2001 DODGE RAM ECU

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the axle shaft flange bolts.
(2) Slide the axle shaft out from the axle tube.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the gasket contact surface area on the
flange with an appropriate solvent. Install a new
flange gasket and slide the axle shaft into the tube.
(2) Install the bolts and tighten to 129 N´m (95 ft.
lbs.).
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(2) Remove brake drum.
(3) Remove the axle shaft.
(4) Remove the lock wedge and adjustment nut.
Use Socket DD-1241±JD to remove the adjustment
nut.
(5) Remove the hub assembly. The outer axle bear-
ing will slide out as the hub is being removed.
(6) Remove inner grease seal and discard. Use
Installer 5064 and Handle C-4171 to drive grease
seal and inner axle bearing from the hub.
(7) Remove the bearing cups from the hub bore.
Use a brass drift, or an appropriate removal tool, to
tap out the cups.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean both axle bearings and inte-
rior of the hub with an appropriate cleaning solvent.
(2) Install the bearing cups. Use Installer 8153
and Handle C-4171 to install the bearing cups.
(3) Apply lubricant to surface area of the bearing
cup.
(4) Install the inner axle bearing in the hub.
(5) Install a new bearing grease seal. Use Installer
8152 and Handle C-4171 to install the grease seal.
(6) Inspect the bearing and seal contact surfaces
on the axle tube spindle for burrs and/or roughness.
Remove all the rough contact surfaces from the axle
spindle. Apply a coating of multi-purpose NLGI,
grade 2, EP-type lubricant to the axle.
CAUTION: Use care to prevent the bearing grease
seal from contacting the axle tube spindle threads
during installation. Otherwise, the seal could be
damaged.
(7) Carefully slide the hub onto the axle.
(8) Install the outer axle bearing.(9) Install the hub bearing adjustment nut. Use
Socket DD-1241±JD to install the adjustment nut.
(10) Tighten the adjustment nut to 163-190 N´m
(120-140 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
(11) Loosen the adjustment nut 1/8 of-a-turn to
provide 0.001-inch to 0.010-inch wheel bearing end
play.
(12) Tap the locking wedge into the spindle key-
way and adjustment nut. Try to ensure that the lock-
ing wedge is installed into a new position in the
adjustment nut.
(13) Install the axle shaft.
(14) Install the brake drum.
(15) Install the wheel and tire assembly.
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Scribe a mark on the universal joint, pinion
yoke, and pinion shaft for reference.
(3) Disconnect the propeller shaft from the pinion
yoke. Secure the propeller shaft in an upright posi-
tion to prevent damage to the rear universal joint.
(4) Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
(5) Remove the brake drums to prevent any drag.
The drag may cause a false bearing preload torque
measurement.
(6) Rotate the pinion yoke three or four times.
(7) Measure the amount of torque necessary to
rotate the pinion gear with a (in. lbs.) dial-type
torque wrench. Record the torque reading for instal-
lation reference.
(8) Hold the yoke with Wrench 6719. Remove the
pinion shaft nut and washer.
(9) Remove the yoke with Remover C-452 (Fig. 22).
(10) Remove the pinion shaft seal with suitable
pry tool or slide-hammer mounted screw.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the seal contact surface in the housing
bore.
(2) Examine the splines on the pinion shaft for
burrs or wear. Remove any burrs and clean the shaft.
(3) Inspect pinion yoke for cracks, worn splines
and worn seal contact surface. Replace yoke if neces-
sary.
NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated
with a special sealant. An additional application of
sealant is not required.
(4) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal.
(5) Install new pinion shaft seal with an appropri-
ate Installer.
BR/BEREAR AXLE - 286RBI 3 - 185

front tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause
pull.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at one of the brake units.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so
reduced that fade occurs. Since the opposite brake
unit is still functioning normally, its braking effect is
magnified. This causes pull to switch direction in
favor of the normally functioning brake unit.
An additional point when diagnosing a change in
pull condition concerns brake cool down. Remember
that pull will return to the original direction, if the
dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down (and is
not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB OR PULL
Rear grab or pull is usually caused by improperly
adjusted or seized parking brake cables, contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is
involved. However, when both rear wheels are
affected, the master cylinder or proportioning valve
could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH DEEP
WATER PUDDLES
This condition is generally caused by water soaked
lining. If the lining is only wet, it can be dried by
driving with the brakes very lightly applied for a
mile or two. However, if the lining is both soaked and
dirt contaminated, cleaning and/or replacement will
be necessary.
