1993 FORD MONDEO clock setting

Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front caliper bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 89
Rear caliper bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 44
Front caliper guide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 21
Rear caliper guide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 30
Rear drum brake backplate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 37
Vacuum servo unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30
Master cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17
ABS hydraulic unit to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Roadwheel nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 63
9•2 Braking system
1.2 Handbrake lever and associated components
1 Handbrake lever
2 Clock spring
3 Handbrake cable
4 Toothed segment and pawl to lock the
handbrake lever5 Fine-toothed segment for the clock spring
6 Pawl for the clock spring
7 Underbody bracket
The braking system is of diagonally-split,
dual-circuit design, with ventilated discs at
the front, and drum or disc brakes (according
to model) at the rear. The front calipers are of
floating single-piston design, using asbestos-
free pads. The rear drum brakes are of the
leading and trailing shoe type. They are self-
adjusting during footbrake operation. The rear
brake shoe linings are of different
thicknesses, in order to allow for the different
proportional rates of wear.
Pressure-control relief (PCR) valves are
fitted to the rear brakes, to prevent rear wheel
lock-up under hard braking. The valves are
sometimes referred to as pressure-conscious
reducing valves. On non-ABS models, theyare fitted in the master cylinder rear brake
outlet ports; on ABS models, they are located
on the ABS unit.
When rear disc brakes are fitted, the rear
brake caliper is located on the front of the
knuckle on Saloon and Hatchback models,
and on the rear of the knuckle on Estate
models (see illustration).
The handbrake is cable-operated, and acts
on the rear brakes. On rear drum brake
models, the cables operate on the rear trailing
brake shoe operating levers, and on rear disc
brake models, they operate on levers on the
rear calipers. The handbrake lever
incorporates an automatic adjuster, which
removes any slack from the cables when the
lever is disengaged (see illustration).
Handbrake lever movement remains
consistent at all times, and no adjustment is
necessary or possible.
Where fitted, the anti-lock braking system
(ABS) is of the four-channel low-pressure type
(see illustration). It uses the basic
conventional brake system, together with aBendix ABS hydraulic unit fitted between the
master cylinder and the four wheel brakes.
The hydraulic unit consists of a hydraulic
actuator, an ABS brake pressure pump, an
ABS module with built-in relay box, and two
pressure-control relief valves. Braking at each
of the four wheels is controlled by separate
solenoid valves in the hydraulic actuator. If
wheel lock-up is detected on a wheel when
the vehicle speed is above 3 mph, the valve
opens, releasing pressure to the relevant
brake, until the wheel regains a rotational
speed corresponding to the speed of the
vehicle. The cycle can be repeated many
times a second. In the event of a fault in the
ABS system, the conventional braking system
is not affected. Diagnosis of a fault in the ABS
system requires the use of special equipment,
and this work should therefore be left to a
Ford dealer. Diagnostic connectors are
located on the side of the left-hand front
suspension turret.
The traction control system (TCS) is fitted
as an option to some models, and uses the
1 General information
1.1 Rear disc brake location on
Saloon/Hatchback models (A) and Estate
models (B)
1 Handbrake cable lever facing away from
caliper
2 Handbrake cable lever facing towards
caliper
3 Brake hose banjo bolt
4 Front of vehicle
procarmanuals.com

Ignition timing and base idle
speed check
Note:The following procedure is a check only,
essentially of the ECU. Both the ignition timing
and the base idle speed are controlled by the
ECU. The ignition timing is not adjustable at
all; the base idle speed is set in production,
and should not be altered.
38If the fault code read-out (with any checks
resulting from it) has not eliminated the fault,
the next step is to check the ECU’s control of
the ignition timing and the base idle speed.
This task requires the use of a Ford STAR
tester (a proprietary fault code reader can be
used only if it is capable of inducing the ECU
to enter its “Service Adjustment Programme”),
coupled with an accurate tachometer and a
good-quality timing light. Without this
equipment, the task is not possible; the
vehicle must be taken to a Ford dealer for
attention.
