1997 JAGUAR XJ6 Engine

23Clean and lubricate the lower tensioner.
Fill the lower tensioner oil reservoir with engine
oil and refit it on the engine block, aligning the
notch in the tensioner with the lug on the back
of the guide (see illustrations). This should
remove all slack from the lower timing chain. If
not, push the lower tensioner guide back and
forth a few times to prime the tensioner.
24Refit the upper chain tensioner guide and
mounting bracket to the engine block.
Caution: Before fully tightening the
mounting bracket to the engine block,
make sure the mount and chain guide are
clear of the lower chain, auxiliary sprocket
and intermediate sprocket. If necessary,
position the mount for clearance before
tightening the mounting bolts.
25Refit the oil pump drive chain and
sprocket to the crankshaft (see Section 13).
26Refit the upper chain fixed guide to the
engine block and place the upper timing chain
over the intermediate sprocket and auxiliary
shaft sprocket, draping the excess chain over
the top of the fixed guide. Lubricate the chain
and sprockets with clean engine oil.27Gather the loose portion of the upper
timing chain and place it between the upper
guides. Use a large rubber band to hold the
two guides snugly around the chain (see
Section 11).
28If necessary, renew the intermediate shaft
seal (see illustrations).
29Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the
engine side of the front cover and RTV sealant
to the oil-pan mating surface (bottom of the
front cover), then refit the front cover. Note:
Make sure the top surface of the cover aligns
with the top surface of the engine block, by
checking with a straightedge(see illustration).
30Refer to Section 11 for refitting of the
cylinder head and Section 10 for refitting of
the camshafts and connection of the upper
timing chain to the two camshaft sprockets.
31The remainder of the refitting is the
reverse of the removal procedure. If your car
is equipped with the hydraulic/self-levelling
suspension, refit the drive coupling and
coupling disc to the intermediate shaft (see
illustrations 8.9a and 8.9b). Coat the
mounting surface of the pump with RTVsealant and make sure the tang on the pump
aligns with the slot in the intermediate shaft
before bolting the pump to the front cover.
Refer to Section 7 for refitting of the
crankshaft spacer, damper and puller.
Caution: DO NOT start the engine until
you’re absolutely certain that the timing
chains are installed correctly. Serious and
costly engine damage could occur if the
chains are installed wrong.
32Run the engine and check for proper
operation.
9 Auxiliary shaft- renewal
3
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
1Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the power
steering pump, without disconnecting the
hoses. Remove the plastic power steering
pump drive coupling disc.
2A•8 Engine in-car repair procedures
8.28a Drill a small hole in the intermediate
shaft seal, thread a sheet metal screw into
it and use a small slide-hammer pull the
seal out of the cover8.28b Drive the new seal in with a seal-
driver or socket, to the same depth as the
original seal8.29 Bolt the front cover on hand tight, use
a straightedge to make sure the cover’s
top surface is level with the top of the
engine block, then tighten the cover bolts
3261 Jaguar XJ6 8.23a Add oil to the reservoir in the lower tensioner . . .
8.23b . . . and refit the tensioner against the guide -
after it’s installed, push the tensioner guide back and forth
a few times to prime the tensioner

2Refer to Section 8 and remove the front
cover and upper and lower timing chains.
3Remove the power steering drive coupling
from the auxiliary shaft (see illustration).
4Use a small drill to drill holes in the oil seal,
then use a slide-hammer puller to remove the
seal from the rear of the auxiliary shaft
housing (see illustration).
Caution: Drill straight and carefully to avoid
damaging the auxiliary shaft.
5Use a pair of snap-ring pliers to remove the
snap ring from the rear of the auxiliary shaft
(see illustration).
6Pull the auxiliary shaft out toward the front
of the engine.
7Remove the three internal hex-head bolts
and the auxiliary shaft housing.
8Examine the surface of the auxiliary shaft,
it’s sprocket, and the distributor drive-gear. If
there is noticeable wear or damage, replace
the auxiliary shaft assembly with a new one
(see illustration).
9If the auxiliary shaft housing has been
removed, clean it, scrape away the old gasket
material from the housing and the engine
block and refit the housing with a new gasket
(see illustration).
10Clean the auxiliary shaft, lubricate it with
engine oil and refit it through the front of the
block, then refit the washer (see illustration).
