1988 OPEL CALIBRA battery location

2Exhaust gas recirculation
(EGR) system - general
The system reintroduces small amounts of
exhaust gas into the combustion cycle to
reduce the generation of oxides of nitrogen
(NOx).
On C16 NZ, C16 NZ2 and C18 NZ engines,
the volume of exhaust gas reintroduced is
governed by manifold vacuum, through the
EGR valve mounted on the inlet manifold.
When the valve is opened small amounts of
exhaust gas are allowed to enter the inlet
tract, passing through ports in the cylinder
head.
On X16 SZ engines the EGR valve is
operated by an EGR module, mounted on the
left-hand side of the engine compartment
behind the battery. This module amplifies
signals received from the fuel system ECU
and operates the EGR valve electronically
providing precise control of exhaust gas
recirculation under all engine conditions.
3EGR valve (Multec system
models) - testing, removal and
refitting
2
Testing
1On C16 NZ, C16 NZ2 and C18 NZ engines,
it is recommended that the system is checked
annually, by checking the movement of the
valve’s diaphragm carrier plate as follows.
Note that the carrier plate is visible only
through the apertures in the underside of the
valve, so a battery-operated torch and small
mirror may be useful. On X16 SZ engines,
Vauxhall test equipment is necessary to check
the EGR system.
2With the engine fully warmed up to normal
operating temperature and idling, briefly open
and close the throttle. The carrier plate should
move upwards as the manifold vacuum
changes. When the engine is idling smoothly
again, press the carrier plate upwards (do this
very carefully, so that the plate is not distorted or
the diaphragm damaged). The idle speed should
drop significantly (approximately 100 rpm).
3If the valve does not respond as described,
it must be cleaned.
Removal
4Pull off the hose from the valve, then unbolt
the valve and remove it (see illustrations).
Clean away all carbon using a wire brush and
a pointed tool, but take care not to damage
the valve seat. Renew the valve gasket to
prevent induction leaks.
Refitting
5Refit the valve and reconnect the hose,
then recheck the system’s performance; if
there is no improvement, the valve must be
renewed.
4EGR valve (Simtec system) -
testing, removal and refitting
3
Note: A new gasket will be required when
refitting the valve.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove wiring harness and vacuum hose.
3Mark position of the valve, to ensure
correct relocation.
4Undo the 3 bolts, and remove the valve
from the dual spark ignition coil’s coolant
flange.
Refitting
5Clean the sealing surfaces of the valve and
flange.
6Refit the valve with a new gasket and line
up the marks made before removal (see
illustration).
5EGR module (X16 SZ
models) - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the knock module from its
bracket (refer to Chapter 4B, if necessary),
and place to one side.
2Remove wiring plug from module. Remove
module from bracket.
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6AIR pump assembly (Simtec
system) - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Chock the rear wheels, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it on axle stands
placed under the body side members (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
2Remove the left hand front wheel and inner
wheel arch lining.
3Loosen the hose clamp and remove the air
duct hose from the pump.
4Disconnect the battery negative lead.
5Undo the securing nuts and remove the
pump assembly from its location. Disconnect
the wiring plug.
6Remove the wiring plug from the pump’s
bracket.
7Mark the position of the pump on it’s
bracket before separating.
8Remove the fixing bolts and disconnect the
pump from it’s insulator.
9The insulator can also be checked by
removing the 3 nuts, securing the protective
shield. Before removing, mark the shield and
insulator. Replace if necessary.
10Check the pump’s air cleaner for damage.
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
correct alignment of the components.
7AIR cut-off valve - removal,
testing and refitting
3
Removal
1Before removal, mark on the cut-off valve,
the direction of flow towards the non-return
valve (see illustration).
2Disconnect and remove the air duct and
vacuum hoses.
3Undo the switchover valve’s bolts and
move to one side.
4C•2Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
3.4 Disconnecting the vacuum hose from
the exhaust gas recirculation valve
4.6 EGR valve
1 Valve 2 Gasket
3.4B Withdrawing the exhaust gas
recirculation valve

4The cut-off valve can now be removed from
the bracket.
Testing
5To test the cut-off valve a vacuum hand
pump with gauge will be required. If available,
connect to the cut-off valve and ensure that
air through-flow aperture is fully open.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
valve is fitted in the correct direction.
8AIR switchover valve -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect wiring plug from the valve.
