1997 JAGUAR XJ6 light

position, a worn or weak shock absorber is
probably the reason.
4Repeat the above check at each of the
three remaining corners of the vehicle.
Under the vehicle
5Raise the vehicle with a trolley jack and
support it securely on axle stands. See
“Jacking and towing”for proper jacking
points.
6Check the shock absorbers for evidence of
fluid leakage. Make sure that any fluid noted is
from the shocks and not from any other
source. Also check the rubber mounts at each
end for deterioration If the shock absorbers
fail any of the tests above replace the shocks
as a set.
7Check the tyres for irregular wear patterns
and proper inflation. See “Weekly checks”for
information regarding tyre wear.
8Inspect the universal joint between the
steering shaft and the steering gear housing.
Check the steering gear housing for grease
leakage. Make sure that the dust seals and
boots are not damaged and that the boot
clamps are not loose (see illustration). Check
the steering linkage for looseness or damage.
Look for loose bolts, broken or disconnected
parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all
suspension and steering components (see
illustration). While an assistant turns the
steering wheel from side to side, check the
steering components for free movement,
chafing and binding. If the steering
components do not seem to be reacting with
the movement of the steering wheel, try to
determine where the slack is located.
9Check the balljoints moving each lower arm
up and down with a crowbar to ensure that its
balljoint has no play. If any balljoint does have
play, replace it. See Chapter 10 for the front
balljoint renewal procedure. Check the tie-rod
ends for excessive play.
10Inspect the balljoint and tie-rod end boots
for damage and leaking grease (see
illustration. Replace the balljoints and tie-rod
ends with new ones if they are damaged (see
Chapter 10).
13 Seat belt check
1
1Check the seat belts, buckles, latch plates
and guide loops for any obvious damage or
signs of wear.
2Make sure the seat belt reminder light
comes on when the key is turned on.
3The seat belts are designed to lock up
during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free
movement during normal driving. The
retractors should hold the belt against your
chest while driving and rewind the belt when
the buckle is unlatched.
4If any of the above checks reveal problems
with the seat-belt system, replace parts as
necessary.Note:Check with your local dealer
service department; the seat belt system
should be covered under the factory warranty.
14 General lubrication
2
1Obtain a good quality, multi-purpose
lithium-base grease. You’ll also need a grease
gun and other materials to properly lubricate
the chassis (see illustration). Occasionallyplugs will be installed rather than grease
fittings. If so, grease fittings will have to be
purchased and installed.
2Look under the car and see if grease fittings
or plugs are installed. If there are plugs,
remove them and buy grease fittings, which
will thread into the component. A dealer or
motor factors will be able to supply the
correct fittings. Straight, as well as angled,
fittings are available.
3For easier access under the car, raise it with
a jack and place axle stands under the
chassis. Make sure it’s safely supported by
the stands. If the wheels are to be removed at
this interval for tyre rotation or brake
inspection, loosen the wheel nuts slightly
while the car is still on the ground.
4Before beginning, force a little grease out of
the nozzle to remove any dirt from the end of
the gun. Wipe the nozzle clean with a rag.
5With the grease gun and plenty of clean
rags, crawl under the car and begin
lubricating all the front suspension parts that
are equipped with a grease fitting.
6Lubricate the rear driveshafts (see
illustration). Wipe each fitting clean and push
the nozzle firmly over it. Pump the gun until
grease is expelled from the U-joint cap seal.
7Wipe away any excess grease from the
components and the grease fitting. Repeat
the procedure for the remaining fittings.
Every 7500 miles or 6 months 1•13
1
14.1 Materials required for chassis
and body lubrication
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.8a Check the steering gear dust boots
for cracks and leaking steering fluid
12.8b Check the anti-roll bar bushings
(arrowed) for deterioration at the front and
the rear of the vehicle12.10 Inspect the balljoint and tie-rod end
boots for tears - tears or damage in either
boot will allow contamination of the grease
which will lead to premature failure
1 Engine oil - Light engine oil in a can like
this can be used for door and bonnet
hinges
2 Graphite spray - Used to lubricate lock
cylinders
3 Grease - Grease, in a variety of types and
weights, is available for use in a grease
gun.
