1988 FIAT TEMPRA check oil

G Step 43: Stop the engine and allow it to cool, check the

oil
and coolant levels and look for any leaks.
G Step 44: Avoid over-rewing or overloading the engine
during its settling down period of 600 miles. We recommend

an oil
and filter change at this mileage
-
this will help to
extend the life of your new engine.
Job 7. Petrol engine.
Valve clearances - adjustment.
0 INSIDE INFORMATION! Adjustment should always be
made with the engine cold. B
G Step 1: Remove the camshaft cover and the spark plugs.
Jack up a front wheel and engage top gear. Turning the wheel
will rotate the engine and therefore the camshaft. If the
engine
is
out of the car, use a socket and long lever on the
crankshaft pulley nut. If the cylinder head is detached, turn

the
camshaft belt sprocket, by hand.
G Step 2: The inlet and exhaust valves use different clear-

ances
which are checked when each cam lobe is pointing
directly away from its follower. See Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
G Step 3: The order in which the valves are fitted in the
cylinder head is:
Inlet: 2-3-6-7
Exhaust: 1-4-5-8

from
the timing cover end.
G Step 4: Select a feeler blade which is about the thickness

of the
correct valve clearance and insert it between the heel of

the cam
and the cam follower shim when the cam lobe is
uppermost. If necessary, select different thicknesses of feeler
blade until a small amount of drag can be felt as the blade is
pushed in and out. Record the total blade thickness. This is the
valve clearance for this valve.
G Step 5: Rotate the camshaft and repeat this operation on

each
of the remaining seven valves, noting their respective
clearances. Those which have clearances within limits
obviously don't need any further attention.
Q Step 6: The remaining valves will now need to have their
shims (arrowed) changed for thicker or thinner ones, bringing
their clearances to within the specifications shown in Chapter
3, Facts and Figures
Ll Step 7: A special tool is needed to depress the cam
follower and allow extraction of the shim. This is available
from your FIAT dealer, or you will have to make a lever with a
fork that locates nicely on the rim of a cam follower allowing
removal of the shim by prising it from the follower.
• Step 8: The
thickness of a shim
is engraved on it in
mm (arrowed). If
this is worn away,
you will have to
measure the
thickness with a
metric micrometer
-

or have your FIAT
dealer do it for you.
Your FIAT dealer can
also supply any new
thickness of shim
you may require.
• Step 9: Where
a clearance is too
small with the thinnest shim in position, the valves should be
removed and the stem ground just sufficiently to make the
correction. Your FIAT dealer can do this, keeping the end
square and retaining a smooth finish.
fjfefe^ | Job 7-10
Q Step 10: Be sure to use a new gasket when the cover is
replaced.

Q Step 23: Undo the mounting bolts, making sure the
power unit is supported safely as you take the last bolts out.
• Step 24: Lower the power unit to the ground and pull
clear.
Job 9. Petrol engine/transmission
- refitting.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! The power unit can be refitted
by simply reversing the order of the operations for
removal as set out in the previous job. However, the
following points should receive your attention as the
work progresses. H
• Step 1: Refer to Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures for the
torque settings when refitting the various components.
• Step 2: If you don't have the FIAT too! (arrowed) to fit
the special Oetiker bands on the drive-shaft boots, use
woodworker's pincers, or fit new jubilee clips and screw them
reasonably tight.
• Step 3: Check the condition of all hoses and clips and
replace them if suspect.
• Step 4: Make sure all the electrical connections are
correctly made and are sound.
Q Step 5: Make sure the engine and gearbox have the
correct grades and quantities of oil. See Chapter
3,
Facts
and

Figures.
Q Step 6: Check that the cooling system has the correct
coolant mixture. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
• Step 7: Make a final check that nothing has been left un-
connected before starting up.
• Step 8: Run the engine up to working temperature and
then switch off. Check for leaks and re-check the fluid levels
when cold.

Job 10. Petrol engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- separation.
Job 11. Petrol engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- reconnection.
• Clean the whole unit
with a proprietary
degreaser
-
and dry off

before
starting work.
•
This
makes these heavy components easier and safer
to
handle
and greatly reduces the risk of contami-

nation
when you strip them down.
Job 10-1
Q Step 1: Undo and remove the transmission mounting

bracket (b),
the starter motor (d) and unbolt and remove the

pressed
steel cover plate (a) from the lower face of the
flywheel housing. Undo the flywheel housing connecting bolts

and note
the position of the engine and transmission
mounting brackets and lifting eyes. The engine mounting arm

can be
left in place but the mounting itself (c) can now be
removed, if required.
Q Step 2: Support the weight of the transmission so that it
doesn't 'hang' on the clutch and withdraw it from the engine

