1995 JEEP YJ gas type

(4) When checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
RADIATOR CAP. WITH A RAG, SQUEEZE RADIATOR
UPPER HOSE TO CHECK IF SYSTEM IS UNDER
PRESSURE. PLACE A RAG OVER THE CAP AND
WITHOUT PUSHING DOWN, ROTATE CAP
COUNTER-CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. AL-
LOW FLUID TO ESCAPE THROUGH OVERFLOW
HOSE INTO COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW
TANK. SQUEEZE RADIATOR UPPER HOSE TO DE-
TERMINE WHEN PRESSURE HAS BEEN RE-
LEASED. WHEN COOLANT AND STEAM STOP
BEING PUSHED INTO TANK AND SYSTEM PRES-
SURE DROPS, REMOVE RADIATOR CAP COM-
PLETELY.
PRESSURE TESTING RADIATOR CAPS
Remove cap from radiator. Be sure that sealing
surfaces are clean. Moisten rubber gasket with water
and install the cap on pressure tester (tool 7700 or
an equivalent) (Fig. 26).
Operate the tester pump and observe the gauge
pointer at its highest point. The cap release pressure
should be 83-to-110 kPa (12-to-16 psi). The cap is sat-
isfactory when the pressure holds steady. It is also
good if it holds pressure within the 83-to-110 kPa
(12-to-16 psi) range for 30 seconds or more. If the
pointer drops quickly, replace the cap.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks, which will not causecooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be re-
placed just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the pressure valve gasket on the
cap. Replace cap if the gasket is swollen, torn or
worn. Inspect the area around radiator filler neck for
white deposits that indicate a leaking cap.
RADIATORS
GENERAL INFORMATION
All radiators are down flow types except XJ models
equipped with 4.0L 6-cylinder engines. Radiators in
XJ models equipped with the 4.0L 6-cylinder engine
are the cross flow type. Plastic tanks are used on all
radiators.
CAUTION: Plastic tanks, while stronger than brass,
are subject to damage by impact, such as
wrenches.
If the plastic tank has been damaged, the plastic
tank and/or o-rings are available for service repair.
Tank replacement should be done by qualified per-
sonal with proper equipment.
RADIATOR COOLANT FLOW CHECK
The following procedure will determine if coolant is
flowing through the cooling system.
If engine is cold, idle engine until normal operating
temperature is reached. Then feel the upper radiator
hose. If hose is hot, the thermostat is open and water
is circulating through cooling system.
RADIATOR CLEANING
The radiator and air conditioning fins should be
cleaned when an accumulation of bugs, leaves etc.
has occurred. Clean radiator fins are necessary for
good heat transfer. With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
RADIATOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER
BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS, RADIATOR CAP, OR
LOOSEN THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH THE
SYSTEM HOT AND PRESSURIZED. SERIOUS
BURNS FROM THE COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If solution is
clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
Fig. 26 Pressure Testing Radiator Pressure
CapÐTypical
7 - 26 COOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURESJ

ENGINES
CONTENTS
page page
LUBRICATION SYSTEM................... 37
LUBRICATION SYSTEM................... 79
2.5L ENGINE SERVICE PROCEDURES....... 134.0L ENGINE SERVICE PROCEDURES....... 55
ENGINE DIAGNOSIS...................... 5
STANDARD SERVICE PROCEDURES......... 1
STANDARD SERVICE PROCEDURES
INDEX
page page
Engine Performance........................ 2
Form-In-Place Gaskets...................... 1
Honing Cylinder Bores...................... 2
Hydrostatic Lock........................... 4Measuring with Plastigage.................... 3
Repair Damaged or Worn Threads............. 4
Service Engine Assembly (Short Block).......... 4
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKETS
There are several places where form-in-place gas-
kets are used on the engine.DO NOT use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Care
must be taken when applying form-in-place gaskets.
Bead size, continuity and location are of great impor-
tance. Too thin a bead can result in leakage while too
much can result in spill-over. A continuous bead of
the proper width is essential to obtain a leak-free
joint.
Two types of form-in-place gasket materials are
used in the engine area (Mopar Silicone Rubber Ad-
hesive Sealant and Mopar Gasket Maker). Each have
different properties and cannot be used interchange-
ably.
MOPAR SILICONE RUBBER ADHESIVE
SEALANT
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, normally
black in color, is available in 3 ounce tubes. Moisture
in the air causes the sealant material to cure. This
material is normally used on flexible metal flanges.
It has a shelf life of a year and will not properly cure
if over aged. Always inspect the package for the ex-
piration date before use.
