1997 JAGUAR XJ6 radiator

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Safety first!0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly checks0•11
Engine oil level
Before you start
4Make sure that your car is on level ground.
4Check the oil level before the car is driven,
or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been
switched off.
The correct oilModern engines place great demands on their
oil. It is very important that the correct oil for
your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and
tyre pressures”).
Car care
l If you have to add oil frequently, you should
check whether you have any oil leaks. Place
some clean paper under the car overnight,
and check for stains in the morning. If there
are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil
(see “Fault finding”).
lAlways maintain the level between the
upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3).
If the level is too low severe engine damage
may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the
engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.
If the oil level is checked
immediately after driving the
vehicle, some of the oil will
remain in the upper engine
components, resulting in an inaccurate
reading on the dipstick!
The dipstick is located at the rear of the
engine on the left-hand side (see “Under-
bonnet check points” on page 0•10 for
exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.Using a clean rag or paper towel remove
all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean
dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,
then withdraw it again.
Note the oil level on the end of the
dipstick which should be between the
upper and lower marks. The “M” mark is
for use when checking the oil level after the
vehicle has been standing overnight; in this
case the oil level should be between the “M”
and upper level markings.Oil is added through the filler cap.
Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a
funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add
the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick
often. Don’t overfill (see “Car care” left).
12
34
Warning: DO NOT attempt to
remove the expansion tank
pressure cap when the engine
is hot, as there is a very great
risk of scalding. Do not leave
open containers of coolant
about, as it is poisonous.
Car care
lAdding coolant should not be necessary on
a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is
required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the
radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of
staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.
lIt is important that antifreeze is used in the
cooling system all year round, not just during
the winter months. Don’t top-up with water
alone, as the antifreeze will become too
diluted.
Coolant level
The coolant level should be checked only
with the engine cold. The level is checked
in the expansion tank on the left-hand
side of the engine compartment. Remove the
expansion tank pressure cap and check that
the coolant level is upto the base of filler neck.If topping up is necessary, add a mixture
of water and antifreeze to the expansion
tank until the coolant level is upto the
base of the filler neck. Once the level is
correct, securely refit the pressure cap.12

1•4Maintenance - component location
3261 Jaguar XJ6
1 Battery
2 Oil filler cap
3 Engine oil dipstick (not visible)
4 Automatic transmission
dipstick (not visible)
5 Brake fluid reservoir
6 Coolant reservoir
(expansion tank)
7 Air cleaner housing
8 Upper radiator hose
9 Spark plugs
10 Distributor
11 Windscreen washer fluid
reservoir
12 Power hydraulic system fluid
reservoir
13 Power steering fluid reservoir
Underbonnet view from the left-hand side of the vehicle Underbonnet view from the right-hand side of the vehicle
1 Battery
2 Oil filler cap
3 Engine oil dipstick (not visible)
4 Automatic transmission
dipstick (not visible)
5 Brake fluid reservoir
6 Coolant reservoir (expansion
tank)
7 Air cleaner housing
8 Upper radiator hose
9 Spark plugs
10 Distributor
11 Windscreen washer fluid
reservoir
12 Power hydraulic system fluid
reservoir
13 Power steering fluid reservoir

Maintenance - component location 1•5
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Front underbody view
1 Air conditioning compressor
2 Drivebelts
3 Anti-roll bar
4 Alternator
5 Lower radiator hose
6 Lower control arm
7 Steering gear boot
8 Steering gear
9 Engine sump drain plug
10 Exhaust system
11 Outer tie-rod end
Rear underbody view (typical)
1 Rear suspension control arms
2 Differential drain plug
3 Differential filler plug
(not visible)
4 Exhaust pipe
5 Driveshaft
6 Silencers
7 Handbrake cable
8 Fuel filter