4 Grease gun - A common grease gun,
shown here with a detachable hose and
nozzle, is needed for chassis lubrication.
After use, clean it thoroughly

16 Spark plug renewal
2
Refer to Section 4, renewing the plugs
regardless of their apparent condition.
17 Air cleaner element renewal
1
1The air filter is located inside a housing at
the left side of the engine compartment. To
remove the air filter, release the four spring
clips that secure the two halves of the air
cleaner housing together, then lift the cover
up and remove the air filter element (see
illustration).
Caution: Never drive the car with the air
cleaner removed. Excessive engine wear
could result and backfiring could even
cause a fire under the bonnet.
2Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner
housing.
3Place the new filter into the air cleaner
housing, making sure it seats properly.
4Refitting the cover is the reverse of removal.
18 Fuel filter renewal
2
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable, so take extra
precautions when you work on
any part of the fuel system.
Don’t smoke or allow open flames or bare
light bulbs near the work area, and don’t
work in a garage where a natural gas-typeappliance (such as a water heater or
clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present.
Since petrol is carcinogenic, wear latex
gloves when there’s a possibility of being
exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on
your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap
and water. Mop up any spills immediately
and do not store fuel-soaked rags where
they could ignite. The fuel system is under
constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are
to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in
the system must be relieved first (see
Chapter 4 for more information). When you
perform any kind of work on the fuel
system, wear safety glasses and have a
Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.
1The canister type filter is mounted
underneath the car on the passenger’s side
frame rail just in front of the left rear tyre.
2Depressurise the fuel system (refer to
Chapter 4), then disconnect the cable from
the negative terminal of the battery.
3On 1988 to 1990 models, detach the banjo
bolt from the outlet side of the filter then
remove the union from the inlet side of the
filter. Unscrew the filter mounting bolt and
remove the filter (see illustration).
4On 1991 to 1994 models, the fuel filter has
quick-disconnect fittings that do not require 8Clean and lubricate the handbrake cable,
along with the cable guides and levers. This
can be done by smearing some of the chassis
grease onto the cable and its related parts
with your fingers.
9Open the bonnet and smear a little chassis
grease on the bonnet latch mechanism. Have
an assistant pull the bonnet release lever from
inside the car as you lubricate the cable at the
latch.
10Lubricate all the hinges (door, bonnet,
etc.) with engine oil to keep them in proper
working order.
11The key lock cylinders can be lubricated
with spray graphite or silicone lubricant, which
is available at motor factors.12Lubricate the door weather-stripping with
silicone spray. This will reduce chafing and
retard wear.
15 Road test
1
Instruments and electrical
equipment
1Check the operation of all instruments and
electrical equipment.
2Make sure that all instruments read
correctly, and switch on all electrical
equipment in turn, to check that it functions
properly.
Steering and suspension
3Check for any abnormalities in the steering,
suspension, handling or road “feel”.
4Drive the car, and check that there are no
unusual vibrations or noises.
5Check that the steering feels positive, with
no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, and
check for any suspension noises when
cornering and driving over bumps.
Drivetrain
6Check the performance of the engine and
transmission, listening for any unusual noises.7Make sure that the engine runs smoothly
when idling, and that there is no hesitation
when accelerating.
8Check that the gear changing action of the
transmission is smooth and progressive and
that the drive is taken up smoothly from a
standing start.
Braking system
9Make sure that the car does not pull to one
side when braking, and that the wheels do not
lock prematurely when braking hard.
10Check that there is no vibration through
the steering when braking.
11Check that the handbrake operates
correctly without excessive movement of the
lever, and that it holds the car stationary on a
slope.
