1985 FORD GRANADA torque

15Bleed the brake hydraulic system and
adjust the handbrake on completion.
Models from 1987
16From 1987, the tab washer which secures
the guide plate centre bolt on each side has
been deleted. A self-locking bolt and plain
washer are used instead.
17The new bolt and washer should be fitted
to earlier models if the old bolt has been
removed for any reason. The tab washer
should be discarded.
18The tightening torque for the new bolt
remains the same as that given for the original.
1Remove the wheel trim. Apply the
handbrake and chock the front wheels.
2Slacken the driveshaft stub axle. This nut is
very tight. The left-hand nut has aleft-hand
thread, therefore it is undone clockwise.
3Remove the brake disc.
4Remove the driveshaft stub axle.
5Remove the four bolts which secure the
hub. Pull the hub off the driveshaft stub,
leaving the disc splash shield loose.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Carry out the final tightening of the driveshaft
stub nut with the wheels on the ground.
1Remove the rear hub as described in the
previous Section (see illustration).
2Prise out both oil seals from the hub.
Recover the bearing races.
3Drive the bearing tracks out of the hub with
a hammer and a blunt drift.4Clean grease and debris from the hub and
clean up any burrs or nicks.
5Fit the new bearing tracks, pressing them in
squarely with the help of a piece of pipe or
tube.
6Thoroughly grease the bearing races and
pack the lips of the oil seals with grease.
7Fit the races and the oil seals, lips inwards.
Seat the oil seals with a mallet and the pipe or
tube.
8Refit the rear hub.
1This procedure is only specified by the
manufacturers as applying to the rear wheels,
but there is no reason to believe that it will not
work on the front.
2Remove the rear wheel, brake caliper and
brake disc.
3Drive the wheel stud out of the hub flange. 4Insert the new stud from the inboard side of
the flange. Engage the splines by hand
pressure, then draw the stud into place with a
wheel nut and progressively thicker spacers
(see illustration).
5Refit the brake disc, caliper and wheel.
1Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
2Unbolt the driveshaft outboard flange from
the stub. It is secured by six Torx screws.
3Disconnect the anti-roll bar from the link rod
by prising it free. On models with ride height
control, also disconnect the height sensor
from the anti-roll bar link rod.
4Free the brake pipe and flexible hose from
the brackets next to the spring. If it is the left-
hand spring which is being removed, also
unbolt the brake pipe T-piece from the floor.
5Raise a jack under the rear suspension
lower arm to load the spring.
6Unbolt the shock absorber from the lower
arm.
27Rear spring - removal and
refitting
26Wheel stud - renewal
25Rear wheel bearings -
renewal
24Rear hub - removal and
refitting
Steering and suspension 11•11
11
25.1 Rear hub components
A Outer oil seal
B Outer bearing
C HubD Inner bearing
E Inner oil seal26.4 Fitting a new wheel stud using a nut
and spacer
23.10b Rear suspension components
1 Lower arm outer bush
2 Lower arm
3 Lower arm inner bush
4 Final drive rear mounting
5 Buffer
6 Spring seat
7 Crossmember
8 Insulator
9 Guide plate
procarmanuals.com

7Unbolt the guide plate from the body on the
side concerned.
8Carefully lower the jack until the spring is no
longer under tension. Remove the spring and
the rubber buffer.
9Refit by reversing the removal operations,
tightening all fastenings to the specified torque
when known.
Note: Ford tool No 15-014, or locally made
equivalent, will be required for this job.
1Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
2Flatten the lockwasher which secures the
guide plate centre bolt. Remove the centre
bolt and the two bolts which hold the guide
plate to the floor; remove the guide plate.
3Wedge a piece of wood between the
crossmember and the floor.
4Draw the insulator out with the special tool
(see illustration).
5Smear the new insulator with glycerine or
liquid soap, then press it in as follows.
6Use the special tool spindle or other long
M12 bolt. Screw a nut up to the bolt head,
then fit a plain washer and the insulator onto
the bolt. Pass the bolt through the hole in the
crossmember and screw it into the floor, then
press the insulator home by winding the nut
and washer up the bolt.
7Remove the installation tool and the wood.
8Refit the guide plate, tightening the bolts to
the specified torque. Secure the centre bolt
with the lockwasher.
