1997 JAGUAR XJ6 low beam

These models are equipped with dual overhead cam in-line six-
cylinder engines. The engines feature a computer-controlled ignition
system and electronic fuel injection. Transmissions are a four-speed
automatic equipped with a lock-up torque converter. The transmission
is mounted to the back of the engine, and power is transmitted to the
fully independent rear axle through a two-piece propshaft. The
differential is bolted solidly to a frame crossmember and drives the
wheels through driveshafts equipped with inner and outer U-joints.
The front suspension is fitted with upper and lower control arms, coil
springs and shock absorbers. The rear suspension is an independent
type suspension which also have coil spring/shock absorber
assemblies and a lower control arm. The rear driveshaft acts as the
upper control arm.
Power-assisted Anti-lock Brake Systems (ABS) with four-wheel disc
brakes are standard equipment on all Jaguar XJ6 models covered in
this manual. Power rack-and-pinion steering is also standard
equipment.
Your Jaguar manual
The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your
vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work
must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It
will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and
give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults
occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the
work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the
car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps
most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a
garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.
The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of
the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks
are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.
Notes for UK readers
Because this manual was originally written in the US, its layout
differs from our UK-originated manuals. The preliminary and reference
sections have been re-written specifically for the UK market, and the
maintenance schedule has been amended to suit UK vehicles.
However, it will be noticed that some references to componentsremain in the US style; the UK equivalent of US components and
various other US words is given in the Section headed “Use of
English”. It should be remembered that the project vehicle used in the
main Chapters of this manual was a left-hand drive US model;
therefore, the position of the steering wheel, steering column and
pedals, etc. will be on the opposite side of the vehicle on UK models.
References to “right” and “left” will need to be considered carefully to
decide which applies to UK models (eg the headlight dipped beams
should be adjusted to dip to the left of the headlight vertical line
described in Chapter 12, instead of to the right on US models). In other
instances, no reference is made to the location of a particular item, but
that item may be located on the opposite side of the vehicle on UK
models. Reference to the underbonnet photos at the start of Chapter 1
will give the reader the location of the engine compartment
components on UK models.
All specifications in the main Chapters of the manual appear in
Imperial form; the equivalent metric values can be calculated using the
“Conversion factors”page.
The only other major difference between UK and US models is in the
level of emission control equipment fitted to the vehicle. To meet the
strict emission standards present in the US, all vehicles for that market
are fitted with various emission control systems (see Chapter 6), most
of which are not fitted to the corresponding UK model, especially so on
early models. Therefore, a lot of the information contained in Chapter 6
is not applicable to UK models.
Acknowledgements
Thanks are due to Jean Preis, Rich Wilson and Ray Marcuse of
Silver Star Jaguar (Thousand Oaks, CA), Rick Calaci of Conejo Imports
(Newbury Park, CA) and Jim Strohmeier and Jonathan Lund of British
Motor Cars (Thousand Oaks, CA), for providing valuable technical
information. Technical writers who contributed to this project include
Jeff Kibler, Robert Maddox and Jay Storer.
We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this
manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design
changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which
they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors
or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or
omissions from, the information given.
0•4Introduction
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with 1989 Jaguar XJ6

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the
assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work.
These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for
vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition
at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures moreoften. We encourage frequent maintenance, because it enhances the
efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.
When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a factory-
authorised dealer service department, in order to preserve the factory
warranty.
Maintenance schedule 1•3
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly, or every 250 miles (400 km)
m mCarry out all the operations given in “Weekly
checks”at the start of this manual.
