1997 JAGUAR XJ6 door lock

again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol,
petrol, nail polish remover or thinner to clean
leather upholstery.
3After cleaning, regularly treat leather
upholstery with a leather wax. Never use car
wax on leather upholstery.
4In areas where the interior of the vehicle is
subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seats
with a sheet if the vehicle is to be left out for
any length of time.
5 Body repair- minor damage
3
Repair of minor scratches
1If the scratch is superficial and does not
penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is
very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area
with a fine rubbing compound to remove
loose paint and built-up wax. Rinse the area
with clean water.
2Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a
small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of
paint until the surface of the paint in the
scratch is level with the surrounding paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then blend it into the surrounding
paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing
compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the
scratch area.
3If the scratch has penetrated the paint and
exposed the metal of the body, causing the
metal to rust, a different repair technique is
required. Remove all loose rust from the
bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife,
then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the
formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber
or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area
with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can
be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin
paste, which is ideal for filling narrow
scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch
hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth
around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in
thinner and then quickly wipe it along the
surface of the scratch. This will ensure that
the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The
scratch can now be painted over as described
earlier in this section.
Repair of dents
4When repairing dents, the first job is to pull
the dent out until the affected area is as close
as possible to its original shape. There is no
point in trying to restore the original shape
completely as the metal in the damaged area
will have stretched on impact and cannot be
restored to its original contours. It is better to
bring the level of the dent up to a point which
is about 1/8-inch below the level of the
surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is
very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out
at all.
5If the back side of the dent is accessible, it
can be hammered out gently from behindusing a soft-face hammer. While doing this,
hold a block of wood firmly against the
opposite side of the metal to absorb the
hammer blows and prevent the metal from
being stretched.
6If the dent is in a section of the body which
has double layers, or some other factor makes
it inaccessible from behind, a different
technique is required. Drill several small holes
through the metal inside the damaged area,
particularly in the deeper sections. Screw
long, self-tapping screws into the holes just
enough for them to get a good grip in the
metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by
pulling on the protruding heads of the screws
with locking pliers.
7The next stage of repair is the removal of
paint from the damaged area and from an
inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is
done with a wire brush or sanding disc in a
drill motor, although it can be done just as
effectively by hand with sandpaper. To
complete the preparation for filling, score the
surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or
the tang of a file, or drill small holes in the
affected area. This will provide a good grip
for the filler material. To complete the repair,
see the subsection on filling and painting later
in this Section.
Repair of rust holes or gashes
8Remove all paint from the affected area and
from an inch or so of the surrounding metal
using a sanding disc or wire brush mounted in
a drill motor. If these are not available, a few
sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as
effectively.
9With the paint removed, you will be able to
determine the severity of the corrosion and
decide whether to replace the whole panel, if
possible, or repair the affected area. New
body panels are not as expensive as most
people think and it is often quicker to refit a
new panel than to repair large areas of rust.
10Remove all trim pieces from the affected
area except those which will act as a guide to
the original shape of the damaged body, such
as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a
hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and
any other metal that is badly affected by rust.
Hammer the edges of the hole in to create a
slight depression for the filler material.
11Wire brush the affected area to remove
the powdery rust from the surface of the
metal. If the back of the rusted area is
accessible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint.
12Before filling is done, block the hole in
some way. This can be done with sheet metal
riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing
the hole with wire mesh.
13Once the hole is blocked off, the affected
area can be filled and painted. See the
following subsection on filling and painting.
Filling and painting
14Many types of body fillers are available,
but generally speaking, body repair kits which
contain filler paste and a tube of resinhardener are best for this type of repair work.
A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will
be necessary for imparting a smooth and
contoured finish to the surface of the filler
material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a
clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the
hardener sparingly). Follow the
manufacturer’s instructions on the package,
otherwise the filler will set incorrectly.
15Using the applicator, apply the filler paste
to the prepared area. Draw the applicator
across the surface of the filler to achieve the
desired contour and to level the filler surface.