39To make the check, apply the handbrake,
switch off the air conditioning (where fitted)
and any other electrical loads (lights, heated
rear window, etc), then select neutral (manual
transmission) or the “P” position (automatic
transmission). Start the engine, and warm it
up to normal operating temperature. The
radiator electric cooling fan must be running
continuously while the check is made; this
should be activated by the ECU, when
prompted by the tester. Switch off the engine,
and connect the test equipment as directed
by the manufacturer - refer to paragraph 26
above for details of STAR tester connection.
40Raise and support the front of the vehicle
securely, and remove the auxiliary drivebelt
cover (see Chapter 1). Emphasise the two
pairs of notches in the inner and outer rims of
the crankshaft pulley, using white paint. Note
that an ignition timing reference mark is not
provided on the pulley - in the normal
direction of crankshaft rotation (clockwise,
seen from the right-hand side of the vehicle)
the first pair of notches are irrelevant to the
vehicles covered in this manual, while the
second pair indicate Top Dead Centre (TDC)
when aligned with the rear edge of the raised
mark on the sump; when checking the ignition
timing, therefore, the (rear edge of the) sumpmark should appear just before the TDC
notches (see Part A of Chapter 2, Section 4,
for further information if required).
41Start the engine and allow it to idle. Work
through the engine-running test procedure
until the ECU enters its “Service Adjustment
Programme” - see paragraph 35 above.
42Use the timing light to check that the
timing marks appear approximately as
outlined above at idle speed. Do not spend
too much time on this check; if the timing
appears to be incorrect, the system may have
a fault, and a full system test must be carried
out (see below) to establish its cause.
43Using the tachometer, check that the
base idle speed is as given in the
Specifications Section of Chapter 4.
44If the recorded speed differs significantly
from the specified value, check for air leaks,
as described in the preliminary checks
(paragraphs 15 to 18 above), or any other
faults which might cause the discrepancy.
45The base idle speed is set in production
by means of an air bypass screw (located in
the front right-hand corner of the throttle
housing) which controls the amount of air that
is allowed to pass through a bypass passage,
past the throttle valve when it is fully closed in
the idle position; the screw is then sealed with
a white tamperproof plug (see illustration). In
service, the idle speed is controlled by the
ECU, which has the ability to compensate for
engine wear, build-up of dirt in the throttle
housing, and other factors which might
require changes in idle speed. The air bypass
screw setting should not, therefore, be
altered. If any alterations are made, a blue
tamperproof plug must be fitted, and the
engine should be allowed to idle for at least
five minutes on completion, so that the ECU
can re-learn its idle values.
46When both checks have been made and
the “Service Adjustment Programme” is
completed, follow the tester instructions to
return to the fault code read-out, and
establish whether the fault has been cured or
not.
Basic check of ignition system
47If the checks so far have not eliminated
the fault, the next step is to carry out a basic
check of the ignition system components,
using an engine analyser with an oscilloscope
- without such equipment, the only tests
possible are to remove and check each spark
plug in turn, to check the spark plug (HT) lead
connections and resistances, and to check
the connections and resistances of the
ignition coil. Refer to the relevant Sections of
Chapters 1 and 5.
Basic check of fuel system
48If the checks so far have not eliminated
the fault, the next step is to carry out a basic
check of the fuel system components.
49Assuming that the preliminary checks
have established that the fuel pump is
operating correctly, that the fuel filter isunlikely to be blocked, and also that there are
no leaks in the system, the next step is to
check the fuel pressure (see Chapter 4). If this
is correct, check the injectors (see Chapter 4)
and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system
(see Chapter 1).
System test
50The final element of the Ford testing
procedure is to carry out a system test, using
a break-out box - this is a device that is
connected between the ECU and its electrical
connector, so that the individual circuits
indicated by the fault code read-out can be
tested while connected to the system, if
necessary with the engine running. In the case
of many of the system’s components, this
enables their output voltages to be measured
- a more accurate means of testing.
51In addition to the break-out box and the
adaptors required to connect it, several items
of specialist equipment are needed to
complete these tests. This puts them quite
beyond the scope of many smaller dealers, let
alone the DIY owner; the vehicle should be
taken to a Ford dealer for attention.
