1988 OPEL CALIBRA radiator

11
Torque wrench settingNm lbf ft
Front seat rails to floor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 15
Seat belt fixings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 26
1 General description
The bodyshell and floorpan are of pressed
steel, and form an integral part of the vehicle’s
structure, without the need for a separate
chassis.
Various areas are strengthened, to provide
for suspension, steering and engine mounting
points, and load distribution.
Extensive corrosion protection is applied to
all new vehicles. Various anti-corrosion
preparations are used, including galvanising
and PVC under-sealing. Protective wax is
injected into the box sections and other
hollow cavities.
Extensive use is made of plastic for
peripheral components, such as the radiator
grille, bumpers and wheel trims, and for much
of the interior trim.Interior fittings are to a high standard on all
models, and a wide range of optional
equipment is available throughout the range.
Except for the rear quarter windows, all
fixed glass is bonded in position, using a
special adhesive. Any work in this area should
be entrusted to a Vauxhall dealer or glass
replacement specialist.
2 Bodywork and underframe -
maintenance
1
The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
important also to keep watch on those partsof the vehicle not immediately visible, for
instance the underside, inside all the wheel
arches and the lower part of the engine
compartment.
The basic maintenance routine for the
bodywork is washing preferably with a lot of
water, from a hose. This will remove all the
loose solids that may have stuck to the
vehicle. It is important to flush these off in
such a way as to prevent grit from scratching
the finish. The wheel arches and underframe
need washing in the same way to remove any
accumulated mud that will retain moisture and
tend to encourage rust. Oddly enough, the
best time to clean the underframe and wheel
arches is in wet weather when the mud is
thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet weather
the underframe is usually cleaned of large
accumulations automatically and this is a
good time for inspection.
Periodically, except on vehicles with a
Chapter 11
Bodywork and fittings
Bodywork and underframe - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Bonnet lock release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Boot lid lock (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Boot lid lock cylinder (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . . . . . .11
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door check arm - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Door interior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Door mirror - removal, overhaul and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Door window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Door window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Engine undershield (DOHC models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .32
Facia panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Fuel filler flap - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33General description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Interior trim panels - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Interior trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Radiator grille panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Rear quarter windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Seat belt tensioners - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Seats (without tensioners) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Seats, front (with seat belt tensioners) - removal and refitting . . . . . .43
Sunroof - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Tailgate (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Tailgate lock (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .13
Tailgate lock cylinder (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . .14
Tailgate strut (Hatchback models) - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15
Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Wheel arch liners - general . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Windscreen and rear window - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Windscreen cowl panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
11•1
Specifications Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

27Door mirror - removal,
overhaul and refitting
3
Glass renewal
1If desired, the mirror glass can be removed
for renewal without removing the mirror. On
models with electric mirrors, disconnect the
battery negative lead.
2Carefully prise the glass from its balljoints
using a screwdriver, and where applicable,
disconnect the heater wires from the glass.
Take care, as the glass is easily broken if
forced (see illustration).
3To refit, simply push the glass onto the
balljoints, ensuring that the heater wires are
connected (where applicable).
Mirror -removal and refitting
4On models with electric mirrors, disconnect
the battery negative lead.
5On models with manually adjustable
mirrors, pull off the interior adjuster lever.
6Prise the mirror trim panel from the inside
front edge of the door (see illustration).
7Extract the three now-exposed securing
screws, and withdraw the mirror assembly
from the door. On models with electric
mirrors, disconnect the wiring plug (see
illustrations).
8Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the rubber weather seal is correctly
located on the mirror housing (see
illustration).
Electric motor removal and
refitting
Removal
9Remove the mirror glass, as described
previously in this Section.
10Extract the three motor securing screws,
and disconnect the wiring plug, then withdraw
the motor (see illustration).
Refitting
11Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the wiring is routed behind the
motor, to avoid interfering with the adjustment
mechanism.
28Bumpers - removal and
refitting
3
Front bumper
Removal
1Remove both headlamps, as described in
Chapter 12.
2The bumper is removed as a complete
assembly with the front trim panel, therefore
on models with front foglamps, disconnect
the foglamp wiring plugs. On DOHC and
1993-on models remove the radiator grille
panel, as described in Section 29. Also
remove the water deflector if fitted.
3The bumper is secured by a single bolt at
each end, and by clips. It is possible to
unscrew the right-hand securing bolt with the
air cleaner assembly in place. Using an
open-ended spanner, but if desired the air
cleaner assembly can be removed for
improved access, as described in Chapters
4A or 4B, as applicable.