As soon as a contour that approximates the
original one is achieved, stop working the
paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to
stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin
layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the
level of the filler is just above the surrounding
metal.
16Once the filler has hardened, the excess
can be removed with a body file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper
should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper
and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.
Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat
rubber or wooden block, otherwise the
surface of the filler will not be completely flat.
During the sanding of the filler surface, the
wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed
in water. This will ensure that a very smooth
finish is produced in the final stage.
17At this point, the repair area should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair
area with clean water until all of the dust
produced by the sanding operation is gone.
18Spray the entire area with a light coat of
primer. This will reveal any imperfections in
the surface of the filler. Repair the
imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze
filler and once more smooth the surface with
sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair
procedure until you are satisfied that the
surface of the filler and the feathered edge of
the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with
clean water and allow it to dry completely.
19The repair area is now ready for painting.
Spray painting must be carried out in a warm,
dry, windless and dust free atmosphere.
These conditions can be created if you have
access to a large indoor work area, but if you
are forced to work in the open, you will have
to pick the day very carefully. If you are
working indoors, dousing the floor in the work
area with water will help settle the dust which
would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area
is confined to one body panel, mask off the
surrounding panels. This will help minimise
the effects of a slight mismatch in paint
colour. Trim pieces such as chrome strips,
door handles, etc., will also need to be
masked off or removed. Use masking tape
and several thickness of newspaper for the
masking operations.
20Before spraying, shake the paint can
thoroughly, then spray a test area until the
11•2 Bodywork and fittings
3261 Jaguar XJ6

spray painting technique is mastered. Cover
the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The
thickness should be built up using several thin
layers of primer rather than one thick one.
Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub
down the surface of the primer until it is very
smooth. While doing this, the work area
should be thoroughly rinsed with water and
the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed
as well. Allow the primer to dry before
spraying additional coats.
21Spray on the top coat, again building up
the thickness by using several thin layers of
paint. Begin spraying at the top of the repair
area and then, using a side-to-side motion,
work down until the whole repair area and
about two inches of the surrounding original
paint is covered. Remove all masking material
10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final
coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two
weeks to harden, then use a very fine rubbing
compound to blend the edges of the new
paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a
coat of wax.
6 Body repair- major damage
5
1Major damage must be repaired by an auto
body workshop specifically equipped to
perform unibody repairs. These workshops
have the specialised equipment required to
do the job properly.
2If the damage is extensive, the body must
be checked for proper alignment or the
vehicle’s handling characteristics may be
adversely affected and other components
may wear at an accelerated rate.
3Due to the fact that most of the major body
components (bonnet, front wings, etc.) are
separate and replaceable units, any seriously
damaged components should be replaced
rather than repaired. Sometimes thecomponents can be found in a scrapyard that
specialises in used vehicle components, often
at considerable savings over the cost of new
parts.
7 Hinges and locks-
maintenance
1
Once every 3000 miles, or every three
months, the hinges and latch assemblies on
the doors, bonnet and boot should be given a
few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The
door latch strikers should also be lubricated
with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and
ensure free movement. Lubricate the door
and boot locks with spray-on graphite
lubricant.
8 Windscreen and fixed glass-
replacement
5
Replacement of the windscreen and fixed
glass requires the use of special fast-setting
adhesive/caulk materials and some
specialised tools. It is recommended that
these operations be left to a dealer or a
workshop specialising in glass work.
9 Bonnet and boot lid support
struts- removal and refitting
1
1Open the bonnet or boot lid and support it
securely.
2Using a small screwdriver, detach the
retaining clips at both ends of the support
strut. Then pry or pull sharply to detach it from
the vehicle(see illustrations).
3Refitting is the reverse of removal.
10 Bonnet- removal,
refitting and adjustment
2
Note:The bonnet is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Use blankets or pads to cover the wings
and the area in front of the bonnet. This will
protect the body and paint as the bonnet is
lifted off.
2Make marks or scribe a line around the
bonnet hinge to ensure proper alignment
during refitting.
3Disconnect any cables or wires that will
interfere with removal.
4Have an assistant support the bonnet.
