1988 OPEL CALIBRA ECO mode

4If adjustment is necessary, release the
clamp screw and turn the cam plate in the
desired direction. Tighten the clamp screw,
and recheck the pump delivery (see
illustration).
Removal
5Proceed as described in Section 17,
paragraphs 1 and 2.
6Thoroughly clean all external dirt from the
area around the accelerator pump housing.
7Remove the four securing screws and lift off
the accelerator pump cover. Recover the
diaphragm, spring, valve retainer and valve.
Note the orientation of the valve retainer.
Refitting
8Clean the mating faces of the cover and
housing.
9Check the condition of the valve, and renew
if necessary.
10Begin refitting by locating the valve, valve
retainer and spring in the housing. Note that
the valve retainer can only be fitted in one
position. The larger diameter of the spring
should rest against the valve retainer.
11Locate the diaphragm on the housing,
ensuring that the spring is correctly seated,
and refit the cover. Tighten the cover securing
screws progressively to avoid distorting the
diaphragm (see illustration).
12Further refitting is a reversal of removal.
19Automatic choke unit -
removal, refitting and
adjustment
3
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A
tachometer and an exhaust gas analyser will
be required to check the idle speed and
mixture on completion. If the coolant housing
is removed, new O-rings will be required for
refitting
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 17,
paragraphs 1 and 2.
2Note the position of the bi-metal housing
alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if
necessary making additional marks for clarity,
then remove the three securing screws and lift
off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing to
one side, taking care not to strain the coolant
hoses or electric choke heater wiring.
3Remove the three screws securing the
choke housing to the carburettor body, and
withdraw the choke assembly, taking care not
to bend the choke operating rod.
4If it is necessary to remove the bi-metal
housing for renewal, continue as follows;
otherwise go on to paragraph 8.
5Identify the automatic choke coolant hose
locations as an aid to refitting, then
disconnect the hoses. Be prepared for
coolant spillage, and either plug the hoses, or
secure them with their ends facing upwards,
to prevent further loss of coolant.
6Disconnect the wiring from the electric
choke heater, and withdraw the bi-metal
housing.
7The coolant housing can be separated from
the bi-metal housing by unscrewing the
central securing bolt. Recover the O-rings
from under the bolt head, and from the rim of
the coolant housing.
Refitting
8Begin refitting by locating the choke
assembly on the carburettor body, ensuring
that the lever on the choke assembly engages
with the choke operating rod. Tighten the
three securing screws.
9Check and if necessary adjust the choke
valve gap and the fast idle cam position, as
described in paragraphs 15 to 19, of this
Section.10Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke
lever, position the bi-metal housing on the
choke housing, and loosely fit the securing
screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal
housing and the choke housing as noted
during removal, then tighten the securing
screws.
11Where applicable, refit the coolant
housing to the bi-metal housing, using new O-
rings if necessary, and reconnect the coolant
hoses and electric choke heater wiring.
12Further refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
13If the coolant hoses have been
disconnected, check the coolant level, as
described in Chapter 3.
14Check and if necessary adjust the fast idle
speed, as described in paragraphs 25 to 34,
of this Section.
Adjustment
Choke valve gap
15With the bi-metal housing removed as
described in paragraphs 2 to 4, of this
Section, continue as follows.
16Press the choke operating lever fully
clockwise, and retain it in position with a
rubber band.
17Move the throttle lever to the fully open
position, and measure the choke valve gap
between the lower side of the choke plate and
the wall of the primary barrel. Check that the
gap is as given in the Specifications.
18If necessary, adjust the choke valve gap
by bending the “adjuster segment (2)” If the
gap is too small, enlarge gap “B”, by levering
with a screwdriver. If the gap is too large,
decrease gap “B” using a pair of pliers (see
illustration).
19If no further adjustments are to be carried
out, refit the bi-metal housing, as described in
paragraphs 10 to 14, of this Section.
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•9
18.11 Carburettor accelerator pump components
1 Cover with operating lever
2 Diaphragm
3 Spring4 Valve
5 Air passage
18.4 Accelerator pump delivery adjustment: “+” to
increase, “-” to reduce
4A

Fast idle cam position
20With the bi-metal housing removed, and
the choke valve gap “B”, correctly set,
continue as follows.
21Open the throttle valve, then close the
choke valve using light finger pressure on the
choke drive lever (see illustration). Close the
throttle valve.
