1989 FORD FIESTA fuel pump

12After removal, reassemble the big-end
bearing caps and shells on their respective
connecting rods, and refit the bolts finger-
tight. Leaving the old shells in place until
reassembly will help prevent the bearing
recesses from being accidentally nicked or
gouged. New shells should be used on
reassembly.
Inspection
13 Before the inspection process can begin,
the piston/connecting rod assemblies must
be cleaned, and the original piston rings
removed from the pistons.
14 Carefully expand the old rings over the top
of the pistons. The use of two or three old feeler
blades will be helpful in preventing the rings
dropping into empty grooves (see illustration).
Be careful not to scratch the piston with the
ends of the ring. The rings are brittle, and will
snap if they are spread too far. They are also
very sharp - protect your hands and fingers.
Note that the third ring may incorporate an
expander. Always remove the rings from the top
of the piston. Keep each set of rings with its
piston if the old rings are to be re-used.
15 Scrape away all traces of carbon from the
top of the piston. A hand-held wire brush (or a
piece of fine emery cloth) can be used, once
the majority of the deposits have been
scraped away.
16 Remove the carbon from the ring grooves
in the piston using an old ring. Break the ring
in half to do this (be careful not to cut your
fingers - piston rings are sharp). Be careful to
remove only the carbon deposits - do not
remove any metal, and do not nick or scratch
the sides of the ring grooves.
17 Once the deposits have been removed,
clean the piston/connecting rod assembly
with paraffin or a suitable solvent, and dry
thoroughly. Make sure that the oil return holes
in the ring grooves are clear.
18 If the pistons and cylinder liners/bores are
not damaged or worn excessively, the original
pistons can be refitted. Normal piston wear
shows up as even vertical wear on the piston
thrust surfaces, and slight looseness of the
top ring in its groove. New piston rings should
always be used when the engine is
reassembled. 19
Carefully inspect each piston for cracks
around the skirt, around the gudgeon pin
holes, and at the piston ring “lands” (between
the ring grooves).
20 Look for scoring and scuffing on the
piston skirt, holes in the piston crown, and
burned areas at the edge of the crown. If the
skirt is scored or scuffed, the engine may
have been suffering from overheating, and/or
abnormal combustion which caused
excessively high operating temperatures. The
cooling and lubrication systems should be
checked thoroughly. Scorch marks on the
sides of the pistons show that blow-by has
occurred. A hole in the piston crown, or
burned areas at the edge of the piston crown,
indicates that abnormal combustion (pre-
ignition, knocking, or detonation) has been
occurring. If any of the above problems exist,
the causes must be investigated and
corrected, or the damage will occur again.
The causes may include incorrect ignition
timing, or a carburettor or fuel injection
system fault.
21 Corrosion of the piston, in the form of
pitting, indicates that coolant has been
leaking into the combustion chamber and/or
the crankcase. Again, the cause must be
corrected, or the problem may persist in the
rebuilt engine.
22 Check the piston-to-rod clearance by
twisting the piston and rod in opposite
directions. Any noticeable play indicates
excessive wear, which must be corrected. The
piston/connecting rod assemblies should be
taken to a Ford dealer or engine
reconditioning specialist to have the pistons,
gudgeon pins and rods checked, and new
components fitted as required.
23 Don’t attempt to separate the pistons
from the connecting rods (even if non-genuine
replacements are found elsewhere). This is a
task for a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist, due to the special
heating equipment, press, mandrels and
supports required to do the job. If the
piston/connecting rod assemblies do require
this sort of work, have the connecting rods
checked for bend and twist, since only such
engine repair specialists will have the facilities
for this purpose. 24
Check the connecting rods for cracks and
other damage. Also on CVH engines, check
that the oilway in the base of the connecting
rod is clear by probing with a piece of wire
(see illustration) . Temporarily remove the
big-end bearing caps and the old bearing
shells, wipe clean the rod and cap bearing
recesses, and inspect them for nicks, gouges
and scratches. After checking the rods,
replace the old shells, slip the caps into place,
and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
12 Crankshaft -
removal and inspection
4
Removal
Note: The crankshaft can be removed only
after the engine has been removed from the
vehicle. It is assumed that the transmission,
flywheel/driveplate, timing belt/chain, cylinder
head, sump, oil pump pick-up/strainer, oil
baffle, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod
assemblies, have already been removed. The
crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier/housing
must be unbolted from the cylinder
block/crankcase before proceeding with
crankshaft removal.