in a
straight line.
Refer to Job
10
for the location of components referred to
here.
• Step 1: Offer the transmission to the engine. The input
shaft should slide easily through the splined hub of the driven
plate, provided that it is still centralised. See PART B:
TRANSMISSION Re-centre the clutch if necessary.
r ' «the input shaft and
- hub splines are not aligned,
ask a helper to turn the
crankshaft pulley nut while you apply gentle pressure
to bring the two units together.
• Step 2: Once the input shaft is properly engaged, use
two bolts, tightened evenly, to draw the units together.
DON'T force it! If the units don't come together easily,
separate them, check clutch centring and try again. Fit the
remaining bolts, not forgetting the lifting eyes and brackets.
• Step 3: Refit the flywheel housing cover plate and
mounting bracket.
Q Step 4: Refit the starter motor.
Job 12. Petrol engine.
Mountings - replacement.
See Job 8, Steps 21 to 23 for details of engine and trans-
mission mounting positions.
Change one mounting at
time.
• The others will help you
keep the power unit correctly positioned.
• Step 1: Support the weight of the power unit with a jack
until there is no upward or downward pressure on the
mounting to be changed.
Q Step 2: Undo the securing bolts and fit the new
mounting. Remove the supporting jack.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! If you unbolt the whole of
the rear mounting bracket, be sure to replace the two
bolts which go into the gearbox casing to prevent oil
leakage. D

FACT FILE: DIESEL ENGINES AND SPECIAL TOOLS
• As the
construction and
assembly of the
diesel engine is,
for the best part,
the same as the
petrol engines,
this section details
only those proce-
dures which are
specific to the
diesel.
• Major differ-
ences lie in the
areas of the
cylinder head and
camshaft drive
belt.
• Where
inspection of
components such
as crankshaft,
camshaft, pistons,
conrods, cylinder
head face, flywheel
etc. is not detailed
within this
section, refer to
the relevant infor-
mation in the
Petrol Engine
section, Job 6,
under Checking
for wear -
information which is common to all engine types.
• In view of the complexity of the diesel engine's camshaft drive arrangement, the need for special tooling and the
accuracy required in adjusting camshaft
timing and injection pump timing, we
strongly recommend that any work involving
disturbance of the timing belt or injection
pump is entrusted to a FIAT dealer.
• The following information is provided only
for those who have technical experience of
diesel engines, along with access to the
required tooling.
• Familiarise yourself with this drawing,
showing the cylinder head, block and other
major components referred to in the
following text.
1
-
cylinder block 2
-
sump 3
-
cylinder head 4
-
injection pump mounting 5
-
oil pick-up and pump 6
-
threaded bush 7
-
rear crank seal carrier 8
-
front cover/oil seal 9
-
plate
10
-
head gasket 11
-
camshaft rear bearing 12
-
camshaft front bearing 13
-
exhaust manifold 14
-
intake manifold 15
-
coolant pipe 16
-
water pump 17
-
cam cover 18
-
gasket
19-seal 20
-
valve 21
-
valve guide 22
-
spring seat 23
-
thermostat housing 24
-
oil filler cap 25
-
compression washer
1
-
strainer with gauze filter 2
-
geared oil pump 3
-
oil pressure relief valve 4
-
total capacity cartridge oil filter with safety valve to cut out filter element becomes blocked 5
-
main oil delivery pipe supplying various / components 6
-
oil delivery pipe to camshaft
IHSupply circuit I
I Return
circuit
a
-
camshaft b
-
vacuum pump c
-
bucket tappets d
-
valve guides e
-
valves f
-
piston g
-
gudgeon pin assemblie; h
-
conrod i
-
crankshaft j
-
crank journal k
-
flywheel

Q Step B11: Undo the belt tensioner nut (see illustration
Job 13-B10, part d), then remove the timing belt.
Q Step B12: Undo the nuts securing the brake vacuum
pump to the cylinder head (see illustration Job
16-1),
and
remove it.
• Step B13: Fit FIAT tool no. 1860932000 (for setting
camshaft timing) to the vacuum pump end of the camshaft,
matching the camshaft groove (1) with the lug (2) on the tool

Secure
the tool to the cylinder head, positioning the centring

dowel
(3) as shown. The dowel must be perfectly centred on

the tool,
and if it isn't, you should adjust the hexagonal bolt

(4) with
a spanner, and centre it with tiny movements.
• Step B14:

Remove
the bolt
(arrowed) which

secures
the front

cover
to the engine

block,
then fit the
timing belt on the
crankshaft sprocket.
• Step B16:
Lock the injection
pump sprocket (see
StepA13). Now,
using FIAT tool no.
1860831000,
slacken the bolt
securing the
camshaft sprocket.
• Step B17: Continue fitting the timing belt in the
following sequence: crankshaft sprocket, fixed tensioner,
injection pump sprocket, timing sprocket, belt tensioner... and
check that the mark on the injection pump lines up with the
fixed mark on the rear cover.
• Step B18: Use the timing belt tensioner to correctly
tension the belt.
B INSIDE INFORMATION: If you do not have the correct
tensioning tool, follow Steps A16 and A17. B
• Step B19: Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to the 1
specified torque (see Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures).
Q Step B20: Turn the crankshaft by two revolutions
(clockwise), tighten the belt tensioner to the specified torque
(see Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures) and remove the
tensioning tools. If the belt is correctly tensioned you should
just be able to twist it through a quarter-turn when gripping it
between thumb and finger in the centre of its longest run
between sprockets. Adjust as necessary.
O Step B21: Refit the remaining components in the reverse
order of removal, then check the injection timing. See
Chapter
5,
Servicing Your Car, Job 25.
Job 14. Diesel engine.
Cylinder head - removal.
• Disconnecting the high pressure pipes on a diesel
injection system can be dangerous!
• Read the Safety First! information at the start of
PART F: FUEL AND EXHAUST SYSTEMS before
starting work.
Q Step 1: Refer to Job
13
and remove the timing belt.
• Step 2: Drain the cooling system and disconnect the air
pipes from the inlet manifold.
Q Step 3: Disconnect
and remove the oil vapour
pipes from the cylinder
block device.
Job 13-B13
• Step B15: Fit

FIAT tool
No.
1860933000 for

precise
determination

of TDC
on cylinder

No. 1. The
tool must

be secured
firmly by

two bolts
to the
crankshaft sprocket,

and by
another bolt

to the
crankshaft front cover (where the bolt was previously
removed in Step B14).

SAFETY FIRST!
• The cylinder head is heavy and should be lifted from
the engine bay by two people.
Job 15. Diesel engine.
Cylinder head - refitting.
• Step 1: Put the
pistons at TDC
-
two
at a time
-
and
measure how much
they protrude above
the block surface.
This is ideally done
using a dial gauge
and holder (FIAT tools
1895882000 and
1870404000, respec-
tively) but if surfaces
• Step 15:
Unbolt the inlet

and
exhaust
manifold bolts...
• Step 16:
...and remove the
manifolds.
• Step 17:
Unscrew the

twelve bolts
and

remove
the cam
cover.
• Step 18:
Unbolt the cylinder
head (removing
the oil pipes, if
fitted)...
• Step 20: Not
forgetting the row
of five smaller,
outer bolts.
• Step 13:
Remove the bolt
securing the dipstick
tube (arrowed) and
the bolts fixing the
rear timing belt cover

to
the injection
pump support
bracket (arrowed).
Also, remove the
dipstick tube, if fitted

to the
support
bracket.
• Step 14: Undo

the
three exhaust
flange nuts (arrowed)

and
remove the

springs
from behind
them. Separate the

pipe from
the
manifold.
• Step 19:
...undoing the
head bolts half a
turn at a time, in
the order shown,
until all are loose. Job 14-19
• Step 21: Have
a good look to
check that there is
nothing still
connected and
preventing
removal of the
cylinder head.
With the help of
an assistant, lift
the cylinder head
from the engine
block. If you
prefer, you can lift the head complete with manifolding,
(turbo charger if fitted) and the inner top part of the timing
cover and remove them later.

are very clean, and great care is taken, it is possible to take an
average protrusion measurement based on measuring the
protrusion at each side (A) and (B) of the piston crown, using
a steel straight-edge and feeler gauges. Use the HIGHEST
average measurement of the four pistons as your working
figure.
Q Step 2: Now,
referring to the illus-
tration, select the
appropriate one of the
three available cylinder
head gasket thicknesses
as follows:
Measured protrusion
Up to 1.05 mm
1.05
-
1.20 mm
Over 1.20 mm
B INSIDE INFORMATION! The cylinder head gasket is of
the special 'ASTADUR' type and polymerises during
engine use, becoming much harder. It should only be
removed from its wrapping immediately before fitting
and then should be kept free of contamination by oil,
grease or water. Fit only between clean and dry cylinder
head and block surfaces. B
• Step 3: Discard the old gasket and thoroughly clean the
cylinder block mating surface and dry off. Make sure that the
bores are free of gasket particles.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! It is important to be sure that
all the cylinder head bolt holes in the block are clear
right down to their bottoms. The bolts and washers
should be cleaned, lubricated with engine oil and then
drained for at least 20 minutes before fitting. B
• Step 4: Clean the cylinder head, taking care not to gouge
the aluminium surface
-
use a straight edge that isn't too
sharp.
Q Step 5: Place the new gasket on the cylinder block with
the word 'ALTO' facing upwards.
• Step 6: Lower the head into position and screw all the
bolts in finger tight.
LI Step 7: Note the numbered tightening order of the ten
main cylinder head bolts. Using a suitable torque wrench,
proceed to tighten the ten main bolts in the following
sequence:
Stage i) Tighten to 50 Nm.
Stage ii) Tighten to 100 Nm.
• Step 8: Using
a suitable bar,
continue to tighten
IN EXACTLY THE
SAME ORDER AS
BEFORE, as
follows:
• Step 9:
Finally, using a
torque wrench,
Tighten the five
remaining smaller
bolts to 30 Nm.
Q Step 10: Now reverse the remaining steps in Job
74
to
reinstate all items removed or disconnected during removal of
the cylinder head. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures for
relevant torque figures and the coolant mixture and capacity.
• Step 11: Bleed the fuel system
-
refer to PART
F: FUEL