Refit the snap-ring(refer to illustration 9.4).11The new oil seal for the rear of the auxiliary
shaft comes with a plastic refitting sleeve that
keeps the seal lip from folding back during
refitting. Keep this sleeve in place until the seal
is fully installed. Tap the new seal into the
housing with a hammer and appropriate-size
socket until the seal is flush, then remove the
plastic sleeve (see illustration).
12The remainder of the refitting is the
reverse of removal. Note:When refitting the
distributor (see Chapter 5), use a new O-ring
to prevent oil leaks at the distributor.
13Run the engine and check for oil leaks at
the power steering pump-to-housing interface.10 Camshafts and valve lifters-
removal, inspection and
refitting
4
Removal
Note:The renewal of the camshafts requires
the use of several special tools. Read through
the procedure and acquire the special tools,
or their equivalent, before beginning work.
1Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).
2Refer to Section 3 and position the engine
at TDC for number 1 cylinder.
3Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the
distributor cap and set it aside along with the
spark plug leads. Mark the positions of the
distributor body and rotor.
4Using a feeler gauge, measure and record
the clearance between the intake and exhaust
camshaft lobes and the lifters for cylinder
number 1 (see illustration). Rotate the
crankshaft until the next cylinder in the firing
order is at TDC and check and record the
valve clearance for that cylinder. Following the
firing order, check and record the valve
clearance for the remaining valves with the
appropriate cylinder at TDC.
5Return the engine to TDC for cylinder
number 1. Using the special tool (Jaguar tool
no. 18G 1433), check the position of each
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9
2A
9.3 Use a screwdriver to hold the drive
coupling (arrowed) stationary while
removing the bolt9.4 Remove the auxiliary shaft seal with a
small slide-hammer puller9.5 Use snap-ring pliers to remove the
snap ring (arrowed) from the shaft - note
the three internal hex-head bolts retaining
the housing to the engine block
9.8 Inspect these areas of the auxiliary
shaft for wear
A Oil seal surface
B Bearing journalC Sprocket
D Distributor drive9.9 Refit the auxiliary shaft rear housing
with a new gasket, aligning the oil slot
(arrowed) with the housing
3261 Jaguar XJ6
9.10 Refit the washer before replacing the
snap-ring
9.11 Tap the seal squarely into the bore
with a socket until the seal is flush
with the housing, then remove the
plastic fitting sleeve

camshaft to ensure that they are truly at TDC
(see illustration). It may be necessary to
rotate the crankshaft slightly, to allow the tool
to fit into the slot. Once the camshafts are
positioned, DO NOT rotate the crankshaft
further.
6Check the TDC marks made on the
distributor body and refer to Chapter 5 for
removal of the distributor. Note:Plug the
distributor hole with a rag to keep out dirt.7Locate the upper timing chain tensioner on
the right front of the cylinder head. Loosen the
bolt on the clamp and swing the clamp away
from the tensioner return valve, then remove
the valve (see illustration).
8Remove the tensioner bolts and pull out the
tensioner.
9The camshaft bearing caps are each
retained by three bolts (the two front caps on
each camshaft have only two bolts), of whichone is a cylinder head bolt that threads into the
engine block. If the camshafts are being
removed as a step in cylinder head removal,
the following steps involving spacer blocks are
not required, just remove the bolts and caps,
then remove the camshafts. If the procedure is
being used for camshaft removal or adjustment
of the lifter shims, the procedure must be
followed exactly to maintain the cylinder head
gasket seal.
10To maintain a good seal on the cylinder
head gasket, if the cylinder head is not being
removed, a spacer block (Jaguar tool no.
18G 1435) is used to replace each camshaft
bearing cap as it is removed. Begin by
unbolting and removing intake cap no. 2.
Remove the large cylinder head bolt first, then
the cap bolts. Without delay, refit a spacer
block, with the cylinder head bolt, and tighten it
to 53 Nm (39 lbf ft) (see illustrations).
11Repeat paragraph 10 with the remainder
of the intake camshaft caps in sequence. After
cap 5 in the sequence, loosen the front and
rear caps alternately until valve spring
pressure is relieved from the camshaft (see
illustrations). Note:No spacer blocks are
required with the number 1 camshaft caps.