9Lower the vehicle.
1Remove the rear hub.
2Disconnect both rear brake flexible hoses
from the brake pipes. Free the brake pipes
from the brackets on the lower arms.
3Unclip the handbrake cable from the lower
arm.
4Remove the rear spring.
5Remove the lower arm-to-crossmember
bolts. Withdraw the lower arm.6Renew the rubber bushes if wished, using
lengths of tube or sockets and a vice, or large
nuts and bolts. Lubricate the new bushes with
glycerine or liquid soap.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations,
tightening the lower arm-to-crossmember
bolts with the weight of the vehicle back on its
wheels. Bleed the brake hydraulic system on
completion.
1Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
2Separate the anti-roll bar from the link rods
on each side by prising them free (see
illustration).
3Unbolt the two anti-roll bar brackets.
Remove the bar, brackets and bushes (see
illustration).
4Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the bracket bolts to the specified
torque.
1Working inside the vehicle, remove the
luggage area side trim to gain access to the
shock absorber top mounting.
2Raise and support the rear of the vehicle.
Raise a jack under the rear suspension lower
arm to take the load off the shock absorber.3On models with ride height control,
disconnect the air line from the shock
absorber.
4Unbolt the shock absorber top mounting
(see illustration).
5Unbolt the shock absorber lower mounting
(see illustration). Pull the shock absorber out
of the lower mounting bracket and remove it.
6Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the shock absorber mountings to the
specified torque. On models with ride height
control, use new O-rings on the air line union.
The ride height control system is an optional
extra, designed to keep the rear suspension
height constant regardless of vehicle load.
This is obviously useful if heavy loads are often
carried, or if the vehicle is used for towing.
The main components of the system are a
height sensor, a compressor and two special
rear shock absorbers. The compressor
supplies air to the shock absorbers, so
“pumping up” the rear suspension, when so
commanded by the height sensor. Other
components include the connecting pipes,
electrical wiring and a compressor relay. The
relay is mounted behind the glovebox.
Variations in vehicle height are not
recognised by the system for approximately
20 seconds, in order to prevent responses to
temporary changes such as those induced by
32Ride height control system -
general information
31Rear shock absorber -
removal and refitting
30Rear anti-roll bar - removal
and refitting
29Rear suspension lower arm -
removal and refitting
28Rear crossmember insulator
- removal and refitting
11•12Steering and suspension
28.4 Drawing out an insulator with the
special tool
31.4 Undoing a rear shock absorber top
mounting31.5 Undoing a rear shock absorber lower
mounting
30.2 Rear anti-roll bar link rod30.3 A rear anti-roll bar bracket - bolt
arrowed
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 12
Bodywork and fittings
Bonnet - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Bonnet insulation panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
Boot lid lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Bumper mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
Door exterior handle - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Door interior trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Door latch assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Door lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Door striker plate - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Door weatherstrip - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
Door window frame mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .31
Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Door window regulator mechanism - removal and refitting . . . . . . .24
Exterior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
Facia panels and trim - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Front bumper - height adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Front seat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Front seat air cushion - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Front seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Fuel filler lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Headlining - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Interior mirror - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Motifs and emblems - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Overhead console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Rear parcel shelf - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
Rear quarter window moulding - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . .32
Rear seat belts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Rear seat components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Seat belts - care and maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Side mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Sliding roof - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Tailgate latch assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Tailgate lock barrel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Tailgate strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Tailgate window mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Windscreen and fixed glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Windscreen mouldings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Torque wrench settingsNm lbf ft
Front seat belt buckle to seat frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 to 64 38 to 47
Seat belt retractor bolts (front and rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 33
Other seat belt anchorages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 45 18 to 33
Rear seat back hinge to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 25 16 to 18
Rear seat back latch striker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 to 60 30 to 44
Front seat retaining bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Front seat frame-to-slide bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 to 32 18 to 24
Rear bumper mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 16
Front bumper adjuster lockbolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 16
12•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
12
The bodyshell and floorpan are of pressed
steel, and form an integral part of the vehicle’s
structure. Various reinforcing and mounting
components beneath the floorpan are made of
HSLA (High Strength Low Alloy) and REPHOS
(rephosphorised) steels, which have superiorstrength-to-weight characteristics when
compared with conventional steels.
