1988 PONTIAC FIERO engine overheat

F CARLINE
ITEM 10
TransmissionRransaxle Service
The manual transmission or transaxle fluid does not
require changing. (Corvette only.) Change fluid in over-
drive unit every 30,000 miles (50 000 km).
For automatic transmissions or transaxles, change
both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles (25 000 km) if
the car is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
@ In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
@ In hilly or mountainous terrain.
@ Frequent trailer pulling.
@ Uses such as found in taxi, police car or delivery
service.
If you do not use your car under any of these condi-
tions, change both the fluid and filter every 100,000 miles
(160 000 km). See you Owner's Manual for further
details.
ITEM 11
Spark Plug Service*
Replace spark plugs with type listed in your Owner's
Manual.
ITEM 12
Spark Plug Wire Inspection*
Clean wires and inspect for burns, cracks or other dam-
age. Check the wire boot fit at distributor and at spark plugs.
Replace wires as needed.
ITEM 13
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve
Inspection*
Inspect valve for proper function. Replace valve if
necessary as well as any worn, plugged or collapsed
hoses.
ITEM 14
EGR System Service*
Conduct EGR System Service as referenced in the
EGR System Chart shown in the appropriate 6E Section.
Also, refer to your GM maintenance schedule booklet for
specific applications.
ITEM 15
Air Cleaner and PCV Filter Replacement*
On 1.6 and 2.0 liter engines, replace every 50,000
miles (80 000 km). On all other engines, replace every
30,000 miles (50 000 km). Replace more often under
dusty conditions. Ask your dealer for the proper replace-
ment interval for your driving conditions.
MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION 08-3
ITEM 16
Engine Timing Check*
Adjust timing to underhood label specifications. If
no specifications are shown, no adjustment is needed.
ITEM 17
Fuel Tank, Cap and Lines Inspection*
Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines (including fuel rails
and injection assembly, if so equipped) for damage or
leaks. Inspect fuel cap gasket for an even filler neck
imprint or any damage. Replace parts as needed.
ITEM 18
Thermostatically Controlled Air Cleaner
Inspection*
If your car is equipped, inspect all hoses and ducts
for proper hookup. Make sure valve works properly.
OWNER INSPECTIONS AND SERVICES
Listed below are inspections and services which
should be made by either you or a qualified technician at
the intervals shown to help ensure proper safety, emission
performance and dependability of your car. Take any
problems promptly to your dealer or another qualified
technician for service advice. Whenever repairs are neces-
sary, have them completed at once. For your safety and
that of others, any safety-related parts that could have
been damaged in an accident should be inspected and all
needed repairs should be done before operating your car.
Be sure to use the proper fluids and lubricants as shown in
Figure OB-2.
WHILE OPERATING YOUR VEHICLE
Automatic transmissionltransaxle shift indi-
cator operation - Make sure the indicator points to the
gear chosen.
Horn operation - Blow the horn occasionally to
make sure it works. Check all button locations.
I
Brake system operation -- Be alert to abnormal
sounds, increased brake pedal travel or repeated pulling to
one side when braking. Also, if a brake warning light
comes on or flashes, or the anti-lock warning light (if
equipped) comes on or remains on, something may be
wrong with part of the brake system. Have it inspected and
repaired at once.
Exhaust system operation - Be alert to any
changes in the sound of the system or any smell of fumes.
These are signs the system may be leaking or overheating.
.
Have it inspected and repaired at once. Also see "Engine
Exhaust Gas Caution (Carbon Monoxide)" and "Catalytic
Converter" in your Owner's Manual.
*An Emission Control Service

4A-4 PROPELLER SHAFT
PROPELLER SHAFT BALANCING
Hose Clamp Method
Figures 4A- 1 1 thru 4A-13
1. Place the vehicle on a twin post hoist so that the
rear of the vehicle is supported on the rear axle
housing and the rear wheels are free to rotate.
Remove both rear wheel assemblies and reinstall
wheel lug nuts with flat sides next to
drums/discs.
2. Mark and number propeller shaft at four (4)
points 90 degrees apart at rear of shaft just
forward of balance weight, as shown.
3. Install two (2) hose clamps on the rear of the
propeller shaft and slide them rearward until the
clamps stop at the nearest balance weight welded
to the tube. Align both clamps at any one of the
four marks made on shaft in Step 2 and tighten.
Be sure sufficient clearance is maintained so that
clamp heads do not contact floor pan of vehicle
when axle is in contact with rebound bumper in
frame. In order to gain sufficient clearance, it
may be necessary to position the clamps over the
balance weights.