22Check that the fast idle speed adjustment
screw is resting against the stop on the
second highest step of the fast idle cam.
23If adjustment is required, first check that
the choke return spring is correctly
positioned, then adjust by bending the
adjustment lever.
24Refit the bi-metal housing, as described in
paragraphs 10 to 14 of this Section.
Fast idle speed
Note: To carry out the adjustment, an
accurate tachometer and an exhaust gas
analyser (CO meter) will be required
25Check the idle speed and mixture, as
described in Section 14. The idle speed must
be correct before attempting to check or
adjust the fast idle speed.
26With the engine at normal operating
temperature, and a tachometer connected
according to the equipment manufacturer’s
instructions, continue as follows.
27Position the fast idle speed adjustment
screw on the second highest step of the fast
idle cam (see illustration).
28Start the engine without touching the
throttle pedal, and check that the fast idle
speed is as specified. If adjustment is
required, stop the engine and continue as
follows.29Remove the tamperproof cap from the
fast idle speed adjustment screw, ensure that
no local or national laws are being broken by
doing so (see illustration).
30Ensure that the adjustment screw is still
resting on the second highest step of the fast
idle cam, then start the engine, again without
touching the throttle pedal.
31Turn the adjustment screw using a
screwdriver, until the specified fast idle speed
is obtained.
32If the cooling fan cuts in during the
adjustment procedure, stop the adjustments,
and continue when the cooling fan stops.
33On completion of adjustment, stop the
engine and disconnect the tachometer.
34Fit a new tamperproof cap to the fast idle
speed adjustment screw, where this is
required by law.
20Automatic choke vacuum
pull-down units - removal,
refitting and adjustment
3
Main diaphragm unit
Note: Refer to Section 2 before proceeding. A
new star clip must be used when refitting the
diaphragm unit. Test vacuum units as
described in Section 16, paragraph 1.
Removal
1Proceed as described in Section 17,
paragraphs 1 and 2.
2Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum
pipes.
3Using a pin punch, tap out the roll pin
securing the diaphragm unit to the carburettor
top cover.
4Note the position of the bi-metal housing
alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if
necessary making additional marks for clarity,
then remove the three securing screws, and
lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing
to one side, taking care not to strain the
coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.
4A•10Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models
19.18 Choke valve gap adjustment
1 Choke operating lever
2 Adjuster segment
B Choke valve gap
19.21 Fast idle cam adjustment
1 Fast idle cam
2 Adjustment lever
3 Choke drive lever
4 Fast idle speed adjustment screw
19.29 Tamperproof cap (arrowed) fast idle speed adjustment
screw19.27 Fast idle speed adjustment
3 Fast idle speed adjustment screw
4 Screw positioned on second highest step of cam

5Remove the three screws securing the
choke assembly to the carburettor body.
Allow the choke assembly to drop down, but
do not disconnect the choke linkage.
6Remove the star clip that secures the
diaphragm unit to the carburettor top cover,
and withdraw the diaphragm unit.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, but use a
new star clip to secure the diaphragm unit to
the carburettor top cover. Before refitting the
air box to the top of the carburettor, check
and if necessary adjust the choke pull-down,
as follows.
Vacuum pull-down
Adjustment
8With the air cleaner or air box removed from
the top of the carburettor, as described in
Section 17, paragraph 2, continue as follows.
9Note the position of the bi-metal housing
alignment marks as an aid to refitting, if
necessary making additional marks for clarity,
then remove the three securing screws, and
lift off the bi-metal housing. Place the housing
to one side, taking care not to strain the
coolant hoses or electric choke heater wiring.
10Position the fast idle speed adjustment
screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam,
and check that the choke valve is closed.
11Move the pull-down arm towards the
diaphragm unit by pushing on the adjustment
screw until resistance is felt. Hold the arm in
this position.
12Using a drill shank of appropriate
diameter, or a similar item, measure the
clearance between the lower side of the
choke plate and the wall of the primary barrel
(see illustrations). Check that the clearance
is as given for the “small” choke pull-down
gap in the Specifications.
13If adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjustment screw in the appropriate direction,
using an Allen key, until the clearance is
correct.14Now push the pull-down arm towards the
diaphragm unit as far as its stop, and hold the
arm in this position.
15As before measure the clearance between
the lower side of the choke plate and the wall
of the primary barrel. Check that the
clearance is as given for the “large” choke
pull-down gap in the Specifications.