3Mark the location of the vacuum hoses
before removing them from the valve.
4After disconnecting the hoses undo the two
bolts, and remove them from its bracket.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
hoses are fitted correctly (see illustration).
9AIR pipe and non-return
valve - removal and refitting
3
Note:New air pipe washers will be required
when refitting.
Removal
1Remove the non-return valve air duct hose.
2Undo the bolts engine lifting eye bracket,
and turn the bracket on to its left hand side.
3Remove the pipe support bracket by
releasing its three bolts.
4Remove the heat shield that is secured by
two bolts.
5The air pipe can now be removed by
releasing the two securing bolts.
6If necessary the non-return valve can now
be disconnected.
7Carefully clamp the pipe using a vice with
protective jaws. Unbolt the valve from the
pipe, clean and inspect for damage.
Refitting
8Before refitting, coat the threads of the non-
return valve with sealing compound (i.e.
Vauxhall part no. 90094714).
9Use new washers when refitting the pipe,
(take care as the washers have sharp edges).
Coat the pipe mounting bolts with assembly
paste (i.e. Vauxhall part no. 90513210), before
refitting.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Retighten to correct torque as shown in Spec-
ifications.
10Catalytic converter -
description, general and
precautions
Note: The catalytic converter is not a filter. It
creates a chemical reaction, but it is not
affected by that reaction.
Description
1Certain models are available with a catalytic
converter, to reduce exhaust emissions.
These models can be identified by a ‘C’ or ‘X’,
prefixing the engine code.
2The purpose of the catalytic converter is to
change potentially harmful hydrocarbon andcarbon monoxide exhaust gases into harmless
gases and water vapour. The converter
consists of a stainless steel canister containing
a catalyst-coated honeycomb ceramic. The
catalyst is a mixture of three precious metals,
platinum, palladium and rhodium.
3The exhaust gases pass freely through the
honeycomb, where the catalyst speeds up the
chemical change of the exhaust gases,
without being permanently altered itself.
4To avoid damage to the catalyst, the engine
must be kept properly tuned, and unleaded
petrol must always be used. Normal leaded
petrol will “poison” the catalyst, and must not
be used.
5To enable the Motronic engine management
system to achieve complete combustion of the
fuel mixture, and thus to minimise exhaust
emissions, an oxygen sensor is fitted in the
exhaust gas stream. The sensor monitors the
oxygen level in the exhaust gas, and sends a
signal to the Motronic module. The module
constantly alters the fuel/air mixture within a
narrow band to reduce emissions, and to allow
the catalytic converter to operate at maximum
efficiency. No adjustment of idle mixture is
therefore possible on models fitted with a
catalytic converter.
General
6Ninety-nine per cent of exhaust gases, from
a petrol engine (however efficient or well
tuned), consists of nitrogen (N
2), carbon
dioxide (CO
2), oxygen (O2), other inert gases
and water vapour (H
2O). The remaining 1% is
made up of the noxious materials that are
currently seen (except CO
2), as the major
polluters of the environment. Carbon
monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC),
oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and some solid
matter, including a small lead content.
7The device most commonly used to clean
up vehicle exhausts is the catalytic converter.
It is fitted into the vehicle’s exhaust system
and uses precious metals (platinum and
palladium or rhodium) as catalysts to speed
up the reaction between the pollutants and
the oxygen in the exhaust gases. CO and HC
being oxidised to form H
2O and CO2and (in
the three-way type of catalytic converter) NOx
being reduced to N
2.
8The converter consists of an element of
ceramic honeycomb, coated with a
combination of precious metals in such a way
as to produce a vast surface area over which
the exhaust gases must flow. The three-way
closed-loop type converter fitted to these
models can remove over 90% of pollutants.
9The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device that needs no maintenance.
However there are some facts that an owner
should be aware if the converter is to function
properly for its full service life (see
illustration).
a)DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle
equipped with a catalytic converter. The
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions 4C•3
10.9 The catalytic converter is protected
by heat shields
8.5 AIR switchover valve
1 Connection to brake servo vacuum hose
2 Connection to cut-off valve
7.1 AIR cut-off valve
1 Connection to AIR pump
2 Connection to AIR switchover valve
3 Connection to AIR non-return valve
4C

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body

5If the ‘ABS’ symbol, in the instrument panel
stays lit after approximately 4 seconds, or if it
comes on sporadically or stays on whilst
driving, there is a fault in the system. Should
this occur, it is recommended that a complete
test is carried out by a Vauxhall dealer, who
will have the necessary specialist diagnostic
equipment. Due to the special equipment
required, it is not practical for the DIY
mechanic to carry out the test procedure.
