1997 JAGUAR XJ6 door lock

actuators, a control unit and associated
wiring. Diagnosis can usually be limited to
simple checks of the wiring connections and
actuators for minor faults which can be easily
repaired. Since this system uses an electronic
control unit, in-depth diagnosis should be left
to a dealership service department.
Central locking systems are operated by bi-
directional solenoids located in the doors. The
lock switches have two operating positions;
Lock and Unlock. When activated, the switch
sends a signal to the door lock control unit to
lock or unlock the doors. Depending on which
way the switch is activated, the control unit
reverses polarity to the solenoids, allowing the
two sides of the circuit to be used alternately
as the feed (positive) and earth side.
Some vehicles may have an anti-theft
system incorporated into the locks. If you are
unable to locate the trouble using the following
general paragraphs, consult a dealer service
department or other properly equipped repair
facility.
1Always check the circuit protection first.
Some vehicles use a combination of circuit
breakers and fuses.
2Operate the door lock switches in both
directions (Lock and Unlock) with the engine off.
Listen for the click of the solenoids operating.
3Test the switches for continuity. Renew the
switch if there’s not continuity in both switch
positions.
4Check the wiring between the switches,
control unit and solenoids for continuity.
Repair the wiring if there’s no continuity.
5Check for a bad earth at the switches or the
control unit.
6If all but one lock solenoid operates,
remove the trim panel from the affected door
(see Chapter 11) and check for voltage at the
solenoid while the lock switch is operated
(see illustration). One of the wires should
have voltage in the Lock position; the other
should have voltage in the Unlock position.
7If the inoperative solenoid is receiving
voltage, renew the solenoid.
8If the inoperative solenoid isn’t receiving
voltage, check for an open or short in the wire
between the lock solenoid and the control
unit. Note:It’s common for wires to break in
the portion of the harness between the body
and door (opening and closing the door
fatigues and eventually breaks the wires).26 Electric mirrors-
description and check
2
1Most electric mirrors use two motors to
move the glass; one for up and down
adjustments and one for left-right adjustments.
2The control switch has a selector portion
which sends voltage to the left or right side
mirror. With the ignition ON but the engine
OFF, roll down the windows and operate the
mirror control switch through all functions
(left-right and up-down) for both the left and
right side mirrors.
3Listen carefully for the sound of the electric
motors running in the mirrors.
4If the motors can be heard but the mirror
glass doesn’t move, there’s probably a
problem with the drive mechanism inside the
mirror. Remove and dismantle the mirror to
locate the problem.
5If the mirrors don’t operate and no sound
comes from the mirrors, check the fuse (see
Chapter 1).
6If the fuse is OK, remove the mirror control
switch from its mounting without
disconnecting the wires attached to it. Turn
the ignition ON and check for voltage at the
switch. There should be voltage at one
terminal. If there’s no voltage at the switch,
check for an open or short in the circuit
between the fuse panel and the switch.
7If there’s voltage at the switch, disconnect
it. Check the switch for continuity in all its
operating positions. If the switch does not
have continuity, renew it.
8Re-connect the switch. Locate the wire
going from the switch to earth. Leaving the
switch connected, connect a jumper wire
between this wire and earth. If the mirror
works normally with this wire in place, repair
the faulty earth connection.
9If the mirror still doesn’t work, remove the
mirror and check the wires at the mirror for
voltage. Check with ignition ON and the mirror
selector switch on the appropriate side.
Operate the mirror switch in all its positions.
There should be voltage at one of the switch-
to-mirror wires in each switch position (except
the neutral “off” position).
10If there’s not voltage in each switch
position, check the circuit between the mirror
and control switch for opens and shorts.
11If there’s voltage, remove the mirror and
test it off the vehicle with jumper wires. Renew
the mirror if it fails this test.
27 Electric sunroof-
description and check
2
1The electric sunroof is powered by a single
motor in the roof behind the overhead console.
The power circuit is protected by a fuse.
