2001 DODGE RAM tire type

(6) If necessary, remove the bolts holding the
transmission support bracket to the transmission.
INSTALLATION
(1) If removed, position the transmission support
bracket to the transmission. Install new attaching
bolts and tighten to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Position support cushion to transmission sup-
port bracket. Install stud nuts and tighten to 41 N´m
(30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Using the transmission jack, lower the trans-
mission and support cushion onto the crossmember
(Fig. 49).
(4) Install the support cushion bolts and tighten to
41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
A gear-type positive displacement pump (Fig. 48)is
mounted at the underside of the rear main bearing
cap. The pump uses a pick-up tube and screen
assembly to gather engine oil from the oil pan.
OPERATION
The pump draws oil through the screen and inlet
tube from the sump at the rear of the oil pan. The oil
is driven between the drive and idler gears and
pump body, then forced through the outlet to the
block. An oil gallery in the block channels the oil to
the inlet side of the full flow oil filter. After passing
through the filter element, the oil passes from the
center outlet of the filter through an oil gallery that
channels the oil up to the main gallery, which
extends the entire length on the right side of the
block. The oil then goes down to the No. 1 main bear-
ing, back up to the left side of the block, and into the
oil gallery on the left side of the engine.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oilpasses through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and pis-
ton pins.
The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 49).
Fig. 48 Positive Displacement Oil PumpÐTypical
1 - INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT
2 - BODY
3 - DISTRIBUTOR DRIVESHAFT (REFERENCE)
4 - COTTER PIN
5 - RETAINER CAP
6 - SPRING
7 - RELIEF VALVE
8 - LARGE CHAMFERED EDGE
9 - BOLT
10 - COVER
11 - OUTER ROTOR
9 - 158 ENGINE 5.9LBR/BE
REAR MOUNT (Continued)

LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
A pressure feed type (gerotor) oil pump is located
in the engine front cover. The pump uses a pick-up
tube and screen assembly to gather engine oil from
the oil pan (Fig. 51).
OPERATION
The pump draws oil through the screen and inlet
tube from the sump at the rear of the oil pan. The oil
is driven between the inner and outer gears of the oil
pump, then forced through the outlet in the engine
front cover. An oil gallery in the front cover channels
the oil to the inlet side of the full flow oil filter. After
passing through the filter element, the oil passes
from the center outlet of the filter through an oil gal-
lery that channels the oil up to the tappet galleries,
which extends the entire length of block.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oil
passes through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
Fig. 50 Engine Rear Support Cushion Assembly
Fig. 51 Pressure Feed Type (Gerotor) Oil PumpÐ
Typical
1 - OUTER ROTOR
2 - INNER ROTOR
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
4 - TIMING CHAIN COVER
9 - 214 ENGINE 8.0LBR/BE
REAR MOUNT (Continued)

FRAME & BUMPERS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BUMPERS
DESCRIPTION............................1
FRONT AIR DAM
REMOVAL...............................1
INSTALLATION............................2
FRONT FASCIA
REMOVAL...............................2
INSTALLATION............................2
ADJUSTMENT............................2
FRONT LOWER FASCIA
REMOVAL...............................3
INSTALLATION............................3
FRONT FASCIAÐSPORT
REMOVAL...............................3
INSTALLATION............................3
FRONT BUMPER
REMOVAL...............................3
INSTALLATION............................4
FRONT BUMPERÐSPORT
REMOVAL...............................4
INSTALLATION............................4REAR BUMPER
REMOVAL...............................5
INSTALLATION............................5
FRAME
DESCRIPTION............................6
SPECIFICATIONS.........................7
CAB CHASSIS ADAPTER BRACKET
REMOVAL...............................9
INSTALLATION............................9
FRONT TOW HOOK
REMOVAL...............................9
INSTALLATION...........................10
SPARE TIRE WINCH
REMOVAL..............................10
INSTALLATION...........................10
TRAILER HITCH
REMOVAL..............................10
INSTALLATION...........................10
TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE
REMOVAL..............................11
INSTALLATION...........................11
BUMPERS
DESCRIPTION
Bumpers are used at the front and rear of the
vehicle. Bumpers may be chrome or painted.
Bumpers are designed to protect the exterior sheet-
metal in low impact situations. The bumpers are
attached to the frame and provide mounting points
for some optional accessories such as fog lights and
tow hooks.
FRONT AIR DAM
REMOVAL
(1) Remove Pin-type fasteners attaching air dam
to bottom of front bumper (Fig. 1).
(2) Remove screws attaching air dam to bottom of
front bumper.
(3) Separate air dam from bumper.
BR/BEFRAME & BUMPERS 13 - 1

