1988 FIAT TEMPRA boot

• Step 2: Remove the bonnet. Disconnect and remove the
battery.
0 Step 3: Drain the oil from the transmission.
0 Step 4: Disconnect the clutch cable or remove the slave
cylinder, if hydraulic, from the top of the gearbox.
• Step 13: Disconnect the
gearchange rods at the gearbox
(arrowed).
O Step 14: Remove the trans-
mission mounting and bracket
assembly.
Job 2. Transmission refitting
(with engine in car).
/ a 5tep1S: • SLjpp°n the
'' £/ gearbox in such a way that
when disconnecting, it can
be withdrawn smoothly and without 'hanging' on the
engine. A trolley jack might do the job nicely.
• Step 16:
Undo the gearbox
to engine fixing
bolts...
• Step 17: ...slide the
box back until it's clear of
the clutch and lower it to
the ground using a
hydraulic stand or trolley
jack.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Refer to PART A: ENGINE, Jobs 8
and 9 in connection with this Job.
• Step 1: Refitting is the reverse of the removal work
carried out in Job 1 but bear in mind the following:
Q Step 2: Centralise the clutch driven plate, if it has been
disturbed. See Job 3.
• Step 3: NON-HYDRAULIC CLUTCHES ONLY. Adjust the
clutch cable. See Job 4
Q Step 6: Raise the front of the car and support securely on

axle stands.
Remove the road wheels and the previously
slackened hub nuts.
Q Step 7: Remove the wheel arch protective shields.
Q Step 8: Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
gearbox. (If digital instrumentation, disconnect the wiring

from
the sender unit.)
Q Step 9: Disconnect and remove the starter motor and

unplug
the reverse light connector and the earth lead from

the
transmission housing.
Q Step 10: Undo the trackrod ends securing nuts and use a
suitable 'splitter' tool to part the balljoints from the steering

arms.
Slacken the drive-shaft inner boot securing clips. Undo

the pinch
bolts fixing the stub axles to the suspension struts,

pull
the stub axles clear and extract the drive-shafts.
0 Step 11: Support the engine at the gearbox end, just

taking
the weight as described in Step 1.
Q Step 12: Remove the central power unit support (a), the
flywheel guard (b) and the exhaust bracket (c).
• Step 5: With

the
car
still
on the
ground, loosen

the nuts
fixing the
constant velocity

joints
to the hubs.
These require an
enormous force

to be
tightened or
released (see

Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures) and they will have been
staked. There is a severe risk of pulling the car off supports if

you
attempt to undo these nuts while the car is raised off the
ground. Slacken the front wheel nuts.
Job 1-14

Job 14. Hydraulic clutch
components.

Later Tipos
and Tempras used a hydraulic clutch in place of

the cable
arrangement used on the early cars. No adjustment

is
possible.
a - clutch fluid reservoir b - master cylinder supply hose c - boot d - master cylinder e - mounting bracket f - cover
a
-
threaded cap b - seals c - master cylinder body
d - slave cylinder body e - bleed screw cap f - bleed screw
Job 14-2
g h i
i k
• Step 1: This is the layout of the hydraulic clutch compo-
nents. Note that the master cylinder supply hose (b) is a low
pressure hose. The method of disconnecting the rigid hose (k)
and the flexible hose (h) is very similar to that for disconnecting
the brake hoses in PART H: BRAKES, Jobs
15
and 16
Removal of the master cylinder or slave cylinder, should
replacement become necessary, can be easily discerned from
the drawing shown here. Note that, if the clevis pin which
holds the master cylinder to the pedal is worn, it should be
replaced. The master cylinder bolts can be reached only after
the cover (f) has been undipped and removed. The slave
cylinder is held to the gearbox casing by the bracket (e) and
must first be disconnected from the clutch arm (I).
• Step 2: These are the internal components of the clutch
master and slave cylinders. Because the clutch components are
not as safely critical as brake components, it is acceptable to
- mounting bracket - vibration damper - rigid hose - clutch operating arm Job 14-1
• Step 9:
Remove the
bearing
retention
cirdip from the

stub axle
(also,
Job 13-1, part
«...
- slave cylinder - flexible hose • Step 10:
...and press out

the old
bearing

{Job
13-1,

part c).
Note

the
inner race
usually breaks

free and
has to

be drifted
off

the hub,
as
shown.
Q Step 11: Clean the stub axle and press in the new
bearing, putting pressure on the outer track only. Refit

the
cirdip.
Q Step 12: Now press the hub into the bearing using a

suitable
tube putting pressure on the inner track.
• Step 13:
Continue the
assembly in the

reverse
order of
dismantling and

see
Chapter 3,

Facts
and Figures

for torque
settings.