Note:This Section is concerned principally
with the sensors which give the ECU the
information it needs to control the various
engine management sub-systems - for further
details of those systems and their other
components, refer to the relevant Chapter of
this manual.
General
ECU (Electronic Control Unit)
1This component is the heart of the entire
engine management system, controlling the
fuel injection, ignition and emissions control
systems. It also controls sub-systems such as
the radiator cooling fan, air conditioning and
automatic transmission, where appropriate.
Refer to Section 2 of this Chapter for an
illustration of how it works.
Air mass meter
2This uses a “hot-wire” system, sending the
ECU a constantly-varying (analogue) voltage
signal corresponding to the mass of air
passing into the engine. Since air mass varies
with temperature (cold air being denser than
warm), measuring air mass provides the ECU
with a very accurate means of determining the
correct amount of fuel required to achieve the
ideal air/fuel mixture ratio.
Crankshaft speed/position sensor
3This is an inductive pulse generator bolted
(in a separate bracket) to the cylinder
block/crankcase, to scan the ridges between
36 holes machined in the inboard (right-hand)
face of the flywheel/driveplate. As each ridge
4 Information sensors -
general information, testing,
removal and refitting
6•10 Emissions control systems
3.45 Throttle housing air bypass screw is
sealed on production with a white
tamperproof plug (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

15Locate the steering column shaft on the
flexible coupling, swivel the clamp plate
round, then insert the bolt and tighten to the
specified torque.
16Refit the driver’s side lower trim panel.
17Refit the steering column upper and lower
shrouds.
18Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Turn the steering wheel so that the front
wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
Remove the ignition key, then turn the
steering wheel slightly as necessary until the
steering lock engages.
3Unscrew the clamp plate bolt securing the
steering column shaft to the flexible coupling.
Swivel the clamp plate around, and disengage
it from the flexible coupling stub.
4Carefully prise the rubber boot from the
bulkhead, and withdraw it into the passenger
compartment. Take care not to damage the
sealing lip of the boot.
5Using an Allen key, unscrew the clamp bolt
securing the flexible coupling to the pinion
shaft on the steering gear, and withdraw the
coupling from inside the vehicle.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but tighten the clamp bolts to the
specified torque. Make sure that the rubber
boot engages correctly in the bulkhead and
on the flexible coupling.
Removal
1Remove the steering column flexible
coupling as described in Section 29.
2Apply the handbrake, then jack up the frontof the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both front wheels.
3Working beneath the vehicle, unbolt the
rear engine mounting from the transmission
and underbody.
4Extract the split pins from the track rod end
balljoint nuts, then unscrew the nuts, and
detach the rods from the arms on the steering
knuckles using a conventional balljoint
removal tool. Take care not to damage the
balljoint seals.
5Position a suitable container beneath the
steering gear, then unscrew the union nuts
securing the power steering fluid supply,
return, and cooler lines to the steering gear.
Identify the lines for position, then unbolt the
clamps, disconnect the lines, and allow the
fluid to drain into the container. Cover the
apertures in the steering gear and also the
ends of the fluid pipes, to prevent the ingress
of dust and dirt into the hydraulic circuit.
6Unscrew and remove the steering gear
mounting bolts. The bolts are located on top
of the steering gear, and are difficult to reach.
Ideally, the special U-shaped Ford spanner
should be used, but it is just possible to reach
them with a normal spanner (see illustration).
7Withdraw the steering gear through the
wheel arch.
Refitting
8If the steering gear is being replaced with a
new one, the new unit will be supplied
together with union nuts already fitted. The
new nuts must only be used with new feed
and return lines - otherwise, they must be
removed and discarded. If the original lines
and union nuts are being used, the Teflon
rings on the union nuts must be renewed. To
do this, the rings must be expanded
individually onto a fitting adaptor (see
illustration), then located in the grooves of
the union nuts.
9Locate the steering gear on the subframe,
and insert the two mounting bolts. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque (see illustration).