MOPAR GASKET MAKER
Mopar Gasket Maker, normally red in color, is
available in 6 cc tubes. This anaerobic type gasket
material cures in the absence of air when squeezedbetween smooth machined metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. DO NOT use
on flexible metal flanges.
SURFACE PREPARATION
Parts assembled with form-in-place gaskets may be
disassembled without unusual effort. In some in-
stances, it may be necessary to lightly tap the part
with a mallet or other suitable tool to break the seal
between the mating surfaces. A flat gasket scraper
may also be lightly tapped into the joint but care
must be taken not to damage the mating surfaces.
Scrape or wire brush all gasket surfaces to remove
all loose material. Inspect stamped parts to ensure
gasket rails are flat. Flatten rails with a hammer on
a flat plate, if required. Gasket surfaces must be free
of oil and dirt. Make sure the old gasket material is
removed from blind attaching holes.
GASKET APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket re-
quires care.
Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant should be
applied in a continuous bead approximately 3 mm
(0.12 inch) in diameter. All mounting holes must be
circled. For corner sealing,a3or6mm(1/8 or 1/4
inch) drop is placed in the center of the gasket con-
tact area. Uncured sealant may be removed with a
shop towel. Components should be torqued in place
while the sealant is still wet to the touch (within 10
JENGINES 9 - 1

minutes). The use of a locating dowel is recom-
mended during assembly to prevent smearing the
material off location.
Mopar Gasket Maker should be applied sparingly
to one gasket surface. The sealant diameter should
be 1.00 mm (0.04 inch) or less. Be certain the mate-
rial surrounds each mounting hole. Excess material
can easily be wiped off. Components should be
torqued in place within 15 minutes. The use of a lo-
cating dowel is recommended during assembly to pre-
vent smearing the material off location.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
To provide best vehicle performance and lowest ve-
hicle emissions, it is most important that the tune-up
be done accurately. Use the specifications listed on
the Vehicle Emission Control Information label found
on the engine compartment hood.
(1) Test battery specific gravity. Add water, if nec-
essary. Clean and tighten battery connections.
(2) Test cranking amperage draw (refer to Group
8B, Battery/Starter Service for the proper proce-
dures).
(3) Tighten the intake manifold bolts (refer to
Group 11, Exhaust System and Intake Manifold for
the proper specifications).
(4) Perform cylinder compression test:
(a) Check engine oil level and add oil, if neces-
sary.
(b) Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal
operating temperature.
(c) Select a route free from traffic and other
forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws and
briskly accelerate through the gears several times.
The higher engine speed may help clean out valve
seat deposits which can prevent accurate compres-
sion readings.
CAUTION: DO NOT overspeed the engine.
(d) Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark
plugs are being removed, check electrodes for ab-
normal firing indicatorsÐfouled, hot, oily, etc.
Record cylinder number of spark plug for future
reference.
(e) Disconnect coil wire from distributor and se-
cure to good ground to prevent a spark from start-
ing a fire.
(f) Be sure throttle blades are fully open during
the compression check.
(g) Insert compression gage adaptor into the
No.1 spark plug hole. Crank engine until maximum
pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure
as No.1 cylinder pressure.
(h) Repeat Step 4g for all remaining cylinders.
(i) Compression should not be less than 689 kPa
(100 psi) and not vary more than 172 kPa (25 psi)
from cylinder to cylinder.(j) If cylinder(s) have abnormally low compres-
sion pressures, repeat steps 4a through 4h.
(k) If the same cylinder(s) repeat an abnormally
low reading, it could indicate the existence of a
problem in the cylinder.
The recommended compression pressures are
to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine
problems. An engine should NOT be disassem-
bled to determine the cause of low compression
unless some malfunction is present.
(5) Clean or replace spark plugs as necessary. Ad-
just gap (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System for gap
adjustment and torque).
(6) Test resistance of spark plug cables (refer to
Group 8D, Ignition System).
(7) Inspect the primary wire. Test coil output volt-
age, primary and secondary resistance. Replace parts
as necessary (refer to Group 8D, Ignition System and
make necessary adjustment).
(8) Perform a combustion analysis.
(9) Test fuel pump for pressure (refer to Group 14,
Fuel System for the proper specifications).
(10) Inspect air filter element (refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance for the proper proce-
dure).
(11) Inspect crankcase ventilation system (refer to
Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for the proper
procedure).
(12) For emission controls refer to Group 25, Emis-
sion Controls System for service procedures.
(13) Inspect and adjust accessory belt drives (refer
to Group 7, Cooling System for the proper adjust-
ments).