(17) When LCS adapter test leads are attached
into relay cavities, fuel pumpwill be activated.
Determine fuel pump amperage on DRB screen.
Amperage should be below 10.0 amps. If amperage is
below 10.0 amps, and specifications for the Fuel
Pump Pressure, Fuel Pump Capacity and Fuel Pres-
sure Leak Down tests were met, the fuel pump mod-
ule is OK.
(18) If amperage is more than 10.0 amps, replace
fuel pump module assembly. The electric fuel pump
is not serviced separately.
(19) Disconnect test leads from relay cavities
immediately after testing.
FUEL PUMP MODULE
DESCRIPTION
The fuel pump module on all gas powered engines
is installed in the top of the fuel tank (Fig. 16) or
(Fig. 17). The fuel pump module (Fig. 16), (Fig. 17)or
(Fig. 18)contains the following:
²A combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator
²Electric fuel pump
²Fuel pump reservoir
²A separate in-tank fuel filter (at bottom of mod-
ule)²Rollover valve (certain modules)
²Fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor)
²Fuel supply line connection at filter/regulator
²A threaded locknut retaining pump module to
fuel tank
²A gasket between tank flange and module
²Auxiliary non-pressurized fuel supply fitting (not
all engines)
The fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor), and
pick-up filter (at bottom of module) may be serviced
separately. If the electrical fuel pump requires ser-
vice, the entire fuel pump module must be replaced.
The fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator may be ser-
viced separately. Refer to Fuel Filter/Fuel Pressure
Regulator Removal/Installation for additional infor-
mation.
Fig. 15 FUEL PUMP RELAY - TYPE 3
TERMINAL LEGEND
NUMBER IDENTIFICATION
1 COIL BATTERY
2 COIL GROUND
3 COMMON FEED
4 NORMALLY CLOSED
5 NORMALLY OPEN
Fig. 16 Fuel Pump Module - Gas Powered With 26
or 34 Gallon Tank±Typical
1 - FUEL FILTER/PRESSURE REGULATOR
2 - FUEL SUPPLY FITTING
3 - REAR ROLLOVER VALVE
4 - ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
5 - FUEL PUMP MODULE
6 - FRONT ROLLOVER VALVE
7 - LOCKNUT
14 - 12 FUEL DELIVERY - GASOLINEBR/BE
FUEL PUMP (Continued)

materials will adhere to component surfaces and
could restrict or block fluid passages after assembly.
INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft, if necessary, (Fig. 218) and (Fig.
219).
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then press input
shaft into retainer (Fig. 220). Use a suitably sized
press tool to support retainer as close to input shaft
as possible.
(4) Install input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 217).
(5) Invert retainer and press input shaft in oppo-
site direction until snap-ring is seated.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston (Fig. 221). Concave side of spring faces down-
ward (toward piston).
(10) Install wave spring in retainer (Fig. 221). Be
sure spring is completely seated in retainer groove.
(11) Install bottom pressure plate (Fig. 216).
Ridged side of plate faces downward (toward piston)
and flat side toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
bottom pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate fol-
lowed by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is
installed (4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig.
216).
(13) Install top pressure plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
Fig. 217 Removing Input Shaft Snap-Ring
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING
3 - SNAP-RING PLIERS
21 - 248 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 42REBR/BE
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

