1997 JAGUAR XJ6 brake

22 Door window glass-
removal and refitting
3
1Raise the window to its full upright position,
then remove the door trim panel and
watershield as described in Section 18.
2Tape the window to the door glass frame to
secure the window in the full upright position.
3Detach the regulator assembly (Section 21)
and lower it to the bottom of the door.
4Remove the window frame retaining bolts
(see illustrations).
5Remove the window frame and glass
assembly by pulling it up and out (see
illustration).
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
23 Outside mirrors-
removal and refitting
2
1Raise the window to the fully closed
position and remove the upper half of the
door trim panel (see Section 18).
2Detach the trim cover retaining screws (see
illustration).3Disconnect the wiring plug from the mirror.
4Remove the three mirror retaining screws
and detach the mirror from the vehicle (see
illustration).
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
24 Centre console-
removal and refitting
3
Floor console
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Pry out the gear selector trim bezel (see
illustration).
3Open the console compartment and
remove the screws securing the ash tray. Pull
the ash tray back towards the compartment to
remove it (see illustrations).
4Working through the ash tray opening,
detach the plastic wingnuts securing the rear
edge of the radio trim bezel (see illustration).
5Apply the handbrake, then move the gear
Bodywork and fittings 11•11
11
22.4a Front door window frame screws 22.4b Rear door window frame screws
22.5 After removing the window frame
retaining screws, pull the window and
frame assembly up and out to remove it
3261 Jaguar XJ6 23.2 Remove the trim cover retaining screws
23.4 Disconnect the electrical connector, then detach the three
mirror retaining screws and remove the mirror from the vehicle
24.3a Open the console compartment to
access the ash tray screws (arrowed)24.2 Carefully prise out the gear selector
trim bezel

Rear direction indicator,
brake, tail and reversing lights
4Open the boot and remove the plastic
knobs securing the tail light housing trim
cover (see illustration).
5Remove two more plastic knobs and
detach the tail light bulb cluster from the rear
tail light housing. The defective bulb can then
be pulled out of the socket and replaced (see
illustration).
Number plate light
6Remove the lens retaining screws (see
illustration).
7Detach the lens and renew the defective
bulb.
High-mounted brake light
8The brake light cover is retained by screws.
Remove the cover and renew the bulb.
Interior lights
9Remove the overhead console (Chapter 11).
Detach the bulb from the retaining clips and
renew the bulb (see illustration).
Instrument cluster illumination
10To gain access to the instrument cluster
illumination lights, the instrument cluster
housing will have to be removed (Chapter 11).
The bulbs can then be removed and replaced
from the rear of the cluster (see illustration).
22 Inertia switch-
description and check
1
1The inertia switch is a safety mechanism
which governs various electrical circuits such
as the central locking, electric window and
ignition circuits. In the event of a crash, the
inertia switch will automatically unlock the
doors, shut off power to all ignition circuits,
and lock the boot lid and the fuel filler cap.
2To test the inertia switch, turn the ignition
key to the ON position, then lock the driver
and passenger side doors and unlock the
boot lid. Then simply pull upward on the
trip/reset button located on top of the inertiaswitch. All ignition circuits should shut off, the
doors should unlock and the boot lid should
lock. To reset the inertia switch, simply push
downward on the trip/reset button (see
illustration).
12•12 Body electrical system
21.6 Detach the lens retaining screws
(arrowed) and the lens to access the
number plate light bulbs21.9 The interior light bulbs can be
accessed after lowering the overhead
console21.10 To remove an instrument cluster
bulb, depress the bulbholder and rotate it
anti-clockwise
3261 Jaguar XJ6 21.4 The Rear direction indicator, brake, tail and reversing light
bulbs are accessible from the boot compartment after removing
the plastic knobs (arrowed) securing the bulb housing covers
21.5 Remove the bulb cluster from the tail light housing - The
bulb is removed by pushing in and turning the bulb anti-clockwise
22.2 The inertia switch is located behind
the passengers side kick panel - pull
upward on the button to trip the switch -
push downward on the button
to reset the switch