4Remove the left and right-hand bumper
securing bolts from the body side panels
behind the headlamp apertures (see
illustration).
5Release the bumper retaining clips from the
body by pushing each end of the bumper
towards the front of the vehicle, then pulling
the end of the bumper out from the wing (see
illustration).
Bodywork and fittings 11•11
27.7A . . . for access to the mirror securing
screws
28.4 Unscrewing the right-hand front
bumper securing bolt (air cleaner removed)27.10 Mirror motor securing screws
(arrowed)
27.8 Locating the weather seal on the
mirror housing27.7B Withdraw the mirror and disconnect
the wiring plug
27.6 Removing the mirror trim panel . . .27.2 Removing the mirror glass - electric
mirror (mirror removed)
11

6Carefully withdraw the bumper from the
vehicle.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Rear bumper
Removal
8Remove the rear trim panel from the
luggage compartment by prising up the top
edge to release the clips, then lift the panel
upwards to free it from the lower locating
tags. The bumper retaining nuts are now
exposed (see illustrations).
9Note that the bumper is removed as a
complete assembly with its lower trim panel.
10Disconnect the battery negative lead, then
prise the number plate lamp from the bumper,
and disconnect the wiring.
11Unscrew the bumper retaining nuts, and
recover the washers. On DOHC models, the
bumper securing nuts are accessible from
underneath the vehicle.
12Where fitted, remove the special locking
rivets, one each side, securing the bumper to
the wheel arch.
13Additional clips may be present on the
underside of the bumper which must also be
removed.
14Release the bumper retaining clips at the
front edges of the bumper by tapping the
centre pin through the expanding clip, using a
pin punch or similar. The pin will drop out as it
is pushed through - recover it for refitting.
15Push each end of the bumper towards the
rear of the vehicle, then pull the end of the
bumper from the rear wing.16Carefully withdraw the bumper from the
vehicle, taking care not to strain the number
plate lamp wiring.
Refitting
17Refitting is a reversal of removal. The
expanding clips at the front edges of the
bumper are secured by pushing the pin into
the clip until flush.
29Radiator grille panel -
removal and refitting
2
All SOHC models
Removal
1With the bonnet fully open and supported,
pull the upper edge of the grille panel
forwards and free the retaining clips using a
screwdriver. Then lift the panel to release the
lower locating lugs from their grommets in the
lower body front panel (see illustration).
Refitting
2Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the lower locating lugs seat correctly in
their grommets, and take care not to push the
grommets from their holes in the body front
panel.
DOHC and 1993-on models
Removal
3Extract the three screws securing the grille
panel to the body front panel, then lift the
grille panel to release the lower locating lugs
from their grommets in the lower body front
panel.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, with
reference to paragraph 2.
30Windscreen cowl panel -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Remove the wiper arms, referring to
Chapter 12, if necessary.2Disconnect the washer fluid hose from the
reservoir, and feed it through the cowl panel,
noting its routing as a guide to refitting. Be
prepared for fluid spillage.
3Where applicable, disconnect the battery
negative lead, then disconnect the
underbonnet lamp wiring plug and feed it
through the cowl panel, noting its routing as a
guide to refitting.
4Working from one end of the cowl panel,
carefully prise the panel from the body. Care
must be taken, as the panel is easily
damaged.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the panel is correctly seated along its
length, and that the washer fluid hose, and
where applicable the underbonnet lamp
wiring, is correctly routed.
31Wheel arch liners - general
2
1The plastic wheel arch liners are secured by
a combination of self-tapping screws and
plastic clips. Removal and refitting is self
explanatory, remembering the following
points (see illustration).
2Some of the securing clips may be held in
place using a central pin, which must be
tapped out to release the clip.
3The clips are easily broken during removal,
and it is advisable to obtain a few spare clips
for possible use when refitting.
11•12Bodywork and fittings
28.8B . . . to expose the bumper securing
nuts
31.1 Removing a wheel arch liner29.1 Freeing a radiator grille panel
retaining clip using a screwdriver
28.8A Remove the trim panel . . .28.5 Front bumper retaining clips released
from body

b)Always keep the ignition and fuel systems
well maintained according to the
manufacturers schedule (see “Routine
maintenance” and the relevant Chapter).
In particular, ensure that the air cleaner
filter element, the fuel filter and the spark
plugs are renewed at the correct intervals.
