
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal w\
hen the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mea\
n something is
wrong with your brakes.
Rear Drum Brakes
Your rear drum brakes don’t have the wear indicators, but i\
f you ever hear a
rear brake rubbing noise, have the rear brake linings inspected\
. Also, the rear
brake drums should be removed and inspected each time the tire\
s are
removed for rotation or changing. When you have the front brak\
es replaced,
have the rear brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets. \
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if
there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a s\
ign of brake
trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for\
wear. If your
brake pedal goes down farther than normal, your rear drum brak\
es may need
adjustment. Adjust them by backing up and firmly applying the \
brakes a few
times.
Braking In Emergencies
At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation that requires hard
braking. You have the rear wheel antilock braking system. Your front wheels
can stop rolling when you brake very hard. Once they do, the \
vehicle can’t respond to your steering. Momentum will carry
it in whatever direction it was
headed when the front wheels stopped rolling. That could be of\
f the road,
into the very thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic.
So, use a “squeeze” braking technique. This will give you max\
imum braking
while maintaining steering control. You do this by pushing on the brake pedal
with steadily increasing pressure. When you do, it will help maintain steering
control. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than \
even the very
best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the\
system
fails to function, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
4-1 7

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Remember: The rear wheel antilock braking system (RWAL) helps \
avoid only
a rear braking skid. In a braking skid (where the front wheels \
are no longer
rolling), release enough pressure on the brakes to get the front wheels rolling
again. This restores steering control. Push the brake pedal dow\
n steadily
when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the front wheels \
are rolling, you
will have steering control. Steer the way you want to go.
Off-Road Driving with Your FoutNVheel
Drive Vehick
This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel drive.\
Also, see
“Antilock Brakes’’ in the Index.
If your vehicle doesn’t have four-wheel drive,
you shouldn’t drive off-road unless you’re on a level, so\
lid surface.
Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have some definite hazards.
The greatest of these is the terrain itself.
“Off-roading” means you’ve left the great North American\
road system behind.
Traffic lanes aren’t marked. Curves aren’t banked. There a\
re no road signs.
Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or downhill. In short, \
you’ve gone right
back to nature.
Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that’s why it’s very important
that you read this guide. You’ll find many driving tips and suggestio\
ns. These
will help make your off-road driving safer and more enjoyable. \
Before You Go Off-Roading
There are some things to do before you go outi For example, be sure to
have all necessary maintenance and service work done. Be sure \
you read all
the information about your four-wheel drive vehicle in this man\
ual.
Is there
enough fuel?
Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are the fluid levels up where
they should be? What are the local laws that apply to off-roading where you’ll
be driving?
If you don’t know, you should check with law enforcement people\
in the area. Will you be on someone’s private land?
If so, be sure to get the
necessary permission.
Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road Driving
There are some important things to remember about how to load your
vehicle.
The heaviest things should be on the load floor and forward of your rear
Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on the off-road terrain
axle. Put heavier items as far forward as you can.
doesn’t toss things around.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink into \
the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating, and braking. You may want to reduce
the air pressure in your tires slightly when driving on sand. \
This will improve
traction.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction. On these surfaces, it’s
very easy to lose control. On wet ice, for example, the tract\
ion
is so poor
that you will have difficulty accelerating. And
if you do get moving, poor
steering and difficult braking can cause you to slide out of control.
nds or rivers can be dangerous.
~;~:.cx :. 2’’
nderwater springs, currents under the ice, or sudden thaws can \
25
weaken the ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and you ad.
. your passengers could drown. Drive your vehicle on safe surface\
s
~~ : . I’ .: . :j/-
,. ,/ ., ‘!...,I:, I -
Driving In Water
Light rain causes no special off-road driving problems. But hea\
vy rain can
mean flash flooding, and flood waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it’s deep
enough to cover your wheel hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, don’t
try it-you
probably won’t get through. Also, water that deep can damage\
your axle and
other vehicle parts.
If the water isn’t too deep, then drive through it slowly. At fast speeds, water
splashes on your ignition system and your vehicle can stall. S\
talling can also
occur
if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long as your tailp\
ipe is
under water, you’ll never be able to start your engine. Whe\
n you go through
water, remember that when your brakes get wet,
it may take you longer to
stop.
A
Driving through rushing water can be dangerous. Deep water can
sweep your vehilcle downstream and you and your passengers could
drown.
If it’s only inches deep, it can still wash away the ground
from under your tires, and you could lose traction and roll the vehicle
over.
Don’t drive through rushing water.
4-33

