1988 FIAT TEMPRA ECO mode

Please read the whole of the Introduction to this Chapter before carrying out any work on your car.
CHAPTER 5
SERVICING YOUR CAR
Everyone wants to own a
car that starts first time,
runs reliably and lasts
longer than the average.
And it's all a question of
thorough maintenance!
If you follow the FIAT-
approved Service Jobs
listed here you can almost
guarantee that your car will
still be going strong when
others have fallen by the
wayside
-
or the hard
shoulder.
How To Use This Chapter
This chapter contains all of the servicing Jobs recommended
by FIAT for all models of Tipo and Tempra imported into the
UK except cars with 1.8 and 2 litre DOHC petrol engines. To
use the schedule, note that:
• Each letter code tells you the Service Interval at which you
should carry out each Service Job.
• Each Service Job has a Job number.
• Look up the number in the relevant part of this chapter and
you will see a complete explanation of the work.
SAFETY FIRST!
SAFETY FIRST information must always be read with
care and always taken seriously.
• In addition, please read the whole of Chapter 1,
Safety First! before carrying out any work on your
car.
• There are many hazards associated with working on
a car but all of them can be avoided by adhering
strictly to the safety rules.
• Don't skimp on safety!
SERVICE INTERVALS - INTRODUCTION
• We think it is very
important to keep things as
straightforward as possible.
And where you see this heading, you'll know there's
an extra tip to help 'make it easy' for you!
Over the years, FIAT, in common with all other manufacturers,
have lengthened their recommended service intervals. For
instance, oil changes on later FIATs don't have to take place as
often as earlier ones. In the main, these changes have not
come about because of specific modifications to the cars
themselves. They have come about because of a number of
factors: Lubricants, spark plugs, seals and other components
have improved and mechanical parts are better made due to
improved materials and production techniques.
As a result, you are recommended to follow the maker's
recommendations on how often to service your car. If your car
lies right on a change-over point, the choice of which
schedule to follow will be yours, unless the specific advice
given here recommends otherwise
-
as we said earlier, most
change points came about for a number of reasons, so it
generally isn't necessary to identify with pinpoint accuracy
which bracket your car belongs to, if it isn't obvious.
32

TOPPING-UP
1D. On petrol
engines the oil
filler cap is pull-
out rectangular
plug at the end
of the rocker
On diesel engines, the round cap is near the same end of the
cam cover. This cap is removed by turning a quarter-turn to
the left and lifting.
DIESEL ENGINES
Top-up, if necessary using a 50:50 mixture of distilled water
and Paraflu anti-freeze.
cover adjacent to
the distributor.
Note that on some models, the cap is circular.
1E. Pour in the
fresh oil carefully,
preferably using a
funnel. A clean
plastic bottle with
the bottom cut
off is ideal!
IMPORTANT NOTE: Regularly check the ground over
which the car has been parked for traces of oil or other
fluid leaks. If a leak is found, don't drive the car without
first finding out where the leak is from, and ideally,
repairing it.
G Job 2. Cooling system
-
check level.
SAFETY FIRST!
• ALWAYS check the coolant level with the engine
COLD
• If the engine is hot there is a real danger of

scalding
from boiling coolant gushing from the tank
when the cap is removed.
Never allow the coolant level to fall below the MIN (or UVELLO
A FREDDO) mark on the expansion tank. It is vitally important
that all engines have the correct proportion of anti-freeze in
the coolant all year round to prevent corrosion. A 50% mix of
distilled water with FL Paraflu coolant gives the best
protection.
• Job 3. Brake/dutch fluid
-
check level/s.
IMPORTANT NOTE: On later models, a hydraulic clutch is
fitted. The same fluid reservoir serves both brakes and
clutch.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If brake fluid should come into contact with skin or
eyes, rinse immediately with plenty of water.
• It is acceptable for the brake fluid level to fall
slightly during normal use, but if it falls significantly
below the MIN mark on the reservoir there is probably
a leak or internal seal failure. Stop using the car until
the problem has been put right.
• If you let dirt get into the hydraulic system it can
cause brake failure. Wipe the filler cap clean before
removing it.
• You should only ever use new brake fluid from a
sealed container
-
FIAT recommend FL Tutela Top 4
brake fluid. Old fluid absorbs moisture and this could
cause the brakes to fail when carrying out an
emergency stop or during another heavy use of the
brakes
-
just when you need them most and are least
able to do anything about it, in fact!
On all models the brake fluid reservoir is positioned above the
master cylinder either in the rear right-hand or rear left-hand
corner of the engine bay, according to model. The reservoir is
semi-transparent so the level can be checked without
disturbing the cap.
PETROL ENGINES
2A. The coolant should be just
below the remote header tank
filler neck
-
about 25 mm
(1
in)
above the MIN (or UVELLO A
FREDDO) mark on the tank
(arrowed). This is the header tank
(screw-on cap, removed), on the
passenger-side of the engine bay,

