2002 JEEP LIBERTY Front suspension

(2) Remove the control arm from the vise.
(3) Install the lower control arm (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/LOWER CONTROL ARM -
INSTALLATION).
(4) Reset the vehicle ride height (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(5) Perform a wheel alignment (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
INSTALLATION - CLEVIS BRACKET BUSHING
NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used
on the threaded portions of the tool. This will
increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper
operation during the removal and installation pro-
cess.
(1) Install the new clevis bracket bushing into the
lower control arm using tools 8858-2 (driver), 8858-1
(receiver) and the bearing with the threaded rod
8839 (Fig. 5) making sure to properly orient the
bushing in the control.
(2) Install the clevis bracket (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/CLEVIS BRACKET - INSTALLA-
TION).
INSTALLATION - UPPER CONTROL ARM
BUSHINGS
NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used
on the threaded portions of the tool. This will
increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper
operation during the removal and installation pro-
cess.
(1) Install the new upper control arm bushings
into the upper control arm using tools 8830-3, 8830-1
and 8830-2 the bearing with the threaded rod 8838
(Fig. 6) making sure to properly orient the bushing in
the control arm.
(2) Remove the control arm from the vise.
(3) Install the upper control arm (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/UPPER CONTROL ARM -
INSTALLATION).
(4) Reset the vehicle ride height (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(5) Perform a wheel alignment (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 5 CLEVIS BRACKET BUSHING
1 - 8858-2 DRIVER
2 - 8858-1 RECEIVER
3 - 8839 THREADED RODFig. 6 UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHING -
INSTALLATION
1 - 8830-3
2 - 8830-1
3 - BUSHING
4 - 8830-2
5 - 8838
2s - 4 SUSPENSIONKJ
BUSHINGS (Continued)

LOWER BALL JOINT
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(2) Remove the brake caliper and rotor (Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(3) Disconnect the tie rod from the steering
knuckle (Refer to 19 - STEERING/LINKAGE/TIE
ROD END - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the steering knuckle (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL).
(5) Move the halfshaft to the side and support the
halfshaft out of the way (If Equipped).
NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used
on the threaded portions of the tool. This will
increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper
operation during the removal and installation pro-
cess.
(6) Secure the steering knuckle in a vise.
(7) Press the ball joint from the steering knuckle
using special tools C-4212±F (PRESS), 8859-2
(RECEIVER) and 8859-1 (DRIVER) (Fig. 7).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Extreme pressure lubrication must be used
on the threaded portions of the tool. This will
increase the longevity of the tool and insure proper
operation during the removal and installation pro-
cess.(1) Install the ball joint into the steering knuckle
and press in using special tools C-4212±F (press),
8859-3 (driver) and 6761 (receiver) (Fig. 8).
(2) Install the ball joint boot.
(3) Remove the support for the halfshaft and
install into position (If Equipped).
(4) Install the steering knuckle (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the tie rod end into the steering knuckle
(Refer to 19 - STEERING/LINKAGE/TIE ROD END -
INSTALLATION).
(6) Install and tighten the halfshaft nut to 136
N´m (100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the brake caliper and rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Check the vehicle ride height (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
(10) Perform a wheel alignment (Refer to 2 - SUS-
PENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Fig. 7 LOWER BALL JOINT
1 - 8859-1 DRIVER
2 - C-4212F PRESS
3 - 8859-2 RECEIVER
Fig. 8 LOWER BALL JOINT
1 - 6761 RECEIVER
2 - 8859-3 DRIVER
3 - C-4212F PRESS
KJSUSPENSION 2s - 5

