1988 OPEL VECTRA air condition

Wiring diagrams 12•57
12
Key to wiring diagrams for 1992 and later models (continued)
NoDescriptionTrackNoDescriptionTrack
S20.2High pressure compressor switch925
S20.3High pressure blower compressor switch939
S21Fog lamps switch555 to 557
S22Rear fog lamp switch549 to 551
S24Air conditioning blower switch904 to 911
S29Coolant temperature switch118, 137, 357, 942, 957, 972
S30Left front heating mat switch660 to 662
S31Rear left door contact switch591
S32Rear right door contact switch592
S33Traction control switch1130, 1131
S37Window lifter switch868 to 894
S37.1Left window lifter switch868 to 870
S37.2Right window lifter switch886 to 888
S37.3Left rear window lifter switch874 to 876
S37.4Right rear window lifter switch892 to 894
S37.5Safety switch872, 873
S37.6Window anti-jam off switch890
S37.7Automatic window lifter control877 to 882
S39Left rear door window lifter switch878 to 880
S40Right rear door window lifter switch896 to 898
S41Driver door burglary locking switch800 to 802
S42Passenger door central locking switch805
S44Throttle valve switch316, 317
S47Driver door contact switch593, 594
S52Hazard warning switch569 to 573
S53First gear identification switch372
S55Right front heating mat switch664 to 666
S57Sun roof switch1170 to 1183
S63Computer switch
S63.1Function reset switch856
S63.2Clock hours adjustment switch857
S63.3Function select switch858
S63.4Clock minute adjustment switch859
S64Horn switch672
S68Outside mirror switch assy
S68.1Outside mirror adjustment switch638 to 640, 758 to 762
S68.3Left/right outside mirror switch637 to 641, 759 to 763
S68.4Parking position switch765
S82Washer fluid minimum capacity control switch736
S882 stage coolant temperature switch120, 121, 137, 138, 430, 431
S89Seat belt switch998
S93Coolant minimum capacity control switch737
S95Engine oil minuimum capacity control switch738
S98Headlamps levelling switch691 to 693
S99ZV driver door window lifter switch865
S100ZV passenger door window lifter switch883
S101Compressor switch926 to 928
S102Circulation switch918 to 920
S103Transmission temperature switch350
S104Kickdown switch493
S105Start-up assistance switch495 to 497
S106Economy power program switch492
S109Acceleration revolution pressure switch921
S115Coolant temperature switch487, 488
S116Stop lamp switch564, 565
S117Hydraulic pressure switch346
S120Engine compartment hood (anti-theft warning unit) switch835
S127Calibra tail gate central locking switch831
S128Coolant temperature switch936,937S131Defroster lever limit switch918
U2Computer851 to 862
U4ABS hydroaggregate1102 to 1122, 1146 to 1164
U4.1Pump motor relay1102, 1103, 1146, 1147
U4.2Solenoid valves relay1104, 1105, 1148, 1149
U4.3Pump motor1102,1146
U4.4Diode1105,1149
U4.5Left front solenoid valve1109,1153
U4.6Right front solenoid valve1111,1155
U4.7Rear axle solenoid valve1113,1157
U4.8ABS control unit1106 to 1122, 1150 to 1164
U4.9Solenoid valves plug1109 to 1113, 1153 to 1157
U5Check control display
U5.1Washer fluid minimum capacity telltale741
U5.2Oil minimum capacity telltale740
U5.3Coolant minimum capacity telltale739
U5.4Tail light & low beam telltale738
U5.5Stop light failure telltale737
U5.6Front brake lining telltale736
U12Filter heater
U12.1Temperature switch426, 452
U12.2Filter heater427, 453
U13Automatic transmission
U13.1Solenoid valve (shift 1)481
U13.2Solenoid valve (shift 2)482
U13.3Solenoid valve (lock up control)483
U13.4Solenoid valve (pressure control)484
U17Roof antenna amplifier795
V1Brake fluid test bulb diode712
V8Air conditioning compressor diode926
X1 onWiring connectorsVarious
X10Anti theft warning unit code837
X13Diagnostic link164, 165, 189, 190, 226, 270, 271, 258, 259,
309, 310, 370, 371, 343, 344, 473, 474, 573, 725, 836, 837, 860,
861, 1012, 1013, 1069, 1070, 1118, 1119, 1136, 1162, 1163
X15Octane number plug157, 158, 182, 183, 225, 226,
257, 258, 284, 285
X54Ignition coding plug310, 311, 1014, 1070, 1071
Y1Air conditioning compressor clutch925
Y4Headlamps washer solenoid valve620
Y5Fuel solenoid valve410, 445
Y7Fuel injection valves287 to 294,320 to 327,
384 to 391,1025 to 1032,1078 to 1089
Y10Hall sensor ignition distributor153 to 158
Y11Hot start solenoid valve375, 376
Y12Charging pressure control changeover valve377, 378
Y18Exhaust gas recirculation valve1093
Y23Inductive sensor distributor201 to 208
Y24Distributor (inductive discharge)
Y25Acceleration revolution solenoid valve155, 177
Y30Cold start acceleration solenoid valve 448
Y32Fuel injection valve212, 245
Y33Ignition distributor175 to 177, 268 to 270, 238 to 240,
301 to 303, 360 to 362
Y34Tank ventilation valve293, 331, 332, 379, 380,
1092, 1016, 1017,
Y35Circulation solenoid valve918
Y44Four wheel drive solenoid valve350
Y47Park brake shift lock lifting magnet469

Distributor
Direction of rotor arm rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Anti-clockwise (viewed from cap)
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end of engine)
Dwell angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Automatically controlled by electronic module (not adjustable)
Ignition timing
14 NV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5°BTDC