Extensive use is made of plastic for
peripheral components such as the radiator
grille, bumpers and wheel trims, and for much
of the interior trim.
Interior fittings are to the high standard
expected in a vehicle of this class, with even
the basic level models well equipped. A wide
range of options is available, including air
conditioning and leather upholstery.The general condition of a vehicle’s
bodywork is the one thing that significantly
affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but
needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after
minor damage, can lead quickly to further
deterioration and costly repair bills. It is
2 Maintenance - bodywork and
underframe1 General information
procarmanuals.com

19Slacken and remove the two switch panel
retaining screws then carefully slide the panel
up over the handbrake lever until the switch
wiring connectors can be accessed (see
illustrations). Disconnect the wiring
connectors from all the switches, then release
the loom from any relevant retaining clips and
manoeuvre the switch panel off the handbrake
lever.
20Slacken and remove the seven centre
console retaining screws (two at the front, one
on each side and three at the rear) then lift up
the console and disconnect the wiring
connector from the rear cigarette lighter.
Remove the console assembly from the car
(see illustrations).
21Refitting is a reverse of the removal
procedure.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the interior light by carefully prising
it out of the console and disconnecting it.
3Remove the sliding roof control handle or
switches (as applicable).
4Remove the two retaining screws from the
front of the console. Pull the front of the
console down and then slide the assembly
rearwards to release it from the two clips (see
illustrations). These clips may be quite tight.
Disconnect the clock.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.1Move the seat rearwards as far as possible,
then remove the two front retaining bolts (see
illustration).
2Disconnect the assist spring from under the
driver’s seat. (Moving the seat forwards will
reduce the tension on this spring, but also
makes it harder to get at.)
3When applicable, disconnect the seat
heating and/or adjustment motor multi-plugs.
4Move the seat fully forwards and remove the
three rear retaining bolts. These bolts are
under plastic covers (see illustrations).
5Lift out the seat, complete with adjustment
mechanism and seat belt buckle.
6If a new seat is being fitted, transfer the
adjustment mechanism and other components
to it.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten the seat retaining bolts to the
specified torque.
1Remove the front seat as described in the
previous Section.
2Remove the side trim pieces from the seat.
Free the air tube by removing Its two securing
screws.
3Separate the backrest from the base of theseat by removing the four retaining bolts.
4Remove the backrest cover by unbending
its retaining tags and sliding it off.
5Expose the air cushion by lifting up the foam
padding. Cut the hog rings (wire loops) which
secure the corners of the cushion and remove
it with the air hoses.
6When refitting, use new hog rings. Position
the cut-out in the cushion level with the
second spring in the backrest.
7The remainder of refitting is a reversal of the
removal procedure.
1All models are fitted with inertia reel front
seat belts as standard. Rear seat belts are
available as an extra.
2Maintenance is limited to periodic
inspection of the belts for fraying or other
damage. Also check the operation of the
buckles and retractor mechanisms. In case of
damage or malfunction the belt must be
renewed.
3If it is wished to clean the belts, use only an
approved upholstery cleaner or a weak
solution of detergent, followed by rinsing with
water. Do not use solvents, strong detergents,
dyes or bleaches. Keep the belt extended until
it is dry.
4Belts which have been subjected to impact
loads must be renewed.
1Remove the cover from the belt top anchor.
With the adjustable type of anchor(see
illustration)the cover is removed by levering
out the adjuster button and removing two
screws.
2Remove the anchor bolt or nut and detach
the seat belt runner from it. Note the position
of any washers or spacers.
3Carefully pull out the door aperture
weatherstrips (front and rear) from the B-pillar
(see illustration). Unclip the pillar trim.
4Remove the screws which secure the
retractor cover trim, pull away more of the
47Front seats belts - removal
and refitting
46Seat belts - care and
maintenance
45Front seat air cushion -
removal and refitting
44Front seat - removal and
refitting
43Overhead console - removal
and refitting
Bodywork and fittings 12•17
12
43.4a One of the overhead console
retaining screws43.4b Slide the console rearwards to
release the clips (arrowed)44.1 Removing a front seat retaining bolt
44.4a Front seat outboard rear retaining
bolt44.4b The other two rear retaining bolts are
under the cover
procarmanuals.com

weatherstrips and remove the trim. Also
remove the webbing guide, which is secured
by two screws.
