2001 DODGE RAM lock

REMOVAL
The valve body can be removed for service without
having to remove the transmission assembly.
The valve body can be disassembled for cleaning
and inspection of the individual components.
The only replaceable valve body components are:
²Manual lever.
²Manual lever washer, seal, E-clip, and shaft
seal.
²Manual lever detent ball.
²Throttle lever.
²Fluid filter.
²Pressure adjusting screw bracket.
²Governor pressure solenoid.
²Governor pressure sensor (includes transmission
temperature thermistor).
²Converter clutch/overdrive solenoid assembly
and harness .
²Governor housing gasket.
²Solenoid case connector O-rings.
(1) Shift transmission into NEUTRAL.
(2) Raise vehicle.
(3) Remove gearshift and throttle levers from shaft
of valve body manual lever.
(4) Disconnect wires at solenoid case connector
(Fig. 263).
(5) Position drain pan under transmission oil pan.
(6) Remove transmission oil pan and gasket.
(7) Remove fluid filter from valve body.(8) Remove bolts attaching valve body to transmis-
sion case.
(9) Lower valve body enough to remove accumula-
tor piston and springs.
(10) Work manual lever shaft and electrical con-
nector out of transmission case.
(11) Lower valve body, rotate valve body away
from case, pull park rod out of sprag, and remove
valve body (Fig. 264).
Fig. 262 Boost Valve After Lock-upFig. 263 Transmission Case Connector
1 - SOLENOID CASE CONNECTOR
2 - PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH
Fig. 264 Valve Body
1 - VALVE BODY
2 - WIRE HARNESS
3 - PARK ROD
4 - GOVERNOR PRESSURE SOLENOID
5 - GOVERNOR PRESSURE SENSOR
21 - 798 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47REBR/BE
VALVE BODY (Continued)

VALVE BODY LOWER HOUSING
(1) Remove timing valve cover.
(2) Remove 3-4 timing valve and spring.
(3) Remove 3-4 quick fill valve, spring and plug.
(4) Remove 3-4 shift valve and spring.
(5) Remove converter clutch valve, spring and plug
(Fig. 293).
(6) Remove converter clutch timing valve, retainer
and valve spring.
3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
(1) Remove end plate from housing.
(2) Remove piston spring.
(3) Remove piston. Remove and discard piston
seals (Fig. 294).
CLEANING
Clean the valve housings, valves, plugs, springs,
and separator plates with a standard parts cleaningsolution only. Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or any
type of caustic solution.
Do not immerse any of the electrical components in
cleaning solution. Clean the governor solenoid and
sensor and the dual solenoid and harness assembly
by wiping them off with dry shop towels only.
Dry all except the electrical parts with compressed
air. Make sure all passages are clean and free from
obstructions.Do not use rags or shop towels to
dry or wipe off valve body components. Lint
from these materials can stick to valve body
parts, interfere with valve operation, and clog
filters and fluid passages.
Wipe the governor pressure sensor and solenoid
valve with dry, lint free shop towels only. The O-rings
on the sensor and solenoid valve are the only service-
able components. Be sure the vent ports in the sole-
noid valve are open and not blocked by dirt or debris.
Replace the valve and/or sensor only when DRB scan
tool diagnosis indicates this is necessary. Or, if either
Fig. 292 Upper Housing Shift Valve and Pressure Plug Locations
1 - UPPER HOUSING 8 - RETAINER
2 - 1-2 SHIFT VALVE AND SPRING 9 - 1-2 SHIFT CONTROL VALVE AND SPRING
3 - 2-3 SHIFT VALVE AND SPRING 10 - PRESSURE PLUG COVER
4 - 2-3 THROTTLE PLUG 11 - LINE PRESSURE PLUG
5 - LIMIT VALVE HOUSING 12 - PLUG SLEEVE
6 - LIMIT VALVE COVER 13 - THROTTLE PRESSURE SPRING AND PLUG
7 - LIMIT VALVE AND SPRING
21 - 808 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47REBR/BE
VALVE BODY (Continued)

