1988 OPEL VECTRA air condition

2Also check the security and condition of all
the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable-ties or securing clips are in
place, and in good condition. Clips that are
broken or missing can lead to chafing of the
hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause
more serious problems in the future.
3Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose that is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the
hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks. It is always beneficial to renew
hose clips whenever possible.
4Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces, etc.) for leaks.
5Where any problems are found on system
components, renew the component or gasket
with reference to Chapter 3.
6Where applicable, inspect the automatic
transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or
deterioration.
7With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and
other damage. The connection between the
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.
8Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses, which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
9From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
10Where applicable, check the condition of
the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.5Steering and suspension
check
2
Front suspension and steering
check
1Raise the front of the car, and support on
axle stands (“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for
splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of
these components will cause loss of lubricant,
together with dirt and water entry, resulting in
rapid wear of the balljoints or steering gear.
3On vehicles with power steering, check the
fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and
the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also
check for signs of fluid leakage under
pressure from the steering gear rubber
gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals
within the steering gear.
4Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
but if the movement is appreciable, further
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.
Any movement felt now may again be caused
by wear in the hub bearings or the steering
track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint
is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
6Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
7Inspect the front suspension lower arms for
distortion or damage (Chapter 10, Section 5).
8With the car standing on its wheels, have an
assistant turn the steering wheel back and
forth about an eighth of a turn each way.
There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and the rack-
and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/shock
absorber check
Note:Suspension struts/shock absorbers
should always be renewed in pairs on the
same axle.9Check for any signs of fluid leakage around
the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or
from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod.
Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension
strut/shock absorber is defective internally,
and should be renewed.
10The efficiency of the suspension
strut/shock absorber may be checked by
bouncing the vehicle at each corner. The body
will return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the suspension strut/shock
absorber is probably suspect. Examine also
the suspension strut/shock absorber upper
and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
6Driveshaft gaiter check
2
With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on stands, turn the steering onto
full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.
Inspect the condition of the outer constant
velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing
the gaiters to open out the folds (see
illustration). Check for signs of cracking,
splits or deterioration of the rubber, which
may allow the grease to escape, and lead to
water and grit entry into the joint. Also check
the security and condition of the retaining
clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV
joints. If any damage or deterioration is found,
the gaiters should be renewed as described in
Chapter 8.
1•10Every 9000 miles or 12 months
6.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft
gaiters (A) and clips (B)
5.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings by
grasping the wheel and trying to rock it
A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white or rust coloured
deposits on the area adjoining the leak

At the same time, check the general
condition of the CV joints themselves by first
holding the driveshaft and attempting to
rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding
the inner joint and attempting to rotate the
driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, wear in the
driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft
retaining nut.
7Automatic transmission fluid
level check
2
Note: The transmission fluid level can be
checked either when it is cold (only below
35ºC (100ºF) outside temperature) or when it is
fully warmed up to normal operating
temperature (after driving for a distance of
approximately 12 miles/20 km). Since the fluid
level must be checked with the engine
running, ensure that the vehicle is parked on
level ground with the handbrake firmly applied
before leaving the driver’s seat. Be careful to
keep loose clothing, long hair, etc., well clear
of hot or moving components when working
under the bonnet
Transmission cold
1Park the vehicle on level ground and apply
the handbrake firmly. With the engine running
at no more than idle speed and your foot
firmly on the brake pedal, move the selector
lever through all positions, ending in position
“P”. Allow the engine to idle for one minute,
then check the level within two minutes.
2With the engine still idling and position “P”
still selected, open the bonnet and withdraw
the transmission dipstick from the filler tube
located in the front of the transmission casing,
at the left-hand end of the engine.
3Note the fluid’s condition (see below), then
wipe clean the dipstick using a clean,
non-fluffy rag, insert it fully back into the tube
and withdraw it again.
4The level should be up to the “MAX” mark
on the “+20°C” side of the dipstick (see
illustration).