6To prevent possible damage to the
electronic control unit, always disconnect the
control unit wiring plug before carrying out
electrical welding work.
7It is recommended that the control unit is
removed if the vehicle is being subjected to
high temperatures, like for instance, during
certain paint-drying processes.
8If using steam cleaning equipment, do not
aim the water/steam jet directly at the control
unit.
9Do not disconnect the control unit wiring
plug with the ignition switched on.
10Do not use a battery booster to start the
engine.
11After working on the ABS components,
ensure that all wiring plugs are correctly
reconnected, and have the complete system
tested by a Vauxhall dealer, at the earliest
opportunity.
12All models up to 1991 that were fitted with
ABS, used the ABS-2E system. From 1992
onwards an ABS-2EH system was fitted,
which can be identified by the location of the
electronic control module, which is bolted to
the hydraulic modulator.
13The main differences between the two
systems are in the electrical components and
circuits, the most obvious of these being
omission of the surge arrester relay on the
2EH system.
3Hydraulic system - bleeding
2
General
1If any of the hydraulic components in the
braking system have been removed or
disconnected, or if the fluid level in the
reservoir has been allowed to fall appreciably,
it is certain that air will have entered into the
system. The removal of all this air from the
hydraulic system is essential if the brakes are
to function correctly, and the process of
removing it is known as bleeding.
2Where an operation has only affected one
circuit of the hydraulic system (the system issplit diagonally on non-ABS models, and front
and rear on ABS models), then it will only be
necessary to bleed the relevant circuit. If the
master cylinder has been disconnected and
reconnected, or the fluid level has been
allowed to fall appreciably, then the complete
system must be bled.
3One of three methods can be used to bleed
the system, although Vauxhall recommend
the use of a pressure bleeding kit.
Bleeding - two-man method
4Obtain a clean jar, and a length of rubber or
plastic bleed tubing that will fit the bleed
screws tightly. The help of an assistant will be
required.
5Remove the dust cap and clean around the
bleed screw on the relevant caliper of wheel
cylinder (see illustration), then attach the
bleed tube to the screw. If the complete
system is being bled, start at the front of the
vehicle. When bleeding the complete system
on models with ABS, the front brakes must be
bled before the rears.
6Check that the fluid reservoir is topped up,
and then destroy the vacuum in the brake
servo by giving several applications of the
brake pedal.
7Immerse the open end of the bleed tube in
the jar, which should contain two or three
inches of hydraulic fluid. The jar should be
positioned about 300 mm (12.0 in) above the
bleed screw to prevent any possibility of air
entering the system down the threads of the
bleed screw when it is slackened.
8Open the bleed screw half a turn, and have
the assistant depress the brake pedal slowly
to the floor. With the brake pedal still
depressed, retighten the bleed screw, and
then have the assistant quickly release the
pedal. Repeat the procedure.
9Observe the submerged end of the tube in
the jar. When air bubbles cease to appear,
tighten the bleed screw when the pedal is
being held fully down by the assistant.
10Top-up the fluid reservoir. It must be kept
topped up throughout the bleeding
operations. If the connecting holes to the
master cylinder are exposed at any time due
to low fluid level, the air will be drawn into the
system, and the whole bleeding process will
have to start again.
11If the complete system is being bled, the
procedure should be repeated on the
diagonally opposite rear brake. Then on the
front and rear brakes of the other circuit on
non-ABS models, or on the remaining front
brake and then on the rear brakes on ABS
models.
12On completion, remove the bleed tube,
and discard the fluid that has been bled from
the system, unless it is required to make up
the level in the bleed jar. Never re-use old fluid.
13On completion of bleeding, top-up the
fluid level in the reservoir. Check the action ofthe brake pedal, which should be firm, and
free from any “sponginess” that would
indicate that air is still present in the system.
Bleeding - with one-way valve
14There are a number of one-man brake
bleeding kits currently available from motor
accessory shops. It is recommended that one
of these kits should be used whenever
possible, as they greatly simplify the bleeding
operations. They also reduce the risk of
expelled air or fluid being drawn back into the
system.
