1989 FORD FIESTA oil change

15 Inlet manifold-
removal and refitting
4
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Removal
1 The inlet manifold is a two-piece assembly
comprising an upper and lower section bolted
together (see illustration) .
2 Drain the cooling system with reference to
Chapter 1.
3 Depressurise the fuel system as described
in Section 2.
4 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
5 Remove the air inlet components (Section
4) and disconnect the accelerator cable from
the throttle linkage (Section 5).
6 Remove the fuel injectors and fuel rail as
described in Section 14.
7 Noting their locations, disconnect the
coolant, vacuum and breather hoses from the
manifold.
8 Disconnect the wiring multi-plugs from the
engine sensors at the inlet manifold.
9 Undo the retaining bolts, and withdraw the
manifold from the cylinder head. Note the
location of the engine lifting bracket and earth
lead, where fitted. Remove the gasket.
10 With the manifold removed, clean all
traces of the old gasket from the mating surfaces of the manifold and the cylinder
head.
Refitting
11
Refitting is the reversal of removal. Use a
new gasket, and tighten the retaining bolts to
the specified torque (see illustration).
Refit the remainder of the components with
reference to the appropriate Chapters of this
manual. Refill the cooling system as
described in Chapter 1 on completion.
16 Turbocharger - general
information and precautions
General information
1 A water-cooled turbocharger is used on all
Turbo models covered by this manual. The
turbocharger increases the efficiency of the
engine by raising the pressure in the inlet
manifold above atmospheric pressure.
Instead of the air/fuel mixture being simply
sucked into the cylinders it is actively forced
in.
2 Energy for the operation of the
turbocharger comes from the exhaust gas.
The gas flows through a specially-shaped
housing (the turbine housing) and in so doing
spins the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is
attached to a shaft, at the other end of which
is another vaned wheel known as the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel
spins in its own housing and compresses the
inducted air on the way to the inlet manifold.
3
After leaving the turbocharger, the
compressed air passes through an
intercooler, which is an air-to-air heat
exchanger mounted with the radiator. Here
the air gives up heat which it acquired when
being compressed. This temperature
reduction improves engine efficiency and
reduces the risk of detonation.
4 Boost pressure (the pressure in the inlet
manifold) is limited by the turbocharger
wastegate control, which diverts the exhaust
gas away from the turbine wheel in response
to the boost control valve. The valve is
controlled by the EEC IV engine management
module.
5 The turbo shaft is pressure-lubricated by
means of a feed pipe from the engine’s main oil
gallery. The shaft “floats” on a cushion of oil. A
drain pipe returns the oil to the sump.
6 Water cooling reduces the operating
temperature of the turbocharger, and in
particular, the shaft bearings. Water continues
to circulate by convection after the engine has
stopped, so cooling the unit if it is hot after a
long run.
Precautions
7 The turbocharger operates at extremely
high speeds and temperatures. Certain
precautions must be observed to avoid
premature failure of the turbo or injury to the
operator. a) Do not operate the turbo with any parts
exposed. Foreign objects falling onto the
rotating vanes could cause extensive
damage and (if ejected) personal injury.
b) Do not race the engine immediately after
start-up, especially if it is cold. Give the oil
a few seconds to circulate.
c) Always allow the engine to return to idle
speed before switching it off - do not blip
the throttle and switch off, as this will
leave the turbo spinning without
lubrication.
d) Allow the engine to idle for several
minutes before switching off after a high-
speed run.
e) Observe the recommended intervals for oil and filter changing, and use a
reputable oil of the specified quality.
Neglect of oil changing, or use of inferior
oil, can cause carbon formation on the
turbo shaft and subsequent failure.
17 Intercooler -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the flexible hose connecting the
intercooler to the air inlet duct, then the pipe
4C•8 Fuel system - electronic fuel injection engines
15.1 Exploded view of the inlet manifold arrangement
1595Ford Fiesta Remakeprocarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

and flexible hose connecting the turbocharger
to the intercooler (see illustration 4.12) . Use
adhesive tape to seal the turbocharger ports
against the entry of dirt.
3 Unbolt the horn nearest the intercooler.
4 Unbolt the radiator/intercooler assembly
from the bonnet closure panel and the body
crossmember.
5 Move the assembly as far as possible
towards the engine, and unbolt the intercooler
from the radiator; withdraw the intercooler.
Refitting
6 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, tightening all nuts and bolts to the
specified torque settings, and not forgetting
to unseal the turbocharger openings before
reconnecting the intercooler pipe and hose.
18 Turbocharger boost control valve - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Disconnect the control valve wiring at its
multi-plug (see illustration) .
3 Marking or labelling the valve hoses so that
each can be reconnected to its original union,
disconnect the hoses from the valve.
4 Remove the securing screws and withdraw
the valve.
Refitting
5 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the screws to the specified
torque setting.
