1988 OPEL CALIBRA fuel filter location

2A separate idle system operates
independently from the main jet system,
supplying fuel by way of the mixture control
screw.
3The main jets are calibrated to suit engine
requirements at mid-range throttle openings.
To provide the necessary fuel enrichment at
full throttle, a vacuum-operated power valve is
used. The valve provides extra fuel under the
low vacuum conditions associated with wide
throttle openings.
4To provide an enriched mixture during
acceleration, an accelerator pump delivers
extra fuel to the primary main venturi. The
accelerator pump is operated mechanically by
a cam on the throttle linkage.
5A fully automatic choke is fitted, operated
by a coolant and electrically heated bi-metal
coil. When the engine is cold, the bi-metal coil
is fully wound up, holding the choke plate
(fitted to the primary barrel) closed. As the
engine warms up, the bi-metal coil is heated
and therefore unwinds, progressively opening
the choke plate. A vacuum operated pull-
down system is employed, whereby, if the
engine is under choke but is only cruising (i.e.
not under heavy load) the choke plate is
opened against the action of the bi-metal coil.
The pull-down system prevents an over-rich
mixture, which reduces fuel economy and
may cause unnecessary engine wear when
the engine is cold. A secondary pull-down
solenoid is fitted, which operates in
conjunction with the main diaphragm unit to
modify the pull-down characteristics,
improving fuel economy.
61.8 litre models are fitted with an idle cut-off
solenoid. This is an electrically operated valve,
which interrupts the idle mixture circuit when
the ignition is switched off, this preventing
engine “run-on”.13Carburettor - removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding.
New gasket(s) must be used when refitting the
carburettor. A tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser will be required to check the idle
speed and mixture on completion
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the air cleaner, on early models.
On later models, disconnect the air trunking
from the air cleaner, then disconnect the
vacuum pipe and breather hose from the air
box. Extract the three securing screws and lift
off the air box, complete with air trunking.
3On 1.4 litre models, disconnect the fuel
supply hose from the carburettor, and on 1.6
and 1.8 litre models, disconnect the fuel
supply and return hoses from the vapour
separator. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
take adequate fire precautions. Plug the ends
of the hoses, to prevent dirt ingress and
further fuel spillage.
4Extract the clip from the throttle cable end
fitting at the bracket on the carburettor, then
slide the cable end grommet from the bracket,
and slide the cable end from the throttle valve
lever.
5Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
automatic choke housing noting their
locations, as an aid to refitting. Be prepared
for coolant spillage, and plug the hoses, or
secure them with their ends facing upwards,
to prevent further coolant loss.
6Disconnect the vacuum pipes from the front
of the carburettor, noting their locations and
routing for use when refitting (see
illustration).
7Disconnect the choke heater wire and any
additional wiring.8Unscrew the three securing nuts, and
withdraw the carburettor from the inlet
manifold studs.
9Recover the gasket(s) and insulator block
that fit between the carburettor and the inlet
manifold.
Overhaul
10With the carburettor removed from the
vehicle, drain the fuel from the float chamber
and vapour separator (where applicable).
Clean the outside of the carburettor, then
remove the top cover (Section 15).
11Blow through the jets and drillings with
compressed air, or air from a foot pump - do
not probe them with wire. If it is wished to
remove the jets, unscrew them carefully with
well-fitting tools.
12Remove the fuel filter gauze from the inlet
union, refer to Section 21, for details. Vauxhall
recommend that it is renewed whenever the
carburettor is cleaned.
4A•6Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
12.1B Side view of carburettor, showing automatic choke
housing (1), vapour separator (2) and secondary throttle valve
vacuum diaphragm (3)12.1C Side view of carburettor, showing secondary choke pull-
down solenoid (1) and power valve (2)
13.6 Disconnecting the air box vacuum
pipe from the carburettor - 1.6 litre model
Aerosol cans of carburettor
cleaner are widely available
and can prove useful in
helping to clean internal
passages of stubborn obstructions.