15Proceed as described in paragraphs 5
and 6.
16Open the bleed screw half a turn, then
depress the brake pedal to the floor, and
slowly release it. The one-way valve in the
bleeder device will prevent expelled air from
returning to the system at the completion of
each stroke. Repeat the operation until clear
hydraulic fluid, free from air bubbles, can be
seen coming through the tube. Tighten the
bleed screw.
17Proceed as described in paragraphs 11
to 13 inclusive.
Bleeding - with pressure
bleeding kit
18These are also available from motor
accessory shops, and are usually operated by
air pressure from the spare tyre.
19By connecting a pressurised container to
the master cylinder fluid reservoir, bleeding is
then carried out by simply opening each bleed
screw in turn and allowing the fluid to run out.
Like turning on a tap, until no air bubbles are
visible in the fluid being expelled.
20Using this method, the large reserve of
fluid provides a safeguard against air being
drawn into the master cylinder during the
bleeding operations.
21This method of bleeding is recommended
by Vauxhall.
22Begin bleeding with reference to
paragraphs 5 and 6, and continue as
described in paragraphs 11 to 13 inclusive.
Braking system 9•3
3.5 Removing the dust cap from a rear
caliper bleed screw - models with
ventilated discs
9
If brake fluid is spilt on the
paintwork, the affected area
must be washed down with
cold water immediately.
Brake fluid is an effective paint
stripper!

the earliest opportunity, take the vehicle to a
Vauxhall dealer, and have the complete
system tested, using the dedicated ABS test
equipment.
Rear wheel sensor
Removal
10Disconnect the battery negative lead.
11Where applicable, remove the wheel trim,
then loosen the relevant rear roadwheel bolts
and chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear
of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
Remove the roadwheel.
12Unclip the sensor wiring connector from
the retaining clip on the rear underbody, then
separate the two halves of the wiring
connector, prising them apart with a
screwdriver if necessary (see illustration).
13Note the routing of the sensor wiring, and,
where applicable, release it from the clips on
the underbody.
14Using a Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the bolt securing the wheel sensor to the
trailing arm (or the mounting bracket on
DOHC models), then carefully lever the sensor
from its location using a screwdriver (see
illustration). Recover the seal ring.
Refitting
15Proceed as described in paragraphs 5 to 9
inclusive.
22ABS electronic control
module - removal and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
ABS-2E systems
Removal
1Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then
disconnect the battery negative lead.
2The control module is located under a
cover in the passenger sill, to the left-hand
side of the seat.
3Extract the three securing screws, and lift
the cover from the control module. Note that
two of the screws are covered by plastic trim
plugs. 4Lift the control module from its recess, then
release the retaining clip and disconnect the
module wiring plug. Withdraw the module
(see illustrations).
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after the module has been removed. At the
earliest opportunity, take the vehicle to a
Vauxhall dealer, and have the complete
system tested, using the dedicated ABS test
equipment.
ABS-2EH systems
Removal
7Ensure that the ignition is switched off, then
disconnect the battery negative lead.
8Remove the cover from the hydraulic
modulator.
9Disconnect both the wiring harness and
solenoid valve connectors.
10Relays can only be removed from control
units that have slanted covers (see
illustration). The relays for the solenoid valve
and pump motor, if removable, can now be
removed. If the unit has a flat cover, and is
faulty, the whole unit will have to be replaced.
11Undo fixing bolts and remove the control
unit.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refer
also to paragraph 6.
23ABS relays (ABS-2E systems
only) - removal and refitting
2
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding.
For ABS-2EH system relays, refer to
paragraphs 7 to 12, in Section 22.
Solenoid valve and pump motor
relays
Removal
1The solenoid valve and pump motor relays
are mounted on the hydraulic modulator.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the securing screw and withdraw
the plastic cover from the hydraulic
modulator.
4Pull out the appropriate relay. The small
relay is for the solenoid valve, and the large
relay is for the pump motor.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
6Check that the ABS warning lamp
extinguishes when first starting the engine
after a relay has been removed. At the earliest
opportunity, take the vehicle to a Vauxhall
dealer, and have the complete system tested,
using the dedicated ABS test equipment.
Surge arrester relay
Removal
7The surge arrester relay is located in the
relay box at the left rear of the engine
compartment.
