1997 JAGUAR XJ6 Engine

13Refitting is the reverse of removal. Tighten
the fan clutch-to-fan blade bolts and the fan
assembly-to-drive hub nut to the torque listed
in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Electric fans
Check
Warning: Keep your hands or
clothing away from the fan
blades at all times.
14On 1988 through 1992 models, a single
electric fan is mounted in front of the radiator,
controlled by a thermostatic switch. Access to
the fan is with the grille removed. The 1993
and 1994 models have a fan shroud assembly
that includes two electric fans, and a “twin”
thermostatic switch, with the assembly
mounted on the engine side of the radiator.
15If the electric fan does not come on at any
time, bypass the thermostatic switch by
disconnecting the electrical connector at the
switch and connecting the two pins with a
jumper wire (see illustration). If the fan now
operates, renew the thermostatic switch. If the
fan doesn’t operate, the problem is either the
fan relay or the fan motor. On 1993 and 1994
models with twin electric fans, jumpering one
set of connections in the plug from the switch
should make both fans operate at slow speed
(fans in series) and jumpering the other two
should run both fans at higher speed (fans in
parallel). In normal operation, the fans operate
at the higher-speed only when the air
conditioning is on, or when coolant
temperature exceeds 212° F. When the
coolant cools down to below 200° F, the fans
revert to the normal speed.
16To renew a defective thermostatic switch,
allow the vehicle to cool off and drain the
coolant (see Chapter 1). Remove the switch
from the radiator and refit the new switch.
Connect the electrical connector and test
again for proper fan operation.17To test an inoperative fan motor (one that
doesn’t come on when the engine gets hot or
when the air conditioner is on), first check the
fuses and/or fusible links (see Chapter 12).
Then disconnect the electrical connector at
the motor (refer to Chapter 11 for removal of
the grille for access on front-mounted-fan
models) and use fused jumper wires to
connect the fan directly to the battery and to
chassis ground (see illustration). If the fan
still does not work, renew the fan motor.
Warning: Do not allow the test
clips to contact each other or
any metallic part of the vehicle.
18If the motor tested OK in the previous test
but is still inoperative, then the fault lies in the
relay, fuse, or wiring. The fan relay can be
tested for continuity (see Chapter 12).
Renewal
19Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.20Access the 1988 through 1992 single
electric fan with the grille removed (see
Chapter 11 for grille removal). Disconnect the
electrical connector and remove the bolts
holding the fan assembly to the body (see
illustration).
21On 1993 and 1994 models, remove the
two bolts holding the fan shroud to the top of
the radiator and lift the shroud/fans assembly
from the vehicle.
22If the fan on 1988 to 1992 models must be
renewed, renew the fan, motor and shroud as
a unit. The fan is separate from the shroud on
later models.
23Refitting is the reverse of removal. If the
thermostatic switch was renewed, refill the
cooling system.5 Radiator, expansion tank
and coolant reservoir-
removal and refitting
3
Warning: Do not start this
procedure until the engine is
completely cool.
Radiator
Removal
1Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Drain the coolant into a container (see
Chapter 1).
3Remove both the upper and lower radiator
hoses, and the small expansion tank hose from
the top left of the radiator (see illustration).
4Remove the cooling fan and shroud (see
Section 4).
3•4 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
4.20 Disconnect the fan’s electrical
connector (large arrow) and remove the
bolts (small arrows) on single-fan models -
grille is removed here
3261 Jaguar XJ6 4.15 Disconnect the electrical connector (A) from the
thermostatic switch (B) in the radiator and bypass it with a
jumper wire (C) - the fan should operate now with the ignition on
4.17 Disconnect the fan wiring connector and connect jumper
wires from there directly to the positive and negative terminals of
the battery - the purple wire’s terminal should receive the battery
power and the black wire’s terminal should be earthed

5If equipped with an automatic transmission,
disconnect the cooler lines from the radiator
(see illustrations). Disconnect the cooling fan
switch connector (see illustration 4.15).
