1995 JEEP XJ engine

AXLE SHAFT, SEAL AND BEARING SERVICE
CAUTION: When rear axle service is necessary,
both rear wheels must be raised off the surface so
that they are free to rotate. Be cautious when the
tires are being rotated by the engine or by other
means.
AXLE SHAFT REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the wheel and tire.
(3) Remove the brake drum.
(4) Clean all the foreign material from housing
cover area.
(5) Loosen the housing cover bolts and drain the
lubricant from the housing. Remove the housing
cover.
(6) Rotate the differential case so that the pinion
mate gear shaft lock screw is accessible. Remove the
lock screw and the pinion mate gear shaft from the
case (Fig. 3).
(7) Push the axle shaft in toward the center of the
vehicle. Remove the axle shaft C-clip lock from the
axle shaft (Fig. 4).
(8) Remove the axle shaft. Use care to prevent
damage to the axle shaft bearing, which will remain
in the axle shaft tube.
(9) Inspect the axle shaft bearing contact surface
area for indications of brinelling, spalling, and pit-
ting.
If any of these conditions exist, the axle shaft
and bearing should be replaced. Normal bear-ing contact on the shaft will be a dull gray and
it could appear to be lightly dented.
(10) If any of these conditions exist, the axle shaft
and bearing must be replaced.
The normal appearance (from roller bearing
contact) will be a dull gray surface area that
could appear slightly dented.
AXLE SHAFT SEAL AND BEARING REMOVAL
(1) Remove the axle shaft seal with a small pry
bar.
(2) Remove the bearing if it appears damaged or
the axle shaft shows any of the conditions described
above.
(3) Remove the bearing with Remover C-4167 (Fig.
5). Attach Slide Hammer 7420 and Adapter 7420-8 to
the end of the removal tool.
(4) Inspect the axle shaft seal surface and tube
bore for roughness and burrs.Polish each axle
shaft with No. 600 crocus cloth. This can re-
move slight surface damage. Do not reduce the
diameter of the axle shaft seal contact surface.
When polishing, the crocus cloth should be
moved around the circumference of the shaft
(not in-line with the shaft).
Fig. 2 Typical Housing Cover With Sealant
Fig. 3 Pinion Mate Shaft Lock Screw
Fig. 4 Axle Shaft C-Clip Lock
3 - 32 REAR SUSPENSION AND AXLESJ

TRAC-LOK DIFFERENTIAL
OPERATION
In a conventional differential, the torque applied to
the ring gear is transmitted to the axle shafts through
the differential gears. During normal operation, the
torque transmitted to each wheel is equal at all times.
However, if one wheel spins, the opposite wheel will
generate only as much torque as the spinning wheel.
In the Trac-Lok differential, part of the ring gear
torque is transmitted through clutch packs. The clutch
packs contain multiple disc. The clutch will have radial
grooves on the plates, and concentric grooves on the
discs or bonded fiber material which is smooth.
In operation, the Trac-Lok clutches are engaged by
two concurrent forces. The first being preload force ex-
erted through Belleville spring washers. The second is
from separating forces generated by the side gears (Fig.
1).
The Trac-Lok design provides the normal differential
action needed for turning corners. It also provides for
the transmission of equal torque to both wheels when
driving straight ahead. When one wheel loses traction,
the clutch packs transfer torque to the wheel having the
most traction. Trac-lok differentials resist wheel spin on
bumpy roads. It also provides more pulling power when
one wheel loses traction. Pulling power is continuous
until both wheels lose traction. If both wheels slip due
to unequal traction, Trac-Lok operation is normal. In ex-
treme cases of differences of traction, the wheel with
the least traction may spin. This occurs after the Trac-
Lok has transferred as much torque as possible to the
non-spinning wheel.
NOISE DIAGNOSIS
If chatter occurs when turning corners, the most
probable cause is incorrect or contaminated lubri-
cant. Before removing the Trac-Lok unit for repair,
drain, flush and refill the axle with the specified lu-
bricant. Refer to Lubricant change in this Group.