CAUTION: Never use gasoline, kerosene, alcohol,
motor oil, transmission fluid, or any fluid containing
mineral oil to clean the system components. These
fluids damage rubber cups and seals. Use only
fresh brake fluid or Mopar brake cleaner to clean or
flush brake system components. These are the only
cleaning materials recommended. If system contam-
ination is suspected, check the fluid for dirt, discol-
oration, or separation into distinct layers. Also
check the reservoir cap seal for distortion. Drain
and flush the system with new brake fluid if con-
tamination is suspected.
CAUTION: Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent
quality fluid meeting SAE/DOT standards J1703 and
DOT 3. Brake fluid must be clean and free of con-
taminants. Use fresh fluid from sealed containers
only to ensure proper antilock component opera-
tion.
CAUTION: Use Mopar multi-mileage or high temper-
ature grease to lubricate caliper slide surfaces,
drum brake pivot pins, and shoe contact points on
the backing plates. Use multi-mileage grease or GE
661 or Dow 111 silicone grease on caliper slide pins
to ensure proper operation.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BASE BRAKE
SYSTEM
Base brake components consist of the brake shoes,
calipers, wheel cylinders, brake drums, rotors, brake
lines, master cylinder, booster, and parking brake
components.
Brake diagnosis involves determining if the prob-
lem is related to a mechanical, hydraulic, or vacuum
operated component.
The first diagnosis step is the preliminary check.
PRELIMINARY BRAKE CHECK
(1) Check condition of tires and wheels. Damaged
wheels and worn, damaged, or underinflated tires
can cause pull, shudder, vibration, and a condition
similar to grab.
(2) If complaint was based on noise when braking,
check suspension components. Jounce front and rear
of vehicle and listen for noise that might be caused
by loose, worn or damaged suspension or steering
components.
(3) Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Note
that the brake reservoir fluid level will decrease in
proportion to normal lining wear.Also note that
brake fluid tends to darken over time. This is
normal and should not be mistaken for contam-
ination.(a) If fluid level is abnormally low, look for evi-
dence of leaks at calipers, wheel cylinders, brake
lines, and master cylinder.
(b) If fluid appears contaminated, drain out a
sample to examine. System will have to be flushed
if fluid is separated into layers, or contains a sub-
stance other than brake fluid. The system seals
and cups will also have to be replaced after flush-
ing. Use clean brake fluid to flush the system.
(4) Check parking brake operation. Verify free
movement and full release of cables and pedal. Also
note if vehicle was being operated with parking
brake partially applied.
(5) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for
being loose or for bind condition. Do not road test
until condition is corrected.
(6) Check booster vacuum check valve and hose.
(7) If components checked appear OK, road test
the vehicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If complaint involved low brake pedal, pump
pedal and note if it comes back up to normal height.
(2) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under constant foot pressure.
(3) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-40 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as low pedal, hard pedal, fade, pedal pulsa-
tion, pull, grab, drag, noise, etc.
(4) Attempt to stop the vehicle with the parking
brake only and note grab, drag, noise, etc.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brake line, fitting, hose, or
caliper/wheel cylinder. If leakage is severe, fluid will
be evident at or around the leaking component.
Internal leakage (seal by-pass) in the master cylin-
der caused by worn or damaged piston cups, may
also be the problem cause.
An internal leak in the ABS or RWAL system may
also be the problem with no physical evidence.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up worn linings,
rotors, drums, or rear brakes out of adjustment are
the most likely causes. The proper course of action is
to inspect and replace all worn component and make
the proper adjustments.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 3
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

SPONGY PEDAL
A spongy pedal is most often caused by air in the
system. However, thin brake drums or substandard
brake lines and hoses can also cause a spongy pedal.
The proper course of action is to bleed the system,
and replace thin drums and substandard quality
brake hoses if suspected.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to
lining that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty.
PEDAL PULSATION
Pedal pulsation is caused by components that are
loose, or beyond tolerance limits.
The primary cause of pulsation are disc brake
rotors with excessive lateral runout or thickness vari-
ation, or out of round brake drums. Other causes are
loose wheel bearings or calipers and worn, damaged
tires.
NOTE: Some pedal pulsation may be felt during
ABS activation.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
²Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
²Loose/worn wheel bearing.
²Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
²Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
²Loose caliper mounting.
²Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
²Mis-assembled components.²Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is usually a product of overheating
caused by brake drag. However, brake overheating
and resulting fade can also be caused by riding the
brake pedal, making repeated high deceleration stops
in a short time span, or constant braking on steep
mountain roads. Refer to the Brake Drag information
in this section for causes.
BRAKE PULL
Front brake pull condition could result from:
²Contaminated lining in one caliper
²Seized caliper piston
²Binding caliper
²Loose caliper
²Rusty caliper slide surfaces
²Improper brake shoes
²Damaged rotor
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension
component are further causes of pull. A damaged
front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
5 - 4 BRAKES - BASEKJ
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causesof chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - PRESSURE
BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while
bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into
small bubbles that are distributed throughout the
hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding
operations necessary.
Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid
during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow
additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the
cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as
needed.
Bleed only one brake component at a time in the
following sequence:
²Master Cylinder
²Combination Valve
²Right Rear Wheel
²Left Rear Wheel
²Right Front Wheel
²Left Front Wheel
Follow the manufacturers instructions carefully
when using pressure equipment. Do not exceed the
tank manufacturers pressure recommendations. Gen-
erally, a tank pressure of 15-20 psi is sufficient for
bleeding.
Fill the bleeder tank with recommended fluid and
purge air from the tank lines before bleeding.
Do not pressure bleed without a proper master cyl-
inder adapter. The wrong adapter can lead to leak-
age, or drawing air back into the system. Use
adapter provided with the equipment or Adapter
6921.
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 5
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)