Place a drip pan to catch the fluid and cap the
fittings. Note:The transmission oil cooler lines
enter the radiator on the left, while the power
steering cooler lines attach on the right side of
the radiator. On 1993 and 1994 models, the
cooler fittings require a spring-lock coupling
tool, normally used on fuel lines or air
conditioning lines.
6Remove the four bolts from the radiator
cowl panel and take off the panel (see
illustration).
7Lift out the radiator. Be aware of dripping
fluids and the sharp fins. Take care not to
damage the radiator fins by contact with other
parts.
8With the radiator removed, it can be
inspected for leaks, damage and internal
blockage. If repairs are necessary, have a
radiator specialist or dealer service department
perform the work, as special techniques are
required. Check the rubber mounting pads on
the bottom of the radiator (see illustration). If
they’re cracked or damaged, get new ones
before refitting the radiator.
9Bugs and dirt can be cleaned from the
radiator with compressed air and a soft brush.
Don’t bend the cooling fins as this is done.
Warning: Wear eye protection.
Refitting
10Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Be sure the rubber mounts are in
place on the bottom of the radiator.
11After refitting, fill the cooling system with
the proper mixture of antifreeze and water.
Refer to Chapter 1 if necessary.
12Start the engine and check for leaks.
Allow the engine to reach normal operating
temperature, indicated by both radiator hoses
becoming hot. Recheck the coolant level and
add more if required.
13On automatic transmission equipped
models, check and add fluid as needed and
check the power steering fluid level as well.
Expansion tank and coolant
reservoir, removal and refitting
14The expansion tank is located at the top
of the left-hand side inner wing. With the
cooling system drained below the level of the
expansion tank, remove the hoses, the
coolant level probe and the two screws
mounting it to the body (see illustration).
15Wash out and inspect the reservoir for
cracks and chafing. Renew it if damaged.16If the low-coolant level light has been
showing on the instrument panel, even when
the coolant level is correct, disconnect the
sensor’s connector and test it with an
ohmmeter (see illustration). The sensor
should be renewed if the resistance at the
connections is over 150 ohms.
Caution: Using a long-necked funnel to
add coolant can damage the sensor, which
is just below the expansion tank filler neck.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•5
3
5.5a At the left side of the radiator,
disconnect the automatic transmission
cooler lines (small arrows) and the lower
radiator hose (larger arrow)5.5b Disconnect the power steering cooler
lines (small arrows) at the right side of the
radiator, and the upper radiator hose
(large arrow)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 5.3 Remove the clamp and the hose going
to the expansion tank
5.6 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and take
off the radiator cowl panel
5.14 The expansion tank is located on the
left inner wing
A Hose to recovery tank (where applicable)
B Hose to radiator
C Hose to thermostat housing
D Hose to water pump housing
E Mounting screws
F Low-coolant-level sensor
5.8 There are rubber mounts (arrowed)
for the radiator and the condenser -
they must be in place when these
components are reinstalled
5.16 The low-coolant-level sensor can be
tested with an ohmmeter - resistance
should be below 150 ohms - gently use a
pair of long-neck pliers to move the sensor
up and down in the tank to get a reading

17A coolant recovery bottle is used on 1988
and 1989 models, located in the passenger’s
inner wing. The plastic inner wing splash
shield must be removed for access to the
recovery bottle (see Chapter 11). Disconnect
the recovery hose and remove the mounting
screws to renew the recovery bottle (see
illustration). Models from 1990 on do not
have the recovery bottle, but do have a larger
expansion tank.
18Refitting of either expansion tank or
recovery bottle is the reverse of removal.
6 Engine oil cooler- renewal
2
1Models from 1988 through 1991 have a
engine oil cooler, mounted ahead of the
radiator. The engine’s mechanical fan draws
air through the oil cooler, cooling off hot
engine oil that is circulated from the engine by
steel tubes. Access to the cooler is with the
grille removed (refer to Chapter 11 for grille
removal).
2To renew the oil cooler, first disconnect thetwo fittings connecting the lines to the cooler
(see illustration).
Caution: The engine should be cool for this
procedure, and you should have a small
drain pan handy because the fittings are
on the bottom of the cooler and will
probably drip some oil on dismantling.