at
the very front of the engine
bay.
3. If brake fluid topping-up is
required, turn the cap without
allowing the centre section to
turn. This section, with two wires
attached, swivels in the cap.
Place the cap and float to one
side
-
take care not to drip fluid
from the float
-
and top up with
FL Tutela Top 4 brake and
clutch fluid.
Check that the brake fluid-level
warning-light is operating. Turn
the ignition key to the MAR
I
i 3
»35
2B. Check the
level as described

in
Job 2A.
Unscrew the
coolant filler cap
anti-clockwise
and remove it.
DON'T confuse
the coolant cap
with the smaller
windscreen washer fluid cap, to one side of it.

(ignition-ON) position and press down the button between the
two terminals on the reservoir cap
-
when fitted. The warning
light on the dash should light up. When no button is fitted,
unscrew and raise the cap (ignition key ON) to check the
warning light. Check the bulb, check the fuse, or have your
FIAT dealer repair the warning system, if faulty.
• Job 4. Battery
-
check electrolyte level.
FACT FILE: DISCONNECTING THE
BATTERY
• Many vehicles depend on a constant
power supply from the battery; with
these you find yourself in trouble if you
simply disconnect the battery. You
might find the car alarm goes off, or that the engine
management system forgets all it ever 'learned', making
the car feel odd to drive until it has re-programmed
itself. You might also find that the radio refuses to
operate until its correct security code is keyed into it.
• On cars with engine management systems and/or
coded radios, you must ensure the car has a constant
electrical supply, even with the battery removed. You
will need a separate 12 volt battery; put a self-tapping
screw into the positive lead near the battery terminal
before disconnecting it, and put a positive connection
to your other battery via this screw.
• Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL to wrap insulation tape
around the connection so that no short is caused. The
negative terminal on the other battery must be
connected to the car's bodywork.
SAFETY FIRST!
• The gas given off by a battery is highly explosive.
Never smoke, use a naked flame or allow a spark in
the battery compartment.
• Never disconnect the battery (it can cause sparking)
with the battery caps removed.
• All vehicle batteries contain sulphuric acid. If the
acid comes into contact with the skin or eyes, wash
immediately with copious amounts of cold water and
seek medjcal advice.
• Do not check the battery levels within half an hour
of the battery being charged with a separate battery
charger because the addition of fresh water could
cause electrolyte to flood out.
4. Check the electrolyte
level in the battery. MAX
and MIN lines (arrowed)
are moulded into the
translucent battery
casing. In the case of
non-FIAT-supplied
batteries, the cell caps or
strip (a) may need to be
removed to see the level.
Original FIAT batteries are of the 'maintenance-free' type and
usually do not need topping-up. However, if necessary, top up
after prising off the cell sealing strip with a screwdriver. Top-
up each cell ONLY with distilled or de-ionised water.
• Job 5. Screen/headlight washer fluid
check level.
5A. Top up with a mixture of
water and screen-wash
additive, mixed according to
the instructions on the
container. FIAT recommend
Arexons DP1. The reservoir
for front screen, rear screen
and headlights (as appro-
priate) is situated in the engine
bay: adjacent to the left-hand
strut, behind the battery...
5B. ...and behind the
coolant expansion
tank on diesel
models, as illustrated
here.
• Job 6. Tyres
-
check pressures and condition
(road wheels).
/
6A. Check the tyre
pressures using a
reliable and accurate
gauge. Note that the
recommended
pressures (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures) are given for ^^
iH^KKSEI ^ "'