A container of Trac-Lok Lubricant (friction modi-
fier) should be added after.
Vehicles with a limited slip differential should be
road tested by making 10 to 12 slow figure-eight
turns. This maneuver will pump the lubricant
through the clutch discs.
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for
additional information.
DIFFERENTIAL TEST
WARNING: WHEN SERVICING VEHICLES WITH A
LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL DO NOT USE THE EN-
GINE TO TURN THE AXLE AND WHEELS. BOTH
REAR WHEELS MUST BE RAISED AND THE VEHI-
CLE SUPPORTED. A LIMITED SLIP AXLE CAN EX-
ERT ENOUGH FORCE (IF ONE WHEEL IS IN
CONTACT WITH THE SURFACE) TO CAUSE THE
VEHICLE TO MOVE.
The differential can be tested without removing the
differential case by measuring rotating torque. Make
sure brakes are not dragging during this measure-
ment.
(1) Engine off, transmission in neutral, and park-
ing brake off.
(2) Place blocks in front and rear of both front
wheels.
(3) Jack up one rear wheel until it is completely off
the ground.
(4) Remove wheel and bolt special tool to studs.
Fig. 1 Limited Slip Differential OperationÐBoth
Wheels Driving
JREAR SUSPENSION AND AXLES 3 - 45

hand lever. Also note if vehicle was being operated
with parking brake partially applied (this will cause
red light to remain on).
(7) Check brake pedal operation. Verify that pedal
does not bind and has adequate free play. If pedal
lacks free play, check pedal and power booster for be-
ing loose or for bind condition. Do not road test until
condition is corrected.
(8) If components inspected look OK, road test ve-
hicle.
ROAD TESTING
(1) If amber warning light is on, problem is with
antilock system component. Refer to antilock diagno-
sis section.
(2) If red warning light is not on, proceed to step
(4).
(3) If red warning light is on, proceed as follows:
(a) See if parking brakes are applied. If brakes
are applied, release them and proceed to step (4).
(b) Note if brake pedal is abnormally low. If
pedal is definitely low and red light is still on,
check front/rear hydraulic circuits for leak.Do not
road test. Inspect and repair as needed.
(4) Check brake pedal response with transmission
in Neutral and engine running. Pedal should remain
firm under steady foot pressure. If pedal falls away,
do not road test as problem is in master cylinder, or
HCU on ABS models. If pedal holds firm, proceed to
next step.
(5) During road test, make normal and firm brake
stops in 25-35 mph range. Note faulty brake opera-
tion such as hard pedal, pull, grab, drag, noise, fade,
etc.
(6) Return to shop and inspect brake components.
Refer to inspection and diagnosis information.
COMPONENT INSPECTION
Fluid leak points and dragging brake units can
usually be located without removing any components.
The area around a leak point will be wet with fluid.
The components at a dragging brake unit (wheel,
tire, rotor) will be quite warm or hot to the touch.
Other brake problem conditions will require compo-
nent removal for proper inspection. Raise the vehicle
and remove the necessary wheels for better visual ac-
cess.
During component inspection, pay particular atten-
tion to heavily rusted/corroded brake components
(e.g. rotors, caliper pistons, brake return/holddown
springs, support plates, etc.).
Heavy accumulations of rust may be covering se-
vere damage to a brake component. It is wise to re-
move surface rust in order to accurately determine
the depth of rust penetration and damage. Light sur-
face rust is fairly normal and not a major concern (as
long as it is removed). However, heavy rust buildup,especially on high mileage vehicles may cover struc-
tural damage to such important components as
brakelines, rotors, support plates, and brake boost-
ers. Refer to the wheel brake service procedures in
this group for more information.
