1997 JAGUAR XJ6 clutch

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Safety first!0•5
Working on your car can be dangerous.
This page shows just some of the potential
risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a
safety-conscious attitude.
General hazards
Scalding
• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion
tank cap while the engine is hot.
• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or
power steering fluid may also be dangerously
hot if the engine has recently been running.
Burning
• Beware of burns from the exhaust system
and from any part of the engine. Brake discs
and drums can also be extremely hot
immediately after use.
Crushing
• When working under or near
a raised vehicle,
always
supplement the
jack with axle
stands, or use
drive-on
ramps.
Never
venture
under a car which
is only supported by a jack.
• Take care if loosening or tightening high-
torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.
Initial loosening and final tightening should
be done with the wheels on the ground.
Fire
• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is
explosive.
• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.
• Do not smoke or allow naked lights
(including pilot lights) anywhere near a
vehicle being worked on. Also beware of
creating sparks
(electrically or by use of tools).
• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t
work on the fuel system with the vehicle over
an inspection pit.
• Another cause of fire is an electrical
overload or short-circuit. Take care when
repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.
• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type
suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.
Electric shock
• Ignition HT
voltage can be
dangerous,
especially to
people with heart
problems or a
pacemaker. Don’t
work on or near the
ignition system with
the engine running or
the ignition switched on.• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make
sure that any mains-operated equipment is
correctly earthed. Mains power points should
be protected by a residual current device
(RCD) circuit breaker.
Fume or gas intoxication
• Exhaust fumes are
poisonous; they often
contain carbon
monoxide, which is
rapidly fatal if inhaled.
Never run the
engine in a
confined space
such as a garage
with the doors shut.
• Fuel vapour is also
poisonous, as are the vapours from some
cleaning solvents and paint thinners.
Poisonous or irritant substances
• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and
with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially
antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel
fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a
substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,
seek medical advice.
• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can
cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a
barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-
soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in
your pocket.
• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a
poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame
(including a cigarette). It can also cause skin
burns on contact.
Asbestos
• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled
or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in
gaskets and in brake and clutch linings.
When dealing with such components it is
safest to assume that they contain asbestos.
Special hazards
Hydrofluoric acid
• This extremely corrosive acid is formed
when certain types of synthetic rubber, found
in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are
exposed to temperatures above 400
0C. The
rubber changes into a charred or sticky
substance containing the acid. Once formed,
the acid remains dangerous for years. If it
gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to
amputate the limb concerned.
• When dealing with a vehicle which has
suffered a fire, or with components salvaged
from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves
and discard them after use.
The battery
• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which
attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care
when topping-up or carrying the battery.
• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery
is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or
allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when
connecting and disconnecting battery
chargers or jump leads.
Air bags
• Air bags can cause injury if they go off
accidentally. Take care when removing the
steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage
instructions may apply.
Diesel injection equipment
• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very
high pressure. Take care when working on
the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.
Warning: Never expose the hands,
face or any other part of the body
to injector spray; the fuel can
penetrate the skin with potentially fatal
results.
Remember...
DO
• Do use eye protection when using power
tools, and when working under the vehicle.
• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to
protect your hands when necessary.
• Do get someone to check periodically
that all is well when working alone on the
vehicle.
• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well
out of the way of moving mechanical parts.
• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before
working on the vehicle – especially the
electrical system.
• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking
equipment has a safe working load rating
adequate for the job.
A few tips
DON’T
• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component
which may be beyond your capability – get
assistance.
• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take
unverified short cuts.
• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip
and cause injury.
• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around
where someone can trip over them. Mop
up oil and fuel spills at once.
• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or
near a vehicle being worked on.

0•16Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures
3261 Jaguar XJ6
Lubricants and fluids
Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil to API SG or higher (Duckhams QS, QXR, Hypergrade Plus,
Hypergrade, or 10W-40 Motor Oil)
Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol based (phosphate free) antifreeze
(Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant)
Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams Uni-Matic)
Differential:
Standard differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE EP90 to API GL5 (Duckhams 80W-90S Gear Oil)
Powr-lok differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SAE 90 to API GL5 (Duckhams Hypoid 90 DL)
Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)
Power steering (with separate reservoir) .dependent on year of manufacture and system fitted - refer to your Jaguar dealer
Power hydraulic system . . . . . . . . . . . . . Castrol or Jaguar hydraulic system mineral oil (HSMO) Refer to your Jaguar dealer
Tyre pressures
Note:Tyre pressures must always be checked with the tyres cold to ensure accuracy.
Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 psi (2.3 bar)
Note:Jaguar state that the tyre pressures maybe reduced by up to 8 psi (0.6 bar) on the front tyres and 6 psi (0.4 bar) on the rear
tyres to increase the ride comfort. This is only allowable if the vehicle is not to be driven at speeds in excess of 100 mph (160 kmh);
if speeds are to exceed this, the tyres must be run at the specified pressures.
Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The
higher the engine’s performance, the greater
the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as
well as optimise power and economy.
Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest
technical standards, meeting and exceeding
the demands of all modern engines.
HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS
• Beating friction
Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine
which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly
cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special
additives, forms a molecular barrier between
moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat
build-up.
• Cooling hot spots
Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based
coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion
chamber and pistons, where temperatures
may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists intransferring the heat to the engine cooling
system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow
over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.
• Cleaning the inner engine
Oil washes away combustion by-products
(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,
transporting them to the oil filter, and holding
the smallest particles in suspension until they
are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams
oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,
and on the road.
Engine oil types
Mineral oilsare the “traditional” oils,
generally suited to older engines and cars not
used in harsh conditions. Duckhams
Hypergrade Plus and Hypergradeare well
suited for use in most popular family cars.
Diesel oilssuch as Duckhams Dieselare
specially formulated for Diesel engines,
including turbocharged models and 4x4s.
Synthetic oilsare the state-of-the-art in
lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at
a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS,
for use in ultra-high performance engines.
Semi-synthetic oilsoffer high performance
engine protection, but at less cost than full
synthetic oils. Duckhams QXRis an ideal choice
for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.
For help with technical
queries on lubricants,
call Duckhams Oils
on 0181 290 8207
Choosing your engine oil
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.

Refitting
7Use a scraper to remove all traces of old
gasket material and carbon deposits from the
manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. If
the gasket was leaking, have the manifold
checked for warpage at an automotive
machine workshop and resurfaced if
necessary.
8Position new gaskets over the cylinder
head studs (see illustration). Note:The
marks on the gasket should face out (away
from the cylinder head) and the arrow should
point toward the rear of the engine.
9Refit the manifolds and thread the mounting
nuts/bolts into place.
10Working from the centre out, tighten the
nuts/bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications in three or four equal steps.
11Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal.
12Run the engine and check for exhaust
leaks.
7 Crankshaft front oil seal-
renewal
3
1Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle isequipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Refer to Chapter 1 and remove the
accessory drive belts.
3Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the fan
shroud and fan clutch assembly.
4Remove the crankshaft damper bolt with a
socket and large breaker bar (see illustration).
To hold the crankshaft stationary, remove the
flywheel inspection cover (see Chapter 8) and
wedge a large screwdriver into the flywheel
ring gear teeth. Warning: The damper bolt is
under considerable torque, so
be sure the socket is firmly in
place and that your hands are
not in danger of hitting anything sharp.
5Use a bolt-type damper puller (available at
most car accessory outlets) to remove the
crankshaft damper (see illustration).
7Remove the Woodruff key from the
crankshaft keyway (see illustration).