16 SV, X 16 SZ, C 16 NZ, C 16 NZ2 and C 18 NZ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10°BTDC *
18 SV and 2.0 litres models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 12°BTDC *
* Ignition timing electronically controlled no adjustment possible
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1 Specifications
Torque wrench settingNmlbf ft
Alternator mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Camshaft phase sensor disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Camshaft phase sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1511
‘Compact’ series alternator lower mounting bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3526
‘Compact’ series alternator upper mounting bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2015
DIS module . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75
Inductive pulse pick-up to block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Starter motor mounting bracket-to-cylinder block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Starter motor mounting:
1.4 and 1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
1.8 and 2.0 litre models:
Engine side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4533
Transmission side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7555
1Electrical system - general
1The electrical system is of the 12 volt
negative earth type, and consists of a 12 volt
battery, alternator with integral voltage
regulator, starter motor, and related electrical
accessories, components and wiring.
2The battery is of the maintenance-free
“sealed for life” type, and is charged by an
alternator, which is belt-driven from the
crankshaft pulley. The starter motor is of the
pre-engaged type, incorporating an integral
solenoid. On starting, the solenoid moves the
drive pinion into engagement with the flywheel
ring gear before the starter motor is
energised. Once the engine has started, a
one-way clutch prevents the motor armature
being driven by the engine until the pinion
disengages from the flywheel.
3It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system, to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. Along with the precautions
given in the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual, take note of the
following points when working on the system.4Always remove rings, watches, etc. before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, discharge could
occur if a component live terminal is earthed
through a metal object. This could cause a
shock or nasty burn.
5Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, or any
other component having semi-conductor
circuitry, could be irreparably damaged.
6If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive to positive and negative to
negative. This also applies when connecting a
battery charger.
7Never disconnect the battery terminals, or
alternator multi-plug connector, when the
engine is running.
8The battery leads and alternator wiring
must be disconnected before carrying out any
electric welding on the vehicle.
9Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
2Ignition system - general
1The ignition system is responsible for
igniting the air/fuel mixture in each cylinder at
the correct moment, in relation to engine
speed and load. A number of different types
of ignition systems are fitted to models within
the range. Ranging from a basic breakerless
electronic system, to a fully integrated engine
management system controlling both ignition
and fuel injection systems. Each system isdescribed in further detail later in this Section.
2The ignition system is based on feeding low
tension voltage from the battery to the coil,
where it is converted to high tension voltage.
The high tension voltage is powerful enough
to jump the spark plug gap in the cylinders
many times a second under high compression
pressures, providing that the system is in
good condition. The low tension (or primary)
circuit consists of the battery, the lead to the
ignition switch. The lead from the ignition
switch to the low tension coil windings and
the supply terminal on the electronic module.
The lead from the low tension coil windings to
the control terminal on the electronic module.
The high tension (or secondary) circuit
consists of the high tension coil windings, the
HT (high tension) lead from the coil to the
distributor cap, the rotor arm, the HT leads to
the spark plugs, and the spark plugs.
3The system functions in the following
manner. Current flowing through the low
tension coil windings produces a magnetic
field around the high tension windings. As the
engine rotates, a sensor produces an
electrical impulse that is amplified in the
electronic module and used to switch off the
low tension circuit.
4The subsequent collapse of the magnetic
field over the high tension windings produces
a high tension voltage, which is then fed to the
relevant spark plug through the distributor
cap and rotor arm. The low tension circuit is
automatically switched on again by the
electronic module, to allow the magnetic field
to build up again before the firing of the next
spark plug. The ignition is advanced and
retarded automatically, to ensure that the
spark occurs at the correct instant with the
engine speed and load.
