
(6) Disconnect the headlamp and dash wire har-
ness connector for the wiper motor from the wiper
motor pigtail wire connector.
(7) Disconnect the headlamp and dash wire har-
ness ground connector from the wiper motor ground
terminal.
(8) Remove the wiper module from the cowl ple-
num as a unit.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the wiper module into the cowl ple-
num as a unit.
(2) Reconnect the headlamp and dash wire harness
ground connector to the wiper motor ground terminal
(Fig. 9).
(3) Reconnect the headlamp and dash wire harness
connector for the wiper motor to the wiper motor pig-
tail wire connector.
(4) Reach into the cowl plenum to align the wiper
module mounting bracket with the locations for the
mounting screws (Fig. 8).
(5) Install and tighten the four screws that secure
the wiper module bracket to the cowl plenum panel
and the dash panel. Tighten the screws to 8 N´m (72
in. lbs.).
(6) Reinstall the cowl plenum cover/grille panel
onto the cowl plenum. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/COWL GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(7) Reinstall the wiper arms onto the wiper pivots.
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/
WIPER ARMS - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
WIPER RELAY
DESCRIPTION
The wiper relay (or intermittent wipe relay) is
located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) near
the battery in the engine compartment. See the fuse
and relay layout label affixed to the inside surface of
the PDC cover for wiper relay identification and loca-
tion. The wiper relay is a conventional International
Standards Organization (ISO) micro relay. Relays
conforming to the ISO specifications have common
physical dimensions, current capacities, terminal pat-
terns, and terminal functions. The relay is contained
within a small, rectangular, molded plastic housing.
The relay is connected to all of the required inputs
and outputs through its PDC receptacle by five male
spade-type terminals that extend from the bottom of
the relay base. The ISO designation for each termi-
nal is molded into the base adjacent to the terminal.
The ISO terminal designations are as follows:
²30 (Common Feed)- This terminal is con-
nected to the movable contact point of the relay.
²85 (Coil Ground)- This terminal is connected
to the ground feed side of the relay control coil.
²86 (Coil Battery)- This terminal is connected
to the battery feed side of the relay control coil.
²87 (Normally Open)- This terminal is con-
nected to the normally open fixed contact point of the
relay.
²87A (Normally Closed)- This terminal is con-
nected to the normally closed fixed contact point of
the relay.
The wiper relay cannot be adjusted or repaired. If
the relay is damaged or faulty, it must be replaced.
OPERATION
The wiper relay (or intermittent wipe relay) is an
electromechanical switch that uses a low current
input from the Central Timer Module (CTM) to con-
trol a high current output to the low speed brush of
the wiper motor. The movable common feed contact
point is held against the fixed normally closed con-
tact point by spring pressure. When the relay coil is
energized, an electromagnetic field is produced by the
coil windings. This electromagnetic field draws the
movable relay contact point away from the fixed nor-
mally closed contact point, and holds it against the
fixed normally open contact point. When the relay
coil is de-energized, spring pressure returns the mov-
able contact point back against the fixed normally
closed contact point. A resistor or diode is connected
in parallel with the relay coil in the relay, and helps
to dissipate voltage spikes and electromagnetic inter-
ference that can be generated as the electromagnetic
field of the relay coil collapses.
Fig. 9 Wiper Module Electrical Connections
1 - GROUND CONNECTOR
2 - WIPER MOTOR CONNECTOR
3 - GROUND TERMINAL
BR/BEWIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 15
WIPER MODULE (Continued)

ENGINE 3.9L
DESCRIPTION
The 3.9 Liter (238 CID) six-cylinder engine is a
V-Type, lightweight, single cam, overhead valve
engine with hydraulic roller tappets. This engine is
designed to use unleaded fuel.
The engine lubrication system consists of a rotor
type oil pump and a full-flow oil filter.
The cylinders are numbered from front to rear; 1,
3, 5 on the left bank and 2, 4, 6 on the right bank.
The firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2 (Fig. 1).
The engine serial number is stamped into a
machined pad located on the left front corner of the
cylinder block. When component part replacement is
necessary, use the engine type and serial number for
reference (Fig. 2).
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐENGINE
DIAGNOSIS - INTRODUCTION
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise), or performance
(e.g., engine idles rough and stalls).
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TEST-
ING - Preformance) or (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAG-
NOSIS AND TESTING - Mechanical). Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM for fuel system diagnosis.
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can-
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
²Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis
²Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Diagnosis
²Engine Oil Leak Inspection
Fig. 1 Firing Order
Fig. 2 Engine Identification (Serial) Number
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 3
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 10 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐREPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐFORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS & SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 11
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

