1994 JEEP CHEROKEE engine

when the cover is off. The second involves adding to,
or filling the cylinder reservoirs with a non-recom-
mended fluid.
Brake fluid contaminated with only dirt, or debris
usually retains a normal appearance. In some cases,
the foreign material will remain suspended in the
fluid and be visible. The fluid and foreign material
can be removed from the reservoir with a suction
gun but only if the brakes have not been applied. If
the brakes are applied after contamination, system
flushing will be required. The master cylinder may
also have to be disassembled, cleaned and the piston
seals replaced. Foreign material lodged in the reser-
voir compensator/return ports can cause brake drag
by restricting fluid return after brake application.
Brake fluid contaminated by a non-recommended
fluid will usually be discolored, milky, oily looking,
or foamy. In some cases, it may even appear as if the
fluid contains sludge.However, remember that
brake fluid will darken in time and occasionally
be cloudy in appearance. These are normal con-
ditions and should not be mistaken for contami-
nation.
If some type of oil has been added to the system,
the fluid will separate into distinct layers. To verify
this, drain off a sample with a clean suction gun.
Then pour the sample into a glass container and ob-
serve fluid action. If the fluid separates into distinct
layers, it is definitely contaminated.
The only real correction for contamination by non-
recommended fluid is to flush the entire hydraulic
system and replace all the seals.
BRAKE NOISE
Squeak/Squeal
Brake squeak or squeal may be due to linings that
are wet or contaminated with brake fluid, grease, or
oil. Glazed linings and rotors with hard spots can
also contribute to squeak. Dirt and foreign material
embedded in the brake lining will also cause squeak/
squeal.
A very loud squeak or squeal is frequently a sign
of severely worn brake lining. If the lining has worn
through to the brakeshoes in spots, metal-to-metal
contact occurs. If the condition is allowed to continue,
rotors can become so scored that replacement is nec-
essary.
Thump/Clunk
Thumping or clunk noises during braking are fre-
quentlynotcaused by brake components. In many
cases, such noises are caused by loose or damaged
steering, suspension, or engine components. How-
ever, calipers that bind on the slide surfaces can gen-
erate a thump or clunk noise. In addition, worn out,
improperly adjusted, or improperly assembled rear
brakeshoes can also produce a thump noise.Chatter/Shudder
Brake chatter, or shudder is usually caused by
loose or worn components, or glazed/burnt lining. Ro-
tors with hard spots can also contribute to chatter.
Additional causes of chatter are out of tolerance ro-
tors, brake lining not securely attached to the shoes,
loose wheel bearings and contaminated brake lining.
BRAKELINING CONTAMINATION
Brakelining contamination is usually a product of
leaking calipers or wheel cylinders, driving through
deep water puddles, or lining that has become cov-
ered with grease and grit during repair.
WHEEL AND TIRE PROBLEMS
Some conditions attributed to brake components
may actually be caused by a wheel or tire problem.
A damaged wheel can cause shudder, vibration and
pull. A worn or damaged tire can also cause pull.
Severely worn tires with very little tread left can
produce a condition similar to grab as the tire loses
and recovers traction.
Flat-spotted tires can cause vibration and wheel
tramp and generate shudder during brake operation.
A tire with internal damage such as a severe
bruise or ply separation can cause pull and vibration.
DIAGNOSING PARKING BRAKE PROBLEMS
Adjustment Mechanism
Parking brake adjustment is controlled by a
cable tensioner mechanism. This applies to 1991
through 1994 YJ models and 1992 and later XJ
models. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at
the factory, will not need further adjustment un-
der normal circumstances. There are only two
instances when adjustment is required. The first
is when a new tensioner, or cables have been in-
stalled. And the second, is when the tensioner
and cables are disconnected for access to other
brake components.
Parking Brake problem Causes
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/wont
hold), can be traced to a drum brake component.
The leading cause of improper parking brake
operation, is excessive clearance between the
brakeshoes and the drum surface. Excessive
clearance is a result of: lining and/or drum wear;
oversize drums; or inoperative shoe adjuster
components.