2The control switches (tilt and slide) send an
earth signal to the sunroof motor when theswitches are pressed. Power is supplied to
the motor from the relay. With the ignition ON
but the engine OFF, operate the sunroof
control switch through the tilt and slide
functions.
3Listen carefully for the sound of the sunroof
motor running in the roof.
4If the motors can be heard but the sunroof
glass doesn’t move, there’s probably a
problem with the drive mechanism or drive
cables.
5If the sunroof does not operate and no
sound comes from the motor, check the fuse
(see Chapter 1).
6If the fuse is OK, remove the control
switches (see Chapter 11). Disconnect the
wires attached to it. Turn the ignition ON and
check for voltage at the switch. If there’s no
voltage at the switch, check for power and
earth at the motor. If power and earth exist at
the motor and there’s still no voltage at the
switch renew the motor. If there’s no voltage
at the motor, check the relay or an open or
short in the wiring between the relay and the
motor.
7If there’s voltage at the switch, disconnect
it. Check the switch for continuity in all its
operating positions. If the switch does not
have continuity, renew it.
8If the switch has continuity re-connect the
switch. Locate the wire going from the switch
to earth. Leaving the switch connected,
connect a jumper wire between this wire and
earth. If the motor works normally with this
wire in place, repair the faulty earth
connection.
9The sunroof can be closed manually by
inserting the T-handle spanner which is
located inside the overhead console. Insert
the spanner into the motor drive shaft and
rotate the shaft clockwise (see illustration).
28 Airbag system-
general information
Warning: Failure to follow these
precautions could result in
accidental deployment of the
airbag and personal injury.
12•14 Body electrical system
25.6 Check for voltage at the lock
solenoid while the lock switch is operated27.9 To close the sunroof manually, insert
the T-handle spanner in the motor shaft
and rotate it clockwise
3261 Jaguar XJ6

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Use of EnglishREF•3
As the main part of this book has been written in the US, it uses the appropriate US component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these
differ from those used in the UK. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. When ordering spare parts,
remember the parts list may use some of these words:
AMERICAN ENGLISH
Aluminum Aluminium
Antenna Aerial
Authorized Authorised
Auto parts stores Motor factors
Axleshaft Halfshaft
Back-up Reverse
Barrel Choke/venturi
Block Chock
Box-end wrench Ring spanner
Bushing Bush
Carburetor Carburettor
Center Centre
Coast Freewheel
Color Colour
Convertible Drop head coupe
Cotter pin Split pin
Counterclockwise Anti-clockwise
Countershaft (of gearbox) Layshaft
Dashboard Facia
Denatured alcohol Methylated spirit
Dome lamp Interior light
Driveaxle Driveshaft
Driveshaft Propeller shaft
Fender Wing/mudguard
Firewall Bulkhead
Flashlight Torch
Float bowl Float chamber
Floor jack Trolley jack
Freeway, turnpike etc Motorway
Freeze plug Core plug
Frozen Seized
Gas tank Petrol tank
Gasoline (gas) Petrol
Gearshift Gearchange
Generator (DC) Dynamo
Ground (electrical) Earth
Header Exhaust manifold
Heat riser Hot spot
High Top gear
Hood (engine cover) Bonnet
Installation Refitting
Intake Inlet
Jackstands Axle stands
Jumper cable Jump lead
Keeper Collet
Kerosene Paraffin
Knock pin Roll pin
Lash Clearance
Lash Free-play
Latch Catch
Latches Locks
License plate Number plate
Light Lamp
Lock (for valve spring retainer) Split cotter (for valve spring cap)
Lopes Hunts
Lug nut/bolt Wheel nut/bolt
Metal chips or debris Swarf
Misses Misfires
AMERICAN ENGLISH
Muffler Silencer
Odor Odour
Oil pan Sump
Open flame Naked flame
Panel wagon/van Van
Parking brake Handbrake
Parking light Sidelight
Pinging Pinking
Piston pin or wrist pin Gudgeon pin
Piston pin or wrist pin Small end, little end
Pitman arm Drop arm
Power brake booster Servo unit
Primary shoe (of brake) Leading shoe (of brake)
Prussian blue Engineer’s blue
Pry Prise (force apart)
Prybar Lever
Prying Levering
Quarter window Quarterlight
Recap Retread
Release cylinder Slave cylinder
Repair shop Garage
Replacement Renewal
Ring gear (of differential) Crownwheel
Rocker panel (beneath doors) Sill panel (beneath doors)
Rod bearing Big-end bearing
Rotor/disk Disc (brake)
Secondary shoe (of brake) Trailing shoe (of brake)