5•2Engine electrical systems
Caution: Before carrying out
any work on the vehicle
electrical system, read through
the precautions given in the
“Safety first!” Section at the beginning of
this manual, and in Section 3 of this
Chapter.

HEI (High Energy Ignition)
system
5This comprises of a breakerless distributor
and an electronic switching/amplifier module
along with the coil and spark plugs.
6The electrical impulse that is required to
switch off the low tension circuit is generated
by a magnetic trigger coil in the distributor. A
trigger wheel rotates within a magnetic stator,
the magnetic field being provided by a
permanent magnet. The magnetic field across
the two poles (stator arm and trigger wheel) is
dependent on the air gap between the two
poles. When the air gap is at its minimum, the
trigger wheel arm is directly opposite the
stator arm, and this is the trigger point. As the
magnetic flux between the stator arm and
trigger wheel varies, a voltage is induced in the
trigger coil mounted below the trigger wheel.
This voltage is sensed and then amplified by
the electronic module, and used to switch off
the low tension circuit. There is one trigger arm
and one stator arm for each cylinder.
7The ignition advance is a function of the
distributor, and is controlled both
mechanically and by a vacuum-operated
system. The mechanical governor mechanism
consists of two weights that move out from
the distributor shaft due to centrifugal force as
the engine speed rises. As the weights move
outwards, they rotate the trigger wheel
relative to the distributor shaft and so
advance the spark. The weights are held in
position by two light springs, and it is the
tension of the springs that is largely
responsible for correct spark advancement.
8The vacuum control consists of a
diaphragm, one side of which is connected by
way of a small-bore hose to the carburettor,
and the other side to the distributor.
Depression in the inlet manifold and
carburettor, which varies with engine speed
and throttle position, causes the diaphragm to
move, so moving the baseplate and
advancing or retarding the spark. A fine
degree of control is achieved by a spring in
the diaphragm assembly.
MSTS-i (Microprocessor-
controlled Spark Timing System)
9This system comprises a “Hall-effect”
distributor (or a crankshaft speed/position
sensor on X 16 SZ models), a manifold pressure
sensor, an oil temperature sensor, and a
module, along with the coil and spark plugs.
10On 1.6 litre models, the electrical impulse
that is required to switch off the low tension
circuit is generated by a sensor in the
distributor. A trigger vane rotates in the gap
between a permanent magnet and the sensor.
The trigger vane has four cut-outs, one for
each cylinder. When one of the trigger vane
cut-outs is in line with the sensor, magnetic
flux can pass between the magnet and the
sensor. When a trigger vane segment is in line
with the sensor, the magnetic flux is diverted
through the trigger vane away from thesensor. The sensor senses the change in
magnetic flux, and sends an impulse to the
MSTS-i module, which switches off the low
tension circuit.
11On 1.8 litre models, the electrical impulse
that is required to switch off the low tension
circuit is generated by a crankshaft
speed/position sensor, which is activated by a
toothed wheel on the crankshaft. The toothed
wheel has 35 equally spaced teeth, with a gap
in the 36th position. The gap is used by the
sensor to determine the crankshaft position
relative to TDC (top dead centre) of No 1 piston.
12Engine load information is supplied to the
MSTS-i module by a pressure sensor, which
is connected to the carburettor by a vacuum
pipe. Additional information is supplied by an
oil temperature sensor. The module selects
the optimum ignition advance setting based
on the information received from the sensors.
The degree of advance can thus be constantly
varied to suit the prevailing engine conditions.
Multec, with MSTS-i
13The ignition system is fully electronic in
operation and incorporates the Electronic
Control Unit (ECU) mounted in the driver’s
footwell. A distributor (driven off the camshaft
left-hand end and incorporating the amplifier
module) as well as the octane coding plug,
the spark plugs, HT leads, ignition HT coil and
associated wiring.
14The ECU controls both the ignition system
and the fuel injection system, integrating the
two in a complete engine management
system. Refer to Chapters 4B and 4C for
further information that is not detailed here.
15For ignition the ECU receives information
in the form of electrical impulses or signals
from the distributor (giving it the engine speed
and crankshaft position), from the coolant
temperature sensor (giving it the engine
temperature) and from the manifold absolute
pressure sensor (giving it the load on the
engine). In addition, the ECU receives input
from the octane coding plug (to provide
ignition timing appropriate to the grade of fuel
used) and from, where fitted, the automatic
transmission control unit (to smooth gear
changing by retarding the ignition as changes
are made).
16All these signals are compared by the
ECU with set values pre-programmed
(mapped) into its memory. Considering this
information, the ECU selects the ignition
timing appropriate to those values and
controls the ignition HT coil by way of the
amplifier module accordingly.