(8) Turn crankshaft and camshaft to line up with
keyway location in crankshaft sprocket and in cam-
shaft sprocket.
(9) Lift sprockets and chain (keep sprockets tight
against the chain in position as described).
(10) Slide both sprockets evenly over their respec-
tive shafts and use a straightedge to check alignment
of timing marks (Fig. 22).
(11) Install the camshaft bolt/cup washer. Tighten
bolt to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Measure camshaft end play (Fig. 23). (Refer to
9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for proper clear-
ance. If not within limits, install a new timing chain
tensioner.
(13) Each tappet reused must be installed in the
same position at which it was removed.When cam-
shaft is replaced, all of the tappets must be
replaced.Install hydraulic tappets (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
(CAM IN BLOCK) - INSTALLATION).
(14) Install timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(15) Install intake manifold (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD - INSTALLA-
TION).
(16) Install distributor.
(17) Install cylinder head covers (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(18) Install radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(19) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(20) Connect battery negative cable.
(21) Start engine and check for leaks.
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE-CONNECTING ROD
BEARING FITTING
Fit all rods on a bank until completed. DO NOT
alternate from one bank to another, because connect-
ing rods and pistons are not interchangeable from
one bank to another.
The bearing caps are not interchangeable and
should be marked at removal to ensure correct
assembly.
Each bearing cap has a small V-groove across the
parting face. When installing the lower bearing shell,
be certain that the V-groove in the shell is in line
with the V-groove in the cap. This provides lubrica-
tion of the cylinder wall in the opposite bank.The bearing shells must be installed so that the
tangs are in the machined grooves in the rods and
caps.
Limits of taper or out-of-round on any crankshaft
journals should be held to 0.025 mm (0.001 in.).
Bearings are available in 0.025 mm (0.001 in.), 0.051
mm (0.002 in.), 0.076 mm (0.003 in.), 0.254 mm
(0.010 in.) and 0.305 mm (0.012 in.) undersize.
Install the bearings in pairs. DO NOT use a new
bearing half with an old bearing half. DO NOT
file the rods or bearing caps.
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft (Fig. 24) is of a forged steel splayed
type design, with four main bearing journals.The
crankshaft is located at the bottom of the engine
block and is held in place with four main bearing
caps.
OPERATION
The crankshaft transfers force generated by com-
bustion within the cylinder bores to the flywheel or
flexplate.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LU-
BRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the oil pump (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL PUMP - REMOVAL).
(3) Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove
bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
(4) Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
Fig. 24 CrankshaftÐ3.9L Engine
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 31
CAMSHAFT & BEARINGS (IN BLOCK) (Continued)

(3) Using the transmission jack, lower the trans-
mission and support cushion onto the crossmember
(Fig. 49).
(4) Install the support cushion bolts and tighten to
41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Remove the transmission jack.
(6) Lower the vehicle.
LUBRICATION
DESCRIPTION
A gear-type positive displacement pump (Fig. 50)is
mounted at the underside of the rear main bearing
cap. The pump uses a pick-up tube and screen
assembly to gather engine oil from the oil pan.
OPERATION
The pump draws oil through the screen and inlet
tube from the sump at the rear of the oil pan. The oil
is driven between the drive and idler gears and
pump body, then forced through the outlet to the
block. An oil gallery in the block channels the oil to
the inlet side of the full flow oil filter. After passing
through the filter element, the oil passes from the
center outlet of the filter through an oil gallery that
channels the oil up to the main gallery, which
extends the entire length on the right side of the
block. The oil then goes down to the No. 1 main bear-
ing, back up to the left side of the block, and into the
oil gallery on the left side of the engine.
Galleries extend downward from the main oil gal-
lery to the upper shell of each main bearing. The
crankshaft is drilled internally to pass oil from the
main bearing journals to the connecting rod journals.
Each connecting rod bearing has half a hole in it, oil
passes through the hole when the rods rotate and the
hole lines up, oil is then thrown off as the rod
rotates. This oil throwoff lubricates the camshaft
lobes, distributor drive gear, cylinder walls, and pis-
ton pins.The hydraulic valve tappets receive oil directly
from the main oil gallery. The camshaft bearings
receive oil from the main bearing galleries. The front
camshaft bearing journal passes oil through the cam-
shaft sprocket to the timing chain. Oil drains back to
the oil pan under the No. 1 main bearing cap.
The oil supply for the rocker arms and bridged
pivot assemblies is provided by the hydraulic valve
tappets, which pass oil through hollow push rods to a
hole in the corresponding rocker arm. Oil from the
rocker arm lubricates the valve train components.
The oil then passes down through the push rod guide
holes and the oil drain-back passages in the cylinder
head, past the valve tappet area, and then returns to
the oil pan (Fig. 51).
Fig. 50 Positive Displacement Oil PumpÐTypical
1 - INNER ROTOR AND SHAFT
2 - BODY
3 - DISTRIBUTOR DRIVESHAFT (REFERENCE)
4 - COTTER PIN
5 - RETAINER CAP
6 - SPRING
7 - RELIEF VALVE
8 - LARGE CHAMFERED EDGE
9 - BOLT
10 - COVER
11 - OUTER ROTOR
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 45
REAR MOUNT (Continued)