CAUTION: Many of the valves and plugs, such as
the throttle valve, shuttle valve plug, 1-2 shift valve
and 1-2 governor plug, are made of coated alumi-
num. Aluminum components are identified by the
dark color of the special coating applied to the sur-
face (or by testing with a magnet). Do not sand alu-
minum valves or plugs under any circumstances.
This practice could damage the special coating
causing the valves/plugs to stick and bind.
Inspect the valves and plugs for scratches, burrs,
nicks, or scores. Minor surface scratches on steel
valves and plugs can be removed with crocus cloth
butdo not round off the edges of the valve or
plug lands.Maintaining sharpness of these edges is
vitally important. The edges prevent foreign matter
from lodging between the valves and plugs and the
bore.
Inspect all the valve and plug bores in the valve
body. Use a penlight to view the bore interiors.
Replace the valve body if any bores are distorted or
scored. Inspect all of the valve body springs. The
springs must be free of distortion, warpage or broken
coils.
Check the two separator plates for distortion or
damage of any kind. Inspect the upper housing,
lower housing, 3-4 accumulator housing, and transfer
plate carefully. Be sure all fluid passages are clean
and clear. Check condition of the upper housing andtransfer plate check balls as well. The check balls
and ball seats must not be worn or damaged.
Trial fit each valve and plug in its bore to check
freedom of operation. When clean and dry, the valves
and plugs should drop freely into the bores.
Valve body bores do not change dimensionally with
use. If the valve body functioned correctly when new,
it will continue to operate properly after cleaning and
inspection. It should not be necessary to replace a
valve body assembly unless it is damaged in han-
dling.
The only serviceable valve body components are
listed below. The remaining valve body components
are serviced only as part of a complete valve body
assembly. Serviceable parts are:
²dual solenoid and harness assembly
²solenoid gasket
²solenoid case connector O-rings and shoulder
bolt
²switch valve and spring
²pressure adjusting screw and bracket assembly
²throttle lever
²manual lever and shaft seal
²throttle lever shaft seal, washer, and E-clip
²fluid filter and screws
²detent ball and spring
²valve body screws
²governor pressure solenoid
²governor pressure sensor and retaining clip
²park lock rod and E-clip
ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Do not force valves or plugs into place
during reassembly. If the valve body bores, valves
and plugs are free of distortion or burrs, the valve
body components should all slide into place easily.
In addition, do not overtighten the transfer plate
and valve body screws during reassembly. Over-
tightening can distort the housings resulting in
valve sticking, cross leakage and unsatisfactory
operation. Tighten valve body screws to recom-
mended torque only.
LOWER HOUSING
(1) Lubricate valves, springs, and the housing
valve and plug bores with clean transmission fluid
(Fig. 298).
(2) Install 3-4 timing valve spring and valve in
lower housing.
(3) Install 3-4 quick fill valve in lower housing.
(4) Install 3-4 quick fill valve spring and plug in
housing.
(5) Install timing valve end plate. Tighten end
plate screws to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
Fig. 294 3-4 Accumulator and Housing
1 - ACCUMULATOR PISTON
2 - 3-4 ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
3 - TEFLON SEALS
4 - PISTON SPRING
5 - COVER PLATE AND SCREWS
21 - 810 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47REBR/BE
VALVE BODY (Continued)

(9) Connect harness wires to governor pressure
solenoid and governor pressure sensor.
(10) Install fluid filter and pan.
(11) Lower vehicle.
(12) Fill transmission with recommended fluid and
road test vehicle to verify repair.
INSTALLATION
(1) Check condition of O-ring seals on valve body
harness connector (Fig. 314). Replace seals on con-
nector body if cut or worn.
(2) Check condition of manual lever shaft seal in
transmission case. Replace seal if lip is cut or worn.
Install new seal with 15/16 deep well socket (Fig.
315).
(3) Check condition of seals on accumulator piston
(Fig. 316). Install new piston seals, if necessary.
(4) Place valve body manual lever in low (1 posi-
tion) so ball on park lock rod will be easier to install
in sprag.
(5) Lubricate shaft of manual lever with petroleum
jelly. This will ease inserting shaft through seal in
case.
(6) Lubricate seal rings on valve body harness con-
nector with petroleum jelly.
(7) Position valve body in case and work end of
park lock rod into and through pawl sprag. Turn pro-
peller shaft to align sprag and park lock teeth if nec-
essary. The rod will click as it enters pawl. Move rod
to check engagement.
CAUTION: It is possible for the park rod to displace
into a cavity just above the pawl sprag during
installation. Make sure the rod is actually engaged
in the pawl and has not displaced into this cavity.(8) Install accumulator springs and piston into
case. Then swing valve body over piston and outer
spring to hold it in place.
(9) Align accumulator piston and outer spring,
manual lever shaft and electrical connector in case.
(10) Then seat valve body in case and install one
or two bolts to hold valve body in place.
(11) Tighten valve body bolts alternately and
evenly to 11 N´m (100 in. lbs.) torque.
(12) Install new fluid filter on valve body. Tighten
filter screws to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install throttle and gearshift levers on valve
body manual lever shaft.
(14) Check and adjust front and rear bands if nec-
essary.
(15) Connect solenoid case connector wires.
(16) Install oil pan and new gasket. Tighten pan
bolts to 17 N´m (13 ft. lbs.) torque.
(17) Lower vehicle and fill transmission with
MopartATF +4, type 9602, fluid.
(18) Check and adjust gearshift and throttle valve
cables, if necessary.
ADJUSTMENTS - VALVE BODY
CONTROL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS
There are two control pressure adjustments on the
valve body;
²Line Pressure
²Throttle Pressure
Line and throttle pressures are interdependent
because each affects shift quality and timing. As a
result, both adjustments must be performed properly
and in the correct sequence. Adjust line pressure first
and throttle pressure last.
Fig. 313 Solenoid Harness Routing
1 - OVERDRIVE/CONVERTER SOLENOID WIRE HARNESS
2 - 3-4 ACCUMULATOR COVER PLATE
Fig. 314 Valve Body Harness Connector O-Ring Seal
1 - CONNECTOR O-RINGS
2 - VALVE BODY HARNESS CONNECTOR
3 - HARNESS
21 - 818 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47REBR/BE
VALVE BODY (Continued)