BRAKE LINING CONTAMINATION
Brake lining contamination is mostly a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, worn seals, driv-
ing through deep water puddles, or lining that has
become covered with grease and grit during repair.
Contaminated lining should be replaced to avoid fur-
ther brake problems.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a grab-like condition as the tire loses and
recovers traction. Flat-spotted tires can cause vibra-
tion and generate shudder during brake operation. A
tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise,
cut, or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.BRAKE NOISES
Some brake noise is common with rear drum
brakes and on some disc brakes during the first few
stops after a vehicle has been parked overnight or
stored. This is primarily due to the formation of trace
corrosion (light rust) on metal surfaces. This light
corrosion is typically cleared from the metal surfaces
after a few brake applications causing the noise to
subside.
BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign of
severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brake shoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors and drums can become so scored that replace-
ment is necessary.
BRAKE CHATTER
Brake chatter is usually caused by loose or worn
components, or glazed/burnt lining. Rotors with hard
spots can also contribute to chatter. Additional causes
of chatter are out-of-tolerance rotors, brake lining not
securely attached to the shoes, loose wheel bearings
and contaminated brake lining.
THUMP/CLUNK NOISE
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brake shoes can also produce a thump noise.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MANUAL BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality
fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards
only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at
all times.
(1) Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
(2) If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled,
open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws.
Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip
from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more
before proceeding.
(3) Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw
and insert opposite end in glass container partially
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 7
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)

(4) Have helper press and hold brake pedal to floor
and observe warning light.
(a) If warning light illuminates, switch is operat-
ing correctly.
(b) If light fails to illuminate, check circuit fuse,
bulb, and wiring. The parking brake switch can be
used to aid in identifying whether or not the brake
light bulb and fuse is functional. Repair or replace
parts as necessary and test differential pressure
switch operation again.
(5) If warning light still does not illuminate,
switch is faulty. Replace combination valve assembly,
bleed brake system and verify proper switch and
valve operation.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove pressure differential switch wire con-
nector (Fig. 4) from the valve.
(2) Remove the brake lines from the valve.
(3) Remove the valve mounting bolt and remove
the valve from the bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the valve on the bracket and install
the mounting bolt. Tighten the mounting bolt to 23
N´m (210 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the brake lines into the valve and
tighten to 19-23 N´m (170-200 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect the pressure differential switch wire
connector.(4) Bleed base brake system, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL - STAN-
DARD PROCEDURE).
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS
REMOVAL - REAR
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Compress the disc brake caliper using tool
#C4212F.
(4) Remove the caliper pin bolts.
(5) Remove the banjo bolt and discard the copper
washer.
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(6) Remove the rear disc brake caliper (Fig. 5).
REMOVAL - FRONT
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove front wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove caliper brake hose bolt, washers and
hose (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove caliper mounting bolts.
(5) Tilt the top of the caliper up and remove it
from the adapter.
(6) Remove anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Upper and lower anti-rattle springs are not
interchangeable.
Fig. 4 Pressure
1 - COMBINATION VALVE
2 - BRAKE LINES
3 - MOUNTING BOLT
4 - PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL SWITCH
Fig. 5 REAR CALIPER
1 - Banjo Bolt
2 - Caliper Pin Bolts
5 - 10 BRAKESBR/BE
COMBINATION VALVE (Continued)

(8) Push pedal shaft back and out of passenger
side of bracket (Fig. 24).
(9) Remove pedal shaft, brake pedal, wave washer
and bushings from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Replace bracket and pedal bushings if neces-
sary. Lubricate shaft bores in bracket and pedal
before installing bushings with Mopar Multi-mileage
silicone grease.
(2) Apply liberal quantity of Mopar multi-mileage
grease to pedal shaft and to pedal and bracket bush-
ings.
(3) Position brake pedal in mounting bracket.
(4) Slide pedal shaft into bracket and through
pedal from passenger side.
(5) Push pedal shaft out driver side of mounting
bracket just enough to allow installation of retaining
E-clip.
(6) Install the wave washer between the bracket
and the pedal bushing on the passenger side.
(7) Push pedal shaft back toward passenger side of
bracket and install remaining E-clip on pedal shaft.
(8) Install booster push rod on brake pedal. Secure
push rod to pedal with washer and retaining clip.