Note that, if the special Ford tool is being
used, the bottom of the tool must be turned
anti-clockwise in order to tighten the
mounting bolts.10Remove the covers from the apertures on
the steering gear, then reconnect the fluid
lines and tighten the union nuts to the
specified torque. Refit the clamps and tighten
the bolts.
11Refit the track rod end balljoints to the
steering knuckles, and tighten the nuts to the
specified torque. Check that the split pin
holes are aligned; if necessary, turn the nuts
to the nearest alignment, making sure that the
torque wrench setting is still within the
specified range. Insert new split pins, and
bend them back to secure.
12Refit the rear engine mounting to the
transmission and underbody, and tighten the
bolts to the specified torque.
13Refit the front wheels, and lower the
vehicle to the ground.
14Refit the steering column flexible coupling
with reference to Section 29.
15Bleed the power steering hydraulic
system as described in Section 33.
16Have the front wheel alignment checked,
and if necessary adjusted, at the earliest
opportunity (refer to Section 36).Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Working inside the vehicle, unscrew the
clamp plate bolt securing the steering column
shaft to the flexible coupling. Swivel the clamp
plate around, and disengage it from the
flexible coupling stub.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove both wheels.
4On manual transmission models,
disconnect the gearchange linkage and
support rods from the transmission, as
described in Chapter 7, Part A.
5Remove the exhaust downpipe complete,
as described in Chapter 4.
6Remove the cover from under the radiator
by unscrewing the screws and releasing the
clips.
31 Power steering gear
(left-hand-drive models with
ABS) - removal and refitting
30 Power steering gear (all except
left-hand-drive models with
ABS) - removal and refitting
29 Steering column flexible
coupling - removal and refitting
10•20 Suspension and steering systems
30.6 U-shaped Ford spanner for
unscrewing the steering gear mounting
bolts
30.8 Using an adaptor to fit the Teflon
rings to the union nuts
1 Adaptor 2 Teflon ring 3 Union nut
4 Groove location for the Teflon ring
30.9 Tightening the steering gear
mounting bolts using the U-shaped
spanner (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

3Start the engine, and allow it to run at a fast
idle. Check the hoses and connections for
leaks.
4Stop the engine, and recheck the fluid level.
Add more if necessary, up to the “MAX” or
“MAX COLD” mark.
5Start the engine again, allow it to idle, then
bleed the system by slowly turning the
steering wheel from side to side several times.
This should purge the system of all internal
air. However, if air remains in the system
(indicated by the steering operation being very
noisy), leave the vehicle overnight, and repeat
the procedure again the next day.
6If air still remains in the system, it may be
necessary to resort to the Ford method of
bleeding, which uses a vacuum pump. Turn
the steering to the right until it is near the stop,
then fit the vacuum pump to the fluid
reservoir, and apply 0.15 bars of vacuum.
Maintain the vacuum for a minimum of
5 minutes, then repeat the procedure with the
steering turned to the left.
7Keep the fluid level topped-up throughout
the bleeding procedure; note that, as the fluid
temperature increases, the level will rise.
8On completion, switch off the engine, and
return the front wheels to the straight-ahead
position.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
2Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
hydraulic fluid line support to the engine lifting
bracket on the right-hand side of the engine.
3Unscrew and remove the bolt securing the
hydraulic fluid line support to the pump
mounting bracket.
4Position a suitable container beneath the
power steering pump, to catch spilt fluid.
5Loosen the clip, and disconnect the fluid
supply hose from the pump inlet. Plug the
hose, to prevent the ingress of dust and dirt.
6Unscrew the union nut, and disconnect the
high-pressure line from the pump. Allow the
fluid to drain into the container.
7Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the right-hand front wheel.
8Unbolt and remove the lower drivebelt
cover.
9Using a spanner, rotate the drivebelt
tensioner in a clockwise direction to release
the belt tension, then slip the drivebelt off the
pulleys and remove from the vehicle. Refer to
Chapter 1 if necessary.
