optimum engine operating efficiency. In the
event of a system sensor malfunction, errors
in data passed to the ECU are overcome by
an emergency operation, whereby the ECU
supplies the injectors with one of two set
injection periods independent of the sensors.
One period (2.2 ms) is for idle speed and the
other (2.5 ms) is for speeds above idle
(actuated when the idle speed contact is
opened).
4An injection system relay and a fuel pump
relay are fitted and are located in the engine
compartment, adjacent to the ECU on the left-
hand inner wing panel. In the event of the
engine not being started within two seconds of
the ignition being switched to the “ON”
position, the fuel pump relay is deactivated.
The fuel pump circuit fuse is located in the
main fuse block located under the facia within
the car. Note: To avoid possible damage to the
ECU, it is essential that the ignition is switched
off before disconnecting (or connecting) the
wiring multi-plug from the ECU.A Lambda (or
oxygen) sensor is fitted to L3.2 equipped
models, to measure exhaust gas oxygen
content. In sending signals to the ECU,
optimum catalyst operation is maintained.
Fuel system -
depressurisationÁ
5The fuel system should always be
depressurised whenever any fuel hoses
and/or system components are disconnected
and/or removed. This can easily be achieved
as follows.
6The fuel pump relay is located next to the
ECU and airflow meter in the engine
compartment. Carefully pull free the fuel
pump relay, then start the engine and run it
until it stops. The fuel system is now
depressurised. Turn the ignition off before
removing/dismantling any components.
7Do not refit the fuel pump relay or turn the
ignition on until the system is fully
reconnected. When the engine is ready to be
restarted, refit the relay and its cover, then
restart the engine in the normal manner.
MaintenanceÁ
8Regularly check the condition and security
of the system hoses and connections. Also
check the system wiring connections for
condition and security.9At the specified intervals, renew the air
cleaner element and the fuel filter.
Fuel filter - renewalÁ
10This is located in the engine compartment
on the right-hand side. Disconnect the fuel
inlet and outlet hoses, but be prepared for the
loss of fuel. Loosen off the clamp and remove
the filter.
11Reverse the removal procedure to fit the
new filter, but ensure that the arrow indicating
fuel flow is pointing towards the fuel injector rail.
Air cleaner element -
renewalÁ
12Prise free the four retaining clips, then
remove the cover and the air cleaner element.13Wipe clean the inside surfaces of the air
cleaner housing, then insert the new element,
refit the cover and secure it with the four
retaining clips.
Checks and adjustments°
Engine idle speed and mixture
adjustment
14Before carrying out any adjustments, the
engine must be at its normal operating
temperature, the cooling fan having cut into
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•79
Fig. 13.49 Fuel injection system components layout in engine compartment on the
1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
1 ECU
1A Diagnostic socket
2 Ignition system relay and
fuel pump relay
7 Coolant temperature
sensor10 Supplementary air valve
11 Throttle position switch
11A Throttle housing
12 Airflow meter
13 Fuel pressure regulator
15 Secondary fuel filter16 Injectors
17 Injector cooling fan
18 Thermostatic switch (to
engage injector cooling
fan)
Fig. 13.52 Idle speed adjustment screw (1)
on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine (Sec 9E)
Note method of compressing the
supplementary air valve pipe (arrowed)
Fig. 13.51 Air cleaner cover securing clips
(arrowed) on the 1372 cc Turbo ie engine
(Sec 9E)Fig. 13.50 Secondary fuel filter with arrows
indicating direction of flow - 1372 cc Turbo
ie engine (Sec 9E)
13
31Unscrew and remove the two
turbocharger mounting bracket bolts.
32Referring to Fig. 13.67, loosen off the
retaining clip and detach the air hose from the
heat exchanger and the oil return pipe from
the turbocharger (to sump).
33Working from above, undo the
turbocharger mounting bracket bolts.