5If topping-up is required, switch off the
ignition and add only good quality fluid of the
specified type through the filler tube. Ifsignificant amounts of fluid are being lost
(carefully note the amounts being added, and
how often), check the transmission for leaks
and either repair the fault or take the vehicle to
a Vauxhall dealer for attention.
6When the level is correct, ensure that the
dipstick is pressed firmly into the filler tube.
Transmission fully warmed up
7Work exactly as described above, but take
the level reading from the “+ 80°C” side of the
dipstick. In this case, the level must be
between the dipstick “MAX” and “MIN”
marks.
Checking the fluid’s condition
8Whenever the fluid level is checked,
examine the condition of the fluid and
compare its colour, smell and texture with that
of new fluid.
9If the fluid is dark, almost black, and smells
burnt, it is possible that the transmission
friction material is worn or disintegrating. The
vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall dealer
or automatic transmission specialist for
immediate attention.
10If the fluid is milky, this is due to the
presence of emulsified droplets of water. This
may be caused either by condensation after a
prolonged period of short journeys or by the
entry of water through the dipstick/filler tube
or breather. If the fluid does not revert to its
normal appearance after a long journey it
must be renewed or advice should be sought
from a Vauxhall dealer or automatic
transmission specialist.
11If the fluid is varnish-like (i.e. light to dark
brown and tacky) it has oxidised due to
overheating or to over or under filling. If
renewal of the fluid does not cure the
problem, the vehicle should be taken to a
Vauxhall dealer or automatic transmission
specialist for immediate attention.
12If at any time on checking the fluid level or
on draining the fluid, particles of dirt, metal
chips or other foreign matter are found in the
fluid, the vehicle must be taken to a Vauxhall
dealer or automatic transmission specialist for
immediate attention. It may be necessary to
strip, clean and reassemble at least the valve
body, if not the complete transmission, to
rectify any fault.
8Radiator inspection and
cleaning
1
1Inspect radiator for leaks or corrosion,
especially around the outlet or inlet
connectors.
2Clean the radiator with a soft brush or
compressed air. Remove any debris, like dead
insects or leaves.
3If leaks are visible, replace radiator. Refer to
Chapter 3, if necessary.
9Idle speed and mixture -
adjustment
2
Note: On certain models, the idle and mixture
are automatically adjusted by a control unit,
therefore cannot be altered.
Refer to Chapters 4A or 4B as applicable.
10Throttle linkage
maintenance
2
On models built before 1992, lubricate the
throttle linkage, as described in Chapters 4A
or 4B, as applicable.
11Exhaust system check
2
1With the engine off, check the security of
the exhaust system. Pay particular attention
to the rubber mountings that suspend the
exhaust.
2Start the engine and check underneath for
leaks, which can be heard. This job is made
easier if you have access to a ramp.
3Listen for exhaust leaks from around the
front pipe to exhaust manifold joint.
4For further information, refer to Chapter 4C
12Wiring check
1
1Check all wiring in both the engine
compartment and under the car.
2Ensure that all wiring clips/clamps are secure.
3Pay particular attention to wiring near
components that get hot, i.e. exhaust
systems.
4Make sure that electrical connections are
secure and undamaged.
13Ignition timing
3
Refer to Chapter 5 for details.
Every 9000 miles or 12 months 1•11
7.4 When checking the fluid level, ensure
side of dipstick used corresponds with
fluid temperature
1
Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system
are considerably higher than
those produced by conventional
ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with
the ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep away from the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.

14Brake fluid renewal
3
Renew the brake and bleed the system.
Refer to Chapter 9 for full details.
15Brake pad check
2
With the front or rear (as applicable) of the
vehicle raised, remove the wheels and check
brake pads for wear. Renew the pads if the
lining is below that specified. See Chapter 9,
for specifications and full details.
16Handbrake linkage check
2
With the vehicle raised, check the operation
of the handbrake and lubricate the linkages.