If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to
become too rich due to neglect, the
unburned surplus will enter and burn in
the catalytic converter, overheating the
element and eventually destroying the
converter.
c)If the engine develops a misfire, do not
drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little
as possible) until the fault is cured. The
misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter
the converter, which will result in its
overheating, as noted above.
d)The engine control indicator (the outline
of an engine with a lightning symbol
superimposed), will light when the ignition
is switched on and the engine is started,
then it will go out. While it may light briefly
while the engine is running, it should go
out again immediately and stays unlit. If it
lights and stays on while the engine is
running, seek the advice of a Vauxhall
dealer as soon as possible. A fault has
occurred in the fuel injection/ignition
system that, apart from increasing fuel
consumption and impairing the engine’s
performance, may damage the catalytic
converter.
e)DO NOT push or tow-start the vehicle.
This will soak the catalytic converter in
unburned fuel causing it to overheat when
the engine does start see (b) above.
f)DO NOT switch off the ignition at high
engine speeds. If the ignition is switched
off at anything above idle speed,
unburned fuel will enter the (very hot)
catalytic converter, with the possible risk
of its igniting on the element and
damaging the converter.
g)DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives.
These may contain substances harmful to
the catalytic converter.
h)DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the
engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a
visible trail of blue smoke. The unburned
carbon deposits will clog the converter
passages and reduce its efficiency; in
severe cases the element will overheat.
i)Remember that the catalytic converter
operates at very high temperatures hence
the heat shields on the vehicle’s under-
body and the casing will become hot
enough to ignite combustible materials
that brush against it. DO NOT, therefore,
park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over
long grass or over piles of dead leaves.
j)Remember that the catalytic converter is
FRAGlLE. Do not strike it with tools during
servicing work. Take great care when
working on the exhaust system. Ensure
that the converter is well clear of any
jacks or other lifting gear used to raise thevehicle. Do not drive the vehicle over
rough ground, road humps, etc., in such a
way as to ground the exhaust system.
k)In some cases, particularly when the
vehicle is new and/or is used for
stop/start driving, a sulphurous smell (like
that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from
the exhaust. This is common to many
catalytic converter-equipped vehicles and
seems to be due to the small amount of
sulphur found in some petrol’s reacting
with hydrogen in the exhaust to produce
hydrogen sulphide (CS) gas. While this
gas is toxic, it is not produced in sufficient
amounts to be a problem. Once the
vehicle has covered a few thousand miles
the problem should disappear. In the
meanwhile a change of driving style or of
the brand of petrol may effect a solution.
l)The catalytic converter, used on a
well-maintained and well-driven vehicle,
should last for between 50 000 and 100
000 miles. From this point on, careful
checks should be made at all specified
service intervals of the CO level to ensure
that the converter is still operating
efficiently. If the converter is no longer
effective it must be renewed.
11Carbon canister - removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Remove the front right hand wheel and
wheel arch liner.
3Note the hose and pipe connections to the
canister, or label them, to ensure that they are
reconnected to their original unions, then
disconnect them (see illustration). Unscrew
the two nuts securing the canister mounting
bracket to the vehicle body.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal, however
ensure correct fitment of hose and pipes.
12Oxygen sensor (catalytic
converter models) - removal
and refitting
3
Note: This sensor is also known as a Lambda
sensor.
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring plug,
which is located behind the coolant expansion
tank.
3Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands placed under the body side members.
4On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
5On models fitted with Multec injection
system, the sensor is screwed into the
exhaust manifold. Trace the wiring from the
sensor itself to the connector (either clipped
to the radiator cooling fan shroud or behind
the coolant expansion tank). Release it from
any clips or ties; disconnect the wiring before
unscrewing the sensor.
6On other models, unscrew the oxygen
sensor from the front section of the exhaust
system (see illustration). It is advisable to
wear gloves, as the exhaust system will be
extremely hot.
7Withdraw the oxygen sensor and its wiring,
taking care not to burn the wiring on the
exhaust system. If the sensor is to be re-used,
take care that the sealing ring is not lost, and
that the sensor is not dropped.
Refitting
8If a new sensor is being fitted, it will be
supplied with the threads coated in a special
grease to prevent it seizing in the exhaust
system.
9If the original sensor is being refitted,
ensure that the screw thread is clean. Coat
the thread with a lithium based copper grease
(i.e. Vauxhall Part No. 90295397).
10Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check
the exhaust system for leakage when the
engine is re-started.
