2003 DODGE RAM lock

NOTE:Maximum acceptable face runout is 0.010 inch.
To correct this example (Fig. 13) the shims needed
between the clutch housing and transmission are:
²0.009 in. at the 0.000 corner
²0.012 in. at the ±0.003 corner
²0.013 in. at the ±0.004 corner
After installing the clutch assembly and housing,
tighten the housing bolts nearest the alignment dow-
els first.
NOTE: Shims can be made from shim stock or sim-
ilar materials of the required thickness (Fig. 14).
REMOVAL
(1)Remove transmission and transfer case (Fig. 15).
(2) Remove the starter from the clutch housing.
(3) Remove clutch housing bolts and remove hous-
ing from the engine.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean housing mounting surface of engine
block with wax and grease remover.
(2) Verify that clutch housing alignment dowels
are in good condition and properly seated.
(3) Transfer slave cylinder, release fork and boot,
fork pivot stud and wire/hose brackets to new hous-
ing.
(4) Align and install clutch housing on transmis-
sion (Fig. 16). Tighten housing bolts closest to align-
ment dowels first and to the following torque values:
²1/4in. diameter ªAº bolts - 4.5 N´m (40 in.lb.).
²3/8in. diameter ªAº bolts - 47.5 N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²7/16in. diameter ªAº bolts - 68 N´m (50 ft.lb.).
²ªBº bolts for 5.9L TD/8.0L applications - 47.5
N´m (35 ft.lb.).
²ªCº bolts for 5.9L TD applications - 47.5 N´m (35
ft.lb.).²ªCº bolts for 8.0L applications - 74.5 N´m (55
ft.lb.).
(5) Install the starter to the clutch housing.
Fig. 14 ALIGNMENT SHIMS
1 - CUT/DRILL BOLT HOLE TO SIZE
2 - SHIM STOCK
3 - MAKE SHIM 1-INCH DIAMETER
Fig. 15 TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH HOUSING-NV4500
1 - CLUTCH HOUSING
2 - TRANSMISSION
Fig. 16 CLUTCH HOUSING INSTALLATION-NV4500
1 - ENGINE BLOCK
2 - CLUTCH DISC AND COVER
3 - CLUTCH HOUSING
4 - DUST COVER
6 - 10 CLUTCHDR
CLUTCH HOUSING (Continued)

bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove pressure plate and clutch.
(3) Remove flywheel bolts and remove flywheel.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended repair. In cases where a new fly-
wheel is not readily available, (V10/Diesel Engine
only) a replacement ring gear can be installed. The
following procedure must be observed to avoid
damaging the flywheel and replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2) Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press
plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install flywheel on the crank shaft.
(2) Install flywheel bolts and tighten to 95 N´m (70
ft. lbs.).
(3) Install clutch.
(4) Install transmission.
PILOT BEARING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission.
(2) Remove clutch disc.
(3) Use a suitable blind hole puller to remove pilot
bearing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 19). Drive bearing into place with the letter side
of the bearing facing the transmission. Bearing
should be flush with edge of bearing bore.
CAUTION: Do not allow bearing to become cocked
and do not recess bearing.
6 - 12 CLUTCHDR
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

(3) Install clutch disc, pressure plate and trans-
mission.
LINKAGE
REMOVAL
CAUTION: The hydraulic linkage has a quick dis-
connect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
never be disconnected or tampered with. Once the
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should never be disconnected.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 20).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove plastic clip securing the hydraulic line
to the dash panel from the lower dash panel flange.
(5) Remove plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel from the upper dash panel stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires
(Fig. 21).
(8) Remove clutch master cylinder rod pin.
(9) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder reser-
voir is tight. This will avoid spillage during removal.
(10) Remove clutch master cylinder nuts holding
the to the dash panel.(11) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position cylinders and connecting line in vehi-
cle engine compartment. Position clutch hydraulic
line against the dash panel and behind all engine
hoses and wiring.
(2) Apply a light coating of grease to the inside
diameter of the master cylinder push rod eye.
(3) Install clutch master cylinder on dash panel
and tighten clutch master cylinder nuts to 28 N´m
(21 ft. lbs.).
(4) Install clutch master cylinder push rod pin.
(5) Connect clutch pedal position interlock switch
wires.
Fig. 19 PILOT BEARING
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
Fig. 20 SLAVE CYLINDER
1 - MOUNTING NUTS
2 - SLAVE CYLINDER
Fig. 21 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
1 - MASTER CYLINDER
2 - INTERLOCK CONNECTOR
3 - ROD PIN
DRCLUTCH 6 - 13
PILOT BEARING (Continued)