23 Cruise control system-
description and check
5
1The cruise control system maintains vehicle
speed with an independently operated vacuum
motor located on the passenger’s side inner
wing in the engine compartment. When the
cruise control switch is turned on, a vacuum
actuator (connected the throttle linkage) is
activated by vacuum from the vacuum motor.
The system consists of the vacuum motor,
vacuum actuator, brake switch, control
switches, a relay and associated vacuum
hoses. Some features of the system require
special testers and diagnostic procedures
which are beyond the scope of this manual.
Listed below are some general procedures that
may be used to locate common problems.
2Locate and check the fuse (see Section 3).
3Have an assistant operate the brake lights
while you check their operation (voltage from
the brake light switch deactivates the cruise
control).
4If the brake lights don’t come on or don’t
shut off, correct the problem and re-test the
cruise control.
5Visually inspect the vacuum hose
connected to the vacuum motor and vacuum
actuator. Check the freeplay between the
vacuum actuator stop and the throttle link slot
(see illustration).
6Test drive the vehicle to determine if the
cruise control is now working. If it isn’t, take it
to a dealer service department or an
automotive electrical specialist for further
diagnosis and repair.
24 Electric window system-
description and check
2
1The electric window system operates
electric motors, mounted in the doors, which
lower and raise the windows. The system
consists of the control switches, relays, the
motors, regulators, glass mechanisms and
associated wiring.
2The electric windows can be lowered and
raised from the master control switch by the
driver or by remote switches located at the
individual windows. Each window has a
separate motor which is reversible. The
position of the control switch determines the
polarity and therefore the direction of
operation.
3The circuit is protected by a fuse. Each
motor is also equipped with an internal circuit
breaker, this prevents one stuck window from
disabling the whole system.
4The electric window system will only
operate when the ignition switch is ON. In
addition, many models have a window lockout
switch at the master control switch which,
when activated, disables the switches at the
rear windows and, sometimes, the switch at
the passenger’s window also. Always check
these items before diagnosing a window
problem.
5These procedures are general in nature, so
if you can’t find the problem using them, take
the vehicle to a dealer service department or
other properly equipped repair facility.
6If the electric windows won’t operate,
always check the fuse first.
7If only the rear windows are inoperative, or
if the windows only operate from the master
control switch, check the rear window lockout
switch for continuity in the unlocked position.
Renew it if it doesn’t have continuity.
8Check the wiring between the switches andfuse panel for continuity. Repair the wiring, if
necessary.
9If only one window is inoperative from the
master control switch, try the other control
switch at the window. Note:This doesn’t
apply to the driver’s door window.
10If the same window works from one
switch, but not the other, check the switch for
continuity.
11If the switch tests OK, check for a short or
open in the circuit between the affected
switch and the window motor.
12If one window is inoperative from both
switches, remove the trim panel from the
affected door and check for voltage at the
switch and at the motor while the switch is
operated (see illustration).
13If voltage is reaching the motor,
disconnect the glass from the regulator (see
Chapter 11). Move the window up and down
by hand while checking for binding and
damage. Also check for binding and damage
to the regulator. If the regulator is not
damaged and the window moves up and
down smoothly, renew the motor. If there’s
binding or damage, lubricate, repair or renew
parts, as necessary.
14If voltage isn’t reaching the motor, check
the wiring in the circuit for continuity between
the switches and motors. You’ll need to
consult the wiring diagram for the vehicle.
If the circuit is equipped with a relay, check
that the relay is earthed properly and receiving
voltage.
15Test the windows after you are done to
confirm proper repairs.
25 Central locking system-
description and check
5
The central locking system operates the
door lock actuators mounted in each door.
The system consists of the switches, relays,
Body electrical system 12•13
12
3261 Jaguar XJ6 23.5 Check the cruise control throttle linkage for binding
24.12 If no voltage is present at the motor with the switch
depressed, check for voltage at the switch

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Dimensions and weights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•1
Jacking and vehicle support . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•1
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system . . . . . . . . .REF•1
Conversion factors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•2
Use of English . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•3
Buying spare parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•4
Vehicle identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•4General repair procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•5
Tools and working facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•6
MOT test checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•8
Fault finding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•12
Glossary of technical terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•18
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .REF•22
Dimensions and weights
Note:All figures are approximate, and may vary according to model. Refer to manufacturer’s data for exact figures.
Dimensions
Overall length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4988 mm
Overall width (including mirrors) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2015 mm
Overall height (unladen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1358 mm
Wheelbase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2870 mm
Weights
Kerb weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1770 kg
Maximum gross vehicle weight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2190 kg
Maximum towing weight:
Braked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1500 kg
Unbraked trailer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 750 kg
Maximum axle load:
Front axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1050 kg
Rear axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1170 kg
Maximum roof rack load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 kg
ReferenceREF•1
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution
Some models are equipped with an audio
system which includes an anti-theft feature, to
deter thieves. If the power source to the unit is
cut, the anti-theft system will activate. Even if
the power source is immediately reconnected,
the radio/cassette unit will not function untilthe correct security code has been entered.
Therefore if you do not know the correct
security code for the unit, do notdisconnect
the battery negative lead, or remove the
radio/cassette unit from the vehicle.The procedure for reprogramming a unit
that has been disconnected from its power
supply varies from model to model - consult
the handbook supplied with the unit for
specific details or refer to your Jaguar dealer. The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing”at the
front of this manual. When carrying out any
other kind of work, raise the vehicle using a
hydraulic (or “trolley”) jack, and always
supplement the jack with axle stands
positioned under the vehicle jacking points.
To raise the front of the vehicle, place a
block of wood on the jack head and positionthe jack underneath the centre of the front
crossmember. Lift the vehicle to the required
height and support it on axle stands
positioned underneath the vehicle jacking
points on the sills.
To raise the rear of the vehicle, place a
block of wood on the jack head and position
the jack underneath the centre of the rear
crossmember. Lift the vehicle to the required
height and support it on axle standspositioned underneath the vehicle jacking
points on the sills.
The jack supplied with the vehicle locates in
the jacking points on the sills. Ensure that the
jack head is correctly engaged before
attempting to raise the vehicle.
Neverwork under, around, or near a raised
vehicle, unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places.
Jacking and vehicle support