19 Turbocharger boost pressure - checking and
adjustment
5
Accurate checking and adjustment of the
turbocharger boost pressure requires considerable skill and experience and the use
of Ford special tools and diagnostic test
equipment. This work should therefore be
entrusted to a Ford dealer or performance
engine specialist.
20 Turbocharger
- removal,
examination and refitting
3
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the cooling system as described in
Chapter 1.
3 Remove the air inlet components as
described in Section 4.
4 Disconnect the turbocharger coolant feed
and return hoses by slackening the clamps
and pulling the hoses off the turbocharger’s
metal pipes (see illustration) .
5 Remove the pipe and flexible hoses
connecting the turbocharger to the air cleaner
and intercooler. Use adhesive tape to seal the
turbocharger ports against the entry of dirt.
6 Disconnect the turbocharger oil feed and
return pipes by unscrewing the couplings.
7 Remove its three retaining screws and
withdraw the exhaust manifold heat shield.
8 Disconnect the exhaust system downpipe
from the turbocharger, then disconnect the
hose from the boost control valve to the
turbocharger wastegate control actuator.
9 Unscrew the exhaust manifold nuts, and
withdraw the manifold and turbocharger as an
assembly, protecting the radiator with
cardboard or similar.
10 To separate the turbocharger from the
manifold, flatten back the raised lockwasher tabs and unscrew the three retaining bolts.
Disconnect the turbocharger oil and coolant
pipes if required. This is as far as the unit can
be dismantled;
do notdisturb the wastegate
or its actuator and linkage.
Examination
11 With the turbocharger in the vehicle,
check that there are no air leaks around any
part of the air inlet components, and that the
boost control valve hoses are intact and
securely fastened.
12 With the turbocharger removed, check the
turbine wheels and blades (as far as possible)
for signs of wear or damage. Spin the turbine
and check that it rotates smoothly and easily,
with no sign of roughness, free play or
abnormal noise. If possible, check for axial
play (endfloat) of the shaft. Check that the
wastegate, its actuator and linkage show no
visible signs of wear, damage or stiffness due
to dirt and corrosion.
13 If any sign of wear or damage is found,
the turbocharger must be renewed.
Refitting
14 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure, noting the following points: a) Refit the oil and coolant pipes, tightening
the unions to the specified torque
settings.
b) Always use new lockwashers when
refitting the turbocharger to the manifold;
again, tighten the bolts to their specified
torque setting.
c) Protect the radiator when refitting the
assembly, and always fit a new exhaust
manifold gasket.
d) Ensure that the oil feed and return pipes
are absolutely clean before reconnecting
them and tightening them to the specified
torque setting.
e) Owners are well advised to change the engine oil and filter whenever the
turbocharger is disturbed (see Chap-
ter 1).
f) When reassembly is complete and the
cooling system refilled (see Chapter 1),
disable the ignition system by
disconnecting the E-DIS ignition coil
wiring multi-plug, then turn the engine
over on the starter motor until the oil
pressure light goes out. This is essential
to ensure that the turbocharger oil supply
is established BEFORE the engine is
started; do not forget to reconnect
the coil before attempting to start the
engine
Fuel system - electronic fuel injection engines 4C•9
20.4 Turbocharger/exhaust manifold assembly details
A Exhaust manifold-to-turbocharger bolts
B Oil pipes
C Coolant pipes (metal)
4C
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
18.2 Location of turbo boost control valve (arrowed)
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

into the engine induction system and thence
into the combustion chambers. This
arrangement eliminates any fuel mixture
control problems. The operating principles for
the system used on the Endura-E engine are
basically the same as just described with
revisions to the component locations and
hose arrangement.On CVH and PTE engines, a closed-circuit
type crankcase ventilation system is used, the
function of which is basically the same as that
described for the HCS engine type, but the
breather hose connects directly to the rocker
cover. The oil filler cap incorporates a
separate filter in certain applications. On Zetec engines, the crankcase ventilation
system main components are the oil
separator mounted on the front (radiator) side
of the cylinder block/crankcase, and the
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set
in a rubber grommet in the separator’s left-
hand upper end. The associated pipework
consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two
flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a
union on the left-hand end of the inlet
manifold, and a crankcase breather hose
connecting the cylinder head cover to the air
cleaner assembly. A small foam filter in the air
cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn
directly into the engine.
Evaporative emissions control system
This system is fitted to minimise the escape
of unburned hydrocarbons into the
atmosphere. Fuel evaporative emissions
control systems are limited on vehicles
meeting earlier emissions regulations;
carburettor float chambers are vented
internally, whilst fuel tanks vent to atmosphere
through a combined roll-over/anti-trickle-fill
valve. On vehicles meeting the more stringent
emissions regulations, the fuel tank filler cap
is sealed, and a charcoal canister is used to
collect and store petrol vapours generated in
the tank when the vehicle is parked. When the
engine is running, the vapours are cleared
from the canister (under the control of the
EEC IV engine management module via the
canister-purge solenoid valve) into the inlet
tract, to be burned by the engine during
normal combustion. To ensure that the engine runs correctly
when it is cold and/or idling, and to protect
the catalytic converter from the effects of an
over-rich mixture, the canister-purge solenoid
valve is not opened by the EEC IV module
until the engine is fully warmed-up and
running under part-load; the solenoid valve is
then switched on and off, to allow the stored
vapour to pass into the inlet tract.
