1985 FORD GRANADA fuel pump

14Take the weight of the engine and remove
the two engine bearer-to-mounting nuts.
15Lift the engine/transmission, at the same
time lowering the trolley jack. Draw the unit
forwards and lift it out of the engine bay.
16Temporarily refit the anti-roll bar if the
vehicle is to be moved.
1With the engine and gearbox on the bench,
remove the starter motor.
2Remove the bolt from the engine adapter plate.
3Remove the bracing strap and the
remaining engine-to-bellhousing bolts.
4With the aid of an assistant draw the
gearbox off the engine. Do not allow the weight
of the gearbox to hang on the input shaft.
1It is best to mount the engine on a
dismantling stand, but if this is not available,
stand the engine on a strong bench at a
comfortable working height. Failing this, it will
have to be stripped down on the floor.
2Cleanliness is most important, and if the
engine is dirty, it should be cleaned with
paraffin while keeping it in an upright position.
3Avoid working with the engine on a concrete
floor, as grit can be a real source of trouble.
4As parts are removed, clean them in paraffin.
However, do not immerse parts with internal
oilways in paraffin as it is difficult to remove,
usually requiring a high pressure hose.
5It is advisable to have suitable containers to
hold small items according to their use, as this
will help when reassembling the engine and
also prevent possible losses.
6Always obtain complete sets of gaskets
when the engine is being dismantled, but
retain the old gaskets with a view of using
them as a pattern to make a replacement if a
new one is not available.7When possible, refit nuts, bolts and washers
in their location after being removed, as this
helps protect the threads and will also be
helpful when reassembling the engine.
8Retain unserviceable components in order
to compare them with the new parts supplied.
9A Torx key, size T55, will be needed for
dealing with the cylinder head bolts. A 12-
spline key (to fit bolt size M8) will be needed
for the oil pump bolts. Other Torx and 12-
spline bolts may be encountered; sets of the
keys required to deal with them are available
from most motor accessory shops and tool
factors.
10Another tool which is useful, though by no
means essential, is a valve spring compressor
of the type which hooks under the camshaft
(see illustration). As a Ford tool this bears the
number 21-005-A; proprietary versions may
also be available.
Before dismantling the engine into its main
components, the following ancillary
components can be removed. The actual
items removed, and the sequence of removal,
will depend on the work to be done:
Inlet manifold and associated items
Exhaust manifold
Fuel pump (mechanical type) and pushrod
Alternator
Distributor, HT leads and spark plugs
Fan, water pump and thermostat
Oil pressure switch
(see illustration)
Temperature gauge senderOil filter and dipstick
Engine bearer arms (see illustration)
Crankcase ventilation components
Clutch
Alternator mounting bracket (see
illustration)
1If the engine is still in the vehicle, carry out
the following preliminary operations:
a)Disconnect the battery negative lead
b)Drain the cooling system
c)Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds
d)Disconnect the radiator top hose from the
thermostat housing, and the spur from the
expansion tank
e)Disconnect the wiring from the
temperature gauge sender
f)Remove the distributor cap, HT leads and
spark plugs
2Unscrew the bolts and withdraw the timing
cover (see illustration). Note the location of
the cover in the special bolt.
3Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt.
turn the engine clockwise until the TDC (top
dead centre) notch on the pulley is aligned
with the pointer on the crankshaft front oil seal
housing, and the pointer on the camshaft
sprocket is aligned with the indentation on the
cylinder head (see illustrations).Note the
position of the distributor rotor arm, and mark
its contact end in relation to the rim of the
distributor body.
4Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolts. Pivot
10Cylinder head - removal
9Ancillary components - removal
8Engine dismantling - general
information
7Engine - separation from
manual gearbox
2A•6SOHCengines
9.1a Engine oil pressure switch (arrowed)
9.1b Removing an engine bearer arm9.1c Removing the alternator bracket
8.10 This valve spring compressor is used
by hooking it under the camshaft
Clean oilways with nylon pipe
cleaners.
10.2 Removing the timing cover
procarmanuals.com

10Unscrew the auxiliary shaft sprocket bolt
while holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver inserted through one of the holes.
11Remove the auxiliary shaft sprocket using
a puller if necessary (see illustration).
12Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt while
holding the sprocket stationary with a
screwdriver engaged in one of the grooves.
Alternatively remove the rocker cover and use
a spanner on the camshaft lug.
13Remove the camshaft sprocket using a
puller if necessary, then remove the backplate.