5Unbolt the lower anchor and the retractor,
again noting the position of any washers or
spacers. Remove the retractor and webbing
(see illustration).
6The seat belt buckle is secured to the seat
frame by two Torx screws(see illustration).
There is no need to renew the buckle just
because the retractor and webbing are being
renewed. If it is wished to remove the buckle,
first remove the seat.
7Refit by reversing the removal operations.
Tighten all anchorages to the specified torque,
and make sure that the belt is not twisted.1This Section describes the removal and
refitting of factory or dealer-installed rear seat
belts. A rear belt kit can be purchased from a
Ford dealer and should be found to
correspond with the items shown here. If a
proprietary kit is purchased, make sure it is
suitable for the vehicle in question and follow
the manufacturer’s instructions.
2Fold the rear seat cushion forwards.
3Feed the buckle webbing through the slits in
the carpet. Remove the buckle securing bolt,
remove the pins from the buckle elastic straps
and remove the buckles.
4Remove the lower anchor bolts, then fold
the seat backrests forwards. Fold back the
luggage area carpet and remove the backrest
hinges.
5Remove the seat back striker pins (low
series) or adjuster mechanism cover (high
series) (see illustration).
6Prise the webbing guides from each side
cushion.
7Remove the side cushions. Each one is
retained by a single nut and washer located
near the loudspeaker (see illustration). With
the nut and washer removed, the cushion is
then released by prising open the metal tags
which secure its bottom wire. Pull the bottom
of the cushion forwards and upwards to free it
from the retractor.
8The retractor can now be unbolted and thewebbing withdrawn through the side cushions.
9Commence refitting by fitting the retractor.
First fit the rear bolt and tighten it by a few
turns only, so that the retractor is still free to
move. Push the retractor rearwards and then
downwards so that it takes up its fitted
positions, then fit the front bolt. Tighten both
bolts to the specified torque.
10The remainder of refitting is a reversal of
the removal procedure. Tighten the belt and
buckle anchor bolts to the specified torque.
Cushion
1Fold the seat cushion forwards and remove
the hinge retaining screws (see illustration).
To remove the hinges as well, unbolt the
hinges from the body instead.
2When refitting, just nip up the hinge screws
or bolts and check the fit of the cushions.
Tighten the screws or bolts fully when
satisfied.
Backrests
3Fold the backrests forward and peel back
the carpet to expose the hinges (see
illustration).
4Remove the hinge screws, free the seat belt
webbing clips (when applicable) and remove
the backrests.
5Refit by reversing the removal operations.
49Rear seat components -
removal and refitting
48Rear seats belts - removal
and refitting
12•18Bodywork and fittings
47.1 Front seat belt adjustable top anchor
47.6 Front seat belt buckle secured by two
Torx screws (arrowed)
48.5 Removing a seat back striker pin49.1 Rear seat hinge-to-cushion screws48.7 Removing a side cushion nut
47.3 Removing the weatherstrip from the
B-pillar47.5 Seat belt retractor mechanism -
securing the bolt arrowed
procarmanuals.com

The electrical system is a 12 volt, negative
earth type. Electricity is generated by an
alternator, belt-driven from the crankshaft pulley.
A lead-acid battery provides a reserve of power
for starting and when the demands of the system
temporarily exceed the alternator output.
The battery negative terminal is connected
to “earth” - vehicle metal - and most electrical
system components are wired so that they
only receive a positive feed, the current
returning via vehicle metal. This means that
the component mounting forms part of the
circuit. Loose or corroded mountings can
therefore cause apparent electrical faults.
Many semiconductor devices are used in
the electrical system, both in the “black
boxes” which control vehicle functions and in
other components. Semiconductors are very
sensitive to excessive (or wrong polarity)
voltage, and to extremes of heat. Observe the
appropriate precautions to avoid damage.
Although some repair procedures are given
in this Chapter, sometimes renewal of a well-
used item will prove more satisfactory. The
reader whose interests extend beyond
component renewal should obtain a copy of
the “Automobile Electrical Manual”, available
from the publishers of this book.