13Clean any foreign matter from the float
chamber. Renew the float, the float needle
valve and seat if wear is evident, or if the float
is punctured or otherwise damaged. Check
that the needle valve closes completely before
the float reaches the top of its movement. See
Section 15, for details of float level checking.
14Renew the diaphragms in the part-load
enrichment valve and in the accelerator pump.
If additional pump or valve parts are supplied
in the overhaul kit, renew these parts also.
15Further dismantling is not recommended.
Pay particular attention to the throttle opening
mechanism arrangement if it is decided to
dismantle it; the interlocking arrangement is
important.
16Reassemble in the reverse order to
dismantling. Use new gaskets and seals
throughout; lubricate linkages with a smear of
molybdenum based grease.
Refitting
17Carry out the following procedure before
refitting.
a)Position the fast idle adjustment screw on
the highest step of the fast idle cam.
b)Use a gauge rod or twist drill of the
specified diameter to measure the
opening of the primary throttle valve.
c)Adjust if necessary at the fast idle
adjustment screw.
d)Note that this is a preliminary adjustment;
final adjustment of the fast idle speed
should take place with the engine running.
18Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
renew the gasket(s).
19After refitting, carry out the following
checks and adjustments.
20Check the throttle cable free play and
adjust if necessary, as described in Section 11.
21Check and if necessary top-up the
coolant level, as described in Chapter 3.
22Check and if necessary adjust the idle
speed and mixture, as described in Section 14.
14Idle speed and mixture -
adjustment
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding.
To carry out the adjustments, an accurate
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser (CO
meter) will be required
1To check the idle speed and mixture
adjustment, the following conditions must be
met:
a)The engine must be at normal operating
temperature
b)All electrical consumers (cooling fan,
heater blower, headlamps, etc.) must be
switched off
c)The ignition timing and spark plug gaps
must be correctly adjusted - see Chapters
1 and 5
d)The throttle cable free play must be
correctly adjusted - see Section 11
e)The air inlet trunking must be free from
leaks, and the air filter must be cleanf)On automatic models, always select
position, “P”.
2Connect a tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser to the vehicle, according to the
equipment manufacturer’s instructions.
3Start the engine, and run it at 2000 rpm for
approximately 30 seconds, then allow it to
idle. If the idle speed is outside the specified
limits, adjust by means of the throttle stop
screw (see illustration).
4When the idle speed is correct, check the
CO level in the exhaust gas. If it is outside the
specified limits, adjust by means of the idle
mixture adjustment screw. In production, the
screw is covered by a tamperproof plug;
ensure that no local or national laws are being
broken before removing the plug (see
illustration).
5On automatic models, when position “D” is
selected (all electrical systems switched off),
the idle speed should not drop perceptibly. If
it does, the vehicle should be taken to a
Vauxhall dealer for the idle-up system to be
checked using special Vauxhall test
equipment.
6With the idle mixture correct, readjust the
idle speed if necessary.
7If the cooling fan cuts in during the
adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments,
and continue when the cooling fan stops.
8When both idle speed and mixture are
correctly set, stop the engine and disconnect
the test equipment.
9Fit a new tamperproof plug to the idle
mixture adjustment screw, where this is
required by law.
15Needle valve and float -
removal, inspection and
refitting
4
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A
new carburettor top cover gasket must be
used on reassembly. A tachometer and an
exhaust gas analyser will be required to check
the idle speed and mixture on completion
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the round air cleaner, on
applicable models. On other models,
disconnect the air trunking from the air
cleaner, then disconnect the vacuum pipe and
breather hose from the air box. Extract the
three securing screws and lift off the air box,
complete with air trunking.
3Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the
carburettor.
4Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the
carburettor. Be prepared for fuel spillage, and
take adequate fire precautions. Plug the end
of the hose, to prevent dirt ingress and further
fuel spillage.
5Identify the automatic choke coolant hose
locations as an aid to refitting, then
disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for
coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or
secure them with their ends facing upwards,
to prevent further coolant loss.