1 Before the crankshaft is removed, check
the endfloat. Mount a DTI (Dial Test Indicator,
or dial gauge) with the stem in line with the
crankshaft and just touching the crankshaft
(see illustration) .
2 Push the crankshaft fully away from the
gauge, and zero it. Next, lever the crankshaft
towards the gauge as far as possible, and
check the reading obtained. The distance that
the crankshaft moved is its endfloat; if it is
greater than specified, check the crankshaft
thrust surfaces for wear. If no wear is evident,
new thrustwashers should correct the
endfloat.
3 If no dial gauge is available, feeler gauges
can be used. Gently lever or push the
crankshaft all the way towards the right-hand
end of the engine. Slip feeler gauges between
the crankshaft and the main bearing
incorporating the thrustwashers to determine
the clearance.
2D•18 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
12.1 Checking crankshaft endfloat with a dial gauge11.24 Check that the connecting rodoilway on CVH engines is clear11.14 Using feeler gauge blades to remove piston rings
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necessary for reassembly of the engine are at
hand. In addition to all normal tools and
materials, jointing and thread locking
compound will be needed during engine
reassembly. For general-purpose applications,
it is recommended that Loctite 275 setting
sealer or Hylomar PL32M non-setting sealer
be used for joints where required, and
Loctite 270 for stud and bolt thread-locking.
For specific applications on Zetec engines,
Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcase-
to-sump/oil pump/oil seal carrier joints, and
Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-hand
bearing caps should be used. These are
recommended by, and obtained from, Ford
dealers. In all other cases, provided the
relevant mating surfaces are clean and flat,
new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure joints
are oil-tight. Do notuse any kind of silicone-
based sealant on any part of the fuel system or
inlet manifold, and neveruse exhaust sealants
upstream of the catalytic converter.
2 In order to save time and avoid problems,
engine reassembly can be carried out in the
following order (as applicable).
a) Engine ventilation cap (CVH and PTE engines).
b) Tappets and camshaft (HCS engines).
c) Crankshaft and main bearings.
d) Pistons and connecting rods.
e) Oil pump.
f) Sump.
g) Flywheel/driveplate.
h) Cylinder head.
i) Timing sprockets and chain/belt.
j) Engine external components.
3 Ensure that everything is clean prior to
reassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt and
metal particles can quickly destroy bearings
and result in major engine damage. Use clean
engine oil to lubricate during reassembly.
16 Piston rings - refitting
2
1Before installing new piston rings, check
the end gaps. Lay out each piston set with a
piston/connecting rod assembly, and keep them together as a matched set from now on.
2
Insert the top compression ring into the first
cylinder, and square it up with the cylinder
walls by pushing it in with the top of the
piston. The ring should be near the bottom of
the cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.
3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges
between the ends of the ring, until a gauge
equal to the gap width is found. The feeler
gauge should slide between the ring ends
with a slight amount of drag. Compare the
measurement to the value given in the
Specifications in this Chapter; if the gap is
larger or smaller than specified, double-check to make sure you have the correct rings
before proceeding. If you are assessing the
condition of used rings, have the cylinder
bores checked and measured by a Ford
dealer or similar engine reconditioning
specialist, so that you can be sure of exactly
which component is worn, and seek advice as
to the best course of action to take.
4 If the end gap is still too small, it must be
opened up by careful filing of the ring ends
using a fine file. If it is too large, this is not as
serious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,
in which case very careful checking is
required of the dimensions of all components,
as well as of the new parts.
5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that will
be installed in the first cylinder, and for each
ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to
keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up.
6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where the
original rings are being refitted, use the marks
or notes made on removal, to ensure that
each ring is refitted to its original groove and
the same way up. New rings generally have
their top surfaces identified by markings
(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, or
the word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted with
such markings uppermost (see illustration) .
Note: Always follow the instructions printed
on the ring package or box - different
manufacturers may require different
approaches. Do not mix up the top and
second compression rings, as they usually
have different cross-sections.
7 The oil control ring (lowest one on the
piston) is usually installed first. It is composed
of three separate elements. Slip the
spacer/expander into the groove. If an
anti- rotation tang is used, make sure it is
inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove.
Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use a
piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side
rails, as they may be damaged. Instead, place
one end of the side rail into the groove
between the spacer/expander and the ring
land, hold it firmly in place, and slide a finger
around the piston while pushing the rail into
the groove. Next, install the upper side rail in
the same manner.
8 After the three oil ring components have
been installed, check that both the upper and
lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the
ring groove.
9 The second compression (middle) ring is installed next, followed by the top
compression ring - ensure their marks are
uppermost, and be careful not to confuse
them. Don’t expand either ring any more than
necessary to slide it over the top of the piston.
10
On HCS engines, when all of the rings are
fitted to each piston, arrange them so that the
gaps are positioned as described in the
Specifications at the start of this Chapter.
11 On the CVH and PTE engines, when all of
the rings are fitted to each piston, arrange
them so that the gaps are spaced at 120º
intervals, with no gaps positioned above the
gudgeon pin hole.
12 On Zetec engines, when all the rings are
fitted to each piston, space the ring gaps
(including the elements of the oil control ring)
uniformly around the piston at 120º intervals.
17 Crankshaft - refitting and
main bearing running
clearance check
4
1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinder
block/crankcase and crankshaft have been
cleaned, inspected and repaired or
reconditioned as necessary. Position the
engine upside-down.
2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, and lift
out the caps. Lay the caps out in the proper
order, to ensure correct installation.
3 If they’re still in place, remove the old
bearing shells from the block and the main
bearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses of
the block and caps with a clean, lint-free
cloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!
Main bearing running clearance
check
HCS engines
4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that the upper shells have grooves in
them (the lower shells are plain, and have a
wider location lug). Where the old main
bearings are being refitted, ensure that they
are located in their original positions. Make
sure that the tab on each bearing shell fits into
the notch in the block or cap.
Caution: Don’t hammer the shells into
place, and don’t nick or gouge the bearing
faces. No lubrication should be used at
this time.
5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers into
position in the crankcase, so that their oil
grooves are facing outwards (away from the
central web) (see illustration) .
CVH and PTE engines
6Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats in
the crankcase, and clean the backs of the
bearing shells. Insert the respective upper
shells (dry) into position in the crankcase.
Note that with the exception of the front main
bearing, the upper shells have grooves in
2D•22 Engine removal and overhaul procedures
16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -
indicating a standard-sized ring - shown
here) identifying piston ring top surface
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Plastigauge to the scale printed on the
Plastigauge envelope, to obtain the running
clearance (see illustration 17.15) . Compare it
to the Specifications, to make sure the
clearance is correct.
14 If the clearance is not as specified, seek
the advice of a Ford dealer or similar engine
reconditioning specialist - if the crankshaft
journals are in good condition it may be
possible simply to renew the shells to achieve
the correct clearance. If this is not possible,
the crankshaft must be reground by a
specialist, who can also supply the necessary
undersized shells. First though, make sure
that no dirt or oil was trapped between the
bearing shells and the connecting rod or cap
when the clearance was measured. Also,
recheck the crankpin diameter. If the
Plastigauge was wider at one end than the
other, the crankpin journal may be tapered.
15 Carefully scrape all traces of the
Plastigauge material off the journal and the
bearing surface. Be very careful not to scratch
the bearing - use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card.
Final piston/connecting rod
refitting
16 Make sure the bearing surfaces are
perfectly clean, then apply a uniform layer of
clean molybdenum disulphide-based grease,
engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil,
to both of them. You’ll have to push the piston
into the cylinder to expose the bearing surface
of the shell in the connecting rod.
17 Slide the connecting rod back into place
on the crankpin (big-end) journal, refit the big-
end bearing cap, and then tighten the bolts as
described above.
18 Repeat the entire procedure for the
remaining piston/connecting rod assemblies.
19 The important points to remember are:
a) Keep the backs of the bearing shells and the recesses of the connecting rods and
caps perfectly clean when assembling
them.
b) Make sure you have the correct
piston/rod assembly for each cylinder -
use the etched cylinder numbers to
identify the front-facing side of both the
rod and its cap.
c) The arrow on the piston crown must face the timing belt/chain end of the engine.
d) Lubricate the cylinder bores with clean
engine oil.
e) Lubricate the bearing surfaces when refitting the big-end bearing caps after the
running clearance has been checked. 20
After all the piston/connecting rod
assemblies have been properly installed,
rotate the crankshaft a number of times by
hand, to check for any obvious binding.