8Carefully pry the seal out of the front cover
with a screwdriver or seal-removal tool(see
illustration). Don’t scratch the bore or
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5
2A
6.3 Remove nuts (small arrows) retaining
the exhaust pipe to the manifold flanges;
two for each pipe - larger arrow indicates
one heat shield bolt accessible from below6.4 Remove the upper heat shield bolts
(arrowed)6.6 Remove the bolts and nuts and
remove the front and rear exhaust
manifolds
6.8 Refit new gaskets in position over the
studs with the markings facing out
7.7 Carefully tap one end the Woodruff key
up and out from the crankshaft keyway,
then grasp it with a pair of locking pliers
and pull it the rest of the way out - be
careful not to damage the key or keyway7.8 Remove the crankshaft seal with a
screwdriver or seal puller - there are two
slots (arrowed) in the cover which allow
you to pry behind the seal
7.4 Use a large breaker bar and the
appropriate size socket to remove the
crankshaft pulley bolt7.5 After removing the centre bolt, remove
the crankshaft damper with a two-bolt
puller - be careful not to damage the
sensor ring
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
3
Chapter 3
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
General
Radiator cap pressure rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.5 to 117.5 psi
Thermostat rating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 to 207° F
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Coolant pipe to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Fan assembly-to-drive hub nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Fan clutch-to-fan blade bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Thermostat cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Thermostat housing-to-block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21
Water pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 to 28 16 to 21 Air conditioning and heating system - check and maintenance . . . . 13
Air conditioning compressor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Air conditioning condenser - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Air conditioning evaporator and expansion valve - removal
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Air conditioning receiver/drier - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Antifreeze/coolant - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Coolant level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Coolant temperature sender unit - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Cooling system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Cooling system draining, flushing and refilling . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine cooling fans - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Engine oil cooler - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Heater and air conditioning blower motors -circuit check
and component renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Heater and air conditioning control assembly -
check, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Heater core - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Radiator, expansion tank and coolant reservoir -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Thermostat - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Underbonnet hose check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Water pump - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Water pump and pipes - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
3•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
Engine cooling system
All vehicles covered by this manual employ a
pressurised engine cooling system with
thermostatically-controlled coolant circulation.
An impeller type water pump mounted on the
front of the block pumps coolant through the
engine. The coolant flows around each cylinder
and toward the rear of the engine. Cast-in
coolant passages direct coolant around the
intake and exhaust ports, near the spark plug
areas and in proximity to the exhaust valve
guides.A wax-pellet type thermostat is located in
the thermostat housing at the front of the
engine. During warm up, the closed
thermostat prevents coolant from circulating
through the radiator. When the engine
reaches normal operating temperature, the
thermostat opens and allows hot coolant to
travel through the radiator, where it is cooled
before returning to the engine.
The cooling system is sealed by a pressure-
type radiator cap. This raises the boiling point
of the coolant, and the higher boiling point of
the coolant increases the cooling efficiency
of the radiator. If the system pressure exceeds
the cap pressure-relief value, the excess
pressure in the system forces the spring-
loaded valve inside the cap off its seat and
allows the coolant to escape through the
overflow tube into a coolant reservoir. Whenthe system cools, the excess coolant is
automatically drawn from the reservoir back
into the radiator. This type of cooling system is
known as a closed design because coolant
that escapes past the pressure cap is saved
and reused.
The Jaguar cooling system on 1988 and
1989 models has both a manifold tank and a
coolant recovery tank. The manifold tank is the
highest point in the cooling system and is the
location of the “radiator” cap (the cap is not on
the radiator). The recovery tank down in the
passenger’s footwell collects heated coolant
as described above. Models from 1990 to
1994 do not have a coolant recovery tank, but
have an enlarged manifold tank. In all models,
the recovery tank has a sensor in it to detect a
low coolant level, and the instrument panel has
a warning light to that effect.

pull loose, tap it with a soft-faced hammer. Do
not use a screwdriver between the cover and
the thermostat housing.
8Remove the thermostat, noting the
direction in which it was installed in the
housing, and thoroughly clean the sealing
surfaces.
9Refit a new O-ring onto the thermostat (see
illustration). Make sure it is evenly fitted all
the way around.
10Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the
thermostat housing. Refit the thermostat and
housing, positioning the jiggle pin at the
highest point. Note:The thermostat is usually
marked TOP on the radiator side for proper
orientation.
11Tighten the cover fasteners to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
12Refill the cooling system, run the engine
and check for leaks and proper operation.
4 Engine cooling fans-
check and renewal
3
Mechanical fan
(1988 to 1992 models)
Warning: Keep hands, hair, tools
and clothing away from the fan
when the engine is running. Toavoid injury or damage DO NOT operate
the engine with a damaged fan. Do not
attempt to repair fan blades - renew a
damaged fan .
Check
Warning: In order to check the
fan clutch, the engine will need
to be at operating temperature,
so while going through checks
prior to Step 6 be careful that the ignition is
NOT switched on. Severe personal injury
can result!
1Symptoms of failure of the fan clutch are
continuous noisy operation, looseness,
vibration and evidence of silicone fluid leaks.
2Rock the fan back and forth by hand to
check for excessive bearing play.