leak be found, renew the offending gasket or
oil seal by referring to the appropriate
Chapters in this manual.
2Also check the security and condition of all
the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable ties or securing clips are in place
and in good condition. Clips which are broken
or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses,
pipes or wiring, which could cause more
serious problems in the future.
3Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose which is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if
the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention
to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks.
4Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the
cooling system will usually show up as white-
or rust-coloured deposits on the area
adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this
nature are found on system components,
renew the component or gasket with
reference to Chapter 3.
5From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
6Also check the condition of the power
steering fluid hoses and pipes.
8 Automatic transmission
fluid level check
1
1The level of the automatic transmission fluid
should be carefully maintained. Low fluid level
can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while
overfilling can cause foaming, loss of fluid and
transmission damage.
2The transmission fluid level should only be
checked when the transmission is at its
normal operating temperature.
Caution: If the vehicle has just been driven
for a long time at high speed or in city
traffic in hot weather, or if it has been
pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level
reading cannot be obtained. Allow the fluid
to cool down for about 30 minutes.
3If the vehicle has not been driven, park the
vehicle on level ground, set the handbrake,
then start the engine and bring it to operating
temperature. While the engine is idling,
depress the brake pedal and move the
selector lever through all the gear ranges,
beginning and ending in Park.
4With the engine still idling, remove the
dipstick from its tube (see illustration). Check
the level of the fluid on the dipstick (see
illustration)and note its condition.
5Wipe the fluid from the dipstick with a clean
rag and reinsert it back into the filler tube until
the cap seats.6Pull the dipstick out again and note the fluid
level. If the transmission is cold, the level
should be in the COLD or COOL range on the
dipstick. If it is hot, the fluid level should be in
the HOT range. If the level is at the low side of
either range, add the specified transmission
fluid through the dipstick tube with a funnel.
7Add just enough of the recommended fluid
to fill the transmission to the proper level. It
takes about one pint to raise the level from the
low mark to the high mark when the fluid is
hot, so add the fluid a little at a time and keep
checking the level until it is correct.
8The condition of the fluid should also be
checked along with the level. If the fluid at the
end of the dipstick is black or a dark reddish
brown colour, or if it emits a burned smell, the
fluid should be changed (see Section 26). If
you are in doubt about the condition of the
fluid, purchase some new fluid and compare
the two for colour and smell.9 Differential oil level check
1
1The differential has a check/fill plug which
must be removed to check the lubricant level.
If the vehicle is raised to gain access to the
plug, be sure to support it safely on axle
stands - DO NOT crawl under the vehicle
when it’s supported only by the jack!2Remove the lubricant check/fill plug from
the differential (see illustration).Use a
3/8-inch drive ratchet and a short extension to
unscrew the plug.
3Use your little finger as a dipstick to make
sure the lubricant level is even with the
bottom of the plug hole. If not, use a syringe
or squeeze bottle to add the recommended
lubricant until it just starts to run out of the
opening.
4Refit the plug and tighten it securely.
10 Exhaust system check
1
1With the engine cold (at least three hours
after the vehicle has been driven), check the
complete exhaust system from its starting
point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.
This should be done on a hoist where
unrestricted access is available.
2Check the pipes and connections for
evidence of leaks, severe corrosion or
damage. Make sure that all brackets and
hangers are in good condition and tight (see
illustration).
3At the same time, inspect the underside of
the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,
etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter
the passenger compartment. Seal all body
openings with silicone or body putty.
4Rattles and other noises can often be
traced to the exhaust system, especially the
mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes,
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•11
1
9.2 The differential check/fill plug is
located on the rear of the differential
housing - place your finger in the filler plug
hole to make sure the lubricant level is
even with the bottom of the hole
10.2 Check the exhaust system hangers
(arrowed) for damage and cracks
3261 Jaguar XJ6
8.4a The automatic transmission dipstick
(arrowed) is located in a tube which
extends forward from the transmission
8.4b Check the automatic transmission
fluid with the engine idling at operating
temperature and the gear selector in Park,
then add fluid to bring the level to the
upper mark