21 On HCS engines, if the oil pick-up pipe
and strainer was removed, this is a good time
to refit it. First clean the joint area, then coat
the area indicated with the specified activator
(available from Ford dealers) (see
illustration) . Wait for a period of ten minutes,
then smear the shaded area with the specified
adhesive and immediately press the inlet pipe
into position in the crankcase.
19 Engine - initial start-up after
overhaul
1
1 With the engine refitted in the vehicle,
double-check the engine oil and coolant
levels. Make a final check that everything has
been reconnected, and that there are no tools
or rags left in the engine compartment.
2 With the spark plugs removed and the
ignition system disabled by unplugging the
ignition coil’s electrical connector, remove the
fuel pump fuse (fuel injection engines) to
disconnect the fuel pump (see Chapter 12).
Turn the engine on the starter until the oil
pressure warning light goes out.
3 Refit the spark plugs, and connect all the
spark plug (HT) leads (Chapter 1). Reconnect
the ignition coil. On fuel injection engines, refit the fuel pump fuse, switch on the ignition and
listen for the fuel pump; it will run for a little
longer than usual, due to the lack of pressure
in the system.
4
Start the engine, noting that this also may
take a little longer than usual, due to the fuel
system components being empty.
5 While the engine is idling, check for fuel,
coolant and oil leaks. Don’t be alarmed if
there are some odd smells and smoke from
parts getting hot and burning off oil deposits.
If the hydraulic tappets (where applicable)
have been disturbed, some valve gear noise
may be heard at first; this should disappear as
the oil circulates fully around the engine, and
normal pressure is restored in the tappets.
6 Keep the engine idling until hot water is felt
circulating through the top hose, check that it
idles reasonably smoothly and at the usual
speed, then switch it off.
7 After a few minutes, recheck the oil and
coolant levels, and top-up as necessary
(Chapter 1).
8 If they were tightened as described, there is
no need to re-tighten the cylinder head bolts
once the engine has first run after reassembly
- in fact, Ford state that the bolts must notbe
re-tightened.
9 If new components such as pistons, rings
or crankshaft bearings have been fitted, the
engine must be run-in for the first 500 miles
(800 km). Do not operate the engine at full-
throttle, or allow it to labour in any gear during
this period. It is recommended that the oil and
filter be changed at the end of this period.
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•25
18.21 Oil inlet pipe refitting details on the HCS engine
A Area of sealant application - dimensions in mm
B Edge must be parallel with engine longitudinal axis
2D
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4A
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
System type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . Rear-mounted fuel tank, mechanical fuel pump, single Webercarburettor
Carburettor
Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Single or twin choke, downdraught
Application:1.0 litre HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. Weber (1V) TLM
1.1 litre HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. Weber (2V) TLDM
1.3 HCS engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . Weber (2V) TLDM
1.4 litre CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. Weber (2V) DFTM
1.6 litre CVH engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. Weber (2V) TLD
Fuel grade
Fuel octane requirement:Engines without catalytic converter* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded or 97 RON leaded
Engines with catalytic converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 RON unleaded (leaded fuel must notbe used)
*Refer to dealer for latest recommendations
Chapter 4 Part A:
Fuel system - carburettor engines
Accelerator cable (CTX automatic transmission models) -
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 4
Accelerator cable (manual transmission models) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 3
Accelerator pedal - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Accelerator pump diaphragm (Weber TLM carburettor) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Air cleaner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Air cleaner element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Automatic choke (Weber TLD carburettor) - adjustment . . . . . . . . . 33
Automatic choke (Weber TLD carburettor) - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 34
Carburettor (Weber DFTM) - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Carburettor (Weber DFTM) - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 29
Carburettor (Weber DFTM) - fast-idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . 26
Carburettor (Weber DFTM) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Carburettor (Weber TLD) - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Carburettor (Weber TLD) - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 36
Carburettor (Weber TLD) - fast-idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Carburettor (Weber TLD) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Carburettor (Weber TLDM) - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 18
Carburettor (Weber TLDM) - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and
reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 24
Carburettor (Weber TLDM) - fast-idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . 19
Carburettor (Weber TLDM) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Carburettor (Weber TLM) - description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Carburettor (Weber TLM) - dismantling, cleaning, inspection and
reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 17
Carburettor (Weber TLM) - fast-idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . . 13
Carburettor (Weber TLM) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Choke cable - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Fuel gauge sender unit - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Fuel pump - testing, removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Fuel tank - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Fuel tank filler pipe - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Fuel tank ventilation tube - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