3With the engine cold, turn the blades by
hand. The fan should turn freely.
4Visually inspect for substantial fluid leakage
from the fan clutch assembly, a deformed bi-
metal spring or grease leakage from the
cooling fan bearing. If any of these conditions
exist, renew the fan clutch.
5When the engine is fully warmed up, turn off
the ignition switch and disconnect the cable
from the negative battery terminal. Turn the
fan by hand. Some resistance should be felt. If
the fan turns easily, renew the fan clutch.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, makesure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
Removal and refitting
6Leave the battery cable disconnected (see
the Caution in Step 5).
7Remove the fan’s drivebelt (see Chapter 1).
8Remove the nuts holding the fan assembly
to the water pump (see illustration). Note:
You’ll have to “walk” the fan assembly forward
as you loosen the nuts. There is not enough
room to remove them all the way at one time.
9The fan can be removed without removing
the shroud, if you are only renewing the fan or
clutch (see illustration). Be careful not to
allow the blades contact the radiator fins.
10Remove the two fan shroud mounting
clips at the top of the shroud (see illustration).
11Lift the shroud up and out of the engine
compartment. The bottom of the fan shroud
does not have any fasteners. It has two tangs
on the bottom that slip out of slots in the body
when pulled up.
12The fan clutch can be unbolted from the
fan blade assembly for renewal (see
illustration).
Caution: To prevent silicone fluid from
draining from the clutch assembly into the
fan drive bearing and ruining the lubricant,
DON’T place the clutch in a position with
the rear pointing down. Store the clutch in
its upright position if possible.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•3
3
4.9 The fan can be removed with the
shroud in place by angling it out of
the shroud4.10 Pry out the two clips (arrow indicates
the left one) at the top of the fan shroud
and lift out the shroud
3261 Jaguar XJ6 3.9 The thermostat is fitted with the spring end towards the
cylinder head - use a new O-ring (A) and position jiggle pin (B) up
4.8 Remove the four nuts (arrows indicate three shown here)
holding the fan/clutch assembly to the front of the water pump
4.12 Separate the fan clutch from the fan
by removing the four bolts (arrowed)

13Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the fan clutch-to-fan blade bolts and the fan
assembly-to-drive hub nut to the torque listed
in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Electric fans
Check
Warning: Keep your hands or
clothing away from the fan
blades at all times.
14On 1988 through 1992 models, a single
electric fan is mounted in front of the radiator,
controlled by a thermostatic switch. Access to
the fan is with the grille removed. The 1993
and 1994 models have a fan shroud assembly
that includes two electric fans, and a “twin”
thermostatic switch, with the assembly
mounted on the engine side of the radiator.
15If the electric fan does not come on at any
time, bypass the thermostatic switch by
disconnecting the electrical connector at the
switch and connecting the two pins with a
jumper wire (see illustration). If the fan now
operates, renew the thermostatic switch. If the
fan doesn’t operate, the problem is either the
fan relay or the fan motor. On 1993 and 1994
models with twin electric fans, jumpering one
set of connections in the plug from the switch
should make both fans operate at slow speed
(fans in series) and jumpering the other two
should run both fans at higher speed (fans in
parallel). In normal operation, the fans operate
at the higher-speed only when the air
conditioning is on, or when coolant
temperature exceeds 212° F. When the
coolant cools down to below 200° F, the fans
revert to the normal speed.
16To renew a defective thermostatic switch,
allow the vehicle to cool off and drain the
coolant (see Chapter 1). Remove the switch
from the radiator and refit the new switch.
Connect the electrical connector and test
again for proper fan operation.17To test an inoperative fan motor (one that
doesn’t come on when the engine gets hot or
when the air conditioner is on), first check the
fuses and/or fusible links (see Chapter 12).
Then disconnect the electrical connector at
the motor (refer to Chapter 11 for removal of
the grille for access on front-mounted-fan
models) and use fused jumper wires to
connect the fan directly to the battery and to
chassis ground (see illustration). If the fan
still does not work, renew the fan motor.
Warning: Do not allow the test
clips to contact each other or
any metallic part of the vehicle.
18If the motor tested OK in the previous test
but is still inoperative, then the fault lies in the
relay, fuse, or wiring. The fan relay can be
tested for continuity (see Chapter 12).