Use
new drive-

shaft to
hub nuts

and stake
them in

to the
shaft
groove. New

caliper fixing
bolts must also be used.

Job 10. Fuel tank - removal and
refitting.
Job 11. Hot air hoses/thermo-
valves - general.
SAFETY FIRST!
Job 12. Lambda sensor
(S.P.I, engines) - replacement.
• We recommend that you carry out all of this work
out of
doors.

I
IMPORTANT NOTE:
• Read Chapter 1, Safety First! before carrying out

this
work!
• Plan ahead! Run the fuel in the tank as low as possible
before you start this job.
Q Step 1: Disconnect the battery leads starting with the
earth lead.
• Step 2: Syphon any remaining fuel from the tank and
into a suitable closed container.
Q Step 3: Disconnect the fuel sender wiring and any fuel

hoses
from within the boot (model-dependent
-
see Job 9 and
PARTE: ELECTRICAL AND INSTRUMENTS, Job 14).
• Step 4: Disconnect the filler and breather hoses from the

tank,
working from underneath the car.
a - Lambda sensor b - connector to ECU c - sensor heater power supply Job 12-2
Q Step 5: Support the tank while undoing the strap
securing bolts at the rear of the tank...
Q Step 6: ...and at the front.
Q Step 7: Lower the tank a very small amount at a time,
enough to check whether any hoses remain attached, then
lower it fully to the ground.
Q Step 8: Refit in the reverse order, making sure all connec-

tions are
sound. Reconnect the battery leads.
• Step 1: H INSIDE INFORMATION: The good
operation of the thermostatic valve in the air cleaner
where the heated air pipe from the manifold enters the
air filter) relies on air hoses that are in good condition.
Replace any that are doubtful before suspecting the
valve to be faulty. These valves usually give little trouble
and usually only suffer from sticking, caused by dirt.
Try cleaning the flap and hinge before assuming the
worst! Q
• Step 1: The Lambda sensor
can be found screwed into the
exhaust just behind the point
where the down pipes run into
one (arrowed).
Q Step 2: Trace the wiring
back from the sensor and
disconnect the two plugs,
(b and c).
a - air filter b - injection unit c - inlet manifold d - cool air intake e - heated air intake - from exhaust manifold f
-
thermostatic valve flap g - thermostatic valve
Job 11-1

Job 12. Pressure regulating valve,
non-ABS system - replacement
and adjustment.
• Step 9: Bleed the brakes, see Job
17

139
-8
The pressure regulating valve is also known as the load
proportioning valve.
[G Step 1: Position the car on ramps, over a pit or on a lift,
keeping the weight on the rear wheels.
• Step 2: Remove the handbrake cable from its support
bracket on the fuel tank...
• Step 3: ...and
remove the support
bracket for the rear
exhaust section for better
access.
• Step 4: Undo all the
pipe unions on the
regulating valve using
split ring spanners where
possible, to avoid
damage. Plug the ends
of the pipes and catch
any fluid that drains out.
Unhook the spring
(arrowed) from the
mounting bracket.
Q Step 5: Undo the fixing belts and remove the valve
assembly.
• Step 6: Mount the new unit, remake all hydraulic
connections and connect the spring. Note that, if the valve
does not work properly, it cannot be repaired but must be
replaced.
• Step 7: Place a load of 60 kg with a full fuel tank, or 90
kg with an empty fuel tank, as far forward as possible in the
boot.
• Step 4: Prise
off the sound
proofing plate
stud with a screw-
driver (1, which
cannot be re-
used) and
unscrew the stud
(2). Move the
plate (3) to one
side, to give
access to the
servo retaining
nuts.
• Step 5:
Remove the split