Note that the oil seal can be removed using a
special removal tool or by using self-tapping
screws and a pair of grips.
1Remove the timing belt and the auxiliary
shaft sprocket (only) (Section 13).
2Remove the distributor.
3Remove the fuel pump and pushrod (not
applicable to models with an electric pump).
4Unscrew the bolts and remove the auxiliary
shaft front cover (see illustration).
5Unscrew the cross-head screws, using an
impact screwdriver if necessary, remove the
thrust plate and withdraw the auxiliary shaft
from the block (see illustrations).
6Cut the front cover gasket along the top of
the crankshaft front oil seal housing and
scrape off the gasket.
1If the engine is still in the vehicle, remove
the clutch or automatic transmission.
2Prevent the flywheel or driveplate rotating
by jamming the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap to it.
3Remove the securing bolts and withdraw
the flywheel or driveplate. Do not drop it, it is
heavy.
4The engine adapter plate (backplate) may
now be withdrawn from the dowels if required
(see illustration).1If the engine is out of the vehicle, start at
paragraph 11. If possible, remove the sump
without inverting the engine, so that any
sludge in the bottom of the sump stays there.
2Disconnect the battery negative lead.
3Raise and support the front of the vehicle.
4Remove the splash guard, if fitted, and drain
the engine oil.
5Remove the starter motor.
6Remove the two nuts which secure the
engine bearers to the engine mountings.
7Release the steering shaft universal joint
strap bolt to allow for subsequent movement.
8Free the brake hydraulic pipes from the
clips on the front crossmember.9Support the engine, either with conventional
lifting tackle or with a bar positioned across
the engine bay and resting on two wooden
blocks drilled to fit securely on the suspension
turrets. Make sure the support arrangements
are satisfactory, as you will be working
underneath the suspended engine.
10Take the weight of the engine. Place a jack
under the front crossmember, remove the
crossmember mounting bolts and carefully
lower the jack. Only lower the crossmember
far enough to permit removal of the sump.
11Remove the 23 bolts retaining the sump.
12Remove the sump from the cylinder block
(see illustration). If it is stuck, hit it with a soft-
faced mallet, or prise it sideways (notbetween
the mating faces) with a large screwdriver or
bar.
13Recover the gaskets and sealing strips.
16Sump - removal
15Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - removal
14Auxiliary shaft - removal
SOHCengines 2A•9
2A
13.9 Removing the crankshaft sprocket13.11 Removing the auxiliary shaft
sprocket14.4 Removing the auxiliary shaft front
cover
14.5b Removing the auxiliary shaft14.5a Removing the auxiliary shaft thrust
plate
15.4 Removing the engine adaptor plate
(backplate)16.12 Removing the sump
procarmanuals.com

mountings to the front crossmember. Recover
the washers.
3Raise the engine with a hoist or a suitable
protected jack until the mountings are free,
then remove them.
4Fit the new mountings and lower the engine
onto them.
5Fit the nuts and washers and tighten the
nuts.
6Lower the vehicle.
Carburettor models
The crankcase ventilation system consists
of the special oil filter cap (containing a steel
wool filter) and an oil separator and vent valve
on the left-hand side of the engine. This is
connected by hose to the inlet manifold. The
system operates according to the vacuum in
the inlet manifold. Air is drawn through the
filler cap, through the crankcase, and then
together with piston blow-by gasses through
the oil separator and vent valve to the inlet
manifold. The blow-by gases are then drawn
into the engine together with the fuel/air
mixture. Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance of
the system.
Fuel-injection models
This system is closed, consisting of an oilseparator on the left-hand side of the engine
and a hose connecting it to the inlet air
trunking. Because the trunking is not subject
to manifold vacuum, no vent valve is needed.
1With the engine completely stripped, clean
all the components and examine them for
wear. Each part should be checked, and
where necessary renewed or renovated as
described in the following Sections. Renew
main and big end shell bearings as a matter of
course, unless you know that they have had
little wear and are in perfect condition.
2If in doubt as to whether to renew a
component which is still just serviceable,
consider the time and effort which will be
incurred should it fail at an early date.
Obviously the age and expected life of the
vehicle must influence the standards applied.
3Gaskets, oil seals and O-rings must all be
renewed as a matter of routine. Flywheel and
cylinder head bolts must be renewed because
of the high stresses to which they are
subjected.
4Take the opportunity to renew the engine
core plugs while they are easily accessible.