Excessive parking brake lever travel (sometimes
described as a loose lever or too loose condition), is
the result of worn brakeshoes/drums, improper
brakeshoe adjustment, or mis-assembled brake parts.
A ``too loose'' condition can also be caused by inop-
erative brakeshoe adjusters. If the adjusters are mis-
5 - 10 BRAKESJ

assembled, they will not function. In addition, since
the adjuster mechanism only works during reverse
stops, it is important that complete stops be made.
The adjuster mechanism does not operate when roll-
ing stops are made in reverse. The vehicle must be
brought to a complete halt before the adjuster lever
will turn the adjuster screw.
A condition where the parking brakes do not hold,
will most probably be due to a wheel brake compo-
nent.
Items to look for when diagnosing a parking brake
problem, are:
²rear brakeshoe wear
²rear brakedrum wear
²brakedrums machined beyond allowable diameter
(oversize)
²parking brake front cable not secured to lever
²parking brake rear cable seized
²parking brake strut reversed
²parking brake strut not seated in both shoes
²parking brake lever not seated in secondary shoe
²parking brake lever or brakeshoe bind on support
plate
²brakeshoes reversed
²adjuster screws seized
²adjuster screws reversed
²holddown or return springs misassembled or lack
tension
²wheel cylinder pistons seized
Brake drums that are machined oversize are diffi-
cult to identify. If oversize drums are suspected, the
diameter of the braking surface will have to be
checked with an accurate drum gauge. Oversize
drums will cause low brake pedal and lack of park-
ing brake holding ability.
Improper parking brake strut and lever installa-
tion will result in unsatisfactory parking brake oper-
ation. Intermixing the adjuster screws will cause
drag, bind and pull along with poor parking brake
operation.
Parking brake adjustment and parts replacement
procedures are described in the Parking Brake sec-
tion.
MASTER CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER TEST
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. Hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.
(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure.
(a) If pedal holds firm, proceed to step (5).
(b) If pedal does not hold firm and falls away,
master cylinder is faulty (internal leakage). Over-
haul or replace cylinder.(5) Start engine and note pedal action.
(a) If pedal falls away slightly under light foot
pressure then holds firm, proceed to step (6).
(b) If no pedal action is discernible, power
booster or vacuum check valve is faulty. Install
known good check valve and repeat steps (2)
through (5).
(6) Rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows: Re-
lease brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close throttle and immediately turn off ignition.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more
vacuum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist
is not provided, perform booster and check valve vac-
uum tests.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster (Fig. 1).
(3) Hand operated vacuum pump can be used for
test (Fig. 2).
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 1).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates any vacuum loss, valve is faulty and must
be replaced.
Fig. 1 Vacuum Check Valve And Seal (Typical)
Fig. 2 Hand Operated Vacuum Pump (Typical)
JBRAKES 5 - 11

POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect a vacuum gauge to the booster check
valve with a short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig.
3).
(2) Start and run engine at idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve (Fig. 3).
(4) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(5) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
Fig. 3 Booster Vacuum Test Connections
5 - 12 BRAKESJ

POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
INDEX
page page
Power Brake Booster Installation............. 23
Power Brake Booster Operation............. 22Power Brake Booster Removal.............. 22
Service Information....................... 22
SERVICE INFORMATION
The power brake booster is not a serviceable com-
ponent. If a booster malfunction occurs, the booster
must be replaced as an assembly. The booster (Figs.
1 and 2), is attached to the dash panel and pedal sup-
port.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER OPERATION
Booster Components
The booster assembly consists of a housing divided
into separate chambers by an internal diaphragm.The outer edge of the diaphragm is attached to the
booster housing. The diaphragm is in turn, connected
to the booster push rod.
Two push rods are used to operate the booster. One
push rod connects the booster to the brake pedal. The
second push rod (at the forward end of the housing),
strokes the master cylinder pistons. The rear push
rod is connected to the two diaphragms in the booster
housing.