3Remove the mounting nuts to take the
cooler out of the vehicle (see illustration).
4The other ends of the oil cooler tubes
mount to a block just below the oil filter. With
a drain pan handy, remove the nut retaining
both pipes to the block.
5Refitting the oil cooler and oil lines is the
reverse of removal. When refitting the lines to
the block or the cooler, use new O-rings.7 Water pump- check
1
1A failure in the water pump can cause
serious engine damage due to overheating.
2With the engine running and warmed to
normal operating temperature, squeeze the
upper radiator hose. If the water pump is
working properly, a pressure surge should be
felt as the hose is released.
Warning: Keep hands away from
fan blades!
3Water pumps are equipped with weep or
vent holes (see illustration). If a failure occurs
in the pump seal, coolant will leak from this
hole. In most cases it will be necessary to use
a flashlight to find the hole on the water pump
by looking through the space behind the
pulley just below the water pump shaft.
4If the water pump shaft bearings fail there
may be a howling sound at the front of the
engine while it is running. Bearing wear can be
felt if the water pump pulley is rocked up anddown. Do not mistake drivebelt slippage,
which causes a squealing sound, for water
pump failure. Spray automotive drivebelt
dressing on the belts to eliminate the belt as a
possible cause of the noise.
8 Water pump and pipes-
renewal
3
Warning: Do not start this
procedure until the engine is
completely cool.
1Disconnect the negative battery cable and
drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Refer to Section 4 to remove the
mechanical fan and clutch (if applicable to
your model).
3Refer to Chapter 1 for removal of the
drivebelts.
3•6 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
6.3 Remove the mounting nuts (arrowed)
to take the oil cooler out
7.3 Check the weep hole (arrowed) for
signs of leakage (pump removed for
clarity) - grey discolouration is normal,
large brown stains indicates seal failure
3261 Jaguar XJ6 5.17 The recovery bottle (arrowed) on 1988 and 1989 models is
located in the footwell - disconnect the hoses and the two
mounting screws
6.2 Disconnect the two metal oil lines (arrowed) where they
mount to the bottom of the cooler - use two spanners

4Remove the water pump mounting bolts
(see illustration).
Note 1:The water pump is sold as a complete
assembly, including the rear housing with the
hose connections. Unless the rear housing is
corroded or cracked, many Jaguar mechanics
only refit the pump assembly itself, using the
original rear housing with all its hoses intact.
However, if the engine has a great deal of
years or mileage on it, it would be a good idea
to renew those hoses as well, in which case
the new rear housing can be installed.
Note 2:There are three different lengths of
water pump bolts. The longer bolts retain the
pump and rear housing to the engine(see
illustration 7.3).
5If the pump doesn’t come loose right away,
tap it with a soft-faced hammer to break the
gasket seal. Be careful not to hit the radiator
fins with the pump during removal.
6Thoroughly clean all sealing surfaces,
removing all traces of gasket or sealant from
the back of the pump and the face of the
housing.
7Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the sealing
surface on the back of the pump. Refit the
pump and bolts, tightening the bolts to the
torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
8Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal. Note:If the pump has been
renewed after many miles of usage, it’s a good
idea to also renew the hoses connected to the
water pump housing(see illustrations). Refer
to Chapter 2A for intake manifold removal to
access the coolant pipes and hoses. If you
have noticed water leaks or stains on the left
side of the engine, the leaks may be coming
from these pipes and hoses.
9Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1),
run the engine and check for leaks and proper
operation.
9 Coolant temperature
sender unit- check and
renewal
2
Warning: Do not start this
procedure until the engine is
completely cool.
Check
1If the coolant temperature gauge is
inoperative, check the fuses first (Chapter 12).
2If the temperature gauge indicates
excessive temperature after running awhile,
see the Fault finding section at the rear of the
manual.
3If the temperature gauge indicates Hot as
soon as the engine is started cold, disconnect
the wire at the coolant temperature sender
(see illustration). If the gauge reading drops,
renew the sender unit. If the reading remains
high, the wire to the gauge may be shorted to
ground, or the gauge is faulty.