6Disconnect the choke heater wiring plug.
7Disconnect the lower vacuum hoses from
the choke pull-down unit.
8Remove the four carburettor top cover
securing screws, noting their locations, as two
lengths of screw are used (see illustration).
9Lift off the top cover and recover the
gasket.
Inspection
10Hold the cover vertically, so that the float
is hanging from its pivot. Then tilt the cover
until the float needle valve is just closed - the
needle spring must not be compressed by the
weight of the float.
11Measure the distance, dimension x (see
illustration),from the bottom of the float to
the gasket surface on the top cover’s
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•7
15.8 Carburettor top cover securing
screws (arrowed)14.4 Tamperproof plug (arrowed) covering
idle mixture adjustment screw
14.3 Carburettor idle speed adjustment
(throttle stop) screw (arrowed)
4A

4The cut-off valve can now be removed from
the bracket.
Testing
5To test the cut-off valve a vacuum hand
pump with gauge will be required. If available,
connect to the cut-off valve and ensure that
air through-flow aperture is fully open.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
valve is fitted in the correct direction.
8AIR switchover valve -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect wiring plug from the valve.
3Mark the location of the vacuum hoses
before removing them from the valve.
4After disconnecting the hoses undo the two
bolts, and remove them from its bracket.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure
hoses are fitted correctly (see illustration).
9AIR pipe and non-return
valve - removal and refitting
3
Note:New air pipe washers will be required
when refitting.
Removal
1Remove the non-return valve air duct hose.
2Undo the bolts engine lifting eye bracket,
and turn the bracket on to its left hand side.
3Remove the pipe support bracket by
releasing its three bolts.
4Remove the heat shield that is secured by
two bolts.
5The air pipe can now be removed by
releasing the two securing bolts.
6If necessary the non-return valve can now
be disconnected.
7Carefully clamp the pipe using a vice with
protective jaws. Unbolt the valve from the
pipe, clean and inspect for damage.
Refitting
8Before refitting, coat the threads of the non-
return valve with sealing compound (i.e.
Vauxhall part no. 90094714).
9Use new washers when refitting the pipe,
(take care as the washers have sharp edges).
Coat the pipe mounting bolts with assembly
paste (i.e. Vauxhall part no. 90513210), before
refitting.
10Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Retighten to correct torque as shown in Spec-
ifications.
10Catalytic converter -
description, general and
precautions
Note: The catalytic converter is not a filter. It
creates a chemical reaction, but it is not
affected by that reaction.
Description
1Certain models are available with a catalytic
converter, to reduce exhaust emissions.
These models can be identified by a ‘C’ or ‘X’,
prefixing the engine code.
2The purpose of the catalytic converter is to
change potentially harmful hydrocarbon andcarbon monoxide exhaust gases into harmless
gases and water vapour. The converter
consists of a stainless steel canister containing
a catalyst-coated honeycomb ceramic. The
catalyst is a mixture of three precious metals,
platinum, palladium and rhodium.
3The exhaust gases pass freely through the
honeycomb, where the catalyst speeds up the
chemical change of the exhaust gases,
without being permanently altered itself.
4To avoid damage to the catalyst, the engine
must be kept properly tuned, and unleaded
petrol must always be used. Normal leaded
petrol will “poison” the catalyst, and must not
be used.
5To enable the Motronic engine management
system to achieve complete combustion of the
fuel mixture, and thus to minimise exhaust
emissions, an oxygen sensor is fitted in the
exhaust gas stream. The sensor monitors the
oxygen level in the exhaust gas, and sends a
signal to the Motronic module. The module
constantly alters the fuel/air mixture within a
narrow band to reduce emissions, and to allow
the catalytic converter to operate at maximum
efficiency. No adjustment of idle mixture is
therefore possible on models fitted with a
catalytic converter.