34Unscrew and remove the coolant
pipe-to-pump retaining bolts. The
turbocharger can now be removed from above
by withdrawing it together with the exhaust
manifold from the engine compartment.
35Locate and support the exhaust manifold
in a vice. Fit protector clamps to the jaws of the
vice to avoid possible damage to the manifold.
36Note the orientation and fitted position of
the turbocharger mounting bracket, then
unscrew the retaining nuts and detach the
bracket.
37Undo the retaining nuts, separate andremove the exhaust manifold from the
turbocharger.
38The turbocharger and wastegate valve are
not repairable and must therefore be renewed
as a complete unit. This being the case,
remove the following ancillary items from the
turbocharger unit before renewing it.
a) Loosen off the retaining clip and remove
the air outlet hose from turbocharger.
b) Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the oil return hose union.
c) Unscrew the union and bolt and coolant
inlet pipe.
d) Undo the retaining nuts and remove the
turbocharger-to-exhaust manifold
connector.
39Where applicable, always use new
gaskets and ensure that the mating faces are
clean before refitting the ancillary components
to the turbocharger.Intercooler -
removal and refitting Á
40The intercooler is mounted behind the
left-hand side of the front bumper/spoiler (photo).
41Disconnect the air ducts from the intercooler.
42Unscrew the mounting bolts and lift the
intercooler from the car.
43Refitting is a reversal of removal (photo).
Injector cooling fan -
removal and refitting Á
44This unit is located on the left-hand side at
the front of the car. It can be accessed for
removal from above, in the engine compartment.
45Detach and remove the air intake duct
from the air cleaner unit to the ECU/airflow
meter.
46Disconnect and remove the air duct from
the air blower unit.
47Undo the air blower retaining nuts, withdraw
the unit and detach its wiring connector.
13•84 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models
9F.43 Intercooler mounting bolt (arrowed)
on 1301 cc engine9F.40 Intercooler location (1301 cc engine)Fig. 13.69 Turbocharger coolant pipe-to-
pump bolt location (arrowed) (Sec 9F)
Fig. 13.68 Turbocharger mounting bracket
bolts removal (Sec 9F)Fig. 13.67 Disconnect the heat exchanger
air hose and the oil return pipe
(turbocharger-to-sump) (Sec 9F)Fig. 13.66 Turbocharger mounting bracket
bolts (arrowed) (Sec 9F)
Fault finding - fuel injection system
Difficult starting from cold
m mFuel pump fault
m mBlocked fuel pipe or filter
m mSupplementary air valve fault
m mCoolant temperature sensor fault
Excessive fuel consumption
m
mIncorrect mixture setting
m mDirty air cleaner element
m mCoolant temperature sensor fault
m mAirflow sensor fault
Difficult to start when hot
m
mChoked air cleaner element
m mFuel pump fault
Uneven idling
m
mIncorrect mixture setting
m mIntake system air leak
m mThrottle position switch out of adjustment
m mLoose ECU connector
Door closure sensor
117The sensor consists of a microswitch
within the lock. The switch actuates the
warning lamp according to whether the lock is
in the open or closed mode.
Check control system sensors -
testing
Brake fluid level sensor
118With the fluid level correct, switch on the
ignition and depress the centre of the
reservoir cap. If the sensor switches are
working correctly, then “FAULT” should be
indicated on the check panel.
Coolant level sensor
119With the coolant level in the expansion
tank correct, switch on the ignition and then
pull the wiring plug from the sensor. “FAULT”
should be indicated on the check panel. If it is
not, then it is the panel which is faulty.
120An ohmmeter should be used to check
for continuity, holding the float in both the full
and low level positions.
Engine oil level sensor
121With the oil level correct, disconnect the
wiring plug from the dipstick, and then bridge
the plug terminals (not dipstick side) with a 12
ohm resistor. Switch on the ignition.
122If the red light on the check panel goes
out, then the fault is due to the sensor.
123If the light stays on, then it is the check
panel module which is faulty.