12Test the operation of the brake servo unit
as follows. With the engine off, depress the
footbrake four or five times to exhaust the
vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then
start the engine. As the engine starts, there
should be a noticeable “give” in the brake
pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to
run for at least two minutes, and then switch it
off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it
should be possible to detect a hiss from the
servo as the pedal is depressed. After about
four or five depressions, no further hissing
should be heard, and the pedal should feel
considerably harder.
1•14Every 7500 miles or 6 months
17.1 Detach the clips and separate the
cover, then slide the filter element out of
the housing
3261 Jaguar XJ6
14.6 Grease fittings for the rear
driveshafts are located in the centre
on each U-joint
Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km) or 12 months

20 Crankcase ventilation
system check
1
Refer to Chapter 6.
21 Drivebelt check and renewal
2
Check
1The drivebelts, or V-belts as they are
sometimes called, are located at the front of
the engine and play an important role in the
overall operation of the vehicle and its
components. Due to their function and
material make-up, the belts are prone to
failure after a period of time and should be
inspected and adjusted periodically to prevent
major engine damage.
2The number of belts used on a particular
vehicle depends on the accessories installed.
The main belt transmits power from the
crankshaft to the water pump, alternator and
the power steering pump. The second belt
transmits power from the crankshaft to the air
conditioning compressor.
3With the engine off, open the bonnet and
locate the drivebelts. With a flashlight, check
each belt for separation of the adhesive
rubber on both sides of the core, core
separation from the belt side, a severed core,
separation of the ribs from the adhesive
rubber, cracking or separation of the ribs, and
torn or worn ribs or cracks in the inner ridges
of the ribs (see illustrations). Also check for
fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a
shiny appearance. Both sides of the belt
should be inspected, which means you will
have to twist the belt to check the underside.
Use your fingers to feel the belt where you
can’t see it. If any of the above conditions are
evident, replace the belt (go to paragraph 7).
4Check the belt tension by pushing firmly on
the belt with your thumb at a distance halfway
between the pulleys and note how far the beltcan be pushed (deflected). Measure this
deflection with a ruler (see illustration). As a
rule of thumb, if the distance from pulley
centre-to- pulley centre is between 7 and
11 inches, the belt should deflect 1/4-inch. If
the belt travels between pulleys spaced 12 to
16 inches apart, the belt should deflect
1/2-inch for a V-belt or 1/4-inch for a
serpentine belt.
Adjustment
5There are two belt tensioning mechanisms.
The first one adjusts the air conditioning
compressor belt, which is accessible from
underneath the car. The second tensioning
mechanism is above the alternator - it adjusts
the tension on the main belt (the water pump,
alternator and power steering pump belt).
6The air conditioning compressor and the
alternator each have a belt tensioning
mechanism and pivot bolt(s) which must be
loosened slightly to enable you to move the
component (see illustrations).
7After the bolts have been loosened, belt
tension can be adjusted by either loosening or
tightening the locknuts on the belt tensioning
adjustment rod (see illustration 21.6a and b).
Move the component away from the engine totighten the belt or toward the engine to loosen
the belt.
8Measure the belt tension using the method
described in paragraph 4. Repeat this
procedure until the drivebelt is adjusted
properly.
Renewal
9To replace a belt, loosen the drivebelt
adjustment rod and pivot bolt as described
above, slip the belt off the crankshaft pulley
and remove it. If you are replacing the
alternator/power steering pump belt, you’ll
have to remove the air conditioning
1•16Every 15 000 miles or 12 months
21.3a Small cracks in the underside of a
serpentine belt are acceptable -
lengthwise cracks, or missing pieces, are
cause for replacement
21.3b Here are some of the more common
problems associated with V-belts (check
the belts very carefully to prevent an
untimely breakdown)
21.4 Measuring drivebelt deflection with a
straightedge and ruler
21.6a To adjust the alternator/power
steering drivebelt, loosen the outer locknut
(arrowed) and the alternator pivot bolt -
turn the inner locknut anti-clockwise to
loosen or clockwise to tighten the belt21.6b To adjust the air conditioning
compressor drivebelt, loosen the outer
locknut (arrowed) and the compressor
pivot bolts - turn the inner locknut anti-
clockwise to loosen or clockwise to
tighten the belt
3261 Jaguar XJ6

compressor belt first because of the way they
are arranged on the crankshaft pulley.
