1988 OPEL CALIBRA washer

REF•4General Repair Procedures
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it is
necessary to observe the following procedures
and instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used, unless
specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its
face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with new
ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found on
the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal injury,
but expensive damage could be caused to the
components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are
encountered during servicing or overhaul, they
should, wherever possible, be renewed or
refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.

MOTTest Checks REF•9
Seat belts and seats
Note: The following checks are applicable to
all seat belts, front and rear.
MExamine the webbing of all the belts
(including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious
fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten
each belt to check the buckles. If applicable,
check the retracting mechanism. Check the
security of all seat belt mountings accessible
from inside the vehicle.
MThe front seats themselves must be
securely attached and the backrests must
lock in the upright position.
Doors
MBoth front doors must be able to be opened
and closed from outside and inside, and must
latch securely when closed.
Vehicle identification
MNumber plates must be in good condition,
secure and legible, with letters and numbers
correctly spaced – spacing at (A) should be
twice that at (B).
MThe VIN plate and/or homologation plate
must be legible.
Electrical equipment
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the horn.
MCheck the windscreen washers and wipers,
examining the wiper blades; renew damaged
or perished blades. Also check the operation
of the stop-lights.
MCheck the operation of the sidelights and
number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors
must be secure, clean and undamaged.
MCheck the operation and alignment of the
headlights. The headlight reflectors must not
be tarnished and the lenses must be
undamaged.
MSwitch on the ignition and check the
operation of the direction indicators (including
the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard
warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and
stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it
does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the
rear light cluster.
MCheck the operation of the rear foglight(s),
including the warning light on the instrument
panel or in the switch.
Footbrake
MExamine the master cylinder, brake pipes
and servo unit for leaks, loose mountings,
corrosion or other damage.
MThe fluid reservoir must be secure and the
fluid level must be between the upper (A) and
lower (B) markings.MInspect both front brake flexible hoses for
cracks or deterioration of the rubber. Turn the
steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the
hoses do not contact the wheel, tyre, or any
part of the steering or suspension mechanism.
With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check
the hoses for bulges or leaks under pressure.
Steering and suspension
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
from side to side slightly, up to the point where
the steering gear just begins to transmit this
movement to the roadwheels. Check for
excessive free play between the steering
wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or
insecurity of the steering column joints, the
column-to-steering gear coupling, or the
steering gear itself.
MHave your assistant turn the steering wheel
more vigorously in each direction, so that the
roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done,
examine all the steering joints, linkages,
fittings and attachments. Renew any
component that shows signs of wear or
damage. On vehicles with power steering,
check the security and condition of the
steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.
MCheck that the vehicle is standing level,
and at approximately the correct ride height.
Shock absorbers
MDepress each corner of the vehicle in turn,
then release it. The vehicle should rise and
then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle
continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber
is defective. A shock absorber which has
seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.
2Checks carried out
WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE
GROUND
REF

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
Horn operates all the time
MHorn push either earthed or stuck down (Chapter 12).
MHorn cable-to-horn push earthed (Chapter 12).
Horn fails to operate
MBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
MCable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 12).
MFaulty horn (Chapter 12).
Horn emits intermittent or unsatisfactory sound
MCable connections loose (Chapter 12).
MHorn mountings loose (Chapter 12).
MFaulty horn (Chapter 12).
Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsat-
isfactory in operation
Wipers fail to operate, or operate very slowly
MWiper blades stuck to screen, or linkage seized or binding
(Chapters 1 and 12).
MBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
MCable or cable connections loose, broken or disconnected
(Chapter 12).
MFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
MFaulty wiper motor (Chapter 12).
Wiper blades sweep over too large or too small an area of
the glass
MWiper arms incorrectly positioned on spindles (Chapter 1).
MExcessive wear of wiper linkage (Chapter 12).
MWiper motor or linkage mountings loose or insecure (Chapter 12).
Wiper blades fail to clean the glass effectively
MWiper blade rubbers worn or perished (Chapter 1).
MWiper arm tension springs broken, or arm pivots seized
(Chapter 12).
MInsufficient windscreen washer additive to adequately remove
road film (Chapter 1).
Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or
unsatisfactory in operation
One or more washer jets inoperative
MBlocked washer jet (Chapter 1).
MDisconnected, kinked or restricted fluid hose (Chapter 12).
MInsufficient fluid in washer reservoir (Chapter 1).
Washer pump fails to operate
MBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
MBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
MFaulty washer switch (Chapter 12).
MFaulty washer pump (Chapter 12).
Washer pump runs for some time before fluid is emitted
from jets
MFaulty one-way valve in fluid supply hose (Chapter 12).
Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
Window glass will only move in one direction
MFaulty switch (Chapter 12).
Window glass slow to move
MRegulator seized or damaged, or in need of lubrication
(Chapter 11).
MDoor internal components or trim fouling regulator (Chapter 11).
MFaulty motor (Chapter 12).
Window glass fails to move
MBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
MFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
MBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
MFaulty motor (Chapter 12).
Central locking system inoperative, or unsatis-
factory in operation
Complete system failure
MBlown fuse (Chapter 12).
MFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
MBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
MFaulty control module (Chapter 12).
Latch locks but will not unlock, or unlocks but will not lock
MFaulty master switch (Chapter 12).
MBroken or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 11).
MFaulty relay (Chapter 12).
MFaulty control module (Chapter 12).
One solenoid/motor fails to operate
MBroken or disconnected wiring or connections (Chapter 12).
MFaulty solenoid/motor (Chapter 12).
MBroken, binding or disconnected latch operating rods or levers
(Chapter 11).
MFault in door latch (Chapter 11).
Fault Finding REF•19
REF
Electrical system (continued)