(9) Install brake lamp switch bracket and switch,
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/LAMPS/LIGHTING -EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP SWITCH - INSTALLA-
TION).
(10) Install knee bolster, (Refer to 23 - BODY/IN-
STRUMENT PANEL/STEERING COLUMN OPEN-
ING COVER - INSTALLATION).
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC
BOOSTER
The hydraulic booster uses hydraulic pressure from
the power steering pump. Before diagnosing a
booster problem, first verify the power steering pump
is operating properly. Perform the following checks.
²Check the power steering fluid level.
²Check the brake fluid level.
²Check all power steering hoses and lines for
leaks and restrictions.
²Check power steering pump pressure.
NOISES
The hydraulic booster unit will produce certain
characteristic booster noises. The noises may occur
when the brake pedal is used in a manner not asso-
ciated with normal braking or driving habits.
HISSING
A hissing noise may be noticed when above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied, 40 lbs. or above. The
noise will be more noticeable if the vehicle is not
moving. The noise will increase with the brake pedal
pressure and an increase of system operating temper-
ature.
CLUNK-CHATTER-CLICKING
A clunk-chatter-clicking may be noticed when the
brake pedal is released quickly, after above normal
brake pedal pressure is applied 50-100 lbs..
BOOSTER FUNCTION TEST
With the engine off depress the brake pedal several
times to discharge the accumulator. Then depress the
brake pedal using 40 lbs. of force and start the
engine. The brake pedal should fall and then push
back against your foot. This indicates the booster is
operating properly.
ACCUMULATOR LEAKDOWN
(1) Start the engine, apply the brakes and turn the
steering wheel from lock to lock. This will ensure the
accumulator is charged. Turn off the engine and let
the vehicle sit for one hour. After one hour there
should be at least two power assisted brake applica-
tion with the engine off. If the system does not retain
a charge the booster must be replaced.
Fig. 24 Brake Pedal Mounting (With Automatic
Transmission)
1 - PEDAL SHAFT
2 - SHAFT RETAINING E-CLIPS (2)
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - PEDAL BUSHING (2)
5 - PEDAL MOUNTING BRACKET
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 17
PEDAL (Continued)

REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE SHOES-11 inch
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove clip nuts securing brake drum to wheel
studs.
(4) Remove drum. If drum is difficult to remove,
remove rear plug from access hole in support plate.
Back-off self adjusting by inserting a thin screw-
driver into access hole and push lever away from
adjuster screw star wheel. Then insert an adjustertool into brake adjusting hole rotate adjuster star
wheel to retract brake shoes.
(5) Vacuum brake components to remove brake lin-
ing dust.
(6) Remove shoe return springs with brake spring
plier tool (Fig. 45).
Fig. 42 Outboard Brake Shoe
1 - OUTBOARD SHOE
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 43 Top Anti-Rattle Spring
1 - CALIPER ADAPTER
2 - ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
Fig. 44 Bottom Anti-Rattle Spring
1 - ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
Fig. 45 Shoe Return Springs
1 - SHOE RETURN SPRING
2 - SPECIAL TOOL (REMOVING AND INSTALLING)
3 - SHOE RETURN SPRING
4 - ADJUSTER CABLE
5 - LEVER SPRING
6 - ADJUSTER LEVER
7 - SHOE TO SHOE SPRING
8 - ANTI-RATTLE SPRING
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 25
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

(7) Remove adjuster cable. Slide cable eye off
anchor pin. Then unhook and remove cable from
adjuster lever.
(8) Remove cable guide from secondary shoe and
anchor plate from anchor pin.
(9) Remove adjuster lever. Disengage lever from
spring by sliding lever forward to clear pivot and
work lever out from under spring.
(10) Remove adjuster lever spring from pivot.
(11) Disengage and remove shoe to shoe spring
from brake shoes.
(12) Disengage and remove adjuster screw assem-
bly from brake shoes.
(13) Remove brake shoe retainers, springs (Fig.
46).
(14) Remove secondary brake shoe from support
plate.
(15) Remove strut and spring (Fig. 46).
(16) Remove parking brake lever retaining clip
from the secondary shoe and remove the lever.
(17) Remove primary shoe from support plate.
(18) Disengage parking brake lever from parking
brake cable.
(19) Remove parking brake cable guide spring.