Because of this and because belts tend to
wear out more or less together, it is a good
idea to replace both belts at the same time.
Mark each belt and its appropriate pulley
groove so the new belts can be installed in
their proper positions.
10Take the old belts to the parts store in
order to make a direct comparison for length,
width and design.
11After replacing a ribbed drivebelt, make
sure that it fits properly in the ribbed grooves
in the pulleys (see illustration). It is essential
that the belt be properly centred.
12Adjust the belt(s) in accordance with the
procedure outlined above.
22 Front wheel bearing check
and adjustment
3
Check and repack
1In most cases the front wheel bearings will
not need servicing until the brake pads are
changed. However, the bearings should be
checked whenever the front of the vehicle is
raised for any reason. Several items, including
a torque wrench and special grease, are
required for this procedure (see illustration).2With the vehicle securely supported on axle
stands, spin each wheel and check for noise,
rolling resistance and freeplay.
3Grasp the top of each tyre with one hand
and the bottom with the other. Move the
wheel in-and-out on the spindle. If there’s any
noticeable movement, the bearings should be
checked and then repacked with grease or
renewed if necessary.
4Remove the wheel.
5Remove the brake caliper (see Chapter 9)
and hang it out of the way on a piece of wire.
A wood block of the appropriate width can be
slid between the brake pads to keep them
separated, if necessary. Also remove the
brake disc.
6Pry the dust cap out of the hub using a
screwdriver or a hammer and chisel (see
illustration).
7Straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin,
then pull the cotter pin out of the nut lock (see
illustration).Discard the cotter pin and use a
new one during reassembly.
8Remove the locknut, nut and washer from
the end of the spindle.
9Pull the hub out slightly, then push it back
into its original position. This should force theouter bearing off the spindle enough so it can
be removed (see illustration).
10Pull the hub off the spindle. Note:
Sometimes the inner wheel bearing and
grease seal remain attached to the spindle.
Grasp the back of the seal with both hands
and pull forward to remove them.
11If the grease seal is not already detached
from the hub, use a screwdriver to pry the seal
out of the rear of the hub. As this is done, note
how the seal is installed.
12If the inner wheel bearing is not already
detached from the hub, remove it at this time.
13Use solvent to remove all traces of the old
grease from the bearings, hub and spindle. A
small brush may prove helpful; however make
sure no bristles from the brush embed
themselves inside the bearing rollers. Allow
the parts to air dry.
14Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks,
heat discoloration, worn rollers, etc. Check
the bearing races inside the hub for wear and
damage. If the bearing races are defective,
the hubs should be taken to a machine
workshop with the facilities to remove the old
races and press new ones in. Note that the
bearings and races come as matched sets
Every 15 000 miles or 12 months 1•17
1
22.1 Tools and materials needed for front
wheel bearing maintenance
1 Hammer
2 Grease - High-temperature grease that is
formulated specially for front wheel
bearings should be used
3 Wood block - If you have a scrap piece
of 2x4, it can be used to drive the new
seal into the hub
4 Needle-nose pliers - Used to straighten
and remove the cotter pin in the spindle
5 Torque wrench - This is very important in
this procedure; if the bearing is too tight,
the wheel won’t turn freely - if it’s too
loose, the wheel will “wobble” on the
spindle. Either way, it could mean
extensive damage
6 Screwdriver - Used to remove the seal
from the hub (a long screwdriver is
preferred)
7 Socket/breaker bar - Needed to loosen the
nut on the spindle if it’s extremely tight
8 Brush - Together with some clean
solvent, this will be used to remove old
grease from the hub and spindle
22.6 Dislodge the dust cap by working
around the outer circumference with a
hammer and chisel
22.7 Remove the cotter pin and discard it -
use a new one when the hub is reinstalled22.9 Pull the hub assembly forward
slightly - then push it back into position to
dislodge the outer wheel bearing
3261 Jaguar XJ6 21.11 When refitting ribbed (serpentine)
drivebelts, make sure the belt is centred
between the pulley edges (arrowed) - it
must not overlap either edge of the pulley

and old bearings should never be installed on
new races.
