulator cap from B+ output
terminal (Fig. 2).
(4) Remove B+ terminal mounting nut at rear of
generator (Fig. 2). Disconnect terminal from genera-
tor.
(5) Disconnect field wire connector at rear of gen-
erator (Fig. 2) by pushing on connector tab.
(6) Remove 1 rear vertical generator mounting bolt
(Fig. 3).(7) Remove 2 front horizontal generator mounting
bolts (Fig. 3).
(8) Remove generator from vehicle.
Fig. 2 GENERATOR CONNECTORS - 3.7L / 4.7L
1 - GENERATOR
2-B+NUT
3 - PLASTIC INSULATOR CAP
4 - FIELD WIRE CONNECTOR
Fig. 3 REMOVE / INSTALL GENERATOR - 3.7L / 4.7L
1 - LOWER BOLTS
2 - REAR BOLT
3 - GENERATOR
8F - 22 CHARGINGDR