4. Run the vehicle through the speed range to 80-90
MPH (130-145
Km/h) and note amount of
imbalance.
CAUTION: All persons should stay
clear of universal joint and balance
weight areas to avoid possible injury.
Do not run on hoist for extended
periods due to the danger of
overheating the transmission or
engine.
5. Loosen clamps and rotate clamp heads 90 degrees
to the next mark on a propeller shaft. Tighten
clamps and repeat Step 4.
6. Repeat Step 5 until car has been run with clamp
heads located at all four marks on shaft.
7. Position clamps at point of least imbalance.
Rotate the clamp heads away from each other 45
degrees (one on each side of the position), as
shown. Run the vehicle and note if imbalance has
improved.
In some cases it may be necessary to use one
clamp or possibly three clamps in order to obtain
a good balance. Replace shaft if three hose clamps
do not improve the imbalance.
8. Continue to rotate the clamps apart in smaller
angular increments until the imbalance is at its
minimum.
9. Reinstall wheel assemblies and road test the
vehicle for final check of balance. A minimal
vibration felt in the vehicle on the hoist may not
show up during a road test.
Strobe Light Method
Figures 461- 1 1, $A- 14, and 4A- 15
If a wheel balancer of the strobe light type is
available, the use of such a unit will facilitate the
balancing of the propeller shaft. The balance pick-up
unit should be placed directly under the nose of the
rear axle carrier and as far forward as possible. 1.
Place
the vehicle on a twin post hoist so the rear of
the vehicle is supported on the rear axle housing and
the rear wheels are free to rotate. Lower rear hoist
and allow axle to rest on jackstands. The groove in
the rear hoist fixture could clamp the axle and de-
stroy the sensitivity of the operation. Remove both
rear wheel assemblies and reinstall wheel lug nuts
with flat sides next to the
drums/rotors.
2.
Mark and number drive shaft at 4 points 90
degrees apart at rear of shaft just forward of
balance weights, as shown.
3. Place the strobe light wheel balancer pick-up
under the nose of the carrier.
4. Run vehicle in gear at the speed where the
distrubance is at its peak, allow the driveline to
stabilize by holding at a constant speed. Point
strobe light up at the spinning propeller shaft and
note position of one of the reference numbers.
Shut off engine and position the propeller shaft so
the reference numbers will be in the same position
as was noted while the shaft was rotating.
When strobe light flashed, the heaviest point of
the shaft was at the bottom (6 o'clock). To
balance the propeller shaft, it would be necessary
to apply the balancing weights (hose clamps) 180
degrees away from the heaviest point or at the top
of the propeller shaft (12 o'clock).
5. Install two screw-type hose clamps on the
propeller shaft as close to the rear as possible.
Position both clamp heads 180 degrees from the
heaviest point of drive shaft as indicated by strobe
light. Tighten clamps.
NOTICE: Be sure sufficient clearance is
maintained so clamp heads do not contact floor
pan of vehicle when axle is in contact with rebound
bumper on frame. In order to gain. sufficient
clearance, it may be necessary to position the
clamps over the balance weights.
6. Run vehicle through the speed range 80-90
M.P.
H. (130-145 Km/h). If disturbance is gone,
nothing further need be done on the hoist. If the
disturbance is not gone and the strobe light shows
the clamp heads at the bottom (6 o'clock) of the
shaft, go to Step
7. If the strobe light shows the
two clamp heads at the top of the shaft, add one
more hose clamp and recheck. If the strobe light
shows the three clamp heads at the top of the
shaft, remove the propeller shaft and
reindex it
180 degrees on the rear axle pinion companion
flange. Recheck with no clamps. Repeat balance
starting with Step 5. If the shaft still needs more
than three hose clamps at the same clock position,
replace it. If the clamps are also 180 degrees from
their original position after the propeller shaft
was reindexed 180 degrees, the rear axle pinion
companion flange is out of balance and must be
replaced. DO NOT use more than three hose
clamps to balance the shaft. If the strobe light
shows the hose clamps at the bottom of the shaft,
but the disturbance still exists, go to Step
7.

6-4 ENGINE GENERAL INFORMATION
Bent connecting rod.
HEAVY KNOCK H0"FVVI"F TORQUE APPLIED
Broken balancer, or pulley hub. Replace parts as e Exhaust system grounded. Reposition as
necessary. necessary.