Remove the hinge-to-bonnet screws or bolts
(see illustration).
5Lift off the bonnet.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Adjustment
7Before the bonnet can be adjusted
properly, both bonnet striker assemblies
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
1110.4 With the help of an assistant to hold
the bonnet, remove the retaining bolts
(arrowed) from each hinge plate, then lift
off the bonnet
3261 Jaguar XJ69.2b The boot lid support strut requires prising out a locking pin
to detach it from the locating stud
9.2a Use a small screwdriver to prise the clip out of its locking
groove, then detach the end of the strut from the mounting stud

8Loosen the bolts or nuts and move the boot
lid into correct alignment. Move it only a little
at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts or nuts and
carefully lower the boot lid to check the
alignment.
9If necessary after refitting, the entire boot
lid striker assembly can be adjusted up and
down as well as from side to side on the boot
lid so the lid closes securely and is flush with
the rear quarter panels. To do this, scribe a
line around the boot lid striker assembly to
provide a reference point. Then loosen the
bolts and reposition the striker as necessary
(see illustration). Following adjustment,
retighten the mounting bolts.
10Adjust the bump stops on the boot lid so
the boot lid is flush with the rear wings when
closed (see illustration).
11The boot lid latch assembly, as well as the
hinges, should be periodically lubricated with
white lithium-base grease to prevent sticking
and wear.
17 Boot lid latch and lock
cylinder- removal and
refitting
1
Boot lid latch
1Open the boot and scribe a line around the
boot lid latch assembly for a reference point
to help aid the refitting procedure.2The boot lid latch is retained by three
Phillips-head screws (see illustration). For
adjustment procedures, see Section 16.
3Disengage the lock rod from the latch.
4Disconnect all electrical connectors and
remove the latch.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Boot lock cylinder
6Remove the plastic clips securing the boot
light finish panel (see illustration).
7Looking upward through the boot lid
access hole, remove the lock rod and lock
cylinder retaining bolts (see illustration).
8Disconnect all electrical connections and
remove the lock cylinder assembly.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal.
18 Door trim panel-
removal and refitting
2
1Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery
2On front door trim panels, remove the
retaining screw located under the air duct
door seal (see illustration).
3Remove the inside handle trim bezel (see
illustrations).
Bodywork and fittings 11•7
11
17.6 Detach the clips securing the boot
lamp finish panel17.7 Disengage the lock rod (A), then
remove the lock cylinder retaining bolts (B)
18.2 Lift the air duct-to-body seal to
access the trim panel retaining screw
(arrowed)18.3b . . . then detach the inside handle
retaining screw and bezel18.3a Remove the trim cover . . .
3261 Jaguar XJ6 16.9 Loosen the bolts and move the
striker assembly as necessary to adjust
the boot lid flush with the quarter panels
in the closed position
17.2 Remove the retaining screws
(arrowed), then unclip the lock rod and
disconnect any electrical connections16.10 Turn the bump stops in or out so the
boot lid is flush with the rear wings when
in the closed position

4Detach the wood finishing panel (see
illustration).
5Unscrew the inside lock knob, then remove
the remaining screws securing the upper half
of the door trim panel and detach it from the
vehicle (see illustration).
6Detach the screw from the top edge of the
lower door trim panel (see illustration).
7Pry out the courtesy lamp lens, then detach
the retaining screw from inside the lamp
housing (see illustrations).
8Remove the armrest trim cover, then
detach the retaining screws from behind the
cover (see illustrations).
9Insert a wide putty knife, a screwdriver or a
special trim panel removal tool between thetrim panel and the head of the retaining clips
to disengage the retaining clips along the outer
edges of the door panel (see illustration). Pry
only at the clip locations or the panel could be
damaged.
10Once all of the clips are disengaged,
detach the trim panel, unplug any electrical
connectors and remove the trim panel from
the door by gently pulling it up and out.
11For access to the inner door, peel back
the watershield, taking care not to tear it. To
refit the trim panel, first press the watershield
back into place. If necessary, add more
sealant to hold it in place.