Refer to Chapter 9, for further details.
17Power steering fluid check
2
1With the engine off, remove the cap from
the power steering reservoir. It is fitted with a
dipstick.
2The fluid should be visible up to the ‘MAX’
mark (1), (see illustration). If not, top it up
using specified fluid.
3Start the engine and immediately top-up
the fluid to the ‘MIN’ mark (2).
4Do not allow the reservoir to run dry.
5For details on how to bleed the system,
refer to Chapter 10.
18Power steering pump
drivebelt check
2
Note:Vauxhall specify the use of a special
gauge. Checking values for use with this
gauge are given in the Specifications in
Chapter 10, for reference.
Checking
1The correct belt tension can be
approximated by adjusting the length of the
threaded rod. This should give a belt
deflection of approximately 10.0 mm (0.4 in)
under moderate thumb pressure at the
midpoint of the belt run between the pulleys. If
in doubt, err on the slack side, as an
excessively tight belt may cause pump
damage.
2Check the condition of the belt and renew it
if there are any signs of damage or excessive
wear
Adjustment
3Slacken the adjuster and mounting bolts.
4Slacken the adjuster nuts, and adjust the
length of the threaded rod to remove or
tension the belt as desired (see illustration).
5Tighten the adjuster nuts, and tighten the
adjuster and mounting bolts to the specified
torque (see Chapter 10), on completion.
6If a new drivebelt has been fitted, recheck
the tension after a few hundred miles.
19Rear suspension level
control system check
2
Refer to Chapter 10, for details.
20Bodywork check
1
1Clean the outside of the vehicle. If possible,
clean underneath as well. If using a pressure
cleaner take care not to damage any electrical
components, especially in the engine
compartment.
2Check all around for signs of damage or
corrosion and treat accordingly. Repair stone
chips when you can to prevent rusting.
3Read Chapter 11, for more details.
21Lock and hinge check
2
1Lubricate locks and hinges on all doors,
tailgates (or boot lid) and bonnet.
2Check for wear or damage and ensure
correct operation of safety catches.
3Check security of the bonnet stay and it’s
securing clip.
4Read Chapter 11, for further details.
22Alternator V-belt check
2
Note:The new ribbed V-belt, fitted to later
models, can not be adjusted.
1Although special tools are available for
measuring the belt tension, a good
approximation can be achieved. Tension the
belt so that there is approximately 13.0 mm
(0.5 in) of free movement under firm thumb
pressure at the mid-point of the longest run
between pulleys.
2With the mounting bolts just holding the
unit, lever the alternator away from the engine
using a wooden lever at the mounting bracket
end until the correct tension is achieved. Then
1•12Every 9000 miles or 12 months
17.2 Topping-up the power steering fluid
level
18.4 Adjusting the length of the power
steering pump threaded rod
Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid
can harm your eyes and
damage painted surfaces, so
use extreme caution when
handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid
that has been standing open for some
time, as it absorbs moisture from the air.
Excess moisture can cause a dangerous
loss of braking effectiveness.
Old hydraulic fluid is usually
darker in colour than new
fluid.
For a quick check, the thickness of the
friction material on each brake pad can
be measured through the aperture in
the caliper body.

28Air inlet temperature control
check (carburettor models
only)
2
Refer to Chapter 4A for details.
29Fuel filter renewal
3
Fuel filters are fitted in various locations
throughout the range. Some may be ‘in-line’ in
the fuel tank itself, or fitted into the
carburettor.
Refer to Chapters 4A or 4B, as appropriate.
30Spark plug renewal (SOHC)
2
1The correct functioning of the spark plugs is
vital for the correct running and efficiency of
the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted
are appropriate for the engine. Refer to the
specifications in Chapter 5. If this type is used
and the engine is in good condition, the spark
plugs should not need attention between
scheduled service replacement intervals.
Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary and
should not be attempted unless specialised
equipment is available, as damage can easily
be caused to the firing ends.
2Identify each HT lead for position so that the
leads can be refitted to their correct cylinders.
Then disconnect the leads from the plugs by
pulling on the connectors, not the leads.
3Clean the area around each spark plug
using a small paintbrush, then using a plugspanner (preferably with a rubber insert),
unscrew and remove the plugs (see
illustration). Cover the spark plug holes with
a clean rag to prevent the ingress of any
foreign matter.
4The condition of the spark plugs will tell
much about the overall condition of the
engine.
5If the insulator nose of the spark plug is
clean and white, with no deposits, this is a
sign of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug (a hot
plug transfers heat away from the electrode
slowly -a cold plug transfers heat away
quickly).
6If the tip and insulator nose is covered with
hard black-looking deposits, then this is
indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should
the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that
the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture
being too rich.
7If the insulator nose is covered with light tan
to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is
correct, and it is likely that the engine is in
good condition.
8The spark plug gap is of considerable
importance, because if it is either too large or
too small, the size of the spark and its
efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark
plug gap should be set to the figure given in
the Specifications, in Chapter 5.
9To set it, measure the gap with a feeler
blade and then bend open, or close, the outer
plug electrode until the correct gap is
achieved. The centre electrode should never
be bent, as this may crack the insulation and
cause plug failure, if nothing worse (see
illustrations).10Before fitting new spark plugs check that
their threaded connector sleeves are tight.
11Screw in the plugs by hand, then tighten
them to the specified torque. Do not exceed
the torque figure.
12Push the HT leads firmly onto the spark
plugs, ensuring that they are connected to
their correct cylinders.
31Distributor cap and HT lead
check
3
1Remove the distributor cap and HT leads,
and wipe them clean.
2Also wipe clean the coil connections.
Remove the rotor arm, then visually check the
distributor cap, rotor arm and HT leads for
hairline cracks, and signs of arcing.
1•14Every 18 000 miles or 24 months
30.9A Tools required for spark plug
removal, gap adjustment and refitting30.9C Measuring the spark plug gap with
feeler blade30.9B Measuring the spark plug gap with
wire gauge
30.3 Removing a spark plugWarning: Before carrying out
the following operation, refer to
the precautions given in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of this
manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol
is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid,
and the precautions necessary when
handling it cannot be overstressed.
It is very often difficult to insert spark
plugs into their holes without cross-
threading them. To avoid this, fit a
short length of 8 mm (internal
diameter), rubber hose over the end of
the spark plug. The flexible hose acts
as a universal joint to help align the
plug correctly. Should the plug begin to
cross-thread, the hose will slip on the
spark plug, preventing damage to the
thread in the cylinder head.
Number the HT leads before
removal to ensure correct
refitting.

36Timing belt renewal
3
1To minimise risk of major damage to the
engine the timing belt (or cambelt, as it is
sometimes called), needs replacing at least,
on every major service.
2It is good practise however, not only to
renew the belt whenever major engine work is
carried out, but also if you buy a used car with
unclear service history.
3Some models are fitted with an inspection
cover to view the condition of the belt. Whilst
others involve a lot more work.
4Full details on checking and replacement
are shown in Chapters 2A or 2B, as
appropriate.
37Spark plug renewal (DOHC)
2
1This procedure is basically the same shown
in Section 30. However on these models, a
spark plug cover needs to be removed from
the camshaft cover before the plugs can be
removed.
2Take great care when removing and
refitting spark plugs on these engines (see
illustration). Hairline cracks in the ceramic of
the plug can cause occasional or complete
ignition failure. Damage to the catalytic
converter may also occur.
3Special tool (Vauxhall No. KM-194-B), with
a 3 part conical sliding element have beenmade available, to reduce the risk of plug
damage (see illustration).
4After refitting the spark plugs, remember to
replace the plug cover.38Automatic transmission fluid
renewal
2
Renew the transmission fluid as detailed in
Chapter 7B.