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Use of EnglishREF•3
As the main part of this book has been written in the US, it uses the appropriate US component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these
differ from those used in the UK. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. When ordering spare parts,
remember the parts list may use some of these words:
AMERICAN ENGLISH
Aluminum Aluminium
Antenna Aerial
Authorized Authorised
Auto parts stores Motor factors
Axleshaft Halfshaft
Back-up Reverse
Barrel Choke/venturi
Block Chock
Box-end wrench Ring spanner
Bushing Bush
Carburetor Carburettor
Center Centre
Coast Freewheel
Color Colour
Convertible Drop head coupe
Cotter pin Split pin
Counterclockwise Anti-clockwise
Countershaft (of gearbox) Layshaft
Dashboard Facia
Denatured alcohol Methylated spirit
Dome lamp Interior light
Driveaxle Driveshaft
Driveshaft Propeller shaft
Fender Wing/mudguard
Firewall Bulkhead
Flashlight Torch
Float bowl Float chamber
Floor jack Trolley jack
Freeway, turnpike etc Motorway
Freeze plug Core plug
Frozen Seized
Gas tank Petrol tank
Gasoline (gas) Petrol
Gearshift Gearchange
Generator (DC) Dynamo
Ground (electrical) Earth
Header Exhaust manifold
Heat riser Hot spot
High Top gear
Hood (engine cover) Bonnet
Installation Refitting
Intake Inlet
Jackstands Axle stands
Jumper cable Jump lead
Keeper Collet
Kerosene Paraffin
Knock pin Roll pin
Lash Clearance
Lash Free-play
Latch Catch
Latches Locks
License plate Number plate
Light Lamp
Lock (for valve spring retainer) Split cotter (for valve spring cap)
Lopes Hunts
Lug nut/bolt Wheel nut/bolt
Metal chips or debris Swarf
Misses Misfires
AMERICAN ENGLISH
Muffler Silencer
Odor Odour
Oil pan Sump
Open flame Naked flame
Panel wagon/van Van
Parking brake Handbrake
Parking light Sidelight
Pinging Pinking
Piston pin or wrist pin Gudgeon pin
Piston pin or wrist pin Small end, little end
Pitman arm Drop arm
Power brake booster Servo unit
Primary shoe (of brake) Leading shoe (of brake)
Prussian blue Engineer’s blue
Pry Prise (force apart)
Prybar Lever
Prying Levering
Quarter window Quarterlight
Recap Retread
Release cylinder Slave cylinder
Repair shop Garage
Replacement Renewal
Ring gear (of differential) Crownwheel
Rocker panel (beneath doors) Sill panel (beneath doors)
Rod bearing Big-end bearing
Rotor/disk Disc (brake)
Secondary shoe (of brake) Trailing shoe (of brake)
Sedan Saloon
Setscrew, Allen screw Grub screw
Shock absorber, shock Damper
Snap-ring Circlip
Soft top Hood
Spacer Distance piece
Spare tire Spare wheel
Spark plug wires HT leads
Spindle arm Steering arm
Stabilizer or sway bar Anti-roll bar
Station wagon Estate car
Stumbles Hesitates
Tang or lock Tab washer
Throw-out bearing Thrust bearing
Tie-rod or connecting rod (of steering) Trackrod
Tire Tyre
Transmission Gearbox
Troubleshooting Fault finding/diagnosis
Trunk Boot (luggage compartment)
Turn signal Indicator
TV (throttle valve) cable Kickdown cable
Unpublicized Unpublicised
Valve cover Rocker cover
Valve lifter Tappet
Valve lifter or tappet Cam follower or tappet
Vapor Vapour
Vise Vice
Wheel cover Roadwheel trim
Whole drive line Transmission
Windshield Windscreen
Wrench Spanner