2A•10 Engine in-car repair procedures
10.7 Loosen this bolt (arrowed) and swing
the clamp away from the tensioner, then
use pliers to pull the valve out10.10a As each cap is removed . . .10.10b . . . replace it with the special
spacer block (arrowed) and tighten the
cylinder head bolt to 53 Nm (39 lbf ft)
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.4 Measure the valve clearance with a feeler gauge inserted
between the heel of the camshaft lobe and the lifter
10.5 Position the camshaft alignment tool over each camshaft - the
projection on the tool only fits into the slot on the camshafts when
they are at TDC - flip the tool over to check the other camshaft
10.11a Each of the camshaft bearing caps
are stamped with I (intake) or E (exhaust)
and a number (arrowed)10.11b After cap no. 2 is replaced with a
spacer, repeat the procedure for the other
caps in the sequence shown - after cap 5,
loosen caps 6 and 7 alternately until valve
spring pressure is relieved

12Remove the four bolts in each camshaft
inner sprocket (see illustration). The bolts are
secured by sheetmetal “washer” plates. Bend
down the locking tabs with a hammer and
screwdriver tip to remove the bolts.
Caution: Stuff rags below the sprockets
while removing the bolts to prevent a bolt
from falling down into the front cover.
13Remove the two bolts retaining the upper
chain guide to the cylinder head (see
illustration).
14Pull the inner sprockets from each
camshaft (see illustration). Each camshaft
sprocket is comprised of an inner and outer,
each with a set of fine splines that lock them
together. The outer sprockets, with the teeth,
can rotate on the camshafts until the inner
sprocket bolts are tightened.
15Pull the outer sprockets from the
camshafts and allow the chain slacken.
16At this point the camshafts can be
carefully lifted straight up and off the cylinder
head. Take care not to nick any of the lobes or
journals during removal.
17Use a magnet to remove the lifters,
keeping them in order in a divided, numbered
box (see illustration). They must be returned
to their original location if reusing the original
camshafts!
18Removing the lifters exposes the
adjusting shims, sitting in a pocket in eachvalve spring retainer (see illustration). Keep
the shims with their matching lifters. Measure
the thickness of each shim with a micrometer
and record the measurements.
Inspection
19After the camshaft has been removed
from the engine, cleaned with solvent and
dried, inspect the bearing journals for uneven
wear, pitting and evidence of seizure. If the
journals are damaged, the bearing surfaces in
the cylinder head and caps may be damaged
as well, requiring renewal of the cylinder head.
20Measure the bearing journals with a
micrometer to determine if they are excessivelyworn or out-of-round (see illustration).
Compare the measurements to Specifications.
21Check the camshaft lobes for heat
discolouration, score marks, chipped areas,
pitting and uneven wear. Measure the lobe
heights with a micrometer and record the
measurements (see illustrations). If there is
variance of more than 0.005-inch, the
camshaft and lifters must be renewed. If the
lobes are in good condition, the camshaft can
be reused.
22Inspect the top, bottom and side surfaces
of the lifters for wear, grooving or scoring. If
the lifters are damaged, the camshaft and its
lifters must be renewed as a set.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11
2A
10.13 Remove the two bolts and the upper
timing chain guide (arrowed)10.14 Pull the inner sprocket from the
outer sprocket of each camshaft
10.17 A magnet can be used to remove
the lifters (arrowed)10.18 The valve adjustment shims
(arrowed) fit into a pocket in the valve
spring retainer - use a magnet to remove
the shims and keep them with their
respective lifters10.20 Measure the bearing journals with a
micrometer to check diameter - measure
at several places around the journal to
check for taper or out-of-round
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.12 Bend back the locking tabs
(arrowed) and remove the camshaft
sprocket bolts
10.21a Measure the camshaft lobe at its
greatest dimension . . .10.21b . . . and subtract the camshaft lobe
diameter at its smallest dimension to
obtain the lobe lift

Refitting
23If the valve clearance for any valve is
incorrect, as measured in paragraph 4, refit a
thicker or thinner shim on that valve. For
example, if the clearance had been too large
by 0.004-inch (compared to the recommended
clearance in the Specifications), replace the
existing shim there with a new one that is
0.004-inch thicker. If the clearance was too
small, use a shim that is smaller than the
original. Shims are identified alphabetically, in
sizes from 0.085-inch (designated size A, the
smallest) to 0.108-inch (designated size X, the
thickest).