Loose torque converter bolts. Flywheel
cracked.
e Excessive main bearing clearance. Replace as
Accessory belts too tight or nicked. Replace
necessary.
and/or tension to specs as necessary.
e Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace as
necessary.
LIGHT KNOCK HOT
Detonation or spark knock. Check operation of e Loose torque converter bolts.
EST or ESC (See Section
6D or 6E). Check e Exhaust leak at manifold. Tighten bolts and/or
engine timing and fuel quality.
replace gasket.
8 Excessive rod bearing clearance. Replace
bearings as necessary.
KNOCKS ON INITIAL START-UP BUT ONLY LASTS A FEW SECONDS
Noisy mechanical fuel pump. Replace pump.
When the engine is stopped, some valves
will be open. Spring pressure against lifters
Improper oil viscosity. Install proper oil viscosity will
tend to bleed lifter down. Attempts to
for expected temperatures. See Owner's Manual. repair
should be made only if the problem
is consistent.
Hydraulic lifter bleed down. Clean, test and @ Excessive crankshaft end clearance. Replace
replace as necessary. crankshaft
thrust bearing.
@ Excessive front main bearing clearance. Replace
worn parts.
KNOCKS AT IDLE HOT
Loose or worn drive belts. Tension and/or @ Excessive piston pin clearance. Ream and install
replace as necessary. oversize pins. (VIN R and 2) or replace piston
A/C Compressor or generator bearing. Replace and
pin.
as necessary.
e Connecting rod alignment. Check and replace
rods as necessary.
Noisy mechanical fuel pump. Replace pump.
8 Insufficient piston to bore clearance. Hone bore
Valve train. Replace parts as necessary. and
fit new piston.
@ Loose crankshaft balancer. Torque and/or
Improper oil viscosity. Install proper viscosity oil
replace worn parts.
for expected temperature4 See Owner" e Piston pin offset to wrong side. Install correct
ENGINE OVERHEATS
Coolant system leak, oil cooler system leak, or
2. Belt slipping or damaged. Replace tensioner, or
coolant recovery system not operating. Check for belt, as required.
leaks and correct as required. Check coolant
3. Thermostat stuck closed. Check and replace if
recovery tank, hose and radiator cap.
required.
4. Electrical cooling fan operation. See the
ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING
MANUAL.
5. Head gasket leaking. Check and repair as
required.

ENGINE COOLING 88.3
since a small oil pump driven by the separator plate
forces the silicone oil into a reservoir between the
separator plate and the front cover assembly. In this
position, the passage from this cavity to the clutch area
is closed by a slide valve. As operating conditions
produce a high radiator air temperature discharge,
above approximately 66°C
(150"F), the temperature
sensitive bi-metal coil tightens to move the slide valve
(attached to the coil) which opens a port in the
separator plate. This allows a flow of silicone oil into
the clutch chamber to engage the clutch, providing a
maximum fan speed of approximately 2200 rpm. The
clutch coil is calibrated so that, with a road load at an
ambient temperature of approximately 32°C
(90T), the
clutch is just at a point of shift between high and low
fan speed. No attempt should be made to disturb the
calibration of the engine clutch fan assembly as each
assembly is individually calibrated at the time of
manufacture. Under certain temperature conditions
there is a lateral movement at the fan tip which should
not be considered as a hub or bearing failure. This
condition is a design feature of the clutch assembly
which allows up to approximately
1/4" lateral
movement measured at the fan tip.
Testing a clutch fan by holding the small hub
with one hand and rotating the aluminum housing in
a
clockwise/counter-clockwise motion will cause the
clutch to freewheel, which is a normal condition when
operated in this manner. This should not be considered
a test by which replacement is determined.
Temperature Switch
This switch activates a warning lamp in the
instrument cluster if the engine overheats. With
optional instrumentation, a temperature gage replaces
the warning lamp and the temperature switch is
replaced with a transducer. See Section
8A for
Temperature Switch location and diagnosis.
Coolant Temperature Fan Switch
This switch regulates voltage to the coolant fan
relay, which operates the fan whenever the engine
coolant temperature exceeds 230"
F (110" C). For
location and diagnosis see Section 8A for Coolant
Temperature Fan Switch.
Thermostat
A pellet-type thermostat is used in the coolant
outlet passage to control the flow of engine coolant, to
provide fast engine warm-up and to regulate coolant
temperatures.
A wax pellet element in the thermostat
expands when heated and contracts when cooled. The
pellet element is connected through a piston to a valve.