COLD tyres. Tyres
warm up as the car is used
-
and warm tyres give a false (high)
reading. You should also check for wear or damage at the
same time.
SAFETY FIRST!
• If a tyre is worn more on one side than another,
consult your FIAT dealer or a tyre specialist. It probably
means the tracking needs re-setting, though it could
indicate suspension damage, so have it checked.
• If a tyre is worn more in the centre or on the edges,
this indicates incorrect tyre pressures.
• Incorrectly inflated tyres wear rapidly, can give
dangerous handling, and can worsen fuel
consumption.
Every three months,
raise each wheel off
the ground and turn it
slowly between your
36
6B. Every few weeks, examine the tyre treads for wear using a
tread-depth gauge. This will help you keep safe and on the
right side of the law!
Check treads visually
every time you check
the pressures.

• Whenever a light fails to
work, check its fuse before
replacing the bulb.
• A blown bulb often causes a fuse to 'go' in
sympathy.
hands, looking and feeling for any bulges, tears or splits in the
tyre walls, especially the inner sidewalls. (See Job 59 for spare
tyre checks.)
H INSIDE INFORMATION: In time, rubber deteriorates,
increasing the risk of a blow-out. Keep your eye on the
sidewalls of older tyres. If you see any cracking, splits or
other damage scrap the tyre. If you're not sure, consult
your FIAT dealer or tyre specialist. Q
_) Job 7. Check lights/change bulbs.
7A. Pull off the
headlight multi-
plug (A) and peel
the rubber cover
(B) from the back
of the headlight.
7B. Unhook the
bulb securing
spring (C) from the
retention clip by
squeezing inwards
(arrowed) and
withdraw the bulb
(D).
Without touching the bulb glass, fit the new bulb. A locating
tag ensures it only goes in in the correct position. Refit and
reconnect in the reverse order.
HEADLIGHTS
IMPORTANT NOTE: On Diesel models with the air filter
mounted behind the right-hand headlight unit, you will
first have to remove the large hose, unscrew the clamp
nut and take off the air filter assembly. See Job 31. On
later models, there is sometimes an air intake silencer in
the same place.
7F. Slide the unit towards the front of the car, then pull out
from the panel. Turn the bulbholder (A) anti-clockwise,
remove it, and pull out the press-fit 12V/5W bulb.
INDICATOR SIDE REPEATERS
-
ROUND TYPE
holder is pushed in slightly, turned anti-clockwise and
removed. The bulb (B) is a push-fit within it.
FRONT DIRECTION INDICATORS
-
TURBO DIESEL
MODELS
7D. Remove the
lens (B) by
inserting a screw-
driver as shown
and pressing down
the tab (A). You
can easily remove
the bulbs with the
lens removed.
FRONT DIRECTION INDICATORS
-
ALL OTHER
MODELS
7E. From inside the
engine bay, turn
the bulbholder
slightly, anti-
clockwise, and pull
out. Remove the
bulb (B) and press
in a new one. Push
in and twist
clockwise.
INDICATOR SIDE REPEATERS
-
RECTANGULAR TYPE
CAS / * touc^ a halogen
• headlight (or driving light)
bulb with bare fingers you

will
shorten its life, so handle with a piece of
tissue

paper. If the bulb is touched, wipe it carefully with
methylated spirit.
FRONT SIDE
LIGHTS

7C.
The side light
bulb holder is
under the main
headlight bulb.
The bayonet-type
7G. Twist the lens (A) anti-clockwise and remove it. The push-
in bulb can be pulled out and replaced.