Pulse-air system
This system consists of the pulse-air
solenoid valve, the pulse-air valve itself, the
delivery tubing, a pulse-air filter, and on some
models, a check valve. The system injects
filtered air directly into the exhaust ports,
using the pressure variations in the exhaust
gases to draw air through from the filter housing; air will flow into the exhaust only
when its pressure is below atmospheric. The
pulse-air valve can allow gases to flow only
one way, so there is no risk of hot exhaust
gases flowing back into the filter.
The system’s primary function is raise
exhaust gas temperatures on start-up, thus
reducing the amount of time taken for the
catalytic converter to reach operating
temperature. Until this happens, the system
reduces emissions of unburned hydrocarbon
particles (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) by
ensuring that a considerable proportion of
these substances remaining in the exhaust
gases after combustion are burned up, either
in the manifold itself or in the catalytic
converter.
To ensure that the system does not upset
the smooth running of the engine under
normal driving conditions, it is linked by the
pulse-air solenoid valve to the EEC IV module,
so that it only functions during engine warm-
up, when the oxygen sensor is not influencing
the fuel/air mixture ratio.
Catalytic converter
Catalytic converters have been introduced
progressively on all models in the range, to
meet the various emissions regulations.
The catalytic converter is located in the
exhaust system, and operates in conjunction
with an exhaust gas oxygen sensor to reduce
exhaust gas emissions. The catalytic
converter uses precious metals (platinum and
palladium or rhodium) as catalysts to speed
up the reaction between the pollutants and
the oxygen in the vehicle’s exhaust gases, CO
and HC being oxidised to form H
2O and CO2and (in the three-way type of catalytic
converter) NO
xbeing reduced to N2. Note :
The catalytic converter is not a filter in the
physical sense; its function is to promote a
chemical reaction, but it is not itself affected
by that reaction. The converter consists of an element (or
“substrate”) of ceramic honeycomb, coated
with a combination of precious metals in such
a way as to produce a vast surface area over
which the exhaust gases must flow; the whole
being mounted in a stainless-steel box. A
simple “oxidation” (or “two-way”) catalytic
converter can deal with CO and HC only,
while a “reduction” (or “three-way”) catalytic
converter can deal with CO, HC and NO
x.
Three-way catalytic converters are further
sub-divided into “open-loop” (or
“unregulated”) converters, which can remove
50 to 70% of pollutants and “closed-loop”
(also known as “controlled” or “regulated”)
converters, which can remove over 90% of
pollutants.
In order for a closed-loop catalytic
converter to operate effectively, the air/fuel
mixture must be very accurately controlled,
and this is achieved by measuring the oxygen
content of the exhaust gas. The oxygen
sensor transmits information on the exhaust
gas oxygen content to the EEC IV engine management module, which adjusts the
air/fuel mixture strength accordingly.
The sensor has a built-in heating element
which is controlled by the EEC IV module, in
order to bring the sensor’s tip to an efficient
operating temperature as rapidly as possible.
The sensor’s tip is sensitive to oxygen, and
sends the module a varying voltage
depending on the amount of oxygen in the
exhaust gases; if the inlet air/fuel mixture is
too rich, the sensor sends a high-voltage
signal. The voltage falls as the mixture
weakens. Peak conversion efficiency of all
major pollutants occurs if the inlet air/fuel
mixture is maintained at the chemically-
correct ratio for the complete combustion of
petrol - 14.7 parts (by weight) of air to 1 part
of fuel (the “stoichiometric” ratio). The sensor
output voltage alters in a large step at this
point, the module using the signal change as
a reference point, and correcting the inlet
air/fuel mixture accordingly by altering the fuel
injector pulse width (injector opening time). Removal and refitting procedures for
the oxygen sensor are given in Parts B, C
and D of this Chapter according to fuel
system type.
2 Exhaust system - renewal
2
Warning: Inspection and repair
of exhaust system components
should be done only after
enough time has elapsed after
driving the vehicle to allow the system
components to cool completely. This
applies particularly to the catalytic
converter, which runs at very high
temperatures. Also, when working under
the vehicle, make sure it is securely
supported on axle stands.
If the exhaust system components are
extremely corroded or rusted together, they
will probably have to be cut from the exhaust
system. The most convenient way of
accomplishing this is to have a quick-fit
exhaust repair specialist remove the corroded
sections. Alternatively, you can simply cut off
the old components with a hacksaw. If you do
decide to tackle the job at home, be sure to
wear eye protection, to protect your eyes from
metal chips, and work gloves, to protect your
hands. If the production-fit system is still
fitted, it must be cut for the service-
replacement system sections to fit. The best
way of determining the correct cutting point is
to obtain the new centre or rear section first
then, with the old system removed, lay the
two side by side on the ground. It should now
be relatively easy to determine where the old
system needs to be cut, and it can be marked
accordingly. Remember to allow for the
overlap where the two sections will plug
together.