The atmospheric inlet valve is opened and closed
by the push rod connected to the brake pedal. The
booster vacuum supply is through a hose attached to
a fitting on the intake manifold. The hose is con-
nected to a vacuum check valve in the booster hous-
ing. The check valve is a one-way device that
prevents vacuum leak back.
How Brake Boost Is Generated
Power assist is generated by utilizing the pressure
differential between normal atmospheric pressure
and a vacuum. The vacuum needed for booster oper-
ation is taken directly from the engine intake mani-
fold. The entry point for atmospheric pressure is
through an inlet valve at the rear of the housing.
The forward portion of the booster housing (area in
front of the two diaphragms), is exposed to manifold
vacuum. The rear portion (area behind the dia-
phragms), is exposed to normal atmospheric pressure
of 101.3 kilopascals (14.7 pounds/square in.).
Pressing the brake pedal causes the rear push rod
to open the inlet valve. This exposes the area behind
the diaphragm to atmospheric pressure. The result-
ing force applied to the diaphragm is what provides
the extra apply pressure for power assist.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL
(1) Loosen but do not remove nuts attaching mas-
ter cylinder to booster (Fig. 3).
(2) Remove instrument panel lower trim cover.
(3) Remove retaining clip attaching booster push
rod to brake pedal (Fig. 4).
(4) Remove bolts/nuts attaching booster to dash
panel.
(5) In engine compartment, loosen vacuum hose
clamp and disconnect vacuum hose from booster
check valve (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove master cylinder attaching nuts and re-
move cylinder from mounting studs on booster.
Fig. 1 Power Brake Booster (XJ)
Fig. 2 Power Brake Booster (YJ)
5 - 22 BRAKESJ

4). The engine intake manifold serves as the vacuum
source for booster operation.
The booster is mounted on the engine compartment
side of the dash panel. The master cylinder is
mounted on attaching studs at the front of the
booster. The master cylinder central valves are di-
rectly actuated by the booster push rod.
The pedal travel sensor is mounted in the forward
face of the booster shell. The sensor plunger is actu-
ated by the booster diaphragm plate.
PEDAL TRAVEL SENSOR
The pedal travel sensor signals brake pedal posi-
tion to the antilock ECU. The sensor signal is based
on changes in electrical resistance. The resistance
changes occur in steps that are generated by changes
in brake pedal position. A resistance signal gener-
ated by changing brake pedal position, will cause the
ECU to run the antilock pump when necessary.
The sensor is a plunger-type, electrical switch
mounted in the forward housing of the power brake
booster (Fig. 5). The sensor plunger is actuated by
movement of the booster diaphragm plate.
The tip on the sensor plunger is color coded. The
tip must be matched to the color dot on the face of
the brake booster front shell (Fig. 5).
WHEEL SPEED SENSORS
A sensor is used at each wheel. The sensors convert
wheel speed into an electrical signal. This signal is trans-
mitted to the antilock electronic control unit (ECU).
A gear-type tone ring serves as the trigger mecha-
nism for each sensor. The tone rings are mounted at
the outboard ends of the front and rear axle shafts.
Different sensors are used at the front and rear
wheels (Fig. 6). The front/rear sensors have the same
electrical values but are not interchangeable.
ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU)
A separate electronic control unit (ECU) monitors,
operates and controls the antilock system (Fig. 7).
The ECU contains dual microprocessors. The logic
block in each microprocessor receives identical sensor
signals. These signals are processed and compared si-
multaneously (Fig. 8).
The ECU is located under the instrument panel. It
is located at the right side of the steering column.
The power up voltage source for the ECU is through
the ignition switch in the On and Run positions.
The antilock ECU is separate from the other vehi-
cle electronic control units. It contains a self check
program that illuminates the amber warning light
when a system fault is detected. Faults are stored in
a diagnostic program memory and are accessible
with the DRB II scan tool.
ABS faults remain in memory until cleared, or until af-
ter the vehicle is started approximately 50 times. Stored
faults arenoterased if the battery is disconnected.