Before starting work on the electrical
system, read the precautions listed in “Safety
first!” at the beginning of the manual.
Note:Refer to the precautions given in “Safety
first!” and in Section 1 of this Chapter before
starting work. The following tests relate to testing
of the main electrical circuits, and should not be
used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as
anti-lock braking systems), particularly where an
electronic control unit (ECU) is involved.
General
1A typical electrical circuit consists of an
electrical component, any switches, relays,
motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers
related to that component, and the wiring and
connectors which link the component to both
the battery and the chassis. To help to
pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit,
wiring diagrams are included at the end of this
Chapter.
2Before attempting to diagnose an electrical
fault, first study the appropriate wiring
diagram, to obtain a more complete
understanding of the components included in
the particular circuit concerned. The possible
sources of a fault can be narrowed down by
noting whether other components related to
the circuit are operating properly. If several
components or circuits fail at one time, the
problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse
or earth connection.
3Electrical problems usually stem from
simple causes, such as loose or corroded
connections, a faulty earth connection, a
blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty
relay. Visually inspect the condition of all
fuses, wires and connections in a problem
circuit before testing the components. Use the
wiring diagrams to determine which terminal
connections will need to be checked in order
to pinpoint the trouble-spot.
4The basic tools required for electrical fault-
finding include: a circuit tester or voltmeter (a
12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also
be used for certain tests), a self-powered test
light (sometimes known as a continuity tester),
an ohmmeter (to measure resistance), a
battery and set of test leads, and a jumper
wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse
incorporated, which can be used to bypass
suspect wires or electrical components.
Before attempting to locate a problem with
test instruments, use the wiring diagram to
determine where to make the connections.
5To find the source of an intermittent wiring
fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection,
or damaged wiring insulation), an integrity testcan be performed on the wiring, which
involves moving the wiring by hand, to see if
the fault occurs as the wiring is moved. It
should be possible to narrow down the source
of the fault to a particular section of wiring.
This method of testing can be used in
conjunction with any of the tests described in
the following sub-Sections.
6Apart from problems due to poor
connections, two basic types of fault can
occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit or
short-circuit.
7Open-circuit faults are caused by a break
somewhere in the circuit, which prevents
current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will
prevent a component from working, but will
not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow.
8Short-circuit faults are caused by a “short”
somewhere in the circuit, which allows the
current flowing in the circuit to “escape” along
an alternative route, usually to earth. Short-
circuit faults are normally caused by a
breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a
feed wire to touch either another wire, or an
earthed component such as the bodyshell. A
short-circuit fault will normally cause the
relevant circuit fuse to blow. Note: A short-
circuit that occurs in the wiring between a
circuit’s battery supply and its fuse will not
cause the fuse in that particular circuit to blow.
This part of the circuit is unprotected - bear
this in mind when fault-finding on the vehicle’s
electrical system.
Finding an open-circuit
9To check for an open-circuit, connect one
lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either the
negative battery terminal or a known good earth.
10Connect the other lead to a connector in
the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to
the battery or fuse.
11Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that
some circuits are live only when the ignition
switch is moved to a particular position.
12If voltage is present (indicated either by
the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading,
as applicable), this means that the section of
2Electrical fault-finding - general
information
1General information
Body electrical system 13•3
13
Other relays and modules (continued)
IdentificationFunction
Behind facia (passenger side) (continued):
M4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Heated windscreen (timer)
M5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Air conditioning cooling fan
M6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS pump relay
M7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS main relay
M8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS control unit
M9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ride height control
Below instrument panel (driver’s side):
N1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Bulb failure warning unit
Below facia (passenger side):
P1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ABS module
P2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Fuel-injection system module
Behind facia (passenger side):
R1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Speed control system module
R2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Auxiliary warning system module
R3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Rear audio console module
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Alternator adjusting strap:
To steering pump bracket (SOHC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2616 to 19
To front cover (V6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 to 5130 to 38
procarmanuals.com

Introduction
A selection of good tools is a fundamental
requirement for anyone contemplating the
maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For
the owner who does not possess any, their
purchase will prove a considerable expense,
offsetting some of the savings made by doing-
it-yourself. However, provided that the tools
purchased meet the relevant national safety
standards and are of good quality, they will
last for many years and prove an extremely
worthwhile investment.