General
6Ninety-nine per cent of exhaust gases, from
a petrol engine (however efficient or well
tuned), consists of nitrogen (N
2), carbon
dioxide (CO
2), oxygen (O2), other inert gases
and water vapour (H
2O). The remaining 1% is
made up of the noxious materials that are
currently seen (except CO
2), as the major
polluters of the environment. Carbon
monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC),
oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and some solid
matter, including a small lead content.
7The device most commonly used to clean
up vehicle exhausts is the catalytic converter.
It is fitted into the vehicle’s exhaust system
and uses precious metals (platinum and
palladium or rhodium) as catalysts to speed
up the reaction between the pollutants and
the oxygen in the exhaust gases. CO and HC
being oxidised to form H
2O and CO2and (in
the three-way type of catalytic converter) NOx
being reduced to N
2.
8The converter consists of an element of
ceramic honeycomb, coated with a
combination of precious metals in such a way
as to produce a vast surface area over which
the exhaust gases must flow. The three-way
closed-loop type converter fitted to these
models can remove over 90% of pollutants.
9The catalytic converter is a reliable and
simple device that needs no maintenance.
However there are some facts that an owner
should be aware if the converter is to function
properly for its full service life (see
illustration).
a)DO NOT use leaded petrol in a vehicle
equipped with a catalytic converter. The
lead will coat the precious metals,
reducing their converting efficiency and
will eventually destroy the converter.
Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions 4C•3
10.9 The catalytic converter is protected
by heat shields
8.5 AIR switchover valve
1 Connection to brake servo vacuum hose
2 Connection to cut-off valve
7.1 AIR cut-off valve
1 Connection to AIR pump
2 Connection to AIR switchover valve
3 Connection to AIR non-return valve
4C

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body

d)Disconnect the fuel pump hose and wiring
as described in Section 12.
e)When releasing the tank mounting straps,
note that the fuel filter must either be
moved aside or removed completely,
whichever is most convenient
f)One of the fuel hoses connects to a pipe
in the side of the tank.
DOHC models
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Siphon out any remaining fuel in the tank
through the filler pipe. Siphon the fuel into a
clean metal container that can be sealed.
4Chock the front wheels, then jack up the
rear of the vehicle, and support on axle stands
placed under the body side members (see
“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
5Open the fuel filler flap, then pull back the
rubber seal to expose the fuel filler pipe
securing screw (see illustration). Remove the
screw.
6Release the fuel tank vent hoses from the
clips on the underbody.
7Support the weight of the fuel tank on a
jack, with an interposed block of wood.
8Unscrew the securing bolts from the tank
mounting straps. Then remove the straps and
lower the tank sufficiently to enable the fuel
hoses, vent hoses and fuel tank sender unit
wiring to be disconnected (see illustration).
9Disconnect the vent hoses and the fuel tank
sender unit wiring. Note the positions of the
vent hoses as an aid to refitting.
10Disconnect the fuel hoses from the tank and
the fuel tank sender unit, making a note of the
hose positions for use when refitting. Be
prepared for fuel spillage, and take adequate fire
precautions. Plug the open ends of the hoses, to
prevent dirt ingress and further fuel loss.
11Lower the fuel tank, and withdraw it from
under the vehicle.
12If the tank contains sediment or water, it
may be cleaned out using two or three rinses
with clean fuel. Shake vigorously using
several changes of fuel, but before doing so,
remove the fuel tank sender unit, as described
in Section 17. This procedure should be
carried out in a well-ventilated area, and it is
vital to take adequate fire precautions - refer
to the “Safety first!” Section at the beginning
of this manual for further details.
Refitting
13Any repairs to the fuel tank should be
carried out by a professional.
14Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that all hoses are reconnected to their correct
locations as noted during removal.
15On completion, fill the fuel tank, then run
the engine and check for leaks. If leakage is
evident, stop the engine immediately, and
rectify the problem without delay.
17Fuel tank sender unit -
removal and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
SOHC models
1Remove the fuel tank, (refer to Section 16),
if necessary. Note that there is only one hose
connected to the sender unit. This must also
be disconnected from the union on the inside
of the unit before it can be withdrawn
completely from the tank (see illustration).
