1997 JAGUAR XJ6 tyre pressure

3261 Jaguar XJ6
LIVING WITH YOUR JAGUAR XJ6
IntroductionPage 0•4
Notes for UK readersPage 0•4
Safety first!Page 0•5
Roadside repairs
IntroductionPage 0•6
If your car won’t startPage 0•6
Jump startingPage 0•7
Wheel changingPage 0•8
Identifying leaksPage 0•9
TowingPage 0•9
Weekly checks
IntroductionPage 0•10
Underbonnet check points Page 0•10
Engine oil levelPage 0•11
Coolant levelPage 0•11
Brake fluid levelPage 0•12
Screen washer fluid level Page 0•12
Power steering fluid level Page 0•13
Wiper bladesPage 0•13
Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14
BatteryPage 0•15
Bulbs and fusesPage 0•15
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressuresPage 0•16
MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicingPage 1•1
Servicing specificationsPage 1•2
Maintenance schedulePage 1•3
Maintenance procedures Page 1•6
Contents

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•8Roadside repairs
The spare wheel and tools are stored in
the boot. Remove the carpet cover then
unscrew the retainer and lift out the spare
wheel from the boot.
Wheel changing
Some of the details shown here will vary
according to model. For instance, the location
of the spare wheel and jack is not the same
on all cars. However, the basic principles
apply to all vehicles.Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by
other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of
passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by
the job in hand.
Finally...
MRemove the wheel chocks.
MCheck the tyre pressure on the wheel just
fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a
pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to
the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to
the right pressure.
MHave the damaged tyre or wheel repaired
as soon as possible.
Remove the plastic cover from the end of
the vehicle jack lifting point tube, nearest
to the wheel that is being changed.Slide the lifting bracket of the jack fully
into the lifting point tube. Make sure the
jack is located on firm ground.Raise the jack until the wheel is raised
clear of the ground. Unscrew the wheel
nuts and remove the wheel. Fit the spare
wheel and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten
the nuts then lower the vehicle to the ground.
With the vehicle on the ground, remove
the trim cap (where fitted) and slacken
each wheel nut by half a turn.Remove the jack and wheelbrace its
holder which is located behind the spare
wheel.123
4
Securely tighten the wheel nuts in a
diagonal sequence then (where necessary)
refit the wheel trim cap. Stow the tolls and
punctured wheel and back in the luggage
compartment and secure them in position.
Note that the wheel nuts should be slackened
and retightened to the specified torque at the
earliest possible opportunity.7
56
Preparation
MWhen a puncture occurs, stop as soon as
it is safe to do so.
MPark on firm level ground, if possible,
and well out of the way of other traffic.
MUse hazard warning lights if necessary. MIf you have one, use a warning triangle to
alert other drivers of your presence.
MApply the handbrake and engage first or
reverse gear (or Park on models with
automatic transmission.MChock the wheel diagonally opposite the
one being removed – a couple of large
stones will do for this.
MIf the ground is soft, use a flat piece of
wood to spread the load under the jack.
Changing the wheel

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•10Weekly checks
There are some very simple checks which
need only take a few minutes to carry out, but
which could save you a lot of inconvenience
and expense.
These "Weekly checks" require no great skill
or special tools, and the small amount of time
they take to perform could prove to be very
well spent, for example;MKeeping an eye on tyre condition and
pressures, will not only help to stop them
wearing out prematurely, but could also save
your life.
M
Many breakdowns are caused by electrical
problems. Battery-related faults are particularly
common, and a quick check on a regular basis
will often prevent the majority of
these.MIf your car develops a brake fluid leak, the
first time you might know about it is when
your brakes don't work properly. Checking
the level regularly will give advance warning of
this kind of problem.
MIf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost
of repairing any engine damage will be far
greater than fixing the leak, for example.
Introduction
§3.6 litre engine
(others similar)
Viewed from right-hand side
AEngine oil level dipstick
BEngine oil filler cap
CCoolant expansion tank
DBrake fluid reservoir
EScreen washer fluid reservoir
FBattery
GPower steering fluid reservoir
Underbonnet check points