(6) Add oil only if level is below the ADD mark on
dipstick.
ENGINE OIL CHANGE:
Change engine oil at mileage and time intervals
described in the Maintenance Schedule. This infor-
mation can be found in the owner's manual.
TO CHANGE ENGINE OIL
Run engine until achieving normal operating tem-
perature.
(1) Position the vehicle on a level surface and turn
engine off.
(2) Hoist vehicle.
(3) Remove oil fill cap.
(4) Place a suitable drain pan under crankcase
drain.
(5) Remove drain plug from crankcase and allow
oil to drain into pan. Inspect drain plug threads for
stretching or other damage. Replace drain plug and
gasket if damaged.
(6) Install drain plug in crankcase.
(7) Change oil filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - REMOVAL).
(8) Lower vehicle and fill crankcase with specified
type (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/
FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION) and amount of
engine oil (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTE-
NANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(9) Install oil fill cap.
(10) Start engine and inspect for leaks.
(11) Stop engine and inspect oil level.
OIL FILTER
REMOVAL
All engines are equipped with a high quality full-
flow, disposable type oil filter. DaimlerChrysler Cor-
poration recommends a Mopartor equivalent oil
filter be used.
(1) Position a drain pan under the oil filter.
(2) Using a suitable oil filter wrench loosen filter.
(3) Rotate the oil filter counterclockwise to remove
it from the cylinder block oil filter boss (Fig. 53).
(4) When filter separates from adapter nipple, tip
gasket end upward to minimize oil spill. Remove fil-
ter from vehicle.
(5) With a wiping cloth, clean the gasket sealing
surface (Fig. 54) of oil and grime.
(6) Install new filter (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRI-
CATION/OIL FILTER - INSTALLATION).
INSTALLATION
(1) Lightly lubricate oil filter gasket with engine
oil or chassis grease.
(2) Thread filter onto adapter nipple. When gasket
makes contact with sealing surface, (Fig. 54) hand
tighten filter one full turn, do not over tighten.
(3) Add oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Remove engine oil dipstick.
(3) Raise vehicle.
(4) Drain engine oil.
(5) Remove exhaust pipe.
(6) Remove left engine to transmission strut.
(7) Loosen the right side engine support bracket
cushion through-bolt nut and raise the engine
slightly. Remove oil pan by sliding backward and out.
(8) Remove the one-piece gasket.
Fig. 53 Oil Filter RemovalÐTypical
1 - ENGINE OIL FILTER
2 - OIL FILTER WRENCH
Fig. 54 Oil Filter Sealing SurfaceÐTypical
1 - SEALING SURFACE
2 - RUBBER GASKET
3 - OIL FILTER
9 - 48 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
OIL (Continued)

(8) Install closed crankcase ventilation and evapo-
ration control systems.
(9) Connect the coil wires.
(10) Connect the heat indicator sending unit wire.
(11) Connect the heater hoses and bypass hose.
(12) Install distributor cap and wires.
(13) Hook up the return spring.
(14) Connect the accelerator linkage (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/THROTTLE
CONTROL CABLE - INSTALLATION) and if so
equipped, the speed control and transmission kick-
down cables.
(15) Install the fuel lines (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYS-
TEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FIT-
TING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(16) Install the accessory drive bracket and A/C
Compressor (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING/A/C COMPRESSOR -
INSTALLATION).
(17) Install the generator (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/CHARGING/GENERATOR - INSTALLATION)
and drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY
DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLATION).
(18) Install the air cleaner.
(19) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(20) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
DESCRIPTION
The exhaust manifolds (Fig. 71) are constructed of
cast iron and are LOG type with balanced flow. One
exhaust manifold is attached to each cylinder head.
OPERATION
The exhaust manifolds collect the engine exhaust
exiting the combustion chambers, then channels the
exhaust gases to the exhaust pipes attached to the
manifolds.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust
manifold (Refer to 11 - EXHAUST SYSTEM/EX-
HAUST PIPE - REMOVAL).
(4) Lower the vehicle.
(5) Remove the exhaust heat shields.
(6) Remove bolts, nuts and washers attaching
manifold to cylinder head.
(7) Remove manifold from the cylinder head.
CLEANING
Clean mating surfaces on cylinder head and mani-
fold. Wash with solvent and blow dry with com-
pressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect manifold for cracks.
Inspect mating surfaces of manifold for flatness
with a straight edge. Gasket surfaces must be flat
within 0.2 mm per 300 mm (0.008 inch per foot).
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: If the studs came out with the nuts when
removing the engine exhaust manifold, install new
studs. Apply sealer on the coarse thread ends.
Water leaks may develop at the studs if this precau-
tion is not taken.
(1) Position the engine exhaust manifolds on the
two studs located on the cylinder head. Install coni-
cal washers and nuts on these studs (Fig. 72).
(2) Install two bolts and conical washers at the
inner ends of the engine exhaust manifold outboard
arms. Install two bolts WITHOUT washers on the
center arm of engine exhaust manifold (Fig. 72).
Starting at the center arm and working outward,
tighten the bolts and nuts to 34 N´m (25 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Install the exhaust heat shields.
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
Fig. 71 Exhaust ManifoldsÐ3.9L Engine
1 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD (RIGHT)
2 - EXHAUST MANIFOLD (LEFT)
3 - BOLTS & WASHERS
4 - NUTS & WASHERS
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 55
INTAKE MANIFOLD (Continued)