LINE PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
Measure distance from the valve body to the inner
edge of the adjusting screw with an accurate steel
scale (Fig. 317).
Distance should be 33.4 mm (1-5/16 in.).
If adjustment is required, turn the adjusting screw
in, or out, to obtain required distance setting.
NOTE: The 33.4 mm (1-5/16 in.) setting is an
approximate setting. Manufacturing tolerances may
make it necessary to vary from this dimension to
obtain desired pressure.
One complete turn of the adjusting screw changes
line pressure approximately 1-2/3 psi (9 kPa).
Turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise
increases pressure while turning the screw clockwise
decreases pressure.THROTTLE PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
Insert Gauge Tool C-3763 between the throttle
lever cam and the kickdown valve stem (Fig. 318).
Push the gauge tool inward to compress the kick-
down valve against the spring and bottom the throt-
tle valve.
Maintain pressure against kickdown valve spring.
Turn throttle lever stop screw until the screw head
touches throttle lever tang and the throttle lever cam
touches gauge tool.
NOTE: The kickdown valve spring must be fully
compressed and the kickdown valve completely
bottomed to obtain correct adjustment.
Fig. 315 Manual Lever Shaft Seal
1 - 15/16©© SOCKET
2 - SEAL
Fig. 316 Accumulator Piston Components
1 - INNER SPRING
2 - ACCUMULATOR PISTON
3 - OUTER SPRING
4 - SEAL RINGS
Fig. 317 Line Pressure Adjustment
1 - WRENCH
2 - 1±5/16 INCH
Fig. 318 Throttle Pressure Adjustment
1 - HEX WRENCH (IN THROTTLE LEVER ADJUSTING SCREW)
2 - SPECIAL TOOL C-3763 (POSITIONED BETWEEN THROTTLE
LEVER AND KICKDOWN VALVE)
BR/BEAUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION - 47RE 21 - 819
VALVE BODY (Continued)

Condition Possible Cause Correction
Noisy in, or jumps out of, four wheel
drive low range.1) Transfer case not completely
engaged in 4L position.1) With the transmission in
NEUTRAL, or the clutch depressed
in the case of a manual
transmission and the vehicle moving
under 3-4 km/h (2-3 mph), shift the
transfer case to NEUTRAL and then
shift into the 4L position.
2) Shift linkage out of adjustment. 2) Adjust linkage.
3) Shift linkage loose or binding. 3) Tighten, lubricate, or repair
linkage as necessary.
4) Range fork damaged, inserts
worn, or fork is binding on the shift
rail.4) Disassemble unit and repair as
necessary.
5) Low range gear worn or
damaged.5) Disassemble unit and repair as
necessary.
Lubricant leaking from output shaft
seal or vent.1) Transfer case overfilled. 1) Drain lubricant to the correct
level.
2) Vent closed or restricted. 2) Clear or replace vent as
necessary.
3) Output shaft seals damaged or
installed incorrectly.3) Replace seal as necessary.
Check to ensure that another
component, the propeller shaft slip
yoke for example, is not causing
damage to seal.
Abnormal tire wear. 1) Extended operation on hard, dry
surfaces in the 4H position.1) Operate vehicle in the 2H
position on hard, dry surfaces.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove skid plate, if equipped. (Refer to 13 -
FRAMES & BUMPERS/FRAME/TRANSFER CASE
SKID PLATE - REMOVAL)
(3) Position drain oil container under transfer
case.
(4) Remove transfer case drain plug and drain
lubricant into container.
(5) Disconnect vent hose and vacuum harness at
transfer case switch.
(6) Disconnect shift rod from grommet in transfer
case shift lever, or from floor shift arm whichever
provides easy access. Use channel lock style pliers to
press rod out of lever grommet.
(7) Support transmission with jack stand.
(8) Remove rear crossmember.
(9) Mark front and rear propeller shafts for assem-
bly reference.(10) Remove front and rear propeller shafts. (Refer
to 3 - DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE/PROPELLER
SHAFT/PROPELLER SHAFT - REMOVAL)
(11) Support transfer case with suitable jack.
Secure transfer case to jack with safety chains.
(12) Remove nuts attaching transfer case to trans-
mission.
(13) Move transfer case assembly rearward until
free of transmission output shaft.
(14) Lower jack and move transfer case from
under vehicle.
DISASSEMBLY
Position transfer case in a shallow drain pan.
Remove drain plug and drain any remaining lubri-
cant remaining in case.
21 - 822 TRANSFER CASE - NV231HDBR/BE
TRANSFER CASE - NV231HD (Continued)