Door closure sensor
124Any fault in the lock microswitch can best
be detected using an ohmmeter.
16 Suspension
Front anti-roll bar -
removal and refittingª
1A front anti-roll bar is fitted to the 1301 cc,
1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie engined
models. Removal of the bar on all models isas follows. Firstly loosen off the front
roadwheel bolts, then raise the front of the
car, securely support it on axle stands and
remove the front roadwheels.
2Disconnect the two gearchange rods from
the transmission.
3Unbolt and disconnect the anti-roll bar
insulating clamps from the floorpan (photo).
4Unbolt the end links from the track control
arms and withdraw the anti-roll bar (photo).
5Refitting is a reversal of removal, but only
tighten the nuts and bolts to the specified
torque with the car parked on level ground,
with four passengers and 40 kg of luggage
inside.
Suspension strut - later models
6The suspension strut upper mounting nuts
on later models also secure the brackets for
the mounting of ancillary components such as
the fuel filter, fuel system relays and fuses,
etc. (depending on model).
7When removing the suspension strut units,
it will therefore be necessary to detach and
support these brackets and their fittings
(photo).
17 Bodywork
Plastic components
1With the use of more and more plastic
body components by the vehicle
manufacturers (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in
some cases major body panels), rectification
of more serious damage to such items has
become a matter of either entrusting repair
work to a specialist in this field, or renewing
complete components. Repair of such
damage by the DIY owner is not really
feasible owing to the cost of the equipment
and materials required for effecting such
repairs. The basic technique involves making
a groove along the line of the crack in the
plastic using a rotary burr in a power drill. The
damaged part is then welded back togetherby using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a
plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess
plastic is then removed and the area rubbed
down to a smooth finish. It is important that a
filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as
body components can be made of a variety
of different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS,
polypropylene). Damage of a less serious
nature (abrasions, minor cracks, etc.) can be
repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part
epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in
equal proportions, this is used in similar
fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal
panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to
thirty minutes, ready for sanding and
painting.
2If the owner is renewing a complete
component himself, or if he has repaired it
with epoxy filler, he will be left with the
problem of finding a suitable paint for
finishing which is compatible with the type of
plastic used. At one time the use of a
universal paint was not possible owing to the
complex range of plastics encountered in
body component applications. Standard
paints, generally speaking, will not bond to
plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is
now possible to obtain a plastic body parts
finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer
treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.
Full instructions are normally supplied with a
kit, but basically the method of use is to first
apply the pre-primer to the component
concerned and allow it to dry for up to
30 minutes. Then the primer is applied and
left to dry for about an hour before finally
applying the special coloured top coat. The
result is a correctly coloured component
where the paint will flex with the plastic or
rubber, a property that standard paint does
not normally possess.
Rear view mirrors Á
Interior
3The mirror is of safety type, “breaking” off
its ball fixing upon impact from a front seat
occupant.
4To remove the mirror, grip the head and
Supplement: Revisions and information on later models 13•111
16.7 Suspension strut upper mounting
nuts, showing bracket and cable clip on
the 1372 cc ie model16.4 Anti-roll bar fixing nuts (arrowed)16.3 Anti-roll bar clamp
13
REF•4MOT Test Checks
MExamine the handbrake mechanism,
checking for frayed or broken cables,
excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of
the linkage. Check that the mechanism works
on each relevant wheel, and releases fully,
without binding.
MIt is not possible to test brake efficiency
without special equipment, but a road test can
be carried out later to check that the vehicle
pulls up in a straight line.
Fuel and exhaust systems
MInspect the fuel tank (including the filler
cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All
components must be secure and free from
leaks.
MExamine the exhaust system over its entire
length, checking for any damaged, broken or
missing mountings, security of the retaining
clamps and rust or corrosion.
Wheels and tyres
MExamine the sidewalls and tread area of
each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps,
bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure
of the ply or cord due to wear or damage.
Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated
on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound andproperly seated, and that the wheel is not
distorted or damaged.
MCheck that the tyres are of the correct size
for the vehicle, that they are of the same size
and type on each axle, and that the pressures
are correct.
MCheck the tyre tread depth. The legal
minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over
at least three-quarters of the tread width.
Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect
front wheel alignment.
Body corrosion
MCheck the condition of the entire vehicle
structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing
areas. (These include chassis box sections,
side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all
suspension, steering, braking system and
seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any
corrosion which has seriously reduced the
thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to
cause the vehicle to fail. In this case
professional repairs are likely to be needed.
MDamage or corrosion which causes sharp
or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed
will also cause the vehicle to fail.
Petrol models
MHave the engine at normal operating
temperature, and make sure that it is in good
tune (ignition system in good order, air filter
element clean, etc).
MBefore any measurements are carried out,
raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm,
and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allowthe engine speed to return to idle, and watch
for smoke emissions from the exhaust
tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much
too high, or if dense blue or clearly-visible
black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more
than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule
of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt
(engine wear) while black smoke signifies
unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other
carburettor or fuel system fault).
MAn exhaust gas analyser capable of
measuring carbon monoxide (CO) and
hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an
instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a
local garage may agree to perform the check
for a small fee.
CO emissions (mixture)
MAt the time of writing, the maximum CO
level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after
August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles.
From January 1996 a much tighter limit
(around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped
vehicles first used from August 1992. If the
CO level cannot be reduced far enough to
pass the test (and the fuel and ignition
systems are otherwise in good condition) then
the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some
problem in the fuel injection system or
catalytic converter (as applicable).
HC emissionsMWith the CO emissions within limits, HC
emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm
(parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test
at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm;
if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this
counts as a pass.
MExcessive HC emissions can be caused by
oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be
due to unburnt fuel.
Diesel models
MThe only emission test applicable to Diesel
engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke
density. The test involves accelerating the
engine several times to its maximum
unloaded speed.
Note: It is of the utmost importance that the
engine timing belt is in good condition before
the test is carried out.
M
Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty
air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional
advice may be needed to find the cause.
4Checks carried out on
YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST
EMISSION SYSTEM
Engine cuts out suddenly –
ignition fault
m mLoose or disconnected LT wires
m mWet HT leads or distributor cap (after
traversing water splash)
m mCoil failure (check for spark)
m mOther ignition fault (see Chapter 4)
Engine misfires before cutting out
– fuel fault
m mFuel tank empty
m mFuel pump defective or filter blocked
(check for delivery)
m mFuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be
evident on releasing cap)
m mCarburettor needle valve sticking
m mCarburettor jets blocked (fuel contami-
nated)
m mOther fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)
Engine cuts out – other causes
m
mSerious overheating
m mMajor mechanical failure (eg camshaft
drive)
Ignition (no-charge) warning light
illuminated
m mSlack or broken drivebelt — retension or
renew (Chapter 9)
Ignition warning light not
illuminated
m mCoolant loss due to internal or external
leakage (see Chapter 2)
m mThermostat defective
m mLow oil level
m mBrakes binding
m mRadiator clogged externally or internally
m mElectric cooling fan not operating correctly
m mEngine waterways clogged
m mIgnition timing incorrect or automatic
advance malfunctioning
m mMixture too weak
Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated
engine or damage may result
Note: Low oil pressure in a high-mileage
engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause
for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is
far more significant. In any event check the
gauge or warning light sender before
condemning the engine.