Glossary of Technical Terms REF•23
JJump startStarting the engine of a vehicle
with a discharged or weak battery by
attaching jump leads from the weak battery to
a charged or helper battery.
LLoad Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV)A
brake hydraulic system control valve that
works like a proportioning valve, but also
takes into consideration the amount of weight
carried by the rear axle.
LocknutA nut used to lock an adjustment
nut, or other threaded component, in place.
For example, a locknut is employed to keep
the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in
position.
LockwasherA form of washer designed to
prevent an attaching nut from working loose.
MMacPherson strutA type of front
suspension system devised by Earle
MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original
form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar
creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an
integral coil spring and shock absorber - is
mounted between the body and the steering
knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson
strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm
and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location.
MultimeterAn electrical test instrument with
the capability to measure voltage, current and
resistance.
NNOxOxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic
pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines
at higher temperatures.
OOhmThe unit of electrical resistance. One
volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will
produce a current of one amp.
OhmmeterAn instrument for measuring
electrical resistance.
O-ringA type of sealing ring made of a
special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring
is compressed into a groove to provide the
sealing action.Overhead cam (ohc) engineAn engine with
the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder
head(s).
Overhead valve (ohv) engineAn engine with
the valves located in the cylinder head, but
with the camshaft located in the engine block.
Oxygen sensorA device installed in the
engine exhaust manifold, which senses the
oxygen content in the exhaust and converts
this information into an electric current. Also
called a Lambda sensor.
PPhillips screwA type of screw head having a
cross instead of a slot for a corresponding
type of screwdriver.
PlastigageA thin strip of plastic thread,
available in different sizes, used for measuring
clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage
is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are
assembled and dismantled; the width of the
crushed strip indicates the clearance between
journal and bearing.
Propeller shaftThe long hollow tube with
universal joints at both ends that carries
power from the transmission to the differential
on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles.
Proportioning valveA hydraulic control
valve which limits the amount of pressure to
the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent
wheel lock-up.
RRack-and-pinion steeringA steering system
with a pinion gear on the end of the steering
shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared
wheel opened up and laid flat). When the
steering wheel is turned, the pinion turns,
moving the rack to the left or right. This
movement is transmitted through the track
rods to the steering arms at the wheels.
RadiatorA liquid-to-air heat transfer device
designed to reduce the temperature of the
coolant in an internal combustion engine
cooling system.
RefrigerantAny substance used as a heat
transfer agent in an air-conditioning system.
R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for
many years; recently, however, manufacturers
have begun using R-134a, a non-CFC
substance that is considered less harmful tothe ozone in the upper atmosphere.
Rocker armA lever arm that rocks on a shaft
or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve
engine, the rocker arm converts the upward
movement of the pushrod into a downward
movement to open a valve.
RotorIn a distributor, the rotating device
inside the cap that connects the centre
electrode and the outer terminals as it turns,
distributing the high voltage from the coil
secondary winding to the proper spark plug.
Also, that part of an alternator which rotates
inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly
of a turbocharger, including the compressor
wheel, shaft and turbine wheel.
RunoutThe amount of wobble (in-and-out
movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated.
The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The
out-of-round condition of a rotating part.
SSealantA liquid or paste used to prevent
leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in
conjunction with a gasket.
Sealed beam lampAn older headlight design
which integrates the reflector, lens and
filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece
unit. When a filament burns out or the lens
cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced.
Serpentine drivebeltA single, long, wide
accessory drivebelt that’s used on some
newer vehicles to drive all the accessories,
instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts.
Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by
an automatic tensioner.
ShimThin spacer, commonly used to adjust
the clearance or relative positions between
two parts. For example, shims inserted into or
under bucket tappets control valve
clearances. Clearance is adjusted by
changing the thickness of the shim.
Slide hammerA special puller that screws
into or hooks onto a component such as a
shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the
shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to
knock the component free.
SprocketA tooth or projection on the
periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a
chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to
the sprocket wheel itself.
Starter inhibitor switchOn vehicles with an
O-ring
Serpentine drivebelt
Plastigage
REF

