2001 DODGE RAM ECU

CABLE TENSIONER
ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Tensioner adjustment is only necessary
when the tensioner, or a cable has been replaced or
disconnected for service. When adjustment is nec-
essary, perform adjustment only as described in the
following procedure. This is necessary to avoid
faulty park brake operation.
(1) Raise the vehicle.
(2) Back off the cable tensioner adjusting nut to
create slack in the cables.
(3) Remove the rear wheel/tire assemblies. Then
remove the brake drums.
(4) Verify the brakes are in good condition and
operating properly.
(5) Verify the park brake cables operate freely and
are not binding, or seized.
(6) Check the rear brake shoe adjustment with
standard brake gauge.
(7) Install the drums and verify that the drums
rotate freely without drag.
(8) Install the wheel/tire assemblies, (Refer to 22 -
TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Lower the vehicle enough for access to the park
brake foot pedal. Then fully apply the park brakes.
NOTE: Leave park brakes applied until adjustment
is complete.
(10) Raise the vehicle again.
(11) Mark the tensioner rod 6.35 mm (1/4 in.) from
edge of the tensioner (Fig. 71).
(12) Tighten the adjusting nut on the tensioner rod
until the mark is no longer visible.
CAUTION: Do not loosen, or tighten the tensioner
adjusting nut for any reason after completing
adjustment.
(13) Lower the vehicle until the rear wheels are
15-20 cm (6-8 in.) off the shop floor.
(14) Release the park brake foot pedal and verify
that rear wheels rotate freely without drag. Then
lower the vehicle.
RELEASE
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Reach under the driver side outboard end of
the instrument panel to access and unsnap the plas-
tic retainer clip that secures the park brake release
linkage rod to the park brake mechanism on the left
cowl side inner panel.
(3) Disengage the park brake release linkage rod
end from the park brake mechanism.
(4) Lift the park brake release handle to access
and unsnap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the lever on the
back of the park brake release handle.
(5) Lower the park brake release handle and reach
under the driver side outboard end of the instrument
panel to disengage the park brake release linkage
rod end from the lever on the back of the park brake
release handle.
(6) Lift the park brake release handle to access the
handle mounting bracket.
Fig. 71 Adjustment Mark
1 - TENSIONER CABLE BRACKET
2 - TENSIONER
3 - CABLE CONNECTOR
4 - 6.35mm
(1/4 IN.)
5 - ADJUSTER NUT
5 - 40 BRAKESBR/BE

(7) Using a trim stick or another suitable wide
flat-bladed tool, gently pry each of the park brake
release handle mounting bracket latch tabs away
from the retaining notches in the instrument panel
receptacle (Fig. 72).
(8) With both of the park brake release handle
mounting bracket latches released, slide the handle
and bracket assembly down and out of the instru-
ment panel receptacle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the park brake release handle to the
instrument panel.
(2) Slide the handle and bracket assembly up into
the instrument panel receptacle until both of the
park brake release handle mounting bracket latches
are engaged with the notches in the instrument
panel receptacle.
(3) Lower the park brake release handle and reach
under the driver side outboard end of the instrument
panel to engage the park brake release linkage rod
end with the lever on the back of the park brake
release handle.(4) Lift the park brake release handle to access
and snap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the lever on the
back of the park brake release handle over the link-
age rod.
(5) Reach under the driver side outboard end of
the instrument panel to access and engage the park
brake release linkage rod end to the park brake
mechanism.
(6) Snap the plastic retainer clip that secures the
park brake release linkage rod to the park brake
mechanism on the left cowl side inner panel over the
linkage rod.
(7) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
SHOES
REMOVAL - REAR DRUM IN HAT PARK BRAKE
SHOES - 2500/3500
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the disc brake caliper, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPERS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the disc brake rotor, (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL)
(5) Lockout the parking brake cable (Fig. 73).
Fig. 72 Park Brake Release Handle Remove/Install
1 - CLIP
2 - ROD
3 - MOUNTING BRACKET
4 - TRIM STICK
5 - LATCH TABS
6 - PARK BRAKE RELEASE HANDLE
Fig. 73 LOCK OUT PARKING CABLE
1 - LOCKING PLIERS
2 - PARKING BRAKE CABLE
BR/BEBRAKES 5 - 41
RELEASE (Continued)

Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is
entering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, hous-
ing cracks or through hydraulic line openings. Driv-
ing through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals.
IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT
Clutch release or engagement problems are caused
by wear or damage to one or more clutch compo-
nents. A visual inspection of the release components
will usually reveal the problem part.
Release problems can result in hard shifting and
noise. Items to look for are: leaks at the clutch cylin-
ders and interconnecting line; loose slave cylinder
bolts; worn/loose release fork and pivot stud; dam-
aged release bearing; and a worn clutch disc, or pres-
sure plate.
Normal condensation in vehicles that are stored or
out of service for long periods of time can generate
enough corrosion to make the disc stick to the fly-
wheel, or pressure plate. If this condition is experi-
enced, correction only requires that the disc be
loosened manually through the inspection plate open-
ing.
Engagement problems usually result in slip, chat-
ter/shudder, and noisy operation. The primary causes
are clutch disc contamination; clutch disc wear; mis-
alignment, or distortion; flywheel damage; or a com-
bination of the foregoing. A visual inspection is
required to determine the part actually causing the
problem.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and con-
sequent misalignment) is improper bolt tightening.
CLUTCH FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on the rear face of the engine block.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.
Replace the flywheel if scoring
is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with MopartLock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The clutch inspection chart (Fig. 3) outlines items to
be checked before and during clutch installation. Use
the chart as a check list to help avoid overlooking
potential problem sources during service operations.
The diagnosis charts describe common clutch prob-
lems, causes and correction. Fault conditions are listed
at the top of each chart. Conditions, causes and correc-
tive action are outlined in the indicated columns.
The charts are provided as a convenient reference
when diagnosing faulty clutch operation.
6 - 4 CLUTCHBR/BE
CLUTCH (Continued)

REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to Group 21, Transmission and
Transfer Case, for proper procedures.
(2) Remove clutch housing, for NV4500 equipped
vehicles.
(3) Disconnect release bearing from release fork
and remove bearing (Fig. 25).
INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bearing slide surface on transmission
front bearing retainer. Replace retainer if slide sur-
face is scored, worn, or cracked.(2) Inspect release lever and pivot stud. Be sure
stud is secure and in good condition. Be sure fork is
not distorted or worn. Replace fork spring clips if
bent or damaged.
(3) Lubricate input shaft splines, bearing retainer
slide surface, lever pivot ball stud, and release lever
pivot surface with Moparthigh temperature bearing
grease.
(4) Install release fork and release bearing (Fig.
26). Be sure fork and bearing are properly secured by
spring clips. Also be sure that the release fork is
installed properly. The rear side of the release lever
has one end with a raised area. This raised area goes
toward the slave cylinder side of the transmission.
(5) Install clutch housing, if removed.
(6) Install transmission and transfer case, if
equipped. Refer to Group 21, Transmission and
Transfer Case, for proper procedures.
PRESSURE PLATE
DESCRIPTION
The clutch pressure plate assembly is a diaphragm
type with a one-piece spring and multiple release fin-
gers. The pressure plate release fingers are preset
during manufacture and are not adjustable. The
assembly also contains the cover, pressure plate, and
fulcrum components.
Various sizes and designs of clutch covers are used
for the different engine and transmission combina-
tions. The currently used clutch covers and applica-
tions are listed below.
Fig. 24 Clutch Release Bearing
1 - RELEASE BEARING
2 - RELEASE FORK
Fig. 25 Clutch Release Components
1 - CONED WASHER
2 - CLUTCH HOUSING
3 - RELEASE FORK
4 - RELEASE BEARING AND SLEEVE
5 - PIVOT 23 N´m (200 IN. LBS.)
6 - SPRING
Fig. 26 Clutch Release Fork And
1 - PIVOT BALL
2 - FORK
3 - SLAVE CYLINDER OPENING
4 - BEARING
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 15
CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING (Continued)