12Refitting is the reverse of removal.19 Door- removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Note:The door is heavy and somewhat
awkward to remove and refit - at least two
people should perform this procedure.
Removal and refitting
1Raise the window completely in the door,
then disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
11•8 Bodywork and fittings
18.6 Detach the screws along the top
edge of the lower trim panel18.7a Prise out the courtesy lamp lens18.7b Remove the retaining screw from
inside the lamp housing
18.8a Push up on the bottom to detach the
armrest/pull handle trim cover18.8b Remove the screws behind the
armrest/pull handle trim cover18.9 Disengage the retaining clips along
the outer edge of the door trim panel
3261 Jaguar XJ6 18.4 Gently prise out the clips securing the wood finish panel
18.5 Detach the screws located behind the wood finisher panel,
then remove the upper portion of the door trim panel

2Open the door all the way and support it on
jacks or blocks covered with rags to prevent
damaging the paint.
3Remove the door trim panel and water
deflector as described in Section 18.
4Unplug all electrical connections, ground
wires and harness retaining clips from the
door. Note:It is a good idea to label all
connections to aid the reassembly process.
5From the door side, detach the rubber
conduit between the body and the door, then
carefully pull the wiring harness through the
conduit hole and remove it from the door.
6Mark around the door hinges with a pen or
a scribe to ease alignment during reassembly.
7On front doors, work through the door
access hole to remove the hinge-to-door
nuts. On rear doors the hinge-to-body bolts
are more accessible and can be removed by
simply opening the front door and removing
the bolts (see illustrations).
8Have an assistant hold the door, remove
the bolts or nuts and lift the door off.
9Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Adjustment
10Having proper door to body alignment is a
critical part of a well functioning doorassembly. First check the door hinge pins for
excessive play. Note: If the door can be lifted
(1/16-inch or more) without the car body
moving, the hinges should be replaced.
11Door-to-body alignment adjustments are
made by loosening the hinge-to-body or hinge-
to-door bolts and moving the door. Proper
body alignment is achieved when the top of
doors are parallel with the roof section, the
front door is flush with the wing, the rear door is
flush with the rear quarter panel and the
bottom of the doors are aligned with the lower
rocker panel. If these goals can’t be reached by
adjusting the hinge-to-body or hinge-to-door
bolts, body alignment shims may have to be
purchased and inserted behind the hinges to
achieve correct alignment.
12To adjust the door closed position, scribe
a line or mark around the striker plate to
provide a reference point. Check that the door
latch is contacting the centre of the latch
striker. If not, adjust the up-and-down
position first.
13Finally, adjust the latch striker position, so
the door skin is flush with the rear door (front)
or rear quarter panel (rear) and provides
positive engagement with the latch
mechanism (see illustration).
20 Door latch, lock cylinder and
handles- removal and refitting
2
Door latch
1Raise the window, then remove the door
trim panel and watershield as described in
Section 18.
2Working through the large access hole,
disengage the outside door handle-to-latch
rod and the inside handle-to-latch cable (see
illustration).
3All door locking rods are attached by plastic
clips. The plastic clips can be removed by
unsnapping the portion engaging the
connecting rod and then by pulling the rod out
of its locating hole.
4Remove the screws securing the latch to
the door (see illustration), then remove the
latch assembly from the door.
5Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Outside handle
and door lock cylinder
6To remove the outside handle and lock
cylinder assembly, raise the window then
Bodywork and fittings 11•9
11
19.13 Adjust the door lock striker by
loosening the hex nut and gently tapping
the striker in the desired direction20.2 Detach the outside handle-to-latch
rod (A), then remove the inside handle-to-
latch cable (B)20.4 Remove the latch screws (arrowed)
from the end of the door, and pull the latch
assembly through the access hole.
3261 Jaguar XJ6 19.7a Work through the door access hole (arrowed) to remove
the hinge-to-door retaining nuts from inside the door
19.7b Open the front door to access the rear door hinge-to-body
bolts (arrowed)

remove the door trim panel and watershield
as described in Section 18.
7Working through the access hole, detach
the outside handle retaining nuts (see
illustration),then pull the handle away from
the door.