DRL relay is energized, it provides battery current
from a fused B(+) fuse in the JB to the headlamp
high beam filament through the DRL relay output
circuit.
FRONT FOG LAMPS
Vehicles equipped with optional front fog lamps
have a premium Body Control Module (BCM), a front
fog lamp relay installed in the Junction Block (JB),
and a front fog lamp switch integral to the left (light-
ing) control stalk of the multi-function switch. The
front fog lamps have a path to ground at all times
through their connection to the front fascia wire har-
ness from two take outs of the headlamp and dash
wire harness with eyelet terminal connectors that
are secured by ground screws to the left inner fender
shield in the engine compartment. The BCM controls
front fog lamp operation by monitoring the exterior
lighting switch input from the multi-function switch,
then energizing or de-energizing the front fog lamp
relay control coil; and, by sending the appropriate
electronic message to the instrument cluster over the
Programmable Communications Interface (PCI) data
bus to turn the front fog lamp indicator on or off.
When the front fog lamp relay is energized, it pro-
vides battery current from a fused B(+) fuse in the
JB to the front fog lamps through the front fog lamp
relay output circuit. The BCM provides a battery
saver (load shedding) feature for the front fog lamps,
which will turn these lamps off if they are left on for
more than about eight minutes with the ignition
switch in the Off position. In certain markets where
required, the front fog lamps are also turned off by
the BCM whenever the headlamp high beams are
selected. Each front fog lamp includes an integral
adjustment screw to be used for static aiming the fog
lamp beams.
HAZARD WARNING LAMPS
With the hazard switch in the On position, the
hazard warning system is activated causing the haz-
ard switch button illumination lamp, the right and
left turn signal indicators, and the right and left turn
signal lamps to flash on and off. When the hazard
warning system is activated, the circuitry within the
hazard switch and electronic combination flasher
unit will repeatedly energize and de-energize two
internal relays that switch battery current from a
fused B(+) fuse in the Junction Block (JB) to the
right side and left side turn signal indicators, and
turn signal lamps through the right and left turn sig-
nal circuits. The flashing of the hazard switch button
illumination lamp is performed internally by the haz-
ard switch and combination flasher unit circuit
board. The hazard warning lamps can also be ener-
gized by the Body Control Module (BCM) through ahazard lamp control circuit input to the hazard
switch and combination flasher unit.
HEADLAMPS
The headlamp system includes the Body Control
Module (BCM), a low beam relay installed in the
Junction Block (JB), a high beam relay installed in
the JB (except Canada), a solid state Daytime Run-
ning Lamps (DRL) relay installed in the JB (Canada
only), and the exterior lighting (headlamp and dim-
mer) switches integral to the left (lighting) control
stalk of the multi-function switch. The headlamp
bulbs have a path to ground at all times through
their connection to the grille opening reinforcement
wire harness from two take outs of the headlamp and
dash wire harness with eyelet terminal connectors
that are secured by ground screws to the left inner
fender shield in the engine compartment. The BCM
controls the headlamp operation by monitoring the
exterior lighting switch inputs from the multi-func-
tion switch, then energizing or de-energizing the con-
trol coils of the low beam relay, the high beam relay,
or the solid state circuitry of the DRL relay; and, by
sending the appropriate electronic message to the
instrument cluster over the Programmable Commu-
nications Interface (PCI) data bus to turn the high
beam indicator on or off. When each respective relay
is energized, it provides battery current from a fused
B(+) fuse in the Power Distribution Center (PDC)
through a relay (low beam, high beam, or DRL) out-
put circuit and four separate fuses in the JB through
individual fused right and left, low and high beam
output circuits to the appropriate headlamp bulb fil-
aments. The BCM provides a battery saver (load
shedding) feature for the headlamps, which will turn
these lamps off if they are left on for more than
about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the
Off position; and, a headlamp delay feature with a
DRBIIItscan tool programmable delay interval.
Each headlamp includes an integral adjustment
screw to be used for static aiming of the headlamp
beams.
HEADLAMP LEVELING
In certain markets where required, a headlamp
leveling system is provided on the vehicle. The head-
lamp leveling system includes unique headlamp units
equipped with a headlamp leveling actuator motor,
and a rotary thumbwheel actuated headlamp leveling
switch on the instrument panel. The headlamp level-
ing system allows the headlamp beams to be
adjusted to one of four vertical positions to compen-
sate for changes in inclination caused by the loading
of the vehicle suspension. The actuator motors are
mechanically connected through an integral pushrod
to an adjustable headlamp reflector. The headlamp
8L - 6 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORKJ
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR (Continued)