4E•2 Exhaust and emission control systems
1595Ford Fiesta Remakeprocarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

Ignition timing
1.4 and 1.6 litre carburettor models with distributor:For use with 4-star leaded petrol (97 RON) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12°BTDC at idle speed (vacuum pipe disconnected and plugged)
For use with unleaded petrol (95 or 98 RON) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8° BTDC at idle speed (vacuum pipe disconnected and plugged)
1.4 litre CFi fuel injection models with distributor (pre-Sept 1990) . . . . 10°BTDC at idle speed (set using STAR test equipment - refer to text)
All other models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . Totally controlled by ignition module or EEC IV engine management module
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Specifications
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Crankshaft position sensor (all engines except Zetec) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 to 4 2 to 3
Crankshaft position sensor to bracket (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 to 9 5 to 7
Crankshaft position sensor bracket to engine (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . 18 to 23 13 to 17
DIS/E-DIS ignition coil to bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 to 7 4 to 5
DIS/E-DIS ignition coil bracket to engine (all engines except Zetec) . . . 9 to 12 7 to 9
DIS/E-DIS ignition coil bracket to engine (Zetec engines) . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 23 13 to 17
5B•2 Ignition system
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
1 General information and
precautions
General information
The ignition system is responsible for
igniting the air/fuel mixture in each cylinder, at
the correct moment in relation to engine
speed and load, as the electrical spark
generated jumps the spark plug gap. The ignition system is based on feeding low
tension (LT) voltage from the battery to the
ignition coil where it is converted to high
tension (HT) voltage. The high tension voltage
is powerful enough to jump the spark plug
gap in the cylinders many times a second
under high compression pressures, providing
that the system is in good condition. A number of different ignition systems have
been fitted to Fiesta models depending on the
year of manufacture, type of fuel system fitted
and the emission level that the vehicle has
been designed to meet. Broadly speaking the
systems can be sub-divided into two
categories - distributor ignition systems and
distributorless ignition systems. One version of the distributor ignition
system is fitted to all CVH engines with
carburettors. A second (more sophisticated)
version is fitted to pre-September 1990 CVH
engines with CFi fuel injection. Distributorless ignition systems are fitted to
all HCS, PTE and Zetec engines, and to all
CVH engines with fuel injection except pre-
September 1990 CFi versions.
Distributor ignition systems (CVH
engines with carburettor)
The ignition system is divided into two
circuits; low tension (primary) and high
tension (secondary). The low tension circuit
consists of the battery, ignition switch, coil
primary windings, ignition amplifier module
and the signal generating system inside the distributor. The signal generating system
comprises the trigger coil, trigger wheel,
stator, permanent magnet and trigger coil to
ignition amplifier module connector. The high
tension circuit consists of the coil secondary
windings, the HT lead from the coil to the
distributor cap, the distributor cap, the rotor
arm, the HT leads from the distributor cap to
the spark plugs and the spark plugs
themselves.
When the system is in operation, low
tension voltage is changed in the coil into high
tension voltage by the action of the electronic
amplifier module in conjunction with the signal
generating system. Any change in the
magnetic field force (flux), created by the
movement of the trigger wheel relative to the
magnet, induces a voltage in the trigger coil.
This voltage is passed to the ignition amplifier
module which switches off the ignition coil
primary circuit. This results in the collapse of
the magnetic field in the coil which
generates the high tension voltage. The high
tension voltage is then fed, via the coil HT
lead and the carbon brush in the centre of the
distributor cap, to the rotor arm. The voltage
passes across to the appropriate metal
segment in the cap and via the spark plug HT
lead to the spark plug where it finally jumps
the spark plug gap to earth. The distributor is driven by an offset drive
dog locating to a correspondingly offset slot
in the end of the camshaft.
The ignition advance is a function of the
distributor and is controlled both mechanically
and by a vacuum operated system. The
mechanical governor mechanism consists of
two weights which move out from the
distributor shaft as the engine speed rises due
to centrifugal force. As they move outwards,
they rotate the trigger wheel relative to the
distributor shaft and so advance the spark.
The weights are held in position by two light
springs and it is the tension of the springs
which is largely responsible for correct spark
advancement. The vacuum control consists of a
diaphragm, one side of which is connected
via a small bore hose to the carburettor or
throttle housing, and the other side to the
distributor. Depression in the inlet manifold
and/or carburettor, which varies with engine
speed and throttle position, causes the
diaphragm to move, so moving the stator and
advancing or retarding the spark. A fine
degree of control is achieved by a spring in
the diaphragm assembly. Additionally, one or more vacuum valve
may be incorporated in the vacuum line
between the inlet manifold or carburettor and
the distributor. The function of these is to
control the vacuum felt at the distributor and
to prevent fuel entering along the vacuum line
(as applicable).