17The system is so sensitive that, at idle
speed, the ignition timing may be constantly
changing; this should be remembered if trying
to check the ignition timing.
18The system fitted to C18 NZ models, is
similar to that described above, except that
the amplifier module is separate. The ECU
determines engine speed and crankshaft
position using a sensor mounted in the
right-hand front end of the engine’s cylinderblock; this registers with a 58-toothed disc
mounted on the crankshaft so that the gap left
by the missing two teeth provides a reference
point, so enabling the ECU to recognise TDC.
19Note that this simplifies the distributor’s
function, which is merely to distribute the HT
pulse to the appropriate spark plug; it has no
effect whatsoever on the ignition timing.
DIS (Direct Ignition System)
20On all X16 SZ engines, and on C20 XE
(DOHC) engines from 1993-on, a DIS (Direct
Ignition System) module is used in place of
the distributor and coil. On the X16 SZ engine
the DIS module is attached to the camshaft
housing in the position normally occupied by
the distributor. On the C20 XE engine, a
camshaft phase sensor is attached to the
cylinder head at the non-driven end of the
exhaust camshaft, in the position normally
occupied by the distributor. The DIS module
is attached, by a bracket, to the cylinder head
at the non-driven end of the inlet camshaft.
21The DIS module consists of two ignition
coils and an electronic control module housed
in a cast casing. Each ignition coil supplies
two spark plugs with HT voltage. One spark is
provided in a cylinder with its piston on the
compression stroke, and one spark is
provided to a cylinder with its piston on the
exhaust stroke. This means that a “wasted
spark” is supplied to one cylinder during each
ignition cycle, but this has no detrimental
effect. This system has the advantage that
there are no moving parts (therefore there is
no wear), and the system is largely
maintenance-free.
Motronic M4.1 and M1.5
22This system controls both the ignition and
the fuel injection systems.
23The Motronic module receives information
from a crankshaft speed/position sensor, an
engine coolant temperature sensor mounted
in the thermostat housing. A throttle position
sensor, an airflow meter, and on models fitted
with a catalytic converter, an oxygen sensor
mounted in the exhaust system (Chapter 4C).
24The module provides outputs to control
the fuel pump, fuel injectors, idle speed and
ignition circuit. Using the inputs from the
various sensors, the module computes the
optimum ignition advance, and fuel injector
pulse duration, to suit the prevailing engine
conditions. This system gives very accurate
control of the engine under all conditions,
improving fuel consumption and driveability,
and reducing exhaust gas emissions.
25Further details of the fuel injection system
components are given in Chapter 4B.
Motronic M2.5 and M2.8
26The system is similar to that described for
SOHC models, with the following differences.
27Along with the crankshaft speed/position
sensor, a “Hall-effect” distributor is used
(similar to that described in this Section, with
the MSTS-i system).
Engine electrical systems 5•3
5

28The system also incorporates a separate
ignition amplifier module that transmits
amplified signals from the main system
module to trigger the HT pulse from the
ignition coil. The module is mounted on the
ignition coil’s bracket/baseplate.
29Additionally, the Motronic module
receives information from a cylinder
block-mounted knock sensor, which senses
“knocking” (or pre-ignition) just as it begins to
occur, enabling the module to retard the
ignition timing, thus preventing engine
damage.
Simtec 56.1
30This system uses increased amount of
electronic components instead of mechanical
parts as sensors and actuators with the
Simtec engine management system. This
provides more precise operating data as well
as greater problem free motoring.
31The control unit is equipped with
electronic ignition control. Called ‘Micropro-
cessor Spark Timing System, inductive
triggered’, (or MSTS-i), and means that the
mechanical high voltage distributor is no
longer needed. It is located behind the trim
panel, on the right-hand side footwell (door
pillar).
32The ignition coil is replaced by a dual
spark ignition coil, which is switched directly
by the output stages in the control unit.
33A camshaft sensor will maintain
emergency operation, should the crankshaft
inductive pulse pick-up, malfunction. These
sense TDC (‘Top Dead Centre’), crankshaft
angle and engine speed. The signals are used
by the control unit to calculate ignition point
and for fuel injection.
34The ‘hot film airflow meter’ determines the
mass of air taken in by the engine. The system
uses this information to calculate the correct
amount of fuel needed for injection in the
engine.
35The air inlet temperature sensor (NTC), is
fitted in the air inlet duct between the air
cleaner and the hot mass air flow meter.
36A controlled canister purge valve is
actuated by the system. The tank ventilation is
monitored closely with the Lambda control (or
oxygen sensor) and adaptation by the
computer within the control unit.
37A knock control system is also fitted. This
eliminates the need for octane number
adjustment, as it is performed automatically
through the control unit.