Sedan Saloon
Setscrew, Allen screw Grub screw
Shock absorber, shock Damper
Snap-ring Circlip
Soft top Hood
Spacer Distance piece
Spare tire Spare wheel
Spark plug wires HT leads
Spindle arm Steering arm
Stabilizer or sway bar Anti-roll bar
Station wagon Estate car
Stumbles Hesitates
Tang or lock Tab washer
Throw-out bearing Thrust bearing
Tie-rod or connecting rod (of steering) Trackrod
Tire Tyre
Transmission Gearbox
Troubleshooting Fault finding/diagnosis
Trunk Boot (luggage compartment)
Turn signal Indicator
TV (throttle valve) cable Kickdown cable
Unpublicized Unpublicised
Valve cover Rocker cover
Valve lifter Tappet
Valve lifter or tappet Cam follower or tappet
Vapor Vapour
Vise Vice
Wheel cover Roadwheel trim
Whole drive line Transmission
Windshield Windscreen
Wrench Spanner

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•4Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should be clean.
Our advice regarding spare parts is as
follows.
Officially appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg, badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy
materials and components needed for themaintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, light bulbs, drivebelts, greases, brake
pads, touch-up paint, etc). Components of
this nature sold by a reputable shop are
usually of the same standard as those used
by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found close to home.
Some accessory shops have parts counters
where components needed for almost any
repair job can be purchased or ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg, brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves). They may also handle work such as
cylinder block reboring, crankshaft regrinding,
etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk of financial loss, and
also of an accident causing injury or death.
Second-hand parts or assemblies obtained
from a car breaker can be a good buy in some
circumstances, but this sort of purchase is
best made by the experienced DIY mechanic.
Vehicle identification
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublicised process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
identification numbers being essential to
correct identification of the part concerned.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture and registration,
chassis and engine numbers as appropriate.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
plate is attached to the base of the driver’s
door pillar left-hand wing valance and is
visible once the bonnet has been opened. The
vehicle identification (chassis) number is also
stamped onto a plate located inside the
windscreen and may also be stamped onto
the right-hand inner wing panel in the engine
compartment (see illustrations).
The trim code and paint codeare also
stamped onto the VIN plate.
The engine numberis stamped onto the
right-hand side of the cylinder block, next to
the distributor (see illustration).
The automatic transmission numberis
stamped onto a metal label attached to the
left-hand side of the transmission housing,
just above the sump (see illustration).The VIN is stamped on the right inner wing
panel of the engine compartment
The engine identification number is
stamped on the right side of the engine
block just behind the distributorThe transmission identification number is
located on the left side of the transmission
housing just above the sump
The VIN is also present on the left side of
the dashboard

3261 Jaguar XJ6
MOT test checksREF•9
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND

3261 Jaguar XJ6
Fault findingREF•13
1 Engine
Engine will not rotate when attempting to start
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mBattery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1).
m mDamaged left rear window harness shorting against glass rail
inside door, causing battery to drain (Chapter 12).
m mAutomatic transmission not completely engaged in Park
(Chapter 7).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapters 5 and 12).
m mStarter motor pinion jammed in flywheel ring gear (Chapter 5).
m mStarter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor faulty (Chapter 5).
m mIgnition switch faulty (Chapter 12).
m mStarter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).
m mInternal engine problem (Chapter 2B).
m mInertia switch activated (Chapter 12).
m mStarter relay defective (Chapter 5).