Gauge reads low or warning light
illuminated with engine running
m mOil level low or incorrect grade
m mDefective gauge or sender unit m mWire to sender unit earthed
m mEngine overheating
m mOil filter clogged or bypass valve defective
m mOil pressure relief valve defective
m mOil pick-up strainer clogged
m mOil pump worn or mountings loose
m mWorn main or big-end bearings
Pre-ignition (pinking) on
acceleration
m mIncorrect grade of fuel
m mIgnition timing incorrect
m mDistributor faulty or worn
m mWorn or maladjusted carburettor
m mExcessive carbon build-up in engine
Whistling or wheezing noises
m
mLeaking vacuum hose
m mLeaking carburettor or manifold gasket
m mBlowing head gasket
Tapping or rattling
m
mIncorrect valve clearances (where appli-
cable)
m mWorn valve gear
m mWorn timing chain or belt
m mBroken piston ring (ticking noise)
Knocking or thumping
m
mUnintentional mechanical contact (eg fan
blades)
m mWorn drivebelt
m mPeripheral component fault (generator,
water pump, etc)
m mWorn big-end bearings (regular heavy
knocking, perhaps less under load)
m mWorn main bearings (rumbling and
knocking, perhaps worsening under load)
m mPiston slap (most noticeable when cold)
Engine noises
Low engine oil pressure
Engine overheatsEngine cuts out and will not restart
Fault FindingREF•11
REF
Crank engine and check for spark. Note
use of insulated tool
Glossary of Technical TermsREF•13
REF
A
ABS (Anti-lock brake system)A system,
usually electronically controlled, that senses
incipient wheel lockup during braking and
relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are
about to skid.
Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the
steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or
glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on
collision, the bags inflate, preventing the
driver and front passenger from being thrown
forward into the steering wheel or windscreen.
Air cleanerA metal or plastic housing,
containing a filter element, which removes
dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the
engine.
Air filter elementThe actual filter in an air
cleaner system, usually manufactured from
pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular
intervals.
Allen keyA hexagonal wrench which fits into
a recessed hexagonal hole.
Alligator clipA long-nosed spring-loaded
metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make
temporary electrical connections.
AlternatorA component in the electrical
system which converts mechanical energy
from a drivebelt into electrical energy to
charge the battery and to operate the starting
system, ignition system and electrical
accessories.
Ampere (amp)A unit of measurement for the
flow of electric current. One amp is the
amount of current produced by one volt
acting through a resistance of one ohm.
Anaerobic sealerA substance used to
prevent bolts and screws from loosening.
Anaerobic means that it does not require
oxygen for activation. The Loctite brand is
widely used.
AntifreezeA substance (usually ethylene
glycol) mixed with water, and added to a
vehicle’s cooling system, to prevent freezing
of the coolant in winter. Antifreeze also
contains chemicals to inhibit corrosion and
the formation of rust and other deposits that
would tend to clog the radiator and coolant
passages and reduce cooling efficiency.
Anti-seize compoundA coating that
reduces the risk of seizing on fasteners that
are subjected to high temperatures, such as
exhaust manifold bolts and nuts.
AsbestosA natural fibrous mineral with great
heat resistance, commonly used in the
composition of brake friction materials.Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust
created by brake systems should never be
inhaled or ingested.
AxleA shaft on which a wheel revolves, or
which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid
beam that connects the two wheels at one
end of the vehicle. An axle which also
transmits power to the wheels is known as a
live axle.
AxleshaftA single rotating shaft, on either
side of the differential, which delivers power
from the final drive assembly to the drive
wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.
BBall bearingAn anti-friction bearing
consisting of a hardened inner and outer race
with hardened steel balls between two races.
BearingThe curved surface on a shaft or in a
bore, or the part assembled into either, that
permits relative motion between them with
minimum wear and friction.
Big-end bearingThe bearing in the end of
the connecting rod that’s attached to the
crankshaft.
Bleed nippleA valve on a brake wheel
cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component
that is opened to purge the hydraulic system
of air. Also called a bleed screw.
Brake bleedingProcedure for removing air
from lines of a hydraulic brake system.
Brake discThe component of a disc brake
that rotates with the wheels.Brake drumThe component of a drum brake
that rotates with the wheels.
Brake liningsThe friction material which
contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the
vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or
riveted to the brake pads or shoes.