3Electrical system -
precautions
1It is necessary to take extra care when
working on the electrical system, to avoid
damage to semi-conductor devices (diodes
and transistors), and to avoid the risk of
personal injury. Along with the precautions
given in the “Safety first!” Section at the
beginning of this manual, take note of the
following points when working on the system.
2Always remove rings, watches, etc. before
working on the electrical system. Even with
the battery disconnected, discharge could
occur if a component live terminal is earthed
through a metal object. This could cause a
shock or nasty burn.
3Do not reverse the battery connections.
Components such as the alternator, or any
other component having semi-conductor
circuitry, could be irreparably damaged.
4If the engine is being started using jump
leads and a slave battery, connect the
batteries positive to positive and negative to
negative. This also applies when connecting a
battery charger.
5Never disconnect the battery terminals, or
alternator multi-plug connector, when the
engine is running.
6The battery leads and alternator wiring
must be disconnected before carrying out any
electric welding on the vehicle.
7Never use an ohmmeter of the type
incorporating a hand-cranked generator for
circuit or continuity testing.
8Engine management modules are very
sensitive components, and certain
precautions must be taken, to avoid damage
to the module when working on a vehicle
equipped with an engine management
system, as follows.
9When carrying out welding operations on
the vehicle using electric welding equipment,
the battery and alternator should be
disconnected.
10Although underbonnet-mounted modules
will tolerate normal underbonnet conditions,
they can be adversely affected by excess heat
or moisture. If using welding equipment or
pressure washing equipment near the
module, take care not to direct heat, or jets of
water or steam, at the module. If this cannot
be avoided, remove the module from the
vehicle, and protect its wiring plug with a
plastic bag.
11Before disconnecting any wiring, or
removing components, always ensure that the
ignition is switched off.
12Do not attempt to improvise fault
diagnosis procedures using a test lamp or
multimeter, as irreparable damage could be
caused to the module.13After working on ignition/engine
management system components, ensure
that all wiring is correctly reconnected before
reconnecting the battery or switching on the
ignition.
14Any ignition system that uses a
“Hall-effect” generator in the distributor,
cannot be tested. Test equipment that uses
its own power source (e.g. an ohmmeter),
when connected to the distributor or the
“Hall-effect” generator, will be damaged.
4Ignition system testing -
general
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding.
Always switch off the ignition before
disconnecting or connecting any component
and when using a multi-meter to check
resistances. Any voltmeter or multi-meter
used to test ignition system components must
have an impedance of 10 meg ohms or
greater
1Electronic ignition system components are
normally very reliable. Most faults are far more
likely to be due to loose or dirty connections,
or to “tracking” of HT voltage due to dirt,
dampness or damaged insulation than to
component failure. Always check all wiring
thoroughly before condemning an electrical
component and work methodically to
eliminate all other possibilities before deciding
that a particular component is faulty.
2The old practice of checking for a spark by
holding the live end of a HT lead a short
distance away from the engine is not
recommended. Not only is there a high risk of
a powerful electric shock, but the ignition coil
or amplifier module will be damaged.
Similarly, never try to “diagnose” misfires by
pulling off one HT lead at a time. Note also
that the ECU is at risk if the system is
triggered with an open (i.e., not properly
earthed) HT circuit; ECU’s are very expensive
to replace, so take care!
3If you are in any doubt as to your skill and
ability to test an ignition system component or
if you do not have the required equipment,
take the vehicle to a suitably equipped
Vauxhall dealer. It is better to pay the labour
charges involved in having the vehicle
checked by an expert than to risk damage to
the system or to yourself.
4If the engine either will not turn over at all,
or only turns very slowly, check the battery
and starter motor. Connect a voltmeter across
the battery terminals (meter positive probe to
battery positive terminal) and disconnect the
ignition coil HT lead from the distributor cap
and earth. Note the voltage reading obtained
while turning over the engine on the starter for
(no more than) ten seconds. If the reading
obtained is less than approximately 9.5 volts,
check the battery, battery connections, starter
motor and charging system.
5•4Engine electrical systems
Warning: The HT voltage
generated by an electronic
ignition system is extremely
high and, in certain
circumstances, could prove fatal. Take
care to avoid receiving electric shocks
from the HT side of the ignition system.
Do not handle HT leads, or touch the
distributor or coil, when the engine is
running. If tracing faults in the HT circuit,
use well-insulated tools to manipulate live
leads

9Alternator-removal and
refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 3 before proceeding
Except ‘compact’ series
alternators
Removal
1Disconnect the battery leads.
2Disconnect the air trunking from the air
cleaner, and the air box or throttle body, as
applicable, and remove it for improved
access.
3Disconnect the wiring plug, or disconnect
the wires from their terminals on the rear of
the alternator, noting their locations (see
illustration).