INSPECTION
MAINSHAFT/SPROCKET/HUB
Inspect the splines on the hub and shaft and the
teeth on the sprocket (Fig. 41). Minor nicks and
scratches can be smoothed with an oilstone, however,
replace any part that is damaged.
Check the contact surfaces in the sprocket bore
and on the mainshaft. Minor nicks and scratches can
be smoothed with 320-400 grit emery cloth but do not
try to salvage the shaft if nicks or wear is severe.
Inspect the spline teeth on the synchronizer hub. If
evidence of chipping or excessive wear is apparent,
replace the hub. The hooked end of each synchronizer
spring should be inserted in one of the struts. In
addition, the springs should not interfere with the
polished gear cone or inside diameters of the hub.
Inspect the stop ring for cracks and wear . Replace
the ring if necessary or if doubt exists over condition.
Check a replacement synchronizer ring for proper fit
on the cone with a minimum of wobble. Also check
the synchronizer struts for wear or damage.
INPUT GEAR AND PLANETARY CARRIER
Check the teeth on the gear (Fig. 42). Minor nicks
can be dressed off with an oilstone but replace the
gear if any teeth are broken, cracked, or chipped. The
bearing surface on the gear can be smoothed with
300-400 grit emery cloth if necessary.Examine the carrier body and pinion gears for
wear or damage. The carrier will have to be replaced
as an assembly if the body, pinion pins, or pinion
gears are damaged.
Check the lock ring and both thrust washers for
wear or cracks. Replace them if necessary. Also
replace the lock retaining ring if bent, distorted, or
broken.
SHIFT FORKS/HUBS/SLEEVES
Check condition of the shift forks and mode fork
shift rail (Fig. 43). Minor nicks on the shift rail can
be smoothed with 320-400 grit emery cloth.
Inspect the shift fork wear pads (Fig. 44). The
mode fork pads are serviceable and can be replaced if
necessary. The range fork pads are not serviceable.
The fork must be replaced as an assembly if the pads
are worn or damaged.
Check both of the sleeves for wear or damage,
especially on the interior teeth. Replace the sleeves if
wear or damage is evident.
REAR RETAINER COMPONENTS
Inspect the retainer components. Replace the bear-
ing if rough or noisy. Check the retainer for cracks or
wear in the bearing bore.
Inspect the retaining rings and washers. Replace
any part if distorted, bent, or broken. Reuse is not
recommended.
Fig. 41 Mainshaft Components
1 - DRIVE SPROCKET 5 - STRUTS
2 - STOP RING 6 - SYNCHRONIZER SPRINGS
3 - SYNCHRONIZER HUB 7 - MAINSHAFT
4 - RETAINING RING
21 - 832 TRANSFER CASE - NV231HDBR/BE
TRANSFER CASE - NV231HD (Continued)

Inspect rear extension bushing. Replace if worn or
scored.DRIVE CHAIN
Examine the drive chain and shaft bearings.
replace the chain if stretched, distorted, or if any of
the links bind. Replace the bearings if rough, or
noisy.
Fig. 42 Input Gear And Carrier Components
1 - PLANETARY CARRIER 4 - CARRIER LOCK RING
2 - REAR THRUST WASHER 5 - CARRIER LOCK RETAINING RING
3 - FRONT THRUST WASHER 6 - INPUT GEAR
Fig. 43 Shift Forks
1 - RANGE FORK
2 - MODE FORK AND RAIL
3 - MODE SPRING
Fig. 44 Shift Fork And Wear Pad Locations
1 - RANGE FORK
2 - MODE FORK
3 - WEAR PADS (SERVICEABLE)
4 - WEAR PADS (NON-SERVICEABLE)
BR/BETRANSFER CASE - NV231HD 21 - 833
TRANSFER CASE - NV231HD (Continued)