1•16Every 36 000 miles or 48 months
37.3 Removing spark plugs using special adapter (DOHC models)
A Torque wrench
B ExtensionC Joint
D Special adapter (P/N KM-194-B)
37.2 Removing a spark plug -
DOHC model
Major service, every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 48 months

Apply a little grease to the threads of the
securing bolt, and tighten it to the specified
torque in the two stages given in the Specifi-
cations. Ensure that the thrustwasher is in
place under the bolt head, and prevent the
crankshaft from turning as during removal.
23Refit the camshaft sprockets. Ensure that
the locating pins on the ends of the camshafts
engage with the holes in the sprockets and
with the sprocket timing marks facing
forwards. Then tighten the securing bolts to
the specified torque in the two stages given in
the Specifications. Prevent the camshafts
from turning as during removal.
24Check the condition of the camshaft
cover rubber gasket and renew if necessary,
then refit the camshaft cover and tighten the
securing bolts (see illustration).
25Refit the HT leads to the spark plugs
(ensuring that they are refitted to their correct
cylinders), then clip the leads to the end of the
camshaft cover. Refit the spark plug cover
and tighten the securing bolts.
26Reconnect the breather hose to the
camshaft cover.
27Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and ensure that the crankshaft pulley and
camshaft sprocket timing marks are still
aligned as described in paragraph 6. Then fit a
new timing belt around the sprockets and
pulleys, starting at the crankshaft sprocket.
28Refit the crankshaft pulley, and tighten the
securing bolts to the specified torque. If
necessary, prevent the crankshaft from
turning as during removal. 29Adjust the timing belt tension, as
described from paragraph 35 onwards.
30Refit the outer timing belt cover, ensuring
that the rubber grommets are in place in the
screw holes, and tighten the securing screws.
31Refit the alternator drivebelt and adjust
the drivebelt tension, as described in Chapter
5.
32Refit the power steering pump drivebelt
and adjust the drivebelt tension, as described
in Chapter 10.
33Refit the air cleaner components as
applicable, referring to Chapter 4B, if
necessary.
34Reconnect the battery negative lead.
Adjustment
Note: The manufacturers specify the use of
special adjustment wrench Vauxhall tool No
KM-666 for adjusting the timing belt tension. If
access to this tool cannot be obtained an
approximate adjustment can be achieved
using the method described in this Section.
However it is emphasised that the vehicle
should be taken to a dealer at the earliest
possible opportunity to have the tension
adjusted using the special tool. Do not drive
the vehicle over any long distance until the
belt tension has been adjusted by a dealer
Approximate adjustment
35No checking of timing belt adjustment is
specified, and the following adjustment
procedure applies to a newly fitted belt. The
adjustment must be carried out with the
engine cold.36With the timing belt cover removed and
the tensioner pulley bolt slackened, ensure
that the TDC marks on the camshaft
sprockets and the crankshaft pulley are
aligned as described in paragraph 6. If
necessary, turn the crankshaft to achieve
alignment.
37Have an assistant press the tensioner
pulley against the belt until the belt can just be
twisted through 45°, using moderate pressure
with the thumb and forefinger, on the longest
belt run between the exhaust camshaft
sprocket and the belt idler pulley.
38Have the assistant hold the tensioner
pulley in position, and tighten the tensioner
pulley bolt to the specified torque in the two
stages given in the Specifications.
39Turn the crankshaft clockwise through
two complete revolutions, and check that,
with the crankshaft pulley TDC mark aligned
with the pointer on the rear timing belt cover,
the TDC marks on the camshaft sprockets are
still aligned with the notches in the camshaft
cover.
40Proceed as described in paragraphs 30 to
34, inclusive.
41Have the belt tension adjusted by a
Vauxhall dealer using the manufacturer’s
special tool at the earliest opportunity.Adjustment using Vauxhall special
tool (KM-666)
42Proceed as described in paragraphs 35
and 36.