General fuel system checks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
General information and precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Needle valve and float (Weber TLD carburettor) -
removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Needle valve and float (Weber TLDM carburettor) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Needle valve and float (Weber TLM carburettor) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Throttle kicker control solenoid (Weber TLDM carburettor) -
removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Throttle kicker unit (Weber DFTM carburettor) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Throttle kicker unit (Weber TLDM carburettor) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Underbody fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See\
Chapter 1
Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . .See Chapter 1
4A•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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Fuel pump
Delivery pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 0.24 to 0.38 bars
Carburettor data
Weber (1V) TLM carburettor - 1.0 litre HCS engines
Idle speed and mixture settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Fast-idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 3400 ± 100 rpm
Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 26.0 ± 1.0 mm
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 23 mm
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 220
Weber (2V) TLDM carburettor - 1.1 litre HCS engines
Idle speed and mixture settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Fast-idle speed:
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 2800 rpm
CTX automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2600 rpm
Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 ± 1.0 mm
Throttle kicker speed: Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1250 to 1350 rpm
CTX automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1050 to 1150 rpm
PrimarySecondary
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 26 mm 28 mm
Main jet: Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 92122
CTX automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92112
Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . F113 F75
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 195 155
Weber (2V) TLDM carburettor - 1.3 litre HCS engines
Idle speed and mixture settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Fast-idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 2500 rpmFloat height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 ± 1.0 mm
Throttle kicker speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 1900 ± 100 rpm
PrimarySecondary
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 19 mm 20 mm
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90122
Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . F113 F75
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 185 130
Weber (2V) DFTM carburettor - 1.4 litre CVH engines
Idle speed and mixture settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Fast-idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 2800 ± 100 rpm
Choke pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 2.7 to 3.2 mm
Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 ± 0.5 mm
Throttle kicker speed:
Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1300 ± 50 rpm
CTX automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1100 ± 50 rpm (in Neutral)
PrimarySecondary
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 21 mm 23 mm
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 125
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 210 155
Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . F22 F60
Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4260
Weber (2V) TLD carburettor - 1.6 litre CVH engines
Idle speed and mixture settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1 Fast-idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . 1800 ± 50 rpm (on third step of fast-idle cam)
Choke pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 4.7 ± 0.5 mm
Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 29.0 ± 0.5 mm
PrimarySecondary
Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 2123
Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 127
Emulsion tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . F105 F71
Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . 185 125
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Fuel pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 15
Inlet manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . 16 to 20 12 to 15
4A•2 Fuel system – carburettor engines
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1 General information andprecautions
General information
The fuel system on all models with
carburettor induction comprises a rear-
mounted fuel tank, a mechanical diaphragm
fuel pump, a carburettor and an air cleaner. The fuel tank is mounted at the rear, under
the floorpan behind the rear seats. The tank
has a “ventilation-to-atmosphere system”
through a combined roll-over/anti-trickle fill
valve assembly, located in the left-hand rear
wheel arch. A filler neck sensing pipe, integral
with the fuel tank filler pipe, will shut off the
petrol pump filler gun when the predetermined
maximum level of fuel is reached in the tank,
so preventing spillage and wastage. A
conventional fuel level sender unit is mounted
in the top face of the fuel tank. One of two fuel pump types will be fitted,
depending on the engine type. On HCS
engines, the fuel pump is operated by a
pivoting rocker arm; one end rests on an
eccentric lobe on the engine camshaft, and
the other end is attached to the fuel pump
diaphragm. The pump fitted to the CVH
engine is operated by a separate pushrod,
one end rests on an eccentric lobe on the
engine camshaft, and the other rests on the
pump actuating rod which operates the
diaphragm. Both types of mechanical pump
incorporate a nylon mesh filter, and are of
sealed type (they cannot be serviced or
overhauled). Four different types of Weber carburettor
are featured in the range, further details being
given in later Sections of this Chapter. The air cleaner incorporates a “waxstat”
controlled air inlet, supplying either hot air
from a shroud mounted around the exhaust
manifold, or cool air from a duct in the front of
the vehicle.