REMOVAL - 12 1/8 INCH
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.(3) Remove clip nuts securing brake drum to wheel
studs.
(4) Remove brake drum.
(5) Vacuum brake components to remove brake lin-
ing dust.
(6) Unhook adjusting lever return spring from
lever.
(7) Remove lever and return spring from lever
pivot pin.
(8) Unhook adjuster lever from adjuster cable
assembly.
(9) Remove shoe-to-shoe upper spring (Fig. 47).
(10) Remove shoe hold-down springs (Fig. 48).
(11) Disconnect parking brake cable from parking
brake lever.
(12) Remove shoe-to-shoe lower spring and
adjuster assembly .
(13) Remove brake shoes (Fig. 49).
INSTALLATION - REAR
(1) Clean caliper mounting adapter and anti-rattle
springs.
(2) Lubricate anti-rattle springs with Mopar brake
grease.
(3) Install anti-rattle springs.
NOTE: Anti-rattle springs are not interchangeable.
(4) Install inboard brake shoe in adapter.
(5) Install outboard brake shoe in adapter.
(6) Tilt the bottom of the caliper over rotor and
under adapter. Then push the top of the caliper down
onto the adapter.
Fig. 46 Shoe Retainers, Springs and Pins
1 - SECONDARY SHOE AND LINING
2 - STRUT AND SPRING
3 - SPRING
4 - PIN
5 - RETAINER
6 - PRIMARY SHOE AND LINING
7 - TOOL C-4070
Fig. 47 Upper Spring
5 - 26 BRAKESBR/BE
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

(3) Lubricate adjuster screw socket, nut, button
and screw thread surfaces with grease or Lubriplate.
(4) Install parking brake lever to the secondary
shoe and install retaining clip.
(5) Install primary shoe on support plate. Secure
shoe with new spring retainers and pin.
(6) Install spring on parking brake strut and
engage strut in primary.
(7) Install secondary shoe on support plate (Fig.
51). Insert strut in shoe and guide shoe onto anchor
pin. Temporarily secure shoe with retaining pin.
(8) Install anchor plate and adjuster cable eyelet
on support plate anchor pin.
(9) Install cable guide in secondary shoe and posi-
tion cable in guide.
(10) Assemble adjuster screw (Fig. 52). Then
install and adjuster screw between the brake shoes.
CAUTION: Be sure the adjuster screws are installed
on the correct brake unit. The adjuster screws are
marked L (left) and R (right) for identification.
(11) Install adjuster lever and spring and connect
adjuster cable to lever.
(12) Install secondary shoe retainers and spring.
(13) Install shoe to shoe spring to secondary shoe,
then to primary shoe.(14)
Verify adjuster operation. Pull adjuster cable
upward, cable should lift lever and rotate star wheel. Be
sure adjuster lever properly engages star wheel teeth.
(15) Install the parking brake cable into guide
spring and insert cable into the backing plate.
(16) Adjust brake shoes to drum with brake gauge.
(17) Install wheel and tire assembly, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(18) Remove support and lower the vehicle.
INSTALLATION - 12 1/8 INCH
NOTE: Pivot screw and adjusting nut have left hand
threads on left side brake and right hand threads
on right side brake. Verify that adjusting nuts are
installed on correct side of vehicle.
(1) Coat contact pads on support plate with Mopar
high temperature grease, multi-mileage grease, or
equivalent.
(2) Assemble adjuster, lower spring and both brake
shoes. Then position the assembled components on
the support plate.
NOTE: Primary shoe is installed toward the front of
the vehicle and secondary toward the rear of the
vehicle.
(3) Install brake shoe hold-down springs and pins.
Be sure hold-down pins are seated in support plate
and springs are connected (Fig. 53).
(4) Insert parking brake cable through parking
brake cable guide spring to parking brake lever. Be
sure cable end is properly secured in lever.
(5) Install upper spring.
