1997 JAGUAR XJ6 service schedule

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures moreoften. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.
Maintenance schedule 1•3
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly, or every 250 miles (400 km)
m mCarry out all the operations given in “Weekly
checks”at the start of this manual.
m
mRenew the fuel filter (Section 18)
m mCheck the ignition system components (Section 19)
m mCheck the crankcase ventilation system
(Section 20)
m mCheck the condition and tension of the drivebelt(s)
(Section 21)
m mCheck the front wheel bearing adjustment and
repack with grease (Section 22)
m mCheck the propshaft fasteners are tightened to the
specified torque (Section 23)
m mCheck the front wheel alignment (Section 24)
m mCheck the headlight beam alignment (Section 25)
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km)
or 6 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
m mCheck the spark plugs (Section 4)
m mCheck the power hydraulics fluid level (Section 5)
m mCheck the battery (Section 6)
m mCheck all pipes and hoses for signs of damage or
leakage (Section 7)
m mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 8)
m mCheck the differential oil level (Section 9)
m mCheck the condition of the exhaust system
(Section 10)
m mCheck the brake pads and discs for wear and
adjust the handbrake (Section 11)
m mCheck the steering and suspension components
for wear or damage and check the wheel nuts are
tightened to the correct torque (Section 12)
m mCheck the condition of the seat belts (Section 13)
m mLubricate all locks and hinges, and exposed cables
(Section 14)
m mCarry out a road test (Section 15)
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
m
mRenew the coolant (Section 30)
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m
mCheck the handbrake shoes for wear (Section 29)
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km)
or 2 years, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the automatic transmission fluid and filter
(Section 26)
m mRenew the differential oil (Section 27)
m mRenew the brake fluid (Section 28)
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km)
or 12 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs (Section 16)
m mRenew the air cleaner element (Section 17)

1 General information
1This Chapter is designed to help the home
mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,
economy, long life and peak performance.
2The Chapter contains a master
maintenance schedule, followed by Sections
dealing specifically with each task in the
schedule. Visual checks, adjustments,
component renewal and other helpful items
are included. Refer to the accompanying
illustrations of the engine compartment and
the underside of the vehicle for the locations
of the various components.
3Servicing your vehicle in accordance with
the mileage/time maintenance schedule and
the following Sections will provide a planned
maintenance programme, which should result
in a long and reliable service life. This is a
comprehensive plan, so maintaining some
items but not others at the specified service
intervals, will not produce the same results.
4As you service your vehicle, you will
discover that many of the procedures can -
and should - be grouped together, because of
the particular procedure being performed, or
because of the proximity of two otherwise-
unrelated components to one another. For
example, if the vehicle is raised for any
reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the
same time as the suspension and steering
components.
5The first step in this maintenance
programme is to prepare yourself before the
actual work begins. Read through all theSections relevant to the work to be carried out,
then make a list and gather all the parts and
tools required. If a problem is encountered,
seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer
service department.
2 Intensive maintenance
1If, from the time the vehicle is new, the
routine maintenance schedule is followed
closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid
levels and high-wear items, as suggested
throughout this manual, the engine will be
kept in relatively good running condition, and
the need for additional work will be minimised.
2It is possible that there will be times when
the engine is running poorly due to the lack of
regular maintenance. This is even more likely
if a used vehicle, which has not received
regular and frequent maintenance checks, is
purchased. In such cases, additional work
may need to be carried out, outside of the
regular maintenance intervals.
3If engine wear is suspected, a compression
test (refer to Chapter 2) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the extent
of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a
compression test indicates serious internal
engine wear, conventional maintenance as
described in this Chapter will not greatly
improve the performance of the engine, and
may prove a waste of time and money, unless
extensive overhaul work is carried out first.4The following series of operations are those
which are most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:
Primary operations
a) Clean, inspect and test the battery
(Section 6).
b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer
to “Weekly checks”).
c) Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21).
d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 16).
e) Inspect the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 19).
f) Check the condition of the air filter, and
renew if necessary (Section 17).
g) Renew the fuel filter (Section 18).
h) Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 7).
i) Check the exhaust gas emissions (see
Chapter 6).
5If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:
a) Check the charging system (refer to
Chapter 5).
b) Check the ignition system (refer to
Chapter 5).
c) Check the fuel system (refer to Chapter 4).
d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 19).
e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 19).
1•6Maintenance procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km) or 6 months
3 Engine oil and filter renewal
2
1Frequent oil changes are the best
preventive maintenance the home mechanic
can give the engine, because ageing oil
becomes diluted and contaminated, which
leads to premature engine wear.
2Make sure that you have all the necessary
tools before you begin this procedure (see
illustration). You should also have plenty of
rags or newspapers handy for mopping up
any spills.
3Access to the underside of the vehicle is
greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on
a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by
axle stands.
4If this is your first oil change, get under the
vehicle and familiarise yourself with the
location of the oil drain plug. The engine and
3.2 These tools are required when
changing the engine oil and filter
1 Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in
depth, but wide in order to prevent spills
2 Rubber gloves - When removing the drain
plug and filter, it is inevitable that you will
get oil on your hands (the gloves will
prevent burns)
3 Breaker bar - Sometimes the oil drain plug
is pretty tight and a long breaker bar is
needed to loosen it
4 Socket – To be used with the breaker bar
or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit
the drain plug)
5 Filter wrench - This is a metal band-type
wrench, which requires clearance around
the filter to be effective
6 Filter wrench - This type fits on the bottom
of the filter and can be turned with a
ratchet or breaker bar (different size
spanners are available for different types of
filters)

