1988 OPEL CALIBRA manual transmission

level in the expansion tank, and top-up if
necessary. Note that the system must be cold
before an accurate level is indicated in the
expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is
removed while the engine is still warm, cover
the cap with a thick cloth and unscrew the
cap slowly, to gradually relieve the system
pressure. Take care to avoid scalding by
steam or coolant escaping from the
pressurised system.
9On DOHC models, refit the engine
undershield on completion.
5Coolant mixture -general
1It is important to use an antifreeze mixture
in the cooling system all year round, to
prevent corrosion of the alloy engine
components. The coolant mixture should be
made up from clean, preferably soft, tap
water, and a good quality antifreeze
containing corrosion inhibitor. Ensure that the
antifreeze is ethylene glycol based, as the
cheaper methanol based types evaporate
over a period of time.
2The proportions of water and antifreeze
used will depend on the degree of protection
required. A coolant mixture containing 25%
antifreeze should be regarded as the
minimum strength required to maintain good
anti-corrosion properties. Details of the
degree of protection provided against freezing
will be supplied with the antifreeze by the
manufacturers. For absolute protection, use a
50% antifreeze mixture.
3The coolant mixture should be renewed
every two years, as the corrosion inhibitors
will deteriorate with time.
4Before filling the system with fresh coolant,
drain and flush the system, as described in
Sections 2 and 3, and check that all hoses are
secure and that the clips are tight. Antifreeze
has a searching action, and will leak morerapidly than plain water.
5Refill the system as described in Section 4.
All future topping-up should be carried out
using a coolant mixture of the same
proportions as that used to initially fill the
system.
6Do not use antifreeze in the windscreen
wash system, as it will attack the vehicle
paintwork. Note that antifreeze is poisonous,
and must be handled with due care.
6Radiator (manual
transmission) -removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1The radiator can be removed complete with
the coolant fan and shroud if there is no need
to disturb the fan. If desired, the fan and its
shroud can be removed from the radiator,
with reference to Section 12.
2Drain the cooling system, as described in
Section 2.
3Disconnect the radiator top hose and the
expansion tank at the radiator.
4Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
disconnect the wiring from the cooling fan
switch, located at the bottom right-hand side
of the radiator.5Disconnect the cooling fan wiring
connector, noting its location for use when
refitting.
6Compress and remove the two radiator
securing clips, located at the top corners of
the radiator (see illustration).
7Pull the top of the radiator back towards the
engine to free it from the top mountings, then
lift the radiator to disengage the lower
securing lugs. Move the radiator clear of the
vehicle, taking care not to damage the cooling
fins (see illustrations).
Refitting
8The radiator can be inspected and cleaned
as described in Section 8.
9Refitting is a reversal of removal, bearing in
mind the following points.
10Ensure that the radiator rubber mountings
are in good condition and renew if necessary,
and ensure that the lower securing lugs
engage correctly as the radiator is refitted.
11Refill the cooling system, (Section 4).
7Radiator (automatic
transmission) -removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1On models with automatic transmission,
the radiator left-hand side tank incorporates a
heat exchanger to cool the transmission fluid.
It is connected to the transmission by a pair of
flexible hoses, with a metal pipe at each end.
2When removing the radiator, either clamp
the transmission fluid cooler flexible hoses, or
slacken their clamps, work them off their
unions and swiftly plug or cap each hose end
and union to minimise the loss of fluid and to
prevent the entry of dirt.
Refitting
3On refitting, reverse the removal procedure
and do not forget to check the transmission
fluid level, topping-up as necessary to replace
the lost fluid, as described in Chapter 7B.
Cooling, heating and ventilation systems 3•3
6.7B Withdrawing the radiator -
2.0 litre SOHC model6.7A Radiator freed from top right-hand mounting -
1.6 litre model
6.6 Compressing a radiator securing clip -
2.0 litre SOHC model
3

Spare parts are available from many
sources, for example: Vauxhall dealers, other
garages and accessory shops, and motor
factors. Our advice regarding spare part
sources is as follows.