Fig. 51 Brake Shoe Installation
1 - SHOE RETURN SPRING
2 - ANCHOR PLATE
3 - ADJUSTER CABLE
4 - SHOE RETAINING PIN
5 - SECONDARY SHOE AND LINING
6 - PRIMARY SHOE AND LINING
7 - STRUT AND SPRING
Fig. 52 Adjuster Screw
1 - WASHER
2 - SOCKET
3 - STAMPED LETTER
L-LEFT BRAKE
R-RIGHT BRAKE
4 - SCREW THREADS
5 - NUT
6 - BUTTON
5 - 28 BRAKESBR/BE
BRAKE PADS/SHOES (Continued)

The drum forces both brake shoes to move in the
same direction of rotation. Servo action begins with
the primary brake shoe which begins to wedge (or
wrap) itself against the rotating drum surface. This
force is transmitted equally to the secondary brake
shoe through the adjuster screw and anchor pin. The
net result is that each shoe helps the other exert
extra force against the drum. It is servo action that
creates the wedging (or wrap) effect which produces
increased force on the drum braking surface.
All drum brake assemblies are equipped with a self
adjusting mechanism. The components forming the
mechanism consist of the: adjuster screw, adjuster
lever, actuating lever (11 inch brake), lever return
spring and the adjuster lever spring. The adjuster
lever on the 12 inch brake, is also equipped with a
lever and tension spring.
The adjuster mechanism performs two important
functions. First, is in maintaining proper brake shoe
operating clearance. And second, is to maintain brake
pedal height. The mechanism does so, by adjusting
the shoes in small increments to compensate for lin-
ing wear. The adjustment process is continuous
throughout the useful life of the brake lining.
The adjuster components are all connected to the
secondary brake shoes. Actual adjustment only
occurs during reverse brake stops. Secondary brake
shoe movement (during reverse stops), is what acti-
vates the adjuster components.
In operation, secondary shoe movement causes the
adjuster lever spring to exert pull on the lever. This
pivots the lever away from the adjuster screw teeth.
When the stop is completed and the brakes released,
the adjuster lever pivots back to a normal position. It
is during this return movement of the lever when
adjustment occurs. At this point, the lever comes
back into contact with the adjuster screw teeth as it
moves upward. The lever will then rotate the
adjuster screw one or two teeth as needed for adjust-
ment.
NOTE: The adjustment process requires a complete
stop to actually occur. Rolling stops will NOT acti-
vate the adjuster components. In addition, the
adjuster screws are left and right hand parts and
must NOT be interchanged.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE DRUM
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is indicated on the drum outer edge.
Generally, a drum can be machined to a maximum of
1.52 mm (0.060 in.) oversize. Always replace the
drum if machining would cause drum diameter to
exceed the size limit indicated on the drum.
BRAKE DRUM RUNOUT
Measure drum diameter and runout with an accu-
rate gauge. The most accurate method of measure-
ment involves mounting the drum in a brake lathe
and checking variation and runout with a dial indi-
cator.
Variations in drum diameter should not exceed
0.069 mm (0.0028 in.). Drum runout should not
exceed 0.18 mm (0.007 in.) out of round. Machine the
drum if runout or variation exceed these values.
Replace the drum if machining causes the drum to
exceed the maximum allowable diameter.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE DRUM
MACHINING
The brake drums can be machined on a drum lathe
when necessary. Initial machining cuts should be lim-
ited to 0.12 - 0.20 mm (0.005 - 0.008 in.) at a time as
heavier feed rates can produce taper and surface
variation. Final finish cuts of 0.025 to 0.038 mm
(0.001 to 0.0015 in.) are recommended and will gen-
erally provide the best surface finish.
Be sure the drum is securely mounted in the lathe
before machining operations. A damper strap should
always be used around the drum to reduce vibration
and avoid chatter marks.
The maximum allowable diameter of the drum
braking surface is stamped or cast into the drum
outer edge.
CAUTION: Replace the drum if machining will cause
the drum to exceed the maximum allowable diame-
ter.
CLEANING
Clean the individual brake components, including
the support plate and wheel cylinder exterior, with a
water dampened cloth or with brake cleaner. Do not
use any other cleaning agents. Remove light rust and
scale from the brake shoe contact pads on the sup-
port plate with fine sandpaper.
INSPECTION
As a general rule, riveted brake shoes should be
replaced when worn to within 0.78 mm (1/32 in.) of
the rivet heads. Bonded lining should be replaced
when worn to a thickness of 1.6 mm (1/16 in.).
Examine the lining contact pattern to determine if
the shoes are bent or the drum is tapered. The lining
should exhibit contact across its entire width. Shoes
exhibiting contact only on one side should be
replaced and the drum checked for runout or taper.
Inspect the adjuster screw assembly. Replace the
assembly if the star wheel or threads are damaged,
or the components are severely rusted or corroded.
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 33
DRUM (Continued)