ACCELERATION SWITCH
An acceleration switch (Fig. 9), provides an addi-
tional vehicle deceleration reference during 4-wheel
drive operation. The switch is monitored by the anti-
lock ECU at all times.
The switch reference signal is utilized by the ECU
when all wheels are decelerating at the same speed.
Equal wheel speeds occur during braking in undiffer-
entiated 4-wheel ranges.
Fig. 5 Pedal Travel Sensor Location
Fig. 6 Wheel Speed Sensors
JBRAKES 5 - 41

Clean the reservoir and caps thoroughly before
checking level or adding fluid. Cap open lines and
hoses during service to prevent dirt entry.
Dirt or foreign material entering the ABS hydrau-
lic system through the reservoir opening will circu-
late within the system. The result will be poor brake
performance and possible component failure. Use
clean, fresh fluid only to top off, or refill the system.
WHEEL SENSOR AIR GAP ADJUSTMENT
Only rear sensor air gap is adjustable. The front
sensors are fixed and cannot be adjusted.
A rear sensor air gap adjustment is only
needed when reinstalling an original sensor. Re-
placement sensors have an air gap spacer at-
tached to the sensor pickup face. The spacer
establishes correct air gap when pressed against
the tone ring during installation. As the tone
ring rotates, it peels the spacer off the sensor to
create the required air gap.
Preferred rear sensor air gap is 1.1 mm (0.043 in.).
Acceptable air gap range is 0.92 to 1.275 mm (0.036
to 0.050 in.).
Front sensor air gap is not adjustable. The front
sensors are fixed in position and cannot be adjusted.
Front sensor air gap can only be checked. Air gap
should be 0.040 to 1.3 mm (0.0157 to 0.051 in.). If
front sensor air gap is incorrect, the sensor is either
loose, or damaged.
FRONT WHEEL SENSOR REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle and turn wheel outward for eas-
ier access to sensor.
(2) Remove sensor wire from mounting brackets.
(3) Clean sensor and surrounding area before removal.
(4) Remove bolt attaching sensor to steering
knuckle and remove sensor.
(5) Unseat grommet retaining sensor wire in wheel
house panel.
(6) In engine compartment, disconnect sensor wire con-
nector at harness plug. Then remove sensor and wire.
FRONT WHEEL SENSOR INSTALLATION
(1) Apply Mopar Lock N' Seal or Loctite 242 to
bolt that attaches sensor to steering knuckle. Use
new sensor bolt if original bolt is worn or damaged.
(2) Position sensor on steering knuckle. Seat sen-
sor locating tab in hole in knuckle and install sensor
attaching bolt finger tight.
(3) Tighten sensor bolt to 14 NIm (11 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Attach sensor wire to steering knuckle bracket
with grommets on sensor wire.
(5) Route sensor wire forward and behind shock
absorber. Then attach sensor wire to spring seat
bracket with grommets on sensor wire.
(6) Route sensor wire to outer sill bracket. Remove
all twists or kinks from wire.(7) Attach sensor wire to sill bracket with grom-
met. Be sure wire is free of twists and kinks.
(8) Verify sensor wire routing. Wire should loop
forward and above sill bracket. Loose end of wire
should be below sill bracket and towards brake hose.
(9) Seat sensor wire grommet in body panel and
clip wire to brake line at grommet location.
(10) Connect sensor wire to harness in engine com-
partment.
REAR WHEEL SENSOR REMOVAL
(1) On XJ models, if separate connectors are not
used to attach sensor harness to each sensor wire,
proceed as follows:
(a) Raise and fold rear seat forward for access to
rear sensor connectors (Figs. 4 and 5).
(b) Disconnect sensors at rear harness connectors.
(c) Push sensor grommets and sensor wires
through floorpan.
Fig. 4 Acceleration Switch And Rear Sensor
Connections (XJ)
Fig. 5 Rear Sensor Connections (XJ)
JABS COMPONENT SERVICE 5 - 49

ECU REPLACEMENTÐXJ
ECU Removal
(1) Turn ignition key to Off position.
(2) Remove screws attaching ECU to mounting
bracket (Fig. 12).