43Fit the special tool KM-666 to the belt
tensioner pulley mounting plate, in
accordance with the tool manufacturer’s
instructions.
44Working anti-clockwise from the TDC
mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket, mark
the seventh tooth on the sprocket (see
illustration).
45Turn the crankshaft clockwise until this
tooth is aligned with the TDC notch in the
camshaft cover. The crankshaft must be
turned evenly and without jerking, to prevent
the timing belt from jumping off the sprockets
and pulleys.
46Tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to the
specified torque in the two stages given in the
Specifications.
47Remove the special tool.
DOHC engine procedures 2B•5
4.21 Belt tensioner pulley and spacer
sleeve. Note that smaller diameter of
spacer sleeve fits against pulley
4.44 Working anti-clockwise from the TDC
mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket,
mark the seventh tooth on the sprocket4.24 Tightening a camshaft cover securing
bolt
4.19B Rear timing belt cover lower right-
hand securing bolt4.19A Timing belt outer cover screw upper
stud (1) and rear belt cover upper
securing bolts (2)
2B

25Flywheel -removal, inspection
and refitting
4
Note: New flywheel securing bolts must he
used on refitting. Certain models are fitted
with a ‘Pot type’ flywheel. Although, it has a
deeply recessed surface for the clutch disc,
the operations below are the same.
Removal
1If not already done, remove the clutch,
(Chapter 6), and the starter motor, (Chapter 5).
2If the engine is in the vehicle, remove the
clutch release bearing and its guide sleeve, as
described in Chapter 6.
3Although the flywheel bolt holes are offset
so that the flywheel can only be fitted in one
position, it will make refitting easier if
alignment marks are made between the
flywheel and the end of the crankshaft.
4Prevent the flywheel from turning by
jamming the ring gear teeth using a large
screwdriver or similar tool. Access is most
easily obtained through the starter motor
aperture if the engine is in the vehicle.
5Unscrew the securing bolts, and remove
the flywheel (see illustration). Take care, as
the flywheel is heavy!
Inspection
6With the flywheel removed, it can be
inspected as follows.
7If the teeth on the flywheel starter ring are
badly worn, or if some are missing, then it will
be necessary to remove the ring and fit a new
one.
8The old ring can be split with a cold chisel,
after making a cut with a hacksaw blade
between two gear teeth. Take great care not
to damage the flywheel during this operation,
and use eye protectors always. Once the ring
has been split, it will spread apart and can be
lifted from the flywheel.
9The new ring gear must be heated to 180 to
230°C (356 to 446°F) and unless facilities for
heating by oven or flame are available, leave
the fitting to a dealer or motor engineering
works. The new ring gear must not be
overheated during this work, or the temper of
the metal will be altered.10The ring should be tapped gently down
onto its register, and left to cool naturally -the
contraction of the metal on cooling will ensure
that it is a secure and permanent fit.
11If the clutch friction disc contact surface
of the flywheel is scored, or on close
inspection, show’s evidence of small hairline
cracks (caused by overheating), it may be
possible to have the flywheel surface ground.
This is provided that the overall thickness of
the flywheel is not reduced too much. Consult
a specialist engine repairer and if it is not
possible, renew the flywheel complete.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
13Align the previously made marks on the
flywheel and crankshaft, and fit new flywheel
securing bolts. Tighten them to the specified
torque in the two stages given in the Specifi-
cations, whilst preventing the flywheel from
turning, as during removal (see illustrations).
14Where applicable, refit the clutch release
bearing, guide sleeve, and the clutch, as
described in Chapter 6.
26Flexplate (automatic
transmission) -removal and
refitting
4
Removal
1Remove the transmission (Chapter 7B).
2Prevent the flexplate from turning by
jamming its ring gear teeth using a large
screwdriver or similar tool.