Braking system 9•17
22.4A Lift out the ABS control module . . .22.10 ABS-2EH control unit
1 Slanted cover type 2 Flat cover type22.4B . . . and release the wiring plug
retaining clip - ABS-2E system
21.14 ABS rear wheel sensor (arrowed) -
DOHC model21.12 ABS rear wheel sensor wiring
connectors (arrowed) on rear underbody -
DOHC model`
9

19On DOHC models, use a new self-locking
nut to secure the equaliser yoke to the
handbrake lever operating rod, and screw the
nut onto the rod to the position noted before
removal.
20On SOHC models, tighten the cable
adjuster to expose the length of thread noted
before removal.
21Before lowering the vehicle to the ground,
adjust the handbrake, (Section 26).
29Brake pedal - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the lower trim panel from the
driver’s footwell.3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake
lamp switch, then twist the switch anti-
clockwise and remove it from its bracket.
4Pull the spring clip from the right-hand end
of the servo fork-to-pedal pivot pin (see
illustration).
5Using a pair of pliers, pull back the end of
the pedal return spring from the pedal, to
enable the servo fork-to-pedal pivot pin to be
removed. Withdraw the pivot pin (see
illustration).
6Pull the locking clip from the left-hand end
of the pedal pivot pin.
7Unscrew the nut from the left-hand end of
the pivot pin, then slide the pivot pin from the
right-hand end of the pedal mounting bracket.
If necessary, tap the end of the pivot pin with
a soft-faced hammer to free the splines from
the mounting bracket. Recover any washers
that may be positioned on the pivot pin,
noting their locations.8Withdraw the pedal and return spring.
Refitting
9Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
10Ensure that the pedal return spring is
correctly located on the pedal before refitting.
11Coat the pedal pivot pin with a little
molybdenum disulphide grease.
12Ensure that any washers on the pedal
pivot pin are positioned as noted before
removal.
Braking system 9•21
29.5 Brake pedal assembly removed from vehicle
1 Locking clip 2 Pedal return spring 3 Pedal pivot pin29.4 Brake servo fork-to-pedal pivot pin spring clip (arrowed)
9

d)Disconnect the fuel pump hose and wiring
as described in Section 12.
e)When releasing the tank mounting straps,
note that the fuel filter must either be
moved aside or removed completely,
whichever is most convenient
f)One of the fuel hoses connects to a pipe
in the side of the tank.
DOHC models
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clean metal container that can be sealed.
4Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
placed under the body side members (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Open the fuel filler flap, then pull back the
rubber seal to expose the fuel filler pipe
securing screw (see illustration). Remove the
screw.
6Release the fuel tank vent hoses from the
clips on the underbody.
7Support the weight of the fuel tank on a
jack, with an interposed block of wood.
8Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank
mounting straps. Then remove the straps and
lower the tank sufficiently to enable the fuel
hoses, vent hoses and fuel tank sender unit
wiring to be disconnected (see illustration).
9Disconnect the vent hoses and the fuel tank
sender unit wiring. Note the positions of the
vent hoses as an aid to refitting.
10Disconnect the fuel hoses from the tank and
the fuel tank sender unit, making a note of the
hose positions for use when refitting. Be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to
prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.
11Lower the fuel tank, and withdraw it from
under the vehicle.
12If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses
with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using
several changes of fuel, but before doing so,
remove the fuel tank sender unit, as described
in Section 17. This procedure should be
carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it is
vital to take adequate fire precautions - refer
to the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning
of this manual for further details.
Refitting
13Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all hoses are reconnected to their correct
locations as noted during removal.
15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is
evident, stop the engine immediately, and
rectify the problem without delay.
17Fuel tank sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
SOHC models
1Remove the fuel tank, (refer to Section 16),
if necessary. Note that there is only one hose
connected to the sender unit. This must also
be disconnected from the union on the inside
of the unit before it can be withdrawn
completely from the tank (see illustration).
DOHC models
2Remove the fuel tank, as described in
Section 16.
3Make alignment marks on the sender unit
and the fuel tank so that the sender unit can
be refitted in its original position.
4To remove the sender unit, an improvised
tool must be used which engages with thecut-outs in the sender unit retaining ring. The
Vauxhall special tool KM-673 for this purpose
is shown (see illustration).
5Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid
bending the float arm.
6Recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Renew the sealing ring.