16If adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjustment screw in the appropriate direction
until the clearance is correct.
17Connect the bi-metal spring to the choke
lever, position the bi-metal housing on the
choke housing and loosely fit the securing
screws. Align the marks on the bi-metal
housing and the choke housing as noted
during removal, then tighten the securing
screws.
18Refit the air box to the top of the
carburettor on completion.
Secondary pull-down solenoid
Removal
19This unit operates in conjunction with the
main diaphragm unit.
20To remove the solenoid unit, first continue
as described in Section 17, paragraphs 1 and
2.
21Disconnect the diaphragm unit vacuum
pipe.22Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew
the securing screw, and withdraw the
solenoid unit and its mounting bracket from
the carburettor. Note that the securing screw
also secures the wiring plug earth lead (see
illustration).
Refitting
23Refitting is a reversal of removal, but
ensure that the wiring plug earth lead is in
place under the solenoid bracket securing
screw.
21Carburettor filter -removal
and refitting
3
Removal
1A small tubular filter gauze is fitted into the
carburettor top cover’s fuel inlet union to
remove any particles of dirt from the fuel.
2To ensure a clean fuel supply and to
prevent the risk of misfiring, poor starting or
other problems due to a restricted fuel supply,
this filter must be cleaned and/or renewed at
the interval specified in Chapter 1.
3To reach the filter, remove the air cleaner or
air box, as applicable, then disconnect and
plug the hose from the fuel pump or vapour
separator to the top cover union.
4Remove the filter by hooking it out with a
small screwdriver, or by snaring it with a long
thin screw (3 mm thread size, screwed
approximately 5 mm into the filter).
5If the filter is blocked or heavily fouled, or if
it is torn, distorted or damaged in any way, it
must be renewed. If it is fit for further use,
clean it using a jet of compressed air or by
brushing away particles of dirt with an old soft
toothbrush. Then flushing it in clean solvent,
taking care not to allow any overspray to get
into your eyes; if petrol is used, take care to
prevent the risk of fire.
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•11
20.12B Checking the vacuum pull-down gap using a twist drill
20.22 Secondary choke pull-down
solenoid securing screw and earth lead
20.12A Choke vacuum pull-down adjustment
1 Adjustment screw 2 Diaphragm unit A Twist drill
4A

4Disconnect the coolant hose from the rear
of the manifold (see illustration).
5Where applicable, disconnect the camshaft
cover breather hose from the rear of the
manifold (see illustration).
6Unscrew the union and disconnect the
brake servo vacuum hose from the manifold.
7On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect the
wiring from the temperature gauge sender.
8Unscrew and remove the top alternator
mounting nut and bolt.
9On 1.4 and 1.6 litre models, disconnect and
remove the stub hose that connects the
crankcase breather tube to the rear of the
camshaft housing.
10Make a final check to ensure that all
relevant hoses, pipes and wires have been
disconnected.
11Unscrew the securing nuts, and withdraw
the manifold from the cylinder head (see
illustration). Note the position of the rear
engine lifting bracket, which is secured by one
of the manifold nuts, and recover the manifoldgasket.
12It is possible that some of the manifold
studs may be unscrewed from the cylinder
head when the manifold securing nuts are
unscrewed. In this event, the studs should be
screwed back into the cylinder head once the
manifold has been removed, using two
manifold nuts locked together.
13If desired, the carburettor can be removed
from the manifold, referring to Section 13, if
necessary.
Refitting
14Refitting is a reversal of removal,
remembering the following points.
15If the carburettor has been removed from
the manifold, refit it, using a new gasket.
16If the alternator mounting bracket has
been unbolted from the manifold, refit it
before refitting the manifold, as access to the
securing bolt is extremely limited once the
manifold is in place.
17Refit the manifold using a new gasket,and ensure that the engine lifting bracket is in
place under the relevant manifold nut. Tighten
the nuts to the specified torque.
18Ensure that all relevant hoses, pipes and
wires are correctly reconnected.
19Refill the cooling system, as described in
Chapter 3.
20Check the throttle cable free play and
adjust if necessary, as described in Section
11.
21If the carburettor has been disturbed,
check and if necessary adjust the idle speed
and mixture, as described in Section 14.