INSPECTION
Replace the clutch discs if warped, worn, scored,
burned/charred, the lugs are damaged, or if the fac-
ing is flaking off. Replace the top and bottom pres-
sure plates if scored, warped, or cracked. Be sure the
driving lugs on the pressure and clutch plates are
also in good condition. The lugs must not be bent,
cracked or damaged in any way.
Replace the piston spring and wave spring if either
part is distorted, warped or broken.
Check the lug grooves in the clutch retainer. The
clutch and pressure plates should slide freely in the
slots. Replace the retainer if the grooves are worn or
damaged. Also check action of the check balls in the
retainer and piston. Each check ball must move
freely and not stick.
Replace the retainer bushing if worn, scored, or
doubt exists about bushing condition.
Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft, if necessary, (Fig. 216) and (Fig.
217).
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then press input
shaft into retainer (Fig. 218). Use a suitably sized
press tool to support retainer as close to input shaft
as possible.
(4) Install input shaft snap-ring (Fig. 217).
(5) Invert retainer and press input shaft in oppo-
site direction until snap-ring is seated.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston (Fig. 219). Concave side of spring faces down-
ward (toward piston).
(10) Install wave spring in retainer (Fig. 219). Be
sure spring is completely seated in retainer groove.
(11) Install bottom pressure plate (Fig. 216).
Ridged side of plate faces downward (toward piston)
and flat side toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
bottom pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate fol-
lowed by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is
installed (4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig.
216).
(13) Install top pressure plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
Fig. 215 Removing Input Shaft Snap-Ring
1 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
2 - INPUT SHAFT SNAP-RING
3 - SNAP-RING PLIERS
BR/BEAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 44RE 21 - 419
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

Inspect the piston and retainer seal surfaces for
nicks or scratches. Minor scratches can be removed
with crocus cloth. However, replace the piston and/or
retainer if the seal surfaces are seriously scored.
Check condition of the fiber thrust washer and
metal output shaft thrust washer. Replace either
washer if worn or damaged.
Check condition of the seal rings on the input shaft
and clutch retainer hub. Replace the seal rings only
if worn, distorted, or damaged. The input shaft front
seal ring is teflon with chamfered ends. The rear ring
is metal with interlocking ends.
Check the input shaft for wear, or damage. Replace
the shaft if worn, scored or damaged in any way.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Soak clutch discs in transmission fluid while
assembling other clutch parts.
(2) Install new seal rings on clutch retainer hub
and input shaft if necessary.
(a) Be sure clutch hub seal ring is fully seated in
groove and is not twisted.
(3) Lubricate splined end of input shaft and clutch
retainer with transmission fluid. Then partially press
input shaft into retainer (Fig. 216). Use a suitably
sized press tool to support retainer as close to input
shaft as possible.
(4) Install input shaft retaining ring.
(5) Press the input shaft the remainder of the way
into the clutch retainer.
(6) Install new seals on clutch piston. Be sure lip
of each seal faces interior of clutch retainer.
(7) Lubricate lip of piston seals with generous
quantity of MopartDoor Ease. Then lubricate
retainer hub and bore with light coat of transmission
fluid.
(8) Install clutch piston in retainer. Use twisting
motion to seat piston in bottom of retainer. A thin
strip of plastic (about 0.0209thick), can be used to
guide seals into place if necessary.
CAUTION: Never push the clutch piston straight in.
This will fold the seals over causing leakage and
clutch slip. In addition, never use any type of metal
tool to help ease the piston seals into place. Metal
tools will cut, shave, or score the seals.
(9) Install piston spring in retainer and on top of
piston. Concave side of spring faces downward
(toward piston).
(10) Install the spacer ring and wave spring into
the retainer. Be sure spring is completely seated in
retainer groove.(11) Install pressure plate (Fig. 223). Ridged side
of plate faces downward (toward piston) and flat side
toward clutch pack.
(12) Install first clutch disc in retainer on top of
pressure plate. Then install a clutch plate followed
by a clutch disc until entire clutch pack is installed
(4 discs and 3 plates are required) (Fig. 223).
(13) Install the reaction plate.
(14) Install selective snap-ring. Be sure snap-ring
is fully seated in retainer groove.
(15) Using a suitable gauge bar and dial indicator,
measure clutch pack clearance (Fig. 217).
(a) Position gauge bar across the clutch drum
with the dial indicator pointer on the pressure
plate (Fig. 217).
(b) Using two small screw drivers, lift the pres-
sure plate and release it.
(c) Zero the dial indicator.
(d) Lift the pressure plate until it contacts the
snap-ring and record the dial indicator reading.
Clearance should be 0.635 - 0.914 mm (0.025 -
0.036 in.). If clearance is incorrect, steel plates, discs,
selective snap ring and pressure plates may have to
be changed.
Fig. 216 Pressing Input Shaft Into Rear Clutch
Retainer
1 - INPUT SHAFT
2 - REAR CLUTCH RETAINER
3 - PRESS RAM
21 - 766 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47REBR/BE
REAR CLUTCH (Continued)