pin
and
disconnect the
servo rod from
the brake pedal.
G Step 6: Move
the sound
proofing plate
sufficiently to
remove the servo
mounting nuts
(three
-
arrowed;
one being
unscrewed by a
socket extension).
G Step 7: From
under the bonnet,
withdraw the
servo from the
bulkhead.
G Step 9: Adjust the nut as
necessary to achieve this
setting measuring through
the aperture in the front
cover, from inside the engine
bay.
G Step 10: Continue re-
assembly in reverse order.
G Step 8:
When refitting the
servo to the
bulkhead and
with the pushrod
(a) connected to
the brake pedal,
the gap between
the piston control
rod adjusting nut
(b) and the master
cylinder mounting
flange should be
between 22.45
and 22.65 mm.
22.45-22.65 mm
• Step 8:
• Loosen the
bracket
retaining screw
(1).
• Apply a
downwards
force to the
bracket eye (2)
of 55 Nm for all
models except
the 1600
automatic
petrol and 1900
turbo diesel which should be 30 Nm.
• Keeping the bracket (3) in position. Tighten the retaining
screw (1).

Job 13. Pressure regulating
valves, ABS system - replacement
and adjustment.
Job 14. RPM sensors, ABS
systems - replacement.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! The RPM sensors align with
the flywheels (which look like toothed rings) and which
rotate with the road wheels. The sensors measure the
vehicle's running speed, acceleration, deceleration and
wheel creep. These signals are sent to the electronic
control unit and allow it to instruct the hydraulic control
unit to vary the brake fluid pressure to each wheel as
necessary to prevent the brakes from locking up. E3
• Step 1: This
is the position of
the front wheel
sensor (a)...
• Step 2: ...and
this is the position
of the rear wheel
sensor (arrowed).
H INSIDE INFORMATION! FIAT advise that no adjust-
ments can be made, so, if the gap is outside these values,
clean and check the condition and the seating of the
sensor and the condition of the flywheel. D
L_l Step 4: To remove the sensor, undo the fixing screw and
withdraw the sensor from its housing, then trace the wire to
the connector and unplug it.
• Step 5: Clean round the housing and fit the new sensor,
ensuring that it is properly seated.
O Step 6: Secure the wire along its route to the connector
and plug in.
• Step 1: Position the car over a pit or on a lift with the
weight still on the wheels. Locate the valves
-
one on each
suspension trailing arm.
• Step 2: Undo
the brake pipe
unions (a) using
(preferably) a split
ring spanner and
plug the ends of
the pipes. Remove
the two upper
securing bolts
shown here
• Step 3: Take out the
lower two bolts and
remove the valve.
• Step 4: Install the
new valve and connect
the brake pipes.
• Step 5: With the car
at its normal weight
including spare wheel
and fuel, add a load of 50
kg to the boot as far
forward as possible.
• Step 6:
• Loosen the
bracket fixing bolt
(1).
• Hang a weight
of 2 kg from the
bracket eye (2).
• Keep the
bracket in this
position while you
tighten and lock
the fixing bolt (1).
Q Step 7: Repeat this adjustment on the other side to
ensure equal braking.
• Step 8: Bleed the brakes. See Job
17

• Step 3:
Check the gap
between the end
of each sensor and the flywheel, at the front (see illustration
Job
14-1,
part b) and at the rear. The correct gap should be:
• 1400/1600 petrol
-
between 0.62 and 1.35 mm, both front
and rear.
• 1900 turbo Diesel
-
between 0.225 and 0.925 mm for the
fronts and between 0.13 and 1.27 mm for the rears.