Fuel and exhaust systems - carburettor models 4A•13
26.5 . . .and the camshaft cover breather
hose (arrowed) from the inlet manifold -
1.6 litre model
26.11 Withdrawing the inlet manifold -
1.6 litre model
26.4 Disconnecting the coolant hose . . .
4A
25.1 Carburettor idle cut-off solenoid
(arrowed) - 1.8 litre models

to-metal contact between components, due
to flexible rubber mountings, etc.
To check whether a component is properly
earthed, disconnect the battery, and connect
one lead of an ohmmeter to a known good
earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire
or earth connection being tested. The
resistance reading should be zero; if not,
check the connection as follows.
If an earth connection is thought to be
faulty, dismantle the connection, and clean
back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the
wire terminal or the component earth
connection mating surface. Be careful to
remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then
use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a
clean metal-to-metal joint is made. On
reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners
securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted,
use serrated washers between the terminal
and the bodyshell, to ensure a clean and
secure connection. When the connection is
remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the
future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly or
silicone-based grease.
3Fuses and relays - general
Fuses
1Fuses are designed to break a circuit when
a predetermined current is reached, to protect
the components and wiring which could be
damaged by excessive current flow. Any
excessive current flow will be due to a fault in
the circuit, usually a short-circuit (Section 2).
2The main fuses and relays are located in a
panel at the lower right-hand side of the facia,
under a hinged cover (see illustration).
3The circuits protected by the various fuses
and relays are marked on the inside of the
panel cover.
4A blown fuse can be recognised from its
melted or broken wire.
5To remove a fuse, first ensure that the
relevant circuit is switched off. Then open the
cover and pull the relevant fuse or relay from the
panel (see illustration). If desired, the lower
end of the panel can be tilted forwards, after
releasing the retaining clips to improve access. 6Before renewing a blown fuse, trace and
rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the
correct rating. Never substitute a fuse of a
higher rating, or make temporary repairs using
wire or metal foil, as more serious damage or
even fire could result.
7Spare fuses are provided in the blank
terminal positions in the fusebox.
8Note that the fuses are colour-coded, see
Specifications. Refer to the wiring diagrams
for details of the fuse ratings and the circuits
protected.
Relays
9A relay is an electrically operated switch,
which is used for the following reasons:
a)A relay can switch a heavy current
remotely from the circuit in which the
current is flowing, allowing the use of
lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts.
b)A relay can receive more than one control
input, unlike a mechanical switch.
c)A relay can have a timer function - for
example, the intermittent wiper relay.
10Most of the relays are located at the rear
of the main fusebox (remove the securing
screws and pull the fusebox forwards to
improve access). The rear wiper motor relay is
located in the tailgate, behind the tailgate trim
panel. On some models, additional engine-
related relays are located in the relay box
mounted on the left-hand side of the engine
compartment.
11On certain models, additional relays are
located in a box at the left-hand rear of the
engine compartment (see illustration).
12If a circuit or system controlled by a relay
develops a fault, and the relay is suspect,
operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it
should be possible to hear it “click” as it is
energised. If this is the case, the fault lies with
the components or wiring of the system. If the
relay is not being energised, then either the
relay is not receiving a main supply or a
switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty.
Testing is by the substitution of a known good
unit, but be careful - while some relays are
identical in appearance and in operation, others
look similar but perform different functions.
13To remove a relay, first ensure that the
relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can
then simply be pulled out from the socket,
and pushed back into position.
4Ignition switch and lock
cylinder - removal and
refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Turn the steering wheel as necessary to
expose the two front steering column shroud
securing screws, which are covered by plastic
caps. Prise out the caps and remove the
screws.
3Remove the three securing screws from the
underside of the lower column shroud, then
remove both the upper and lower shrouds.
4To remove the lock cylinder, insert the
ignition key and turn it to position “II”.
5Insert a thin rod into the hole in the lock
housing, then press the rod to release the
detent spring, and pull out the lock cylinder
using the key.
6The ignition switch is secured to the
steering lock housing by two grub screws.
Disconnect the wiring plug, and remove the
screws to extract the switch (see illustration).
Removal of the steering wheel, may aid
removal. Refer to Chapter 10 or Section 57, as
applicable. It is recommended that the switch
and the lock cylinder are not both removed at
the same time, so that their mutual alignment
is not lost.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Body electrical systems 12•3
3.11 Relays in engine compartment box -
2.0 litre SRi model shown
4.6 Removing an ignition switch securing
screw
3.5 Removing a fuse -
2.0 litre model shown3.2 Main fuses and relays in facia panel -
2.0 litre SRi model shown
12

8Electric door mirror switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise the plastic surround from the door
interior handle.