8Disengage the plastic clip that secures the
outside handle-to-latch rod (see illustration).
9Remove the handle and lock cylinder
assembly from the vehicle.
10Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Inside handle and cable
11Remove the door trim panel as described
in Section 18 and peel away the watershield.
12Detach the inside handle-to-latch cable
(see illustration 20.2).
13Remove the inside handle retaining bolts
(see illustration).
14Pull the handle and cable assembly free
and remove them from the door.15Refitting is the reverse of removal.
21 Door window glass
regulator-
removal and refitting
3
1To remove the window regulator assembly,
raise the window to its full upright position,
then remove the door trim panel and
watershield as described in Section 18.
2Tape the window to the door glass frame to
secure the window in the full upright position.
3Remove the regulator and motor mounting
bolts (see illustration).
4Disconnect the electrical connector from
the window regulator motor.
5Slide the equaliser arms out of the window
glass channel and remove the regulator and
motor assembly through the service hole in
the door frame.Warning: The regulator arms are
under pressure and can cause
serious injury if the motor is
removed without locking the
sector gear. The motor and regulator can
now safely be separated.
6Refitting is the reverse of removal.
11•10 Bodywork and fittings
3261 Jaguar XJ6 20.7 The outside handle retaining nuts (arrowed) can be reached
through the access hole in the door
20.8 Detach the plastic clip securing the lock rod
20.13 After removing the cable from the latch assembly, detach
the handle retaining bolts, then pull the handle and cable
assembly free from the vehicle21.3 Detach the window regulator bolts (arrowed)
If the motor or regulator
needs replacing, it will be
necessary to lock the sector
gear to the regulator back-
plate. This can be done by fastening the
sector gear to the backplate with a bolt
inserted through one of the holes in the
backplate and sector gear and secured
with a nut. If none of the holes line up,
drill a hole through the backplate and
sector gear.

Rear direction indicator,
brake, tail and reversing lights
4Open the boot and remove the plastic
knobs securing the tail light housing trim
cover (see illustration).
5Remove two more plastic knobs and
detach the tail light bulb cluster from the rear
tail light housing. The defective bulb can then
be pulled out of the socket and replaced (see
illustration).
Number plate light
6Remove the lens retaining screws (see
illustration).
7Detach the lens and renew the defective
bulb.
High-mounted brake light
8The brake light cover is retained by screws.
Remove the cover and renew the bulb.
Interior lights
9Remove the overhead console (Chapter 11).
Detach the bulb from the retaining clips and
renew the bulb (see illustration).
Instrument cluster illumination
10To gain access to the instrument cluster
illumination lights, the instrument cluster
housing will have to be removed (Chapter 11).
The bulbs can then be removed and replaced
from the rear of the cluster (see illustration).
22 Inertia switch-
description and check
1
1The inertia switch is a safety mechanism
which governs various electrical circuits such
as the central locking, electric window and
ignition circuits. In the event of a crash, the
inertia switch will automatically unlock the
doors, shut off power to all ignition circuits,
and lock the boot lid and the fuel filler cap.
2To test the inertia switch, turn the ignition
key to the ON position, then lock the driver
and passenger side doors and unlock the
boot lid. Then simply pull upward on the
trip/reset button located on top of the inertiaswitch. All ignition circuits should shut off, the
doors should unlock and the boot lid should
lock. To reset the inertia switch, simply push
downward on the trip/reset button (see
illustration).
12•12 Body electrical system
21.6 Detach the lens retaining screws
(arrowed) and the lens to access the
number plate light bulbs21.9 The interior light bulbs can be
accessed after lowering the overhead
console21.10 To remove an instrument cluster
bulb, depress the bulbholder and rotate it
anti-clockwise
3261 Jaguar XJ6 21.4 The Rear direction indicator, brake, tail and reversing light
bulbs are accessible from the boot compartment after removing
the plastic knobs (arrowed) securing the bulb housing covers
21.5 Remove the bulb cluster from the tail light housing - The
bulb is removed by pushing in and turning the bulb anti-clockwise
22.2 The inertia switch is located behind
the passengers side kick panel - pull
upward on the button to trip the switch -
push downward on the button
to reset the switch

23 Cruise control system-
description and check
5
1The cruise control system maintains vehicle
speed with an independently operated vacuum
motor located on the passenger’s side inner
wing in the engine compartment. When the
cruise control switch is turned on, a vacuum
actuator (connected the throttle linkage) is
activated by vacuum from the vacuum motor.