4If the coolant temperature gauge fails to
show any indication after the engine has been
warmed up, (approx. 10 minutes) and the
fuses checked out OK, shut off the engine.
Disconnect the wire at the sender unit and,
using a jumper wire, connect the wire to a
clean ground on the engine. Briefly turn on the
ignition without starting the engine. If the
gauge now indicates Hot, renew the sender
unit.
5If the gauge fails to respond, the circuit may
be open or the gauge may be faulty - see
Chapter 12 for additional information.
Renewal
6Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1).
7Disconnect the electrical connector from
the sender unit.8Using a deep socket or a spanner, remove
the sender unit.
9Refit the new unit and tighten it securely.
Do not use thread sealant as it may
electrically insulate the sender unit.
10Reconnect the wiring connector, refill the
cooling system and check for coolant leakage
and proper gauge function.
10 Heating and air conditioning
blower motors- circuit check
and component renewal
3
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent accidental deployment
of the airbag, which could cause
personal injury or damage to the airbag
system, DO NOT work in the vicinity of the
steering wheel or instrument panel. Jaguar
recommends that, on airbag-equipped
models, the following procedure should be
left to a dealer service department or other
repair workshop because of the special
tools and techniques required to disable
the airbag system.
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2There are two blower motors, one under the
left side of the dash and one behind the glove
compartment (see illustration). If the blower
doesn’t work, check the fuse and all
connections in the circuit for looseness and
corrosion. Make sure the battery is fully
charged. To access the right blower, remove
the glove compartment liner, the glove
compartment door and the right lower dash
panel (see Chapter 11).
Warning: When working around
the area behind the glove box,
watch out for a strip of sheet
metal bracing that has a very
sharp edge (see illustration). Apply some
heavy duct tape to the edge of the brace
before beginning work in this area, or you
could injure your hands.
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•7
3
8.4 Remove the water pump mounting
bolts (arrows indicate five visible here)8.8a Once the water pump is removed, the
rear housing (arrowed) is held in place only
by the hoses - check them for leakage and
condition whenever the pump is disturbed8.8b The water pipe (arrowed) may need
new gaskets where it meets the block - the
pipe is best accessed from below or with
the intake manifold unbolted
9.3 The coolant temperature sender unit
(arrowed) is located in the top of the
thermostat housing - it is the sender unit
with the single wire
3261 Jaguar XJ6

metal bracing that has a very sharp edge
(see illustration 10.2b). Apply some heavy
duct tape to the edge of the brace before
beginning work in this area, or you could
injure your hands.
4On the passenger’s side, under the dash,
remove the screws holding the plastic cover
where the heater pipes enter the heater/air
conditioning housing (see illustration).
5With the cover off, there is access to
remove the four Allen bolts holding the two
pipes to the heater core (see illustration).
6Move to the right side and unbolt the
climate control computer and pull it down and
away from the heater/air conditioning housing
(see illustrations).
7Remove the four small screws and remove
the plastic plate over the heater core, right
behind where the climate control computer
had been (see illustration).
8Carefully slide the heater core out from the
right side of the heating/air conditioning
housing (see illustration). Note:Keep plenty
of towels or rags on the carpeting to catch any
coolant that may drip.
9Refitting is the reverse order of removal.
When refitting the heater core, make sure all
of the foam insulation strips are in place and
refit new O-rings where the heater pipes enter
the core (see illustration).
10Refill the cooling system, reconnect the
battery and run the engine. Check for leaks
and proper system operation.
12 Heater and air conditioning
control assembly- check,
removal and refitting
4
Warning: Later models are
equipped with airbags. To
prevent the accidental deploy-
ment of the airbag, which could
cause personal injury or damage to the
airbag system, DO NOT work in the vicinity
of the steering wheel or instrument panel.
The manufacturer recommends that, on
airbag-equipped models, the following
procedure should be left to a dealer service
department or other repair workshopbecause of the special tools and
techniques required to disable the airbag
system.
Removal and refitting
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Refer to Chapter 11 for removal of the
console heater control/radio assembly trim
bezel.