4Remove the drivebelt, (Section 8).
5Unscrew the two mounting bolts and nuts
and recover any washers and insulating
bushes, noting their locations. Note the earth
strap attached to the top mounting bolt (see
illustration).
6Withdraw the alternator, taking care not to
knock or drop it, as this can cause irreparable
damage.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Ensure that the earth lead is in place on the
top mounting bolt.
9Refit and tension the drivebelt, (Section 8).
‘Compact’ series alternators
Removal
10Disconnect the battery negative lead.
11Remove the air inlet trunking and, if
necessary for improved access, the air
cleaner assembly.
12Mark the rotational direction on the
alternator drivebelt with chalk.
13Using a spanner or socket on the
automatic tensioning roller hexagon turn the
tensioning roller clockwise (as viewed from
the right-hand side of the car) and hold it in
this position. With the drivebelt tension
released, slip the drivebelt off the alternator
pulley, then allow the tensioner to return to its
original position.14Disconnect the electrical cable
connections at the rear of the alternator.
15Undo and remove the alternator lower
mounting bolt, and slacken both upper bolts
that secure the alternator mounting brackets
to the engine.
16Undo and remove both bolts that secure
the alternator to its mounting brackets, noting
the location of the different length bolts.
Swing the brackets clear and remove the
alternator from the engine.
Refitting
17Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten
the mounting bolts to the specified torque,
and refit the drivebelt as described in
Section 8.
10Alternator -testing
5
Due to the specialist knowledge and
equipment required to test or service an
alternator, it is recommended that if a fault is
suspected, the vehicle is taken to a dealer or a
specialist. Information is limited to the
inspection and renewal of the brushes.
Should the alternator not charge, or the
system be suspect, the following points may
be checked before seeking further assistance:
a)Check the drivebelt tension, as described
in Section 8
b)Check the condition of the battery and its
connections -see Section 5c)Inspect all electrical cables and
connections for condition and security
Note that if the alternator is found to be
faulty, it may prove more economical to buy a
factory-reconditioned unit, rather than having
the existing unit overhauled.
11Alternator brushes -removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Removal
Delco-Remy type (except ‘compact’
series)
1Remove the alternator, as described in
Section 9
2Scribe a line across the drive end housing
and the slip ring end housing, to ensure
correct alignment when reassembling.
3Unscrew the three through-bolts, and prise
the drive end housing and rotor away from the
slip ring end housing and stator (see
illustration).
4Check the condition of the slip rings, and if
necessary clean with a rag or very fine glass
paper (see illustration).
5Remove the three nuts and washers
securing the stator leads to the rectifier, and
lift away the stator assembly (see
illustration).
Engine electrical systems 5•7
11.3 Separating the drive end housing
from the slip ring end housing - Delco-
Remy alternator
11.4 Alternator slip rings (arrowed) -
Delco-Remy alternator
11.5 Delco-Remy alternator
A Stator lead securing nuts
B Brush holder/voltage regulator
securing screws
9.5 Disconnecting the earth lead from the
top alternator mounting bolt9.3 Disconnecting the wires from the
terminals on the rear of the alternator -
Delco-Remy alternator
5

6Remove the terminal screw and lift out the
diode assembly.
7Extract the two screws securing the brush
holder and voltage regulator to the slip ring
end housing, and remove the brush holder
assembly. Note the insulation washers under
the screw heads.
8Check that the brushes move freely in their
guides, and that the brush lengths are within
the limits given in the Specifications. If any
doubt exists regarding the condition of the
brushes, the best policy is to renew them.
9To fit new brushes, unsolder the old brush
leads from the brush holder, and solder on the
new leads in exactly the same place.
10Check that the new brushes move freely
in the guides.
Refitting
11Before refitting the brush holder
assembly, retain the brushes in the retracted
position using a stiff piece of wire or a twist
drill.
12Refit the brush holder assembly so that
the wire or drill protrudes through the slot in
the slip ring end housing, and tighten the
securing screws.
13Refit the diode assembly and the stator
assembly to the housing, ensuring that the
stator leads are in their correct positions, and
refit the terminal screw and nuts.
14Assemble the drive end housing and rotor
to the slip ring end housing, ensuring that the
previously made marks are aligned. Insert and
tighten the three through-bolts.
15Pull the wire or drill, as applicable, from
the slot in the slip ring end housing so that the
brushes rest on the rotor slip rings (see
illustration).
16Refit the alternator, as described in
Section 9
Bosch type alternator
Removal
17Disconnect the air trunking from the air
cleaner, and the air box or throttle body, as
applicable, and remove it for improved
access.
18Disconnect the battery leads.