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly checks0•11
Engine oil level
Before you start
4Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
The correct oilModern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and
tyre pressures”).
Car care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault finding”).
lAlways maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
If the oil level is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
The dipstick is located at the rear of the
engine on the left-hand side (see “Under-
bonnet check points” on page 0•10 for
exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick which should be between the
upper and lower marks. The “M” mark is
for use when checking the oil level after the
vehicle has been standing overnight; in this
case the oil level should be between the “M”
and upper level markings.Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add
the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often. Don’t overfill (see “Car care” left).
12
34
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.
Car care
lAdding coolant should not be necessary on
a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the
radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of
staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
lIt is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
Coolant level
The coolant level should be checked only
with the engine cold. The level is checked
in the expansion tank on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. Remove the
expansion tank pressure cap and check that
the coolant level is upto the base of filler neck.If topping up is necessary, add a mixture
of water and antifreeze to the expansion
tank until the coolant level is upto the
base of the filler neck. Once the level is
correct, securely refit the pressure cap.12

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly checks0•13
Power steering
fluid level
Before you start:
4Park the vehicle on level ground.
4Set the steering wheel straight-ahead.
4The engine should be turned off.
Safety first!
lThe need for frequent topping-up indicates
a leak, which should be investigated
immediately.
For the check to be
accurate, the steering must
not be turned once the
engine has been stopped.
Wipe clean the area around the reservoir
cap then remove the cap noting that it
unscrews in a clockwise direction (see
arrow on cap).1Wipe clean the cap dipstick then insert it
fully into the reservoir and withdraw it.2
Note the fluid level on the end of the
dipstick. If the fluid is cold (vehicle not
having been used) the fluid level should
be upto the COLD level marking (1). If the
vehicle has been driven and the fluid is hot
then the fluid level should be upto the upper
(HOT) level marking (2).3If necessary, top-up the reservoir with the
specified type of fluid (note that the type
of fluid differs according to model - see
“Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures” on
page 0•16). Once the level is correct, securely
refit the reservoir cap. Do not overfill the
reservoir.4
Wiper blades
Check the condition of the wiper blades:
if they are cracked or show signs of
deterioration, or if the glass swept area is
smeared, renew them. For maximum clarity of
vision, wiper blades should be renewed
annually.1To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm
fully away from the screen until it locks.
Swivel the blade then depress the locking
clip at the base of the mounting block and
slide the blade off the arm.2
Warning:
l This check applies only to
vehicles fitted with a separate
power steering system. For
vehicles fitted with power
steering where the fluid
reservoir is part of the power hydraulic
system, this weekly check is not
applicable.
l It is essential to use the correct power
steering fluid, this being dependent on the
year of manufacture and type of system
fitted. A label attached to the fluid
reservoir will indicate the specification of
fluid. However, if necessary refer to the
driver’s handbook supplied with the
vehicle or to your local Jaguar dealer.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
0•14Weekly checks
Tyre condition and pressure
It is very important that tyres are in good
condition, and at the correct pressure - having
a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous.
Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh
braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,
will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a
general rule, the front tyres wear out faster
than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from
front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in
more even wear. However, if this is
completely effective, you may have the
expense of replacing all four tyres at once!
Remove any nails or stones embedded in the
tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause
deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal thatthe tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so
that its point of penetration is marked. Then
immediately change the wheel, and have the
tyre repaired by a tyre dealer.
Regularly check the tyres for damage in the
form of cuts or bulges, especially in the
sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels,
and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and
outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for
signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage.
Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by
"kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may
also become dented or buckled. A new wheel
is very often the only way to overcome severe
damage.New tyres should be balanced when they are
fitted, but it may become necessary to re-
balance them as they wear, or if the balance
weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.
Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as
will the steering and suspension components.
Wheel imbalance is normally signified by
vibration, particularly at a certain speed
(typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is
felt only through the steering, then it is likely
that just the front wheels need balancing. If,
however, the vibration is felt through the
whole car, the rear wheels could be out of
balance. Wheel balancing should be carried
out by a tyre dealer or garage.
Tread Depth - visual check
The original tyres have tread wear safety
bands (B), which will appear when the tread
depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The
band positions are indicated by a triangular
mark on the tyre sidewall (A).1Tread Depth - manual check
Alternatively, tread wear can be
monitored with a simple, inexpensive device
known as a tread depth indicator gauge.2Tyre Pressure Check
Check the tyre pressures regularly with
the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre
pressures immediately after the vehicle has
been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.3
Tyre tread wear patterns
Shoulder Wear
Underinflation (wear on both sides)
Under-inflation will cause overheating of the
tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and
the tread will not sit correctly on the road
surface. This will cause a loss of grip and
excessive wear, not to mention the danger of
sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up.
Check and adjust pressures
Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)
Repair or renew suspension parts
Hard cornering
Reduce speed!
Centre Wear
Overinflation
Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the
centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with
reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of
shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.
Check and adjust pressures
If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s
tyres to the higher pressures specified for
maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t
forget to reduce the pressures to normal
afterwards.
Uneven Wear
Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of
wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and
garages can check and adjust the wheel
alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.
Incorrect camber or castor
Repair or renew suspension parts
Malfunctioning suspension
Repair or renew suspension parts
Unbalanced wheel
Balance tyres
Incorrect toe setting
Adjust front wheel alignment
Note: The feathered edge of the tread which
typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

