1997 GMC SIERRA ESP

When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parkine
on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine;
Shift into a gear; and
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important
in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t
overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt, cooling system
and brake adjustment. Each
of these is covered in this
manual, and
the Index will help you find them quickly.
If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these
sections before you start your trip.
Trailer Wiring Harness
A seven-wire harness is stored under the rear end of
your vehicle, between
the frame rails. An electrical
connector will need to be installed at the trailer end of
the harness, by a qualified electrical technician. For
additional trailer wiring and towing information please
consult your
GM dealer. Securely attach the harness to
the trailer, then tape or strap
it to your vehicle’s frame
rail. Be sure you leave it loose enough
so the wiring
won’t bind or break when turning with the trailer, but
not
so loose that it drags on the ground. Store the
harness in its original position. Wrap the harness
together and tie
it neatly so it won’t be damaged. If you
tow
a trailer, your Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL) may not be properly visible from behind.
You
should select a trailer with a CHMSL on it or, if one is
not available, have one installed. See your
GM dealer
about how to connect your vehicle’s wiring
to a
trailer CHMSL.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
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Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spi.ns faster to provide
more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is
not fully engaged. This improves
fuel economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages.
So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This
is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this
fan noise when you start the engine.
It will
go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving,
especially
if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out
of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have
a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use in
a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but
you can still steer. Gently
brake
to a stop -- well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to
use your
jacking equipment
to change a flat tire safely.
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How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this
done at your GM dealership
Service Department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here,
or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your
transmission.
Too much can mean that some of
the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine
parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire. Be
sure to get an accurate reading if you check your
transmission fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
0 When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal
operating temperature, which
is 180°F to 200 "F
(82°C to 93°C).
Checking Transmission Fluid Hot
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(10°C). If it's colder than 50°F ( 10°C), drive the
vehicle
in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes. Then
follow
the hot check procedures.
Checking Transmission Fluid Cold
A cold check is made after the vehicle has been sitting
for eight hours or more with the engine
off and is used
only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five
minutes if outside temperatures are 50°F
( 10°C) or
more. If it's colder than
50°F (lO"C), you may have
to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low
during a cold check,
you must perform a hot check
before adding fluid. This will give you a more accurate
reading
of the fluid level.
0 At high speed for quite a while.
0 In heavy traffic -- especially in hot weather.
0 While pulling a trailer.
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I
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must
be in the COLD area for a
cold check or in the HOT area or cross-hatched area
for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind
of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants”
in the Index. Add
fluid only after checking the transmission fluid
HOT. (A COLD check is used only as a reference.) If the
fluid level is low, add only enough
of the proper fluid to
bring the level up to the
HOT area for a hot check. It
doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint
(0.5 L). Don ’t ove@ZZ.
NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRON@-111, because fluid with that label is
made especially
for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON-111
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under
“HOW to Check.”
0 When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all
the way; then flip the handle
down to lock the dipstick
in place.
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L
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while
driving.
If you mix tires of different sizes or types
(radial and bias-belted tires), the vehicle may not
handle properly, and
you could have a crash.
Using tires
of different sizes may also cause
damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same
size and type tires on all wheels.
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The following information relates to the system
developed
by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This
applies only
to vehicles sold in the United States.) The
grades are molded
on the sidewalls of most passenger
car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading system
does not apply to deep tread, winter-type snow tires,
space-saver or temporary use spare tires, tires with
nominal rim diameters
of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm),
or to some limited-production tires. While
the tires available on General Motors passenger
cars and light trucks may
vary with respect to these
grades, they must also conform to Federal safety
requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate
of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions
on a specified government test course. For
example, a tire graded
150 would wear one and a half
( 1 1/2) times as well on the government course as a tire
graded
100. The relative performance of tires depends
upon the actual conditions of their use, however, and
may depart significantly from the norm due
to variations
in driving habits, service practices and differences in
road characteristics and climate.
Traction -- A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are A, B, and
C, and they represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet
pavement as measured under controlled conditions on
specified government test surfaces
of asphalt and concrete.
A tire marked C may have poor traction performance.
Warning: The traction grade assigned to this tire is based
on braking (straightahead) traction tests and does not
include cornering (turning) traction.
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Temperature -- A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire's resistance to the generation of
heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested under
controlled conditions on a specified indoor laboratory
test wheel. Sustained high temperature can cause the
material of the tire to degenerate and reduce tire life, and
excessive temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.
The grade
C corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet under the
Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades
B and A represent higher levels of performance on the
laboratory test wheel than the minimum required by law.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire
is
established for a tire that is properly inflated and not
overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation,
or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced
carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance. Scheduled
wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not
needed. However, if
you notice unusual tire wear or
your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment
may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle
vibrating
when driving on a smooth road, your wheels
may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel,
wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the
wheel leaks air, replace
it (except some aluminum
wheels, which can sometimes be repaired). See your
GM dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel
you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted
the
same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only
with new GM original
equipment parts. This way, you
will be sure to have the
right wheel, wheel bolts
and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
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Roadside Assistance
1
GMC’s Roadside Assistance provides stranded owners
with over-the-phone roadside repairs, location of the
nearest
GMC dealer or the following special services:
FZat Tire Change: Installation of spare tire will be
covered at no charge (customer is responsible for repair
or replacement of tire).
Fuel Delivery: Delivery of enough fuel for the customer
to get to the nearest service station (up to
$4.00) will
be covered.
Jump Start: No-start situations which require a battery
jump start will be covered at no charge.
Lock Out: Replacement keys or locksmith service will
be covered at no charge if you are unable to gain entry
into your vehicle. Delivery of
the replacement key will
be covered at no charge within
10 miles (16 km).
Emergency Towing Service: Towing to the nearest
GMC dealer for warranty related disablements will
be covered.
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