Brake padsThe replaceable friction pads
that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are
applied. Brake pads consist of a friction
material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing
plate.
Brake shoeThe crescent-shaped carrier to
which the brake linings are mounted and
which forces the lining against the rotating
drum during braking.
Braking systemsFor more information on
braking systems, consult the Haynes
Automotive Brake Manual.
Breaker barA long socket wrench handle
providing greater leverage.
BulkheadThe insulated partition between
the engine and the passenger compartment.
CCaliperThe non-rotating part of a disc-brake
assembly that straddles the disc and carries
the brake pads. The caliper also contains the
hydraulic components that cause the pads to
pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A
caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set
to measure inside or outside dimensions of an
object.
CamshaftA rotating shaft on which a series
of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms.
The camshaft may be driven by gears, by
sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a
belt.
CanisterA container in an evaporative
emission control system; contains activated
charcoal granules to trap vapours from the
fuel system.
CarburettorA device which mixes fuel with
air in the proper proportions to provide a
desired power output from a spark ignition
internal combustion engine.
CastellatedResembling the parapets along
the top of a castle wall. For example, a
castellated balljoint stud nut.
CastorIn wheel alignment, the backward or
forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is
positive when the steering axis is inclined
rearward at the top.
Canister
Brake bleeding
Bearing
Air filter
F
Facia - 12•10, 13•107
Fan -2•3, 13•57, 13•71, 13•84
Fast idle adjustment -3•7, 3•9, 3•10, 3•11,
13•64
Fault finding- REF`•9et seq
Fault finding - braking system -8•9
Fault finding - clutch -5•3
Fault finding - cooling and heating systems
-2•8
Fault finding - driveshafts and hubs -7•6
Fault finding - Econometer -9•12
Fault finding - electrical system -9•14,
REF•9
Fault finding - engine -1•35, 1•36, 2•8,
3•13, 4•9, 13•92, REF•10, REF•11
Fault finding - fuel system -3•9, 3•13,
13•84
Fault finding - ignition system -4•9,
REF•11
Fault finding - Microplex ignition system -
13•92
Fault finding - steering - 10•4
Fault finding - suspension - 11•6
Fault finding - transmission -6•4
Fault finding - turbocharger system - 13•84
Filling - 12•3
Final drive output shafts - 13•94
Fire -0•5
Float adjustment -3•7, 3•8, 3•10, 3•11,
13•64, 13•66
Flywheel -1•19, 1•21, 1•31, 13•46, 13•53
Fog lamps - 13•106
Fuel evaporation control system - 13•78
Fuel filter - 13•67, 13•72, 13•74, 13•79
Fuel gauge fault -9•14
Fuel injection electronic control unit (ECU)
- 13•77
Fuel injection system - 13•68, 13•69
Fuel injection system fault finding - 13•84
Fuel injectors - 13•69, 13•70, 13•71, 13•76,
13•77, 13•81, 13•84
Fuel level transmitter -3•5
Fuel pressure regulator - 13•70
Fuel pump -3•5, 13•61, 13•69, 13•72,
13•76, 13•80, 13•81