To help the average owner to decide which
tools are needed to carry out the various tasks
detailed in this manual, we have compiled
three lists of tools under the following
headings:
Maintenance and minor repair,
Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers
to practical mechanics should start off with the
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit, and
confine themselves to the simpler jobs around
the vehicle. Then, as confidence and
experience grow, more difficult tasks can be
undertaken, with extra tools being purchased
as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a
Maintenance and minor repairtool kit can be
built up into a Repair and overhaultool kit over
a considerable period of time, without any
major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-
yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for
most repair and overhaul procedures, and will
add tools from the Specialcategory when it is
felt that the expense is justified by the amount
of use to which these tools will be put.
Maintenance and minor repair tool
kit
The tools given in this list should be
considered as a minimum requirement if
routine maintenance, servicing and minor
repair operations are to be undertaken. We
recommend the purchase of combination
spanners (ring one end, open-ended the
other); although more expensive than open-
ended ones, they do give the advantages of
both types of spanner.
MCombination spanners:
Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 &
19 mmMAdjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)
MGearbox and final drive filler/level plug keys
MSpark plug spanner (with rubber insert)
MSpark plug gap adjustment tool
MSet of feeler blades
MBrake bleed nipple spanner
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia
Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm
dia
MCombination pliers
MHacksaw (junior)
MTyre pump
MTyre pressure gauge
MOil can
MOil filter removal tool
MFine emery cloth
MWire brush (small)
MFunnel (medium size)
Repair and overhaul tool kit
These tools are virtually essential for anyone
undertaking any major repairs to a motor
vehicle, and are additional to those given in the
Maintenance and minor repairlist. Included in
this list is a comprehensive set of sockets.
Although these are expensive, they will be
found invaluable as they are so versatile -
particularly if various drives are included in the
set. We recommend the half-inch square-drive
type, as this can be used with most proprietary
torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket
set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive
tubular box spanners are a useful alternative.
The tools in this list will occasionally need to
be supplemented by tools from the Special
list:
MSockets (or box spanners) to cover range in
previous list (including Torx sockets)*
MReversible ratchet drive (for use with
sockets) (see illustration)
MExtension piece, 250 mm (for use with
sockets)
MUniversal joint (for use with sockets)
MTorque wrench (for use with sockets)
MSelf-locking grips
MBall pein hammerMSoft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or
rubber)
MScrewdrivers:
Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),
and narrow (electrician’s) types
Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short
(chubby) types
MPliers:
Long-nosed
Side cutters (electrician’s)
Circlip (internal and external)
MCold chisel - 25 mm
MScriber
MScraper
MCentre-punch
MPin punch
MHacksaw
MBrake hose clamp
MBrake/clutch bleeding kit
MSelection of twist drills
MSteel rule/straight-edge
MAllen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see
illustration)
MSelection of files
MWire brush
MAxle stands
MJack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)
MLight with extension lead
* Some Imperial sized nuts and bolts may be
found on air conditioning and automatic
transmission components
Special tools
The tools in this list are those which are not
used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which
need to be used in accordance with their
manufacturer’s instructions. Unless relatively
difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken
frequently, it will not be economic to buy many
of these tools. Where this is the case, you
could consider clubbing together with friends
(or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint
purchase, or borrowing the tools against a
deposit from a local garage or tool hire
specialist. It is worth noting that many of the
larger DIY superstores now carry a large range
of special tools for hire at modest rates.
REF•1
Spline bit setValve spring compressorSockets and reversible ratchet drive
Tools and Working Facilities
procarmanuals.com

REF•4
Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work
is carried out on the car or its components, it is
necessary to observe the following procedures
and instructions. This will assist in carrying out
the operation efficiently and to a professional
standard of workmanship.
Joint mating faces and gaskets
When separating components at their
mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or
similar implements into the joint between the
faces in order to prise them apart. This can
cause severe damage which results in oil
leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.
Separation is usually achieved by tapping
along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in
order to break the seal. However, note that this
method may not be suitable where dowels are
used for component location.