Precautions
Warning: Petrol is extremely
flammable - great care must be
taken when working on any part of the fuel system. Do not smoke or allow
any naked flames or uncovered light bulbs
near the work area. Note that gas powered
domestic appliances with pilot flames,
such as heaters, boilers and tumble
dryers, also present a fire hazard - bear
this in mind if you are working in an area
where such appliances are present.
Always keep a suitable fire extinguisher
close to the work area and familiarise
yourself with its operation before starting
work. Wear eye protection when working
on fuel systems and wash off any fuel spilt
on bare skin immediately with soap and
water. Note that fuel vapour is just as
dangerous as liquid fuel; a vessel that has
just been emptied of liquid fuel will still
contain vapour and can be potentially
explosive. Petrol is a highly dangerous and
volatile liquid, and the precautions
necessary when handling it cannot be
overstressed.
Many of the operations described in this
Chapter involve the disconnection of fuel
lines, which may cause an amount of fuel
spillage. Before commencing work, refer
to the above Warning and the information
in “Safety first” at the beginning of this
manual.
When working with fuel system
components, pay particular attention to
cleanliness - dirt entering the fuel system
may cause blockages which will lead to
poor running.
Certain adjustment points in the fuel system
are protected by tamperproof caps, plugs or
seals. In some territories, it is an offence to
drive a vehicle with broken or missing
tamperproof seals. Before disturbing a
tamperproof seal, first check that no local or
national laws will be broken by doing so, and
fit a new tamperproof seal after adjustment is
complete, where required by law. Do not
break tamperproof seals on any vehicle whilst
it is still under warranty. Carburettors are delicate instruments, and
care must be taken not to disturb any
components unnecessarily. Before attempting
work on a carburettor, ensure that the relevant
spares are available; it should be noted that a complete strip down of a carburettor is
unlikely to cure a fault which is not
immediately obvious, without introducing new
problems. If persistent problems occur, it is
recommended that the services of a Ford
dealer or a carburettor specialist are sought.
Most dealers will be able to provide
carburettor rejetting and servicing facilities.
Where necessary, it may be possible to
purchase a reconditioned carburettor.
2 Air cleaner
-
removal and refitting
1
Note: Air cleaner element renewal and air
cleaner temperature control system checks
are described in Chapter 1.
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 On CVH engine models, pull free and
release the accelerator cable from the locating
clip on the side of the air cleaner.
3 Undo the two (HCS engine) or three (CVH
engine) retaining screws, and partially lift the
air cleaner from the carburettor so that the
hose and wiring connections to the underside
of the air cleaner body are accessible (see
illustration) .
4 Note their connections and routings, then
detach the wiring multi-plug and hoses from
the underside of the air cleaner (see
illustrations) . On CVH engines, also
disconnect the vacuum hose from the inlet
manifold.
5 Lift the air cleaner from the carburettor.
6 If required, the inlet air temperature sensor
can be unscrewed and removed from the
base of the air cleaner (where fitted).
Refitting
7 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Renew
any hoses that are perished or cracked, and
ensure that all fittings are securely and
correctly reconnected.
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•3
2.4b Disconnecting the intake air temperature sensor multi-plug
(CVH engine shown)2.4a Disconnecting the oil separator/
crankcase ventilation hose from the air
cleaner (CVH engine shown)2.3 Undoing the air cleaner retainingscrews (HCS engine shown)
4A
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position at the carburettor, then secure the
outer cable with its retaining clip.
Adjustment
12To check that the choke cable is correctly
adjusted, the control knob must be pulled out
to the full-on position and the choke lever
must be in contact with its stop. Adjust as
required if necessary.
13 Press the choke knob fully in (to the off
position), then check that the choke linkage at
the carburettor has fully returned to its off
position and the choke valve plate in the
carburettor is at a right angle (90º) to the
venturi.
14 Refit the air cleaner.
15 Reconnect the battery, turn the ignition
on, operate the choke and check that the
choke warning light operates correctly.