Knock out the old plugs with a hammer and
chisel or punch. Clean the plug seats, smear
the new plugs with sealant and tap them
squarely into position.1Unscrew the bolts and remove the oil pump
cover (see illustration).
2Using feeler blades check that the rotor
clearances are within the limits given in
Specifications (see illustrations). If not,
unbolt the pick-up tube and strainer and
obtain a new unit (see illustration).Fit the
pick-up tube and strainer to the new pump
using a new gasket, and tighten the bolts.
3If the oil pump is serviceable refit the cover
and tighten the bolts.
1Examine the bearing surfaces of the
crankshaft for scratches or scoring and, using
a micrometer, check each journal and
crankpin for ovality. Where this is found to be
in excess of 0.0254 mm (0.001 in) the
crankshaft will have to be reground and
undersize bearings fitted.
2Crankshaft regrinding should be carried out
by a suitable engineering works, who will
normally supply the matching undersize main
and big-end shell bearings.
27Crankshaft and bearings -
examination and renovation
26Oil pump - examination and
renovation
25Examination and renovation -
general information
24Crankcase ventilation system -
general information
2A•12SOHCengines
23.1 An engine mounting
26.2b Checking the inner-to-outer rotor
clearance26.2c Checking the oil pump rotor endfloat
26.2d Exploded view of the oil pump
A Body
B Outer rotor
C Inner rotor
D CoverE Strainer
F Pick-up tube
G Gasket
H Relief valve
26.1 Removing the oil pump cover26.2a Checking the outer rotor-to-housing
clearance
procarmanuals.com

1Insert the oil pump driveshaft into the block
in its previously noted position.
2Prime the pump by injecting oil into it and
turning it by hand (see illustration).
3Fit the pump. insert the bolts and tighten
them to the specified torque with the splined
key.
4Insert the pick-up tube securing bolt and
tighten it.
5Where applicable refit the crankshaft front
oil seal housing together with a new gasket
and tighten the bolts. Make sure that the
bottom face of the housing is aligned with the
bottom face of the block.
6Refit the sump.
1Apply sealing compound to the corners of
the front and rear rubber sealing strap
locations, then press the strips into the
grooves of the rear main bearing cap and
crankshaft front oil seal housing (see
illustrations)
2Apply a little sealing compound to the
bottom face of the cylinder block, then fit the
sump gaskets in position and locate the end
tabs beneath the rubber sealing strips (see
illustration).3Locate the sump on the gaskets and insert
the bolts loosely.
4Tighten the bolts to the specified torques in
the two stages given in the Specifications(see
illustration).Tighten to the first stage in
circular sequence starting at point A, then
tighten to the second stage starting at point B.
Tighten to the third stage after the engine has
been running for twenty minutes.
5If the engine is in the vehicle, reverse the
steps taken to gain access to the sump.
1If it was removed, refit the adapter plate
(backplate) over the dowels on the rear of the
block.2Wipe the mating faces, then locate the
flywheel/driveplate on the rear of the
crankshaft.
3Coat the threads of the bolts with a liquid
locking agent before fitting. Note that the
manufacturers recommend using new bolts.
4Using a piece of angle iron, hold the
flywheel/driveplate stationary, then tighten the
bolts evenly to the specified torque in diagonal
sequence (see illustrations).
5If the engine is in the car, refit the automatic
transmission or the clutch.
1Oil the auxiliary shaft journals, then insert
the shaft into the cylinder block.
2Locate the thrust plate in the shaft groove,
then insert the crosshead screws and tighten
them with an impact screwdriver.
3Support the front cover on blocks of wood and
drive out the old oil seal. Drive in the new seal
using a metal tube or socket (see illustrations).
Make sure that the sealing lip faces toward the
engine. Smear a little oil on the lip.
4If applicable cut the unwanted top half of a
new gasket and locate it on the cylinder block,
then fit the front cover and tighten the bolts.
5Refit the fuel pump and operating rod (when
applicable).
6Refit the distributor.
7Refit the auxiliary shaft sprocket and timing
belt.
41Auxiliary shaft - refitting
40Flywheel/driveplate and
adapter plate - refitting
39Sump - refitting
38Oil pump - refitting
2A•16SOHCengines
38.2 Priming the oil pump
40.4a Method of holding the flywheel when
tightening the bolts39.4 Sump bolt tightening sequence
For A and B see text40.4b Tightening a flywheel bolt
39.2 Locate the gasket tabs beneath the
sealing strips39.1a Applying sealing compound to a
rubber strip location39.1b Fitting the rubber strip into its groove
procarmanuals.com

See Chapter 1, Section 23.