Distributor ignition systems (pre-
September 1990 CVH engines with
CFi fuel injection)
The ignition system is divided into two
circuits; low tension (primary) and high
tension (secondary). The low tension circuit
consists of the battery, ignition switch, ignition
module, ballast resistor, coil primary windings
and “Hall effect” distributor. The high tension
circuit consists of the coil secondary
windings, coil-to-distributor cap HT lead,
distributor cap, rotor arm, spark plug HT leads
and spark plugs. The system is under the
overall control of the EEC IV engine
management module which also controls the
fuel injection and emission control equipment. When the system is in operation the
distributor supplies the EEC IV module with a
crankshaft position reference signal to enable
an initial ignition timing setting to be
established. This signal is generated by
means of a trigger vane attached to the
distributor shaft and which rotates in the gap
between a permanent magnet and a sensor.
The trigger vane has four cut-outs, one for
each cylinder. When one of the trigger vane
cut-outs is in line with the sensor, magnetic
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

flux can pass between the magnet and the
sensor. When a trigger vane segment is in line
with the sensor, the magnetic flux is diverted
through the trigger vane, away from the
sensor. The sensor detects the change in
magnetic flux and sends an impulse to the
EEC IV module. Additional data is received
from the engine coolant temperature sensor,
manifold absolute pressure sensor, inlet air
temperature sensor, throttle position sensor
and vehicle speed sensor. Using this
information the EEC IV module calculates the
optimum ignition advance setting and
switches off the low tension circuit via the
ignition module. This results in the collapse of
the magnetic field in the coil which generates
the high tension voltage. The high tension
voltage is then fed, via the coil HT lead and
the carbon brush in the centre of the
distributor cap, to the rotor arm. The voltage
passes across to the appropriate metal
segment in the cap and via the spark plug HT
lead to the spark plug where it finally jumps
the spark plug gap to earth. It can be seen
that the ignition module functions basically as
a high current switch by controlling the low
tension supply to the ignition coil primary
windings.In the event of failure of a sensor, the
EEC IV module will substitute a preset value
for that input to allow the system to continue
to function. In the event of failure of the
EEC IV module, a “limited operation strategy”
(LOS) function allows the vehicle to be driven,
albeit at reduced power and efficiency. The
EEC IV module also has a “keep alive
memory” (KAM) function which stores idle and
drive values and codes which can be used to
indicate any system fault which may occur.
Distributorless ignition systems
The main ignition system components
include the ignition switch, the battery, the
crankshaft speed/position sensor, the ignition
module, the coil, the primary (low tension/LT)
and secondary (high tension/HT) wiring
circuits, and the spark plugs. The system used on carburettor models is
termed DIS (Distributorless Ignition System),
and on fuel injection models E-DIS, (Electronic
Distributorless Ignition System). The primary
difference between the two is that the DIS
system is an independent ignition control
system while the E-DIS system operates in
conjunction with the EEC IV engine
management module which also controls the
fuel injection and emission control systems.
With both systems, the main functions of
the distributor are replaced by a computerised
ignition module and a coil unit. The coil unit
combines a double-ended pair of coils - each
time a coil receives an ignition signal, two
sparks are produced, at each end of the
secondary windings. One spark goes to a
cylinder on compression stroke and the other
goes to the corresponding cylinder on its
exhaust stroke. The first will give the correct power stroke, but the second spark will have
no effect (a “wasted spark”), occurring as it
does during exhaust conditions.
The ignition signal is generated by a
crankshaft position sensor which scans a
series of 36 protrusions on the periphery of
the engine flywheel. The inductive head of the
crankshaft position sensor runs just above the
flywheel periphery and as the crankshaft
rotates, the sensor transmits a pulse to the
ignition module every time a protrusion
passes it. There is one missing protrusion in
the flywheel periphery at a point
corresponding to 90° BTDC. The ignition
module recognises the absence of a pulse
from the crankshaft position sensor at this
point to establish a reference mark for
crankshaft position. Similarly, the time interval
between absent pulses is used to determine
engine speed. On carburettor engines, the ignition module
receives signals provided by information
sensors which monitor various engine
functions (such as crankshaft position,
coolant temperature, inlet air temperature,
inlet manifold vacuum etc). This information
allows the ignition module to generate the
optimum ignition timing setting under all
operating conditions.
On fuel injection engines, the ignition
module operates in conjunction with the
EEC IV engine management module, and
together with the various additional
information sensors and emission control
components, provides total control of the fuel
and ignition systems to form a complete
engine management package. The information contained in this Chapter
concentrates on the ignition-related
components of the engine management
system. Information covering the fuel, exhaust
and emission control components can be
found in the applicable Parts of Chapter 4.