19If desired, to improve access further, the
alternator can be removed, as described in
Section 920Remove the two securing screws, and
withdraw the brush holder/voltage regulator
assembly (see illustrations).
21Check that the brushes move freely in
their guides, and that the brush lengths are
within the limits given in the Specifications
(see illustration). If any doubt exists
regarding the condition of the brushes, the
best policy is to renew them as follows.
22Hold the brush wire with a pair of pliers,
and unsolder it from the brush holder. Lift away
the brush. Repeat for the remaining brush.
Refitting
23Note that whenever new brushes are
fitted, new brush springs should also be fitted.
24With the new springs fitted to the brush
holder, insert the new brushes, and check that
they move freely in their guides. If they bind,
lightly polish with a very fine file or glass
paper.
25Solder the brush wire ends to the brush
holder, taking care not to allow solder to pass
to the stranded wire.
26Check the condition of the slip rings, and
if necessary clean with a rag or very fine glass
paper (see illustration).
27Refit the brush holder/voltage regulator
assembly, and tighten the securing screws.
28Where applicable, refit the alternator, as
described in Section 9
29Reconnect the battery leads.
30Refit the air trunking.
Delco-Remy “compact” series
Removal
31Remove the alternator as described in
Section 9.
32Remove the plastic cover from the rear of
the alternator.
33Undo the two bolts securing the brush
holder to the rear of the alternator, noting that
one of the bolts also secures the suppression
capacitor.
34Remove the suppression capacitor then
withdraw the brush holder, noting the flat plug
on the side.
35Check that the brushes move freely in
their holder and that the brush lengths are
within the limits given in the Specifications. If
any doubt exists regarding the condition of
the brushes, the best policy is to renew them.36Check the condition of the slip rings, and
if necessary clean with a rag or very fine glass
paper.
Refitting
37Refitting the brushes is a reversal of
removal.
12Starter motor - general
1The starter motor is mounted at the rear of
the cylinder block, and may be of either
Delco-Remy or Bosch manufacture. Both
makes are of the pre-engaged type, i.e. the
drive pinion is brought into mesh with the
starter ring gear on the flywheel before the
main current is applied.
5•8Engine electrical systems
11.15 Withdrawing the twist drill used to
retain the brushes -
Delco-Remy alternator11.20B . . .and withdraw the brush
holder/voltage regulator assembly - Bosch
alternator
11.26 Alternator slip rings (arrowed) -
Bosch alternator
11.21 Measuring the length of an
alternator brush - Bosch alternator
11.20A Remove the securing screws . . .

11
Torque wrench settingNm lbf ft
Front seat rails to floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Seat belt fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
1 General description
The bodyshell and floorpan are of pressed
steel, and form an integral part of the vehicle’s
structure, without the need for a separate
chassis.
Various areas are strengthened, to provide
for suspension, steering and engine mounting
points, and load distribution.
Extensive corrosion protection is applied to
all new vehicles. Various anti-corrosion
preparations are used, including galvanising
and PVC under-sealing. Protective wax is
injected into the box sections and other
hollow cavities.
Extensive use is made of plastic for
peripheral components, such as the radiator
grille, bumpers and wheel trims, and for much
of the interior trim.Interior fittings are to a high standard on all
models, and a wide range of optional
equipment is available throughout the range.
Except for the rear quarter windows, all
fixed glass is bonded in position, using a
special adhesive. Any work in this area should
be entrusted to a Vauxhall dealer or glass
replacement specialist.
2 Bodywork and underframe -
maintenance
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those partsof the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids that may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud that will retain moisture and
tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough, the
best time to clean the underframe and wheel
arches is in wet weather when the mud is
thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather
the underframe is usually cleaned of large
accumulations automatically and this is a
good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Bodywork and underframe - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Bonnet lock release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid lock (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Boot lid lock cylinder (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . .11
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door check arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Door interior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door mirror - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Door window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Engine undershield (DOHC models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .32
Facia panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Fuel filler flap - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Interior trim panels - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Interior trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Radiator grille panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Rear quarter windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Seat belt tensioners - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Seats (without tensioners) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Seats, front (with seat belt tensioners) - removal and refitting . . . . . .43
Sunroof - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Tailgate (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Tailgate lock (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .13
Tailgate lock cylinder (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . .14
Tailgate strut (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Wheel arch liners - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Windscreen and rear window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Windscreen cowl panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
11•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass fibre
matting, is probably the best material to use
for a large hole. Cut a piece to the
approximate size and shape of the hole to be
filled, then position it in the hole so that its
edges are below the level of the surrounding
bodywork. It can be retained in position by
several blobs of filler paste around its
periphery.