m
mRenew the fuel filter (Section 18)
m mCheck the ignition system components (Section 19)
m mCheck the crankcase ventilation system
(Section 20)
m mCheck the condition and tension of the drivebelt(s)
(Section 21)
m mCheck the front wheel bearing adjustment and
repack with grease (Section 22)
m mCheck the propshaft fasteners are tightened to the
specified torque (Section 23)
m mCheck the front wheel alignment (Section 24)
m mCheck the headlight beam alignment (Section 25)
Every 7500 miles (12 000 km)
or 6 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)
m mCheck the spark plugs (Section 4)
m mCheck the power hydraulics fluid level (Section 5)
m mCheck the battery (Section 6)
m mCheck all pipes and hoses for signs of damage or
leakage (Section 7)
m mCheck the automatic transmission fluid level
(Section 8)
m mCheck the differential oil level (Section 9)
m mCheck the condition of the exhaust system
(Section 10)
m mCheck the brake pads and discs for wear and
adjust the handbrake (Section 11)
m mCheck the steering and suspension components
for wear or damage and check the wheel nuts are
tightened to the correct torque (Section 12)
m mCheck the condition of the seat belts (Section 13)
m mLubricate all locks and hinges, and exposed cables
(Section 14)
m mCarry out a road test (Section 15)
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage
m
mRenew the coolant (Section 30)
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m
mCheck the handbrake shoes for wear (Section 29)
Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km)
or 2 years, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the automatic transmission fluid and filter
(Section 26)
m mRenew the differential oil (Section 27)
m mRenew the brake fluid (Section 28)
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km)
or 12 months, whichever comes first
In addition to the operations listed previously, carry out the following:
m mRenew the spark plugs (Section 16)
m mRenew the air cleaner element (Section 17)

and old bearings should never be installed on
new races.
15Use high-temperature front wheel bearing
grease to pack the bearings. Work the grease
completely into the bearings, forcing it
between the rollers, cone and cage from the
back side (see illustration).
16Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle
at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat,
shoulder and seal seat.
17Put a small quantity of grease inboard of
each bearing race inside the hub. Using your
finger, form a dam at these points to provide
extra grease availability and to keep thinned
grease from flowing out of the bearing (see
illustration).
18Place the grease-packed inner bearing
into the rear of the hub and put a little more
grease outboard of the bearing.
19Place a new seal over the inner bearing
and tap the seal evenly into place until it’s
flush with the hub (see illustration).
20Carefully place the hub assembly onto the
spindle and push the grease-packed outer
bearing into position (see illustration).
Adjustment
21Refit the washer and spindle nut. Tighten
the nut only slightly (no more than 16Nm/12
lbf ft of torque).
22Rotate the hub slowly in a forward
direction while tightening the spindle nut toapproximately 27Nm (20 lbf ft) to seat the
bearings. Remove any grease or burrs which
could cause excessive bearing play later.
23Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then
using your hand (not a spanner of any kind),
tighten the nut until it’s snug. Refit the nut lock
and a new cotter pin through the hole in the
spindle and the slots in the nut lock. If the
nut lock slots don’t line up, remove the nut
lock and turn it slightly until they do (see
illustration).
24Bend the ends of the cotter pin until
they’re flat against the nut. Cut off any extra
length which could interfere with the dust cap.
25Refit the dust cap, tapping it into place
with a hammer.
26Refit the brake disc and caliper in the
reverse order of removal (see Chapter 9).
27Refit the wheel on the hub and tighten the
wheel nuts.
28Grasp the top and bottom of the tyre and
check the bearings in the manner described
earlier in this Section.
29Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel
nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
23 Propshaft check
2
1Referring to Chapter 8, check the propshaft
centre bearing, universal joint and flexible
coupling for signs of wear or damage and
check that the propshaft fixings are tightened
to the specified torque.
24 Front wheel alignment check
5
1Accurate wheel alignment requires access
to specialised test equipment and as such
should be entrusted to a suitably equipped
Jaguar dealer or a tyre specialist (refer to
Chapter 10).
25 Headlight beam check
5
1Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
is only possible using optical beam-setting
equipment, and this work should therefore be
carried out by a Jaguar dealer or garage with
the necessary facilities (see Chapter 12).
1•18Every 15 000 miles or 12 months
22.15 Work the grease completely into the
bearing rollers22.17 Apply a thin layer of grease to the
inner and outer bearing races22.19 After refitting the inner wheel
bearing into the hub - press the grease
seal into place
22.20 Refit the hub assembly onto the
spindle - then push the grease-packed
outer bearing into position22.23 Position the nut lock on the spindle
nut so that it lines up with the cotter pin
hole - DO NOT loosen the spindle nut from
its snug position
3261 Jaguar XJ6

model but the designations are the same.
Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of
Chapter 12.
f) Start the engine and check the alternator
for abnormal noises (a shrieking or
squealing sound indicates a bad bushing).
g) Check the specific gravity of the battery
electrolyte. If it’s low, charge the battery
(doesn’t apply to maintenance free
batteries).
h) Make sure that the battery is fully charged
(one bad cell in a battery can cause
overcharging by the alternator).
i) Disconnect the battery cables (negative
first, then positive). Caution:If the stereo
in your vehicle is equipped with an anti-
theft system, make sure you have the
correct activation code before
disconnecting the battery. Inspect the
battery posts and the cable clamps for
corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if
necessary (see Chapter 1). Reconnect the
positive cable, then the negative cable.
2Using a voltmeter, check the battery
voltage with the engine off. It should be
approximately 12 volts (see illustration).
3Start the engine and check the battery
voltage again. It should now be approximately
13.5 to 15.1 volts.
4Turn on the headlights. The voltage should
drop and then come back up, if the charging
system is working properly.
5If the voltage reading is greater than the
specified charging voltage, renew the
alternator.
6If you have an ammeter, connect it up to the
charging system according to its maker’s
instructions. If you don’t have a professional-
type ammeter, you can also use an inductive-
type current indicator. This device is
inexpensive, readily available at car accessory
outlets and accurate enough to perform simple
amperage checks like the following test.7With the engine running at 2000 rpm, check
the reading on the ammeter with all
accessories and lights off (no load), then again
with the high-beam headlights on and the
heater blower switch turned to the HI position
(full load). Compare your readings to the
standard amperage listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
8If the ammeter reading is less than standard
amperage, repair or renew the alternator.
9If the alternator is working but the charging
system still does function properly, check the
operation of the load dump module (see
illustration). Have this component checked at
a dealer service department.
12 Alternator-
removal and refitting
2
1Detach the cable from the negative terminal
of the battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.2Detach the electrical connectors from the
alternator.
3Loosen the alternator adjustment and pivot
bolts (see illustration) and detach the
drivebelt.
4Remove the adjustment and pivot bolts
(see illustration)from the alternator
adjustment bracket.
5If you are replacing the alternator, take the
old alternator with you when purchasing a
replacement unit. Make sure that the
new/rebuilt unit is identical to the old
alternator. Look at the terminals - they should
be the same in number, size and locations as
the terminals on the old alternator. Finally,
look at the identification markings - they will
be stamped in the housing or printed on a tag
or plaque affixed to the housing. Make sure
that these numbers are the same on both
alternators.
6Many new/rebuilt alternators do not have
a pulley installed, so you may have to switch
the pulley from the old unit to the new/rebuilt
one. When buying an alternator, find out the
policy regarding refitting of pulleys - some
shops will perform this service free of charge.
7Refitting is the reverse of removal.
5•6 Engine electrical systems
12.3 Loosen the lock bolt and back-off
the adjustment bolt (arrowed) to remove
the drivebelt12.4 Remove the pivot bolt and nut
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.2 Connect the probes of a voltmeter to the battery terminals
and observe battery voltage with the engine OFF
and then with the engine running
11.9 The load dump module is located on the bulkhead
next to the MAF sensor

6If the voltage is 6 volts, the element is okay
(there is no break). If the voltage is 12 volts,
the element is broken between the centre
of the element and the positive end. If the
voltage is 0 volts the element is broken
between the centre of the element and earth.
7To find the break, place the voltmeter
positive lead against the defogger positive
terminal. Place the voltmeter negative lead
with the foil strip against the heating element
at the positive terminal end and slide it toward
the negative terminal end. The point at which
the voltmeter deflects from zero to several
volts is the point at which the heating element
is broken (see illustration).
Repair
8Repair the break in the element using a
repair kit specifically recommended for this
purpose.
9Prior to repairing a break, turn off the system
and allow it to cool off for a few minutes.
10Lightly buff the element area with fine
steel wool, then clean it thoroughly with
rubbing alcohol.
11Use masking tape to mask off the area
being repaired.
12Thoroughly mix the epoxy, following the
instructions provided with the repair kit.
13Apply the epoxy material to the slit in the
masking tape, overlapping the undamaged
area about 3/4-inch on either end (see
illustration).
14Allow the repair to cure for 24 hours before
removing the tape and using the system.
17 Headlights- renewal
1
Warning: Later models are
equipped with halogen gas-filled
headlight bulbs which are underpressure and may shatter if the surface is
damaged or the bulb is dropped. Wear eye
protection and handle the bulbs carefully,
grasping only the base whenever possible.