15Use high-temperature front wheel bearing
grease to pack the bearings. Work the grease
completely into the bearings, forcing it
between the rollers, cone and cage from the
back side (see illustration).
16Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle
at the outer bearing seat, inner bearing seat,
shoulder and seal seat.
17Put a small quantity of grease inboard of
each bearing race inside the hub. Using your
finger, form a dam at these points to provide
extra grease availability and to keep thinned
grease from flowing out of the bearing (see
illustration).
18Place the grease-packed inner bearing
into the rear of the hub and put a little more
grease outboard of the bearing.
19Place a new seal over the inner bearing
and tap the seal evenly into place until it’s
flush with the hub (see illustration).
20Carefully place the hub assembly onto the
spindle and push the grease-packed outer
bearing into position (see illustration).
Adjustment
21Refit the washer and spindle nut. Tighten
the nut only slightly (no more than 16Nm/12
lbf ft of torque).
22Rotate the hub slowly in a forward
direction while tightening the spindle nut toapproximately 27Nm (20 lbf ft) to seat the
bearings. Remove any grease or burrs which
could cause excessive bearing play later.
23Loosen the spindle nut 1/4-turn, then
using your hand (not a spanner of any kind),
tighten the nut until it’s snug. Refit the nut lock
and a new cotter pin through the hole in the
spindle and the slots in the nut lock. If the
nut lock slots don’t line up, remove the nut
lock and turn it slightly until they do (see
illustration).
24Bend the ends of the cotter pin until
they’re flat against the nut. Cut off any extra
length which could interfere with the dust cap.
25Refit the dust cap, tapping it into place
with a hammer.
26Refit the brake disc and caliper in the
reverse order of removal (see Chapter 9).
27Refit the wheel on the hub and tighten the
wheel nuts.
28Grasp the top and bottom of the tyre and
check the bearings in the manner described
earlier in this Section.
29Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel
nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s
Specifications.
23 Propshaft check
2
1Referring to Chapter 8, check the propshaft
centre bearing, universal joint and flexible
coupling for signs of wear or damage and
check that the propshaft fixings are tightened
to the specified torque.
24 Front wheel alignment check
5
1Accurate wheel alignment requires access
to specialised test equipment and as such
should be entrusted to a suitably equipped
Jaguar dealer or a tyre specialist (refer to
Chapter 10).
25 Headlight beam check
5
1Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
is only possible using optical beam-setting
equipment, and this work should therefore be
carried out by a Jaguar dealer or garage with
the necessary facilities (see Chapter 12).
