1997 JAGUAR XJ6 fuses

3261 Jaguar XJ6
LIVING WITH YOUR JAGUAR XJ6
IntroductionPage 0•4
Notes for UK readersPage 0•4
Safety first!Page 0•5
Roadside repairs
IntroductionPage 0•6
If your car won’t startPage 0•6
Jump startingPage 0•7
Wheel changingPage 0•8
Identifying leaksPage 0•9
TowingPage 0•9
Weekly checks
IntroductionPage 0•10
Underbonnet check points Page 0•10
Engine oil levelPage 0•11
Coolant levelPage 0•11
Brake fluid levelPage 0•12
Screen washer fluid level Page 0•12
Power steering fluid level Page 0•13
Wiper bladesPage 0•13
Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14
BatteryPage 0•15
Bulbs and fusesPage 0•15
Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressuresPage 0•16
MAINTENANCE
Routine maintenance and servicingPage 1•1
Servicing specificationsPage 1•2
Maintenance schedulePage 1•3
Maintenance procedures Page 1•6
Contents

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Weekly checks0•15
Battery
Caution:Before carrying out any work on the
vehicle battery, read the precautions given in
"Safety first" at the start of this manual.
4Make sure that the battery tray is in good
condition, and that the clamp is tight.
Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the
battery itself can be removed with a solution
of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all
cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts
damaged by corrosion should be covered
with a zinc-based primer, then painted.
4Periodically (approximately every three
months), check the charge condition of the
battery as described in Chapter 5.
4If the battery is flat, and you need to jump
start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.
The battery is located in the left-hand,
rear corner of the engine compartment.
Check the battery terminals for signs of
corrosion and examine the battery leads
closely for signs of damage.1Check the battery lead clamps for
tightness to ensure good electrical
connections.2
Battery corrosion can be kept to a
minimum by applying a layer of
petroleum jelly to the clamps and
terminals after they are reconnected.If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is
evident, remove the cables from the
battery terminals, clean them with a small
wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores
sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .3. . . as well as the battery cable clamps4
Bulbs and fuses
4Check all external lights and the horn. Refer
to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for
details if any of the circuits are found to be
inoperative.4Visually check all accessible wiring
connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for
security, and for signs of chafing or damage.
If you need to check your
brake lights and indicators
unaided, back up to a wall or
garage door and operate the
lights. The reflected light should show if
they are working properly.
If a single indicator light, stop light or
headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb
has blown and will need to be replaced.
Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stop
lights have failed, it is possible that the switch
has failed (see Chapter 9).If more than one indicator light or tail light
has failed it is likely that either a fuse has
blown or that there is a fault in the circuit.
The fuseboxes are located behind the left and
right side kick panels and in the centre
console glove box (see Chapter 12).
2
To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out
and fit a new fuse of the correct rating
(see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again,
it is important that you find out why - a
complete checking procedure is given in
Chapter 12.31

13Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the fan clutch-to-fan blade bolts and the fan
assembly-to-drive hub nut to the torque listed
in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Electric fans
Check
Warning: Keep your hands or
clothing away from the fan
blades at all times.
14On 1988 through 1992 models, a single
electric fan is mounted in front of the radiator,
controlled by a thermostatic switch. Access to
the fan is with the grille removed. The 1993
and 1994 models have a fan shroud assembly
that includes two electric fans, and a “twin”
thermostatic switch, with the assembly
mounted on the engine side of the radiator.
15If the electric fan does not come on at any
time, bypass the thermostatic switch by
disconnecting the electrical connector at the
switch and connecting the two pins with a
jumper wire (see illustration). If the fan now
operates, renew the thermostatic switch. If the
fan doesn’t operate, the problem is either the
fan relay or the fan motor. On 1993 and 1994
models with twin electric fans, jumpering one
set of connections in the plug from the switch
should make both fans operate at slow speed
(fans in series) and jumpering the other two
should run both fans at higher speed (fans in
parallel). In normal operation, the fans operate
at the higher-speed only when the air
conditioning is on, or when coolant
temperature exceeds 212° F. When the
coolant cools down to below 200° F, the fans
revert to the normal speed.