Do not touch the surface of the bulb with
your fingers because the oil from your skin
could cause it to overheat and fail
prematurely. If you do touch the bulb
surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol.
Sealed beam units
1Remove the radiator grille (see Chapter 11).
2Detach the headlight bezel trim cover (see
illustration).
3Remove the headlight bezel (see
illustrations).
4Remove the screws which secure the
retaining ring and withdraw the ring. Support
the light as this is done (see illustration).
Body electrical system 12•9
12
16.13 Apply masking tape to the inside of
the window at the damaged area, then
brush on the special conductive coating17.2 Remove the screws (arrowed) and
detach the headlight bezel trim cover
17.3a Remove the two retaining screws
at the top and the one in the grille opening
(arrowed)17.3b The retaining screw at the
outside lower corner can be accessed
from under the bumper
3261 Jaguar XJ6 16.5 To determine if a heating element has broken, check the
voltage at the centre of each element. If the voltage is 6-volts, the
element is unbroken; if the voltage is 12-volts, the element is
broken between the centre and the positive end. If there is no
voltage, the element is broken between the centre and earth
16.7 To find the break, place the voltmeter positive lead against
the heated window positive terminal, place the voltmeter negative
lead with the foil strip against the heating element at the positive
terminal end and slide it toward the negative terminal end -
the point at which the voltmeter reading changes abruptly is the
point at which the element is broken

5Pull the headlight out slightly and
disconnect the electrical connector from the
rear of the light, then remove the light from the
vehicle.
6To refit, position the new unit close enough
to connect the electrical connector. Make
sure that the numbers moulded into the lens
are at the top.
7Refit and tighten the retaining ring. Test the
headlight operation.
8The remainder of the refitting is the reverse
of removal.
Halogen gas-filled bulbs
9Disconnect the electrical connector from
the bulb assembly. Rotate the headlight bulb
connector 1/4-turn anti-clockwise (viewed
from the rear) (see illustration).
10Withdraw the bulb assembly from the
headlight housing.
11Without touching the glass with your bare
fingers (see the Warningat the start of the
Section), insert the new bulb assembly into
the headlight housing and rotate the bulb
socket 1/4-turn clockwise to refit it.
12Plug in the electrical connector and test
headlight operation.
18 Headlights- adjustment
5
Note:The following procedure is intended for
emergency use only, and we strongly
recommend that the headlight aim is only
checked using optical beam-setting
equipment. It is important that the headlights
are aimed correctly. If adjusted incorrectly
they could blind the driver of an oncoming
vehicle and cause a serious accident or
seriously reduce your ability to see the road.
The headlights should be checked for proper
aim every 12 months and any time a new
headlight is installed or front end body work is
performed.
1Adjustment should be made with the
vehicle sitting level, the petrol tank half-full
and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle.2Early models with sealed beam headlights
have four adjusting knobs protruding through
the backside of the radiator support. The
vertical (up and down) adjustment knobs are
located above the headlight and the horizontal
(left to right) adjusting knobs are located
below the headlight (see illustration).
3On later models with halogen bulbs,
adjustments are made in the same manner as
described in the previous step, except there
are only two adjusting knobs which tilt the
headlight housing to the desired angle.
4If the headlight housing has been replacedor the vehicle has suffered front-end damage,
refer to following procedure.
5This method requires a blank wall, masking
tape and a level floor.
6Position masking tape vertically on the wall
in reference to the vehicle centreline and the
centrelines of both headlights (see
illustration).
7Position a horizontal tape line in reference
to the centreline of all the headlights. Note:It
may be easier to position the tape on the wall
with the vehicle parked only a few inches
away.
12•10 Body electrical system
3261 Jaguar XJ618.2 The headlight horizontal
adjustment knob (A) is located at the
top of the headlight and the vertical
adjustment knob (B) is below the headlight
17.4 Loosen the retaining ring screws
(arrowed) a few turns - rotate the retaining
ring anti-clockwise to remove it17.9 Disconnect the electrical connector
and rotate the bulb assembly 1/4-turn
anti-clockwise
18.6 Headlight
adjustment details

8Adjustment should be made with the
vehicle parked 25 feet from the wall, sitting
level, the petrol tank half-full and no unusually
heavy load in the vehicle.