Engine rotates but will not start
m
mFuel tank empty.
m mBattery discharged (engine rotates slowly) (Chapter 5).
m mBattery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).
m mLeaking fuel injector(s), faulty fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc.
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel not reaching fuel injection system (Chapter 4).
m mIgnition components damp or damaged (Chapter 5).
m mFuel injector stuck open (Chapter 4).
m mWorn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wiring in the starting circuit
(Chapter 5).
m mLoose distributor is changing ignition timing (Chapter 1).
m mBroken, loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty
coil (Chapter 5).
m m1988 and 1989 models may have electrical connector damage
between the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump (Chapter 12).
m mCoolant temperature sensor shorting on bonnet liner (Chapter 11).
m mDefective Mass Airflow (MAF) sensor (Chapter 6).
Engine hard to start when cold
m
mBattery discharged or low (Chapter 1).
m mFuel system malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mInjector(s) leaking (Chapter 4).
m mDistributor rotor carbon tracked (Chapter 5).
m mWater enters the air cleaner housing near the left front wheel arch
(Chapter 4).
Engine hard to start when hot
m mAir filter clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel not reaching the fuel injection system (Chapter 4).
m mCorroded battery connections, especially ground (Chapter 1).
m mFuel vaporises at fuel pump inlet. Refit dual fuel pumps
(Chapter 4).
m mFuel vapours from charcoal canister enter intake during idle and
cause idling, stalling and starting problems (Chapter 6).
Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in
engagement
m mPinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5).
m mStarter motor mounting bolts loose or missing (Chapter 5).
Engine starts but stops immediately
m
mLoose or faulty electrical connections at distributor, coil or
alternator (Chapter 5).
m mInsufficient fuel reaching the fuel injector(s) (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mDamaged fuel injection system speed sensors (Chapter 5).
m mFaulty fuel injection relays (Chapter 5).
m mLeaking threaded adapter on the EGR valve - where fitted
(Chapter 6)
Oil puddle under engine
m mSump gasket and/or sump drain bolt seal leaking (Chapter 2).
m mOil pressure sending unit leaking (Chapter 2).
m mValve cover gaskets leaking (Chapter 2).
m mEngine oil seals leaking (Chapter 2).
m mCylinder head rear plate gasket leaking (Chapter 2).
m mAlternator mounting bolt threads leaking oil (Chapter 5).
m mOil cooler or oil cooler lines leaking (Chapter 3).
Engine misses while idling or idles erratically
m
mVacuum leakage (Chapter 2).
m mAir filter clogged (Chapter 1).
m mFuel pump not delivering sufficient fuel to the fuel injection system
(Chapter 4).
m mLeaking head gasket (Chapter 2).
m mTiming belt/chain and/or sprockets worn (Chapter 2).
m mCamshaft lobes worn (Chapter 2).
m mEGR valve stuck open - where fitted (Chapter 6).
Engine misses at idle speed
m
mSpark plugs worn or not gapped properly (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty spark plug leads (Chapter 1).
m mVacuum leaks (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mUneven or low compression (Chapter 2).
m mRestricted EGR vacuum hose - where fitted (Chapter 6).
Engine misses throughout driving speed range
m
mFuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1).
m mLow fuel output at the injectors (Chapter 4).
m mFaulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mCracked distributor cap, disconnected distributor wires or
damaged distributor components (Chapter 1).
m mLeaking spark plug leads (Chapter 1).
m mFaulty emission system components (Chapter 6).
m mLow or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).
m mWeak or faulty ignition system (Chapter 5).
m mVacuum leak in fuel injection system, intake manifold or vacuum
hoses (Chapter 4).
m mCrankshaft sensor teeth damaged or missing (see Chapter 12).
m mDistributor installed incorrectly (see Chapter 5)
Engine stumbles on acceleration
m
mSpark plugs fouled (Chapter 1).
m mFuel injection system malfunctioning (Chapter 4).
m mFuel filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 4).
m mIncorrect ignition timing (Chapter 5).
m mIntake manifold air leak (Chapter 4).
m mCollapsed or damaged fuel tank caused by blocked EVAP system
- where fitted (see Chapter 6).