Officially appointed Vauxhall
dealers
This is the best source of parts that are
peculiar to your car and are otherwise not
generally available (e.g. complete cylinder
heads, transmission components, badges,
interior trim, etc.). It is also the only place at
which you should buy parts if your vehicle is
still under warranty -use of non-Vauxhall
components may invalidate the warranty. To
be sure of obtaining the correct parts it willalways be necessary to give the storeman
your car’s vehicle identification number, and if
possible, to take the “old” parts along for
positive identification. Remember that many
parts are available on a factory exchange
scheme -any parts returned should always be
clean! It obviously makes good sense to go
straight to the specialists on your car for this
type of part for they are best equipped to
supply you.
Other garages and accessory
shops
These are often very good places to buy
materials and components needed for the
maintenance of your car (e.g. oil filters, spark
plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases,touch-up paint, filler paste, etc.). They also
sell general accessories, usually have
convenient opening hours, charge lower
prices and can often be found not far from
home.
Motor factors
Good factors will stock all the more
important components that wear out
relatively quickly (e.g. clutch components,
pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake
cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals/shoes and pads,
etc.). Motor factors will often provide new or
reconditioned components on a part
exchange basis -this can save considerable
amount of money.
Modifications are a continuing and
unpublished process in vehicle manufacture,
quite apart from major model changes. Spare
parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a
numerical basis, the individual vehicle
numbers being essential to correct identifi-
cation of the component required.
When ordering spare parts, always give as
much information as possible. Quote the car
model, year of manufacture and vehicle iden-
tification and/or engine numbers as
appropriate.The vehicle identification plate is riveted on
top of the front body panel and includes the
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), vehicle
weight information and paint and trim colour
codes.
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is
given on the vehicle identification plate and is
also stamped into the body floor panel
between the driver’s seat and the door sill
panel; lift the flap in the carpet to see it.
The engine number is stamped on a
horizontal flat located on the exhaust manifoldside of the cylinder block, at the distributor
end.
During 1995, Vauxhall introduced ‘Car
pass’. This is a card, which is issued to the
customer when the car is first bought. It
contains important information, e.g. VIN
number, key number and radio code. It also
includes a special code for diagnostic
equipment, therefore it must be kept in a
secure place and not in the vehicle.
Buying Spare Parts REF•3
The VIN number is also stamped on the
floor next to the drivers seatThe Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
plate (1) and engine number (2)
REF
Vehicle Identification

Engine
m mEngine fails to rotate when attempting to start
m mEngine rotates, but will not start
m mEngine difficult to start when cold
m mEngine difficult to start when hot
m mStarter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement
m mEngine starts, but stops immediately
m mEngine idles erratically
m mEngine misfires at idle speed
m mEngine misfires throughout the driving speed range
m mEngine hesitates on acceleration
m mEngine stalls
m mEngine lacks power
m mEngine backfires
m mOil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running
m mEngine runs-on after switching off
m mEngine noises
Cooling system
m
mOverheating
m mOvercooling
m mExternal coolant leakage
m mInternal coolant leakage
m mCorrosion
Fuel and exhaust systems
m
mExcessive fuel consumption
m mFuel leakage and/or fuel odour
m mExcessive noise or fumes from exhaust system
Clutch
m
mPedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance
m mClutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)
m mClutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle
speed)
m mJudder as clutch is engaged
m mNoise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal
Manual transmission
m
mNoisy in neutral with engine running
m mNoisy in one particular gear
m mDifficulty engaging gears
m mJumps out of gear
m mVibration
m mLubricant leaks
Automatic transmission
m
mFluid leakage
m mTransmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
m mGeneral gear selection problems
m mTransmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully
depressed
m mEngine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park
or Neutral
m mTransmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in
forward or reverse gears
Driveshafts
m mClicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)
m mVibration when accelerating or decelerating
Braking system
m
mVehicle pulls to one side under braking
m mNoise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied
m mExcessive brake pedal travel
m mBrake pedal feels spongy when depressed
m mExcessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle
m mJudder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking
m mBrakes binding
m mRear wheels locking under normal braking
Suspension and steering systems
m
mVehicle pulls to one side
m mWheel wobble and vibration
m mExcessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during
braking
m mWandering or general instability
m mExcessively stiff steering
m mExcessive play in steering
m mLack of power assistance
m mTyre wear excessive
Electrical system
m
mBattery will not hold a charge for more than a few days
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine
running
m mIgnition/no-charge warning light fails to come on
m mLights inoperative
m mInstrument readings inaccurate or erratic
m mHorn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mWindscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in
operation
m mElectric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
m mCentral locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation
The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to
the recommended service schedules should not have to use this section
of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that,
provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or
renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare.
Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but
develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are
usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even
thousands of miles. Those components that do occasionally fail without
warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.
With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begininvestigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a
little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a
dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in
curing a fault (or its symptoms). However, will be none the wiser if the
fault recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than
was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more
satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning
signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period
preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual
smells, etc. - and remember that failure of components such as fuses
or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.
REF•12Fault Finding
Introduction

Note:Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission, it is difficult
for the home mechanic to properly diagnose and service this unit. For
problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a
dealer service department or automatic transmission specialist. Do not
be too hasty in removing the transmission if a fault is suspected, as
most of the testing is carried out with the unit still fitted.
Fluid leakage
MAutomatic transmission fluid is usually dark in colour. Fluid leaks
should not be confused with engine oil, which can easily be blown
onto the transmission by airflow.
MTo determine the source of a leak, first remove all built-up dirt and
grime from the transmission housing and surrounding areas using
a degreasing agent, or by steam-cleaning. Drive the vehicle at low
speed, so airflow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise
and support the vehicle, and determine where the leak is coming
from. The following are common areas of leakage:
a)Fluid pan or “sump” (Chapter 1 and 7B).
b)Dipstick tube (Chapter 1 and 7B).
c)Transmission-to-fluid cooler pipes/unions (Chapter 7B).
Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell
MTransmission fluid level low, or fluid in need of renewal (Chapter 1).
General gear selection problems
MChapter 7B deals with checking and adjusting the selector cable
on automatic transmissions. The following are common problems
that may be caused by a poorly adjusted cable:a)Engine starting in gears other than Park or Neutral.
b)Indicator panel indicating a gear other than the one actually being
used.
c)Vehicle moves when in Park or Neutral.
d)Poor gear shift quality or erratic gear changes.
MRefer to Chapter 7B for the selector cable adjustment procedure.
Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with
accelerator pedal fully depressed
MLow transmission fluid level (Chapter 1).
MIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears
other than Park or Neutral
MIncorrect starter/inhibitor switch adjustment (Chapter 7B).
MIncorrect selector cable adjustment (Chapter 7B).
Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has
no drive in forward or reverse gears
MThere are many probable causes for the above problems, but the
home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -
fluid level. Before taking the vehicle to a dealer or transmission
specialist, check the fluid level and condition of the fluid as
described in Chapter 1. Correct the fluid level as necessary, or
change the fluid and filter if needed. If the problem persists,
professional help will be necessary.
Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed
on full-lock)
MLack of constant velocity joint lubricant, possibly due to damaged
gaiter (Chapter 8).
MWorn outer constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
Vibration when accelerating or decelerating
MWorn inner constant velocity joint (Chapter 8).
MBent or distorted driveshaft (Chapter 8).
REF•16Fault Finding
Automatic transmission
Driveshafts
Noisy in neutral with engine running
MInput shaft bearings worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
released, but not when depressed), (Chapter 7A).*
MClutch release bearing worn (noise apparent with clutch pedal
depressed, possibly less when released), (Chapter 6).
Noisy in one particular gear
MWorn, damaged or chipped gear teeth (Chapter 7A).*
Difficulty engaging gears
MClutch fault (Chapter 6).
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MIncorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
Jumps out of gear
MWorn or damaged gear linkage (Chapter 7A).
MIncorrectly adjusted gear linkage (Chapter 7A).MWorn synchroniser units (Chapter 7A).*
MWorn selector forks (Chapter 7A).*
Vibration
MLack of oil (Chapter 1).
MWorn bearings (Chapter 7A).*
Lubricant leaks
MLeaking differential output oil seal (Chapter 7A).
MLeaking housing joint (Chapter 7A).*
MLeaking input shaft oil seal (Chapter 7A).*
* Although the corrective action necessary to remedy the symptoms
described is beyond the scope of the home mechanic, the above
information should be helpful in isolating the cause of the condition.
This should enable the owner can communicate clearly with a
professional mechanic.
Manual transmission

REF•24Glossary of Technical Terms
automatic transmission, a switch that
prevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutral
or Park.
StrutSee MacPherson strut.
TTappetA cylindrical component which
transmits motion from the cam to the valve
stem, either directly or via a pushrod and
rocker arm. Also called a cam follower.