30 Coolant renewal
2
Warning: Do not allow engine
coolant (antifreeze) to come in
contact with your skin or painted
surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off
spills immediately with plenty of water.
Antifreeze is highly toxic if ingested. Never
leave antifreeze laying around in an open
container or in puddles on the floor;
children and pets are attracted by it’s
sweet smell and may drink it. Check with
local authorities about disposing of used
antifreeze. Your local authority may have
collection centres which will see that
antifreeze is disposed of safely.1Periodically, the cooling system should be
drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the
antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of
rust and corrosion, which can impair the
performance of the cooling system and
cause engine damage. When the cooling
system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator
cap should be checked and renewed if
necessary.
Draining
2Apply the handbrake and block the wheels.
If the vehicle has just been driven, wait several
hours to allow the engine to cool down before
beginning this procedure.
3Remove the expansion tank pressure cap
(see illustration).
4Move a large container under the radiator
drain to catch the coolant. Then using a largescrewdriver, open the radiator drain plug and
direct the coolant into the container (see
illustration).
27 Differential oil renewal
2
1Drive the car for several miles to warm up
the differential lubricant, then raise the car
and support it securely on axle stands.
2Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and
the required tools under the car.
3Remove the check/fill plug from the
differential. If necessary refer to Section 9 for
the check/fill plug location.
4With the drain pan under the differential,
use a ratchet and socket to loosen the drain
plug (see illustration). Note:A special pipe
plug socket may be required to complete this
procedure.
5Once loosened, carefully unscrew it with
your fingers until you can remove it from the
case. Since the lubricant will be hot, wear a
rubber glove to prevent burns.
6Allow all of the oil to drain into the pan, then
replace the drain plug and tighten it securely.
7Refer to Section 9 and fill the differential
with lubricant.
8Refit the fill plug and tighten it securely.
9Lower the vehicle. Check for leaks at the
drain plug after the first few miles of driving.
28 Brake fluid renewal
2
Warning: Brake fluid can harm
your eyes and damage painted
surfaces, so use extreme
caution when handling or
pouring it. Do not use brake fluid that has
been standing open or is more than oneyear old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from
the air. Excess moisture can cause a
dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.
1At the specified time intervals, the brake
fluid should be drained and renewed. Since
the brake fluid may drip or splash when
pouring it, place plenty of rags around the
master cylinder to protect any surrounding
painted surfaces.
2Before beginning work, purchase the
specified type of brake fluid.
3Remove the cap from the master cylinder
reservoir.
4Using a hand suction pump or similar
device, withdraw the fluid from the master
cylinder reservoir.
5Add new fluid to the master cylinder until it
rises to the base of the filler neck.
6Bleed the brake system as described in
Chapter 9 at all four brakes until new and
uncontaminated fluid flows from the bleed
screw.
7Refill the master cylinder with fluid and
check the operation of the brakes. The pedal
should feel solid when depressed, with no
sponginess.
Warning: Do not drive the car if
you are in any doubt about the
braking system.
1•20Every 30 000 miles or 2 years
27.4 The differential drain plug (arrowed)
is accessible through a hole located in the
middle of the differential support brace
30.3 Push the expansion tank pressure
cap downward and rotate anti-clockwise -
never remove it when the engine is hot!
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Every 60 000 miles (96 000 km)
29 Handbrake shoes check
2
1Remove the rear discs and inspect the
handbrake shoes as described in Chapter 9. If
the shoes are worn or damaged they must be
renewed.Warning: The dust created by
the brake system may contain
asbestos, which is harmful to
your health. Never blow it out
with compressed air and don’t inhale any
of it. An approved filtering mask should be
worn when working on the brakes. Do not,
under any circumstances, use petroleum-
based solvents to clean brake parts. Usebrake system cleaner only! Try to use non-
asbestos replacement parts whenever
possible.
Every 2 years, regardless of mileage

5After the coolant stops flowing out of the
radiator, move the container under the engine
block drain plug. Remove the plug and let the
coolant in the block to drain (see illustration).
6While the coolant is draining from the
engine block, check the condition of the
radiator hoses, heater hoses and clamps
(refer to Section 7 if necessary).
7Replace any damaged clamps or hoses
(see Chapter 3).
Flushing
8Once the system is completely drained,
flush the radiator with fresh water from agarden hose until water runs clear at the drain.
The flushing action of the water will remove
sediments from the radiator but will not
remove more serious rust and scale from the
engine and cooling tube surfaces.
9These deposits can be removed by using
proprietary chemical cleaners. It should be
stressed, however, that these should only
need to be used if the system has been
neglected. Follow the procedure outlined in
their manufacturer’s instructions. If the
radiator is severely corroded, damaged or
leaking, it should be removed (see Chapter 3)
and taken to a radiator repair workshop.10On 1988 and 1989 models remove the
overflow hose from the coolant recovery
reservoir. Drain the reservoir and flush it with
clean water, then reconnect the hose (see
Chapter 3).
Refilling
11Close and tighten the radiator drain. Refit
and tighten the engine block drain plugs.
12Make sure the heater temperature control
is in the maximum heat position.
13Slowly refill the expansion tank with a
mixture of antifreeze and water until the
coolant reaches the base of the filler neck.
14Leave the expansion tank pressure cap
off and run the engine in a well-ventilated area
until the thermostat opens (coolant will begin
flowing through the radiator and the upper
radiator hose will become hot). Race the
engine two or three times under no load.
15Turn the engine off and let it cool. Add
more coolant mixture to bring the level back
up to the base of the filler neck.
16Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel
air, then add more coolant mixture if
necessary. Refit the expansion tank pressure
cap.
17Start the engine, allow it to reach normal
operating temperature and check for leaks.
Every 2 years 1•21
1
3261 Jaguar XJ6
30.4 The radiator drain fitting (arrowed)
located at the bottom of the radiator30.5 The block drain plug (arrowed) is
located on the right side of the block