DOHC models
2Remove the fuel tank, as described in
Section 16.
3Make alignment marks on the sender unit
and the fuel tank so that the sender unit can
be refitted in its original position.
4To remove the sender unit, an improvised
tool must be used which engages with thecut-outs in the sender unit retaining ring. The
Vauxhall special tool KM-673 for this purpose
is shown (see illustration).
5Withdraw the unit carefully, to avoid
bending the float arm.
6Recover the sealing ring.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
8Renew the sealing ring.
9Ensure that the marks made on sender unit
and fuel tank before removal are aligned.
10Refit the fuel tank, (Section 16).
18Fuel flow damper - removal
and refitting
3
Note:Refer to Section 2 before proceeding
Removal
1The fuel flow damper is located on the fuel
pump bracket under the rear of the vehicle, on
the right-hand side of the spare wheel well or
in front of the fuel tank, depending on model
(see illustration). The damper is positioned in
the fuel feed line between the fuel pump and
the fuel filter, and its purpose is to reduce
pressure fluctuations in the fuel return line,
thus reducing noise levels.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Have a container to hand, to catch the fuel
that will be released as the damper is
removed.
4B•8Fuel and exhaust systems - fuel injection models
16.5 Fuel filler pipe securing screw
(arrowed) - models with semi-trailing arm
rear axles17.1 Fuel level sender unit - models with
semi-independent rear axles
18.1 Fuel flow damper - models with semi-
trailing arm rear axles17.4 Vauxhall special tool KM-673 for
removing fuel level sender units
16.8 Fuel tank mounting - models with
semi-trailing arm rear axles
1 Strap securing bolt 2 Vent hose securing

Maintenance - component location 1•5
1
Underbonnet view of a 1989 1.6 L model (16 SV engine)
1 VIN plate
2 Air cleaner casing *
3 Suspension strut top
4 Coolant expansion tank
5 Brake fluid reservoir
6 Fuel pump
7 Steering rack
8 Octane rating plug
9 Washer fluid reservoir
10 Battery
11 Ignition coil
12 Distributor (Bosch type)
13 Cooling fan motor
14 Engine oil level dipstick
15 Oil filter
16 Oil filler cap
* Refer to Chapter 4A for
alternative type
Underbonnet view of a 1991 model Cavalier 1.6 L (C16 NZ engine)
1 Air cleaner casing
2 Suspension strut top
3 Coolant expansion tank
4 Brake fluid reservoir
5 Air box
6 Exhaust gas recirculation valve
7 Steering gear
8 Octane coding plug
9 Washer fluid reservoir
10 Battery
11 Ignition coil
12 Distributor
13 Cooling fan motor
14 Engine oil level dipstick
15 Engine oil filter
16 Oxygen sensor
17 Engine oil filler cap

Maintenance - component location 1•7
1
Front underbody view of a 1989 1.6 L model (16 SV engine)
1 Brake caliper
2 Subframe
3 Oil filter
4 Clutch cover plate
5 Suspension lower arm
6 Differential cover plate
7 Engine oil drain plug
8 Driveshaft gaiter
9 Exhaust pipe
10 Anti-roll bar securing nut
Rear underbody view of a 1989 2.0 SRi model (semi-independent rear suspension)
1 Torsion beam
2 Trailing arm
3 Anti-roll bar
4 Shock absorber
5 Coil spring
6 Exhaust expansion box
7 Fuel flow damper
8 Fuel filter
9 Fuel tank securing strap
10 Handbrake cable

test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable
information regarding the overall performance
of the main internal components. Such a test
can be used as a basis to decide on the
extent of the work to be carried out. If, for
example, a compression test indicates serious
internal engine wear, conventional
maintenance as described in this Chapter will
not greatly improve the performance of the
engine. It may also prove a waste of time and
money, unless extensive overhaul work is
carried out first.