Pierburg 2E3 carburettor- 4A•5
Piston rings- 2A•30
Piston/connecting rod- 2A•29
Plastic components- 11•3
Potentiometer- 4B•12, 4B•16
Power steering fluid - 0•14, 0•17, 1•2, 1•12
Power steering pump- 10•22
Power steering system bleeding- 10•22
Punctures- 0•8
RRadiator- 3•3
Radiator cooling fan- 3•5
Radiator grille- 11•12
Radio/cassette anti theft system- REF•5
Radio/cassette player- 12•18
Rear hub- 10•10, 10•15
Rear lamps- 12•11
Rear suspension assembly- 10•15
Relays- 12•3
Release bearing (clutch)- 6•6
Repair procedures- REF •4
Respraying- 11•2
Reversing lamp switch- 7A•6
Road test- 1•13
Roll bars- 10•8, 10•13, 10•17
Routine maintenance - 1•1 et seq
SSafety first!- 0•5
Scratches- 11•2
Seat belts- 11•21
Seats- 11•20, 11•22
Seats heated- 12•6
Selector cable (automatics)- 7B•4
Selector lever- 7B•4
Sender unit fuel level- 4A•4, 4B•8
Sender units (temperature gauge)- 3•6
Servicing - see Routine maintenance
Servo unit (braking system)- 9•15
Shock absorber- 10•11
Shoes (brake)- 9•6
Short-circuit finding- 12•2
Spark plugs- 1•3, 1•14, 1•16
Speakers- 12•17
Speedometer cable- 12•18
Speedometer drive- 7A•6
Starter inhibitor switch- 7B•3
Starter motor- 5•8
Starting problems- 0•6
Steering wheel alignment- 10•1, 10•24
Steering- 10•1 et seq
camber - 10•1 10•24
castor - 10•1, 10•24
column - 10•18
damper - 10•21
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•17gear - 10•21
power steering system bleeding - 10•22
power steering fluid - 0•17, 1•2
power steering pump - 10•22
shaft rubber coupling - 10•18
tie-rod end - 10•23
toe setting - 10•1, 10•24
wheel - 10•17
wheel bearing - 10•4, 10•9, 10•14
wheel with airbag - 12•20
Stub axle- 10•13
Subframe- 10•5
Sump- 2A•27, 2B•9
Sunroof- 11•13
Sunroof motor- 12•18
Sunroof switch- 12•5
Suspension- 10•1 et seq
anti-roll bars - 10•8, 10•13, 10•17
assembly (rear) - 10•15
coil spring (rear) - 10•12, 10•15
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•17
level control system - 10•14
lower arm (front) - 10•7
rear hub - 10•10, 10•15
shock absorber - 10•11
strut (front) - 10•6
stub axle - 10•13
sub frame - 10•5
trailing arms - 10•12, 10•16
wheel bearing - 10•4, 10•9, 10•14
Suspension/steering checks- 1•10
Switches:
brake lamp - 12•5
cooling fan - 3•6
courtesy lamp - 12•5
electric door mirror - 12•5
handbrake warning lamp - 12•5
hazard warning - 12•4
heater blower motor - 12•4
ignition - 12•3
indicator - 12•4
kickdown - 7B•3
lights - 12•4
luggage compartment - 12•5
oil pressure warning lamp - 12•5
push button - 12•4
reversing lamp - 7A•6
starter inhibitor - 7B•3
sunroof - 12•5
TTailgate- 11•5
Temperature gauge sender- 3•6
Temperature sensor (automatics)- 7B•5
Thermostat- 3•4
Throttle cable- 4A•5, 4B•9
Throttle pedal- 4A•5Tie-rod end- 10•23
Timing- 5•2, 5•13
Timing belt- 1•16, 2A•13, 2B•3, 2B•6
Toe setting- 10•1, 10•24
Tools and working facilities- REF•4, REF•6,
REF•7
Towing- 0•9
Trim panel (door)- 11•6
Tyre checks- 0•16, 0•17
Tyre pressures- 0•17
UUnderbody- 11•1
Underbody views- 1•7
Underbonnet views- 0•10, 1•5
Upholstery and carpets- 11•2
VVacuum servo unit (braking system)- 9•15
Valve lifters- 2A•24, 2B•9
Valves- 2A•5, 2B•2
Vehicle identification numbers- REF•3
Ventilation system- 3•1 et seq
Vents- 3•8
WWasher fluid- 0•13, 1•2
Washers- 12•13, 12•15
Water pump- 3•4
Weekly checks- 0•10et seq
Wheelalignment- 10•1, 10•24
Wheel arch liners- 11•12
Wheel bearing- 10•4, 10•9, 10•14
Wheel changing- 0•8
Wheel cylinder- 9•11
Window glass- 11•9
Window regulator- 11•10
Windscreen- 11•9, 11•12
Wiper blades- 0•15, 12•13
Wiper motors- 12•14
Wiring diagrams- 12•22 et seq
Index REF•27
REF