PART I: BODY AMD INTERIOR
PART 1: Contents
Job 1. Bonnet
-
removal and refitting. Job 8. Tempra boot lid locking mechanism
-
removal and
Job 2. Bonnet locking mechanism
-
replacement and refitting.
adjustment. Job 9. Front bumper and grille
-
removal and refitting.
Job 3. Radiator grille
-
removal and refitting. Job 10. Rear bumper
-
removal and refitting.
Job 4. Tipo/Tempra tailgate
-
removal and refitting. Job 11. Door trim panel
-
removal and refitting.
Job 5. Tipo tailgate locking mechanism
-
removal and Job 12. Door component
-
removal and replacement
refitting. Job 13. Door removal, replacement and adjustment.
Job 6. Tempra estate tailgate locking mechanism
-
removal Job 14. Door mirror
-
replacement.
and refitting. Job 15. Sun roof
-
removal and refitting.
Job 7. Tempra boot lid
-
removal and refitting. Job 16. Front seats
-
removal and refitting.
-Job 17. Rear seats
-
removal and refitting.
Job 1. Bonnet - removal and
refitting.
Job 2. Bonnet locking mechanism
- replacement and adjustment.
• Step 1: Note the bonnet hinges, support and stops.
G Step 2: Use the prop and hold the bonnet open. Outline
the hinge positions on the bonnet with masking tape for
accurate refitment.
G Step 3: Ask an assistant to support the bonnet. Undo the
two hinge fixing bolts. Carefully lift the bonnet clear.
if refitting the bonnet, put a
piece of cloth under each
rear corner to protect the bodywork.
• Step 1: This drawing shows left and right hand drive
layouts. Select which is right for your car.
• Step 2: The two screws (illustration Job 2-3 arrowed)
used to fix the locking pin/safety catch assembly to the bonnet
are also used for fore and aft adjustment. This is best done a
little at a time until smooth operation is achieved.
• Step 3: Height
adjustment (levelling with
the wings) is achieved by
screwing the bump stops
(inset, arrowed) up or
down. Then slacken the
G Step 5: When refitting, tighten the bolts just enough to
grip the hinges, then carefully lower the bonnet to check for
correct alignment all round
-
equal gapping.
When the alignment is satisfactory, tighten the bolts to their
correct torque, See Chapter 3, Facts and Figures
[G Step 4: To remove the lock/striker assembly, separate the
cable eyelet from the operating lever hook, see illustration Job
2-1, parts 13 and 14
1 - lock/striker assembly, front panel 2 - locking pin/safety catch, bonnet 3 - release lever. (Also fitted other side, some R/H drive cars) 4 - cable, L/H drive 5 - cable, R/H drive
and secondary cable, R/H drive 7 - screw 8
-
washer 9 - bolt 10 - bolt
11 - cable clip 12 - cable fixing screw 13 - cable eyelet 14 - operating lever hook Job 2-1
locking nut (hidden
behind the locking pin
spring) and screw the
locking pin up or down
until the bonnet will shut
when dropped from 30 cm height and then have no
movement on the lock. Don't forget to tighten the locknut.

Q Step 7: Remove the sealing ring (illustration Job
5-1,

part 2) from the locking barrel and detach the two retaining
springs. Remove the locking barrel.
Q Step 9: The magnetic locking device (illustration Job
5-1,