3Free the trim panel from the top edge of the
door by releasing the securing clips. This can
be done using a screwdriver, but it is
preferable to use a forked tool, to minimise
the possibility of damage to the trim panel and
the clips.
4Note the position of the mirror switch wiring
connector in the bracket at the top of the
door, then separate the two halves of the
connector.
5Prise the switch from the door trim panel,
and feed the wiring through the panel.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure
that the wiring is correctly routed, so as not to
foul the door interior handle mechanism.
9Sunroof operating switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Prise the courtesy lamp from the roof trim
panel, and disconnect the wiring.
3Remove the two trim panel securing
screws, and withdraw the trim panel from the
roof, disconnecting the wiring from the
sunroof operating switch.
4Release the securing clips, then pull the
switch from the rear face of the trim panel.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
10Courtesy lamp switch -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the door and remove the switch
securing screw.
3Withdraw the switch from the door pillar,
and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it
from springing back into the pillar.4Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
11Luggage compartment lamp
switch - removal and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Open the boot lid or tailgate, as applicable,
and remove the switch securing screw.
3Withdraw the switch from the body panel,
and pull the wiring out sufficiently to prevent it
from springing back into the body.
4Disconnect the wiring and remove the
switch.
Refitting
5Refitting is a reversal of removal.
12Brake lamp switch - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the lower trim panel from the
driver’s footwell.
3Disconnect the wiring plug from the brake
lamp switch, then twist the switch
anti-clockwise and remove it from its bracket.
Refitting
4Refitting is a reversal of removal.
13Handbrake “on” warning
lamp switch - removal and
refitting
3
For access to the switch, the handbrake
lever must be removed. Removal and refitting
of the switch is described as part of the
handbrake lever removal and refitting
procedure, in Chapter 9.
14Oil pressure warning lamp
switch - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2The switch is screwed into the oil pump, on
the inlet manifold side of the engine. On 1.4
and 1.6 litre (except C16 NZ2), models the
switch projects at right-angles to the
crankshaft axis, while on C16 NZ2, 1.8 and
2.0 litre models it is parallel to the crankshaft
(see illustration).
3In most cases the switch can be reached
quite easily from above. However, on some
models access will be easier if the front of the
vehicle is jacked up and supported on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
(ensure that the handbrake is securely
applied) and the front right-hand roadwheel is
removed.
4Disconnect the switch wire and use a
spanner to unscrew the switch (see
illustration). As you withdraw the switch,
swiftly plug the hole in the oil pump to
minimise the loss of oil and to prevent the
entry of dirt.
Refitting
5Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the switch securely but do
not overtighten it, reconnect its wire, then
check and if necessary top-up the oil level, as
described in Chapter 1. Wash off any spilt oil
and check for leaks when the engine is
restarted.
15Cigarette lighter - removal
and refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Slide the ashtray/cigarette lighter assembly
from the facia, then disconnect the wiring and
slide the illumination bulb from the cigarette
lighter.
Body electrical systems 12•5
14.4 Unscrewing the oil pressure warning
lamp switch -
SOHC model (engine removed)14.2 Oil pressure warning lamp switch
(arrowed) viewed from underneath vehicle
- SOHC model
12
Tape the wiring to the door
pillar, to prevent if falling
back into the door pillar.
Alternatively, tie a piece of
string to the wiring to retrieve it.

Brake fluid level sensor
14The procedure is as described for the
coolant level sensor in paragraphs 7 to 10
inclusive.
Engine oil level sensor
Removal
15Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
16On DOHC models, remove the engine
undershield, as described in Chapter 11.
17Disconnect the sensor wiring plug.
18Unscrew the three or four sensor securing
screws, as applicable, and withdraw the
sensor, manipulating the float through the hole
in the sump (see illustration). Recover the
sealing ring. Be prepared for some oil spillage.
19Examine the condition of the sealing ring,
and renew if necessary.
Refitting
20Refitting is a reversal of removal. On
completion, check, and if necessary top-up,
the engine oil level.
Bulb failure sensor
Removal
21The bulb failure sensor is mounted behind
the fuse/relay panel in the facia.