Precautions
When working on the ignition system, take
the following precautions:
a) Do not keep the ignition switch on for
more than 10 seconds if the engine will
not start.
b) If a separate tachometer is ever required
for servicing work, consult a dealer
service department before buying a
tachometer for use with this vehicle -
some tachometers may be incompatible
with these types of ignition systems - and
always connect it in accordance with the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
c) Never connect the ignition coil terminals to earth. This could result in damage to
the coil and/or the ignition module.
d) Do not disconnect the battery when the
engine is running.
e) Make sure that the ignition module is
properly earthed.
f) Refer to the warning at the beginning of the next Section concerning HT voltage.
2 Ignition system - testing
2
Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system are
considerably higher than those
produced by conventional
ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with
the ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep well clear of the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.
Note: Refer to the precautions given in
Section 1 of Part A of this Chapter before
starting work. Always switch off the ignition
before disconnecting or connecting any
component and when using a multi-meter to
check resistances.
1 If the engine turns over but won’t start,
disconnect the (HT) lead from any spark plug,
and attach it to a calibrated tester (available at
most automotive accessory shops). Connect
the clip on the tester to a good earth - a bolt
or metal bracket on the engine. If you’re
unable to obtain a calibrated ignition tester,
have the check carried out by a Ford dealer
service department or similar. Any other form
of testing (such as jumping a spark from the
end of an HT lead to earth) is not
recommended, because of the risk of
personal injury, or of damage to the ignition
module.
2 Crank the engine, and watch the end of the
tester to see if bright blue, well-defined sparks
occur.
3 If sparks occur, sufficient voltage is
reaching the plug to fire it. Repeat the
check at the remaining plugs, to ensure
that all leads are sound and that the
coil is serviceable. However, the plugs
themselves may be fouled or faulty, so
remove and check them as described in
Chapter 1.
4 If no sparks or intermittent sparks occur,
the spark plug lead(s) may be defective. Also,
on distributor systems, there may be
problems with the rotor arm or distributor cap
- check all these components as described in
Chapter 1.
5 If there’s still no spark, check the coil’s
electrical connector (where applicable), to
make sure it’s clean and tight. Check for full
battery voltage to the coil at the connector’s
centre terminal. Check the coil itself (see
Section 3). Make any necessary repairs, then
repeat the check again.
6 The remainder of the system checks should
be left to a dealer service department
or other qualified repair facility, as there is a
chance that the ignition module may
be damaged if tests are not performed
properly.
Ignition system 5B•3
5B
1595Ford Fiesta Remakeprocarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

3 Ignition coil- checking,
removal and refitting
2
Distributor ignition systems
Checking
1 Accurate checking of the coil output
requires the use of special test equipment and
should be left to a dealer or suitably equipped
automotive electrician. It is however possible
to check the primary and secondary winding
resistance using an ohmmeter as follows.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
3 Remove the vehicle jack from its storage
position by unscrewing its retainer. The
ignition coil is mounted below.
4 To check the primary resistance (with all
leads disconnected if the coil is fitted),
connect the ohmmeter across the coil positive
and negative terminals. The resistance should
be as given in the Specificationsat the
beginning of this Chapter.
5 To check the secondary resistance (with all
leads disconnected if the coil is fitted),
connect one lead from the ohmmeter to the
coil negative terminal, and the other lead to
the centre HT terminal. Again the resistance
should be as given in the Specifications.
6 If any of the measured values vary
significantly from the figures given in the
Specifications , the coil should be renewed.
7 If a new coil is to be fitted, ensure that it is
of the correct type. The appropriate Ford
supplied ignition coil is identified by a red
label, and will be one of three different makes,
all of which are fully interchangeable. Bosch
and Femsa coils are fitted with protective
plastic covers, and Polmot coils are fitted with
an internal fusible link. Note that contact
breaker ignition coils are not interchangeable
with the required breakerless type and could
cause ignition module failure if used.
Removal
8 If not already done, remove the vehicle jack from its storage position by unscrewing its
retainer. The ignition coil is mounted below.
9
Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
10 Disconnect the HT lead and the low
tension (LT) connections from the ignition coil.
Note that the LT connections on the ignition
coil are of different sizes. As an aid to refitting
the positive (+) terminal is larger than the
negative (-) terminal (see illustration).
11 Remove the two screws or bolts securing
the coil mounting bracket to the inner wing
panel, and withdraw the coil and mounting
bracket assembly.
Refitting
12 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, ensuring correct LT lead polarity.
Distributorless ignition systems
Checking
Note: The ignition coil is located on the rear
facing side of the cylinder block on HCS
engines; on the left-hand end of the cylinder
head on CVH, PTE and Zetec engines.
13 Having checked that full battery voltage is
available at the centre terminal of the coil’s
electrical connector (see Section 2),
disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Part A, Section 1).
14 Unplug the coil’s electrical connector, if
not already disconnected.
15 Using an ohmmeter, measure the
resistance of the coil’s primary windings,
connecting the meter between the coil’s
terminal pins as follows. Measure first from
one outer pin to the centre pin, then from the
other outer pin to the centre. Compare the
readings with the coil primary resistance listed
in the Specifications .