The 4x2 range is for use on any road surface at
any time.
The 4x4 and 4 Lo ranges are for off road use only.
They are not for use on hard surface roads. The only
exception being when the road surface is covered by
ice and snow.
The low range reduction gear system is operative
in 4 Lo range only. This range is for extra pulling
power in off road situations. Low range reduction
ratio is 2.72:1.
A front axle disconnect system is used to achieve
two-wheel drive mode. The axle disconnect vacuum
motor is actuated by a vacuum switch on the transfer
case. The switch is operated by the transfer case
range rod.
SHIFT MECHANISM
The transfer case is operated by an adjustable floor
mounted shift linkage. The transfer case shift lever
is directly attached to the shift sector. The sector
operates the range and mode forks within the trans-
fer case.
A straight line shift pattern is used with a NEU-
TRAL detent. Lever range positions are imprinted in
the shift knob.
SHIFTING
The synchronizer components allow the transfer
case to be shifted between the 2H and 4H operating
ranges while the vehicle is in motion. The vehicle
must have the transmission placed in NEUTRAL, or
the clutch depressed in the case of a manual trans-
mission, and be moving less than 2-3 MPH when
shifting into the 4L operating range.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - TRANSFER CASE
Before beginning repair on a suspected transfer
case malfunction, check all other driveline compo-
nents beforehand.
The actual cause of a problem may be related to
such items as: front hubs, axles, propeller shafts,
wheels and tires, transmission, or clutch instead. If
all other driveline components are in good condition
and operating properly, refer to the Diagnosis Chart
for further information.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
Condition Possible Cause Correction
Transfer Case difficult to shift or will
not shift into desired range.1) Vehicle speed too great to permit
shifting.1) Stop vehicle and shift into
desired range. Or, reduce speed to
below 3-4 km/h (2-3 mph) before
attempting the shift.
2) If vehicle was operated for an
extended period in 4H on a dry
paved surface, the driveline torque
load may be causing a bind.2) Stop vehicle and shift the
transmission into neutral. Shift the
transfer case to 2H and operate
vehicle in 2H on dry paved
surfaces.
3) Transfer case external shift
linkage binding.3) Lubricate, repair, or replace
linkage bushings, or tighten loose
components as necessary.
4) Insufficient or incorrect lubricant. 4) Drain and refill to edge of fill hole
with MoparTATF +4, type 9602,
Automatic Transmission fluid.
5) Internal components binding,
worn, or damaged.5) Disassemble the transfer case
and replace worn or damaged
components as necessary.
Transfer Case noisy in all operating
ranges.1) Insufficient or incorrect lubricant. 1) Drain and refill to edge of fill hole
with MoparTATF +4, type 9602,
Automatic Transmission fluid.
BR/BETRANSFER CASE - NV231HD 21 - 821
TRANSFER CASE - NV231HD (Continued)