(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface perpen-
dicular to a flat wall 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from
the front of the front fog lamp lens (Fig. 16). If nec-
essary, tape a line on the floor 7.62 meters (25 feet)
away from and parallel to the wall.
(2) Measure up on the wall 1.27 meters (5 feet)
from the floor and tape a vertical line on the align-
ment screen at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from the rear of
the vehicle forward) to verify the accuracy of the cen-
terline placement.
(3) Rock the vehicle from side-to-side three times
to allow the suspension to stabilize, then jounce the
front suspension three times by pushing downward
on the front bumper and releasing. Measure the dis-
tance from the center of the front fog lamp lens to
the floor. Transfer this measurement to the align-
ment screen and tape a horizontal line on the wall at
this mark. This line will be used for up-and-down
adjustment reference.
(4) Measure the distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each front fog lamp beingaligned. Transfer these measurements to the align-
ment screen and tape a vertical line this distance to
each side of the vehicle centerline. These lines will be
used for left/right reference.
(5) Rotate the front fog lamp adjusting screws to
adjust the beam height as required (Fig. 17).
FRONT LAMP BULB
REMOVAL
The front lamp unit may contain either one or two
bulbs, depending upon the market for which the
vehicle was manufactured. The service procedures for
one bulb or for both bulbs is the same, only the bulb
sizes and types may differ. Be certain any removed
bulb is replaced with the same bulb size and type
that was removed.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the front lamp unit from the front
bumper fascia. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/
Fig. 16 Front Fog Lamp Alignment - Typical
1 - VEHICLE CENTERLINE
2 - CENTER OF VEHICLE TO CENTER OF FOG LAMP LENS
3 - HIGH-INTENSITY AREA
4 - FLOOR TO CENTER OF FOG LAMP LENS5 - 100 MILLIMETERS (4 INCHES)
6 - 7.62 METERS (25 FEET)
7 - FRONT OF FOG LAMP
8L - 26 LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIORKJ
FRONT FOG LAMP UNIT (Continued)

the front of the headlamp lens for North American
vehicles, or 10.0 meters (32.81 feet) away from the
front of the headlamp lens for Rest-Of-World vehicles
(Fig. 43). If necessary, tape a line on the floor at the
appropriate distance away from and parallel to the
wall.
(2) Measure up on the wall 1.27 meters (5 feet)
from the floor and tape a vertical line on the align-
ment screen at the centerline of the vehicle. Sight
along the centerline of the vehicle (from the rear of
the vehicle forward) to verify the accuracy of the cen-
terline placement.
(3) Rock the vehicle from side-to-side three times
to allow the suspension to stabilize, then jounce the
front suspension three times by pushing downward
on the front bumper and releasing. Measure the dis-
tance from the center of the headlamp lens to the
floor. Transfer this measurement to the alignment
screen and tape a horizontal line on the wall at this
mark. This line will be used for up-and-down adjust-
ment reference.(4) Measure the distance from the centerline of the
vehicle to the center of each headlamp being aligned.
Transfer these measurements to the alignment
screen and tape a vertical line this distance to each
side of the vehicle centerline. These lines will be used
for left/right reference.
HEADLAMP ADJUSTMENT
A properly aligned headlamp will project a pattern
on the alignment screen from just below horizontal to
75 millimeters (3 inches) below the headlamp center-
line for vehicles in North America, or from just below
horizontal to 125 millimeters (5 inches) below the
headlamp horizontal centerline for vehicles in Rest-
Of-World.
(1) Vehicles for all markets except Japan should
have the headlamp low beams selected with the dim-
mer (multi-function) switch during the adjustment
procedure. Vehicles for the Japanese market should
have the headlamp high beams selected.
(2) Cover the lens of the headlamp that is not
being adjusted.
Fig. 43 Headlamp Alignment Screen - Typical
1 - CENTER OF VEHICLE TO CENTER OF HEADLAMP LENS
2 - FLOOR TO CENTER OF HEADLAMP LENS
3 - 7.62 METERS (25 FEET) NORTH AMERICA/10.0 METERS
(32.81 FEET) REST-OF-WORLD4 - FRONT OF HEADLAMP
5 - VEHICLE CENTERLINE
KJLAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR 8L - 43
HEADLAMP UNIT (Continued)