16To renew a defective thermostatic switch,
allow the vehicle to cool off and drain the
coolant (see Chapter 1). Remove the switch
from the radiator and refit the new switch.
Connect the electrical connector and test
again for proper fan operation.17To test an inoperative fan motor (one that
doesn’t come on when the engine gets hot or
when the air conditioner is on), first check the
fuses and/or fusible links (see Chapter 12).
Then disconnect the electrical connector at
the motor (refer to Chapter 11 for removal of
the grille for access on front-mounted-fan
models) and use fused jumper wires to
connect the fan directly to the battery and to
chassis ground (see illustration). If the fan
still does not work, renew the fan motor.
Warning: Do not allow the test
clips to contact each other or
any metallic part of the vehicle.
18If the motor tested OK in the previous test
but is still inoperative, then the fault lies in the
relay, fuse, or wiring. The fan relay can be
tested for continuity (see Chapter 12).
Renewal
19Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.20Access the 1988 through 1992 single
electric fan with the grille removed (see
Chapter 11 for grille removal). Disconnect the
electrical connector and remove the bolts
holding the fan assembly to the body (see
illustration).
21On 1993 and 1994 models, remove the
two bolts holding the fan shroud to the top of
the radiator and lift the shroud/fans assembly
from the vehicle.
22If the fan on 1988 to 1992 models must be
renewed, renew the fan, motor and shroud as
a unit. The fan is separate from the shroud on
later models.
23Refitting is the reverse of removal. If the
thermostatic switch was renewed, refill the
cooling system.5 Radiator, expansion tank
and coolant reservoir-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: Do not start this
procedure until the engine is
completely cool.
Radiator
Removal
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Drain the coolant into a container (see
Chapter 1).
3Remove both the upper and lower radiator
hoses, and the small expansion tank hose from
the top left of the radiator (see illustration).
4Remove the cooling fan and shroud (see
Section 4).
3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
4.20 Disconnect the fan’s electrical
connector (large arrow) and remove the
bolts (small arrows) on single-fan models -
grille is removed here
3261 Jaguar XJ6 4.15 Disconnect the electrical connector (A) from the
thermostatic switch (B) in the radiator and bypass it with a
jumper wire (C) - the fan should operate now with the ignition on
4.17 Disconnect the fan wiring connector and connect jumper
wires from there directly to the positive and negative terminals of
the battery - the purple wire’s terminal should receive the battery
power and the black wire’s terminal should be earthed

4Remove the water pump mounting bolts
(see illustration).
Note 1:The water pump is sold as a complete
assembly, including the rear housing with the
hose connections. Unless the rear housing is
corroded or cracked, many Jaguar mechanics
only refit the pump assembly itself, using the
original rear housing with all its hoses intact.
However, if the engine has a great deal of
years or mileage on it, it would be a good idea
to renew those hoses as well, in which case
the new rear housing can be installed.
Note 2:There are three different lengths of
water pump bolts. The longer bolts retain the
pump and rear housing to the engine(see
illustration 7.3).
5If the pump doesn’t come loose right away,
tap it with a soft-faced hammer to break the
gasket seal. Be careful not to hit the radiator
fins with the pump during removal.
6Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces,
removing all traces of gasket or sealant from
the back of the pump and the face of the
housing.
7Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the sealing
surface on the back of the pump. Refit the
pump and bolts, tightening the bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal. Note:If the pump has been
renewed after many miles of usage, it’s a good
idea to also renew the hoses connected to the
water pump housing(see illustrations). Refer
to Chapter 2A for intake manifold removal to
access the coolant pipes and hoses. If you
have noticed water leaks or stains on the left
side of the engine, the leaks may be coming
from these pipes and hoses.
9Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1),
run the engine and check for leaks and proper
operation.