3261 Jaguar XJ6
REF•22Index
AABS fault finding -9•2
Accelerator cable -4•8
Acknowledgements -0•4
Aerial - 12•8
Air cleaner -1•14, 4•7
Air conditioning -3•2, 3•7, 3•10, 3•11, 3•13, 3•14
Air induction system -4•9
Air Injector Reactor (AIR) system -6•8
Air intake plenum -4•13
Airbag - 0•5, 12•14
Alternator -5•6
Amplifier -5•3
Anti-lock Brake system (ABS) -9•2
Anti-roll bar - 10•3
Anti-theft system - REF•1
Antifreeze -0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•20, 3•2
Asbestos -0•5
ATF -0•16
Automatic transmission-7•1et seq
fault finding - 7•1, REF•15
fluid - 0•16, 1•2, 1•11, 1•19
filter - 1•19
Auxiliary shaft -2A•8
BBalljoints - 10•4
Battery -0•5, 0•15, 1•9, 5•1, 5•1
Big-end bearings -2B•13, 2B•17
Bleeding
brake system - 9•10
power steering - 10•11
Block -2B•10, 2B•11
Blower motors -3•7
Body corrosion - REF•11
Body electrical system- 12•1et seq
Bodywork and fittings- 11•1et seq
Bonnet - 11•3, 11•4
Boot - 11•7
lid - 11•3, 11•6, 11•7,
Boots (steering) - 10•9
Brake fluid -0•12, 0•16, 1•20
Brake lights - 12•12
switch - 9•13
Brake servo -1•12
Braking system-1•12, 9•1et seq
fault finding - REF•15, REF•16
MOT checks - REF•8 to REF•10
Bulbs -0•15, 12•11
Bumpers - 11•5
Burning -0•5
CCables -4•8, 5•2, 7•2, 7•4, 9•10, 9•11, 11•4, 11•10
Calipers -9•3
Camshafts -2A•9
Capacities -1•2
Carpets - 11•1
Cassette - REF•1
Catalytic converter -6•12
Central locking - 12•13
Centre console - 11•11
Charcoal canister -6•11
Charging -1•10
Charging system -5•5
Circuit breakers - 12•3
CO emissions (mixture) - REF•11
Coil (HT) -5•3
Coil spring - 10•5, 10•6
Compression check -2B•3
Compressor -3•13
Condenser -3•13
Connecting rods -2B•9, 2B•12, 2B•17, 2B•18
Console - 11•11, 11•12
Continuity check - 12•2
Control arms - 10•5, 10•6, 10•8
Conversion factors - REF•2
Coolant -0•11, 0•16, 1•2, 1•20, 3•2
Coolant reservoir -3•4, 3•5
Coolant temperature sensor -6•3
Cooling fans -3•3
Cooling system fault finding - REF•14
Cooling,heating and air conditioning systems-3•1et seq
Courtesy lights - 12•12
Cowl cover - 11•14
Crankcase ventilation system -1•16, 6•11
Crankshaft -2A•5, 2A•17, 2B•10, 2B•13, 2B•16
position sensor - 6•7
Cruise control - 12•13
Crushing -0•5
Cylinder head -2A•13, 2B•6, 2B•7, 2B•8
Cylinder honing -2B•12
DDashboard - 11•13
Dents - 11•2
Differential -8•1, 8•5
oil - 1•2, 1•11, 1•20
Dimensions - REF•1
Direction indicators - 12•4, 12•11, 12•12
Discs -9•4
Distributor -5•4
Doors - 11•7, 11•8, 11•9, 11•10, 11•10, REF•9
Drivebelt -1•16
Driveplate -2A•16
Driveshafts -8•1, 8•4, 8•5, REF•10
Drivetrain-1•14, 8•1et seq
Note:References throughout this index are in the form - “Chapter number” • “page number”