10Unscrew and remove the four mounting
bolts, and withdraw the power steering pump
from its bracket. Access to the bolts on the
right-hand side of the engine is gained by
turning the pump pulley until a hole lines up
with the bolt.
Refitting
11Locate the power steering pump on the
mounting bracket, and secure with the four
bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specified
torque.
12Slip the drivebelt over the pulleys, then
rotate the drivebelt tensioner in a clockwise
direction, and locate the drivebelt on it.
Release the tensioner to tension the drivebelt.
13Refit the lower belt cover.
14Refit the right-hand front wheel, and lower
the vehicle to the ground.
15If necessary, the sealing ring on the high-
pressure outlet should be renewed, using the
same procedure as described in Section 30,
paragraph 8.
16Reconnect the high-pressure line to the
pump, and tighten the union nut.
17Reconnect the fluid supply hose to the
pump inlet, and tighten the clip.
18Refit the hydraulic fluid line support to the
pump mounting bracket, and tighten the bolt.
19Refit the hydraulic fluid line support to the
engine lifting bracket on the right-hand side of
the engine, and tighten the bolt.
20Reconnect the battery negative lead.
21Bleed the power steering hydraulic
system as described in Section 33.
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle and support it on axle stands.
Remove the appropriate front roadwheel.
2Using a suitable spanner, slacken the
locknut on the track rod by a quarter-turn.
Hold the track rod end stationary with another
spanner engaged with the special flats while
loosening the locknut.
3Extract the split pin, then unscrew and
remove the track rod end balljoint retaining
nut.
4To release the tapered shank of the balljoint
from the steering knuckle arm, use a balljoint
separator tool (if the balljoint is to be re-used,
take care not to damage the dust cover when
using the separator tool) (see illustration).
5Count the number of exposed threads
visible on the inner section of the track rod,
and record this figure.
6Unscrew the track rod end from the track
rod, counting the number of turns necessary
to remove it. If necessary, hold the track rod
stationary with grips.
Refitting
7Screw the track rod end onto the track rod
by the number of turns noted during removal,
until it just contacts the locknut.
8Engage the shank of the balljoint with the
steering knuckle arm, and refit the nut.
Tighten the nut to the specified torque. If the
balljoint shank turns while the nut is being
tightened, press down on the balljoint. The
tapered fit of the shank will lock it, and
prevent rotation as the nut is tightened.9Check that the split pin holes in the nut and
balljoint shank are aligned. If necessary turn
the nut to the nearest alignment, making sure
that the torque wrench setting is still within
the specified range. Insert a new split pin, and
bend it back to secure.
10Now tighten the locknut, while holding the
track rod end as before.
11Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle
to the ground.
12Finally check, and if necessary adjust, the
front wheel alignment as described in Sec-
tion 29.
1Accurate front wheel alignment is essential
to provide positive steering, and to prevent
excessive tyre wear. Before considering the
steering/suspension geometry, check that the
tyres are correctly inflated, that the front
wheels are not buckled, and that the steering
linkage and suspension joints are in good
order, without slackness or wear.
2Wheel alignment consists of four factors
(see illustration):
Camberis the angle at which the front
wheels are set from the vertical, when viewed
from the front of the vehicle. “Positive
camber” is the amount (in degrees) that the
wheels are tilted outward at the top of the
vertical. Castoris the angle between the
steering axis and a vertical line, when viewed
from each side of the car. “Positive castor” is
when the steering axis is inclined rearward at
the top.
Steering axis inclinationis the angle (when
viewed from the front of the vehicle) between
the vertical and an imaginary line drawn
through the suspension strut upper mounting
and the lower suspension arm balljoint.
Toe settingis the amount by which the
distance between the front inside edges of the
roadwheels (measured at hub height) differs
from the diametrically-opposite distance
measured between the rear inside edges of
the front roadwheels.