9 Coolant temperature
sender unit- check and
renewal
2
Warning: Do not start this
procedure until the engine is
completely cool.
Check
1If the coolant temperature gauge is
inoperative, check the fuses first (Chapter 12).
2If the temperature gauge indicates
excessive temperature after running awhile,
see the Fault finding section at the rear of the
manual.
3If the temperature gauge indicates Hot as
soon as the engine is started cold, disconnect
the wire at the coolant temperature sender
(see illustration). If the gauge reading drops,
renew the sender unit. If the reading remains
high, the wire to the gauge may be shorted to
ground, or the gauge is faulty.
4If the coolant temperature gauge fails to
show any indication after the engine has been
warmed up, (approx. 10 minutes) and the
fuses checked out OK, shut off the engine.
Disconnect the wire at the sender unit and,
using a jumper wire, connect the wire to a
clean ground on the engine. Briefly turn on the
ignition without starting the engine. If the
gauge now indicates Hot, renew the sender
unit.
5If the gauge fails to respond, the circuit may
be open or the gauge may be faulty - see
Chapter 12 for additional information.
Renewal
6Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1).
7Disconnect the electrical connector from
the sender unit.8Using a deep socket or a spanner, remove
the sender unit.
9Refit the new unit and tighten it securely.
Do not use thread sealant as it may
electrically insulate the sender unit.
10Reconnect the wiring connector, refill the
cooling system and check for coolant leakage
and proper gauge function.
10 Heating and air conditioning
blower motors- circuit check
and component renewal
3
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent accidental deployment
of the airbag, which could cause
personal injury or damage to the airbag
system, DO NOT work in the vicinity of the
steering wheel or instrument panel. Jaguar
recommends that, on airbag-equipped
models, the following procedure should be
left to a dealer service department or other
repair workshop because of the special
tools and techniques required to disable
the airbag system.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2There are two blower motors, one under the
left side of the dash and one behind the glove
compartment (see illustration). If the blower
doesn’t work, check the fuse and all
connections in the circuit for looseness and
corrosion. Make sure the battery is fully
charged. To access the right blower, remove
the glove compartment liner, the glove
compartment door and the right lower dash
panel (see Chapter 11).
Warning: When working around
the area behind the glove box,
watch out for a strip of sheet
metal bracing that has a very
sharp edge (see illustration). Apply some
heavy duct tape to the edge of the brace
before beginning work in this area, or you
could injure your hands.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•7
3
8.4 Remove the water pump mounting
bolts (arrows indicate five visible here)8.8a Once the water pump is removed, the
rear housing (arrowed) is held in place only
by the hoses - check them for leakage and
condition whenever the pump is disturbed8.8b The water pipe (arrowed) may need
new gaskets where it meets the block - the
pipe is best accessed from below or with
the intake manifold unbolted
9.3 The coolant temperature sender unit
(arrowed) is located in the top of the
thermostat housing - it is the sender unit
with the single wire
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
5
Chapter 5
Engine electrical systems
Ignition system
Ignition timing (all models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Not adjustable
Ignition coil resistance (at 68°F):
Primary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.4 to 0.5 ohms
Secondary resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 to 6.5 k-ohms
Charging system
Charging voltage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13.9 to 15.1 volts
Standard amperage:
No load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Less than 10 amps
Full load . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 amps or more Amplifier - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Alternator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Battery cables - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Battery check, maintenance and charging . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Battery - emergency jump starting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Battery - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Charging system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Charging system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . 10
CHECK ENGINE light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 6
Distributor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Drivebelt check, adjustment and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Ignition coil - check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Ignition system - check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Ignition system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Spark plug lead, distributor cap and rotor check
and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1
Starter motor - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Starter motor - testing in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Starter solenoid - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Starting system - general information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . 13
5•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
1 General information
The engine electrical systems include all
ignition, charging and starting components.
Because of their engine related functions,
these components are discussed separately
from chassis electrical devices such as the
fuses, relays, lights, etc. (which are included in
Chapter 12).