1•18Every 15 000 miles or 12 months
22.15 Work the grease completely into the
bearing rollers22.17 Apply a thin layer of grease to the
inner and outer bearing races22.19 After refitting the inner wheel
bearing into the hub - press the grease
seal into place
22.20 Refit the hub assembly onto the
spindle - then push the grease-packed
outer bearing into position22.23 Position the nut lock on the spindle
nut so that it lines up with the cotter pin
hole - DO NOT loosen the spindle nut from
its snug position
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
2A
Chapter 2 Part A
Engine in-car repair procedures
General
Cylinder numbers (front to rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-2-3-4-5-6
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-5-3-6-2-4
Displacement:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3239 cc
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3590 cc
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3980 cc
Bore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91.0 mm (3.583 inches)
Stroke:
3.2 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.0 mm (3.268 inches)
3.6 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92.0 mm (3.622 inches)
4.0 litre engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102.0 mm (4.016 inches)
Camshafts and lifters
Journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.9370 to 26.9494 mm (1.0605 to 1.0610 inches)
Bearing oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.037 to 0.063 mm (0.0014 to 0.0024 inch)
Runout limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0406 mm (0.0016 inch)
Lobe lift (maximum variation between lobes) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.0127 mm (0.005 inch)
Valve lifter
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33.34 to 33.35 mm (1.3126 to 1.3130 inches)
Oil clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.050 mm (0.0008 to 0.0020 inch)
Valve clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.30 to 0.36 mm (0.012 to 0.014 inch)
Oil pump
Outer rotor to body clearance, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 mm (0.0079 inch)
Outer rotor OD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69.774 to 69.825 mm (2.7470 to 2.7490 inches)
Rotor thickness, inner and outer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.962 to 27.975 mm (1.1008 to 1.1013 inches)
Clearance over rotors, maximum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.1 mm (0.0039 inch) Auxiliary shaft - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Camshafts and lifters - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . 10
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Cylinder compression check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Driveplate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Engine mounts - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Engine - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2BExhaust manifolds - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intake manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Timing chains and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . 8
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for number one piston - locating . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Valves - servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2B
Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3
2A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

damage the crankshaft in the process (if the
crankshaft is damaged, the new seal will end
up leaking).
9The crankshaft seal rides on a spacer that
slips over the front of the crankshaft. Slip the
spacer off and clean the varnish off the seal
surface (see illustration).
10Clean the bore in the cover and coat the
outer edge of the new seal with engine oil or
multi-purpose grease. Apply moly-base
grease to the seal lip.
11Lubricate the spacer with clean engine oil
and refit it onto the crankshaft. Using a socket
with an outside diameter slightly smaller than
the outside diameter of the seal, carefully
drive the new seal into place with a hammer
(see illustration). Make sure it’s installed
squarely and driven in to the same depth as
the original. If a socket isn’t available, a short
section of large-diameter pipe will also work.
Note:The new seal comes with a plastic
installer guide. Do not remove this guide until
refitting is completed. The guide keeps the
seal lip properly oriented over the crankshaft.
12Refit the Woodruff key, then refit the
damper. Tighten the damper bolt to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Note:The damper bolt can be used to pull the
damper back onto the crankshaft, but make
sure the damper is perfectly aligned with the
Woodruff key.
13The rest of the assembly is the reverse of
the removal procedure.
14Run the engine and check for oil leaks at
the front seal.
8 Timing chains
and sprockets- removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Caution: If the timing chain broke during
engine operation, the valves may have
come in contact with the pistons, causingdamage. Check the valve clearance (see
Section 10) before removal of the cylinder
head - bent valves usually will have
excessive clearance, indicating damage
that will require machine workshop work to
repair.
Note 1:This procedure requires that the sump
be removed (see Section 12).In a professional
workshop, this would be performed as an in-
car procedure with specialised tools to
remove the front suspension. Given the
equipment available to the average home
mechanic, this alternate procedure requires
removal of the engine from the car.
Note 2:If your engine is a 4.0 litre, built after
serial number 9J160552, and you’re
experiencing an engine rattle on cold starts
that disappears after the engine is warmed up,
the problem could be a defective upper
tensioner. A newly designed replacement
upper tensioner is available from the dealer
and should solve the problem. It can be
installed easily without pulling the cylinder
head or front cover, or can be installed during
a chain removal procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Block the rear wheels and set the
handbrake.
3Refer to Part B of this Chapter for engine
removal procedures.
4Refer to Section 4 and remove the valve
cover.
5Refer to Section 3 and position the engine
at TDC for cylinder number 1, then mark and
remove the distributor (see Chapter 5).
6Refer to Section 11 and remove the cylinder
head. After cylinder head removal, the uppertiming chain will be loosely retained by the
two upper chain guides, which are retained by
refitting a large rubber band (see Section 10).
Caution: Do not rotate the crankshaft with
the upper timing chain disconnected and
the cylinder head and camshafts in place,
or damage could result from piston-to-
valve contact.