(3) Disconnect ECU wiring harness.
(4) Remove ECU.
ECU Installation
(1) If new ECU is being installed, transfer mount-
ing bracket to new ECU.
(2) Tighten ECU-to-mounting bracket screws to
8-13 Nzm (75-115 in. lbs.) torque.
(3) Connect wire harness to ECU.
(4) Position and install ECU.
(5) Tighten ECU attaching nuts to 10-14 Nzm (85-
125 in. lbs.) torque.
ECU REPLACEMENTÐYJ
The antilock electronic control unit (ECU) is attached
to the dash panel inside the passenger compartment. It
is positioned just above the heater/air conditioning ple-
num housing, in line with the glove box (Fig. 13).
The ECU is attached to the dash panel by bolts
and nuts that are accessible from the engine com-
partment. The fasteners are located just to the right
of the battery.
On models with air conditioning, it will be neces-
sary to remove the air conditioning fascia panel and
ducts for access to the ECU and harness connecter.
HCU REMOVALÐXJ
(1) Remove air cleaner.
(2) Remove clamp that secures air cleaner hose
and pipe to fender apron (Fig. 14).(3) Position suitable size fluid drain container un-
der master cylinder reservoir hoses. Disconnect reser-
voir hoses from HCU and drain fluid into container.
Discard old fluid and remove reservoir.
(4) Disconnect pump motor and solenoid harness
wires at HCU (Fig. 15).
Fig. 12 Antilock ECU Mounting (XJ)
Fig. 13 ECU Location (YJ)
Fig. 14 Air Cleaner And Harness Connector Location (XJ)
Fig. 15 HCU Wire Harness Connections
JABS COMPONENT SERVICE 5 - 53

(5) Mark or tag HCU hydraulic lines for assembly
reference.
(6) Disconnect hydraulic lines at HCU.
(7) Move HCU harness and air cleaner hose pipe
aside for access to HCU bracket nuts.
(8) Remove single bolt and two nuts attaching
HCU to mounting bracket on inner fender panel
(Figs. 16 and 17).
(9) Remove HCU. Lift HCU up and off mounting
bracket studs. Then work HCU past brakelines and
master cylinder to remove it.
HCU INSTALLATIONÐXJ
(1) Connect master cylinder reservoir hoses to
HCU pipes.
(2) Position HCU assembly on mounting bracket
and install attaching nuts.(3) Connect hydraulic lines to HCU (Fig. 18). Line
fitting nuts and bosses on valve body ports are color
coded. Be sure lines are properly connected.
(4) Connect HCU harness wires to HCU.
(5) Check routing of HCU lines/hoses. Be sure
lines are not kinked and are clear of engine compo-
nents.
(6) Fill master cylinder reservoir with Mopar DOT
3 brake fluid or equivalent.
(7) Bleed brake system.
(8) Install air cleaner and hoses. Secure air cleaner
hose pipe to fender apron with clamp.
(9) Check brake pedal action. Bleed brakes again if
pedal is not firm (feels soft/spongy).
HCU REMOVALÐYJ
(1) Place shop towels or small container under
master cylinder reservoir hoses.
(2) Disconnect master cylinder reservoir hoses at
HCU.
(3) Disconnect all sensor and harness wires at
HCU.
(4) Disconnect brakelines at HCU (Fig. 19). Mark
or tag lines for installation reference.
(5) Remove bolt and nuts attaching HCU mount-
ing bracket to fender apron and remove HCU.
HCU INSTALLATIONÐYJ
(1) Position HCU on fender apron (Figs. 2 and 19)
and install attaching bolts/nuts.
(2) Connect brakelines to HCU.
(3) Connect harness and sensor wires to HCU.
(4) Connect master cylinder reservoir hoses to
HCU.
Fig. 16 HCU Mounting (Left Hand Drive XJ)
Fig. 17 HCU Mounting (Right Hand Drive XJ)
Fig. 18 HCU Hydraulic Line Connections
5 - 54 ABS COMPONENT SERVICEJ