BRAKE WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
The red brake warning light will illuminate under
the following conditions:
²for 2-3 seconds at startup as part of normal bulb
check
²when parking brakes are applied
²low pedal caused by leak in front/rear brake hy-
draulic circuit
If the red light remains on after startup, first ver-
ify that the parking brakes are fully released. Then
check pedal action and fluid level. A red light plus
low pedal indicates the pressure differential switch
and valve have been actuated due to a system leak.
On models with ABS brakes, the amber warning
light only illuminates when an ABS malfunction has
occurred. The ABS light operates independently of
the red warning light.
PEDAL FALLS AWAY
A brake pedal that falls away under steady foot
pressure is generally the result of a system leak. The
leak point could be at a brakeline, fitting, hose,
wheel cylinder, or caliper. Internal leakage in the
master cylinder caused by worn or damaged piston
cups, may also be the problem cause.
If leakage is severe, fluid will be evident at or
around the leaking component. However internal
leakage in the master cylinder will not be physically
evident. Refer to the cylinder test procedure at the
end of this section.
LOW PEDAL
If a low pedal is experienced, pump the pedal sev-
eral times. If the pedal comes back up, worn lining
and worn rotors or drums are the most likely causes.
However, if the pedal remains low and the red warn-
ing light is on, the likely cause is a leak in the hy-
draulic system.
A decrease in master cylinder fluid level may only
be the result of normal lining wear. Fluid level will
drop somewhat as lining wear occurs. It is a result of
the outward movement of caliper and wheel cylinder
pistons to compensate for normal wear.
SPONGY PEDAL
Air in the system is the usual cause of a spongy
pedal. Brake drums machined way beyond allowable
limits (too thin), or substandard brake lines and
hoses can also cause a condition similar to a spongy
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 5

pedal. The proper course of action is to bleed the sys-
tem, or replace thin drums and suspect quality brake
lines and hoses.
HARD PEDAL OR HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
A hard pedal or high pedal effort may be due to lin-
ing that is water soaked, contaminated, glazed, or
badly worn. The power booster or check valve could
also be faulty. Test the booster and valve as described
in this section.
BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only. It is a
product of incomplete brakeshoe release. Drag can be
minor or severe enough to overheat the linings, ro-
tors and drums. A drag condition also worsens as
temperature of the brake parts increases.
Brake drag also has a direct effect on fuel economy.
If undetected, minor brake drag can be misdiagnosed
as an engine or transmission/torque converter prob-
lem.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat/cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In se-
vere cases, the lining may generate smoke as it chars
from overheating.
An additional cause of drag involves the use of in-
correct length caliper mounting bolts. Bolts that are
too long can cause a partial apply condition. The cor-
rect caliper bolts have a shank length of 67 mm
(2.637 in.), plus or minus 0.6 mm (0.0236 in.). Refer
to the Disc Brake service section for more detail on
caliper bolt dimensions and identification.
Some common causes of brake drag are:
²loose or damaged wheel bearing
²seized or sticking caliper or wheel cylinder piston
²caliper binding on bolts or slide surfaces
²wrong length caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper mounting bracket
²distorted rotor, brake drum, or shoes
²brakeshoes binding on worn/damaged support
plates
²severely rusted/corroded components
²misassembled components.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem may
be related to a blocked master cylinder compensatorport or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).
The condition will worsen as brake temperature in-
creases.
The brakelight switch can also be a cause of drag.
An improperly mounted or adjusted brakelight
switch can prevent full brake pedal return. The re-
sult will be the same as if the master cylinder com-
pensator ports are blocked. The brakes would be
partially applied causing drag.
BRAKE FADE
Brake fade is a product of overheating caused by
brake drag. However, overheating and subsequent
fade can also be caused by riding the brake pedal,
making repeated high deceleration stops in a short
time span, or constant braking on steep roads. Refer
to the Brake Drag information in this section for
causes.
PEDAL PULSATION (NON-ABS BRAKES ONLY)
Pedal pulsation is caused by parts that are loose,
or beyond tolerance limits. This type of pulsation is
constant and will occur every time the brakes are ap-
plied.