shaft speeds and releasing the energy back into the
system when the crankshaft slows down.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However,
minor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.
Replace the flywheel if scoring
is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with MopartLock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: If the teeth are worn or damaged, the fly-
wheel should be replaced as an assembly. This is
the recommended and preferred method of repair.
In cases where a new flywheel is not readily avail-
able, (V10/Diesel Engine only) a replacement ring
gear can be installed. The following procedure must
be observed to avoid damaging the flywheel and
replacement gear.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES WHILE CUTTING RING GEAR.
(1) Mark position of the old gear for alignment ref-
erence on the flywheel. Use a scriber for this pur-
pose.
(2) Remove the old gear by cutting most of the way
through it (at one point) with an abrasive cut-off
wheel. Then complete removal with a cold chisel or
punch.
ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The ring gear is a shrink fit on the flywheel.
This means the gear must be expanded by heating
in order to install it. The method of heating and
expanding the gear is extremely important. Every
surface of the gear must be heated at the same
time to produce uniform expansion. An oven or
similar enclosed heating device must be used. Tem-
perature required for uniform expansion is approxi-
mately 375É F.
CAUTION: Do not use an oxy/acetylene torch to
remove the old gear, or to heat and expand a new
gear. The high temperature of the torch flame can
cause localized heating that will damage the fly-
wheel. In addition, using the torch to heat a replace-
ment gear will cause uneven heating and
expansion. The torch flame can also anneal the
gear teeth resulting in rapid wear and damage after
installation.
WARNING: WEAR PROTECTIVE GOGGLES OR
SAFETY GLASSES AND HEAT RESISTENT GLOVES
WHEN HANDLING A HEATED RING GEAR.
(1) The heated gear must be installed evenly to
avoid misalignment or distortion.
(2) Position and install the heated ring gear on the
flywheel with a shop press and a suitable press
plates.
(3) Place flywheel on work bench and let it cool in
normal shop air. Allow the ring gear to cool down
completely before installation it on the engine.
CAUTION: Do not use water or compressed air to
cool the flywheel. The rapid cooling produced by
water or compressed air will distort or crack the
new gear.
PILOT BEARING
DESCRIPTION
Vehicles equipped with a manual transmission uti-
lize a pilot bearing. This bearing is located in the
back of the engine crankshaft. Depending on the type
of engine or application, the pilot bearing can be a
solid soft metallic bushing or a fully caged needle
bearing. The pilot bearing's main functions are to
support the transmission input shaft, maintain
proper alignment of the clutch assembly and allow
the transmission main shaft to rotate at a different
speed than the engine mounted crankshaft.
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 17
FLYWHEEL (Continued)

OPERATION
The pilot bearing supports the transmission input
shaft, maintains proper clutch assembly alignment
and allows the transmission input shaft to rotate at a
different speed (RPM) than the engine mounted
crankshaft.
When the clutch pedal is depressed (with vehicle in
drive mode) the clutch disc slows and stops therefore,
the transmission input shaft slows and stops as well.
The pilot bearing allows the engine crankshaft to
continue to rotate even though the transmission
input shaft is stationary.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove transmission, transfer case, if
equipped, and clutch housing. Refer to Group 21,
Transmission and Transfer Case, for proper proce-
dures.
(2) Remove clutch cover and disc.
(3) Using a suitable blind hole puller, remove pilot
bearing.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean bearing bore with solvent and wipe dry
with shop towel.
(2) Install new bearing with clutch alignment tool
(Fig. 30). Keep bearing straight during installation.
Do not allow bearing to become cocked. Tap bearing
into place until flush with edge of bearing bore. Do
not recess bearing.
(3) Install clutch cover and disc.
(4) Install clutch housing, transmission and trans-
fer case, if equipped. Refer to Group 21, Transmis-
sion and Transfer Case, for proper procedures.
CLUTCH PEDAL
REMOVAL
(1) Remove retaining clips that secure the brake
and clutch pedals to the push rods (Fig. 31).
(2) Remove the brake and clutch master cylinder
pushrods from the pedals.
(3) Remove knee bolster (Fig. 32) for access to
pedal pivot shaft.
(4) Remove brake lamp switch.
(5) Remove retainer from passenger side of pedal
pivot shaft (Fig. 33).
(6) Push pedal pivot shaft toward driver side of
support only enough to remove clutch pedal. It is not
necessary to remove shaft from pedal support
entirely.
(7) Remove clutch pedal.
Fig. 30 Typical Method Of Installing Pilot Bearing
1 - PILOT BEARING
2 - ALIGNMENT TOOL
3 - LETTER SIDE MUST FACE TRANSMISSION
Fig. 31 Clutch Cylinder Push Rod Attachment
1 - PIN
2 - CLUTCH INTERLOCK WIRE
3 - PUSH ROD
4 - CLIP
6 - 18 CLUTCHBR/BE
PILOT BEARING (Continued)