22Release the retaining clips from the lower
end of the fuse/relay panel, and tilt it forwards.23Reach up behind the fuse/relay panel, and
pull the sensor from its socket.
Refitting
24Refitting is a reversal of removal.
22Horn(s) - removal and refitting
2
1On models with a single horn, the horn is
located in front of the radiator. On models
with twin horns, the horns are located beneath
the washer fluid reservoir, at the left-hand end
of the front bumper.
Single horn
Removal
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Remove the radiator grille panel, with
reference to Chapter 11.
4Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the
horn.
5Reach up behind the mounting bracket, and
unscrew the single nut securing the horn to the
bracket (see illustration). Withdraw the horn.
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
Twin horns
Removal
7Disconnect the battery negative lead.
8Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front
of the vehicle, and support securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”)
positioned under the body side members.
9Remove the securing screws, and withdraw
the plastic cover (where fitted) from the
bumper/front wing to expose the horns.
10Remove the bolt securing the horn
mounting bracket to the bracket below the
washer fluid reservoir (see illustration).
11Withdraw the horns and disconnect the
wiring.
12If desired, the horns can be unbolted from
the bracket.
Refitting
13Refitting is a reversal of removal.
23Interior lamps - removal and
refitting
2
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the
lamp from its location and disconnect the
wiring (see illustration).
Refitting
3Refitting is a reversal of removal.
24Interior lamp bulbs - renewal
1
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
Courtesy lamp
Note: Some later models are fitted with
courtesy lamps for the rear seat passengers,
as well as front.
Removal
2Using a thin-bladed screwdriver, prise the
lamp from its location and disconnect the
wiring.
3On models fitted with a courtesy lamp with
integral map reading lamps, the lens must be
levered from the housing for access to the
bulbs.
12•8Body electrical systems
21.18 Engine oil level sensor - DOHC model
22.10 Horn mounting bracket securing
bolt (arrowed) - twin horned model23.2 Withdrawing the courtesy lamp
22.5 Horn viewed from behind with radiator removed - single
horned model

2Disconnect the washer hose and withdraw
the nozzle.
Refitting
3To refit, reconnect the washer hose to the
nozzle, and push the nozzle into its locating
hole.
4The nozzles can be adjusted by inserting a
pin into the jet, and swivelling it to the
required position.
1991-on models
5The nozzles on all later models are fitted
with twin jets.
6On some later models, the nozzles are
heated; the circuit is fed through fuse 29 and
is live whenever the ignition is switched on.
Current is regulated by a Positive
Temperature Coefficient (PTC) resistor that
takes outside temperature into account.
38Windscreen wiper motor and
linkage - removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the wiper arms, as described in
Section 36.
3Remove the windscreen cowl panel, as
described in Chapter 11.
4Disconnect the wiring plug from the motor
(see illustration). 5Unscrew the three bolts securing the
motor/linkage assembly to the body, then
withdraw the assembly (see illustrations).
6If desired, the motor can be removed from
the linkage by unscrewing the three securing
bolts. Do not attempt to dismantle the linkage.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal.
39Tailgate wiper motor -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the wiper arm, as described in
Section 36.
3Extract the securing screws, and remove
the rear tailgate trim panel.
4Disconnect the motor wiring plug.
5Unscrew the two motor securing bolts,
noting the earth leads under the bolt heads
(see illustration).
6Manipulate the motor assembly from the
tailgate.
Refitting
7Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring
that the cut-out in the drive spindle rubber
seal engages with the notch in the drive
spindle (see illustration).
40Headlamp wiper motor -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the wiper arm, as described in
Section 36.
3Remove the headlamp, as described in
Section 25.
4Disconnect the motor wiring plug.
5Unscrew the two bolts securing the motor
mounting bracket to the body panel, then
withdraw the motor (see illustrations).
Refitting
6Refitting is a reversal of removal.
12•14Body electrical systems
38.4 Disconnecting the windscreen wiper
motor wiring plug
38.5B . . . then withdraw the assembly
40.5B . . . and withdraw the motor40.5A Unscrew the headlamp wiper motor
securing bolts . . .39.7 Cut-out in tailgate wiper motor drive
spindle rubber seal must engage with
notch in drive spindle
39.5 Tailgate wiper motor assembly. Note
earth leads under heads of securing bolts
38.5A Unscrew the windscreen wiper
motor/linkage assembly securing bolts . .