AND EXHAUST
• Step 12: Prior to initial start up, check that everything is
properly connected and secured. Run the engine to normal
working temperature, switch off and check all fuel lines and
coolant hoses for leaks. Allow to cool and check the coolant
level.
Gasket identification
No notches (1.65 mm gasket)
One notch (1.80 mm gasket)
Two notches (1.95 mm gasket)
Stage iii) Tighten
each bolt through
ninety degrees
(one quarter turn).
Stage iv) Tighten each bolt through a further ninety degrees.

1 - camshaft 2 - tappet 3 - collets 4 - valve spring 5
-
spring seat 6 - exhaust valve 7 - upper cup 8 - tappet plate 9 - inlet valve 10 - valve guide 11 - oil sealing ring
• Step 10: Remove the cam followers (2) complete with
shims
(8)
and keep them in order so that they can be refitted
in the same positions.
O Step 11: Using a suitable valve spring compressor,
compress the spring of the first valve and remove the split
collets (illustration Job
16-10,
part 3).
[J Step 12: Carefully release the spring compressor. Remove
the valve spring cap (Job
16-10,
part 7), the spring {part
4)

and spring seat {part 5).
•
Step 13: Withdraw the valve (illustration Job
16-10,

parts 6 and 9) from its guide {part
10)
and remove the valve
stem oil seal {part 11).
Q Step 14: Remove the remaining valves and keep each set
of components together and in the correct order, discarding
the old stem seals.
• Step 15:
Unscrew and
remove the four
threaded bushes
which secure the
pre-combustion
chambers. FIAT use
their tool No.
1850178000 for
this purpose.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! If you have no access to this
tool, you will need to make a simple flat-bladed tool to
locate in the slots provided in the bush. The tool blade
should be 31.5 mm wide by 5 mm thick. B
• Step 16:
Remove
the pre-
combustion
chambers by
tapping them
out with a
small drift.
Q Step 17: Thoroughly clean the cylinder head and compo-
nents with paraffin or an engine cleaning solvent. Take great
care not to gouge the face of the cylinder head. The valves are
best cleaned with a rotary wire brush.
• Step 18: Check the cylinder head for distortion by using
a straight edge along the machined surface, and a feeler
gauge. Any distortion above
0.1
mm indicates the need for
machining.
Q Step 19: Valve guide wear can be checked by rocking the
valve sideways in its guide. The guides should be replaced if
a

maximum movement of 0.35 mm is exceeded (in practice,
scarcely detectable).
• Step 20: Lubricate the valve stems with clean engine oil
then locate them in their respective guides after fitting new
oil

seals onto the tops of the guides. Take great care not to
damage the seals!
^ ^^iSu / * TW°
VfaliSt*?0lS
"'I
f' (y - required for seal fitting
if

you are to avoid damaging
the new
seals.
These are Nos.
1860313000
and

1860313002
respectively.
• They may be available from your FIAT agent on
hire,

but if not it is best to take the cylinder head to the
agent for the seals to be fitted.
Q Step 21: Place the valve spring seat over the guide, then
position the spring, followed by the cap. Compress the spring
enough to allow you to engage the split cotters with the valve
stem.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Use a little grease to keep
them in place. Slowly release the compressor, checking
that the collets are properly located. Tap the ends of the
valve stems to bed them in. B
• Step 22: Always
use new camshaft end-
support gaskets and fit
new seals. (If the bushes
inside the supports show
signs of scoring, replace
the supports.) Carefully
remove the old seal and
drift in the new.
Lubricate the sealing lip
before fitting the
camshaft.