3Unbolt and remove the flexplate. Examine
the bolts and renew them all as a set if there is
the slightest doubt about their condition.
4The ring gear can be checked, and renewed
if necessary, as described in Section 25.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure. If the bolts are to be re-used, use a
wire brush to clean their threads, apply a few
drops of thread-locking compound (Vauxhall
Part No 90167347, or equivalent) to the
threads of each bolt on refitting. Tighten the
bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.6Refit the transmission, refer to Chapter 7B if
necessary.
27Crankshaft front oil seal -
renewal
3
Renewal
1Remove the timing belt and the rear timing
belt cover, as described in Section 11.
2Ensure that the Woodruff key is removed
from the end of the crankshaft.
3Punch or drill a small hole in the centre of
the now-exposed oil seal. Screw in a
self-tapping screw, and pull on the screw with
pliers to extract the seal. Several attempts
may be necessary. Be careful not to damage
the sealing face of the crankshaft.
4Clean the oil seal seat with a wooden or
plastic scraper.
5Before fitting the new oil seal, steps must
be taken to protect the oil seal lips from
damage, and from turning back on the
shoulder at the front end of the crankshaft.
Grease the seal lips, and then wind tape
around the end of the crankshaft to form a
gentle taper.
6Tap the seal into position using a large
socket or tube, until the seal is flush with the
outer face of the oil pump housing.
7Refit the rear timing belt cover and the
timing belt tension the timing belt as
described in Section 11.
2A•26SOHC engine procedures
25.13C . . .and then through the
specified angle -
1.6 litre engine25.13B Tighten the flywheel securing bolts
to the specified toque . . .25.13A Tool for locking flywheel fitted to
engine-to-transmission bolt hole -
1.6 litre engine
25.5 Removing the flywheel -
1.6 litre engine

5Note that the rubber plug located next to
the bellhousing flange on the cylinder block
covers the aperture for the installation of a
diagnostic TDC sensor. The sensor, when
connected to a monitoring unit, indicates TDC
from the position of the pins set into the
crankshaft balance weight.
37Examination and renovation
-general
4
General
1With the engine completely stripped, clean all
components and examine them for wear. Each
component should be checked, and where
necessary renewed or renovated, as described
in the relevant Sections of this Chapter.
2Renew main and big-end bearing shells as
a matter of course, unless it is known that
they have had little wear, and are in perfect
condition.
3If in doubt whether to renew a component
that is still just serviceable, consider the time
and effort that will be incurred should the
component fail at an early date after rebuild.
Obviously, the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.4Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel,
cylinder head, and main and big-end bearing
cap bolts must be renewed, because of the
high stress to which they are subjected.
5Renew the engine core plugs while they are
easily accessible, if they show signs of
leakage. Knock out the old plugs with a
hammer and chisel or punch. Clean the plug
seats, smear the new plugs with sealing
compound, and tap them squarely into
position.
38Initial start-up after major
overhaul or repair
2
1Make a final check to ensure that
everything has been reconnected to the
engine, and that no rags or tools have been
left in the engine compartment.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little longer
than usual, as fuel is pumped to the engine.
4Check that the oil pressure warning lamp
goes out when the engine starts. This may
take a few seconds as the new oil filter fills
with oil.5Run the engine at a fast tickover, and check
for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. If a new
camshaft has been fitted, pay careful
attention to the running-in procedure given in
Section 18, paragraphs 17 and 18. Where
applicable, check the power steering and/or
automatic transmission fluid cooler unions for
leakage. Some smoke and odd smells may be
experienced, as assembly lubricants and
sealers burn off the various components.
6Bring the engine to normal operating
temperature. Check the ignition timing, idle
speed and the mixture (where applicable), as
described in Chapter 4A or 4B.
7Allow the engine to cool, then recheck the
oil and coolant levels. Top-up if necessary
8If new bearings, pistons, etc., have been
fitted, the engine should be run-in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
2A•34SOHC engine procedures