(14) Road test vehicle as a final test.
HONING CYLINDER BORES
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels un-
der the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abra-
sive materials from entering the crankshaft area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823 equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring or scratches. Usually a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). 20-60 strokes, de-
pending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to
provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil
C-3501-3880 or a light honing oil available from ma-
jor oil distributors.
9 - 2 ENGINESJ

tor in the Component Removal/Installation section of
Group 8D, Ignition Systems.
(14) Install the distributor and ignition wires. Re-
fer to Distributor in the Component Removal/Instal-
lation section of Group 8D, Ignition Systems.
(15) Install the radiator or radiator and condenser,
if equipped with A/C.
(16) Fill the cooling system.
(17) Connect negative cable to battery.
CAMSHAFT PIN REPLACEMENT
REMOVAL
WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN THE RADIATOR
DRAIN COCK WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRES-
SURIZED BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOL-
ANT CAN OCCUR.
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain the radiator. DO NOT waste reusable
coolant. Drain the coolant into a clean container.
(3) Remove the fan and shroud.
(4) Disconnect the radiator overflow tube, radiator
hoses, automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes (if
equipped).
(5) Remove the radiator.
(6) If equipped with air conditioning:
CAUTION: DO NOT loosen or disconnect any air
conditioner system fittings. Move the condenser
and receiver/drier aside as a complete assembly.
(a) Remove the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Disconnect and remove the generator.
(c) Remove the A/C condenser attaching bolts
and move the condenser and receiver/drier assem-
bly up and out of the way.
(7) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(8) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper.
(9) Remove the timing case cover. Clean the gasket
material from the cover.
(10) Rotate crankshaft until the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark is closest to and on the center
line with the camshaft sprocket timing mark (Fig.
12).
(11) Remove camshaft sprocket retaining bolt.
(12) Remove the crankshaft oil slinger.
(13) Remove the sprockets and chain as an assem-
bly (Fig. 13).
CAUTION: The following procedural step must be
accomplished to prevent the camshaft from damag-
ing the rear camshaft plug during pin installation.
(14) Inspect the damaged camshaft pin.(15) If the pin is a spring-type pin, remove the bro-
ken pin by inserting a self-tapping screw into the pin
and carefully pulling the pin from the camshaft.
(16) If the pin is a dowel-type pin, center-punch it.
Ensure the exact center is located when center-
punching the pin.
CAUTION: Cover the opened oil pan area to prevent
metal chips from entering the pan.
(17) Drill into the pin center witha4mm(5/32
inch) drill bit.
(18) Insert a self-tapping screw into the drilled pin
and carefully pull the pin from the camshaft.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
The camshaft rotates within four steel-shelled, bab-
bitt-lined bearings that are pressed into the cylinder
block and then line reamed. The camshaft bearing
bores and bearing diameters are not the same size.
They are stepped down in 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) in-
crements from the front bearing (largest) to the rear
Fig. 12 Timing Chain Alignment
Fig. 13 Camshaft and Crankshaft Sprocket and
Chain
9 - 34 2.5L ENGINEJ

OIL PUMP
The positive-displacement gear-type oil pump is
driven by the distributor shaft, which is driven by a
gear on the camshaft. Oil is siphoned into the pump
through an inlet tube and strainer assembly that is
pressed into the pump body.
The pump incorporates a nonadjustable pressure
relief valve to limit maximum pressure to 517 kPa
(75 psi). In the relief position, the valve permits oil to
bypass through a passage in the pump body to the
inlet side of the pump.
Oil pump removal or replacement will not affect
the distributor timing because the distributor drive
gear remains in mesh with the camshaft gear.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
5).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer as-
sembly must be installed to assure an airtight seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the bolts to 23 Nzm
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan and gasket.
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
OIL PUMP PRESSURE
The MINIMUM oil pump pressure is 89.6 kPa (13
psi) at 600 rpm. The MAXIMUM oil pump pressure
is 255-517 kPa (37-75 psi) at 1600 rpm or more.
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(3) Remove the push rods.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head.
(5) Position the pistons one at a time near the bot-
tom of the stroke. Use a ridge reamer to remove the
ridge from the top end of the cylinder walls. Use a
protective cloth to collect the cuttings.
(6) Raise the vehicle.
(7) Drain the engine oil.
(8) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(9) Remove the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts. Mark the caps and rods with the cylinder bore
location. The connecting rods and caps are stamped
with a two letter combination (Fig. 1).
(10) Lower the vehicle until it is about 2 feet from
the floor.