Always observe the following precautions
when working on the electrical systems:
a) Be extremely careful when servicing
engine electrical components. They are
easily damaged if checked, connected or
handled improperly.
b) Never leave the ignition switch on for long
periods of time (10 minutes maximum)
with the engine off.c) Don’t disconnect the battery cables while
the engine is running.
d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting
a battery cable from another vehicle
during jump starting.
e) Always disconnect the negative cable first
and hook it up last or the battery may be
shorted by the tool being used to loosen
the cable clamps.
It’s also a good idea to review the safety-
related information regarding the engine
electrical systems in the Safety first section
near the front of this manual before beginning
any operation included in this Chapter.
2 Battery-
emergency jump starting
1
See “Jump starting”in “Roadside repairs”
at the front of this Manual.
3 Battery- removal and refitting
1
1Disconnect the negative terminal, then the
positive terminal from the battery. On 1989 to
1992 models, the battery is located in the
engine compartment on the passenger side
bulkhead and on 1993 and 1994 models, it is
located in the boot.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Remove the battery hold-down clamp.
3Lift out the battery. Be careful, it’s heavy.
4While the battery is out, inspect the carrier
(tray) for corrosion.
5If you are replacing the battery, make sure
that you get one that’s identical, with the

Refitting
7Insert the distributor into the engine in
exactly the same relationship to the block that
it was in when removed.
8If the distributor does not seat completely,
recheck the alignment marks between the
distributor base and the block to verify that
the distributor is in the same position it was in
before removal. Also check the rotor to see if
it’s aligned with the mark you made on the
edge of the distributor base.
9Refit the distributor hold-down bolt(s).
10The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal.
10 Charging system- general
information and precautions
The charging system includes the alternator,
an internal voltage regulator, a charge
indicator light, load dump module, the battery,
an ignition ON relay, an in-line fuse and the
wiring between all the components (see
illustration). The charging system supplies
electrical power for the ignition system, the
lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven by
a drivebelt at the front of the engine.
The purpose of the voltage regulator is to
limit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value.
This prevents power surges, circuit overloads,
etc., during peak voltage output.
The alternator load dump module protects
the electrical circuits from excessive voltage
surges. When the battery cables are removed
large amounts of transient voltage is released
through the electrical circuits. This device
diverts up to 30 load volts of excess voltage to
earth by way of a voltage dependent resistor.
The in-line fuse is a special fuse installed
into the circuit with the engine compartment
wiring harness (see Chapter 12). The in-line
fuse protects the electrical system in the
event of excess voltage surges or a power to
earth short circuit. Refer to Chapter 12 for
additional information concerning the in-line
fuses and their locations.
1993 and 1994 models have a Starter Logic
Relay. This microprocessor (computer)
gathers information from the ignition switch,
linear gear position switch, park/neutral
switch, the security switch and the electronic
door lock system. If all the conditions are in
order, the computer allows battery voltage to
be transferred from the ignition switch to the
starter/solenoid assembly.
The charging system doesn’t ordinarily
require periodic maintenance. However, the
drivebelt, battery and wires and connections
should be inspected at the intervals outlined
in Chapter 1.
The dashboard warning light should come
on when the ignition key is turned to Start,
then should go off immediately. If it remains
on, there is a malfunction in the charging
system. Some vehicles are also equipped with
a voltage gauge. If the voltage gaugeindicates abnormally high or low voltage,
check the charging system (see Section 11).
Be very careful when making electrical
circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with
an alternator and note the following:
a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator
from the battery, note their polarity.
b) Before using arc welding equipment to
repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect
the wires from the alternator and the
battery terminals.
c) Never start the engine with a battery
charger connected.
d) Always disconnect both battery leads
before using a battery charger.
e) The alternator is driven by an engine
drivebelt which could cause serious injury
if your hand, hair or clothes become
entangled in it with the engine running.
f) Because the alternator is connected
directly to the battery, it could arc or
cause a fire if overloaded or shorted out.
g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator and
secure it with rubber bands before steam
cleaning the engine.