When the pellet element is heated, pressure is exerted
against a rubber diaphragm which forces the valve to
open. As the pellet element is cooled, the contraction
allows a spring to close the valve. Thus, the valve
remains closed while the coolant is cold, preventing
circulation of coolant through the radiator. At this
point, coolant is allowed to circulate only throughout
the engine to warm it quickly and evenly.
As the engine warms, the pellet element expands
and the thermostat valve opens, permitting coolant to flow
through the radiator, where heat is dissipated
through the radiator walls. This opening and closing of
the thermostat permits enough coolant to enter the
radiator to keep the engine within operating limits.
Fig. 3 Pellet Type Thermostat
Coolant Recovery System
A recovery-type cooling system is standard on all
cars and is designed to maintain the engine at proper
operating temperatures. The recovery tank collects
coolant that expands with rising temperature and
would otherwise overflow from the system. When the
system temperature drops, the coolant is drawn from
the recovery tank back into the radiator by the suction
created by coolant contraction. The cooling system has
been filled at the factory with a high-quality, inhibited,
year-around coolant that meets the standards of
General Motors Specification 1825-M. This coolant
solution provides freezing protection to at least -37°C
(-34°F). It has been formulated to be used for two full
calendar years or
30,OO miles, whichever first occurs,
of normal operation without replacement, provided the
proper concentration of coolant is maintained.
DIAGNOSIS
The following diagnostic information covers
common problems and possible causes. When the
proper diagnosis is made the problem should be
corrected by part replacement, adjustment, or repair as
required. Refer to the appropriate section of the service
manual for these procedures.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Cooling System Care
The radiator cap should not be removed to check
coolant level. Check the coolant level visually in the
"see-through" coolant recovery tank every time hood
is up. Level should be near "ADD" mark when the
system is cold. At normal operating temperature the
coolant level should increase to the "FULL" mark on
the recovery tank. Coolant should be added only to the
reservoir to raise level to the "FULL" mark. Use a
50/50 mixture of high-quality ethylene glycol
antifreeze and water for coolant additions.

BB.4 ENGINE COOLING
ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM COMPLAINT
TO AVOID NEEDLESS
TIME AND COST IN DIAGNOSING COOLING SYSTEM COMPLAINTS, THE CUSTOMER
SHOULD BE QUESTIONED ABOUT DRIVING CONDITIONS THAT PLACE ABNORMAL LOADS ON THE COOLING
SYSTEM.
1. DOES OVERHEATING OCCUR WHILE PULLING A TRAILER?
IF ANSWER IS "YES'- HOW HEAVY IS TRAILER? IF TRAILER WEIGHT IS GREATER THAN 1,000 LBS. & CAR IS EQUIPPED
WITH NORMAL DUTY COOLING SYSTEM, A HEAVY DUTY COOLING PACKAGE IS REQUIRED (PER MFR'S TRAILER HAULING
SPECS.). FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC CHECKS SHOULD NOT BE REQUIRED.
2. IS CAR EQUIPPED WlTH ADD-ON OR AFTER MARKET AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM?
IF ANSWER IS "YES"- WAS HEAVY DUTY RADIATOR INSTALLED WITH THE SYSTEM? IF NOT, INSTALL HEAVY DUTY AIR
CONDITIONING RADIATOR FOR THE CAR MODEL INVOLVED (PER MANUFACTURER'S SPECS.). FURTHER DlAGNOSTlC
CHECKS SHOULD NOT BE REQUIRED.
3. IS OVERHEATING OCCURRING AFTER PROLONGED IDLE, IN GEAR, AIC SYSTEM OPERATING?
IF ANSWER IS "YES - INSTRUCT OWNER ON DRIVING TECHNIQUES THAT WOULD AVOID OVERHEATING SUCH AS: a, IDLE IN NEUTRAL AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE - INCREASE ENGINE R.P.M. TO GET HIGHER AIR FLOW & WATER
FLOW THROUGH RADIATOR.
b. TURN A/C SYSTEM OFF DURING EXTENDED IDLES IF OVERHEATING IS INDICATED BY HOT LIGHT OR TEMP. GAGE.
FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC CHECKS SHOULD NOT BE REQUIRED.
4. IS OVERHEATING OCCURRING AFTER PROLONGED DRIVING IN SLOW CITY TRAFFIC, TRAFFIC JAMS,
GARAGES, ETC.?
IF ANSWER IS "YES - INSTRUCT OWNER ON DRIVING TECHNIQUES THAT WOULD AVOID OVERHEATING - SAME AS
FOR PROLONGED IDLES - NO. 3 FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC CHECKS SHOULD NOT BE REQUIRED.