7 Fuel pump -
testing, removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Testing
1 Access to the fuel pump on HCS engine models is best gained from underneath the
vehicle
(see illustrations) . Apply the
handbrake, then raise and support it on axle
stands at the front end (see “Jacking and
vehicle support” ).
2 The fuel pump may be tested by
disconnecting the fuel feed pipe from the
carburettor, and placing the pipe’s open end
in a suitable container.
3 Detach the multi-plug from the DIS ignition
coil, or the LT lead from the negative terminal
of the ignition coil, to prevent the engine from
firing.
4 Actuate the starter motor. If the fuel pump
is in good working order, regular well-defined
spurts of fuel should eject from the open end
of the disconnected fuel pipe.
5 If this does not occur, and there is fuel in
the tank, the pump is defective and must be
renewed. The fuel pump is a sealed unit, and
cannot be repaired.
Removal
6 Two types of mechanical fuel pump are
fitted, the application depending on the
engine type. Some models may also be fitted
with a fuel vapour separator (see illustration) ;
if this is removed, its hoses should be labelled
to avoid the possibility of confusion and
incorrect attachment on refitting. 7
To remove the fuel pump, first disconnect
the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to
Chapter 5A, Section 1).
8 Where applicable, remove the air cleaner to
improve access to the fuel pump (see Sec-
tion 2).
9 Disconnect the fuel hoses from the fuel
pump, noting their respective connections for
refitting. Where quick-release couplings are
used on the fuel hoses, release the protruding
locking lugs on each union, by squeezing
them together and carefully pulling the
coupling apart. Use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel. Where the unions are colour-coded, the
pipes cannot be confused. Where both unions
are the same colour, note carefully which pipe
is connected to which, and ensure that they
are correctly reconnected on refitting. Plug
the hoses to prevent fuel spillage and the
ingress of dirt.
10 Unscrew and remove the retaining bolts
or nuts (as applicable) and remove the fuel
pump.
11 Recover the gasket/spacer (see
illustration) and if required, withdraw the
pump operating pushrod (CVH engines only).
12 Thoroughly clean the mating faces on the
pump and engine.
Refitting
13 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Be
sure to use a new gasket, and tighten the
securing bolts/nuts securely. Ensure that the
hoses are correctly and securely reconnected.
If they were originally secured with crimped
type hose clips, discard them and fit
screw type clips. Where quick-release
couplings are fitted, press them together until
the locking lugs snap into their groove.
14 When the engine is restarted, check
the pump connections for any signs of fuel
leaks.
8 Fuel tank - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding.
Removal
1 Run the fuel level as low as possible prior to
removing the tank.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Remove the fuel filler cap, then syphon or
pump out the remaining fuel from the fuel tank
(there is no drain plug). The fuel must be
emptied into a suitable container for storage.
4 Chock the front wheels then jack up the
rear of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and vehicle support” ). Remove
the rear roadwheels.
5 Unclip and disconnect the fuel feed and
return hoses located in front of the fuel tank,
and allow any residual fuel to drain into a
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•5
7.6 Fuel pump and fuel vapour separator
arrangement on HCS engine (shown from
below)
7.1b Fuel pump assembly fitted to CVHengines (securing nuts arrowed)
A Fuel feed from tank
B Fuel return to tank
C Fuel feed to carburettor7.1a Fuel pump location on HCS engine (shown from below)
A Fuel inlet hose
B Fuel return hose to tank
C Fuel outlet hose to carburettor
D Pump securing bolts
7.11 Gasket/spacer fitment on HCS
engine. Note position of the lug (arrowed)
4A
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2Remove the filler cap surround (see
illustration) .
3 Disconnect the ventilation tube from the
combined roll-over/anti-trickle-fill valve,
release the ventilation tube from its retaining
clips and detach the valve from the vehicle.
4 Remove the filler pipe securing bolt, then
twist and withdraw the filler pipe unit.
5 Prior to refitting, check the condition of the
filler pipe seal in the fuel tank and renew if
necessary.
Refitting
6 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure, but apply a light smear of grease
to the filler pipe seal to aid filler pipe entry.