0•16Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Lubricants and fluids
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil to API SG or higher (Duckhams QS, QXR, Hypergrade Plus,
Hypergrade, or 10W-40 Motor Oil)
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based (phosphate free) antifreeze
(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams Uni-Matic)
Differential:
Standard differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE EP90 to API GL5 (Duckhams 80W-90S Gear Oil)
Powr-lok differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE 90 to API GL5 (Duckhams Hypoid 90 DL)
Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)
Power steering (with separate reservoir) .dependent on year of manufacture and system fitted - refer to your Jaguar dealer
Power hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . Castrol or Jaguar hydraulic system mineral oil (HSMO) Refer to your Jaguar dealer
Tyre pressures
Note:Tyre pressures must always be checked with the tyres cold to ensure accuracy.
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Note:Jaguar state that the tyre pressures maybe reduced by up to 8 psi (0.6 bar) on the front tyres and 6 psi (0.4 bar) on the rear
tyres to increase the ride comfort. This is only allowable if the vehicle is not to be driven at speeds in excess of 100 mph (160 kmh);
if speeds are to exceed this, the tyres must be run at the specified pressures.
Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The
higher the engine’s performance, the greater
the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as
well as optimise power and economy.
Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest
technical standards, meeting and exceeding
the demands of all modern engines.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction
Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine
which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly
cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special
additives, forms a molecular barrier between
moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat
build-up.
• Cooling hot spots
Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based
coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion
chamber and pistons, where temperatures
may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists intransferring the heat to the engine cooling
system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow
over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.
• Cleaning the inner engine
Oil washes away combustion by-products
(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,
transporting them to the oil filter, and holding
the smallest particles in suspension until they
are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams
oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,
and on the road.
Engine oil types
Mineral oilsare the “traditional” oils,
generally suited to older engines and cars not
used in harsh conditions. Duckhams
Hypergrade Plus and Hypergradeare well
suited for use in most popular family cars.
Diesel oilssuch as Duckhams Dieselare
specially formulated for Diesel engines,
including turbocharged models and 4x4s.
Synthetic oilsare the state-of-the-art in
lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at
a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS,
for use in ultra-high performance engines.
Semi-synthetic oilsoffer high performance
engine protection, but at less cost than full
synthetic oils. Duckhams QXRis an ideal choice
for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.
For help with technical
queries on lubricants,
call Duckhams Oils
on 0181 290 8207
Choosing your engine oil
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