1Make a final check to ensure that everything
has been reconnected to the engine and that no
rags or tools have been left in the engine bay.
2Check that oil and coolant levels are
correct.
3Start the engine. This may take a little longer
than usual as fuel is pumped up to the engine.
4Check that the oil pressure light goes out
when the engine starts.
5Run the engine at a fast tickover and check
for leaks of oil, fuel and coolant. Also check
power steering and transmission fluid cooler
unions, when applicable. Some smoke and
odd smells may be experienced as assembly
lubricant burns off the exhaust manifold and
other components.6Bring the engine to operating temperature.
Check the ignition timing then adjust the idle
speed (if applicable) and mixture.
7Stop the engine and allow it to cool, then re-
check the oil and coolant levels.
8If new bearings, pistons etc have been
fitted, the engine should be run in at reduced
speeds and loads for the first 500 miles (800
km) or so. It is beneficial to change the engine
oil and filter after this mileage.
1When engine performance is down, or if
misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to
the ignition or fuel system, a compression test
can provide diagnostic clues. If the test is
performed regularly it can give warning of
trouble before any other symptoms become
apparent.
2The engine must be at operating
temperature, the battery must be fully charged
and the spark plugs must be removed. The
services of an assistant will also be required.
3Disable the ignition system by dismantlingthe coil LT feed. Fit the compression tester to
No 1 spark plug hole. (The type of tester which
screws into the spark plug hole is to be
preferred.)
4Have the assistant hold the throttle wide
open and crank the engine on the starter.
Record the highest reading obtained on the
compression tester.
5Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,
recording the pressure developed in each.
6Desired pressures are given in the
Specifications. If the pressure in any cylinder
is low, introduce a teaspoonful of clean engine
oil into the spark plug hole and repeat the test.
7If the addition of oil temporarily improves
the compression pressure, this indicates that
bore or piston wear was responsible for the
pressure loss. No improvement suggests that
leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head
gasket, may be to blame.
8A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is
almost certainly due to the head gasket
between them having blown.
9On completion of the test, refit the spark
plugs and reconnect the coil LT feed.
52Compression test -
description and interpretation
51Initial start-up after overhaul
or major repair
50Valve clearances - checking
and adjustment
2A•20SOHCengines
procarmanuals.com

Chapter 2 Part B:
2.0 litre DOHC engine
Unless otherwise stated, procedures are as described for the SOHC engines in Part A of this Chapter
Camshafts and cam followers - removal, inspection and refitting . .21
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Crankcase ventilation system - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Crankshaft and bearings - examination and renovation . . . . . . . . .31
Crankshaft and main bearings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . .30
Crankshaft front oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Crankshaft rear oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Cylinder head - dismantling and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Cylinder head - inspection and renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in vehicle) . . . . . . . . .17
Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine removed) . . . . . . . . .18
Engine/automatic transmission assembly - reconnection and
refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Engine/automatic transmission assembly - removal and separation .8
Engine dismantling - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Engine/manual gearbox assembly - reconnection and refitting . . . .11
Engine/manual gearbox assembly - removal and separation . . . . . .7
Engine mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Engine reassembly - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33Engine - refitting (automatic transmission in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Engine - refitting (manual gearbox in vehicle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Engine - removal leaving automatic transmission in vehicle . . . . . . .6
Engine - removal leaving manual gearbox in vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Examination and renovation - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . .22
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Initial start-up after overhaul or major repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Major operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . .3
Major operations requiring engine removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . .27
Oil pump drive chain and sprockets - examination and renovation .28
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Pistons and connecting rods - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Timing chain and sprockets - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - examination and
renovation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
General
Manufacturer’s code:
Carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N8B
Fuel-injection engine without catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9B
Fuel-injection engine with catalyst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . N9D
Bore - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 (3.386)
Stroke - mm (in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86.00 (3.386)
Cubic capacity - cc (cu in) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1998 (121.9)
Compression ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:1
Compression pressure at cranking speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 to 13 bar (160 to 189 lbf/in
2)
Maximum power (DIN, kW @ rpm):
N8B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 @ 5600
N9B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 @ 5500
N9D engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 @ 5500