9Starting with the low beam adjustment,
position the high intensity zone so it is two
inches below the horizontal line and two
inches to the right of the headlight vertical
line. Adjustments are made by turning the
knobs located behind the headlight housings
(see illustration 18.2).
10With the high beams on, the high intensity
zone should be vertically centred with the
exact centre just below the horizontal line.
Note:It may not be possible to position the
headlight aim exactly for both high and low
beams. If a compromise must be made, keep
in mind that the low beams are the most used
and have the greatest effect on safety.
11Have the headlights adjusted by a dealer
service department or service station at the
earliest opportunity.
19 Headlight housing
(1992 to 1994 models)-
removal and refitting
1
Warning: These vehicles are
equipped with halogen gas-filled
headlight bulbs which are under
pressure and may shatter if the
surface is damaged or the bulb is dropped.
Wear eye protection and handle the bulbs
carefully, grasping only the base whenever
possible. Do not touch the surface of the
bulb with your fingers because the oil from
your skin could cause it to overheat and
fail prematurely. If you do touch the bulb
surface, clean it with rubbing alcohol.
1Remove the headlight bulb (Section 17).
2Remove the retaining nuts, detach the
housing and withdraw it from the vehicle (see
illustration).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
20 Horn- check and renewal
2
Check
Note:Check the fuses before beginning
electrical diagnosis.
1Disconnect the electrical connector from
the horn.
2To test the horn, connect battery voltage to
the two terminals with a pair of jumper wires.
If the horn doesn’t sound, renew it.
3If the horn does sound, check for voltage at
the terminal when the horn button is
depressed (see illustration). If there’s voltage
at the terminal, check for a bad earth at the
horn.
4If there’s no voltage at the horn, check the
relay (see Section 6). Note that most horn
relays are either the four-terminal or externally
earthed three-terminal type.
5If the relay is OK, check for voltage to the
relay power and control circuits. If either of the
circuits are not receiving voltage, inspect the
wiring between the relay and the fuse panel.
6If both relay circuits are receiving voltage,
depress the horn button and check the circuit
from the relay to the horn button for continuityto earth. If there’s no continuity, check the
circuit for an open. If the circuit is good, renew
the horn button.
7If there’s continuity to earth through the
horn button, check for an open or short in the
circuit from the relay to the horn.Renewal
8Remove the radiator grille inserts (see
Chapter 11).
9Disconnect the electrical connector and
remove the retaining nuts securing the horn
brackets (see illustration).
10Refitting is the reverse of removal.
21 Bulb renewal
1
Front direction indicator/rear
parking and side marker lights
1Remove the lens retaining screws and the
lens (see illustration).
2Push inward and rotate the bulb anti-
clockwise to remove it from the holder.
3Renew the bulb, refit the lamp lens and test
the bulb operation.
Body electrical system 12•11
12
20.9 Disconnect the electrical connector,
remove the retaining nuts (arrowed) - then
detach the horn(s)21.1 The front direction indicator/rear
parking and side marker light bulbs are
accessible after removing the lens screws
3261 Jaguar XJ6 19.2 Remove the headlight housing retaining nuts (arrowed) from
the backside of the radiator support
20.3 Check for power at the horn terminal with the horn button
depressed

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•18Glossary of technical terms
A
ABS (Anti-lock brake system)A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleanerA metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air filter elementThe actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
Allen keyA hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clipA long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
AlternatorA component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
charge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
accessories.
Ampere (amp)A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealerA substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widely used.
AntifreezeA substance (usually ethylene
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-seize compoundA coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subjected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
AsbestosA natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
AxleA shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
AxleshaftA single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.
BBall bearingAn anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
BearingThe curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearingThe bearing in the end of
the connecting rod that’s attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nippleA valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air. Also called a bleed screw.
Brake bleedingProcedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake discThe component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.Brake drumThe component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake liningsThe friction material which
contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake padsThe replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoeThe crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systemsFor more information on
braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Breaker barA long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
BulkheadThe insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
CCaliperThe non-rotating part of a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and carries
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
object.
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.
Canister
Brake bleeding
Bearing
Air filter