Renewal
19Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.20Access the 1988 through 1992 single
electric fan with the grille removed (see
Chapter 11 for grille removal). Disconnect the
electrical connector and remove the bolts
holding the fan assembly to the body (see
illustration).
21On 1993 and 1994 models, remove the
two bolts holding the fan shroud to the top of
the radiator and lift the shroud/fans assembly
from the vehicle.
22If the fan on 1988 to 1992 models must be
renewed, renew the fan, motor and shroud as
a unit. The fan is separate from the shroud on
later models.
23Refitting is the reverse of removal. If the
thermostatic switch was renewed, refill the
cooling system.5 Radiator, expansion tank
and coolant reservoir-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: Do not start this
procedure until the engine is
completely cool.
Radiator
Removal
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Drain the coolant into a container (see
Chapter 1).
3Remove both the upper and lower radiator
hoses, and the small expansion tank hose from
the top left of the radiator (see illustration).
4Remove the cooling fan and shroud (see
Section 4).
3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
4.20 Disconnect the fan’s electrical
connector (large arrow) and remove the
bolts (small arrows) on single-fan models -
grille is removed here
3261 Jaguar XJ6 4.15 Disconnect the electrical connector (A) from the
thermostatic switch (B) in the radiator and bypass it with a
jumper wire (C) - the fan should operate now with the ignition on
4.17 Disconnect the fan wiring connector and connect jumper
wires from there directly to the positive and negative terminals of
the battery - the purple wire’s terminal should receive the battery
power and the black wire’s terminal should be earthed

17A coolant recovery bottle is used on 1988
and 1989 models, located in the passenger’s
inner wing. The plastic inner wing splash
shield must be removed for access to the
recovery bottle (see Chapter 11). Disconnect
the recovery hose and remove the mounting
screws to renew the recovery bottle (see
illustration). Models from 1990 on do not
have the recovery bottle, but do have a larger
expansion tank.
18Refitting of either expansion tank or
recovery bottle is the reverse of removal.
6 Engine oil cooler- renewal
2
1Models from 1988 through 1991 have a
engine oil cooler, mounted ahead of the
radiator. The engine’s mechanical fan draws
air through the oil cooler, cooling off hot
engine oil that is circulated from the engine by
steel tubes. Access to the cooler is with the
grille removed (refer to Chapter 11 for grille
removal).
2To renew the oil cooler, first disconnect thetwo fittings connecting the lines to the cooler
(see illustration).
Caution: The engine should be cool for this
procedure, and you should have a small
drain pan handy because the fittings are
on the bottom of the cooler and will
probably drip some oil on dismantling.
3Remove the mounting nuts to take the
cooler out of the vehicle (see illustration).
4The other ends of the oil cooler tubes
mount to a block just below the oil filter. With
a drain pan handy, remove the nut retaining
both pipes to the block.
5Refitting the oil cooler and oil lines is the
reverse of removal. When refitting the lines to
the block or the cooler, use new O-rings.7 Water pump- check
1
1A failure in the water pump can cause
serious engine damage due to overheating.
2With the engine running and warmed to
normal operating temperature, squeeze the
upper radiator hose. If the water pump is
working properly, a pressure surge should be
felt as the hose is released.
Warning: Keep hands away from
fan blades!
3Water pumps are equipped with weep or
vent holes (see illustration). If a failure occurs
in the pump seal, coolant will leak from this
hole. In most cases it will be necessary to use
a flashlight to find the hole on the water pump
by looking through the space behind the
pulley just below the water pump shaft.
4If the water pump shaft bearings fail there
may be a howling sound at the front of the
engine while it is running. Bearing wear can be
felt if the water pump pulley is rocked up anddown. Do not mistake drivebelt slippage,
which causes a squealing sound, for water
pump failure. Spray automotive drivebelt
dressing on the belts to eliminate the belt as a
possible cause of the noise.
8 Water pump and pipes-
renewal
3
Warning: Do not start this
procedure until the engine is
completely cool.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable and
drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Refer to Section 4 to remove the
mechanical fan and clutch (if applicable to
your model).
3Refer to Chapter 1 for removal of the
drivebelts.