16 Disconnect the spark plug (HT) leads -
note their connections or label them carefully,
as described in Chapter 1. Use the meter to
check that there is continuity between each
pair of (HT) lead terminals; Nos 1 and 4
terminals are connected by their secondary
winding, as are Nos 2 and 3. Now switch to the highest resistance scale, and check that
there is no continuity between either pair of
terminals and the other - ie, there should be
infinite resistance between terminals 1 and 2,
or 4 and 3 - and between any terminal and
earth.
17
If either of the above tests yield resistance
values outside the specified amount, or
results other than those described, renew the
coil. Any further testing should be left to a
dealer service department or other qualified
repair facility.
Removal
Note: The ignition coil is located on the rear
facing side of the cylinder block on HCS
engines; on the left-hand end of the cylinder
head on CVH, PTE and Zetec engines.
18 Disconnect the battery negative (earth)
lead (refer to Part A, Section 1).
19 Disconnect the coil main electrical
connector and (where fitted) the electrical
connector to the suppressor.
20 The coil can be removed with the HT
leads left attached, in which case disconnect
the leads from their respective spark plugs
and from the location clips in the rocker cover
or air inlet duct (as applicable). If preferred,
the HT leads can be disconnected from the
coil. First check that both the ignition HT
leads and their fitted positions are clearly
marked numerically to ensure correct refitting.
Spot mark them accordingly if necessary,
using quick-drying paint.
21 If disconnecting the leads from the spark
plugs, pull them free by gripping on the
connector, not the lead. To detach the leads
from the ignition coil, compress the retaining
arms of each lead connector at the coil, and
detach each lead in turn (see illustration).
22 Unscrew the Torx-type retaining screws,
and remove the coil from its mounting on the
engine (see illustration) .
Refitting
23Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. Ensure that the spark plug (HT)
leads are correctly reconnected, and tighten
the coil screws securely.
5B•4 Ignition system
3.22 Distributorless ignition system ignition coil and mounting bracket removal (HCS engine shown)3.21 Removing an HT lead from the
distributorless ignition system ignition coil. Note the corresponding markings on the ignition coil and HT lead (arrowed)3.10 Ignition coil fitted to distributor
ignition systems
A Retaining bolts
B LT connections
C HT lead to distributor cap
1595Ford Fiesta Remakeprocarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
The jack supplied with the vehicle tool kit
should only be used for changing the
roadwheels - see “Wheel changing” at the
front of this manual. When jacking up the
vehicle to carry out repair or maintenance
tasks, a pillar or trolley type jack of suitable
lifting capacity must be used, supplemented
with axle stands positioned only beneath the
appropriate points under the vehicle (see
illustration) . Note that the vehicle must never
be jacked up at the rear under the axle beam. The maximum kerb weight of the vehicle must
not be exceeded when jacking and supporting
the vehicle. Do not under any circumstances
jack up the rear of the vehicle under the rear axle.
Never work under, around or near a raised
vehicle unless it is adequately supported in at
least two places with axle stands.
The radio/cassette unit fitted as standard or
optional equipment may be equipped with a
built-in security code, to deter thieves. If the
power source to the unit is cut, the anti-theft
system will activate. Even if the power source
is immediately reconnected, the radio/
cassette unit will not function until the correct security code has been entered. Therefore,
if you do not know the correct security
code for the radio/cassette unit do not
disconnect either of the battery terminals, or
remove the radio/cassette unit from the
vehicle. To enter the correct security code, follow the instructions provided with the
radio/cassette player or vehicle handbook.
If an incorrect code is entered, the unit will
become locked, and cannot be operated.
If this happens, or if the security code is lost
or forgotten, seek the advice of your Ford
dealer.
Jacking and vehicle supportREF•5
REF
Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution
Underside view of the vehicle showing the jacking point locations
A Jacking points for trolley jack (always use a suitable block
of wood to protect the
vehicle body)
B Axle stand positions
C Jacking points for owner jack and wheel-free hoist
Buying spare parts
Spare parts are available from many
sources, including maker’s appointed
garages, accessory shops, and motor factors.
To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, it
will sometimes be necessary to quote the
vehicle identification number. If possible, it
can also be useful to take the old parts along
for positive identification. Items such as
starter motors and alternators may be
available under a service exchange scheme -
any parts returned should always be clean.
Our advice regarding spare part sources is
as follows.
Officially-appointed garages
This is the best source of parts which are
peculiar to your car, and which are not
otherwise generally available (eg badges,
interior trim, certain body panels, etc). It is
also the only place at which you should buy
parts if the vehicle is still under warranty.
Accessory shops
These are very good places to buy materials and components needed for the
maintenance of your car (oil, air and fuel
filters, spark plugs, light bulbs, drivebelts, oils
and greases, brake pads, touch-up paint, etc).
Components of this nature sold by a
reputable shop are of the same standard as
those used by the car manufacturer.