FACT FILE: FUSES contd. 7h. CERTAIN TIPO MODELS: Other
fuses are i) a set of three fuses (15A, 30A
and 40A) protecting the air conditioning,
when fitted, located in the engine bay,
near the horns (A). Press in the two sides
(arrowed) to remove the cover.
And ii) there is a 60A
fuse, located near the
fuse box, protecting
the fan on Diesel
vehicles.
7i. On latest vehicles,
there are two 10A
fuses (a) protecting
the electric petrol
pump and the
Lambda sensor
preheater. Remove
the screws (arrowed)
and the cover.
7g. TEMPRAS WITH
AIR CONDITIONING
30A The Air conditioning
system fuse is housed on
a bracket on the engine
compartment bulkhead.
The following two fuses
are located under the
front crossmember near
the right headlight.
3A High-speed radiator fan relay.
7.5A Electromagnetic air conditioner compressor clutch.
The relays housed near the fuses are part of the air
conditioner circuit.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Replace the sealed cover carefully
after changing a fuse. Ensure the gasket is correctly
positioned and the screws are fully tightened.
PART B: ENGIIME AND COOLING SYSTEM
Q Job 8. Change engine oil and filter.
SAFETY FIRST!
• Refer to the section on ENGINE OILS and RAISING

THE
CAR SAFELY in Chapter f, Safety First! before

carrying
out this work.
• You must wear plastic gloves when changing the oil.

Used
engine oil can severely irritate the skin and
is
carcinogenic.
Used diesel engine oil is an even greater

health
hazard.
•
Oil
drain plugs are often over-tightened, so take

care
that the spanner does not slip.

Take
care that the effort needed to undo the drain

plug
doesn't tip the car off its supports
-
remember to

use
wheel
chocks!

rtj&^si ' # °nly dram theu 0,7 fr°m a ff (y warm engine
-
but not
so

hot that the oil can scald!
• Allow the oil to drain for at least ten minutes before
replacing the sump plug.
• You can use this time by renewing the oil filter.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The plug is a taper-fit and can
become very tight, necessitating the use of a long drive-
bar for its removal.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: On side-mounted drain holes,
as the oil empties, the angle of 'spurt' will change, so be
prepared to move the container. E3

8A. The
sump drain

plug is on
the
under-side of the

sump on
petrol
engines, and on the

side
of the sump
(timing belt end of
engine) on the

diesel.
The plug has

a
recessed
hexagonal head and you will need either a sump plug
spanner, a large Allen key, or a 'Hex' headed socket fitted to a

socket
wrench.
8B. Once the initial
tightness of the
plug has been
released, unscrew
the last few turns
by hand, holding
the plug in place
until the threads
have cleared, then
withdrawing it
smartly to allow oil to flow into the receptacle beneath.
expert22
8C. On all engines,
including diesel, the
oil filter is mounted
low on the front of
the engine block,
towards the timing
belt. Use a strap or
chain wrench to
unscrew the old
filter. Note that
there may be a lot of oil spilt as the filter seal is broken, so
keep the drip tray beneath it.
/yifl http://rutracker.org

8D. To prevent the rubber sealing
ring on the new filter from
buckling or twisting out of shape
while tightening, smear it with
clean oil.
8E. Screw the new filter onto the
stub by hand. When the rubber
sealing ring contacts its seat,
continue to turn the
filter a further 3/4
of a turn, by hand
only. Over-tight-
ening the filter
makes it difficult to
remove at the next
oil change and can
buckle the seal,
causing a leak.
E3 INSIDE INFORMATION: It isn't necessary to use
excessive force when refitting the sump plug. Simply grip
the spanner (no need for an extension, now!) so that the
thumb rests on the spanner head, limiting the amount of
leverage that can be applied. Use firm pressure only.
Before refitting the plug, wipe around the drain hole
with a piece of clean cloth to remove any dirt. II
8F. Pour in the correct quantity of
Selenia engine oil (see Chapter
3, Facts and Figures) and check
the level against the dipstick.
Note that the empty oil filter will
cause the level to drop slightly
when the engine is started and
the oil flows into it. Before using
the car, run the engine for two
minutes, turn off, leave to stand
for a few minutes and then
recheck and correct the oil level.
• Job 9. Check crankcase ventilation.
10B. H INSIDE
INFORMATION: If
the gasket sticks
-