4C•4Fuel and exhaust systems - exhaust and emissions
12.6 Oxygen sensor location in front
section of exhaust system - DOHC models
11.3 Charcoal canister
A Vent to atmosphere
B Vapour feed hose from filler pipe
C Vapour exhaust hose to inlet tract
D Control valve vacuum pipe from
throttle body

1
Chapter 1
Routine maintenance and servicing
Air cleaner element - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Air inlet temperature control check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Alternator V-belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Automatic transmission check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Bodywork check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Brake shoe check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Clutch cable check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Distributor and HT lead check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Door lock key battery - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Driveshaft gaiter check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Engine oil and filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Fuel filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Handbrake linkage check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Headlamp alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Hose and fluid leak check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Idle speed and mixture - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Ignition timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Lock and hinge check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Manual transmission fluid check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Power steering fluid check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Power steering pump drivebelt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Radiator inspection and cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rear suspension level control system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Spark plug renewal (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Spark plug renewal (DOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Throttle linkage maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Wiring check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
1•1
Contents
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321

1•4Maintenance schedule
Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly
MRefer to “Weekly checks”
Basic service, every 9000 miles
(15 000 km) or 12 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the items in “Weekly checks”, carry out the
following:
MRenew the engine oil and oil filter (Section 3).
MCheck all hoses and other components for fluid
leaks (Section 4).
MCheck the steering and suspension components
(Section 5).
MCheck the condition of the driveshaft rubber
gaiters (Section 6).
MCheck the automatic transmission fluid level (if
applicable), (Section 7).
MCheck the radiator for blockage (e.g. dead insects)
and clean as necessary (Section 8).
MCheck and adjust the idle speed and mixture (if
applicable), (Section 9).
MCheck the throttle linkage and lubricate if
necessary (Section 10).
MCheck the exhaust system for corrosion, leaks and
security (Section 11).
MCheck all wiring for condition and security
(Section 12).
MCheck and adjust the ignition timing (if applicable),
(Section 13).
MRenew the brake fluid (Section 14).
MCheck the brake pad friction material for wear
(Section 15).
MCheck the handbrake linkage (Section 16).
MCheck the power steering fluid level (if applicable),
(Section 17).
MCheck the power steering pump drivebelt (if
applicable), (Section 18).
MCheck the rear suspension level control system
height, if fitted (Section 19).
MCheck the bodywork (Section 20).
MLubricate all locks and hinges (Section 21).
MCheck the alternator V-belt (Section 22).
MCheck the headlamp alignment (Section 23).
MReplace battery in the door-lock key (if applicable),
(Section 24).
MCarry out a road test (Section 25).
Note: Vauxhall specify that an Exhaust Emissions Test should be
carried out at least annually. However, this requires special
equipment, and is performed as part of the MOT test (refer to the
end of the manual).
Full service, every 18 000 miles
(30 000 km) or 24 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the ‘basic service’, carry out the following:
MRenew the coolant (Section 26).
MRenew the air cleaner element (Section 27).
MCheck the operation of the air cleaner air inlet
temperature control (carburettor models only),
(Section 28).
MRenew the fuel filter (Section 29).
MRenew the spark plugs (SOHC only), (Section 30) *.
MInspect and clean the distributor cap and HT leads
(Section 31).
MCheck the clutch cable adjustment (Section 32).
MCheck the manual transmission oil level (Section 33).
MCheck the automatic transmission (Section 34).
MCheck the brake drum shoe for wear (Section 35).
Major service, every 36 000 miles
(60 000 km) or 48 months -
whichever comes sooner
Along with the ‘full service’, carry out the following:
MRenew timing belt (Section 36).
MRenew the spark plugs (DOHC models only),
(Section 37).
MRenew automatic transmission fluid (Section 38) *.
* Note: If a vehicle is used for heavy-duty work (e.g. taxi work,
caravan/trailer towing, mostly short-distance, stop-start city driving)
the fluid must be changed every 36 months or 27 000 miles (45 000
km), whichever occurs first.

2Also check the security and condition of all
the engine related pipes and hoses. Ensure
that all cable-ties or securing clips are in
place, and in good condition. Clips that are
broken or missing can lead to chafing of the
hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause
more serious problems in the future.
3Carefully check the radiator hoses and
heater hoses along their entire length. Renew
any hose that is cracked, swollen or
deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the
hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the
hose clips that secure the hoses to the
cooling system components. Hose clips can
pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling
system leaks. It is always beneficial to renew
hose clips whenever possible.