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•4Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should be clean.
Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows.
Officially appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg, badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy
materials and components needed for themaintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, light bulbs, drivebelts, greases, brake
pads, touch-up paint, etc). Components of
this nature sold by a reputable shop are
usually of the same standard as those used
by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found close to home.
Some accessory shops have parts counters
where components needed for almost any
repair job can be purchased or ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg, brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves). They may also handle work such as
cylinder block reboring, crankshaft regrinding,
etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk of financial loss, and
also of an accident causing injury or death.
Second-hand parts or assemblies obtained
from a car breaker can be a good buy in some
circumstances, but this sort of purchase is
best made by the experienced DIY mechanic.
Vehicle identification
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
identification numbers being essential to
correct identification of the part concerned.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture and registration,
chassis and engine numbers as appropriate.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
plate is attached to the base of the driver’s
door pillar left-hand wing valance and is
visible once the bonnet has been opened. The
vehicle identification (chassis) number is also
stamped onto a plate located inside the
windscreen and may also be stamped onto
the right-hand inner wing panel in the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
The trim code and paint codeare also
stamped onto the VIN plate.
The engine numberis stamped onto the
right-hand side of the cylinder block, next to
the distributor (see illustration).
The automatic transmission numberis
stamped onto a metal label attached to the
left-hand side of the transmission housing,
just above the sump (see illustration).The VIN is stamped on the right inner wing
panel of the engine compartment
The engine identification number is
stamped on the right side of the engine
block just behind the distributorThe transmission identification number is
located on the left side of the transmission
housing just above the sump
The VIN is also present on the left side of
the dashboard

3261 Jaguar XJ6
General repair proceduresREF•5
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it
is necessary to observe the following
procedures and instructions. This will assist in
carrying out the operation efficiently and to a
professional standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that
this method may not be suitable where
dowels are used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used,
unless specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar tool. Alternatively, a number of self-
tapping screws may be screwed into the seal,
and these used as a purchase for pliers or
similar in order to pull the seal free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original
sealing surface of the component cannot be
restored, and the manufacturer has not made
provision for slight relocation of the seal
relative to the sealing surface, the component
should be renewed.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing isunshouldered, the seal should be fitted with
its face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a
blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,
grease, water or other fluid before installing
the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause
the housing to crack due to the hydraulic
action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never
slacken the nut to align the split pin hole,
unless stated in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably
cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench
settings are no longer specified for the latter
stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being
called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque
wrench setting will be applied to the
bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed
by one or more stages of tightening through
specified angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing during tightening
should always have a washer between it and
the relevant component or housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and
should be renewed as a matter of course.
Split pins must always be replaced with
new ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found
on the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. In some instances,
where no alternative is possible, it has been
necessary to resort to the use of a
manufacturer’s tool, and this has been done
for reasons of safety as well as the efficient
completion of the repair operation. Unless you
are highly-skilled and have a thorough
understanding of the procedures described,
never attempt to bypass the use of any
special tool when the procedure described
specifies its use. Not only is there a very great
risk of personal injury, but expensive damage
could be caused to the components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department, or the
National Rivers Authority, for further advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices
are encountered during servicing or overhaul,
they should, wherever possible, be renewed
or refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•6Tools and working facilities
Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle.
For the owner who does not possess any,
their purchase will prove a considerable
expense, offsetting some of the savings made
by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that
the tools purchased meet the relevant national
safety standards and are of good quality, they
will last for many years and prove an
extremely worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings: Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with
the Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance
and minor repair tool kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8 to 19 mm inclusive
MAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx.)
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert) -
petrol models
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool - petrol
models
MSet of feeler blades
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for
anyone undertaking any major repairs to a
motor vehicle, and are additional to those
given in the Maintenance and minor repairlist.
Included in this list is a comprehensive set of
sockets. Although these are expensive, they
will be found invaluable as they are so
versatile - particularly if various drives are
included in the set. We recommend the half-
inch square-drive type, as this can be used
with most proprietary torque wrenches.
The tools in this list will sometimes need to
be supplemented by tools from the Speciallist:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammer
MSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade – Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
Sockets and reversible ratchet drive
Clutch plate alignment setPiston ring compressorSpline bit set
Valve spring compressor