IF NONE OF THE ABOVE APPLY, GO TO DIAGNOSTIC CHART
TO EFFECTIVELY USE THlS CHART, QUESTION THE OWNER TO DETERMINE WHICH OF THE FOLLOWING
(3) CATEGORIES APPLIES TO THE COMPLAINT:
1. HOT LlGHT OR HOT INDICATION ON TEMPERATURE GAGE 2. BOILING 3. COOLANT LOSS
1. IF COMPLAINT IS HOT LlGHT OR HOT INDICATION ON TEMPERATURE GAGE -
WAS HOT LlGHT ACCOMPANIED BY BOILING? IF ANSWER IS "YES", GO TO BOILING ON CHART
IF ANSWER IS "NO, GO TO HOT LlGHT ON CHART
2. IF COMPLAINT IS BOILING - GO TO BOILING ON CHART
IF PROBLEM REMAINS, GO TO COOLING
FAN DIAGNOSIS SECTION 8 (IF SO EQUIPPED).
I 3. IF COMPLAINT IS COOLANT LOSS -
DETERMINE IF CUSTOMER IS OVERFILLING THE SYSTEM, THlS WOULD NORMALLY RESULT IN SMALL AMOUNTS OF
I COOLANT LOSS THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE. IF THlS IS THE CASE, INSTRUCT THE CUSTOMER ON PROPER FILL LEVEL & NO FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC CHECKS SHOULD BE REQUIRED.
I IF OVERFILLING IS NOT THE PROBLEM, GO TO COOLANT LOSS ON CHART.
NOTICE:
ANYTIME COOLING SYSTEM IS OBVIOUSLY CONTAMINATED, THE SYSTEM SHOULD BE
DRAINED AND FLUSHED.
1 CAUTION - THE COOLING SYSTEM IS DESIGNED TO OPERATE AT 15 P.S.I. PRESSURE & TEMPERATURES
EXCEEDING 200°F. CAUTION SHOULD BE EXERCISED WHEN REMOVING PRESSURE CAP OR
I SERVICING THE SYSTEM.
Fig. 4 Cooling System Diagnosis Chart (I of 3)

ENGINE COOLING 6B-5
BOILINGIENGINE OVERHEAT/ ENGINE COOLANT LOSS
FOAMING COOLANT- Observe in filler neck after en-
for leaks in hoses. , overflow bottle,
for obstructions in
on chart
3 are two groups of prob-

6B-8 ENGINE COOLING
PROBLEMS NOT REQUIRING DISASSEMBLY OF COOLING SYSTEM - 1. LARGE OBSTRUCTIONS BLOCKING RADIATOR OR CONDENSER
a. AUXILIARY OIL COOLERS
b. LICENSE PLATES R ELOCATE
c. SPARE TIRES
d. ICE, MUD OR SNOW OBSTRUCTING GRILLE - REMOVE
2. ENGINE OIL OVERFILL - CHECK ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK
3. WRONG RADIATOR FOR
APPLICATION - CHECK PART NO. AGAINST PARTS LlST
4. LOOSE, DAMAGED OR MISSING AIR SEALS - SEE BODY SERVICE MANUAL
5. MISSING OR DAMAGED LOWER AIR BAFFLE - SEE BODY SERVICE MANUAL
6. WRONG IGNITION TIMING - SEE CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL PROBLEMS REQUIRING DISASSEMBLY OF COOLING SYSTEM -
1. INCORRECT OR DAMAGED FAN - CHECK PART NO. AGAINST PARTS LlST
2. FAULTY EMISSION SYSTEM COMPONENTS (COULD CAUSE OVERHEATING AT IDLE)
; SEE CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
3. PRESSURE CHECK COOLING SYSTEM WITH PRESSURE CAP INSTALLED - WILL SHOW
IF PRESSURE CAP LEAKS BECAUSE OF RADIATOR FILLER NECK DAMAGE
4. DEFECTIVE WATER PUMP
a. ERODED OR BROKEN IMPELLER VANES
b. FAILED BEARING OR SEAL - CHECK FOR SHAFT OR BEARING PLAY
5. PLUGGED RADIATOR TUBES - SEND TO RADIATOR REPAIR SHOP FOR FLOW CHECK
6. INTERNAL SYSTEM LEAKS
B. HEAD GASKET - SEE CHASSIS SERVICE MANUAL
b. CRACKED BLOCK
c. TIMING CHAIN COVER
d. INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET
7. PLUGGED COOLANT PASSAGES IN CYLINDER HEADS - REMOVE HEADS AND CHECK VISUALLY
Fig. 6 Cooling System Diagnosis Chart (3 of 3)