Where a gasket is used between the mating
faces of two components, ensure that it is
renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless
otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make
sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,
with all traces of old gasket removed. When
cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not
likely to score or damage the face, and remove
any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.
Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned
with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of
jointing compound, if this is being used, unless
specifically instructed otherwise.
Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes
are clear, and blow through them, preferably
using compressed air.
Oil seals
Oil seals can be removed by levering them
out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or
similar implement. Alternatively, a number of
self-tapping screws may be screwed into the
seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers
or some similar device in order to pull the seal
free.
Whenever an oil seal is removed from its
working location, either individually or as part
of an assembly, it should be renewed.
The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily
damaged, and will not seal if the surface it
contacts is not completely clean and free from
scratches, nicks or grooves.
Protect the lips of the seal from any surface
which may damage them in the course of
fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where
possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before
fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space
between the lips with grease.
Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be
fitted with their sealing lips toward the
lubricant to be sealed.
Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the
appropriate size to install the seal and, if the
seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal
down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is
unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its
face flush with the housing top face (unless
otherwise instructed).
Screw threads and fastenings
Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a
common occurrence where corrosion has set
in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing
fluid will often overcome this problem if the
offending item is soaked for a while before
attempting to release it. The use of an impact
driver may also provide a means of releasing
such stubborn fastening devices, when used
in conjunction with the appropriate
screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these
methods works, it may be necessary to resort
to the careful application of heat, or the use of
a hacksaw or nut splitter device.
Studs are usually removed by locking two
nuts together on the threaded part, and then
using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew
the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off
below the surface of the component in which
they are mounted can sometimes be removed
using a proprietary stud extractor. Always
ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely
free from oil, grease, water or other fluid
before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do
this could cause the housing to crack due to
the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is
screwed in.
When tightening a castellated nut to accept
a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified
torque, where applicable, and then tighten
further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken
the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated
in the repair procedure.
When checking or retightening a nut or bolt
to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut
or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then
retighten to the specified setting. However,
this should not be attempted where angular
tightening has been used.
For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder
head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are
no longer specified for the latter stages of
tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up
instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench
setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in
the correct sequence, followed by one or
more stages of tightening through specified
angles.
Locknuts, locktabs and washers
Any fastening which will rotate against a
component or housing in the course of
tightening should always have a washer
between it and the relevant component or
housing.
Spring or split washers should always be
renewed when they are used to lock a critical
component such as a big-end bearing
retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are
folded over to retain a nut or bolt should
always be renewed.
Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-
critical areas, providing resistance can be felt
when the locking portion passes over the bolt
or stud thread. However, it should be noted
that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose theireffectiveness after long periods of use, and in
such cases should be renewed as a matter of
course.
Split pins must always be replaced with new
ones of the correct size for the hole.
When thread-locking compound is found on
the threads of a fastener which is to be re-
used, it should be cleaned off with a wire
brush and solvent, and fresh compound
applied on reassembly.
Special tools
Some repair procedures in this manual
entail the use of special tools such as a press,
two or three-legged pullers, spring
compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable
readily-available alternatives to the
manufacturer’s special tools are described,
and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-
skilled and have a thorough understanding of
the procedures described, never attempt to
bypass the use of any special tool when the
procedure described specifies its use. Not
only is there a very great risk of personal injury,
but expensive damage could be caused to the
components involved.
Environmental considerations
When disposing of used engine oil, brake
fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to
any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,
for instance, pour any of the above liquids
down drains into the general sewage system,
or onto the ground to soak away. Many local
council refuse tips provide a facility for waste
oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of
these facilities are available, consult your local
Environmental Health Department for further
advice.
With the universal tightening-up of
legislation regarding the emission of
environmentally-harmful substances from
motor vehicles, most current vehicles have
tamperproof devices fitted to the main
adjustment points of the fuel system. These
devices are primarily designed to prevent
unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air
mixture, with the chance of a consequent
increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are
encountered during servicing or overhaul, they
should, wherever possible, be renewed or
refitted in accordance with the vehicle
manufacturer’s requirements or current
legislation.
Note: It is
antisocial and
illegal to dump
oil down the
drain. To find
the location of
your local oil
recycling
bank, call this
number free.
General Repair Procedures
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