INSTALLATION
(1) Inspect bushings in clutch and brake pedals
(Fig. 33). Replace bushings if worn, cracked, or dis-
torted.(2) Lubricate pedal shaft, pedal shaft bore (Fig. 33)
and all bushings with MopartMulti Mileage, or high
temperature bearing grease.
(3) Position clutch pedal in support. Align pedal
with pivot shaft and slide shaft through pedal bush-
ings. Then repeat process for brake pedal.
(4) Slide pedal shaft through support and install
shaft retainer.
(5) Secure push rods to clutch and brake pedals.
(6) Install brake lamp switch in bracket.
(7) Install knee bolster.
LINKAGE
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic linkage consists of a clutch master
cylinder, reservoir, a clutch slave cylinder and an
interconnecting fluid line 9 (Fig 34).
The clutch master cylinder push rod is connected
to the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder push rod is
connected to the clutch release fork. The master cyl-
inder is mounted on the driver side of the dash panel
adjacent to the brake master cylinder and booster
assembly.
The hydraulic linkage is serviced as an assembly only.
The individual components that form the linkage
assembly cannot be overhauled or serviced separately.
Fig. 32 Knee Bolster RemovalÐTypical
1 - INSTRUMENT PANEL FLANGES
2 - KNEE BOLSTER
Fig. 33 Clutch/Brake Pedal Mounting
1 - PEDAL SUPPORT
2 - SHAFT RETAINER
3 - BRAKE PEDAL
4 - CLUTCH PEDAL
5 - SHAFT RETAINER
6 - PEDAL PIVOT SHAFT
7 - BUSHINGS
Fig. 34 Clutch
1 - DASH PANEL
2 - CYLINDER RESERVOIR
3 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
4 - SLAVE CYLINDER
5 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
BR/BECLUTCH 6 - 19
CLUTCH PEDAL (Continued)

The clutch fluid reservoir, master cylinder, slave
cylinder and fluid lines are pre-filled with fluid at
the factory during assembly operations.
The hydraulic system should not require additional
fluid under normal circumstances.The reservoir
fluid level will actually increase as normal
clutch wear occurs. Avoid overfilling, or remov-
ing fluid from the reservoir.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir. An indicator ring is provided on the outside
of the reservoir. With the cap and diaphragm
removed, fluid level should not be above indicator
ring.
To avoid contaminating the hydraulic fluid during
inspection, wipe reservoir and cover clean before
removing the cap.
OPERATION
The clutch linkage uses hydraulic pressure to oper-
ate the clutch. Depressing the clutch pedal develops
fluid pressure in the clutch master cylinder. This
pressure is transmitted to the slave cylinder through
a connecting line. In turn, the slave cylinder operates
the clutch release lever.
The slave cylinder has an integral spring which
preloads the release bearing against the clutch dia-
phragm fingers to maintain zero free-play.
Slave cylinder force causes the release lever to
move the release bearing into contact with the dia-
phragm spring. As additional force is applied, the
bearing presses the diaphragm spring fingers inward
on the fulcrums. This action moves the pressure
plate rearward relieving clamp force on the disc.
REMOVAL
The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a quick
disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
not be disconnected or tampered with. The hydraulic
linkage is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes
as two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
should not be disconnected. The individual compo-
nents that form the linkage assembly cannot be over-
hauled or serviced separately.
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove nuts attaching slave cylinder to studs
on clutch housing (Fig. 35).
(3) Remove slave cylinder from clutch housing.
(4) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the lower dash panel
flange.
(5) Remove the plastic clip securing the hydraulic
line to the dash panel from the upper dash panel
stud.
(6) Lower vehicle.
(7) Disconnect clutch pedal interlock switch wires.(8) Remove retaining clip (Fig. 36).
(9) Slide clutch master cylinder push rod off pedal
pin.
(10) Inspect condition of bushing in the clutch
master cylinder pushrod (Fig. 36). Replace the clutch
hydraulic linkage if bushing is worn or damaged.
(11) Verify that cap on clutch master cylinder res-
ervoir is tight. This will avoid spillage during
removal.
(12) Remove the nuts holding the clutch master
cylinder to the dash panel.
(13) Remove screws that attach clutch fluid reser-
voir to dash panel.
(14) Remove the clutch master cylinder from the
dash panel.
(15) Remove clutch cylinders, reservoir and con-
necting lines from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
The factory installed hydraulic linkage has a quick
disconnect at the slave cylinder. This fitting should
not be disconnected or tampered with. The hydraulic
linkage is serviced as an assembly only, but it comes
as two pieces to ease installation. Once the clutch
hydraulic line is connected to the slave cylinder, it
Fig. 35 Clutch Hydraulic Linkage
1 - DASH PANEL
2 - CYLINDER RESERVOIR
3 - CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER
4 - SLAVE CYLINDER
5 - CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
6 - 20 CLUTCHBR/BE
LINKAGE (Continued)