24Lubricate the lifters with a thin coat of
moly-based lubricant on the top, bottom and
sides and refit them in their original positions.
25Lubricate the camshafts with moly-based
grease on the journals and lobes and lay them
carefully in their bearing saddles.
26Using NEW cylinder head bolts, replace
the spacers, one at a time, with the bearing
caps and bolts. Tighten the cap bolts, then
the cylinder head bolts to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications. The front capshould be installed first, then cap number 7,
then alternately tighten the first and last caps
to bring the camshaft down evenly. Next refit
caps 4, 2, 3, 5, and 6.
27Align the intake camshaft with the special
camshaft positioning tool as described in
paragraph 5. Engage the outer sprocket with
the chain, slip the sprocket over the end of the
camshaft, then turn it until there is no slack in
the chain to the right of the camshaft sprocket
(facing the front of the engine). Now align the
inner sprocket with the camshaft until the bolt
holes align and mesh the splines between the
two sprocket halves (see illustrations).
Tighten the inner sprocket bolts to the
camshaft and bend the locking sheetmetal
tabs over the bolts.
28Keeping the slack in the chain to the left
of the exhaust camshaft, refit the exhaust
camshaft outer sprocket, meshed with the
chain, over the end of the exhaust camshaft.
Insert the timing chain tensioner tool (Jaguar
tool no. 18G 1436) at the upper tensioner
mounting point (see illustration). Note:The
chain tensioner tool applies pressure to the
upper timing chain to simulate the effect of thetensioner, which is operated by engine oil
pressure when the engine is running.
29Align the exhaust camshaft to TDC with
the special timing gauge tool. Tighten the
centre bolt in the tensioner tool to 4 to 6 Nm.
When the chain is tensioned, align the inner
exhaust sprocket with the bolt holes in the
camshaft, engage the splines between the
two sprocket halves and secure the sprocket
with the bolts and locking tabs. Refit the clip
to secure the two sprocket halves together.
30Clean the tensioner gasket surface, fit a
new gasket and O-rings, push the ratchet
down and twist it to maintain the fully
retracted position, and refit the tensioner in
place of the tensioning tool (see illustration).
Note:Align the slot in the end of the tensioner
straight up and down to fit over the tang on
the back of the chain tensioner guide.
31Rotate the engine and recheck that all
valve clearance measurements are now
correct (see paragraph 4).
32The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
the removal procedure. Note:When refitting
the distributor, use a new O-ring where it fits
into the engine block.
2A•12 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 10.27a Each camshaft sprocket is comprised of two sections, an
inner (A) and outer (B) that are splined together
10.27b Push the outer sprocket over the intake camshaft until it
locks in place - then turn the sprocket left to remove chain slack
at the right
10.28 The special tensioning tool simulates the operation of the
oil-driven tensioner - apply 4 to 6 Nm (36 to 48 inch-pounds)
pressure on the centre bolt (arrowed)10.30 Upper timing chain tension components
A Notch (to align
with tang on guide)B Tensioner ratchet
C O-ringD Gasket
E valve (with O-rings)

11 Cylinder head-
removal and refitting
4
Note:The engine must be completely cool
before beginning this procedure.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Caution: If the stereo in your vehicle is
equipped with an anti-theft system, make
sure you have the correct activation code
before disconnecting the battery.
2Drain the coolant from the engine block and
radiator (see Chapter 1).
3Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
(see Chapter 1).
4Remove the bonnet for easier access, if
necessary (see Chapter 11).
5Remove the intake manifold (see Section 5).
6Remove the exhaust manifolds (Section 6).
7Remove the valve cover (see Section 4).
8Refer to Section 3 and Position the engine
at TDC for cylinder number 1. Remove the
distributor (see Chapter 5).
9Remove the camshafts and sprockets (see
Section 10). Place the upper chain between
the two upper chain guides and wrap a large
rubber band around the two guides, retaining
the chain and guides.
10Remove the coolant housing from the
cylinder head (see illustration).
11Remove the cylinder head-to-front cover
bolts (see illustration).
12Using a socket and breaker bar, loosen
the cylinder head bolts in quarter-turn
increments until they can be removed by
hand. Loosen the cylinder head bolts using
the opposite of the recommended tightening
sequence (see illustration 11.23)to avoid
warping or cracking the cylinder head.