which it
frequently does -
DON'T lever the
Q Job 10. Check/adjust valve clearances.
The valve gear clearances need to be checked at the appro-
priate intervals, when the engine is cold.
ALL PETROL AND DIESEL ENGINES
10A. Remove the
air cleaner (where
necessary)
-
see Job
30 then remove the
bolts holding the
camshaft cover in
place. This is the
petrol engine with
air filter removed...
cover or your
could or you could
easily damage it.
Use a spatula to push through the soft joint until the
gasket/cover comes free. D
10C. E3 INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The oil level inside
the housing is
above the level of
the bottom of the
cover plate on
these engines.
Try: i) raising the
front of the car as
high as safely possible, so that oil drains out of the back
of the housing; ii) stuffing cloths beneath the opening
and have more ready, for mopping up; iii) being ready to
clean off the front of the engine with degreaser, when
the job is finished. D
10D. The valve
clearance is
measured directly
beneath the cam
and must be
checked when the
high point of the
cam (arrowed) is
pointing directly
upwards and away
9. Check the
condition of the
breather hose from
the valve cover or
cam cover to the air
cleaner. If the pipe
has become
blocked or
damaged, replace
it, transferring the
flame trap from inside the old pipe to the new one. On some
models, you will have to remove the air filter housing to get at
the crankcase ventilation pipe beneath. Note this type of
spring clip
-
use pliers to slacken-off when removing or re-
fitting.
Try different feeler gauge thicknesses until you find one that's
a tight sliding fit between cam and follower. Make a written
note of each clearance starting with number
1
at the timing
belt end of the engine.
from the cam follower.

14C. Also open
the drain plug or
tap (B) at the
centre of the rear
flank of the
engine block on
both petrol and
diesel engines. Drain the coolant into a container. On models
with a separate expansion tank, detach the hose from the
expansion tank and drain the tank.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: From time to time it's a good
idea to flush the cooling system. With the bottom hose
re-connected, disconnect and remove the top hose from
the radiator. Insert the end of a garden hose first into
the hose (packing the gap with a rag) and then the
radiator inlet, flushing the system in both directions until
the water comes out clear. Q
IMPORTANT NOTE: Flush first with the heater control
turned OFF until the engine and radiator are clear, so
that you don't flush sediment into the heater. Then with
the heater turned ON, flush the heater system out.
14D. To prevent air-locks
forming in the cooling
system as it is refilled (all
hoses and the drain plug
reconnected, of course!),
most models have two
air-bleed screws strategi-
cally positioned in the
system. These should be
opened before refilling.
The first (B or C) is
located on the right-
hand side of the radiator
(type dependant on
version)...
PART C: TRANSMISSION
• Job 15. Check manual gearbox oil level.
The combined oil level and filler plug is on the forward-facing
side of the gearbox. Check the level with the car on level
ground.
15. From beneath the car, wipe
around the filler plug with a rag
to prevent dirt contamination.
Remove the plug
-
using a 10
mm Allen key
-
and top-up if
necessary, using the specified
Tutela transmission oil (see
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures), until oil just dribbles
from the filler hole. Refit the
plug.
14E.... and the
second (D)
-

when fitted
-
is
found on the
heater hose near
the top of the
engine. Only
undo the screws
by two or three
turns. Retighten both screws when air-free coolant emerges.
This is the petrol engine...
14F. ...and this
the diesel engine
location.
H INSIDE
INFORMATION:
It seems that
latest Tipos and
Tempras were
built without some or all bleed screws. Ryauto
recommend removing the highest point of the top hose,
refilling with coolant, while an assistant refits the hose
smartly, losing as little coolant as possible. D
Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of clean water
and fresh Paraflu anti-freeze. Tighten the bleed screws (or
hose) when coolant, and not air, comes out steadily. Run the
engine for a few minutes and bleed again.
IMPORTANT NOTE: It is highly likely that more air will be
dislodged when you first use the car. Keep your eye on
the coolant level (See Job 2)
-
perhaps carrying some
50/50 diluted coolant with you for the first few journeys.
• Job 16. Change manual gearbox oil.
16. The combined
gearbox and final
drive oil should be
drained at the time
shown in the
Service Interval
Chart. Do so only
after the car has
been used and the
gearbox oil is warm, so that it flows well. Remove the drain
plug (on the end-face of the gearbox, accessed from beneath
the car
-
not much room to get a spanner in!) and drain the
oil into a container. (See page 8 on oil disposal.) Leave for 10
minutes to drain completely, and refill with the correct grade
of Tutela transmission oil through the level/filler plug, as
described in Job 15.