CAUTION: Ensure that the connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose, slipped over the
rod bolts will provide protection during removal.
(11) Have an assistant push the piston and con-
necting rod assemblies up and through the top of the
cylinder bores (Fig. 2).
INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Figs. 3 and 4). Check the bear-
Fig. 5 Oil Pump Assembly
Fig. 1 Stamped Connecting Rods and Caps
J2.5L ENGINE 9 - 39

(3) Remove the fan and shroud.
(4) Disconnect the radiator overflow tube, radiator
hoses, automatic transmission fluid cooler pipes (if
equipped).
(5) Remove the radiator.
(6) If equipped with air conditioning:
CAUTION: DO NOT loosen or disconnect any air
conditioner system fittings. Move the condenser
and receiver/drier aside as a complete assembly.
(a) Remove the A/C compressor serpentine drive
belt idler pulley.
(b) Disconnect and remove the generator.
(c) Remove the A/C condenser attaching bolts
and move the condenser and receiver/drier assem-
bly up and out of the way.
(7) Remove the serpentine drive belt.
(8) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper.
(9) Remove the timing case cover. Clean the gasket
material from the cover.
(10) Remove the thrust pin and tension spring
from the preload bolt head.
(11) Rotate crankshaft until the crankshaft
sprocket timing mark is closest to and on the center
line with the camshaft sprocket timing mark (Fig.
10).
(12) Remove the camshaft sprocket preload retain-
ing bolt and washer.
(13) Remove the crankshaft oil slinger.
(14) Remove the sprockets and chain as an assem-
bly.
CAUTION: The following procedural step must be
accomplished to prevent the camshaft from damag-
ing the rear camshaft plug during pin installation.
(15) Inspect the damaged camshaft pin.
(16) If the pin is a spring-type pin, remove the bro-
ken pin by inserting a self-tapping screw into the pin
and carefully pulling the pin from the camshaft.(17) If the pin is a dowel-type pin, center-punch it.
Ensure the exact center is located when center-
punching the pin.
CAUTION: Cover the opened oil pan area to prevent
metal chips from entering the pan.
(18) Drill into the pin center witha4mm(5/32
inch) drill bit.
(19) Insert a self-tapping screw into the drilled pin
and carefully pull the pin from the camshaft.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
The camshaft rotates within four steel-shelled, bab-
bitt-lined bearings that are pressed into the cylinder
block and then line reamed. The camshaft bearing
bores and bearing diameters are not the same size.
They are stepped down in 0.254 mm (0.010 inch) in-
crements from the front bearing (largest) to the rear
bearing (smallest). This permits easier removal and
installation of the camshaft. The camshaft bearings
are pressure lubricated.
It is not advisable to attempt to replace cam-
shaft bearings unless special removal and in-
stallation tools are available.
Camshaft end play is maintained by the load
placed on the camshaft by the sprocket preload bolt
tension spring and thrust pin.
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean the camshaft pin hole.
(2) Compress the center of the replacement spring
pin with vise grips.
(3) Carefully drive the pin into the camshaft pin
hole until it is seated.
(4) Install the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft
sprocket and timing chain with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 10).
(5) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, turn the crankshaft to position the camshaft
sprocket timing mark as shown in Fig. 11. Count the
number of chain pins between the timing marks of
both sprockets. There must be 15 pins.
(6) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(7) Tighten the camshaft sprocket preload bolt to
108 Nzm (80 ft. lbs.) torque.
(8) Check the valve timing.
(9) Lubricate the tension spring, the thrust pin
and the pin bore in the preload bolt with Mopar En-
gine Oil Supplement, or equivalent. Install the spring
and thrust pin in the preload bolt head.
(10) Coat both sides of the replacement timing case
cover gasket with gasket sealer. Applya3mm(1/8
inch) bead of Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant, or equivalent to the joint formed at the oil pan
and cylinder block.
(11) Position the timing case cover on the oil pan
gasket and the cylinder block.
Fig. 10 Timing Chain AlignmentÐTypical
9 - 76 4.0L ENGINEJ

OIL PUMP
A gear-type oil pump is mounted at the underside
of the cylinder block opposite the No.4 main bearing.
The pump incorporates a nonadjustable pressure
relief valve to limit maximum pressure to 517 kPa
(75 psi). In the relief position, the valve permits oil to
bypass through a passage in the pump body to the
inlet side of the pump.
Oil pump removal or replacement will not affect
the distributor timing because the distributor drive
gear remains in mesh with the camshaft gear.
REMOVAL
(1) Drain the engine oil.
(2) Remove the oil pan.