part 8) is removed by undoing the two retaining screws.
Q Step 10: Refitting is the reverse of removal.
Job 6. Tempra estate tailgate
locking mechanism - removal
and refitting.
Q Step 1: Remove the trim to expose the mechanism.
G Step 2: The mechanism is a simple lever and rod system
and is dismantled by removing the outer bolt fixings, followed
by the inner lever-end fixings.
Job 7. Tempra boot lid -
removal and refitting.
Q Step 1: These are the boot lid components in exploded
form. Remove the boot interior trim panel and disconnect the
wires serving the door lock motor (a).
G Step 2: Carefully prise out the number plate lights and
disconnect them. Put the cables back inside the double skin.
Q Step 3: Withdraw the cables through the hole by the left
hinge.
L) Step 4: Put some protective rag on the body, under the
sharp corners of the lid. (See illustration Job
7-1,
part b.) Use
masking tape to outline the hinge positions on the lid and
assist in re-alignment.
Q Step 5: Ask an assistant to help support the lid, then
undo the hinge screws, disconnect each hinge assembly (c)
and remove the lid.
Q Step 6: Refit in reverse order.
Job 8. Tempra boot lid locking
mechanism - removal and
refitting.
Q Step 1: Refer to the drawing in Job 7, Step 1.
• Step 2: Remove the interior trim panel for access.
Q Step 3: Unplug the electrical connection from the boot lid
catch. Undo the two securing screws and remove the catch.
Q Step 4: To remove the central locking servo, unplug the
electrical connection, then undo the two mounting screws
and remove the servo.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! To remove the lock, (which
operates the catch referred to in Step 3) you must first
remove the number plate holder. B
Q Step 5: Remove the number plate lights by easing them
out of their mounting holes and disconnect the electrical plugs.
Gl Step 6: Use a hair dryer and, working from inside the
boot, heat the number plate holder perimeter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Your hairdryer might not get hot
enough; or it (or a hot air blower) might get too hot and
damage the paintwork. You are recommended to leave
this part of the job to your FIAT dealer, or to proceed
with enormous care.
• Step 7: Release the four clips and push out the number
plate holder/lock assembly.
• Step 8: Undo the three nuts and remove the lock.
Q Step 9: Carefully remove the old sealant from both
surfaces and clean thoroughly with a suitable solvent.
• Step 10: Mount the new lock on the number plate holder
and apply a suitable silicone sealer approximately 8 mm high
in a continuous seam round the perimeter. Level the sealant if
necessary.
• Step 11: Position the number plate holder in the boot lid
hole.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! This is made easier by pressing
out the retaining clips from inside the boot. The
positioning must be completed within 5 minutes of
applying the sealant. Hold the number plate holder in
position with masking tape on the outside and leave to
set for at least 3 hours without any disturbance. D
Q Step 12: Now the remaining parts can be fitted in reverse
order.

Job 9. Front bumper -
removal and refitting.
• Step 1C:
The Tempra
saloon has
slightly
different fixing
positions.
• Step
Open the
Q Step 3: Remove the rear wheel arch liners by undoing the
fixing bolts and buttons.
• Step 4: Undo the bumper fixing bolts (see illustrations
Steps 1A, !B and 1Q and withdraw the bumper from the car.
• Step 5: Refit in the reverse order, but make sure that the
side fixing blocks on the body engage properly with the
guides on the bumper. The bumper slides on/slides off.
Job 11. Door trim panels -
removal and refitting.
IMPORTANT NOTE 1: All of the illustration references in
this job relate to illustration Job 11-A1 and illustration
Job 11-B1.
IMPORTANT NOTE 2: Identify the trim panels fitted to
your car. One piece trim panels (Type A) are the early
type; two piece trim panels (Type B) are the later type.
TYPE A: EARLY TRIM PANELS
Job lO. Rear bumper - removal
and refitting.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! The method of removal is the
same for Tipo and Tempra. Some models with higher
trim levels have decorative bumper inserts. B
• Step 1:
Remove the
grille. See Job
3.
• Step 2:
Remove the
four lower
fixing bolts
(a
x 2
and
b
x
2)...
• Step 3:
...and the
buttons (illustration Job
9-2,
part e) that fix the bumper to
the wheel arch liner.
Q Step 4: Undo the two top fixing bolts (illustration Job
9-

2, parts c) and remove the bumper by sliding/pulling it
forwards.
Q Step 5: Refit in the reverse order, but make sure that the
side fixing blocks (illustrations Job
9-1,
part d) on the body
engages properly with the guides (Job
9-1,
part e) on the
bumper.
• Step 1A:
Q INSIDE
INFOR-
MATION! The
method of
removal and
refitting is the
same for all
variants. The Tempra estate has a three section bumper
which once removed, can be split to replace individual
parts as shown in this drawing. B
• Step 1B:
Some models,
such as this
Tipo, with
higher trim
levels have
decorative
bumper inserts
but otherwise,
removal is the
same.
FRONT DOORS
• Step A1: Remove the
interior door handle trim (11) by
removing the outer screw (12).
• Step A2: Undo the inner
fixing screw (see illustration Job

11-A1,
part 8) and withdraw
the handle far enough to....
• Step A3: .... unplug the
window's electrical connector, where fitted.
B INSIDE INFORMATION! If the window or regulator is
being removed, lower the glass before undoing the plug
Where manually operated windows are fitted, remove
the window regulator handle by hooking out the horse
shoe type retaining clip (arrowed) from behind it. B
2:
tailgate or boot lid and remove the upper fixing bolts.
MMBBMHHi 146