9Ensure that the marks made on sender unit
and fuel tank before removal are aligned.
10Refit the fuel tank, (Section 16).
18Fuel flow damper - removal
and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel flow damper is located on the fuel
pump bracket under the rear of the vehicle, on
the right-hand side of the spare wheel well or
in front of the fuel tank, depending on model
(see illustration). The damper is positioned in
the fuel feed line between the fuel pump and
the fuel filter, and its purpose is to reduce
pressure fluctuations in the fuel return line,
thus reducing noise levels.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the damper is
removed.
4B•8Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
16.5 Fuel filler pipe securing screw
(arrowed) - models with semi-trailing arm
rear axles17.1 Fuel level sender unit - models with
semi-independent rear axles
18.1 Fuel flow damper - models with semi-
trailing arm rear axles17.4 Vauxhall special tool KM-673 for
removing fuel level sender units
16.8 Fuel tank mounting - models with
semi-trailing arm rear axles
1 Strap securing bolt 2 Vent hose securing

regulator vacuum pipe should be routed over
the top of the camshaft cover breather hoses.
21On models with the Multec system note
also the following:
a)Fit the new diaphragm so that it locates in
the throttle body groove.
b)Ensure that the spring and spring seat are
correctly engaged with each other and
with the diaphragm and regulator cover.
Then press the cover over its locating
dowels and hold it in place while the
screws are tightened.
c)Tighten the screws carefully to the
specified torque wrench setting.
22On completion, check the regulator for
leaks, pressurising the system by switching
the ignition on and off several times, before
the engine is started.
22Idle speed adjuster - removal
and refitting
3
Note:Idle speed adjustment on models fitted
with Multec systems, is not possible, as it is
controlled by the ECU. Refer to Section 1.
Removal
SOHC models (except Multec system)
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the idle
speed adjuster (see illustration).
3The adjuster can be removed complete with
its connecting hoses, or separately, leaving
the hoses in place.4Loosen the relevant clamp screws, then
disconnect the hoses, and withdraw the idle
speed adjuster (see illustration).
DOHC models
5Disconnect the battery negative lead.
6Loosen the clamp screw, and disconnect
the hose from underneath the air box on the
throttle body. Remove the clamp from the
hose.
7Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
placed under the body side members.
8Remove the engine undershield, as
described in Chapter 11.
9Working underneath the vehicle,
disconnect the wiring plug from the idle speed
adjuster, which is located underneath the inlet
manifold above the starter motor (see
illustration).
10Loosen the clamp screw and disconnect
the remaining idle speed adjuster hose from
the inlet manifold, then withdraw the adjuster
downwards complete with the hoses.
11If the hoses are to be removed from the
adjuster, mark their locations before removal
so that they can be correctly reconnected.
Once the adjuster has been refitted, it is
impossible to swap the hose positions.
Refitting
12Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
DOHC models ensure that the idle speed
adjuster rests horizontally, with the wiring
routed over the top of the coolant hose. If thewiring is routed under the coolant hose, this
may cause the idle speed adjuster to be bent
downwards, resulting in a restriction or
fracture in the air hose to the inlet manifold.
23Throttle position sensor -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
SOHC models
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle
position sensor (see illustration).
3Remove the two securing screws and
withdraw the sensor from the throttle body
(see illustration).
DOHC models
4Disconnect the battery negative lead.
5Disconnect the wiring plug from the air
mass meter. Recover the sealing ring.
6Loosen the clamp screw securing the air
trunking to the right-hand end of the air mass
meter.
7Using an Allen key or hexagon bit, unscrew
the four bolts securing the air box to the
throttle body. Lift the air box from the throttle
body, and disconnect the hose from the base
of the air box, then withdraw the air box/air
mass meter assembly.
8Disconnect the wiring plug from the throttle
position sensor wiring plug (see illustration).
Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models 4B•11
22.9 Idle speed adjuster (arrowed) viewed
from underneath vehicle -
DOHC model
23.8 Disconnecting the throttle position
sensor wiring plug - DOHC model23.3 Removing a throttle position sensor
securing screw - SOHC early model23.2 Disconnecting the throttle position
sensor wiring plug - early SOHC models
22.4 Withdrawing the idle speed adjuster
complete with hoses - SOHC model
(except with Multec systems)22.2 Disconnecting the idle speed adjuster
wiring plug - SOHC models (except with
Multec systems)
4B