3With the exception of the toe setting, all
other steering angles are set during
manufacture, and no adjustment is possible. It
36 Wheel alignment and steering
angles - general information35 Track rod end - renewal34 Power steering pump -
removal and refitting
10•22 Suspension and steering systems
35.4 Using a balljoint separator tool to
release the track rod end balljoint
procarmanuals.com

can be assumed, therefore, that unless the
vehicle has suffered accident damage, all the
preset steering angles will be correct. Should
there be some doubt about their accuracy, it
will be necessary to seek the help of a Ford
dealer, as special gauges are needed to
check the steering angles.
4Two methods are available to the home
mechanic for checking the toe setting. One
method is to use a gauge to measure the
distance between the front and rear inside
edges of the roadwheels. The other method is
to use a scuff plate, in which each front wheel
is rolled across a movable plate which records
any deviation, or scuff, of the tyre from the
straight-ahead position as it moves across the
plate. Relatively-inexpensive equipment of
both types is available from accessory outlets.
5If, after checking the toe setting using
whichever method is preferable, it is found
that adjustment is necessary, proceed as
follows.
6Turn the steering wheel onto full-left lock,
and record the number of exposed threads on
the right-hand track rod. Now turn the
steering onto full-right lock, and record the
number of threads on the left-hand track rod.If there are the same number of threads visible
on both sides, then subsequent adjustment
can be made equally on both sides. If there
are more threads visible on one side than the
other, it will be necessary to compensate for
this during adjustment. After adjustment,
there must be the same number of threads
visible on each track rod. This is most
important.
7To alter the toe setting, slacken the locknut
on the track rod, and turn the track rod using
self-locking pliers to achieve the desired
setting. When viewed from the side of the car,
turning the rod clockwise will increase the
toe-in, turning it anti-clockwise will increase
the toe-out. Only turn the track rods by a
quarter of a turn each time, and then recheck
the setting.
8After adjustment, tighten the locknuts.
Reposition the steering gear rubber gaiters, to
remove any twist caused by turning the track
rods.
9The rear wheel toe-setting may also be
checked and adjusted, but as this additionally
requires alignment with the front wheels, it
should be left to a Ford garage or specialist
having the special equipment required.
Suspension and steering systems 10•23
10
36.2 Wheel alignment and steering angles
procarmanuals.com

BulbsWattage Type
Headlight main beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Halogen
Headlight dipped beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Halogen
Foglights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Halogen
Sidelights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Wedge
Direction indicator lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bayonet
Side repeater lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Wedge
Stop-lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bayonet
Reversing lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bayonet
Rear fog/tail lights (Saloon and Estate) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21/4 Bayonet
Rear tail light (Saloon and Hatchback) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Bayonet
Number plate lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Festoon
Engine compartment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Wedge
Interior lights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Festoon
Reading light . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Wedge
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Windscreen wiper motor bolts:
Into old motor (see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 6
Into new motor (see text) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 9
Body electrical system 12•3
12
Warning: Before carrying out any
work on the electrical system,
read through the precautions
given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of
this manual.The electrical system is of 12-volt negative
earth type. Power for the lights and all
electrical accessories is supplied by a
lead/acid battery which is charged by the
alternator.
This Chapter covers repair and service
procedures for the various electrical
components not associated with the engine.
Information on the battery, ignition system,alternator, and starter motor can be found in
Chapter 5.
All models are fitted with a driver’s air bag,
which is designed to prevent serious chest
and head injuries to the driver during an
accident. A similar bag for the front seat
passenger is also available (see illustration).
The sensor and electronic unit for the air bag
is located next to the steering column inside
the vehicle, and contains a back-up capacitor,
crash sensor, decelerometer, safety sensor,
integrated circuit and microprocessor (see
illustration). The air bag is inflated by a gas
generator, which forces the bag out of the
module cover in the centre of the steering
wheel. A “clock spring” ensures that a good
electrical connection is maintained with the air
bag at all times - as the steering wheel is
turned in each direction, the spring winds and
unwinds.