3Remove the mounting screws retaining the
heater/air conditioning control assembly to
the console (see illustrations). Pull the
assembly out, and disconnect the electrical
connectors.
3•10 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
11.4 Remove these screws (small arrows)
to remove the plastic plate over the heater
core pipes on the left side11.5 With the cover off, remove the Allen
bolts (arrows indicate three of the four) to
pull the coolant pipes out of the left side of
the heater core11.6a Remove three screws (one arrowed;
one at the top-back and one below) to take
out the climate-control computer on right
side of heater/air conditioning assembly
11.6b Pull away the climate control
computer (arrowed)11.7 Remove the four screws (arrowed)
and the heater core cover plate11.8 Pull the heater core out to the right
3261 Jaguar XJ6
11.9 Retain the original foam insulation on
the heater core or transfer to the new
core, and replace the two O-rings
(arrowed)
12.3a Remove these six screws (arrowed)
to release the control panel/radio
assembly from the console

4Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
5Run the engine and check for proper
functioning of the heater (and air conditioning,
if equipped).
Control checks
6The climate-control system uses an all-
electronic control panel that sends digital
information to the climate control computer.
There is little the home mechanic can do to
troubleshoot or test the system. The factory
recommends that diagnosis be performed at a
dealership.
7If there is a problem in just one area of
climate control, put the controls through their
entire range of operation and check the
system responses, i.e. set the controls to
COLD, the fan to low and the temperature to
65° F. In this mode the Manual LED should be
lit and the air conditioning compressor should
engage. Try all of the fan speeds and try the
temperature on HOT, then feel for warm air
coming from the ducts. Note:Between each
try of the different controls, wait 20 seconds or
so for the heater/air conditioning system to
adjust before checking for a response.
8When each control button is pushed two
times, its LED light should go on or off. Renew
the control assembly if any of the warning
lights don’t work.
9On 1988 and 1989 models, if the climate
controls do not respond to any driver input,
check with your Jaguar dealer before
renewing the ECU or control panel. A service
part is available (a resistor, #JLM 1901) that
can be installed at one of the control panel
terminals that may fix the problem without any
other parts being renewed. Instructions are
included with the part.
10Check the vacuum lines to the several
vacuum motors that operate the heater/air
conditioning functions. Look for pinched or
blocked hoses and leaks.11Each of the vacuum “servo motors” in the
system can be checked with a hand-held
vacuum pump (see illustration). Apply vacuum
and watch that the door or control it operates is
working.
12Further diagnosis of the controls or
climate control ECU are best left to a Jaguar
dealership or other qualified repair facility.
13 Air conditioning and heating
system- check and
maintenance
1
Air conditioning system
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any hose fittings
or remove any components until
the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved
recovery/recycling unit by a dealer service
department or an automotive air
conditioning repair facility. Always wear
eye protection when working near air
conditioning system fittings.
1The following maintenance checks should
be performed on a regular basis to ensure that
the air conditioner continues to operate at
peak efficiency:
a) Inspect the condition of the compressor
drivebelt. If it is worn or deteriorated,
renew it (see Chapter 1).
b) Check the drivebelt tension and, if
necessary, adjust it (see Chapter 1).
c) Inspect the system hoses. Look for
cracks, bubbles, hardening and
deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all
fittings for oil bubbles or seepage. If there
is any evidence of wear, damage or
leakage, renew the hose(s).d) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,
bugs and any other foreign material that
may have embedded itself in the fins. Use
a “fin comb” or compressed air to remove
debris from the condenser.
e) Make sure the system has the correct
refrigerant charge.
2It’s a good idea to operate the system for
about ten minutes at least once a month. This
is particularly important during the winter
months because long term non-use can
cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of
the seals.
3Leaks in the air conditioning system are
best spotted when the system is brought up
to operating temperature and pressure, by
running the engine with the air conditioning
ON for five minutes. Shut the engine off and
inspect the air conditioning hoses and
connections. Traces of oil usually indicate
refrigerant leaks.
4Because of the complexity of the air
conditioning system and the special
equipment required to effectively work on it,
accurate troubleshooting of the system
should be left to a professional technician.