Maximum torque (DIN, Nm @ rpm):
N8B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 @ 3000
N9B engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 @ 2500
N9D engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 @ 2500
Lubrication system
Oil type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Lubricants and fluids”
Oil capacity:
With filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres (7.92 pints)
Without filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 litres (7.04 pints)
2B•1
Easy,suitable for
novice with little
experienceFairly easy,suitable
for beginner with
some experienceFairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanicDifficult,suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanicVery difficult,
suitable for expert
DIY or professional
Degrees of difficulty
Specifications Contents
2B
procarmanuals.com

DOHCengine 2B•3
2B
Torque wrench settingsNmlbf ft
Main bearing cap bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 to 10466 to 77
Big-end bearing cap bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 to 1711 to 13
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten further 85°to 95°Tighten further 85°to 95°
Crankshaft pulley bolt:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 to 5833 to 43
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten further 80°to 90°Tighten further 80°to 90°
Camshaft sprocket bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 to 6341 to 46
Flywheel bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 to 9261 to 68
Oil pump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 127 to 9
Oil pump sprocket bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 to 1912 to 14
Oil pump chain tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 137 to 10
Sump bolts and nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 106 to 7
Sump studs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Sump drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 to 2815 to 21
Sump front mounting plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 to 2817 to 21
Oil baffle nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 to 2113 to 15
Oil pick-up pipe-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 to 137 to 10
Oil pressure warning lamp switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 to 2213 to 16
Cylinder head bolts:
M11 bolts:
Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2518
Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5541
Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten further 90°Tighten further 90°
Stage 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Tighten further 90°Tighten further 90°
M8 bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 to 3927 to 29
Camshaft cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 to 84 to 6
Camshaft bearing cap nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 to 2616 to 19
Lower timing chain guide:
Upper bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 to 137 to 10
Lower bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 to 2818 to 21
Upper and lower timing chain cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 to 105 to 7
Crankshaft rear oil seal housing bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 to 116 to 8
Engine-to-gearbox/transmission bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 to 4121 to 30
The 2.0 litre DOHC (Double OverHead
Camshaft) engine was introduced in June
1989 to replace the 2.0 litre SOHC engine
used previously in the Granada range, at the
same time a 2.0 litre version of the Scorpio
model was also introduced. The engine is of
four-cylinder, in-line type.
The crankshaft incorporates five main
bearings. Thrustwashers are fitted to the
centre main bearing in order to control
crankshaft endfloat.
The camshafts are driven by a chain from
the crankshaft and operate the angled valves
via hydraulic cam followers. One camshaft
operates the inlet valves, and the other
operates the exhaust valves.
The distributor is driven directly from the
front of the inlet camshaft, and the oil pump is
driven by a chain from the crankshaft. An
electric fuel pump is mounted in the fuel tank.
Lubrication is by means of a bi-rotor pump
which draws oil through a strainer located
inside the sump, and forces it through a full-
flow filter into the engine oil galleries, from
where it is distributed to the crankshaft and
camshafts. The big-end bearings are supplied
with oil via internal drillings in the crankshaft.
The undersides of the pistons are suppliedwith oil from drillings in the connecting rods.
The hydraulic cam followers are supplied with
oil from passages in the cylinder head. The
camshafts are lubricated by oil from spray
tubes mounted above the camshaft bearing
caps.
A closed crankcase ventilation system is
employed, whereby piston blow-by gases are
drawn from the crankcase, through a breather
pipe into the inlet manifold where they are
burnt with fresh air/fuel mixture.The crankcase ventilation system (see
illustration)consists of an oil separator and
vent valve fitted to the cylinder block on the
left-hand side of the engine. This is connected
by a pipe to the inlet manifold. The system
operates according to the vacuum in the inlet
2Crankcase ventilation system -
general information1General information
2.1 Crankcase ventilation
system - fuel-injection engine
1 Inlet manifold connection
2 Inlet manifold
3 Breather pipe
4 Oil separator
5 Vent valve
6 Connecting hose
procarmanuals.com

manifold. Piston blow-by gases are drawn
through the oil separator and the vent valve to
the inlet manifold. The blow-by gases are then
drawn into the engine together with the fuel/air
mixture. Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance of
the system.
The following operations can be carried out
without removing the engine from the vehicle.
a)Removal of the camshafts.
b)Removal and servicing of the cylinder
head.
c)Removal of the timing chain and
sprockets.
d)Removal of the oil pump.
e)Removal of the sump.
f)Removal of the pistons and connecting
rods.
g)Removal of the big-end bearings.
h)Removal of the engine mountings.
i)Removal of the clutch and flywheel.
j)Removal of the crankshaft front and rear
oil seals.