7Some models may be equipped with a
hydraulic pump used for the brake
servo/hydraulic self-levelling suspension
system. If equipped, it will be mounted to the
front cover. Models not equipped with this
option will have a flat block-off plate over the
hole. If equipped with the pump, refer to
Chapters 9 and 10 for procedures to reduce
the high pressure in the brake servo system
and to depressurise the self-levelling system.
Before removing the engine, unbolt the pump
from the front cover and set it aside without
disconnecting the hoses (see illustration).
8Refer to Section 7 and remove the
crankshaft pulley and damper. Refer to
Section 12 for removal of the sump.
9If equipped with the hydraulic pump,
remove the coupling disc and unbolt the drive
coupling from the intermediate shaft (see
illustrations).
2A•6 Engine in-car repair procedures
8.7 Unbolt the hydraulic pump (arrowed)
from the front cover, without
disconnecting the hoses
3261 Jaguar XJ6 7.9 Remove the spacer from the end of the crankshaft
and clean it thoroughly
7.11 Drive the new seal squarely into the front cover with a large
socket or section of pipe - do not remove the plastic refitting
guide (arrowed) until the seal is installed

camshaft to ensure that they are truly at TDC
(see illustration). It may be necessary to
rotate the crankshaft slightly, to allow the tool
to fit into the slot. Once the camshafts are
positioned, DO NOT rotate the crankshaft
further.
6Check the TDC marks made on the
distributor body and refer to Chapter 5 for
removal of the distributor. Note:Plug the
distributor hole with a rag to keep out dirt.7Locate the upper timing chain tensioner on
the right front of the cylinder head. Loosen the
bolt on the clamp and swing the clamp away
from the tensioner return valve, then remove
the valve (see illustration).
8Remove the tensioner bolts and pull out the
tensioner.
9The camshaft bearing caps are each
retained by three bolts (the two front caps on
each camshaft have only two bolts), of whichone is a cylinder head bolt that threads into the
engine block. If the camshafts are being
removed as a step in cylinder head removal,
the following steps involving spacer blocks are
not required, just remove the bolts and caps,
then remove the camshafts. If the procedure is
being used for camshaft removal or adjustment
of the lifter shims, the procedure must be
followed exactly to maintain the cylinder head
gasket seal.
10To maintain a good seal on the cylinder
head gasket, if the cylinder head is not being
removed, a spacer block (Jaguar tool no.
18G 1435) is used to replace each camshaft
bearing cap as it is removed. Begin by
unbolting and removing intake cap no. 2.
Remove the large cylinder head bolt first, then
the cap bolts. Without delay, refit a spacer
block, with the cylinder head bolt, and tighten it
to 53 Nm (39 lbf ft) (see illustrations).
11Repeat paragraph 10 with the remainder
of the intake camshaft caps in sequence. After
cap 5 in the sequence, loosen the front and
rear caps alternately until valve spring
pressure is relieved from the camshaft (see
illustrations). Note:No spacer blocks are
required with the number 1 camshaft caps.
2A•10 Engine in-car repair procedures
10.7 Loosen this bolt (arrowed) and swing
the clamp away from the tensioner, then
use pliers to pull the valve out10.10a As each cap is removed . . .10.10b . . . replace it with the special
spacer block (arrowed) and tighten the
cylinder head bolt to 53 Nm (39 lbf ft)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.4 Measure the valve clearance with a feeler gauge inserted
between the heel of the camshaft lobe and the lifter
10.5 Position the camshaft alignment tool over each camshaft - the
projection on the tool only fits into the slot on the camshafts when
they are at TDC - flip the tool over to check the other camshaft
10.11a Each of the camshaft bearing caps
are stamped with I (intake) or E (exhaust)
and a number (arrowed)10.11b After cap no. 2 is replaced with a
spacer, repeat the procedure for the other
caps in the sequence shown - after cap 5,
loosen caps 6 and 7 alternately until valve
spring pressure is relieved