1. RELIEVE PRESSURE AND CAREFULLY REMOVE RADIATOR CAP.
2. RUB W'F. TEMPERATURE STICK* ONTO THERMOSTAT MOUSING.
3. WARM UP ENGINE AT FAST IDLE:
WATCH FOR COOLANT FLOW BEFORE MAR
NO COOLANT FLOW INSTALL NEW
THERMOSTAT.
COLD ENGINE -SLOW WARMUP -NOT ENOUGH HEAT
1. RELIEVE PRESSURE AND CAREFULLY REMOVE RADIATOR CAP.
2. RUB 188'~. TEMPERATURE STICK' ONTO THERMOSTAT HOUSING.
3. WARM UP ENGINE AT FAST IDLE.
COOLANT FLOW
- 'NOTE: THE TEMPERATURE STICK IS A PENCIL LIKE DEVICE WHICH HAS A WAX MATERIAL CONTAINING CERTAIN CHEMICALS WHICH MELT AT A GIVEN TEMPERATURE THEWERATURE STICKS CAN BE USED TO DETERMINE A THERMOSTAT'S OPERATING TEMPERATURE BY RUBBING laB°F AN0 =OF. STICKS ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING. THE MARKS MADE BY THE STICKS SHOULD MELT WHEN COOLANT TEMPERATURES OF IWOF'AND W'F. ARE REACHED, RESPECTIVELY. THESE TEMPERATURES ARE THE NORMAL WERATING RANGE OF THE THERMOSTAT. THEREFORE, ~i WE COOLANT FLOWS AS INDICATED ON THE DIAGNOSIS CHART. THE THERMOSTAT MAY BE DEFECTIVE.
Fig. 7 Thermostat Diagnosis Chart

6D2-2 CRANKING SYSTEM
1-SWIFT LEVER m
SPRING 17-FLYWHEEL I
I G20198-6D
Fig. 1 Cranking Circuit - 5MT or PMGR
PROBLEM CAUSE - 1. HIGH PITCHED WHINE DURING CRANKING (BEFORE DISTANCE
TOO GREAT BETWEEN STARTER PINION AND
ENGINE FIRES) BUT ENGINE CRANKS AND FIRES FLYWHEEL.
OKAY - 2. HlGH PITCHED "WHINE"
AFTER ENGINE FIRES, AS
KEY IS BEING RELEASED. ENGINE CRANKS AND
FIRES OKAY. THlS INTERMITTENT COMPLAINT IS
OFTEN DIAGNOSED AS "STARTER HANG-IN"
OR "SOLENOID WEAK."
3. A LOUD "WHOOP" AFTER THE ENGINE FIRES BUT
WHILE THE STARTER IS STILL HELD ENGAGED.
SOUNDS
LIKE A SIREN IF THE ENGINE IS REVVED
WHILE STARTER IS ENGAGED.
4. A "RUMBLE. "GROWL" OR (IN SEVERE CASES) A
"KNOCK" AS THE STARTER IS COASTING DOWN TO
A STOP AFTER STARTING THE ENGINE. DISTANCE
TOO
SMALL BETWEEN STARTER PINION AND
FLYWHEEL. FLYWHEEL RUNOUT CONTRIBUTES TO THE
INTERMITTENT NATURE.
MOST PROBABLE CAUSE IS A DEFECTIVE CLUTCH. A NEW
CLUTCH
WlLL OFTEN CORRECT THlS PROBLEM.
MOST PROBABLE CAUSE IS A BENT OR UNBALANCED
STARTER ARMATURE. A NEW ARMATURE
WlLL OFTEN
CORRECT THlS PROBLEM.
620026.60
Fig. 2 Starter Motor Noise Diagnosis
location will decrease the clearance by is known to be functioning properly, remove the motor
approximately
.3mm (.01OU). and follow the procedures shown in Starter Motor
Disassembly, Test and Reassembly (Unit Repair).
If normal starter shims are not available, they can
Never operate the cranking motor more than 30
be improvised from plain washers or other suitable
seconds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool material.
for at least two minutes. Overheating, caused by
excessive cranking, will seriously
damage the cranking Starter Motor: If the battery, wiring and motor, switches are in satisfactory condition, and the engine