The following operations can only be carried
out after removing the engine from the vehicle.
a)Removal of the crankshaft main bearings.
b)Removal of the crankshaft.
Note: A hoist and lifting tackle will be required
to lift the engine out of the vehicle.
1Disconnect the battery negative lead.
2Remove the bonnet.
3On carburettor models, remove the air cleaner.
4On fuel-injection models, remove the air
inlet hose, plenum chamber and air cleaner lid
as an assembly.
5Disconnect the breather hose from the
camshaft cover, and unscrew the bolt
securing the hose support bracket to the left-
hand side of the cylinder head (see
illustration).
6Drain the cooling system.
7To provide additional working space,
remove the radiator.8Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
water pump housing on the left-hand side of
the engine and the cylinder head (see
illustration).
9Disconnect the coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing.
10Disconnect the heater coolant hose from
the inlet manifold.
11Where applicable, release the coolant
hose from the bracket under the carburettor
automatic choke housing.
12Disconnect the throttle cable and (where
necessary) speed control cable from the
throttle linkage.
13On carburettor models, disconnect the
vacuum pipe from the engine management
module.
14Disconnect the brake servo vacuum hose
(where necessary) from the inlet manifold.
15On fuel-injection models, disconnect the
vacuum pipes from the MAP sensor (located
on the suspension turret on the right-hand
side of the engine compartment) and, where
applicable, the air conditioning system.
16On carburettor models, disconnect the
fuel supply and return hoses at the
carburettor, and plug the ends of the hoses to
minimise petrol spillage. Take adequate fire
precautions.
17On fuel-injection models, slowly loosen
the fuel feed union at the fuel rail to relieve the
pressure in the fuel system before
disconnecting the union. Be prepared for
petrol spillage and take adequate fire
precautions. Disconnect the fuel feed hose,and disconnect the fuel return hose from the
fuel pressure regulator. Plug the ends of the
hoses to minimise petrol spillage.
18Disconnect the HT lead from the ignition
coil, and unclip it from the timing chain cover.
19Disconnect the wiring from the following
components as applicable, depending on
model. Then free the wiring loom from any
necessary retaining clips or ties and position it
clear of the engine.
a)Alternator.
b)Starter motor.
c)Oil pressure warning lamp switch.
d)Temperature gauge sender.
e)Cooling fan switch.
f)Anti-dieselling valve (carburettor models).
g)Automatic choke heater (carburettor
models).
h)Engine coolant temperature sensor.
i)Crankshaft speed/position sensor.
j)Air charge temperature sensor.
k)Throttle position sensor.
l)Fuel temperature sensor.
m)Fuel injectors.
20Remove the water pump/alternator
drivebelt, then unbolt the power steering
pump from the mounting bracket and move it
clear of the engine. Note that there is no need
to disconnect the fluid hoses, but make sure
that the pump is adequately supported to
avoid straining them.
21On models fitted with air conditioning,
unbolt the air conditioning compressor from the
mounting bracket, and move it clear of the
engine (see illustration). Do notdisconnect the
hoses, but make sure that the compressor is
adequately supported to avoid straining them.
22Unscrew and remove the top engine-to-
gearbox bolts which are accessible from the
engine compartment. Note the location of the
bolts, and the positions of the earth strap and
any wiring clips attached to the bolts.
23Unscrew the securing bolt, and
disconnect the earth lead from the rear left-
hand side of the cylinder head.
24Unscrew the nuts securing the engine
mountings to the engine mounting brackets.
25Apply the handbrake, jack up the front of
the vehicle and support it securely on axle
stands (see “Jacking”).
26Drain the engine oil into a container.
5Engine - removal leaving manual
gearbox in vehicle
4Major operations requiring
engine removal
3Major operations possible with
the engine in the vehicle
2B•4DOHCengine
5.5 Removing the hose support bracket
bolt from the cylinder head5.8 Water pump coolant hoses (viewed
from above)
5.21 Air conditioning compressor mounting
bolts (arrowed) (viewed from underneath)
Warning: Vehicles equipped with
air conditioning: Components of
the air conditioning system may
obstruct work being undertaken
on the engine, and it is not always possible
to unbolt and move them aside sufficiently,
within the limits of their flexible pipes. In
such a case, the system should be
discharged by a Ford dealer or air
conditioning specialist. Refer also to the
precautions given in Chapter 3.
procarmanuals.com