Besides components, these shops also sell
tools and general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices, and can often be found not far from
home. Some accessory shops have parts
counters where the components needed for
almost any repair job can be purchased or
ordered.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components which wear out
comparatively quickly, and can sometimes
supply individual components needed for the
overhaul of a larger assembly (eg brake seals
and hydraulic parts, bearing shells, pistons,
valves, alternator brushes). They may also
handle work such as cylinder block reboring,
crankshaft regrinding and balancing, etc.
Tyre and exhaust specialists
These outlets may be independent, or
members of a local or national chain. They
frequently offer competitive prices when
compared with a main dealer or local garage,
but it will pay to obtain several quotes before
making a decision. When researching prices,
also ask what “extras” may be added - for
instance, fitting a new valve and balancing the
wheel are both commonly charged on top of
the price of a new tyre.
Other sources
Beware of parts or materials obtained from
market stalls, car boot sales or similar outlets.
Such items are not invariably sub-standard,
but there is little chance of compensation if
they do prove unsatisfactory. In the case of
safety-critical components such as brake
pads, there is the risk not only of financial loss
but also of an accident causing injury or
death. Second-hand components or assemblies
obtained from a car breaker can be a good
buy in some circumstances, but this sort of
purchase is best made by the experienced
DIY mechanic.
Buying spare parts
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su

1595 Ford Fiesta Remake
REF•18Fault finding
Braking system
Note:Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure that the
tyres are in good condition and correctly inflated, that the front wheel\
alignment is correct, and that the vehicle is not loaded with weight in \
an
unequal manner. Apart from checking the condition of all pipe and
hose connections, any faults occurring on the Anti-lock Braking System
(ABS) should be referred to a Ford dealer for diagnosis.
Vehicle pulls to one side under braking
m m Worn, defective, damaged or contaminated front or rear brake
pads/shoes on one side (Chapter 1).
m m Seized or partially-seized front or rear brake caliper/wheel cylinder
piston (Chapter 9).
m m A mixture of brake pad/shoe lining materials fitted between sides
Chapter 1).
m m Brake caliper mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
m
m Rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose (Chapter 9).
m
m Worn or damaged steering or suspension components (Chap-
ter 10).
Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when
brakes applied
m mBrake pad or shoe friction lining material worn down to metal
backing Chapter 1).
m m Excessive corrosion of brake disc or drum (may be apparent after
the vehicle has been standing for some time) (Chapter 1).
Excessive brake pedal travel
m mInoperative rear brake self-adjust mechanism (Chapter 9).
m
m Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
m
m Air in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).
Rear wheels locking under normal braking
m
mRear brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapter 1).
m
m Faulty brake pressure regulator (Chapter 9).
Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m
mAir in hydraulic system (Chapter 9).
m
m Deteriorated flexible rubber brake hoses (Chapter 9).
m
m Master cylinder mounting nuts loose (Chapter 9).
m
m Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop
vehicle
m mFaulty vacuum servo unit (Chapter 9).
m
m Disconnected, damaged or insecure brake servo vacuum hose
(Chapter 9).
m m Primary or secondary hydraulic circuit failure (Chapter 9).
m
m Seized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).
m
m Brake pads or brake shoes incorrectly fitted (Chapter 9).
m
m Incorrect grade of brake pads or brake shoes fitted (Chapter 1).
m
m Brake pads or brake shoe linings contaminated (Chapter 1).
Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel
when braking
m mExcessive run-out or distortion of front discs or rear drums
Chapter 9).
m m Brake pad or brake shoe linings worn (Chapter 1).
m
m Brake caliper or rear brake backplate mounting bolts loose
(Chapter 9).
m m Wear in suspension or steering components or mountings
(Chapter 10).
Brakes binding
m mSeized brake caliper or wheel cylinder piston(s) (Chapter 9).
m
m Faulty handbrake mechanism (Chapter 9).
m
m Faulty master cylinder (Chapter 9).
Automatic transmission
Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist.
Fluid leakage
m m Automatic transmission fluid is usually deep red in colour. Fluid
leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be
blown onto the transmission by airflow.
m m To determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas, using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
a) Transmission fluid sump (Chapters 1 and 7B).
b) Dipstick tube (Chapters 1 and 7B).
c) Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
d) Speedometer drive pinion O-ring.
e) Differential output fluid seals (Chapter 7B).
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m m Transmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).\
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
m mStarter inhibitor switch faulty (Chapter 7B).
m
m Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
General gear selection problems
m
mChapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable
on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems
which may be caused by a poorly-adjusted cable:
a) Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b) Indicator on gear selector lever pointing to a gear other than the
one actually being used.
c) Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d) Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
Refer to Chapter 7B for the selector cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
m m Low transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
m
m Incorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
m
m Engine management system fault (Chapters 1, 4A, 4B, 4C, 4D, 4E
or 5B).
Transmission slips, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
m mThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid if needed. If the problem persists, professional
help will be necessary.
procarmanuals.com
http://vnx.su