The following series of operations are those
most often required to improve the
performance of a generally poor-running
engine:Primary operations
a)Clean, inspect and test the battery (See
“Weekly Checks”)
b)Check all the engine related fluids (See
“Weekly Checks”)
c)Check the condition and tension of the
auxiliary drivebelt (Sections 18 and 22, as
appropriate).
d)Renew the spark plugs (Sections 30 and
37, as appropriate).
e)Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and
HT leads, as applicable (Section 31).
f)Check the condition of the air filter, and
renew if necessary (Section 27).
g)Check the fuel filter (Section 29).
h)Check the condition of all hoses, and
check for fluid leaks (Section 4).i)Check the idle speed and mixture
settings, as applicable (Section 9).
5If the above operations do not prove fully
effective, carry out the following secondary
operations:
Secondary operations
All items listed under “Primary operations”,
plus the following:
a)Check the charging system (Chapter 5).
b)Check the ignition system (Chapter 5).
c)Check the fuel system (Chapters 4A and
4B).
d)Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm
(Section 31).
e)Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 31).
3Engine oil and filter - renewal
2
1Ideally, the oil should be drained with the
engine hot, just after the vehicle has been
driven.
2On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield to expose the sump drain plug
and the oil filter.
3Place a container beneath the oil drain plug
at the rear of the sump.
4Remove the oil filler cap from the camshaft
cover, then using a socket or spanner,
unscrew the oil drain plug, and allow the oil to
drain (see illustration). Take care to avoid
scalding if the oil is hot.
5Allow ten to fifteen minutes for the oil to
drain completely, then move the container
and position it under the oil filter.6On 1.8 and 2.0 litre models, improved
access to the oil filter can be gained by
jacking up the front of the vehicle and
removing the right-hand roadwheel (see
illustration). Ensure that the handbrake is
applied, and that the vehicle is securely
supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and
Vehicle Support”). Note that further oil may
drain from the sump as the vehicle is raised.
7Using a strap wrench or a filter removal tool
if necessary, slacken the filter and unscrew it
from the mounting. Alternatively, if the filter is
very tight, a screwdriver can be driven
through the filter casing and used as a lever.
Discard the filter.
8Wipe the mating face on the filter mounting
with a lint-free rag, then smear the sealing ring
of the new filter with clean engine oil of the
specified grade.
9Screw the new filter into position and
tighten it by hand only, do not use any tools.
10Where applicable, refit the roadwheel and
lower the vehicle to the ground. Fully tighten
the roadwheel bolts with the vehicle resting on
its wheels.
11Examine the condition of the oil drain plug
sealing ring and renew if necessary, then refit
the drain plug and tighten it to the specified
torque. 12Refill the engine through the filler on the
camshaft cover, using the specified grade and
quantity of oil. Fill until the level reaches the
“MAX” mark on the dipstick, allowing time for
the oil to drain through the engine to the
sump.
13Refit the oil filler cap, then start the engine
and check for leaks. Note that the oil pressure
warning lamp may stay illuminated for a few
seconds when the engine is started as the oil
filter fills with oil.
14Stop the engine and recheck the oil level,
topping-up if necessary.
15On DOHC models, refit the engine
undershield.
16Dispose of the old engine oil safely; do not
pour it down a drain.
4Hose and fluid leak check
1
1Visually inspect the engine joint faces,
gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil
leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas
around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil
filter and sump joint faces. Remember that,
over a period of time, some very slight
seepage from these areas is to be expected -
what you are really looking for is any
indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be
found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal
by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this
manual.
Every 9000 miles or 12 months 1•9
3.6 Oil filter viewed through right-hand
wheel arch - SOHC model3.4 Sump drain plug location -
2.0 litre DOHC model
(engine undershield removed)
1
Basic service, every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 12 months
As the drain plug releases
from the threads, move it
away quickly so the stream
of oil, running out of the
sump, goes into the container not up
your sleeve (see illustration).
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump oil
down the drain.
To find the
location of your
local oil recycling
bank, call this
number free.