Fuel rail - 13•70, 13•81
Fuel system-3•1et seq, 13•60, REF•4
Fuel system fault finding -3•9, 3•13
Fuel tank -3•5, 13•61, 13•72
Fume or gas intoxication -0•5
Fuses -9•5, 13•105
G
Gaiters -7•2, 10•2, 13•98
Gashes in bodywork - 12•2
Gaskets -1•20
Gearbox - SeeTransmission
Gearchange lever -6•2
Gearchange linkage - 13•94, 13•95
Glossary of technical terms- REF•13et seq
Grille - 12•3, 13•113
H
Handbrake -8•8, 8•9, REF•1
Handles - 12•11
HC emissions - REF•4
Headlamp -9•6, 9•7, 13•105, 13•106
Heated tailgate window -9•10
Heater -2•5, 2•6, 13•58, 13•59, 13•108
Heater fault -2•8
Horn -9•6, 13•106
Horn fault -9•14
HT leads - 13•92
Hubs -7•3, 7•4, 11•3
Hydraulic hoses and pipes -8•6
Hydraulic system -8•7
Hydrofluoric acid -0•5
I
Idle speed adjustment -3•7, 13•62, 13•65,
13•68, 13•75, 13•79
Idling fault -1•36, 3•13, 13•84
Ignition coil - 13•86, 13•90, 13•91
Ignition switch -4•8
Ignition system-4•1et seq, 13•85
Ignition system fault finding -4•9, 9•14,
REF•11
Ignition unit - 13•89
Indicators -9•7
Injectors - 13•69, 13•70, 13•71, 13•76,
13•77, 13•81, 13•84
Inlet manifold - 13•70, 13•77, 13•80
Instrument panel -9•8, 13•107
Intercooler - 13•84
Interior lamps -9•5, 9•8
Introduction to the Fiat Uno -0•4
J
Jacking -0•8
Joint mating faces and gaskets - REF•8
Jump starting -0•7
L
Lambda sensor - 13•82
Lamps -9•6, 9•7, 9•8
Leaks -0•9, 1•36, 13•84
LED (light emitter diode) -9•12
Lights fault -9•14
Locknuts,locktabs and washers - REF•8
Locks -9•11, 10•4, 12•4, 12•6, 12•7,
13•109
Loudspeakers -9•11
Lubricants and fluids -0•13
M
Magnetic impulse generator winding -
13•86
Main bearings -1•20, 1•30, 13•52
Maintenance -0•10, 13•18
Manifolds -3•12, 13•70, 13•77, 13•80
Master cylinder -8•5, 13•103, 13•93
Microplex ignition system - 13•86, 13•89Microplex ignition system fault finding -
13•92
Mirrors - 12•11, 13•111, REF•1
Misfire -1•35, 4•9, REF•11
Mixture adjustment -3•7, 13•62, 13•65,
13•68, 13•75, 13•79
MOT test checks- REF•1et seq
Mountings -1•13, 1•27, 13•26, 13•35,
13•49
N
Needle valve - 13•66
Number plate lamp -9•7
O
Oil cooler - 13•36
Oil filter -1•8
Oil level sensor - 13•110, 13•111
Oil pressure fault -1•36, REF•11
Oil pump -1•13, 1•19, 1•22, 1•26, 1•29,
13•24, 13•30, 13•35, 13•46, 13•53
Oil seals -1•20, 13•41, 13•44, 13•45,
13•94, REF•8
Oil,engine -0•6, 0•13, 1•3, 1•4, 1•8
Oil,transmission -0•6, 0•13, 6•1, 13•14,
13•95
Overheating -2•8, 4•9, REF•11
P
Pad wear sensor - 13•110
Pads -8•2, 13•100, 13•101
Parking lamp -9•7
Pedals -5•2, 8•9, 13•92, 13•102
Pinking -1•36, 13•84, REF•11
Pistons -1•12, 1•18, 1•22, 1•26, 1•30,
13•25, 13•26, 13•30, 13•35, 13•47,
13•48, 13•53
Plastic components - 13•111
Points -4•2, 4•3
Poisonous or irritant substances -0•5
Power module - 13•90
Pre-ignition -1•36, 13•84, REF•11
Pressure regulating valve -8•6, 13•102
Pressure sensor - 13•86
R
Radiator -2•3, 12•3, 13•57, 13•113
Radio -9•10, 13•110
Rear lamp cluster -9•7
Regulator (voltage) -9•4
Regulator (window) - 12•7
Relays -9•5, 13•71, 13•105
Repair procedures - REF•8
Respraying - 12•3
Rocker cover - 13•19
Rockers -1•19
Roof rack - 12•11
Routine maintenance -0•10, 13•18
Rust holes in bodywork - 12•2
REF•18Index