(6) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel into the lower dash panel flange.
(7) Install plastic clip securing hydraulic line to
the dash panel onto the upper dash panel stud.
(8) Raise vehicle.
(9) Install slave cylinder and verify cylinder rod is
properly seated in release lever.
(10) Install and tighten slave cylinder nuts to 23
N´m (17 ft. lbs.).
(11) Ifnewclutch linkage is being installed, con-
nect the clutch hydraulic line to the clutch slave cyl-
inder.
CAUTION: Once the clutch hydraulic line is con-
nected to the slave cylinder, it should never be dis-
connected.
(12) Lower vehicle.
(13) Operate linkage several times to verify proper
operation.
CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
A clutch pedal position (interlock) switch is
mounted on the clutch master cylinder push rod (Fig.
22). The switch is actuated by clutch pedal move-
ment.
OPERATION
The clutch pedal position switch is used to prevent
starter motor engagement unless the clutch pedal is
depressed.
An input from this switch is also used to either
shut down and/or prevent operation of the speed con-
trol system when the clutch pedal is depressed.
The position switch is an integral part of the clutch
master cylinder push rod and is not serviced sepa-
rately.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
(1) Locate clutch switch 2-wire electrical connector.
This will be the test point. This connector is attached
to pedal support bracket located under instrument
panel to left of clutch pedal (Fig. 23). Disconnect wir-
ing at this point.
(2) Check for switch continuity with an ohmmeter
while operating clutch pedal up and down. Continu-
ity should be broken and reapplied each time pedal is
pressed.
(3) If continuity is not present, or is always
present at any pedal position, replace switch. Switch
is not serviced separately. Replace clutch master
cylinder.
Fig. 22 LOCATION, CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION
SWITCH
1 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
2 - CLUTCH PEDAL POSITION SWITCH
Fig. 23 CLUTCH SWITCH TEST POINT
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT BRACKET
2 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
6 - 14 CLUTCHDR
LINKAGE (Continued)

DESCRIPTIONÐCOOLING SYSTEM FLOW -
5.9L DIESEL
The diesel engine cooling system consists of :
²Cross-flow radiator
²Belt driven water pump
²Belt driven mechanical cooling fan
²Electronic viscous fan drive
²Fan shroud
²Radiator pressure cap²Vertically mounted thermostat
²Coolant reserve/recovery system
²Transmission oil cooler
²Coolant
Coolant flow circuits for the 5.9L diesel engine are
shown in (Fig. 3).
Fig. 1 Engine Cooling System Flow - 3.7L/4.7L
1 - LH CYL. HEAD
2 - BLEED
3 - THERMOSTAT LOCATION
4 - RH CYL. HEAD
5 - RH BANK CYL. BLOCK6 - LH BANK CYL. BLOCK
7 - COOLANT TEMP. SENSOR
8 - FROM HEATER CORE
9 - TO HEATER CORE
7 - 2 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt
and solder residue. Inspect the radiator-to- reserve/
overflow tank hose for internal obstructions. Insert a
wire through the hose to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside of the filler neck.
If the cams are damaged, seating of the pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected.
Attach pressure tester (7700 or an equivalent) to
radiator filler neck.
Operate the tester pump to apply 103.4 kPa (15
psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge
excessively or bulges while testing, replace as neces-
sary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the
condition of the cooling system according to following
criteria:
Holds Steady:If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, serious coolant leaks are not present in
system. However, there could be an internal leak
that does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. If it is certain that coolant is being lost and
leaks cannot be detected, inspect for interior leakage
or perform Internal Leakage Test. Refer to INTER-
NAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION.
Drops Slowly:Indicates a small leak or seepage
is occurring. Examine all of the connections for seep-
age or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the
radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal the
small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant (or equiva-
lent). Repair the leak holes and inspect the system
again with pressure applied.Drops Quickly:Indicates that serious leakage is
occurring. Examine the system for external leakage.
If leaks are not visible, inspect for internal leakage.
Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a
reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. If coolant is present in
the pan, it will drain first because it is heavier than
oil. An alternative method is to operate engine for a
short period to churn the oil. After this is done,
remove the engine dipstick and inspect for water
globules. Also inspect the transmission dipstick for
water globules and transmission fluid cooler for leak-
age.
WARNING: WITH RADIATOR PRESSURE TESTER
TOOL INSTALLED ON RADIATOR, DO NOT ALLOW
PRESSURE TO EXCEED 145 kPa (21 PSI). PRES-
SURE WILL BUILD UP QUICKLY IF A COMBUSTION
LEAK IS PRESENT. TO RELEASE PRESSURE,
ROCK TESTER FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN
REMOVING TESTER, DO NOT TURN TESTER MORE
THAN 1/2 TURN IF SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
Operate the engine without the pressure cap on
the radiator until the thermostat opens. Attach a
Pressure Tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds
up quickly it indicates a combustion leak exists. This
is usually the result of a cylinder head gasket leak or
crack in engine. Repair as necessary.
If there is not an immediate pressure increase,
pump the Pressure Tester. Do this until indicated
pressure is within system range of 110 kPa (16 psi).
Fluctuation of the gauge pointer indicates compres-
sion or combustion leakage into cooling system.
Because the vehicle is equipped with a catalytic
converter,do notshort out cylinders to isolate com-
pression leak.
If the needle on dial of the pressure tester does not
fluctuate, race engine a few times to check for an
abnormal amount of coolant or steam. This would be
emitting from exhaust pipe. Coolant or steam from
exhaust pipe may indicate a faulty cylinder head gas-
ket, cracked engine cylinder block or cylinder head.
A convenient check for exhaust gas leakage into
cooling system is provided by a commercially avail-
able Block Leak Check tool. Follow manufacturers
instructions when using this product.
COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TESTÐWITHOUT
PRESSURE TESTER
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution
is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for
reuse.
Fig. 5 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
1 - TYPICAL BLACK LIGHT TOOL
7 - 6 COOLINGDR
COOLING (Continued)

WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE CYLINDER BLOCK
DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN RADIATOR DRAIN-
COCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
Drain sufficient coolant to allow thermostat
removal. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE
COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL). Remove
accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCES-
SORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).
Add coolant to radiator to bring level to within 6.3
mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate
engine for an excessive period of time. Open drain-
cock immediately after test to eliminate boil over.
Start engine and accelerate rapidly three times, to
approximately 3000 rpm while observing coolant. If
internal engine combustion gases are leaking into
cooling system, bubbles will appear in coolant. If bub-
bles do not appear, internal combustion gas leakage
is not present.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
DIESEL ENGINE
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSISÐDIESEL ENGINE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOWNOTE:
Information on dash cluster is
displayed based on broadcast data
from ECM. DTC will be set for
engine sensor circuit concern.1. Vehicle is equipped with a heavy
duty cooling system.1. None. System operating normally.
2. Thermostat stuck open 2. Inspect and test thermostat.
3. Coolant level low. 3. Fill cooling system. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
4. Temperature gauge not
functioning correctly.4. Check cluster (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
DRCOOLING 7 - 7
COOLING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING
INCONSISTENT (ERRATIC,
CYCLES OR FLUCTUATES)NOTE:
Information on dash cluster is
displayed based on broadcast data
from ECM. DTC will be set for
engine sensor circuit concern.1. Heavy duty cooling system,
extreme cold ambient (outside)
temperature or heater blower motor
in high position.1. None. System operating normally.
2. Temperature gauge or sensor
defective.2. Check cluster or engine coolant
temp sensor (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT
CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Temporary heavy usage or load. 3. None. Normal condition.
4. Air trapped in cooling system. 4. Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
5. Water pump 5. Replace water pump.
6. Air leak on suction side of water
pump.6. Check for leak. (Refer to 7 -
COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
RADIATOR CAP LEAKING STEAM
AND /OR COOLANT INTO
RESERVOIR BOTTLE.
(TEMPERATURE GAUGE MAY
READ HIGH)1. Radiator cap defective. 1. Replace radiator cap.
2. Radiator neck surface damaged. 2. Replace radiator.
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE
WHEN ENGINE IS COOLING.1. Vacuum created in cooling
system on engine cool-down is not
being relieved through coolant
reservoir/overflow system.1. Replace radiator cap, check vent
hose between radiator and reservoir
bottle for blockage also check
reservoir bottle vent for blockage.
NOISY FAN 1. Fan blade(s) loose, damaged. 1. Replace fan blade assembly.
2. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive.2. None. Normal condition.
3. Fan blades striking surrounding
objects.3. Locate contact point and repair
as necessary.
4. Electronically controlled viscous
fan drive bearing.4. Check viscous fan (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
5. Electronically controlled viscous
fan stuck on5. Check viscous fan (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE
VISCOUS CLUTCH - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
6. Obstructed air flow through
radiator.6. Remove obstruction.
DRCOOLING 7 - 9
COOLING (Continued)