11 Charging system- check
2
Note:1993 and 1994 models are equipped
with a Starter Logic Relay. This microprocessor
(computer) gathers information from theignition switch, linear gear position switch,
park/neutral switch, the security switch and the
electronic door lock system. If all the conditions
are in order, the computer allows battery
voltage to be transferred from the ignition
switch to the starter/solenoid assembly. If all
the components of the charging system are
working properly and the system still does not
charge properly, have the Starter Logic Relay
diagnosed by a dealer service department.
1If a malfunction occurs in the charging
circuit, don’t automatically assume that the
alternator is causing the problem. First check
the following items:
a) Check the drivebelt tension and its
condition. Renew it if worn or damaged.
b) Make sure the alternator mounting and
adjustment bolts are tight.
c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and
the electrical connectors at the alternator
and voltage regulator. They must be in
good condition and tight.
d) Check the fusible link (if equipped)
located between the starter solenoid and
the alternator or the large main fuses in
the engine compartment. If it’s burned,
determine the cause, repair the circuit
and renew the link or fuse (the vehicle
won’t start and/or the accessories won’t
work if the fusible link or fuse blows).
e) Check all the in-line fuses that are in series
with the charging system circuit (see
Chapter 12).The location of these fuses
and fusible links may vary from year and
Engine electrical systems 5•5
5
10.1 Schematic of a typical charging system
3261 Jaguar XJ6

Test the brakes at various speeds with both
light and heavy pedal pressure. The vehicle
should stop evenly without pulling to one side
or the other. Avoid locking the brakes,
because this slides the tyres and diminishes
braking efficiency and control of the vehicle.
Tyres, vehicle load and wheel alignment are
factors which also affect braking performance.
2 Anti-lock Brake system
(ABS)- general information
The Anti-lock Brake System is designed to
maintain vehicle steerability, directional stability
and optimum deceleration under severe
braking conditions on most road surfaces. It
does so by monitoring the rotational speed of
each wheel and controlling the brake line
pressure to each wheel during braking. This
prevents the wheels from locking up.
The ABS system has three main units - the
wheel speed sensors, the electronic control unit
and the modulator (hydraulic control unit). The
sensors - one at each wheel - send a variable
voltage signal to the electronic control unit,
which monitors these signals, compares them
to its program and determines whether a wheel
is about to lock up. When a wheel is about to
lock up, the control unit signals the hydraulic
unit to reduce hydraulic pressure (or not
increase it further) at that wheel’s brake caliper.
Pressure modulation is handled by three
electrically-operated solenoid valves - one for
each front wheel and one for the rear wheels -
inside the modulator.
If a problem develops within the system, an
“ABS” warning light will glow on the dashboard.
Sometimes, a visual inspection of the ABS
system can help you locate the problem.
Carefully inspect the ABS wiring harness. Pay
particularly close attention to the harness and
connections near each wheel. Look for signs of
chafing and other damage caused by
incorrectly routed wires. If a wheel sensor
harness is damaged, the sensor should be
replaced (the harness and sensor are integral).
Warning: Do NOT try to repair an
ABS wiring harness. The ABS
system is sensitive to even thesmallest changes in resistance. Repairing
the harness could alter resistance values
and cause the system to malfunction. If the
ABS wiring harness is damaged in any way,
it must be replaced.
Caution: Make sure the ignition is turned
off before unplugging or reattaching any
electrical connections.
Diagnosis and repair
If a dashboard warning light comes on and
stays on while the vehicle is in operation, the
ABS system requires attention. Although
special electronic ABS diagnostic testing tools
are necessary to properly diagnose the system,
you can perform a few preliminary checks
before taking the vehicle to a dealer service
department or other qualified repair workshop.
a) Check the brake fluid level in the master
cylinder reservoir.
b) Verify that all ABS system electrical
connectors in the engine compartment
are plugged in.
c) Check the fuses.
d) Follow the wiring harness to each front
wheel and to the differential sensor and
verify that all connections are secure and
that the wiring is undamaged.