ThermostatA heat-controlled valve that
regulates the flow of coolant between the
cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining
optimum engine operating temperature. A
thermostat is also used in some air cleaners in
which the temperature is regulated.
Thrust bearingThe bearing in the clutch
assembly that is moved in to the release levers
by clutch pedal action to disengage the
clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing.
Timing beltA toothed belt which drives the
camshaft. Serious engine damage may result
if it breaks in service.
Timing chainA chain which drives the
camshaft.
Toe-inThe amount the front wheels are
closer together at the front than at the rear. On
rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of
toe-in is usually specified to keep the front
wheels running parallel on the road by
offsetting other forces that tend to spread the
wheels apart.
Toe-outThe amount the front wheels are
closer together at the rear than at the front. Onfront wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of
toe-out is usually specified.
ToolsFor full information on choosing and
using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive
Tools Manual.
TracerA stripe of a second colour applied to
a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from
another one with the same colour insulator.
Tune-upA process of accurate and careful
adjustments and parts replacement to obtain
the best possible engine performance.
TurbochargerA centrifugal device, driven by
exhaust gases, that pressurises the intake air.
Normally used to increase the power output
from a given engine displacement, but can
also be used primarily to reduce exhaust
emissions (as on VW’s “Umwelt” Diesel
engine).
UUniversal joint or U-jointA double-pivoted
connection for transmitting power from a
driving to a driven shaft through an angle. A U-
joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a
cross-shaped member called the spider.
VValveA device through which the flow of
liquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulk
may be started, stopped, or regulated by a
movable part that opens, shuts, or partiallyobstructs one or more ports or passageways.
A valve is also the movable part of such a
device.
Valve clearanceThe clearance between the
valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the
rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is
measured when the valve is closed.
Vernier caliperA precision measuring
instrument that measures inside and outside
dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a
micrometer, but more convenient.
ViscosityThe thickness of a liquid or its
resistance to flow.
VoltA unit for expressing electrical “pressure”
in a circuit. One volt that will produce a current
of one ampere through a resistance of one
ohm.
WWeldingVarious processes used to join metal
items by heating the areas to be joined to a
molten state and fusing them together. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Welding Manual.
Wiring diagramA drawing portraying the
components and wires in a vehicle’s electrical
system, using standardised symbols. For
more information refer to the Haynes
Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems
Manual.

oil and filter renewal - 0•17, 1•2, 1•9
oil cooler - 2B•10
oil level - 0•12
oil pump - 2A•28, 2B•9
piston rings - 2A•30
piston/connecting rod - 2A•29
removal - 2A•8, 2B•3
SOHC - 2A•1 et seq
sump - 2A•27, 2B•9
timing belt - 2A•13, 2B•3, 2B•6
undershield - 11•13
valve lifters - 2A•24, 2B•9
valves - 2A•5, 2B•2
Environmental considerations- REF•4
Exhaust manifold- 4C•5
Exhaust system check- 1•11, 4C•5
Expansion tank- 3•5
FFan (radiator)- 3•5
Fault diagnosis- REF•12 et seq
automatic transmission - REF•12, REF•16
braking system - REF•12, REF•17
clutch - REF•12, REF•15
cooling system - REF•12, REF•15