4Inspect all the cooling system components
(hoses, joint faces, etc.) for leaks.
5Where any problems are found on system
components, renew the component or gasket
with reference to Chapter 3.
6Where applicable, inspect the automatic
transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or
deterioration.
7With the vehicle raised, inspect the petrol
tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and
other damage. The connection between the
filler neck and tank is especially critical.
Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting
hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or
deteriorated rubber.
8Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal
fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank.
Check for loose connections, deteriorated
hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay
particular attention to the vent pipes and
hoses, which often loop up around the filler
neck and can become blocked or crimped.
Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle,
carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew
damaged sections as necessary.
9From within the engine compartment,
check the security of all fuel hose attachments
and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses
and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and
deterioration.
10Where applicable, check the condition of
the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.5Steering and suspension
check
2
Front suspension and steering
check
1Raise the front of the car, and support on
axle stands (“Jacking and Vehicle Support”).
2Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers
and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for
splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of
these components will cause loss of lubricant,
together with dirt and water entry, resulting in
rapid wear of the balljoints or steering gear.
3On vehicles with power steering, check the
fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and
the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also
check for signs of fluid leakage under
pressure from the steering gear rubber
gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals
within the steering gear.
4Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and
6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see
illustration). Very slight free play may be felt,
but if the movement is appreciable, further
investigation is necessary to determine the
source. Continue rocking the wheel while an
assistant depresses the footbrake. If the
movement is now eliminated or significantly
reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are
at fault. If the free play is still evident with the
footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the
suspension joints or mountings.
5Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3
o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.
Any movement felt now may again be caused
by wear in the hub bearings or the steering
track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint
is worn, the visual movement will be obvious.
6Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check
for wear in the suspension mounting bushes
by levering between the relevant suspension
component and its attachment point. Some
movement is to be expected as the mountings
are made of rubber, but excessive wear
should be obvious. Also check the condition
of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,
cracks or contamination of the rubber.
7Inspect the front suspension lower arms for
distortion or damage (Chapter 10, Section 5).
8With the car standing on its wheels, have an
assistant turn the steering wheel back and
forth about an eighth of a turn each way.
There should be very little, if any, lost
movement between the steering wheel and
roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely
observe the joints and mountings previously
described, but in addition, check the steering
column universal joints for wear, and the rack-
and-pinion steering gear itself.
Suspension strut/shock
absorber check
Note:Suspension struts/shock absorbers
should always be renewed in pairs on the
same axle.9Check for any signs of fluid leakage around
the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or
from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod.
Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension
strut/shock absorber is defective internally,
and should be renewed.
10The efficiency of the suspension
strut/shock absorber may be checked by
bouncing the vehicle at each corner. The body
will return to its normal position and stop after
being depressed. If it rises and returns on a
rebound, the suspension strut/shock
absorber is probably suspect. Examine also
the suspension strut/shock absorber upper
and lower mountings for any signs of wear.
6Driveshaft gaiter check
2
With the vehicle raised and securely
supported on stands, turn the steering onto
full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.
Inspect the condition of the outer constant
velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing
the gaiters to open out the folds (see
illustration). Check for signs of cracking,
splits or deterioration of the rubber, which
may allow the grease to escape, and lead to
water and grit entry into the joint. Also check
the security and condition of the retaining
clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV
joints. If any damage or deterioration is found,
the gaiters should be renewed as described in
Chapter 8.
1•10Every 9000 miles or 12 months
6.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft
gaiters (A) and clips (B)
5.4 Check for wear in the hub bearings by
grasping the wheel and trying to rock it
A leak in the cooling system will usually
show up as white or rust coloured
deposits on the area adjoining the leak

At the same time, check the general
condition of the CV joints themselves by first
holding the driveshaft and attempting to
rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding
the inner joint and attempting to rotate the
driveshaft. Any appreciable movement
indicates wear in the joints, wear in the
driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft
retaining nut.
7Automatic transmission fluid
level check
2
Note: The transmission fluid level can be
checked either when it is cold (only below
35ºC (100ºF) outside temperature) or when it is
fully warmed up to normal operating
temperature (after driving for a distance of
approximately 12 miles/20 km). Since the fluid
level must be checked with the engine
running, ensure that the vehicle is parked on
level ground with the handbrake firmly applied
before leaving the driver’s seat. Be careful to
keep loose clothing, long hair, etc., well clear
of hot or moving components when working
under the bonnet
Transmission cold
1Park the vehicle on level ground and apply
the handbrake firmly. With the engine running
at no more than idle speed and your foot
firmly on the brake pedal, move the selector
lever through all positions, ending in position
“P”. Allow the engine to idle for one minute,
then check the level within two minutes.