12 Carburettor (Weber TLM) -
description
The carburettor is of the single (fixed)
venturi downdraught type, featuring a fixed
size main jet system with a mechanically-
operated accelerator pump and vacuum-
operated power valve to provide optimum
fuelling. A manually-operated choke system is
fitted, featuring a vacuum-operated pull-down
mechanism which brings the choke partially
off during conditions of high manifold
vacuum. An anti-dieseling (fuel cut-off) solenoid
(where fitted) prevents the possibility of
engine run-on when the ignition is switched
off. Idle speed and mixture adjustment
procedures are described in Chapter 1, but it
is important to note that accurate adjustments
can only be made using the necessary
equipment.
13 Carburettor (Weber TLM) -
fast-idle speed adjustment
4
Note: Before carrying out any carburettor
adjustments, ensure that the spark plug gaps
are set as specified, and that all electrical and
vacuum connections are secure. To carry out
checks and adjustments, an accurate
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required.
1 Check the idle speed and mixture settings
are as specified (as described in Chapter 1).
These must be correct before
checking/adjusting the fast-idle speed.
2 With the engine at its normal operating
temperature, and a tachometer connected in
accordance with the manufacturer’s
instructions, remove the air cleaner (if not
already done) as described in Section 2.
3 Actuate the choke by pulling its control
knob fully out, then start the engine.
4 Hold the choke plate open using a 5.0 mm
twist drill held between the plate and the venturi, and record the fast-idle speed
achieved. If adjustment is necessary, turn the
fast-idle adjusting screw until the specified
speed is obtained
(see illustration).
5 Re-check the fast-idle and basic idle
speeds.
6 On satisfactory completion of the
adjustment, stop the engine, disconnect the
tachometer and CO meter then refit the air
cleaner.
7 Remove the bridging wire from the radiator
cooling fan thermal switch multi-plug, and
reconnect the multi-plug to the thermal
switch.
14 Needle valve and float (Weber
TLM carburettor) - removal,
refitting and adjustment
4
Note: Refer to the warning note in Section 1
before proceeding. New gaskets and a washer
(seal) will be required when reassembling. A
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will also be required to check the idle
speed and mixture settings on completion.
Removal and refitting
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Remove the air cleaner as described in
Section 2.
3 Clean the exterior of the carburettor, then
disconnect the fuel feed hose.
4 Disconnect the choke cable and the choke
vacuum hose. 5
Remove the four screws securing the
carburettor upper body (two of these screws
are Torx head type), and detach it. Note that
the carburettor lower body is now loose
on the inlet manifold.
6 Tap out the float retaining pin, remove the
float and withdraw the needle valve. Unscrew
the needle valve housing, as required, noting
washer fitment.
7 Inspect the components for damage and
renew as necessary. Check the needle valve
for wear, and check the float assembly for
leaks by shaking it to see if it contains petrol.
Whilst accessible, clean the float chamber
and jets (refer to Section 17).
8 Using a new washer, refit the needle valve
housing.
9 Refit the needle valve, float and retaining
pin, ensuring that the tag on the float engages
between the ball and clip on the needle valve.
10 Before refitting the carburettor upper
body, check and if necessary adjust the float
level as described in paragraph 15 to 18. Also
check the float and needle valve for full and
free movement.
11 Clean the gasket contact faces (including
the inlet manifold) then, using new gaskets for
the carburettor upper body and the inlet
manifold faces, refit the carburettor upper
body and secure the carburettor assembly to
the inlet manifold.
12 Reconnect the choke vacuum hose. If the
fuel feed hose was originally secured with a
crimped type clip, discard this and secure the
fuel feed hose with a nut and screw type clip.
13 Reconnect and adjust the choke cable,
then refit the air cleaner.
14 Reconnect the battery negative lead, start
and warm up the engine then check the idle
speed and mixture settings as described in
Chapter 1.
Float level adjustment
15 With the carburettor upper body removed
as described in paragraphs 1 to 5 inclusive,
proceed as follows.
16 Hold the carburettor upper body in the
position shown (see illustration) , ensuring
that the needle valve is shut off. Fit the new
upper body gasket to the carburettor upper
Fuel system – carburettor engines 4A•7
13.4 Fast-idle speed adjusting screw (arrowed) (Weber TLM carburettor)
11.2 Removing the filler cap surround
14.16 Float level adjustment (Weber TLM carburettor)
A Adjusting tag
B Float level setting dimension
4A
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