Aluminium tape should be used for small or
very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and
trim it to the approximate size and shape
required. Then pull off the backing paper (if
used) and stick the tape over the hole. It can
be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is
insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the
tape with the handle of a screwdriver or
similar, to ensure that the tape is securely
attached to the metal underneath.
Bodywork repairs filling and
re-spraying
Before using this Section, see the Sections
on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash
repairs.
Many types of bodyfiller are available, but
generally those proprietary kits that contain a
tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener
are best for this type of repair. These can be
used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible
plastic or nylon applicator will be found
invaluable for imparting a smooth and well-
contoured finish to the surface of the filler.
Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card
or board - measure the hardener carefully
(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)
otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too
slowly. Using the applicator apply the filler
paste to the prepared area; draw the
applicator across the surface of the filler to
achieve the correct contour and to level the
filler surface. When a contour that
approximates to the correct one is achieved,
stop working the paste - if you carry on too
long the paste will become sticky and begin to
“pick up” on the applicator. Continue to add
thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute
intervals until the level of the filler is just proud
of the surrounding bodywork.
Once the filler has hardened, excess can be
removed using a metal plane or file. From then
on, progressively finer grades of abrasive
paper should be used, starting with a 40
grade production paper and finishing with 400
grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the
abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or
wooden block otherwise the surface of the
filler will not be completely flat. During the
smoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-dry
paper should be periodically rinsed in water.
This will ensure that a very smooth finish is
imparted to the filler at the final stage.
At this stage the “dent” should be
surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in
turn should be encircled by the finely
“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.
Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all
the dust produced by the rubbing-down
operation has gone.Spray the whole repair area with a light coat
of primer. This will show up any imperfections
in the surface of the filler. Repair these
imperfections with fresh filler paste or
bodystopper, and again smooth the surface
with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it
can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a
thin paste that is ideal for filling small holes.
Repeat this spray and repair procedure until
you are satisfied that the surface of the filler,
and the feathered edge of the paintwork are
perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water
and allow to dry fully.
The repair area is now ready for final
spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out
in a warm, dry, windless and dust free
atmosphere. This condition can be created
artificially if you have access to a large indoor
working area, but if you are forced to work in
the open, you will have to pick your day very
carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing
the floor in the work area with water will help
to settle the dust that would otherwise be in
the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined
to one body panel, mask off the surrounding
panels; this will help to minimise the effects of
a slight miss-match in paint colours.
Bodywork fittings (e.g. chrome strips, door
handles, etc.), will also need to be masked off.
Use genuine masking tape and several
thicknesses of newspaper for the masking
operations.
Before beginning to spray, agitate the
aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area
(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is
mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick
coat of primer; the thickness should be built
up using several thin layers of paint rather
than one thick one. Using 400 grade
wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of
the primer until it is smooth. While doing this,
the work area should be thoroughly doused
with water, and the wet-and-dry paper
periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry
before spraying on more paint.
Spray on the top coat, again building up the
thickness by using several thin layers of paint.
Start spraying in the centre of the repair area
and then work outwards, with a side-to-side
motion, until the whole repair area and about
2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork
is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to
15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of
paint.
Allow the new paint at least two weeks to
harden, then using a paintwork renovator or a
very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the
paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply
wax polish.
Plastic components
With the use of more and more plastic body
components (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), repair of
more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of suchdamage by the DIY owner is not feasible
owing to the cost of the equipment and
materials required for effecting such repairs.
The basic technique involves making a groove
along the line of the crack in the plastic using
a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged
part is then welded back together by using a
hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler
rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then
removed and the area rubbed down to a
smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of
the correct plastic is used, as body
components can be made of a variety of
different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene).
Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,
minor cracks, etc.), can be repaired by the DIY
owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair
material. Once mixed in equal proportions this
is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler
used on metal panels. The filler is usually
cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for
sanding and painting.
If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will have a problem of
finding a paint for finishing which is
compatible with the type of plastic used. At
one time the use of a universal paint was not
possible owing to the complex range of
plastics come across in body component
applications. Standard paints, generally, will
not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but
special paints are available to match any
plastic or rubber finish can be obtained from
dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain
a plastic body parts finishing kit that consists
of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and
coloured top coat. Full instructions are
normally supplied with a kit, but the method of
use is to first apply the pre-primer to the
component concerned and allow it to dry for
up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied
and left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
5Major body damage - repair
5
Major impact or rust damage should only
be repaired by a Vauxhall dealer or other
competent specialist. Alignment jigs are
needed for successful completion of such
work, superficially effective repairs may leave
dangerous weaknesses in the structure.
Distorted components can also impose
severe stresses on steering and suspension
components with consequent premature
failure.
Bodywork and fittings 11•3
11