3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
6.3 Remove the mounting nuts (arrowed)
to take the oil cooler out
7.3 Check the weep hole (arrowed) for
signs of leakage (pump removed for
clarity) - grey discolouration is normal,
large brown stains indicates seal failure
3261 Jaguar XJ6 5.17 The recovery bottle (arrowed) on 1988 and 1989 models is
located in the footwell - disconnect the hoses and the two
mounting screws
6.2 Disconnect the two metal oil lines (arrowed) where they
mount to the bottom of the cooler - use two spanners

blower at the highest setting. Open the doors
(to make sure the air conditioning system
doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the
passenger compartment).
9With the compressor engaged - the clutch
will make an audible click and the centre of
the clutch will rotate. After the system reaches
operating temperature, feel the two pipes
connected to the evaporator at the bulkhead
(see illustration).
10The pipe (thinner tubing) leading from the
condenser outlet to the evaporator should be
cold, and the evaporator outlet line (the
thicker tubing that leads back to the
compressor) should be slightly colder (3 to
10° F). If the evaporator outlet is considerably
warmer than the inlet, the system needs a
charge. Insert a thermometer in the centre air
distribution duct while operating the air
conditioning system - the temperature of the
output air should be 35 to 40° F below the
ambient air temperature (down to approxi-
mately 40° F). If the ambient (outside) air
temperature is very high, say 110° F, the duct
air temperature may be as high as 60° F, but
generally the air conditioning is 30 to 50° F
cooler than the ambient air. If the air isn’t as
cold as it used to be, the system probably
needs a charge. Further inspection or testing
of the system is beyond the scope of the
home mechanic and should be left to a
professional.
11Inspect the sight glass (see illustration).
If the refrigerant looks foamy when running,
it’s low. When ambient temperatures are very
hot, bubbles may show in the sight glass even
with the proper amount of refrigerant. With the
proper amount of refrigerant, when the air
conditioning is turned off, the sight glass
should show refrigerant that foams, then
clears. Note:1993 and 1994 models are
equipped with R-134a refrigerant systems and
do not have a sight glass.Heating systems
12If the air coming out of the heater vents
isn’t hot, the problem could stem from any of
the following causes:
a) The thermostat is stuck open, preventing
the engine coolant from warming up
enough to carry heat to the heater core.
Renew the thermostat (see Section 3).
b) A heater hose is blocked, preventing the
flow of coolant through the heater core.
Feel both heater hoses at the bulkhead.
They should be hot. If one of them is cold,
there is an obstruction in one of the hoses
or in the heater core, or the heater control
valve is shut. Detach the hoses and back
flush the heater core with a water hose. If
the heater core is clear but circulation is
impeded, remove the two hoses and flush
them out with a water hose.
c) If flushing fails to remove the blockage
from the heater core, the core must be
renewed.(see Section 11).
13If the blower motor speed does not
correspond to the setting selected on the
blower switch, the problem could be a badfuse, circuit, control panel or climate control
computer (see Sections 10 and 12).
14If there isn’t any air coming out of the
vents:
a) Turn the ignition ON and activate the fan
control. Place your ear at the heating/air
conditioning register (vent) and listen.
Most motors are audible. Can you hear
the motor running?
b) If you can’t (and have already verified that
the blower switch and the blower motor
resistor are good), the blower motor itself
is probably bad (see Section 10).
15If the carpet under the heater core is
damp, or if antifreeze vapour or steam is
coming through the vents, the heater core is
leaking. Remove it (see Section 11) and refit a
new unit (most radiator shops will not repair a
leaking heater core).
16Inspect the drain hose from the heat/AC
assembly at the right side of the bulkhead,
make sure it is not clogged (see illustration).
If there is a humid mist coming from the
system ducts, this hose may be plugged. In
some early models, the hose may have been
pinched during assembly or blocked with
insulation or underseal.
14 Air conditioning
receiver/drier-
removal and refitting
4
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any hose fittings
or remove any components until
the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/
recycling unit by a dealer service depart-
ment or an automotive air conditioning
3•12 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
13.16 This drain hose (arrowed) from the
heater/air conditioning unit should be kept
clear to allow drainage of condensation
3261 Jaguar XJ6 13.9 Feel the inlet (small arrow) and outlet (large arrow) pipes at
the bulkhead leading to the air conditioning evaporator (battery
removed here for clarity only)
13.11 The sight glass (arrowed) is located on the top of the
receiver/drier, to the right of the radiator