The system consists of the vacuum motor,
vacuum actuator, brake switch, control
switches, a relay and associated vacuum
hoses. Some features of the system require
special testers and diagnostic procedures
which are beyond the scope of this manual.
Listed below are some general procedures that
may be used to locate common problems.
2Locate and check the fuse (see Section 3).
3Have an assistant operate the brake lights
while you check their operation (voltage from
the brake light switch deactivates the cruise
control).
4If the brake lights don’t come on or don’t
shut off, correct the problem and re-test the
cruise control.
5Visually inspect the vacuum hose
connected to the vacuum motor and vacuum
actuator. Check the freeplay between the
vacuum actuator stop and the throttle link slot
(see illustration).
6Test drive the vehicle to determine if the
cruise control is now working. If it isn’t, take it
to a dealer service department or an
automotive electrical specialist for further
diagnosis and repair.
24 Electric window system-
description and check
2
1The electric window system operates
electric motors, mounted in the doors, which
lower and raise the windows. The system
consists of the control switches, relays, the
motors, regulators, glass mechanisms and
associated wiring.
2The electric windows can be lowered and
raised from the master control switch by the
driver or by remote switches located at the
individual windows. Each window has a
separate motor which is reversible. The
position of the control switch determines the
polarity and therefore the direction of
operation.
3The circuit is protected by a fuse. Each
motor is also equipped with an internal circuit
breaker, this prevents one stuck window from
disabling the whole system.
4The electric window system will only
operate when the ignition switch is ON. In
addition, many models have a window lockout
switch at the master control switch which,
when activated, disables the switches at the
rear windows and, sometimes, the switch at
the passenger’s window also. Always check
these items before diagnosing a window
problem.
5These procedures are general in nature, so
if you can’t find the problem using them, take
the vehicle to a dealer service department or
other properly equipped repair facility.
6If the electric windows won’t operate,
always check the fuse first.
7If only the rear windows are inoperative, or
if the windows only operate from the master
control switch, check the rear window lockout
switch for continuity in the unlocked position.
Renew it if it doesn’t have continuity.
8Check the wiring between the switches andfuse panel for continuity. Repair the wiring, if
necessary.
9If only one window is inoperative from the
master control switch, try the other control
switch at the window. Note:This doesn’t
apply to the driver’s door window.
10If the same window works from one
switch, but not the other, check the switch for
continuity.
11If the switch tests OK, check for a short or
open in the circuit between the affected
switch and the window motor.
12If one window is inoperative from both
switches, remove the trim panel from the
affected door and check for voltage at the
switch and at the motor while the switch is
operated (see illustration).
13If voltage is reaching the motor,
disconnect the glass from the regulator (see
Chapter 11). Move the window up and down
by hand while checking for binding and
damage. Also check for binding and damage
to the regulator. If the regulator is not
damaged and the window moves up and
down smoothly, renew the motor. If there’s
binding or damage, lubricate, repair or renew
parts, as necessary.
14If voltage isn’t reaching the motor, check
the wiring in the circuit for continuity between
the switches and motors. You’ll need to
consult the wiring diagram for the vehicle.
If the circuit is equipped with a relay, check
that the relay is earthed properly and receiving
voltage.
15Test the windows after you are done to
confirm proper repairs.
25 Central locking system-
description and check
5
The central locking system operates the
door lock actuators mounted in each door.
The system consists of the switches, relays,
Body electrical system 12•13
12
3261 Jaguar XJ6 23.5 Check the cruise control throttle linkage for binding
24.12 If no voltage is present at the motor with the switch
depressed, check for voltage at the switch