5If the air conditioning system doesn’t
operate at all, check the fuse panel and the air
conditioning relay (refer to Chapter 12 for
relay locations and testing). See Sections 4, 9
and 12 for electrical checks of heating/air
conditioning system components.
6The most common cause of poor cooling is
simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a
noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the
following quick check will help you determine
if the refrigerant level is low.
Checking the refrigerant charge
7Warm the engine up to normal operating
temperature.
8Place the air conditioning temperature
selector at the coldest setting and put the
Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems 3•11
3
3261 Jaguar XJ6 12.3b Remove the four screws (three are shown here) holding the
control assembly in the control/radio housing
12.11 Check the operation of the vacuum servo motors; in this
case, vacuum is applied to the servo on the right blower case -
the flapper door (arrowed) should operate

blower at the highest setting. Open the doors
(to make sure the air conditioning system
doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the
passenger compartment).
9With the compressor engaged - the clutch
will make an audible click and the centre of
the clutch will rotate. After the system reaches
operating temperature, feel the two pipes
connected to the evaporator at the bulkhead
(see illustration).
10The pipe (thinner tubing) leading from the
condenser outlet to the evaporator should be
cold, and the evaporator outlet line (the
thicker tubing that leads back to the
compressor) should be slightly colder (3 to
10° F). If the evaporator outlet is considerably
warmer than the inlet, the system needs a
charge. Insert a thermometer in the centre air
distribution duct while operating the air
conditioning system - the temperature of the
output air should be 35 to 40° F below the
ambient air temperature (down to approxi-
mately 40° F). If the ambient (outside) air
temperature is very high, say 110° F, the duct
air temperature may be as high as 60° F, but
generally the air conditioning is 30 to 50° F
cooler than the ambient air. If the air isn’t as
cold as it used to be, the system probably
needs a charge. Further inspection or testing
of the system is beyond the scope of the
home mechanic and should be left to a
professional.
11Inspect the sight glass (see illustration).
If the refrigerant looks foamy when running,
it’s low. When ambient temperatures are very
hot, bubbles may show in the sight glass even
with the proper amount of refrigerant. With the
proper amount of refrigerant, when the air
conditioning is turned off, the sight glass
should show refrigerant that foams, then
clears. Note:1993 and 1994 models are
equipped with R-134a refrigerant systems and
do not have a sight glass.Heating systems
12If the air coming out of the heater vents
isn’t hot, the problem could stem from any of
the following causes:
a) The thermostat is stuck open, preventing
the engine coolant from warming up
enough to carry heat to the heater core.
Renew the thermostat (see Section 3).
b) A heater hose is blocked, preventing the
flow of coolant through the heater core.
Feel both heater hoses at the bulkhead.
They should be hot. If one of them is cold,
there is an obstruction in one of the hoses
or in the heater core, or the heater control
valve is shut. Detach the hoses and back
flush the heater core with a water hose. If
the heater core is clear but circulation is
impeded, remove the two hoses and flush
them out with a water hose.
c) If flushing fails to remove the blockage
from the heater core, the core must be
renewed.(see Section 11).
13If the blower motor speed does not
correspond to the setting selected on the
blower switch, the problem could be a badfuse, circuit, control panel or climate control
computer (see Sections 10 and 12).
14If there isn’t any air coming out of the
vents:
a) Turn the ignition ON and activate the fan
control. Place your ear at the heating/air
conditioning register (vent) and listen.
Most motors are audible. Can you hear
the motor running?
b) If you can’t (and have already verified that
the blower switch and the blower motor
resistor are good), the blower motor itself
is probably bad (see Section 10).
15If the carpet under the heater core is
damp, or if antifreeze vapour or steam is
coming through the vents, the heater core is
leaking. Remove it (see Section 11) and refit a
new unit (most radiator shops will not repair a
leaking heater core).
16Inspect the drain hose from the heat/AC
assembly at the right side of the bulkhead,
make sure it is not clogged (see illustration).
If there is a humid mist coming from the
system ducts, this hose may be plugged. In
some early models, the hose may have been
pinched during assembly or blocked with
insulation or underseal.