26B. If adjustment is
necessary, slacken the
tensioning nut (A) and
the alternator pivot (B),
on all models. (These
are two typical
layouts.)
Use a length of wood
to pivot the alternator
away from the engine
block but take great
care not to damage the
alternator casing.
Tighten the nuts/bolts
when the tension is correct.
RIBBED BELTS ONLY
If your vehicle is fitted with a ribbed belt, pivot the alternator
as described above and tighten it when you can just twist the
belt by 1/4 turn in the middle of its longest run.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
• Belt tension should only be adjusted when the engine
is cold.
• After adjustment, run the engine for 15 to 30 seconds,
to allow the belt to bed-in, then check again.
• Experience mechanics claim that belts often go slack
when the engine heats up, producing belt squeal.
• If this happens on your vehicle, adjust the belt again
when the engine is hot. Wear industrial leather gloves
and long-sleeved overalls and take very great care not to
burn yourself on the hot engine or exhaust.
If there is an auxiliary unit, such as an air conditioning pump,
driven by a separate drive belt, examine and adjust it as
described here.
Q Job 27. Check electric fan operation.
Drive the car until it is at normal operating temperature. Park
outdoors and, with the gearbox in neutral (or 'P' in the case of
an automatic) leave the engine running. At just above normal
temperature the electric cooling fan should come on, and
then go off again when the temperature drops. Refer to your
temperature gauge, if fitted. If the fan doesn't behave, check
the thermo-switch on the radiator, along with all connections
and wires in its circuit with the fan motor. See Job 13 and
Chapter
6,
Repairs and Replacements.
• Job 28. Run diagnostic ignition/injection test.
DIAGNOSTIC TEST
28A. Have your FIAT dealer
carry out a diagnostic test,
plugging his tester into the
diagnostic socket tucked away
at the front of the passenger-
side footwell.
EMISSIONS TESTS
Vehicles fitted with the Mono-Jetronic fuel injection system
are not fitted with adjustment screws. The system is self-
regulating. However, specified annual checks carried out with
an exhaust gas analyser will provide essential information on
the condition of the injection/ignition system, the catalytic
converter and the engine itself.
28B. The checks are carried out twice: once with the test
sensor at least 300 mm into the end section of the exhaust
pipe (a). (If the shape of the end section of the exhaust pipe is
such that the sensor cannot be completely introduced, a
special extension pipe must be added ensuring that the joint
with the car's tail-pipe is sealed.); the second after undoing
the cap or nut on the exhaust pipe upstream of the catalytic
converter (b).
The following table shows the test limits for carbon monoxide,
unburned hydrocarbons (in parts per million) and carbon
dioxide:
CO (%) HC (p.p.m.) C02(%)
Upstream of the catalyzer (a) 0,4 -h 1 500/600* >12
Downstream of the catalyzer (b)
=£
0,35 =s 90 >13
* FIAT's figures vary.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The engine must be at its normal
operating temperature and normal tick-over speed.
• if the percentage concentration of CO upstream of the
catalytic converter is not within the limits in the table,
check:
• the Lambda sensor
-
see Job 37.
• air penetration around the Lambda sensor housing.
• faults in the ignition or injection systems. (First try
renewing the spark plugs, distributor cap and HT leads.)
If, at the same time, the concentration of hydrocarbons
is not less than 500/600 parts per million (FIAT'S figures
vary), check:
• the ignition timing (see Job 25).
• the valve clearances (see Job 9).
• the valve gear timing (see Job 12).
• the engine compression. (You will need to remove the
spark plugs, fit a compresson tester to each plug
aperture in turn and crank the engine. See the FACT FILE
on page 51.)