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Your Driving and the Road
1, I
AM455009
Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going thr\
ough some car
washes can cause problems, too. The water may affect your brak\
es. Try to avoid puddles. But
if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.
I CAUTION I
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work well in a quick
stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of
I
the vehicle.
After arlvlng through a large puddle of water or a car
WE ’ , a, ~, ‘y
your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.
I
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that
they can actually ride on the water. This can happen
if the road is wet
enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle
is hydroplaning, it
has little or no contact with the road.
You might not be aware of hydroplaning. You could drive along for some time-
-
without realizing your tires aren’t in constant contact with the road. You could
find out the hard way: when you have to
slow, turn, move out to pass-or if
you get hit by a gust of wind. You could suddenly find yourself out of control.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But
it can if your tires haven’t much tread
or
if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is
standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone \
poles,
or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s s\
urface, there could be
hydroplaning.

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Your Driving and the Road
..
C. .-, - ._ .
may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.\
For example,
40 mph (65 km/h) might seem like only 20 mph (30 km/h). Obviously, this
could lead to serious trouble on a ramp designed for
20 mph (30 km/h)!
Driving a Long Distance
Although most long trips today are made on freeways, there are\
still many
made on regular highways.
Long-distance driving on freeways and regular highways is the s\
ame in some
ways. The trip has to be planned and the vehicle prepared, yo\
u drive at
higher-than-city speeds, and there are longer turns behind the \
wheel. You’ll
enjoy your trip more if you and your vehicle are in good shape. Here are
some tips for a successful long trip.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re
not fresh-such as after a day’s work-don’t plan to make too many miles
that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can
easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained,
it’s ready to go.
If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of
course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in \
your vehicle’s
dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and w\
illing to help
if
YOU
Her1
0
need it.
ire
Some things you can check before a trip:
Windshield Washer Fluid:
Is the reservoir full? Are all windows clean
inside and outside?
Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?
Lights: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble-free trip.\
Is the tread
good enough for long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflat\
ed to the
recommended pressure?
Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your rout\
e? Should you delay your trip
a short time to avoid a major storm system?
Maps:
Do you have up-to-date maps?
4-44

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trail\
er. Cross
the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer
so that the tongue will not
drop to the road if
it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for atta\
ching safety
chains. Always leave just enough slack
so you can turn with your rig. And,
never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 pounds (450 kg) loaded, then it needs
its own brakes-and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
And:
Don’t tap into your vehicle’s brake system if the trailer’s brake system
will use more than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3~~) of fluid from your vehicle’s
- master cylinder. If it does, both braking systems won’t work well. You
could even lose your brakes.
Will the trailer brake parts take 3,000 psi (20 650 kPa) of pressure? If
not, the trailer brake system must not be used with your vehi\
cle.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake fluid tap \
at the
port on the master cylinder that sends fluid to the rear brak\
es. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience. Before setti\
ng out
for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. A\
cquaint yourself with
the feel of handling and braking with the added weight
of the trailer. And
always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal
longer and not nearly
so responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform, safety \
chains, electrical
connector, lights, tires and mirror adjustment.
If the trailer has electric brakes,
start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trail\
er brake controller
by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you che\
ck your electrical
connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load \
is secure, and
that the lights and any trailer brakes are still working.
4-59

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine KO721
8. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pres\
sure cap line up like this.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged,
the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most every day
driving conditions the clutch is not engaged. This improves fue\
l economy and
reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing andlor high
outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when the clutch e\
ngages.
So
you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be
mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely the
cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down whe\
n additional
cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away
as the fan clutch disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re d\
riving, especially if you
maintain your tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to
leak out slowly. But if you should ever have a “blowout,”\
here are a few tips
about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pu\
lls the vehicle toward
that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel
firmly. Steer to maintain lane position, then gently brake to \
a stop well out of
the traffic lane.
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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine Problenrs on the Road
KO546
Return the jack, wheel wrench and wheel blocks to the proper \
location behind
the seat. Secure the items and replace the jack cover.
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the passenger
compartment of the vehicle could cause injury. In a sudden stop or
collision, loose equipment could strike someone. Store all these\
in
I the proper place.
Compact Spare (If So Equipped)
Although your compact spare was fully inflated when the vehicle\
was new,
it can lose air over time. Check its inflation pressure regularly.\
It should be
60 psi (420 kPa). The compact spare is made to go up to 3,000 miles
(5000 km), so you can finish your trip and get a new tire where you want.
Of course, it's best to replace your spare with
a full-size tire as soon as you
can. Your spare will last longer and be in good shape in case you ever need
it again.
5-28