14 Air conditioning
receiver/drier-
removal and refitting
4
Warning: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any hose fittings
or remove any components until
the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved recovery/
recycling unit by a dealer service depart-
ment or an automotive air conditioning
3•12 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
13.16 This drain hose (arrowed) from the
heater/air conditioning unit should be kept
clear to allow drainage of condensation
3261 Jaguar XJ6 13.9 Feel the inlet (small arrow) and outlet (large arrow) pipes at
the bulkhead leading to the air conditioning evaporator (battery
removed here for clarity only)
13.11 The sight glass (arrowed) is located on the top of the
receiver/drier, to the right of the radiator

cushions fit on the mounting points and that
any foam insulator strips are still in place or
transferred to the new condenser.
6Reconnect the refrigerant lines, using new
O-rings. If a new condenser has been
installed, add 84 cc (3 fluid ounces) of new
refrigerant oil. Note:The oil and O-rings must
be compatible with the type of refrigerant you
are using.
7Refit the remaining parts in the reverse
order of removal.
8Have the system evacuated, charged and
leak tested by the workshop that discharged
it.
17 Air conditioning evaporator
and expansion valve-
removal and refitting
4
Warning 1: The air conditioning
system is under high pressure.
Do not loosen any hose fittings
or remove any components until
the system has been discharged. Air
conditioning refrigerant should be properly
discharged into an EPA-approved
recovery/recycling unit by a dealer service
department or an automotive airconditioning repair facility. Always wear
eye protection when disconnecting air
conditioning system fittings.
Warning 2: Later model vehicles
are equipped with airbags. To
prevent the accidental
deployment of the airbag, which
could cause personal injury or damage to
the airbag system, DO NOT work in the
vicinity of the steering wheel or instrument
panel. The manufacturer recommends
that, on airbag-equipped models, the
following procedure should be left to a
dealer service department or other repair
workshop because of the special tools and
techniques required to disable the airbag
system.
1Refer to Chapter 11 for removal of the glove
compartment, under-dash panels and
console. Note:The removal of the
heater/evaporator housing is difficult and
time-consuming, much more so than the
removal of the heater core (see Section 11).
For some home mechanics, the job is better
left to a Jaguar dealership or other qualified
repair workshop.
2Disconnect the air conditioning lines from
the backside of the expansion valve (at the
bulkhead, just to the right of the engine), usingtwo spanners (see illustration). Cap the open
fittings and expansion valve after dismantling
to prevent the entry of air or dirt.
3Refer to Section 11 for moving the climate-
control computer aside and disconnecting the
heater core pipes.
4From the engine side of the bulkhead, near
the expansion valve, remove the nut retaining
the heat/air conditioning assembly housing
(see illustration). Another mounting nut is on
the left side, under the wiper motor (see
illustration 11.2).
5Disconnect the defroster ducts on the left
and right side of the evaporator housing (see
illustration).
6Identify all of the vacuum motor lines with
masking tape and a felt pen, then disconnect
the lines. Note:Most vacuum lines are colour-
coded. Make notes on which ones go to
which devices.
7Tag and disconnect the wiring plugs
connected to the heating/air conditioning
housing.
8At the bottom left and bottom right of the
housing, pull off the rubber drain tubes that go
into the flooring.
9Remove the four rod-type support braces.
Two support the dash, and two connect the
case to the floor of the car (see illustrations).
3•14 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems
17.5 Left duct (large arrow) can be removed
by pulling off the clip (small arrow) - right
duct pulls out without a clip17.9a Unbolt the four support braces
(small arrows) from the case (large arrow)
and floor17.9b Black case-support rods are held
with nuts (arrowed), the gold dash-support
rods are retained by a bolt/nut to the dash
3261 Jaguar XJ6 17.2 Use two spanners when disconnecting the air conditioning
lines (arrowed) at the bulkhead, on the backside of the expansion
valve - one spanner holds the body of the expansion valve
17.4 Remove the housing retaining nut (arrowed) on the engine
side of the bulkhead, near the expansion valve - another nut is on
the right, near the heater core pipes