2With the engine still idling and position “P”
still selected, open the bonnet and withdraw
the transmission dipstick from the filler tube
located in the front of the transmission casing,
at the left-hand end of the engine.
3Note the fluid’s condition (see below), then
wipe clean the dipstick using a clean,
non-fluffy rag, insert it fully back into the tube
and withdraw it again.
4The level should be up to the “MAX” mark
on the “+20°C” side of the dipstick (see
illustration).
5If topping-up is required, switch off the
ignition and add only good quality fluid of the
specified type through the filler tube. Ifsignificant amounts of fluid are being lost
(carefully note the amounts being added, and
how often), check the transmission for leaks
and either repair the fault or take the vehicle to
a Vauxhall dealer for attention.
6When the level is correct, ensure that the
dipstick is pressed firmly into the filler tube.
Transmission fully warmed up
7Work exactly as described above, but take
the level reading from the “+ 80°C” side of the
dipstick. In this case, the level must be
between the dipstick “MAX” and “MIN”
marks.
Checking the fluid’s condition
8Whenever the fluid level is checked,
examine the condition of the fluid and
compare its colour, smell and texture with that
of new fluid.
9If the fluid is dark, almost black, and smells
burnt, it is possible that the transmission
friction material is worn or disintegrating. The
vehicle should be taken to a Vauxhall dealer
or automatic transmission specialist for
immediate attention.
10If the fluid is milky, this is due to the
presence of emulsified droplets of water. This
may be caused either by condensation after a
prolonged period of short journeys or by the
entry of water through the dipstick/filler tube
or breather. If the fluid does not revert to its
normal appearance after a long journey it
must be renewed or advice should be sought
from a Vauxhall dealer or automatic
transmission specialist.
11If the fluid is varnish-like (i.e. light to dark
brown and tacky) it has oxidised due to
overheating or to over or under filling. If
renewal of the fluid does not cure the
problem, the vehicle should be taken to a
Vauxhall dealer or automatic transmission
specialist for immediate attention.
12If at any time on checking the fluid level or
on draining the fluid, particles of dirt, metal
chips or other foreign matter are found in the
fluid, the vehicle must be taken to a Vauxhall
dealer or automatic transmission specialist for
immediate attention. It may be necessary to
strip, clean and reassemble at least the valve
body, if not the complete transmission, to
rectify any fault.
8Radiator inspection and
cleaning
1
1Inspect radiator for leaks or corrosion,
especially around the outlet or inlet
connectors.
2Clean the radiator with a soft brush or
compressed air. Remove any debris, like dead
insects or leaves.
3If leaks are visible, replace radiator. Refer to
Chapter 3, if necessary.
9Idle speed and mixture -
adjustment
2
Note: On certain models, the idle and mixture
are automatically adjusted by a control unit,
therefore cannot be altered.
Refer to Chapters 4A or 4B as applicable.
10Throttle linkage
maintenance
2
On models built before 1992, lubricate the
throttle linkage, as described in Chapters 4A
or 4B, as applicable.
11Exhaust system check
2
1With the engine off, check the security of
the exhaust system. Pay particular attention
to the rubber mountings that suspend the
exhaust.
2Start the engine and check underneath for
leaks, which can be heard. This job is made
easier if you have access to a ramp.
3Listen for exhaust leaks from around the
front pipe to exhaust manifold joint.
4For further information, refer to Chapter 4C
12Wiring check
1
1Check all wiring in both the engine
compartment and under the car.
2Ensure that all wiring clips/clamps are secure.
3Pay particular attention to wiring near
components that get hot, i.e. exhaust
systems.
4Make sure that electrical connections are
secure and undamaged.
13Ignition timing
3
Refer to Chapter 5 for details.
Every 9000 miles or 12 months 1•11
7.4 When checking the fluid level, ensure
side of dipstick used corresponds with
fluid temperature
1
Warning: Voltages produced by
an electronic ignition system
are considerably higher than
those produced by conventional
ignition systems. Extreme care must be
taken when working on the system with
the ignition switched on. Persons with
surgically implanted cardiac pacemaker
devices should keep away from the
ignition circuits, components and test
equipment.