11 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
4
Note:The engine must be completely cool
before beginning this procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Drain the coolant from the engine block and
radiator (see Chapter 1).
3Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
(see Chapter 1).
4Remove the bonnet for easier access, if
necessary (see Chapter 11).
5Remove the intake manifold (see Section 5).
6Remove the exhaust manifolds (Section 6).
7Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).
8Refer to Section 3 and Position the engine
at TDC for cylinder number 1. Remove the
distributor (see Chapter 5).
9Remove the camshafts and sprockets (see
Section 10). Place the upper chain between
the two upper chain guides and wrap a large
rubber band around the two guides, retaining
the chain and guides.
10Remove the coolant housing from the
cylinder head (see illustration).
11Remove the cylinder head-to-front cover
bolts (see illustration).
12Using a socket and breaker bar, loosen
the cylinder head bolts in quarter-turn
increments until they can be removed by
hand. Loosen the cylinder head bolts using
the opposite of the recommended tightening
sequence (see illustration 11.23)to avoid
warping or cracking the cylinder head.
13Lift the cylinder head off the engine block.
If it’s stuck, very carefully pry up at the
transmission end, beyond the gasket surface.
Caution: Though the cylinder head is
aluminium, it is still heavy, large andawkward to handle. To avoid damaging the
body during removal, use an engine hoist
to lift the cylinder head out of the engine
compartment, or have an assistant help
you.
14With the cylinder head on a workbench,
remove all external components from the
cylinder head to allow for thorough cleaning
and inspection. See Chapter 2, Part B, for
cylinder head servicing procedures.
Refitting
15The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and engine block must be perfectly clean
when the cylinder head is installed.
16Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces
of carbon and old gasket material, then clean
the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or
acetone. If there’s oil on the mating surfaces
when the cylinder head is installed, the gasket
may not seal correctly and leaks could
develop. When working on the engine block,
stuff the cylinders with clean workshop rags
to keep out debris. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove material that falls into the cylinders.
Caution: Use care when cleaning the
cylinder head gasket surface. The cylinder
head and engine block are aluminium and
can be easily damaged by using sharpscraping tools. Gasket removal solvents
are available from car accessory outlets
and may be useful for safe removal of
gasket material.
17Check the engine block and cylinder head
mating surface for nicks, deep scratches and
damage from coolant corrosion. If damage is
slight, it can be removed with a file; if it’s
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative. See Part B of this Chapter for
procedures and criteria concerning the repair
of corrosion damage.
18Use a tap of the correct size to chase the
threads in the cylinder head bolt holes, then
clean the holes with compressed air - make
sure that nothing remains in the holes.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
19Remove the rear cover from the cylinder
head. Clean the gasket surface and refit the
cover with a new gasket (see illustration).
Place the side of the gasket with the sealer
bead against the cylinder head, do not use
sealant on this gasket.
20Fabricate two alignment studs from the
old head bolts. Cut off the heads, then slot the
ends with a hacksaw (see illustration). New
cylinder head bolts must be used when
refitting the head.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•13
2A
11.19 Remove the rear cover from the
cylinder head, clean the gasket surfaces
and refit the cover with a new gasket
(arrowed) - note that the printed-on sealer
bead is placed against the cylinder head11.20 Fabricate two alignment studs from
old cylinder head bolts and refit them in
the engine block - after the cylinder head
is installed, remove the two studs
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.10 Disconnect the hoses and remove the bolts to separate the
coolant housing (arrowed) from the cylinder head
11.11 Remove the bolts (arrowed) securing the cylinder head
to the front cover