6Refit the compression gauge in the spark
plug hole (see illustration).
7Crank the engine over at least seven
compression strokes and watch the gauge.
The compression should build up quickly in a
healthy engine. Low compression on the first
stroke, followed by gradually increasing
pressure on successive strokes, indicates
worn piston rings. A low compression reading
on the first stroke, which doesn’t build up
during successive strokes, indicates leaking
valves or a blown cylinder head gasket (a
cracked cylinder head could also be the
cause). Deposits on the undersides of the
valve heads can also cause low compression.
Record the highest gauge reading obtained.
8Repeat the procedure for the remaining
cylinders and compare the results to this
Chapter’s Specifications.
9Add some engine oil (about three squirts
from a plunger-type oil can) to each cylinder,
through the spark plug hole, and repeat the
test.
10If the compression increases after the oil
is added, the piston rings are definitely worn.
If the compression doesn’t increase
significantly, the leakage is occurring at the
valves or cylinder head gasket. Leakage past
the valves may be caused by burned valve
seats and/or faces or warped, cracked or bent
valves.
11If two adjacent cylinders have equally low
compression, there’s a strong possibility that
the cylinder head gasket between them is
blown. The appearance of coolant in the
combustion chambers or the crankcase
would verify this condition.
12If one cylinder is 20 percent lower than the
others, and the engine has a slightly rough
idle, a worn exhaust lobe on the camshaft
could be the cause.
13If the compression is unusually high, the
combustion chambers are probably coated
with carbon deposits. If that’s the case, the
cylinder head(s) should be removed and
decarbonised.
14If compression is way down or varies
greatly between cylinders, it would be a goodidea to have a leak-down test performed by
an automotive repair workshop. This test will
pinpoint exactly where the leakage is
occurring and how severe it is.
5 Engine removal-
methods and precautions
If you’ve decided that an engine must be
removed for overhaul or major repair work,
several preliminary steps should be taken.
Locating a suitable place to work is
extremely important. Adequate work space,
along with storage space for the vehicle, will
be needed. If a workshop or garage isn’t
available, at the very least a flat, level, clean
work surface made of concrete or asphalt is
required.
Cleaning the engine compartment and
engine before beginning the removal
procedure will help keep tools clean and
organised.
An engine hoist or A-frame will also be
necessary. Make sure the equipment is rated
in excess of the combined weight of the
engine and transmission. Safety is of primary
importance, considering the potential hazards
involved in lifting the engine out of the vehicle.
If the engine is being removed by a novice,
a helper should be available. Advice and aid
from someone more experienced would also
be helpful. There are many instances when
one person cannot simultaneously perform all
of the operations required when lifting the
engine out of the vehicle.
Plan the operation ahead of time. Arrange
for or obtain all of the tools and equipment
you’ll need prior to beginning the job. Some of
the equipment necessary to perform engine
removal and refitting safely and with relative
ease are (in addition to an engine hoist) a
heavy duty trolley jack, complete sets of
spanners and sockets as described in the
front of this manual, wooden blocks and
plenty of rags and cleaning solvent for
mopping up spilled oil, coolant and petrol. If
the hoist must be rented, make sure that you
arrange for it in advance and perform all of the
operations possible without it beforehand.
This will save you money and time.
Plan for the vehicle to be out of use for
quite a while. A machine workshop will be
required to perform some of the work which
the do-it-yourselfer can’t accomplish without
special equipment. These shops often have a
busy schedule, so it would be a good idea to
consult them before removing the engine in
order to accurately estimate the amount of
time required to rebuild or repair components
that may need work.
Always be extremely careful when removing
and refitting the engine. Serious injury can
result from careless actions. Plan ahead, take
your time and a job of this nature, although
major, can be accomplished successfully.
6 Engine- removal and refitting
3
Note:Read through the entire Section before
beginning this procedure. It is recommended
to remove the engine and transmission from
the top as a unit, then separate the engine
from the transmission on the workshop floor. If
the transmission is not being serviced, it is
possible to leave the transmission in the
vehicle and remove the engine from the top by
itself, by removing the crankshaft damper and
tilting up the front end of the engine for
clearance,but access to the upper
bellhousing bolts is only practical when the
rear transmission mount and driveshaft have
been removed and the transmission is angled
down with a trolley jack.
Removal
1Relieve the fuel system pressure (see
Chapter 4).
2Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
3Place protective covers on the wings and
cowl and remove the bonnet (see Chapter 11).
4Remove the battery and battery tray.
5Remove the air cleaner assembly (see
Chapter 4).
6Raise the vehicle and support it securely on
axle stands. Drain the cooling system and
engine oil and remove the drivebelts (see
Chapter 1).
7Clearly label, then disconnect all vacuum
lines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiring
harness connectors and earth straps.
Masking tape and/or a touch up paint
applicator work well for marking items (see
illustration). Take instant photos or sketch
the locations of components and brackets.
8Remove the cooling fan(s) and radiator (see
Chapter 3).
9Disconnect the heater hoses.
10Release the residual fuel pressure in the
tank by removing the petrol cap, then detach
the fuel lines connecting the engine to the
chassis (see Chapter 4). Plug or cap all open
fittings.
2B•4 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
4.6 A compression gauge with a threaded
fitting for the spark plug hole is preferred
over the type that requires hand pressure
to maintain the seal - be sure to block
open the throttle valve as far as possible
during the compression check!
6.7 Label both ends of each wire and hose
before disconnecting it
3261 Jaguar XJ6