Disc brake rotors with excessive lateral runout or
thickness variation, or out of round brake drums are
the primary causes of pulsation.
On vehicles with ABS brakes, remember that pedal
pulsation is normal during antilock mode brake
stops. If pulsation occurs during light to moderate
brake stops, a standard brake part is either loose, or
worn beyond tolerance.
BRAKE PULL
A front pull condition could be the result of:
²contaminated lining in one caliper
²seized caliper piston
²binding caliper
²wrong caliper mounting bolts (too long)
²loose caliper
²loose or corroded mounting bolts
²improper brakeshoes
²damaged rotor
²incorrect wheel bearing adjustment (at one wheel)
A worn, damaged wheel bearing or suspension com-
ponent are further causes of pull. A damaged front
tire (bruised, ply separation) can also cause pull.
Wrong caliper bolts (too long) will cause a partial ap-
ply condition and pull if only one caliper is involved.
A common and frequently misdiagnosed pull condi-
tion is where direction of pull changes after a few
stops. The cause is a combination of brake drag fol-
lowed by fade at the dragging brake unit.
As the dragging brake overheats, efficiency is so re-
duced that fade occurs. If the opposite brake unit is
still functioning normally, its braking effect is magni-
5 - 6 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSISJ

fied. This causes pull to switch direction in favor of
the brake unit that is functioning normally.
When diagnosing a change in pull condition, re-
member that pull will return to the original direction
if the dragging brake unit is allowed to cool down
(and is not seriously damaged).
REAR BRAKE GRAB
Rear grab (or pull) is usually caused by contami-
nated lining, bent or binding shoes and support
plates, or improperly assembled components. This is
particularly true when only one rear wheel is in-
volved. However, when both rear wheels are affected,
the master cylinder could be at fault.
BRAKES DO NOT HOLD AFTER DRIVING THROUGH
DEEP WATER PUDDLES
This condition is caused by water soaked lining. If
the lining is only wet, it can be dried by driving with
the brakes lightly applied for a mile or two. However,
if the lining is both wet and dirty, disassembly and
cleaning will be necessary.
CONTAMINATED BRAKELINING
Brakelining contaminated by water is salvageable.
The lining can either be air dried or dried using heat.
In cases where brakelining is contaminated by oil,
grease, or brake fluid, the lining should be replaced.
Replacement is especially necessary when fluids/lu-
bricants have actually soaked into the lining mate-
rial. However, grease or dirt that gets onto the lining
surface (from handling) during brake repairs, can be
cleaned off. Spray the lining surface clean with Mo-
par brake cleaner.
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
There are two basic causes of brake fluid contami-
nation. The first involves allowing dirt, debris, or
other materials to enter the cylinder reservoirs when
the cover is off. The second involves adding non-rec-
ommended fluids to the cylinder reservoirs.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction gun
but only if the brakes have not been applied. If the
brakes are applied after contamination, system flush-
ing will be required. The master cylinder may also
have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston seals
replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reservoir
compensator/return ports can cause brake drag by re-
stricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid may appear discolored, milky, oily looking, or
foamy. However, remember that brake fluid will
darken in time and occasionally be cloudy in appear-ance. These are normal conditions and should not be
mistaken for contamination.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Factory installed brakelining is made from as-
bestos free materials. These materials have dif-
ferent operating characteristics than previous
lining material. Under certain conditions, as-
bestos free lining may generate some squeak,
groan or chirp noise. This noise is considered
normal and does not indicate a problem. The
only time inspection is necessary, is when noise
becomes constant or when grinding, scraping
noises occur.
Constant brake squeak or squeal may be due to lin-
ings that are wet or contaminated with brake fluid,
grease, or oil. Glazed linings, rotors/drums with hard
spots, and dirt/foreign material embedded in the
brake lining also cause squeak. Loud squeak, squeal,
scraping, or grinding sounds are a sign of severely
worn brake lining. If the lining has worn completely
through in spots, metal-to-metal contact occurs.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. However,
calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can generate
a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out, im-
properly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.
Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 7

produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe bruise
or ply separation can cause vibration and pull. The
pull will be magnified when braking.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE MALFUNCTIONS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a ca-
ble tensioner mechanism. The cable tensioner,
once adjusted at the factory, will not need further
attention under normal circumstances. There are
only two instances when adjustment is required.
The first is when a new tensioner, or cables have
been installed. And the second, is when the ten-
sioner and cables are disconnected for access to
other brake components.
Parking Brake Switch And Warning Light Illumination
The parking brake switch on the lever, or foot
pedal, is in circuit with the red warning light. The
switch will illuminate the red light only when the
parking brakes are applied. If the light remains on
after parking brake release, the switch or wires are
faulty, or cable tensioner adjustment is incorrect.
If the red light comes on while the vehicle is in mo-
tion and brake pedal height decreases, a fault has oc-
curred in the front or rear brake hydraulic system.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum
wear; oversize drums; or inoperative shoe ad-
juster components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes de-
scribed as a loose lever or too loose condition), is the re-
sult of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper brakeshoe
adjustment, or incorrectly assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
assembled, they will not function. In addition, since
the adjuster mechanism only works during reverse
stops, it is important that complete stops be made.
The adjuster mechanism does not operate when roll-
ing stops are made in reverse. The vehicle must be
brought to a complete halt before the adjuster lever
will turn the adjuster screw.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold, will
most probably be due to a wheel brake component.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²rear brakeshoe wear or adjuster problem
²rear brake drum wear
²brake drums machined beyond allowable diameter
(oversize)
²parking brake front cable not secured to lever
²parking brake rear cable seized
²parking brake strut reversed
²parking brake strut not seated in both shoes
²parking brake lever not seated in secondary shoe
²parking brake lever or brakeshoe bind on support
plate
²brakeshoes reversed
²adjuster screws seized
²adjuster screws reversed
²holddown or return springs misassembled or lack
tension
²wheel cylinder pistons seized
Brake drums that are machined oversize are diffi-
cult to identify without inspection. If oversize drums
are suspected, diameter of the braking surface will
have to be checked with an accurate drum gauge.
Oversize drums will cause low brake pedal and lack
of parking brake holding ability.
Improper parking brake strut and lever installation
will result in unsatisfactory parking brake operation.
Intermixing the adjuster screws will cause drag, bind
and pull along with poor parking brake operation.
Parking brake adjustment and parts replacement pro-
cedures are described in the Parking Brake section.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure.
(a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty due to internal leakage.
Overhaul or replace cylinder.
(5) Start engine and note pedal action.
(a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6).
(b) If no pedal action is discernible, or hard pedal
is noted, power booster or vacuum check valve is
faulty. Install known good check valve and repeat
steps (2) through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re-
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
5 - 8 SERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSISJ

(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, perform booster and check valve vac-
uum tests.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and seal from booster (Fig.
1).
(3) Hand operated vacuum pump can be used for
test (Fig. 2).
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 1).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates any vacuum loss, valve is faulty and must
be replaced.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect a vacuum gauge to the booster check
valve with a short length of hose and tee fitting (Fig.
3).(2) Start and run engine at idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Pinch hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve (Fig. 3).
(4) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(5) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
Fig. 1 Typical Vacuum Check Valve And Seal
Fig. 2 Typical Hand Operated Vacuum Pump
Fig. 3 Booster Vacuum Test Connections
JSERVICE BRAKE DIAGNOSIS 5 - 9

Fig. 6 Brakeline Routing (YJ With 4-Cylinder Engine)
Fig. 7 Rear Brakeline Routing (XJ With ABS)
JBRAKE FLUIDÐBRAKE BLEEDINGÐBRAKELINES AND HOSES 5 - 13