silencer and catalytic converter. If the
components can come in contact with the
body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust
system with new mounts.
5Check the running condition of the engine
by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe.
The exhaust deposits here are an indication of
engine state-of-tune. If the pipe is black and
sooty or coated with white deposits, the
engine is in need of a tune-up, including a
thorough fuel system inspection.
11 Braking system - general
check and adjustment
2
Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Use
brake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Note: For detailed photographs of the brake
system, refer to Chapter 9.
1In addition to the specified intervals, the
brakes should be inspected every time the
wheels are removed or whenever a defect is
suspected. Any of the following symptoms
could indicate a potential brake system
defect: The vehicle pulls to one side when the
brake pedal is depressed; the brakes make
squealing or dragging noises when applied;
brake pedal travel is excessive; the pedal
pulsates; brake fluid leaks, usually onto the
inside of the tyre or wheel.
2The disc brakes have built-in electrical wear
indicators which cause a warning lamp to
illuminate on the instrument panel when
they’re worn to the renewal point. When the
warning light comes on, replace the pads
immediately or expensive damage to the
discs can result.
3Loosen the wheel nuts.
4Raise the vehicle and place it securely on
axle stands.
5Remove the wheels.
Disc brakes
6There are two pads (an outer and an inner)
in each caliper. The pads are visible through
inspection holes in each caliper (see Haynes
Hint).
7Check the pad thickness by looking at each
end of the caliper and through the inspection
hole in the caliper body. If the lining material is
less than the thickness listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications, replace the pads. Note:Keep
in mind that the lining material is riveted or
bonded to a metal backing plate and the metal
portion is not included in this measurement.8If it is difficult to determine the exact
thickness of the remaining pad material by the
above method, or if you are at all concerned
about the condition of the pads, remove the
caliper(s), then remove the pads from the
calipers for further inspection (see Chapter 9).
9Once the pads are removed from the
calipers, clean them with brake cleaner and
re-measure them with a ruler or a vernier
caliper.
10Measure the disc thickness with a
micrometer to make sure that it still has
service life remaining. If any disc is thinner
than the specified minimum thickness,
replace it (refer to Chapter 9). Even if the disc
has service life remaining, check its condition.
Look for scoring, gouging and burned spots. If
these conditions exist, remove the disc and
have it resurfaced (see Chapter 9).
11Before refitting the wheels, check all
brake lines and hoses for damage, wear,
deformation, cracks, corrosion, leakage,
bends and twists, particularly in the vicinity of
the rubber hoses at the calipers (see
illustration). Check the clamps for tightness
and the connections for leakage. Make sure
that all hoses and lines are clear of sharp
edges, moving parts and the exhaust system.
If any of the above conditions are noted,
repair, reroute or replace the lines and/or
fittings as necessary (see Chapter 9).
Hydraulic brake servo check
12Sit in the driver’s seat and perform the
following sequence of tests.
13Start the engine, run it for about a minute
and turn it off. Then firmly depress the brake
several times - the pedal travel should
decrease with each application.
14With the brake fully depressed, start the
engine - the pedal should move down a little
when the engine starts.
15Depress the brake, stop the engine and
hold the pedal in for about 30 seconds - the
pedal should neither sink nor rise.
16If your brakes do not operate as
described above when the preceding tests
are performed, the brake servo is either in
need of repair or has failed. Refer to Chapter 9
for the removal procedure.
Handbrake
17Slowly pull up on the handbrake and
count the number of clicks you hear until the
handle is up as far as it will go. The
adjustment should be within the specified
number of clicks listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications. If you hear more or fewer
clicks, it’s time to adjust the handbrake (refer
to Chapter 9).
18An alternative method of checking the
handbrake is to park the vehicle on a steep hill
with the handbrake set and the transmission
in Neutral (be sure to stay in the vehicle during
this check!). If the handbrake cannot prevent
the vehicle from rolling, it is in need of
adjustment (see Chapter 9). Whenever a fault
is suspected, the brake discs should be
removed and the handbrake assemblies
themselves should be visually inspected.
12 Steering
and suspension check
2
Note: The steering linkage and suspension
components should be checked periodically.
Worn or damaged suspension and steering
linkage components can result in excessive
and abnormal tyre wear, poor ride quality and
vehicle handling and reduced fuel economy.
For detailed illustrations of the steering and
suspension components, refer to Chapter 10.
With the wheels on the ground
1Park the vehicle on level ground, turn the
engine off and set the handbrake. Check the
tyre pressures and check that the wheel nuts
are tightened to the specified torque.
2Push down at one corner of the vehicle,
then release it while noting the movement of
the body. It should stop moving and come to
rest in a level position with one or two
bounces. When bouncing the vehicle up and
down, listen for squeaks and noises from the
suspension components.
3If the vehicle continues to move up-and-
down or if it fails to return to its original
1•12Every 7500 miles or 6 months
11.11 Check along the brake hoses
and at each fitting (arrowed) for
deterioration and cracks
3261 Jaguar XJ6
You will find an inspection hole like this
in each caliper - placing a ruler across
the hole should enable you to determine
the thickness of remaining pad material
for both inner and outer pads