driveshafts - REF•12, REF•16
electrical system - REF•12, REF•18
engine - REF•12, REF•13
fuel and exhaust systems - REF•12, REF•15
manual transmission - REF•12, REF•16
steering - REF•12, REF•17
suspension - REF•12, REF•17
Flexplate (automatic transmission)- 2A•26
Flushing (cooling system)- 3•2
Flywheel- 2A•26
Foglamp- 12•11
Fuel and exhaust (carburettor) systems-
4A•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust (fuel injection) systems-
4B•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems - emissions-
4C•1 et seq
Fuel and exhaust systems:
accelerator cable - 4A•5
accelerator pedal - 4A•5
air box - 4B•5
air cleaner - 1•3, 1•13, 4A•3, 4B•4
air pump/cut off valve - 4C•2
air temperature control - 4B•5
airflow meters - 4B•12
automatic choke - 4A•9
carbon canister - 4C•4
carburettor - 4A•5, 4A•11
catalytic converter - 4C•3
control unit - 4B•16
depressurising fuel system - 4B•5
EGR components - 4C•2
exhaust manifold - 4C•5
exhaust system check - 1•11, 4C•5
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•15
filler cap - 11•13
fuel filters - 1•3, 1•14, 4B•6
fuel flow damper - 4B•8
fuel injector(s) - 4B•13
fuel level sender unit - 4A•4, 4B•8
fuel pressure regulator - 4B•10
fuel pump - 4A•3, 4B•6fuel tank - 4A•4, 4B•7
fuel vapour separator - 4A•4
idle speed/mixture adjustment - 4A•7,
4A•12, 4B•9, 4B•11
inlet manifold - 4A•12, 4B•17
knock sensor - 4B•17
lambda sensor - 4C•4
manifolds - 4A•12, 4B•17, 4C•5
mixture (CO) - 4A•7, 4A•12, 4B•9
oxygen sensor - 4C•4
Pierburg 2E3 - 4A•5
potentiometer - 4B•12, 4B•16
throttle cable - 4A•5
throttle pedal - 4A•5
Fuses- 12•1, 12•3
GGear selector linkage- 7A•2
Gearbox - see Manual or Automatic
transmission
Gearbox oil- 0•17, 1•2, 1•15
Gearchange lever- 7A•3
Glass- 11•9
Glossary of technical terms- REF•20
Glove compartment- 11•18
HHandbrake adjustment- 9•18
Handbrake cables- 9•19
Handbrake lever- 9•20
Handles (door)- 11•7
Hazard warning switch- 12•4
Headlamp alignment- 12•10
Headlamp unit- 12•9
Headlining- 11•19
Heater blower motor switch- 12•4
Heater control panel- 3•6
Heater matrix- 3•7
Heating systems- 3•1 et seq
Horn- 12•8
Hose and fluid leak check- 0•9, 1•9
Hoses brake- 9•18
IIdle speed/mixture/adjustment- 4A•7,
4A•12, 4B•9, 4B•11
Ignition coil- 5•9
Ignition switch- 12•3
Ignition system- 5•2
Igniton timing- 5•2, 5•13
Indicator lamps- 12•11
Indicator switch- 12•4
Injector(s)- 4B•13
Inlet manifold- 4A•12, 4B•17
Input shaft (clutch) oil seal- 7A•4
Instrument panel- 12•6
Interior lamps- 12•8
Interior trim panels- 11•14
Introduction to the Vauxhall Cavalier- 0•4
JJacking and vehicle support- REF•5
Jump starting- 0•7
KKickdown switch - 7B•3
Knock sensor- 4B•17
LLambda sensor- 4C•4
Lamps- 12•8, 12•9
Leaks- 0•9, 1•9
Light switch- 12•4
Locks bonnet- 11•4
Locks door- 11•8
Locks tailgate- 11•6
Lubricants and fluids- 0•17
MMain and big-end bearings- 2A•31
Maintenance - see Routine maintenance
Maintenance schedule- 1•4
Manifolds- 4A•12, 4B•17, 4C•5
Manual transmission- 7A•1 et seq
differential bearing oil seals - 7A•3
fault diagnosis - REF•12, REF•16
gear selector linkage - 7A•2
gearbox oil - 0•17, 1•2, 1•15
gearchange lever - 7A•3
input shaft (clutch) oil seal - 7A•4
overhaul -7A•5
removal and refitting - 7A•4
reversing lamp switch - 7A•6
speedometer drive - 7A•6
Master cylinder (brake)- 9•13
Mirrors- 11•11
Mixture (CO)- 4A•7, 4B•9
MOT test checks- REF•8
Mountings (engine/transmission)- 2A•12,
2B•3
NNumber plate lamp- 12•11
OOil change- 0•17, 1•2, 1•9
Oil cooler- 2B•10
Oil filter- 1•2, 1•9
Oil pressure warning lamp switch- 12•5
Oil pump- 2A•28, 2B•9
Oil seals:
differential bearing - 7A•3
general - REF •4
camshaft - 2A•18, 2B•6
crankshaft - 2A•26, 2B•6, 2B•9
Oils- 0•17, 1•2
Open-circuit, finding - 12•2
Oxygen sensor- 4C•4
PPads (brake)- 9•4
Paintwork damage- 11•2
Parts- REF•3
Pedals
brake - 9•21
clutch - 6•3
throttle - 4A•5
REF•26Index