If the above preliminary checks do not
rectify the problem, the vehicle should be
diagnosed by a dealer service department.
Due to the complex nature of this system, all
actual repair work must be done by a dealer
service department or other qualified repair
workshop.
3 Disc brake pads- renewal
2
Warning: Disc brake pads must
be replaced on both front wheels
or both rear wheels at the same
time - never renew the pads on
only one wheel. Also, the dust created by
the brake system may contain asbestos,
which is harmful to your health. Never blow
it out with compressed air and don’t inhale
any of it. An approved filtering mask should
be worn when working on the brakes. Do
not, under any circumstances, use
petroleum-based solvents to clean brake
parts. Use brake system cleaner only!
Note:The following procedure applies to both
the front and rear brake pads.
1Remove the cap from the brake fluid
reservoir and siphon off about two-thirds of
the fluid from the reservoir. Failing to do this
could result in fluid overflowing when the
caliper pistons are pressed into their bores.
2Loosen the wheel nuts, raise the front of the
vehicle and support it securely on axle stands.
3Remove the front wheels. Work on one
brake assembly at a time, using the
assembled brake for reference if necessary.
4Inspect the brake disc (see Section 5).
5Follow the accompanying photos,
beginning with illustration 3.5a, for the pad
removal procedure. Be sure to stay in order
and read the caption under each illustration.
9•2 Braking system
3.5a Before starting, wash down the
caliper and disc with brake cleaner
3.5b Attach a hose to the bleed screw,
open the bleed screw slightly and depress
the piston into the caliper. Tighten the
bleed screw when the piston bottoms
3.5c Remove the caliper mounting bolts
(upper bolt arrowed); use another spanner
to hold the flats of the caliper guide pins
while you back out the caliper bolts3.5d Remove the caliper . . .3.5e . . . and suspend it out of the way
with a piece of wire
3261 Jaguar XJ6

at a time, so you can use the other side as a
reference during reassembly.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
7After refitting the brake disc, adjust the
handbrake shoes. Temporarily refit two nuts,
turn the adjuster (see illustration 5.7c)and
expand the shoes until the disc locks, then
back off the adjuster until you can spin the
disc without the shoes dragging.
8Adjust the handbrake cable (Section 10).
9Remove the axle stands and lower the
vehicle. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified
torque (see Chapter 1 Specifications).
13 Brake light switch-
check and renewal
1
1The brake light switch activates the brake
lights when the brake pedal is depressed. It‘s
located at the top of the brake pedal, inside
the pedal box.
2If the brake lights don’t come on when the
brake pedal is depressed, check the fuses
(the fuse for the left brake light is in the left
fuse panel and the fuse for the right brake
light is in the right panel).
3If the fuses are okay, check the brake light
bulbs (see Chapter 12).
4If the fuses and bulbs are okay, either the
switch isn’t getting voltage (there’s an open-
circuit between the voltage source and the
switch), voltage isn’t reaching the brake light
Braking system 9•13
9
12.5j Place the front shoe in position,
insert the pin through the backing plate
and the shoe . . .12.5k . . . and refit the hold-down spring
and washers12.5i Lubricate the six friction points
(two arrowed) on the backing plate with
high-temperature brake grease
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.5l Hook the lower return spring into its
hole in the front shoe . . .
12.5m . . . hook the other end of the
lower spring into the rear shoe . . .12.5n . . . stretch the spring over the top of
the handbrake lever box . . .
12.5o . . . place the rear shoe in position,
insert the pin through the backing plate
and the shoe and refit the rear washers
and hold-down spring12.5p Hook the upper return spring into
the front shoe . . .
12.5q . . . and into the rear shoe12.5r Pull the shoes apart and refit the
adjuster mechanism