All UK models are fitted with an alarm
system incorporating a movement sensor and
ignition immobiliser. On Saloon and
Hatchback models, the alarm system horn is
located on the left-hand side of the luggage
1 General information
1.3A Air bag system components
1 Air bag module (driver’s)
2 Clock spring3 Diagnostic and sensor unit
4 Air bag indicator light5 Air bag module
(passenger’s)
1.3B Air bag sensor and electronic unit
1 Crash sensor
2 Safety sensor
3 Voltage back-up
4 Application Specific Integrated Circuit
5 Microprocessor
procarmanuals.com

located above the front direction indicator
(see illustration).
11Withdraw the front direction indicator light
unit.
12Rotate the bulbholder anti-clockwise, and
withdraw it from the light unit. Alternatively,
the wiring plug can be disconnected from the
bulbholder, leaving the bulb in position (see
illustration). Remove the light unit.
Foglight (front)
13Unscrew the cross-head screws securing
the front foglight unit to the valance, and
withdraw the light unit from the valance.
14Prise open the plastic clips, and remove
the rear cover from the light unit.
15Release the spring clips and withdraw the
bulb, then pull off the wiring connector.
Remove the foglight unit.
Rear light cluster
16With the tailgate or bootlid open, unhook
the parcel net (where fitted) from the rear of
the luggage compartment.
17On Saloon and Hatchback models,
remove the screws, release the clips, and
remove the trim panel from the rear cross
panel. On Estate models, it is sufficient to
open the flap.
18Remove the screws, and press the rear
light trim cover from the guides (where
applicable).
19Disconnect the wiring multi-plug.
20Unscrew the four mounting nuts, and
withdraw the light unit from the outside of the
vehicle (see illustrations).
Rear number plate light assembly
21Remove both number plate lights as
described in Section 5.
22With the tailgate or bootlid open, remove
the screws and withdraw the inner trim panel.
23Unscrew the nuts, and remove the outer
cover and number plate base from the
tailgate.
24Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
light assembly.
Refitting
25Refitting of all the external light units is a
reversal of the removal procedure, noting the
following points:(a) When refitting the rubber seal on the
headlight unit, note that it has a tapered
seat.
(b) If one or both headlights have been
disturbed, have the beam alignment
checked as described in the next Section.
(c) When refitting the rear light cluster, check
the condition of the sealer on the body
panel, and if necessary renew it.
1Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam
is only possible using optical beam-setting
equipment. This work should therefore be
carried out by a Ford dealer, or other service
station with the necessary facilities.
2Temporary adjustment can be made after
renewal of a headlight bulb or unit, or as an
emergency measure if the alignment is
incorrect following accident damage. Turn the
adjustment screws on the top of the headlamp
unit to make the adjustment (see illustration).
3Before making any adjustments to the
settings, it is important that the tyre pressures
are correct, and that the vehicle is standing on
level ground. Bounce the front of the vehicle a
few times to settle the suspension. Ideally,
somebody of average size should sit in the
driver’s seat during the adjustment, and the
vehicle should have a full tank of fuel. Where a
vehicle is fitted with an electrical beam
levelling system, set the switch to the “O”
position before making any adjustments.4Whenever temporary adjustments are
made, the settings must be checked and if
necessary reset by a Ford dealer or other
qualified person as soon as possible.
Removal
1Remove the headlight unit as described in
Section 7, then remove the cover.
2Disconnect the wiring multi-plug from the
motor.
3Rotate the motor upwards approximately
60°, then pull it forwards slightly.
4Disconnect the adjustment spindle by
pressing the ball coupling to one side, away
from the socket on the reflector.
5Withdraw the motor from the headlight unit.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but make sure that the motor is
turned down until it engages the stop.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1).
10 Instrument panel -
removal and refitting
9 Headlight levelling motor -
removal and refitting
8 Headlight beam alignment-
checking and adjustment
Body electrical system 12•13
12
7.20B Removing the rear light cluster unit
8.2 Headlight beam setting adjustment
screws
1 Vertical alignment screw
2 Horizontal alignment screw
7.10 Loosen the front direction indicator
retaining screw7.12 Disconnecting the wiring plug from
the indicator bulbholder7.20A Rear light cluster mounting nuts
(arrowed)
procarmanuals.com

switches mounted in the engine compartment
with a control cable connected to the throttle
valve actuator, driver-operated switches,
brake and clutch pedal switches, an indicator
light, and a road speed sensor.