13Lift the cylinder head off the engine block.
If it’s stuck, very carefully pry up at the
transmission end, beyond the gasket surface.
Caution: Though the cylinder head is
aluminium, it is still heavy, large andawkward to handle. To avoid damaging the
body during removal, use an engine hoist
to lift the cylinder head out of the engine
compartment, or have an assistant help
you.
14With the cylinder head on a workbench,
remove all external components from the
cylinder head to allow for thorough cleaning
and inspection. See Chapter 2, Part B, for
cylinder head servicing procedures.
Refitting
15The mating surfaces of the cylinder head
and engine block must be perfectly clean
when the cylinder head is installed.
16Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces
of carbon and old gasket material, then clean
the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or
acetone. If there’s oil on the mating surfaces
when the cylinder head is installed, the gasket
may not seal correctly and leaks could
develop. When working on the engine block,
stuff the cylinders with clean workshop rags
to keep out debris. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove material that falls into the cylinders.
Caution: Use care when cleaning the
cylinder head gasket surface. The cylinder
head and engine block are aluminium and
can be easily damaged by using sharpscraping tools. Gasket removal solvents
are available from car accessory outlets
and may be useful for safe removal of
gasket material.
17Check the engine block and cylinder head
mating surface for nicks, deep scratches and
damage from coolant corrosion. If damage is
slight, it can be removed with a file; if it’s
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative. See Part B of this Chapter for
procedures and criteria concerning the repair
of corrosion damage.
18Use a tap of the correct size to chase the
threads in the cylinder head bolt holes, then
clean the holes with compressed air - make
sure that nothing remains in the holes.
Warning: Wear eye protection
when using compressed air!
19Remove the rear cover from the cylinder
head. Clean the gasket surface and refit the
cover with a new gasket (see illustration).
Place the side of the gasket with the sealer
bead against the cylinder head, do not use
sealant on this gasket.
20Fabricate two alignment studs from the
old head bolts. Cut off the heads, then slot the
ends with a hacksaw (see illustration). New
cylinder head bolts must be used when
refitting the head.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•13
2A
11.19 Remove the rear cover from the
cylinder head, clean the gasket surfaces
and refit the cover with a new gasket
(arrowed) - note that the printed-on sealer
bead is placed against the cylinder head11.20 Fabricate two alignment studs from
old cylinder head bolts and refit them in
the engine block - after the cylinder head
is installed, remove the two studs
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.10 Disconnect the hoses and remove the bolts to separate the
coolant housing (arrowed) from the cylinder head
11.11 Remove the bolts (arrowed) securing the cylinder head
to the front cover

21There are variations in cooling holes in
some models. Before refitting the cylinder
head gasket, carefully check all of the
passages and bolt holes in the new cylinder
head gasket to be sure it matches your engine
block. Also make sure the new cylinder head
gasket you’re using is equipped with the
improved oil transfer hole seal (see
illustration). Position the cylinder head gasket
over the dowel pins in the engine block, make
sure TOP is facing up (see illustration).
22Carefully place the cylinder head on the
engine block without disturbing the gasket.
23Refit NEW cylinder head bolts and
following the recommended sequence,
tighten the bolts in two steps to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications(see
illustration). Step 2 of the tightening
sequence requires the bolts to be tightened
and additional 90°. An angle-torque
attachment for your torque wrench is available
at car accessory outlets. This tool provides
precision when the angle-torque method is
required and its use is highly recommended. If
the tool is not available, paint a mark on the
edge of each cylinder head bolt and tighten
the bolt until the mark is 90¡ from the startingpoint. After the cylinder head bolts are
tightened, tighten the cylinder head-to-timing-
cover bolts.
24The remaining refitting steps are the
reverse of removal. Refer to Section 10 for
replacing the camshaft sprockets and
adjusting the timing chain and tensioner. Refill
the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
25Run the engine and check for oil or
coolant leaks. Adjust the ignition timing (see
Chapter 5) and road test the car.
12 Sump- removal and refitting
4
Removal
1 Note:The sump cannot be removed with
the engine in the chassis without lowering the
front suspension and crossmember. This is a
difficult procedure for the home mechanic
without a vehicle hoist and some other
specialised tools. The other alternative
requires the engine be removed from the car
and mounted on a stand, as we haveillustrated here. Refer to Part B of this Chapter
for engine removal procedures.
2Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter
(see Chapter 1).
3Remove the bolts and detach the sump
(see illustration).
4If it’s stuck, pry it loose very carefully with a
small screwdriver or putty knife (see
illustration). Don’t damage the mating
surfaces of the pan and engine block or oil
leaks could develop.
2A•14 Engine in-car repair procedures
3261 Jaguar XJ6 11.21a Only use a head gasket with the improved oil transfer seal
(right arrow) - the older style (left arrow) is prone to oil leaks
11.21b Place the new head gasket over the dowels in the engine
block - note the markings for UP or TOP printed on the gasket
11.23 Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING sequence12.3 Remove the sump bolts (arrowed)
12.4 Pry at the recess in the front of the
sump to break the gasket seal - insert a
putty knife, if necessary, between the
sump and engine block

Refitting
5Remove all traces of old gasket material
and sealant from the engine block and sump.
Clean the mating surface with lacquer thinner
or acetone.
Caution: Do not use a sharp scraping tool.
Both the sump and the engine block are
aluminium and could be easily damaged.
6Make sure the threaded bolt holes in the
engine block and bellhousing are clean.
7Inspect the flange of the sump for any
cracks, pits or scratches that could cause an
oil leak.
8Remove the baffle plate at the rear of the
sump (see illustration). Clean the sump area
and the baffle, then refit the baffle.
9Inspect the oil pump pickup tube for
cracks, or foreign material blocking the screen
(see illustration).
10Apply a bead of RTV sealant to the sump
flange(see illustration). Note:The sump
must be installed within 5 minutes of sealer
application.
11Carefully position the sump on the engine
block and push it toward the transmission
adapter plate as you press it against the
engine block. Loosely refit four bolts, two on
each side of the sump. Tighten the four bolts
in a criss-cross pattern to the torque listed in
this Chapter’s Specifications, then loosen
each bolt 90°.
12Refit the two engine adapter-to-sump
bolts. Tighten the two bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, then
loosen each one 180°.
13Refit the remainder of the sump-to-engine
block bolts hand tight until all are installed,
then tighten them to the torque listed in this
Chapter’s Specifications. Lastly, tighten the
two adapter-to-sump bolts to the torque
listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.
Caution: Failure to follow this tightening
procedure could stress or possibly crack
the adapter plate.
14The remainder of refitting is the reverse of
removal. Be sure to add oil and refit a new oil
filter.
15Run the engine and check for oil pressure
and leaks.13 Oil pump- removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Removal
1Remove the sump (see Section 12).
2Unbolt the oil pickup tube and oil transfer
housing from the engine block (see
illustration). Note:Have a drain pan under the
transfer housing, as oil may drip out when the
housing is loosened from the engine block.
3Carefully pull the transfer housing and
transfer tubes to the rear to separate them
from the oil pump body.
4Bend back the locking tabs and remove thethree bolts retaining the oil pump drive
sprocket to the oil pump (see illustration).
Pull the chain and sprocket from the front of
the pump. Note:There are shims between the
sprocket and the pump. Collect them while
pulling off the sprocket.
5Remove the bolts and detach the oil pump
from the engine.
6Remove all traces of sealant and old gasket
material from the oil pump body and engine
block, then clean the mating surfaces with
lacquer thinner or acetone.
7Remove the screws and separate the front
and rear pump covers from the body. Lift out
the drive and driven rotors (see illustrations).
Note:Mark the front face of each rotor before
removing them.
Engine in-car repair procedures 2A•15
2A
12.8 Remove the bolts (arrowed) and the
sheetmetal baffle plate - clean the sump
area of the sump with the baffle removed12.9 Lubrication system components
A Oil pump
B Transfer tubesC Transfer housing
D Oil pump pickup12.10 Apply a bead of RTV sealant around
the perimeter of the sump mounting
flange, be sure to run the bead around the
outside all bolt the holes
13.7a Remove the bolts and separate the
front and rear pump covers13.7b Remove the outer rotor (A)
and inner rotor (B)
13.2 Unbolt the oil pump pickup (A) and
the bolts (B) retaining the transfer
assembly (C) to the engine block13.4 Pry back the locking tabs and remove
the three bolts retaining the oil pump drive
sprocket to the pump
3261 Jaguar XJ6