(3) Remove the pump-to-cylinder block attaching
bolts. Remove the pump assembly with gasket (Fig.
5).
CAUTION: If the oil pump is not to be serviced, DO
NOT disturb position of oil inlet tube and strainer
assembly in pump body. If the tube is moved within
the pump body, a replacement tube and strainer as-
sembly must be installed to assure an airtight seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the oil pump on the cylinder block using
a replacement gasket. Tighten the bolts to 23 Nzm
(17 ft. lbs.) torque.
(2) Install the oil pan.
(3) Fill the oil pan with oil to the specified level.
OIL PUMP PRESSURE
The MINIMUM oil pump pressure is 89.6 kPa (13
psi) at 600 rpm. The MAXIMUM oil pump pressure
is 255-517 kPa (37-75 psi) at 1600 rpm or more.
PISTONS AND CONNECTING RODS
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the engine cylinder head cover.
(2) Remove the rocker arms, bridges and pivots.
(3) Remove the push rods.
(4) Remove the engine cylinder head.
(5) Position the pistons one at a time near the bot-
tom of the stroke. Use a ridge reamer to remove the
ridge from the top end of the cylinder walls. Use a
protective cloth to collect the cuttings.
(6) Raise the vehicle.
(7) Drain the engine oil.
(8) Remove the oil pan and gasket.
(9) Remove the connecting rod bearing caps and in-
serts. Mark the caps and rods with the cylinder bore
location. The connecting rods and caps are stamped
with a two letter combination (Fig. 1).
(10) Lower the vehicle until it is about 2 feet from
the floor.
CAUTION: Ensure that the connecting rod bolts DO
NOT scratch the crankshaft journals or cylinder
walls. Short pieces of rubber hose, slipped over the
rod bolts will provide protection during removal.
(11) Have an assistant push the piston and con-
necting rod assemblies up and through the top of the
cylinder bores (Fig. 2).
INSPECTIONÐCONNECTING ROD
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS
Inspect the connecting rod bearings for scoring and
bent alignment tabs (Figs. 3 and 4). Check the bear-
Fig. 5 Oil Pump Assembly
Fig. 1 Stamped Connecting Rods and Caps
J4.0L ENGINE 9 - 81

EXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD
CONTENTS
page page
EXHAUST SYSTEM....................... 1
EXHAUST SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS............. 2SERVICE PROCEDURES................... 3
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS................ 10
EXHAUST SYSTEM
GENERAL INFORMATION
The basic exhaust system consists of an engine ex-
haust manifold, exhaust pipe with oxygen sensor, cat-
alytic converter, exhaust heat shield(s), muffler and
exhaust tailpipe (Fig. 1).
The exhaust system uses a single muffler with a
single monolithic-type catalytic converter.
The 4.0L engines use a seal between the engine ex-
haust manifold and exhaust pipe to assure a tight
seal and strain free connections.
The exhaust system must be properly aligned to
prevent stress, leakage and body contact. If the sys-
tem contacts any body panel, it may amplify objec-tionable noises originating from the engine or body.
When inspecting an exhaust system, critically in-
spect for cracked or loose joints, stripped screw or
bolt threads, corrosion damage and worn, cracked or
broken hangers. Replace all components that are
badly corroded or damaged. DO NOT attempt to re-
pair.
When replacement is required, use original equip-
ment parts (or their equivalent). This will assure
proper alignment and provide acceptable exhaust
noise levels.
CAUTION: Avoid application of rust prevention com-
pounds or undercoating materials to exhaust sys-
tem floor pan exhaust heat shields. Light overspray
near the edges is permitted. Application of coating
will result in excessive floor pan temperatures and
objectionable fumes.
CATALYTIC CONVERTER
The stainless steel catalytic converter body is de-
signed to last the life of the vehicle. Excessive heat
can result in bulging or other distortion, but exces-
sive heat will not be the fault of the converter. If un-
burned fuel enters the converter, overheating may
occur. If a converter is heat-damaged, correct the
cause of the damage at the same time the converter
is replaced. Also, inspect all other components of the
exhaust system for heat damage.
Unleaded gasoline must be used to avoid contami-
nating the catalyst core.
EXHAUST HEAT SHIELDS
Exhaust heat shields are needed to protect both the
vehicle and the environment from the high tempera-
tures developed by the catalytic converter. The cata-
lytic converter releases additional heat into the
exhaust system. Under severe operating conditions,
the temperature increases in the area of the con-
Fig. 1 Typical Exhaust System
JEXHAUST SYSTEM AND INTAKE MANIFOLD 11 - 1