4The driver-operated switches are mounted
on the steering wheel, and allow the driver to
control the various functions.
5The vehicle speed sensor uses the
speedometer cable drive pinion to generate
pulses which are fed to the speed control unit.
6The stop-light switch, brake pedal switch
and (when applicable) clutch pedal switch are
used to disable the cruise control system. The
stop-light switch is activated when the brake
pedal is applied gently, and the brake pedal
switch is activated when the brake pedal is
applied forcibly.
7An indicator light on the instrument panel is
illuminated when the system is in operation.
8The following paragraphs describe brief
removal procedures for the cruise control
system components. The battery negative
(earth) lead should be disconnected before
commencing work (refer to Chapter 5, Sec-
tion 1). Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Speed control switch
9Remove the steering column upper and
lower shrouds, with reference to Chapter 10.
10Remove the air bag module as described
in Section 29.11Disconnect the multi-plugs, then unscrew
the screws and remove the switch.
Disable switches
12Remove the lower facia panel from under
the steering column.
13Disconnect the multi-plugs from the
clutch switch, brake pedal switch and stop-
light switch.
14To remove the clutch and brake pedal
switches, twist them anti-clockwise. To
remove the stop-light switch, twist it
clockwise (see illustration).
15Refitting is the reverse of removal. To
ensure correct operation of the brake pedal
switches, reset the switch by fully extending
its plunger (see illustration).Depress the
pedal until the distance between it and the
mounting bracket is as shown in Chapter 9,
illustration 25.6. Hold the pedal in this
position, clip the switch securely into position
and gently raise the pedal to the at-rest
position. This will automatically set the
position of the switch.
Speed control actuator
16Remove the air cleaner as described in
Chapter 4.
17Disconnect the actuator cable from the
throttle linkage on the throttle housing, by
releasing the inner cable end fitting from the
segment and unclipping the outer cable from
the bracket.
18Unscrew the actuator mounting bolt, thenslide the actuator out of the mounting pin
holes.
19Disconnect the multi-plug and remove the
assembly.
20Depress the actuating cable cap locking
arm, and remove the cap by turning it anti-
clockwise (see illustration).
21Gently raise the cable retaining lug by a
maximum of 0.5 mm, and push the cable end
out of the slot in the pulley.
22When refitting, make sure that the cable
end locks into the slot in the pulley.
23To locate the cable cap onto the actuator
pulley, keep the cable taut and in the pulley
groove, and pull the throttle linkage end of the
cable to draw the cable cap onto the pulley.
24To refit the cable cap, keep the cable taut
and the pulley still, then refit the cable cap
tabs into the actuator slots; turn the cap
clockwise until the locking arm locates on the
locking stop. Note:Incorrect assembly of the
cable onto the pulley may result in a high idle
speed. Check that the throttle lever is in its
idle position after refitting the actuator.
Removal
Washer reservoir and pump
1Unscrew the bolts, and release the clips to
remove the radiator lower cover.
2Unscrew the mounting bolts, and pull the
reservoir forwards slightly (see illustration).
For better access, it may be necessary to
remove the front bumper.
3Disconnect the multi-plugs for the
windscreen washer pump and fluid level
sensor (see illustration).
4Disconnect the hoses from the windscreen
washer pump and (where applicable) from the
headlamp washer pump. Anticipate some loss
of fluid by placing a container beneath the
reservoir.
5Withdraw the reservoir from the vehicle.
6Pull the level sensor, the windscreen
washer pump, and (where applicable) the
22 Windscreen/tailgate washer
system components -
removal and refitting
12•20 Body electrical system
21.14 Removal of the speed control
disable switches
1 Clutch switch 3 Stop-light switch
2 Brake pedal switch21.15 Resetting the brake pedal and stop-
light switches21.20 Removing the actuator cable
locking arm
22.2 Washer reservoir mounting bolts
(arrowed)22.3 Disconnecting the washer pump and
level sensor multi-plugs
procarmanuals.com